All Known 2008 Toyota Tundra Problems
Tim Esterdahl | May 25, 2012 | Comments 87
Here is a hopefully helpful list of all the known 2008 Toyota Tundra Problems. We are still big fans of the truck, we just thought a reference guide would be handy.
The 2008 Toyota Tundra sure is one nice truck. Yet, like any vehicle, it has had a few problems come up.
Location of Oil Filter
Many people have stated that the location of the oil filter is “ridiculously stupid.” It is under the skid plate. So, yes you have to remove the skid plate to replace the oil filter. It isn’t terribly difficult to do, but it is one more step that seems needless.
The notorious skid plate that you have to remove in order to change the oil filter. Thanks to TundraSolutions.com member MHadden for the DIY with photos.
Here is a good do-it-yourself guide on how to do it.
Air Injection Pump Problems
Many 2007-2010 Toyota Tundra owners have reported problems with either air injection pumps seizing or air injection valves in the intake manifold rusting so that they can’t open or close any longer. While Toyota has come out with a special customer service program to warranty this problem, the warranty expires after 150k miles. Learn more about Tundra air injection problems here.
Radio
While we had hoped that Toyota would address the odd issues arising from the stock radio, it didn’t get addressed. Dealers are still replacing them as they come in. Got an odd radio issue like turning on/off. Take it to a dealer.
Too-thin Tailgate Metal
Many Tundra owners report that their tailgates have bent or broken during loading. We know that Toyota agreed to fix or replace some tailgates, and we have a copy of a Toyota internal memo that acknowledges the issue…and also claims that the issue was fixed in 2007. However, some 2008 Tundra owners still report problems.
Trouble Heating Up Quickly
This was truly a strange one. It seems that Toyota decided that the truck was simply taking too long to heat up when it was cold outside. So, they issued a TSB to “correct” the problem. The fix is a simple software upgrade.
Bed Bounce
Unfortunately, the bed bounce issue didn’t go away in 2008. There are a host of factors and opinions on why it happens. It is a very odd problem that occurs when driving over concrete expansion joints on highways between 55-60 mph and cause a nasty vibration. Interestingly, a reader of this site can up with a very plausible explanation to why it is occurring and that the shocks are to blame.
Paint Issues
Some Toyota Tundra trucks owners feel there is a paint issue with the truck. Specifically, the problem is defined as bubbles, orange peel, contaminants in the paint, discolorations or poor color matches, and plastic painted parts not matching the rest of the vehicle. There has been a petition circulated by upset owners to fix this issue. We haven’t seen anything widespread that would indicate the size of this issue. Hopefully, this was just a weird occurrence.
Chrome Rust Issues on Lug Nuts, Wheels, and Bumpers
Rust can form on chrome and lug nuts. Get it replaced as soon as you see it.
According to some 2007 and 2008 Tundra owners, small rust spots form on chrome bumpers and lug nuts. While rusting is quite common in certain areas of the U.S., it’s relatively rare to see it on such a new vehicle. Toyota dealerships are prepared to remedy the issue. Dealers are allowed to replace parts showing rust on an individual basis at no cost to the consumer.
Rumble Strip Problem
Some 2008 Toyota Tundra owners have had an odd issue that has been dubbed the “rumble strip” problem. According to a post on PickupTrucks.com, this is when “the transmission randomly rough-shifts for several seconds, making the truck feel like it’s riding on a roadside rumble strip. Hence, the problem has been given the informal name ‘rumble strip’ transmission issue.” The issue is related to a torque converter and dealerships have been replacing the part. If you have this issue, contact your dealer.
Any problems you’ve had that aren’t mentioned here? Tell us about them!
Search terms people used to find this page:
- https://tundraheadquarters com/all-known-2008-toyota-tundra-problems/
- 2008 toyota tundra problems
Filed Under: Tundra News • TundraHeadquarters.com
I would say that the Air Induction system problems are certainly worth mentioning here. The warranty has been extended to 10yr/150k but the problem isn’t solved.
There have also been a significant number of water pump seal failures. The consensus is that the Toyota pink anti-freeze is causing the seals to fail.
mendonsy – OOPS! Tim asked me to look this post over and I missed that one. My bad. It has been added.
