Toyota Tundra Towing Basics – What To Know Before You Tow
George Rodman | Apr 10, 2008 | Comments 428
Special thanks to TundraNetwork.com member Kenne for allowing us to use this picture of his truck and trailer!
Ever since first production in 1999, the Toyota Tundra has been a popular choice amongst truck buyers based on its dependability on the road and its impressive performance. In addition to the numerous safety awards and accolades the Tundra has received, one reason this truck continues to grow in popularity is its formidable towing capabilities. Trucks are being used more often than ever for recreational and utility purposes, and the Tundra is rapidly becoming a fan favorite. Before you go out and tow your boat to the lake or deliver a shipment of lumber to a construction site, however, there are a few things you need to know about preparing your Tundra for towing.
Before you attach the trailer to the truck, you must understand your vehicle’s towing limits. The first thing you need to consider when preparing to haul is your Tundra’s Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). This figure represents the curb weight of the vehicle along with the total weight that can be put on your truck, including passengers, fuel, aftermarket add-ons, in-bed cargo, and the tongue weight (the downward force that the trailer puts on the truck’s hitch). Depending on the exact model of your truck, this can range from roughly 6200 to 7200 lbs. For an exact number, consult your vehicles’ instruction manual or check the sticker inside the driver’s door.
The next figure you need to be aware of is your Gross Trailer Weight (GTW). This includes the weight of the actual trailer, along with all of the contents within the trailer. This could be your boat, camper, or even another car. Once you have both your GVWR and your GTW, you must make sure that the combined weight of both is below your Tundra’s Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). This figure represents the total weight of your loaded truck and trailer. This is extremely important to your vehicle’s performance and safety. An overloaded GCWR could damage your axle, engine, transmission and suspension along with affecting how your Tundra drives on the road. [Not to mention exposing you to substantial civil liability if you cause an accident – Admin]
Once you have made sure that your GCWR is below your model’s recommendations, you can determine if your hitch is strong enough to support your load and how to properly distribute the weight across your trailer. Below is a chart that represents the maximum towable weight for each classification of hitch. NOTE: The Tundra’s tow package options are varied. Most 5.7 Tundras come with a class IV/V hitch, but there are some reports of these trucks only having a class III. There are also reports of dealers adding class III hitches after market. Before you tow, take a moment to inspect your hitch..
| Class I | 2,000 lbs |
| Class II | 3,500 lbs |
| Class III | 5,000 lbs |
| Class IV | 10,000 lbs |
| Class V | 10,000+ lbs |
The most popular class of hitch, the Class IV, will accommodate most people’s hauling needs. In the event you have a load larger than 10,000 lbs, or if your hitch is not rated for your load’s weight, it is extremely important that you either adjust your trailer’s weight or upgrade hitches to avoid damaging your truck or losing your trailer on the road.
The last thing you need to do before you can haul away is to make sure the weight distribution on your trailer won’t affect your truck. It’s important to know that the tongue weight is 10%-15% of any trailer load (meaning the weight being put on your hitch ball by the trailer stays in between 10%-15% of your trailer weight). Any more or less can cause the trailer to pull up or push down on the truck’s back axle, which can reduce handling, stability, and braking and makes your truck very susceptible to an accident. A good rule to follow is to try to put 60% of your load’s weight in front of the trailer’s axle with 40% sitting behind the trailer. This generally puts enough weight on the ball of your hitch to stay within the 10%-15% range.
Once all these requirements have been met, you’re ready to attach your trailer and start towing! People tend to believe that once you attach your trailer, you can just pile on your load and drive away. But as you can see, it is extremely important that you plan ahead and understand the capabilities of your truck so that you can avoid any potential damage to your Tundra and to yourself. As long as these guidelines are followed, you and your Tundra will be able to safely tow all sorts of loads for a long time!
Written by George Rodman of uShip.com, an auction style marketplace for Auto Transport.
For a more in-depth explanation, as well as a great glossary of terms, read Toyota’s Towing Guide (pdf, 4mb).
