Electronically Bypassing The Tundra’s Air Injection System (Hypothetically Speaking)
Jason Lancaster | Oct 13, 2010 | Comments 104
UPDATE: We have recently become aware of a module that “fixes” this issue. See https://tundraheadquarters.com/2012/10/24/air-injection-system-bypass-module for more details.
If you own a second generation Tundra, something you should be aware of is an apparent design flaw in the Tundra’s air injection system. While the likelihood of having this problem is probably pretty low (most of the dealers we talk to report this as a fairly rare problem), you never know if it could strike your Tundra.
Some trucks are covered under warranty (see the link above for more details), but if your truck has this problem and it’s not covered, you don’t have a lot of options. You can either rebuild the pumps and/or remove and clean the valves yourself, or you can pay your dealer a few thousand bucks to put in new parts…or maybe, hypothetically speaking, you might be to bypass the issue altogether…
The Tundra’s Air Injection System Problems Explained
The trouble with adding new parts is that we’re really not sure how this problem is occurring. We know that the cause is water corroding the valves and/or damaging the air pumps, but how does the water get into the system in the first place? The air injection pump pulls air from the same location as the factory air box…if water is getting in that way, it would be a surprise.
The better explanation (suggested by a smart TundraHQ reader who’s name I can’t find right now) is that humid air is causing condensation inside the air injection system, and that the condensation is collecting in the pump. Over time, enough water can collect to short out the system. If this is truly the cause, adding new parts isn’t a long term solution. While it may be that Toyota has already figured this problem out and – as usual – decided not to tell anyone, we haven’t heard that info.
Some people reading this might be wondering why Tundra owners don’t just ignore the check engine light for this particular problem. The answer is that, because this is federally mandated emissions equipment, it sets a hard fault in the ECU if there’s a problem…and a hard fault makes the truck practically un-driveable.
So, ignoring the problem is impossible and buying new parts might not be a solution. What if someone came up with an electronic bypass instead? The only downside – aside from breaking the law, of course – is that the truck might spit out a little bit more pollution on startup.
Fooling the Engine Computer is Possible (Hypothetically Speaking)
First, a little background on the air injection system and it’s function:
Air injection is used to improve cold-start emissions, a federally-mandated emissions requirement. By injecting fresh air into the exhaust stream, the catalytic converters will heat up more quickly and therefore become more effective at scrubbing exhuast gases. Once the catalytics are warmed up, the air injection system is no longer needed.
As you can see, there’s no legitimate purpose for the air injection system beyond reducing cold start emissions. It serves no other function.
If you’re an EPA employee and you’re reading this, please understand that what I’m about to suggest is merely for discussion purposes. I would never advocate purposefully deactivating federally required emissions equipment…cause’ that would be illegal. However, if someone *wanted* to break the law, they could use a readily-available piece of after market equipment to do so.
…drum roll please…
If you have a Unichip custom tuner package, you could modify a Unichip module (above) to block the air injection system’s electronic signals…hypothetically speaking
Unichip offers a “tuner kit” that can be used program a Unichip module to modify any sensor input…including the sensor that tells your truck if the air injection system is working properly or not. If someone had a computer, a Unichip module, and a mind to buy a tuner kit, they would have all the tools needed to find and modify that sensor signal using the Unichip.
- Unichip’s performance engine module (about $600) has the ability to modify any signal sent to the Tundra’s ECU, but this ability is not available directly from Unichip. In order to get your truck’s chip to do this particular function you need to buy a…
- Unichip custom tuner kit (also about $600) which can be used to reprogram the module mentioned above so that it can ignore/modify the sensor signal
- Interestingly, a lot of dyno shops and engine tuning shops already have a Unichip custom tuner kit, and they might be amenable for making this type of modification for a small, off-the-books fee.
I have no knowledge of this ever being tried, and I would never suggest doing it, but I do know that Unichip’s system is capable of fooling this sensor input. It’s quote “well within the Unichip’s capabilities” to fool the engine into thinking the air injection system is working when it may actually be broken…hypothetically speaking, of course.