I aggree with the above problems as I just changed my water pump. I am trying Amsoil anitfreeze to see if the pump lasts longer. I also added sound dampening material to the entire inside of the cab and doors. Also the tailgate is a weak point so I added 3/8″ plywood to it.
yah, missed water pump premature failure, too thin tailgate sheet metal, serpentine belt cracks in ribs under 36K, and poor seat/track noisy and sloppy before 36K.
Have had the chroming rusting all over, poor paint or prep work from mfg. on tailgate and body panels, power seats needing replacing, tailgate sheet metal denting way too easily, and serpentine belts cracking way too early on. I think in 2009 the rusted chrome and serpentine belts were remedied but not the rest as i can testify as an example.
mk – I’ve added your notes about tailgates. Are the other issues you’re referencing specific to your truck or are these issues being talked about on forums that I haven’t heard about?
I own a 2008 SR5 4×4 double cab. Last January at 60K water pump had to be replaced. A several hundred dollar fix. two weeks ago at 65K alternator and battery died simultaneously while in motion and left me stranded. Two days, a tow, new batt/alternator and $1,100 later an engine rattle developed and check engine light came on. GUESS WHAT? Catalytic converter on passenger side crapped out. After much hellraising the dealership loaned me a junky minivan and fixed catcon since 80K mandatory federal warranty requirement exists.
As a 13 year owner of a Japan-made 1995 T-100 dX 4×4 — by far best truck I ever bad — it saddens me to say Toyota is slipping in terms of aesthetics, building materials plastic and super thin cheap metal) substandard mechanical function. SADLY I doubt it’s any better or worse than any of the other junk out there anymore… am considering trading it for a new GMC.
How do they expect us to change the transmission fluid? There is no dipstick on the 2008 4.0 6cyl.
Sure am glad I bought a GMC in 2000, after 12 yrs the only issue I’ve had is needing a new right side power window motor and a new u joint. Aside from new tires, oil changes and a 100,000 mi service check its only needed gas. Wish it got better than 15 city and 18 hwy but you can’t have everything.
I have tundra .I tink is the best truck powerful,nice quality.and faster.
08 tundra on third water pump going in today because the coolant is low again so possibly the fourth water pump. did the air pumps, rear end, wheel bearing, coolant crossover gaskets and a heater fan not impressed to say the least shoulda kept my super duty last toyota for me
oh yeah all in under 80,000
My water pump went out too at 65,000 miles also radio turns on and off and now the alternator quit at 69,000 miles
My water pump went at 68,000 miles. Junk
I have a 2007 crewmax trd limited and haven’t had to do anything but service and at 143000 now. So thankful I guess it just hit and miss.
I have a 2007 crewmax trd limited and haven’t had to do anything but service and at 143000 now. So thankful I guess it just hit and miss. Love my truck.
08 bought in August of 08 new. No Issues !!
There was a heavy down pour today and my son noticed water leaking into the cab near the back window. I wonder if anyone else has had this problem?
Wow. I’ve had the same issue as well. Just popped up recently, but I have been unable to find where the leak is occurring.
Back window needs to be replaced. Mine did the same thing.
I had the same issue during the first month of purchasing my new truck. My new born was soaking wet because it was raining and she couldn’t tell us.
I had the same problem. It was the cargo light gasket. It was replaced and that fixed it.
Paint is crap . As well as the cloth seats .
2008 tundra 5.7 bearing wine vibration felt at 48-50 miles an hour. Can feel in floor , throttle, and steering . Also truck only gets 15.3 miles to the gallon on the highway. 90,000 miles on truck
rear bearing cost me $750 with less than 75000 miles!
I have the same symptoms. ’08 Tundra w/88k miles.
I recently had the bed of my 2008 Tundra replaced by Toyota at no charge due to rust through at the four corners on the floor of the bed. This was discovered when I took out the Dealer/Factory installed bedliner out(in since day one when purchased new)to have a spray-in bedliner installed and a new tonneau cover.
The Line-X dealer pointed the defect out to me and said he was familiar with it because a previous customer with an ’09 Tundra had the same issue that was missed and consequently two days after the liner was sprayed on it began to bubble in the four corners. The truck owner informed his dealer and Toyota replaced the entire bed at no charge as they were aware of this problem on 07-10 Tundras.