Search terms people used to find this page:
- https://tundraheadquarters com/toyota-tundra-towing-basics-what-to-know-before-you-tow/
- 2008 tundra towing capacity
- 2008 Toyota tundra towing 8000 lb
Filed Under: Tundra Towing
The only thing I’ve towed is my 18.5 Bayliner boat with a 3.0 I/O mercruiser. Haven’t had any issue with this. It’s understandable not to over exceed the wieght limits. But how many actually know how much they are towing. You see it all the time people over doing it. No care for anyone else.
i have a bayliner 19.5 and i was wondering what the fuel econamy is with your boat as it is a similar weght as mine
towed my 28 foot haulmark with living quarters and 2800 pound BMW, had to add airbags even with distribution hitch and get 6 MPG Geeeeeeee.
Mickey – good point. It’s scary what some people do. I remember someone bragging to me about his 1 ton dodge pulling a 28,000 lb back hoe trailer! That’s called “criminal negligence” as far as I’m concerned.
1 Ton Dodge is rated for 30,000 lbs.
It wasn’t in 2008, when he made that statement.
Steven – How much does that setup weigh? 6mpg isn’t very good, but if you triple or quadruple the amount of weight you’re moving, your mileage is going to drop. Still, 6mpg is rough.
I must say, i hauled a 6×12 enclosed trailer “empty” from atlanta to ft lauderdale and i got around 8mpgs!! i was doing around 80 though, but still!
I am sorry, but you are crazy to be doing 8oMPH, especially towing. There are way too many variables that fall into play, including additional tire heat, reaction time when a fellow yahoo-er cuts in front of you, etc. I am a former firefighter that has seen his share of accidents involving high speeds.
Preskit – I’m with you. 80mph with a trailer behind me is too risky for my blood.
I am confused (it does not take much these days) I have a wonderful Toy Crewmax with a 5.7 2wd. I understand I can tow 10,400. Where can I find the GCWR number from for my vehicle to make sure I am safe.
Mary – There should be a sticker on the inside of the driver’s door jamb that has the GCWR.
Where can I find towing mirrors for 07 Tundra DC 2wd
Ebay always has tow mirrors. I was told by my dealer that Toyota did not make towing mirrors for the Tundra. I contacted another dealer and they said that Toyota did make them. I know that the later model Tundra tow mirrors are available. They are a bit of a job to install, but I would definitely suggest spending the extra money on the genuine parts. I have a pair of CIPA slip on tow mirrors to get be by until I can buy the real thing, but they do not fit as well as I would like them to.
Ronnie – You can buy the original equipment tow mirrors at your local dealership, but I don’t know if that’s the best option (certainly not the least expensive). Have you looked into getting after-market mirrors installed at your local tow shop? If you’re not sure where your local tow shop is, one of the local RV dealerships should be able to recommend someone.
Just curious about break in periods for motor speeds and when to tow. Should you have a break in period for a new tundra before you tow anything?
Reed – You should put at least 500 miles on your new Tundra at varying speeds before you begin towing or before you begin a long road trip. “Varying speeds” is key to the break-in period. My advice is to drive it like it’s a new truck and don’t spare the whip…you want to make sure everything seats correctly.
I have a 2007 dbl cab std bed, 4×2. The truck came with Bridgestone h/t. Poor wearing tire and a bit mushy when towing. I am towing 6000lb trailer now and want to upgrade to a 9000 to 10000 lb trailer. Anyone recommend a good towing tire.
So, I can assume that it won’t hurt the engine on my 2008 Tundra (rated for towing 10,400 pounds) if I tow at or near that capacity? Someone said that I should only tow 75% to 80% of the rated amount, which was a bummer for me since I want to haul horses and thought the 10,400 pounds was a valid towing amount. Does someone know the truth about this?
Did you ever find out the correct capacity?
It won’t hurt it, if you drive it right. That’s what the ratings are for.
When you’re towing you have to allow for the the weight of people and what else you have in the truck also. Towing at the max end isn’t a good practice either. First you definitely need a brake assist/controller for that much weight. The truck is prewired for one. I don’t know what else to tell you.