Search terms people used to find this page:
- https://tundraheadquarters com/electronically-bypassing-tundra-air-injection-system/
Filed Under: Maintenance Tips
Sucky thing about the induction pump issue but rather than spend all that money in an attempt to bypass and possibly cause future problems with the ecu, I would open the fender well and make some sort of containment for the 2 pumps keeping it clear of dust, dirt, and moisture.
Lets see, $15 worth od Holmzz Depot parts and a couple hours labor, or $1200 or more for a unichip bypass….
Just my 2 cents.
[…] […]
AIP Solution: Disconnect both air pumps. You will get a CEL ( Codes P0418,P0419)but no limp mode and no affect on performance. AIP system will be shut down preventing valves from opening and failing in the long term, which is the cause of limp mode. There are two pump connectors, one behind the coolant reservoir on the front of the engine and one below the air box along the wheel well. Both are large gray connectors. Disconnect them, tape them up, zip tie them to keep them from getting into anything hot or moving and your done.
I read your report on tundra headquarters, i also left a post about the connections you mentioned but can,t seem to locate them on a 05 tundra, any help from you or anyone would be very helpfull. Thanks
What color are the wires and how many wires are the to each connector
What color are the wires in the connectors and how many wires are in each connector
I’ve tried unplugging pumps and I still get the lights from VSC off and traction control ( I Guess) and check engine witch is no big deal , but it still RPM’s up and truck won’t run faster 70 mph and give it gas nothing. rpm goes up but speed takes awhile. help please
Could you email me pics of what you did remoil2001@gmail.com
I’ve got a 2009 Tundra with this problem. It’s going to be repaired on warranty but Toyota says the parts are back-ordered indefinitely. I unplugged the wire connectors to the 2 pumps & have driven it successfully about 1500 miles now. The Check Engine light is on but the truck runs fine. After unplugging the pumps I disconnected the battery for a short time to clear the hard code. Both pumps are in the right front fender & each has a fairly heavy 2-wire (black & red) cable to it. The truck side wires are blue & black to one plug & white & black to the other one. Good luck.
Will ck engine light stay on
Yes, the Check Engine light stays on. Another new development for me is that after I drove 5000 miles like this, the truck went back into Limp Mode & now there seems to be no way to get it to drive normally until it’s fixed. (Parts are STILL back-ordered.) I was sure hoping this would be a permanent solution once Toyota won’t warranty it any more, but I guess not.
Interesting article, Jason. Its even better now that Toyota increased the warranty on the AIP to 84 months, but I guess if money was a factor this remedy could be possible. Honestly, I think trying to further reduce emissions for approx. 5-10 total hours of the vehicle life is retarded anyway. Then again, if it made sense the regulation wouldn’t come from the government.
The easy way I found to stop this moisture from getting in is by putting my CM in the garage where it stays 50-80 degrees. The other is by putting a clamps on the hose coming from and to the pumps. Good post Bill in how to by-pass the AIP.
Dez – Still haven’t seen anything that proves outside contamination is the issue. Someone suggested that normal condensation inside the air line was to blame…seems like a more plausible explanation. Therefore, I’m not sure you’ve got a solution (but I just don’t know). As you say, it’s a good, inexpensive piece of insurance, so it’s definitely prudent.
Bill3508 – Awesome suggestion! Wish I would have asked you before doing the research on this article!!
Brian J – Thanks, and agreed. It’s a silly regulation.
Mickey – Bill’s tip is awesome to be sure. Makes me feel dumb!
[…] dyno shop that has Unichip's "Custom Tuner Kit" and simply bypassing the AIP signal. Go Electronically Bypassing The Tundra’s Air Injection System (Hypothetically Speaking) | Tundra …. __________________ 2002 Tundra V8 SR5 2WD AC | 1C7-Thunder Gray Metallic | Step Bars | Kobalt […]
aip problems solved by disconnecting power to both air injection pumps and the truck is back to full power no more limp mode.
Where are the plugs located?
Where do I disconnect the pumps on my tundra
thanks to bill, this saved a lot of money and stress.
Bill’s suggestion is tremendous – just added it to the other post about this issue. https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/04/26/tundra-sequoia-air-injection-induction-pump/
Does Bill’s suggestion work for the same problem on the Sequoia as well?