In my case, the dealer recognized the problem as rust-through from the bottom and arranged with the factory to replace the bed. New bed and paint all done with no hassle whatsoever. I’ll say this: Toyota stands behind their vehicles.
2008 SR5 Double Cab, 32,000 miles
Craig,
That’s great!
-Tim
Same problem but I have 2007 crewmax limited with 181,000 miles
I was 2 months past the 5 year warrany told me to get screwed . Also had a bad tailgate at 45,000 miles also told me to get screwed
Last toyota for me RUSTING after 5 years
That’s horrible
Sorry is not good enough
Does anybody have a 2008 toyota tundra that shimmys on take off or on inclines is there any answers to this
stock tires, had to go to d rated tires i thought the back ones would come off the rim during acceleration towing 6000 pound trailer…..they provide a way stiffer ride but i have firestone destinations with 43000 only 1 flat/ plug worth it
each tire comes with a rating. L/T, softest which comes with the truck C rating and D rating for the most heavy duty towing/ hauling, if you have 18 inch rims C rated tires are softer but are almost impossible to find thus very expensive. 18 inch D rated tires stiffen the ride but that feeling you talk about goes away. Didn’t think when I saw those 18 inch wheels but tires are so much more expensive because they don’t make as many. firestone destinations have already given me 43000 miles of trouble free driving good traction except for the worst icy conditions, still have 5000 miles tread left. Also get firestones lifetime alignment I go every 3-4 months to get tires aligned and they last alot longer
My 2008 Tundra shimmys on take off with stock and my 20″ rims and 35″ tires. Pulling heavy trailers seems to make it worse. Makes it me feel like I own a weak truck. Wish it was a smooth take off. Anyone have a fix?
I have an 08 with 5000 on it pretty sure fuel pump died today any one els have this issuse
I have a 2008 crewmax 4×4…65000 miles…when i start engine, rear bed window sometimes rolls down…also sometimes when rolling the rear bed window down it shuts off radio…the newest issue is, when i turn truck off & pull key out of ignition, the truck continues to run….
Jason Kuhn,
Sounds like you have an electrical issue somewhere. Have you gotten it checked out?
-Tim
I had toyota service dept hook it up to computer when it was shutting off radio while trying to roll back bed window down , it showed no code…
What have the service guys said about the problem?
-Tim
They said it didn’t show a code, so they didn’t see any problems.
I have only had the truck 4 weeks,
the 2008 tundra I bought has turned out to be the biggest piece of ???? that I have ever owned fuel milage is in the toilet transmission never stops shifting or gets stuck in third gear cant risk going anywhere you may have to use four wheel drive because it is almost gaurantied to get stuck and now what about resale value there is none i have not been able to sell privatley and and trade in value is unspeakable so for any of you thinking of leaving dodge or gmc I would think long and hard before you make that mistake
HaHa – I left Dodge after my 1980 Dodge RAM P O Sh** Only Dodge I ever enjoyed was 1972 Dart Swinger 340. I always told Toyota (my Dad’s favorite car) if they ever made a pick up I’d buy it. My 08 is the second and I wouldn’t go back to any other
your full of (it). Do your research on resale.
I have done my research why do you think i remarked on it i am still stuck with the piece of ____ I have had no offers even at the low price I have set.
I’ve owned full size pick ups since 1973, not just Toyota, all of them. They all have their issues, however Toyota has the best response to issues that “I have experienced”. If you’re locked into “resale” value you’re highly misinformed as to the value of a vehicle. Reliability is the most important to me, and that has been my experience with my Toyota Tundras. I could fill up this comment column with issues that I have had with other trucks, but you’re obviously a “Dodge Boy”. Grow up. Get real.
2nd post my tailgate folded in two while loading my sled engine light keeps coming on and staying on have to disconnect battery to turn it off O Ya 90$ Canadian to have it diagnosed every time something goes wrong even if its the same thig
Add the tailgate latch. Mine broke at three years and less than 35K miles. Now the water pump is leaking pink fluid at 56K miles and although it’s under warranty for two more weeks. Toyota refuses to replace it. They want to wait until I’m on the side of the road in 105 degree heat with my horses behind me in the trailer and it’s my bill and not theirs. No more Toyotas for me!