Thanks for the response, Mickey. I had the brake controller installed along with a gooseneck hitch in the bed. The trailer I’m looking at weighs 5,900 lbs. empty. If I add another 3,500lbs. of horses/tack, that’s 9,400 lbs. Is that pushing the limit of the 10,600 rating? (I looked again at the paperwork on the Tundra, and it says 10,600 rather than the 10,400 I mentioned earlier.)
You’re within the trailer limits but when you occupy the truck with people or whatever you have to add that weight also. With one or two people you’re close. You can do it and the truck will do it with no problem. You know your weight has to be distributed correctly as per DOT and you will know when you hit a weigh station. Main thing is safety. Enjoy both your rides the truck and horses….
Nancy – In terms of towing capacity, engine performance is rarely the limiting factor. Your Tundra is powerful enough to pull a 20k or 30k lbs trailer, but the frame, transmission, and braking systems aren’t rated to stop that much. So, as Mickey said, a weight distributing hitch and a proper trailer brake are critical as trailer weight goes up. Still, the bottom line is that you’ve got enough truck to tow your horse trailer, horses, and tack. Have fun.
I have a 07 tundra double cab 5.7 short bed TRD. I tow a 33 ft 5th wheel, have only towed short distances to get familar with towing something this big. I’ve towed 22 to 24ft boats in past with suv with no problem. The tundra seems to tow it with no problem, I also checked with toyota before purchasing the rv and they said should not be any problem. RV weights 8220 dry. Anything I should be concerned about?
George do u need a slider 5th wheel hitch to tow that trailer is your bed 5 1/2 or 6 1/2
Im having a heck of a time finding rails for Reese 5th hitch. 2000 4×4 access cab
George – I think you’ve done your due diligence. I would say the only thing left to be concerned about is the people driving on the road who don’t understand why they shouldn’t cut in front of you! 🙂
i have a 2007 crewmax with tow package,i added airbags and electronic braking system for the trailer, i will be pullina a 29ft rv with a dry weight of 6600 pds, i was wondering if this will be a problem?
frank – I can’t imagine that you’ll have any trouble with a 6600 lbs trailer. However, 6600lbs sounds awfully light for a 29 footer…have you confirmed that number for yourself? Sometimes the trailer manufacturers monkey with the numbers.
I just got a 2007 Tundra with tow haul. If my camper has elec. brakes do I have to add something to truck or does it come with it all?
yes
I have a new 2008 Tundra dbl cab 5.7L TRD w/tow pack. I was i nformed that I cannot tow a fifth wheel as the frame cannot handle the weight and will have to use a bumper hitch. Any input on this?
Tom look up two and see what George wrote. That answers your question.
In June 2008 we bought a new 2008 Toyota Tundra, 4×4, Limited, 4 door, 5.7 with a tow pkg. Then we bought a new Toy Hauler to take the CanAm quad, and head out to have fun (7200 lb Kodiak) and at that time we purchased a the anti sway trailer hitch. First, on the Tundra we installed a Banks system, airbags in the rear, and then 2″ spacers under the front so that she sits level. Everything works great, truck tows w/o a problem (avg 14 mpg when towing), all RV lights, the braking system work. However, while driving down the road, the tow package plugged in of course, the truck is not charging the batteries on the RV.
According to the Dealer this morning I have 3 diff. opinions. Sales says – no, that’s something additional. Parts says – No, the tow pkg only comes with lights & brakes. Service says, “Is the truck a 4 prong or 5 prong?”. I replied, Look, when I lift the cover of the electrical plug it has about 8 holes in it, so it appears it could be an 8 prong for all I can tell, how do I tell whether it’s set up to accommodate a 4 or 5 prong, and why does that matter?”
The Service person then said,” Does the trailer have a 7 pin connector?” I told him the reason I’d called HIM was so he could tell me all the info I needed. This goes on & on with Q’s from him such as: Who wired in the elec. trailer brakes – that wiring goes thru the same connector in your truck, maybe they broke, crimped or forgot to wire properly which could cause the battery not to chg or other problems. From reading the manual it says on 493 that this truck “can” also run the trailer batteries. But it also mentions a “battery relay installation”.