Ford – Probably – as I understand it, there aren’t a lot of mechanical differences between the Sequoia and the Tundra.
Jason(Admin)or anyone else- Do you happen to know if unplugging the pumps (and probably the battery too to reset the ecu), will take the truck out of limp mode, until it’s fixed? My parts are on order, and Toyota agreed to pay half (as I’m way out of warranty on my 08′ now). In the meantime..my valves are supposedly stuck open, which according to the Toyota mechanic, is why my truck is in limp mode. But I’m curious to know if they are really stuck open, or if the pumps failing is making the truck’s computer “think” they are failing…and putting it in limp mode? Thoughts?
Jason G – That’s what I’ve been told by others. If you unplug the pumps, you’ll get a check engine code but not a hard fault.
To be honest, I wouldn’t think it would make any difference, but it could be that Toyota’s computer program doesn’t bother to even check the valve if the pumps are broken. That would explain why this trick would work.
disconecting your battery will reset your ecu , but it is not a permanent fix. on average you will get two to three key cycles before you have to repeat the process. this does not last forever at some point it will not clear, and you will have to take it to the dealer. i just had both pumps replaced and they lasted a total of 7days, good job toyota,it would be nice if they stood behind there product
Disconnect the pumps, then disconnect the battery, and it won’t go into limp mode and will allow you to drive it for a bit without it topping out at 45 mph.
dennis – 7 days?! That sucks. Did the dealership replace the parts? Should be warrantied in such a short period of time…
yah im fighting with them right now,im going to go clear the code and disconect the pumps and see if that works. its to bad because i love the truck, 105000km all off road mud , ice snow, etc.. and all ive changed is the rear pads. if they dont fix this pump bullshit ill never buy another toyota
Warranty should be for 150,000 miles on this pump!
Well here’s the info on the recall that they’re not calling a recall but a “customer service” on a design flaw. https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2011/11/17/toyota-warranties-air-injection-pump/
Hope it helps you.
I followed bob’s advice and unplugged the big gray electrical connect by the reserve tank, but could not find another connect that would help. The check engine light is on and my power is back so for so good 50 miles latter. I will re- post more information after I drive more miles Thanks Bob !
I have the problem with the valves stuck open, I unplugged both pumps, but still get the lights and limp mode on cold startup. When I clear the codes, it runs fine until I crank it cold again…Do I have to replace the valves? Can the valves be manually shut and bolted back on to stop this issue? I don’t have 2 grand to fix the thing like my dealer said…need options.
patrick – There’s no way to bypass the valve problem. However, I do know of a few Tundra owners who pulled the valves, cleaned and lubed them, and then replaced them with no problem.
Hi again just a word of caution I unpluged the pumps and disconnected the battery codes went away but they came back and here we go again 30mph, code says valves stuck open so disconnecting pumps will not cure problem,,anything else I can try
To the community:
About to take my ’07 Tundra into the desert next week ~100 mi. from nearest help. I’ve already gone into limp mode once before — immediately after a visit to Grease Monkey. They were able to reset it somehow.
A couple of questions:
1. Does anyone know if I do go into limp mode, can I then follow BIll3508’s disconnect procedure to reset out of limp mode? Or should I prophylactically disconnect now?
2. Should I buy the tool that Grease Monkey used — I assume an OBD II ?
3. If you do recommend buying one of those tools, which one?
Thanks in advance!
Ronald – Thanks for posting.
John – In order: 1) I don’t know. Pretty sure you’ll have to clear the code to get out of limp mode. 2) It’s a good tool to have anyways. Some people even make a tool for your cell phone. 3) I like the Equus. https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2009/01/14/equus-scanner-and-code-reader-equus-3100/
Jason (admin) — thanks for the reply.
Just to be clear: I’ll be able to clear the limp mode with the Equus 3100?
Also, I found the gray connector behind the coolant reservoir. Where is the one “below the air box along the wheel well”? Driver’s side or passenger’s side? Front wheel well or rear?
Thanks again,
John S
John – I *think* so, but to be honest I’m not 100% certain. It could be that only your Toyota dealer can clear that code…I’ll try and find out.