Judy,
That stinks!
-Tim
I HAVE A 2008 CREWMAX, 5.7 ENGINE. DURING STARTING WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD, IT AUTO CRANKS FOR A LONGTIME BEFORE IT STARTS. WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE PROBLEM? I HAVE 70K MILES.
Eddie,
Why don’t you have a technician look at it. Sounds like it could be a starter. Hard to say anymore, probably need a diagnostic check.
-Tim
My truck dose the same thing. Did u ever figure out the problem? 2008 crewmax 5.7 engine. I have about 120,000 miles on it.
Eddie it should be ran through the shop and scanned but it is not I repeat not the starter. If the starter rotates the engine it has done its job. Long rotation time usually means that another sensor such as the cam sensor has taken over to tell the computer where TDC is (Top Dead Center) this then determines firing sequence injection pulse with etc depending on coolant / ambient air temp throttle position etc.The only reason it would do this is when the crank sensor is not responding fast enough (Toyota isn’t the only one to do this. Anyone who has owned a Jeep Cherokee will know exactly what I’m talking about as Jeep had a stupid design where it “purposely look @ the distributor position and counted for TDC then it would start (nice battery tester for mid winter eh?)Toyota Tundra’s are not designed this way and this might be a nice little warning that something is going to fail so getting it in quick won’t hurt. This is an old posting so I’m more writing this for others maybe having this same issue today.
We purchased our second Tundra 2008 and updated to a 2009/2008. We got the 5.7 engine with automatic/6 speed manual transmission 4 x 4. About a month ago the SENSORS under the truck decided that we were on ice (it was about 50 degrees) and water apparently got up under the truck (it had been raining) and this set off the sensors that told the truck to go into 4/low and nonskid as well as other engine lights came on and the truck would not hardly go as it was in low range 4 wheel drive. This has now happened “4”times and it is always when we are on the road.
I had the same thing happen. There are two pumps involved with the issue and they are covered for 10 years, 150,000 miles. I just had mine changed by Toyota dealer at no cost.
I have a 2008 Tundra with less than 50,000 miles on it when I don’t drive it for a couple of days the anti skid ,eheck engine and another light comes on and the truck prevents you from going above say 30-40 mph it also seems to do this when it rains allot do you have a solution???
My truck is at the dealer with the same problem. It is the secondary air injection pump. The pump is covered under 10 yr-150,000 mile warranty. The problem is, my truck has been there 5 days and it still is not fixed because the dealer tells me toyota has the pumps on hold and they do not know when they will get the parts in. Do not ever deal with the toyota dealer in muskegon michigan. They’re customer service stinks. Have to be put on a waiting list for a loaner car because so many toyotas are broken down. I guess i will have to take a cab back and forth to work for a while.
I think I have the same problem but not 4 wheel drive . Truck check engine light , anti skid and some other warning lights come on and the truck wont go over 30-40 mph
Our 2006 Tundra was awesome. Our 2008 Tundra does not hold a candle to the 2006. The seats rattle and we have had it in on 2 different occasions and have been told this is Just The way the truck is! One door does not shut properly, again we were told this is due to inside pressure and this is the way it is! The other 3 doors shut properly. We had previously owned Ford and Chevrolets with captain chairs and they had seats that had turned down arm rests as part of the seat. We were told that Toyota does not build such a seat for any Toyota vehicle. THAT IS ASHAME, if they can’t keep up with Ford and Chevy they should lower their prices.
My complain is Palm Beach Toyota/Scion 601 South Military Trail, West Palm Beach Fl
I am a senior citizen , 81 years old .Last Friday (05/24/13)I went with my wife to ask about leasing a Toyota Corolla . They were so nice , every thing was all right . Then the sales person John Vega , sent us to Elkin Ruiz .We were very worry , because it was the first time we lease a car , and I asked about the insurance: “Don´t worry , it is not more that $ 150″he said , “but don’t worry about that now, I am going to give you insurance for a week and you can buy it later” I believed in his word,it was my mistake.
3 days later when I realized the insurance was around $400 a month and it is impossible for me to pay that it was to late. I called the manager Mr Brent Caldwell and he was very rude. I was calling for advice I tried to explain the situation but there was not answer just “you need a lawyer”.It is very sad that a big company , like Toyota , uses such awful sales tricks to deceived old people . Still I don’t know what to do . Still I will not be able to pay that amount of money . I know is my fault . I hope it never happen to any of you .I advice elderly people never go to that place if they trick us they are going to do that with other people too. If any body has any advice please contact me in my e mail address
Took my truck in for the before mentioned tailgate issues, though just rust on mine. Toyota did throw in about 50%. My warranty ran out a while ago too. They called back yesterday, the rear wheel bearings are shot @ 80K. They called back today and are kicking in about two thirds, so you could say they do stand behind their product very well!
RMike,
That’s great news! Thanks for sharing.
-Tim
Anybody having issues with automatic headlight shutoff delay? Mine stays on- tried to reset twice for 30 second delay but nonetheless still stays on after vehicle has been sitting for an indefinite period of time. Have to shut off headlights manually.
Has anyone had a problem with the alternator going out at 40 thousand. I put a new alternator on the truck and it lasted 5 days and the truck has quit again. Almost appears to be electrical sort causing problems with the alternator. Thanks for your help!
Mark,
Sounds like you got a bad alternator. I haven’t heard of any other people have alternator problems at all. You could have a run of bad luck, that stinks!
-Tim
Mine went out at about 40k and 60k. I do a lot of plowing and get a lot of salt spray on it. One tip, always run your skid plate. And don’t submerge your truck in mud or water off roading. Bad design putting an alternator so close to the bottom of the truck. My chevrolet has it right under the hood and out of harms way, and the elements. I did replace both myself. PITA to do. But is doable. Dealership wanted $1400!
WHY DO I HAVE A VIBRATION WHEN IN 6TH GEAR FOR A SHORT SECOND THEN QUITS BUT IT CONTINUES TO COME BACK FURTHER DOWN THE ROAD, BUT WHEN IN SHIFT MODE ON SELECTOR THERE IS NOISSUES AS LONG AS YOU MANUALLY KEEP IT OUT OF 6TH GEAR???
Todd,
That seems odd. Have you taken it to a dealer? My truck doesn’t have that issue.
-Tim
I can’t believe what I’ve been reading here in the past months. It certainly doesn’t speak to my 2008. My only issue, as previously stated, was a small amount of rust-through on the bed for which the manufacturer responded with a new bed at no charge. I am currently at about 40,000 miles. Hope my truck doesn’t start having the issues I’ve read about here, but so far, so good. I have been and continue to be well pleased with my Tundra.
Craig,
You can drive yourself crazy if you read all of these comments. Just remember, in the larger scheme of things, the comments represent a small percentage of all owners.
-Tim
Tim I couldn’t disagree with you more. I am an x certified master tech mechanic that was a tech for 30 years and also worked for Toyota in the 90’s whats going on here is simple. Toyota pushed this truck to soon before taking care of many issues and also in about 2006 they made a major change and allowed for a higher number of manufacturer defects to be allowed if you don’t believe me look it up, this was thought about in big circles which should have never been entertained! I personally have had issues with my truck simple list that like it or not will happen to all of us at one time or another because I know from experience they are all made in a production facility and have the same tolerances specs and design and known lifecycle when they are made. Throw in temperature variations and some things will happen later or sooner depending on the vulnrability of the design flaw its that simple. My truck? Warped rotors never stop warping can’t do anything because tire size to small for optional “Big brake kit” (Remember this truck was advertised to have big bad brakes remember the steel tower with the flames?? Yea me too all BS as far as I’m concerned even if I can do teh brakes at a fraction of anyone here its an issue that shouldn’t be happening especially since this was a known issue on earlier years and was a big issue on the earlier trucks and was infact supposed to be answered on the 07 and forward trucks.Had to get all 4 new rims delaminated clear coat same thing happened to drivers side wiper arm started “checking in the flat black paint” Autostart you had to be no more than 20 ft from the truck (lotta good that does eh?) Water pump @ 32k changed all the coolant not just the two gallons the idiot passed me at the dealer because that’s all his techs use (wham bam pump change out) just did the radiator a month ago and the serpentine belt was shot after one year of buying the truck. Put a Gates on it 6 years ago not a crack in it yet have 64k on it now.Driving lights turns out shake inside there “cups” in the front bumper have now caused a rust ring from vibrating through the chrome plating!!! Oh yea the radio just got “locked up” on the volume tonight that’s why I’m here seeing the latest and greatest not happy right now at all.Tailgate bent from putting a scooter in the back to go get repaired what a joke that was bent like it was plastic, sub panel inside tailgate is to low to add support higher in the door. Been around trucks cars bikes boats worked on Lamborghini’s / Porsche / Mercedes Benz / Lincoln Mercury / and basically most auto companys as a tech also in a garage and most my time was in a dealership with my later years in a general garage doing anything needed. Toyota screwed up on this truck and time will be the enemy of this design.Very sad I have pushed Toyota’s on many people over thirty years but they are changing too. Honda and Subaru the only manufacturer to NOT lose sales during the recession I can understand that also owning a Acura and many Subaru’s over the years both cars well over 225k miles.