O.k., thanks.
What about the location of the other gray connector?
I posted March 14 about disconnecting the grey connect thanking Bob … mistake it was Bill.I have now driven about 1,200 miles since then and only once at about 1000 miles after a hard break and acceleration the limp mode came back on.I limped home and disconnected the battery cable, re-connected and about now 200 miles latter every thing seems ok with the check engine light on and full power.I would like other drivers that have tried this to post if they have same results ! Mic in Minnesota
I would question how well this aip system works, as I’ve always been able to smell heavy exaust up to 1 minute after startups.
After several “discussions” with Toyota customer service AND the repeated mention of the blog sights, they agreed to pay for the pump and valves for my 2008 CrewMax. Dealers original estimate was almost $2000. My out of pocket will end up to be $350. Thank God for a great dealer who went to bat for help.
Mike – Awesome!
I have been dealing with my local dealer trying to get some assistance from them. The problem is that I did not buy the truck from them. They told me to go back to the dealer I bought the truck from. Are you kidding my?!?!?!?! I bought the truck in Melborne FL a 14 hour drive from my home. The reason was that my local dealer did not have any used tundra’s at the time. I called the dealer in Fl and they said they would look into it. 2 days later not a word. Toyota customer service needs to step up. To all those who got Toyota to help, what did you say and whom did you talk to? Also i want to try to fix this myself. If someone could give me a detailed step by step how to of taking the valves off, cleaning them and putting them back on that would be great.
Thanks
Adam
How to by pass AIP DIY
http://www.tundrasolutions.com.....de-1.1.pdf
Adam – A lot of dealers will tell you to go to the place you bought it, especially if you live in a small town. Many dealers want to penalize people who don’t buy locally, and for what it’s worth I agree with you: It’s a bad practice as far as the entire brand is concerned.
As for what to do, you’ve got a local dealer that doesn’t care and a dealer 14 hours away that also doesn’t care…not sure what you can do aside from following the process outlined here: https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2007/04/30/toyota-customer-service-tips-for-getting-your-problem-solved/
From my earlier post, Toyota did offer to pay for the parts and they followed thru. I had good luck that my dealer had 1 set in stock (another owner traded his in on a new truck), otherwise I would have had to wait 4-6 weeks as they are on backorder. The dealer that I use for service is not the one I bought the truck from, but it pays to be a little loyal.
Limp mode sucks…and could get you killed!
Man, everyone’s input has been a huge help in helping me figure out the problems with my truck. I was a bit disappointed in my dealer – especially since we bought 33 trucks from them in 07 – after they basically laughed at me for suggesting they cover some of the repair costs. In any case, they stated best case scenario, parts will arrive from Japan 6/16 and can proceed with repairs then. In the meantime, I continue to have to reset the ECU once every day or two and would like to give disconnecting the pumps a shot. Does anyone have pictures of the two connectors? I’d hate to pull the wrong ones and have more issues to diagnose.
I have a 2007 Tundra with the 4.7, all the warnging lights started coming on and its now in limp mode. I took it to the dealer and they want to replace the AIP system at a cost of $3444.00 and 2 to 3 months wait on parts. I read bills comment above and have been trying to research where to find the plugs to disable the AIP, I found the one on the front of the motor very easily, but I cannot find the other, I even removed the air box and still couldnt find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! I have my wifes truck torn apart and she’s not happy!
Jeff the other pump is under the air intake manifold, took me a bit to figure it out.
That’s great for all us Tundra owners how Toyota restricts the OEM market and they don’t allow OEM manufacturers to sell replacement parts like the Air Pump. You can buy a remanufactured Air Pump for Corolla but not for Tundra. I will think twice before buying another Tundra.