Hello. I have a 2010 5.7L tundra crewmax 4×4 that does not like to shift out of 3rd gear when the engine is cold.(in the winter) It takes 3kms of driving and then another 1 or 2 for it to shift into 5th and 6th. Is that normal? Going through tones of fuel. Help?
I have an 07 tundra with 325000 miles I’ve never had a part changed on it and I use it like most people use a 1 ton. It is my second Toyota tundra I had an 01 I just sold to a friend it has over 400000 on it the only thing I ever put on it was catalytic converters and one O2 censer i only wish they would make a 1 ton version
I hate to say anything about my tundra, but lately if sounds like a turbo is underneath the floor board is this sound like air pump issue to you guys? I own 5.7 crewmax and last week we had a bad freeze and my front windshield cracked as I was heating up the truck???? I had radio problems as well at 40K it wouldn’t come on at all; however, during the ordering process the dealership had to pull the radio to get the serial numbers and inadvertantly plugged it back in or reset it. Well, low and behold bamb! it is working again, go figure! now I have close to 80k and no more radio issue’s. I somehow think toyota has sometiype of way to create issue’s with their products at the dealership to keep their service department going – over inflated prices…….. Surely quality control at toyota would be interested in what we are all saying? I believe not! I’ve been a toyota person as long as some of these service agents have been alive and no respect, no sense of servitude and no compassion for making good on their product.
I have a 2008 crewmax, I have already replaced the radio based I the recommendation of the dealer. The panel lights would not come on for climate controls and radio. Told me it would cost diagnostics and repair. It does work if you dim the lights and slowly increase intensity. Anyway that’s not my real. Complaint, I have replaced door lock actuators in both front doors. The drivers was $400 plus at the dealer. Bought the passenger side and replaced myself. Now, the left rear door and drivers door screwed up again.
Another issue I have is steering u joint on intermediate shaft creates binding and of steering. Quick onset can be dangerous. $500 for dealer to replace shaft. Short term fix. WD40 and lithium grease. Bad design with joint exposed to salt and everything else. I read tacomas have the same issue.
I have a 2007 toyato tundra with 53.230 miles First thing went bad was the master cylinder went bad, now i am having problem,s with it trying to quite while driving it will just quite and then some times it jerk and start back again somes times will quite altogether. need help Been to toyato dealership found nothing wrong. OWEWNER DAVID F. MATTHEWS – 304 – 369-4018
2008 5.7 , during early morning start its take long time to ignit wile the starter turning its dealy the ingnition cycle.
i have changed the fuel filter with the pump, replaced the sprk plugs , still the same, any body can help please
I love my 08 Tundra. Runs & tows awesome. 138,388 miles & still runs & rides like new. Been Driving Toyota trucks since the early 80’s & wouldn’t own anything else. Like was stated earlier, these are just a few issues, with a few trucks, while millions of these vehicles are on the road with no problems. People don’t usually get on these boards unless they have an issue. I just stumbled upon it by accident & thought I’d see what was going on.