Here is a letter I just sent off today to the Toyota Customer Experience Centre in Torrance CA, which I also copied to Chairman Fujio Choy in Tokyo City JAPAN:
Toyota Customer Experience Centre
Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
19001 South Western Ave.
Dept. WC11
Torrance, CA 90501
SUBJECT: TUNDRA AIR INJECTION PUMP VIN xxx
Dear Sir/Madam:
I purchased my third Toyota 4X4, a Tundra Double Cab in July 2007. Although the vehicle has only 30,330 miles and I’ve never off-roaded or abused the truck in any manner, its repair record is wretched. Refer below to the history regarding the three air injection pumps/switching valves I have been forced to replace under warranty at considerable hassle and inconvenience, to say nothing about waiting weeks for parts:
DATE, CODE, MILEAGE, ISSUE
2/12/09, P419 10,500, AIP Bank 2 Replaced
2/5/10, P419; P456 17,991 AIP Replaced
6/9/11 P456; P2442 28,921 AIP Replaced
8/25/11 P2443 30,341 Two Switching Valves Replaced
There is something seriously wrong with the design or application of the air injection pumps and valves; and, further the replacement parts Toyota provides are no better than the originals.
This unresolved issue presents a grave safety concern for me and my family.
When is Toyota going to engineer a fix & issue a RECALL; or extend the AIP warranty to 10 yr/100,000 miles?
Attached are copies of service documents referenced in this letter.
Thanks for your consideration in this matter.
Sincerely,
tmk
cc: Fujio Cho, Chairman & Representative Director, Toyota c/o attachments
UPDATE: TOYOTA PLANS TO FIX THE AIP PROBLEM
Just recd a call from Toyota Hdqtrs Office of President relevant to letter that i copied to the CEO in Japan, which Japan forwarded to Torrance CA for response. It appears—Toyota is listening to its customers and within 30-90 days will issue guidance/recall? of some sort. The gentleman that called me was not able to divulge everything but i do believe they plan to do right on this problem. He said that Toyota was mindful of all the concerns it had heard from its customers about the AIP parts that fail.
Last week a Customer Experience Centre guy called me up to say they had opened a case file regarding my matter.
Will keep you all informed but we must persist until a fix is in.
TMK
TMK…Please let us know as soon as you hear something. I am waiting to do the repair. I got Toyota to agree to $1500 of $2000, but I am not happy with that. I have 12 mos. to cash in my offer. Just so everyone knows, I too had dealers pissin and moaning about “you didn’t buy it here” blah blah. The local dealer didn’t understand that he would still get $2000 banked through his service department. The owner himself told me he wasn’t interested in my business because I had only had the truck serviced there, I didn’t buy it there. I got the $1500 offer after LOTS of calls to the Toyota national phone line and speaking to a supervisor. I am really wanting to get rid of my truck. I have decided to sell it for less than trade value if I cannot get it repaired by Toyota. I will NEVER buy another Toyota, Lexus, or anything made by them…even a forklift.
This was on Tundra Solutions from a Tundra owner in Canada. Hopefully the same thing is coming our way if it already hasn’t.
“Dealership indicated to me that they received notification that Toyota will now warranty the air induction pump for 10 years or 240,000 kms in Canada.”
Oops that was me^^^
HALLELUYAH, TOYOTA COMES THRU:
Warranty Policy Bulletin POL11-05 dated 10/19/11 extends warranty to 10 yrs/150K from the vehicle’s date-of-first-use, whichever occurs first.
My faith in Toyota is restored.
TMK
what I don’t understand is for us that have way more then 150,000 miles,(196,000) sounds like they are just prolonging the hurt process!! if they are helping others then they should help all !! I am Toyota to the hilt, but this is just poor, poor service management.
Where did you read or see the POL11-05 warranty policy bulletin? I cannot find that information through a search engine.
Thanks
I see that to have access to the TSB, you must pay big bucks and join TIS. Can you upload a PDF of the POL11-05 bulletin?
Thanks
My dealer is checking with U.S. Toyota to see if they will match the Canadian program. No response yet. I will not hiold my breath. Just one more slap in the face of customers. Some customers must mean more than others to Toyota. If anyone has the CEO’s address in Japan handy, I would like it posted here. One guy on these forums did get some action by mailing a letter to the CEO.
All affected customers should. Additionally, you can contact Ray LaHood’s office, the Secretary of Transportation.
NAT – See this post: https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2011/11/17/toyota-warranties-air-injection-pump/
I can’t publish the actual TSBs here…been told not to. However, you can rest assured that all the info in the article above is 100% accurate.
Britt – It would be incredibly stupid of Toyota to offer U.S. consumers a special program and not also offer that to Canadian consumers. I can’t believe there’s even a question. If for some reason Canadians don’t get the benefit, tell me. I’ll raise holy hell here on the site.
Jason,
The 10 years, 250,000km warranty has been extended to Canadian Tundra owners, not U.S. owners. My dealer has confrmed that, so yes, it is incredibly stupid of Toyota. I guess they fear the Canadian government more that the US or something. All I know is I live in the US and don’t deserve the same consideration as other Toyota customers.
Raise holy hell. I really don’t think Toyota cares. I said it before, I will never own anything Toyota again. I certainly tell everyone that asks how I like my truck ( and there are lots) that Toyota will not stand by the customer on a problem and I won’t buy another one.
Britt – If Canadian Tundra owners are getting 250km, then US owners are OK. As of mid-November, US owners have a 10 year, 150k mile warranty on the air injection system. I think we’re good. 🙂
Please post any document number so I can give it to my dealer. My apologies if you previously posted.
Britt, sorry but you incorrect. I got my extended warranty in the mail over a month ago. 10 year, 150k just like yours.
I live in Southern California.
Jason, would you be able to email me the TSB?
My dealership seems to have no clue what I am talking about.
I would love to have something concrete to show them.
If you can, please send it to just.for.cl@live.com
Thanks,
Nat
My dealer too is unaware of any new coverage program. Please share any document reference with the board so we can advise dealers of Toyota’s plans. It’s a shame customers have to inform dealers of vehicle specific programs.
Check it out Britt.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com.....om-toyota/
I bought an 07 Toyota Tundra 6 month’s ago! Worse choice i have ever made! Never again! Toyota needs to make it right for everyone who bought these “Toy” truck’s. I have 2 baby’s with Asthma, if one of them has an attack and I had to rush them to the ER, what I’m supposed to drive the back roads at 40 FN miles an hour not to mention how much longer the distance is. I wonder if anyone has contacted a Lawyer on this issue?? Toyota told me to drive it all the way across town (which has no back roads) I would have to risk my life on the Highway! And I would have to pay the fee to run the test to see if it’s the AIP, then cross my finger’s it is covered and the warranty is not void or I will have to pay for everything! All they have to do is lie! It’s not like we can trust them! OMG! This is really a headache! I will NEVER buy Toyota again! When I do pay this CRAP off I am going to buy ” American” made!
Chill Jen, Toyota recently issued a 10 year 150,000 mile extended warranty on the AIP’s.
Besides, chances are you may never have an issue with this.
…and the Tundra is more American made than any of the big 3 manufacturers.
Dez………..It is already an issue, I have been driving at 40 on the back roads for a week and a half already! I can’t afford to tow it. My Husband is going to try to disconnect it tomorrow! I have already made up my mind, I want something dependable and that is NOT a Toyota! I’m gonna stick to my Chevy! I will be trading this truck in ASAP!!!
So I was going to get on here and Apologize because I took my 07 Tundra to Toyota and they fixed it! Yay Right?? Well that was yesterday, I drove it home then to work this morning and when I got off guess what! Yup you guessed it! Limp mode AGAIN! Can’t go over 40! I call Toyota for them to tell me they can’t do anything until Monday! Wow it’s New Year’s Eve so I am stuck at home! Well Happy New Year Toyota!
Where do you live Jen?
Some so called “certified” mechanics don’t know squat!
so is there a USA Warranty bulletin thats 10 yes 150K..my dealer yesterday said No..yesterday was 1/3/12
I don’t get that David. If this is a Toyota dealer you’re talking about then they are very much out of touch with whats going on at corporate.
This has been a US thing for over 2 months.
I have a 2005 Tundra with 140,000 miles, i have a 418 and a 2445 code. Is there any help with us Toyota owners with this problem on the older Tundras?
Larry – I don’t think so.
I know the system is a little different then on the 2007 and newer, but is there any way to by pass this system? I unpluged the air injection control driver, but went back in limp mode within a few days?