I have a 2008 Tundra 2wd TRD package with the 4.7. I have owned chevy ford dodge and Nissan. Hands down this Toyota has been the best I have 290,971 miles on it. Routine maintenance and all has been good.
I recently experienced the air pump issue(truck goes into limp mode)the dealer wanted $2200 to replace it. $200 for the pump and 51 minutes later I had it replaced in my driveway.
I had started to notice an intermittent vibration also so I decided to roll up underneath and do a quick visual inspection. I found that my trans mount was completely torn. So I picked one up and installed it. I am still having the intermittent vibration so upon further inspection I saw some small tears on the rubber of the mid shaft bearing. Also when I grab the driveshaft i have about and inch or so of deflection side to side. Is this normal or is this a definite sign of a wore out mid shaft bearing? any help would be great.
I do have 34″ Nitto Trail Grapplers that I thought were the original culprit of this vibration. It seems to be in the driveline. turning right or left doesn’t effect the vibration/noise so I feel good saying I don’t think its a wheel bearing. Would love to hear your thoughts
my 2008 tundra squeals while making turns. I checked the fluid,it’s fine. what could be the problem?
Does anybody have a issue with vibration felt when driving around 50-60 mph. My friend thinks it is the ball joint because of the tire cupping. Could it be something else?
That vibration is likely the torque converter failing. It will get worse over a few months then the dealership will spend about 10 hours labor diagnosing then tell you it will need a new reconditioned transmission that will cost you about 5600 cdn. That’s the tranny and 10 hours more labor. Just happened to me at 85k miles. A few months past warranty.
I seem to be having a driveline problem, sounded like a tire and I did a test by installing the spare in place of each wheel individually, no difference. The noise happens at about 10 to 20 mph. Can’t hear it at high speeds. The Tundra just turned over 175k miles, it’s a 4wd with the 4.7. I’m guessing now the it’s a wheel bearing. It did seem to get worse when I towed a heavy trailer last week. Any comments?
I have a 2012 Tundra Crewmax with 60,000 miles. Took it to the dealer for an oil change and the mechanic noticed coolant coming out of weep hole on the pump. $1600.00 to repair. I ran chevy’s for years and never had to replace a waterpump until well after 150k miles. Toyota Quality? The service writer was almost giddy. July must be a slow month.
So far not impressed with my 2008 Tundra. I have replaced radio, both rear wheel bearings (90K) miles, Starter (100K), AC compressor (101K) and the bed is rusting out on the four corners cross members. I have had it to the dealer several times for oil changes but, no one mentioned the rust issue. I did not notice it until the paint started to bubble. I was told so sorry your two months past your warranty it all on you. Cost so far without doing the bed is over $5000. Truck was on of the best I have owned or driven until all the issues started to show.
My vibration problem seems to be temporarily cured. The driveshaft carrier bearing seems to have an excessive amount of play and I read somewhere that the noise caused by this can be reduced by packing it with some grease. Seems to have worked for now…
Thank you all for the comments. I’m a die hard toyota guy. I’ve got close to 300k miles on my landcruiser with routine maintenance. This is very disappointing. I was really looking at the 5.7L 2008 tundra double cabs. I still may consider the previous double cab 4×4 model tundras.
As far as the paint problem, i had spots showing-up on the hood and the driver’s door of my 2008 Tundra about a year after i purchase the truck. i went to the dealer, they told me it was the primer bleeding though the paint, causing it to appear to have spots. he said this was a problem Toyota has seen with the trucks that are painted white. they agreed to paint it, so i thought. After the painting was done i found out they didn’t paint the whole truck, only the affected parts. I told them what good is that. what’s going to happen when the rest of the truck starts to do that too. nothing’s been done.
I’ve also had to replace the stereo & the door lock actuators all went bad. Door lock repair was going to cost me $400.00 per door and i have the crew max 4-door. I bought some $8.00 electric small motors, that are inside the door lock actuators. Took the actuators out of the doors, replaced the motor. TOTAL REPAIR COST $32.00. This repair is not hard to do. Takes roughly 20 min per door. worth the time and effort to save that much money.