Hi guys, I have had error code 2447 for three days. Hit me on a weekend. Just about cost me & my 3 young girls our lives on the freeway. Could not get the truck above 30mph in a 65 mph zone. Drove on the shoulder until I could get to an auto parts store. Had them reset using the tuner. Happened again on cold start. I disconnected the battery to reset the ECU. I followed Bills advice. No problems yet. I will call Toyota tomorrow.
Erv
P.S. Just looked back at my warranty enhancement notice. It covers the pumps & valves. Apparently enough people complained about it.
Erv
[…] Re: Electric motor noise and engine check light Originally Posted by Bassinelwood Just dropped it off….sounding like up to $2500.00 for the repairs…..SUCKS!!!!!!!!! Was told that it was very rare on my year model….just my luck right now Thanks for yalls help Elwood Ouch! What about doing this? […]
Does this warranty cover the Sequoia? Mine was just diagnosed with this issue.
Allyson – Yes.
The air injection system is utilized to improve cold-start emissions, and is a federally mandated emissions requirement. The systems in question have been affected by moisture in the pumps and valves, resulting in the illumination of the check engine light. While the injection system has no impact on the core function of the engine, the problem has reportedly cost some consumers as much as $4,000 to fix. In an ongoing effort to ensure customer satisfaction, Toyota has recently introduced a Customer Support Program to extend the warranty coverage on air injection pumps and air switching valves.
This program will extend the warranty on air induction pump assemblies and air injection switching valves for the condition described to 10 years from the date of first use or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. These vehicles were previously covered for 5 years or 60,000 miles. When the condition is verified, the dealer will replace the air injection pumps and air switching valves in the affected vehicles. Owners of Tundra and Sequoia models covered by this extended warranty will receive an Owner Letter via first class mail with details about the Customer Service Program. There are approximately 477,000 Tundra (2007 to 2010 Model Year) and 57,000 Sequoia (2008 to 2010 Model Year) vehicles covered by this Customer Service Program. Please note that damage incurred by accidents, abuse, vandalism, or similar events are not covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty or the Warranty Extension.
An owner who has already paid for the repair of this specific condition affecting air injection systems should refer to the owner letter upon receipt for reimbursement consideration instructions. Not every model produced in this time period will display air injection system malfunctions. All vehicles comply with Toyota’s rigorous durability and quality standards. The condition described impacts only a small number of air injection pumps and air switching valves. This warranty extension reflects Toyota’s desire to assure their customers that Toyota stands behind its products. If you experience a Malfunction Indicator Light (check engine light) “ON” condition, contact any Toyota dealer and make arrangements for diagnosis and repair.
Owners with questions or concerns should contact the Toyota Customer Experience Center at 1-888-270-9371 Monday through Friday, 5:00 am to 6:00 pm, or Saturday 7:00 am through 4:00 pm Pacific Time.
I own a 2005 Toyotat Sequoia and it has the same problem with the air induction pump and valves reported from the dealership. They said that it would cost about $3,200 dollars to fix. I called 1-800 331-4331 to report the problem. If you have a 2005 Sequoia, please call and report this so that Toyota will either recall or put it to place a warranty extension of 10 years from date of original purchase or 150,000 miles like they did on the 2008- 2010 models. This is a defect and Toyota needs to step up to the plate and do the right thing. I urge everyone to call if you have a problem. They only will listen if they receive enough complaints.
I just got off the phone with Toyota regarding my 05 Sequoia and the very same issue. They said there was nothing they could do. I am planning on writing corporate about the matter. I am convinced that they are fully aware of the matter and that it is obviously a very common problem. The “limp mode” nearly caused a head-on collision for my wife with four of our children in the vehicle. She tried to pass and lost power unexpectedly. They need to address the issue with all models and not just certain recent models.
We are also having the same issue with our 2005 Tundra. We are getting a code P2440. I called the 1-800-331-4331 Toyota number and was told there are not any other issues filed with them for the 2005 models. i knew of course this is not true. My vehicle only has a little over 50,000 miles on it. Same thing that is happening to newer models. Was asked by person taking my claim if i would consider purchasing a new vehicle !!!!! Are you kidding me !!! Stand by your product Toyota. I will also be filling out a form to the EPA. Not going to take this . Paid alot of money for that vehicle. Admit it Toyota you all messed up.
I also have a 2005 DC Tundra with only 45,000 miles and just recently have AIP problems. I have P2440 and P1441 error codes. I have never had any problems before this and I love my Tundra. But with this problem and going into limp mode causes a very serious driving hazard. With the cost of repair being so high for what seems to be a Toyota manufacturer flaw. I’m considering trading in the Tundra for something other than Toyota!!! Sad to find out that Toyota isn’t such a great company after all by not backing up their own product. Looking for resolutions…
Ken,
We just wrote a new post about a cheap solution, check it out https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2012/10/24/air-injection-system-bypass-module/. It should work for you and save you some dough.
-Tim
Sorry Tim I actually did not see a part listed for only 75.00 to try and fix my 2005 Tundra. I did see parts for $250.00
I have a 2012 Tundra 5.7L and my CEL came on toofor P0418 Secondary AIP. It only has 11,000kn on it. I dropped it off 2 days ago and it’s just been sitting at the local dealer while they figure out how to fix it…. Maybe I should send them this thread…. I drive by and they try and update me and say they’ve been working on it, but little do they know I work accross the street and have sadly watch it sit for the last 2 days.. Miss my Tundra.
RN,
That stinks. Hopefully it gets fixed soon.
-Tim
Today they gave me a Camry Hybrid as a loaner so it’ll be nicer than bussing to work. Should have an answer for me today by 5pm.
RN,
That’s nice of them.
-Tim
Since I posted he information above October 10, 2012, I have taken my ’08 Tundra into the shop and they replaced pumps and valves at absolutely no cost to me. My truck has 125,000 miles on it.
Keith,
Nice!!
-Tim
I bought a new 05 tundra. First 5 years were good. Now i have the same problem codes as everyone on this forum. My first question if anyone can tell me is where are the pumps located, l can,t seem to find anyone that can tell me or will help me locate them. I would like to try to clean and or replace if nessary. I’ getting tried of disconnecting the battery to get it out of limp mode. I like bill’s suggestion of unplugging the pumps but can’t locate the connections, any suggestions would be most helpfull
Someone please help me i suffer from limp mode illness, and can’t seem to find a cure.
What no one is covering much here is that toyota will replace the pumps or valves ONCE. Mine have gone out again after just 15,000 miles, and they tell me the dealer can only replace it one time. I’m sure others are experiencing this also , just judging from the amount of posts. My truck is an 07 with the 5.7 and has just went over 90,000 miles. I’ve been given 2 different case files , and twice been told they WOULD COVER IT. BUT, the dealership says no they won’t. This is a total BS situation . My truck is in permanent limp mode, even after disconnecting battery every time I start it. I’ve called California Headquarters for the last time, told them if they didn’t fix it within the week , I’m done with them. I have now contacted the Better business bureau, and have an attorney working on the case. I will never , ever , buy another Toyota again and plan on telling everyone I know. Did I mention this is the third Toyota truck I’ve owned in a row? TOYOTA DOESNT CARE, AND WILL NOT STAND BEHIND THEIR PRODUCT !!!
Hi Mike. Why not unplug the air pumps as detailed in the thread above? My 2009 Tundra went to 118,000 miles before any issues. I felt much the same as you do as long as my truck was in limp mode & Toyota said parts back-ordered indefinitely. Now I’m cheerfully driving it like normal except the “Check Engine” light is on. If it happens again & Toyota refuses to pay for repairing it anymore I’ll drive it permanently with the pumps unplugged & “Check Engine” light on.
Did that Andy, worked for about 800 miles and now it’s back to where I started, limping around for the last 4 months. Anyone else out there maybe considering a class action lawsuit ???
I own a 2005 Tundra. I have the same issue and I am so upset that this is going on. My husband and I have always purchased Toyota’s and I am appalled they will not stand behind there product. My husband would always clean out a moisture build up that accumulated. My husband just passed away unexpectedly and now I have no idea how or where this moisture collects.So now I deal with the loss of my husband and have to drive a vehicle around with a constant check engine light. Can some one tell me if they know where I can find that part I am supposed to clean out the moisture. Thank you.