I asked then if he was telling me that we needed to install a seperate battery relay to have the truck charge the trailer? He said his gut tells him that the truck is already equipped to do that, then said that we needed to take the truck & trailer to a “good” trailer/rv repair place and the service dept there should be able to check the truck1st to detirmine if the proper wiring was already installed to charge the batteries on the RV, and if so if they were working properly, or if it needed to have a battery relay installed,. or if the problem is bad wiring on the trailer either in the Junction Box or one of the Relay Switch Boxes, which could be just a blown fuse.
My question’s are 1) Did my new Tundra come equipped with the battery charge line in it or not? And 2) If the trailer repair place plugged in a “tester” already (which they did) and say “yep, the truck wiring is working properly”, then plug the trailer into the truck, take the cover off the battery and check them with a volt meter and tell me – NO, they are not getting a charge – does that mean the problem is in the trailer wiring, not the truck?
So sorry for the very lengthy question here, but after 5 hrs and all the diff answers I got from everyone, was hoping to spare repeating what i’ve already asked and just get a straight answer. I realize i’m a woman, but I do have common sense, and utilize logic. Thank you
sounds like a bad battery on the trailer, when you put the ignition switch on the truck to the on position, this sends power out of the trailer thru the power connector, then to the trailer and battery. This in turn charges the battery. The reason i say this is because i had the same issue. If you leave your trailer disconnected from your truck for long periods the battery discharges, because somethings always stay on the trailer, lights, heater,tank level indicators etc. Anyways best thing for you to do is make sure you have (12vdc) voltage going to the battery + terminal when the truck is connected to the trailer and your ignition is on the on position.
Hey bud I know this tread is pretty old but you have the exact combination I am wanting. I have a 2012 Toy 5.7 4×4 crew cab and about to purchase the Kodiac 292 toy hauler my question for you is are you pulling it with no issue. Can the truck handle the load well? Are you getting pushed around on the road much? How does it engine do in the hills or mountains? Thanks for any advice you provide.
14 mpg…como on….my truck barely gets 13 mpg on a good day…and it has 30K on it…towing a small trailer it gets about 11mpg…. 14mpg sure like to know how ?????
Lou you definitely need an electrician for that. From what I’m reading you state that they tested the truck and the wiring was working properly. Then you plug in the trailer and checked the battery not getting a charge. Why didn’t they check the wiring in the trailer to see if it was done right also. I was thinking at first you don’t have a relay on the truck but the statement you said stated the truck’s wiring is working properly tells me something different. I have the tow package on my crewmax and I only use the 4 pin pigstick for my boat. I have the extra wiring that came with the truck for the 7 pin but haven’t used it. I don’t know or see where the relay would be at on the truck. I wish I could give you more help.
Check your breaker inside the trailer unit.
Lou – First and foremost, I want to point out that your statement “I realize i
Please help….I have a 08 tundra with tow package….the new car sticker states that i have a payload capacity of 1580 lbs…gvwr 7100 lbs. tow capacity 10,300 lbs. GCVWR 16,000 lbs. Does this mean i cannot pull a fifth wheel gvw of 8550 lbs. witha hitch weight of 1575 lbs? Is the stated payload above the gvwr of 7100 lbs? The GVW of the truck is 5880. I bought the trailer thinking I had the payload capacity as stated on the new car sticker of 1580. Thanks….
I take you have a DC 4×4?
Mickey, yes I have a DC 4×4 standard bed.
Ben – You look OK to me but it’s going to be tight. The GVWR is NOT the weight of the truck, it’s the gross weight rating (the limit of all the payload, people, fuel, etc.). Take your truck to the local weigh station and get your truck weighed with a full tank of fuel. Next, you’ll want to add your own weight, anyone else who will be riding, etc. to come up with your total loaded weight (before the trailer). Take that total loaded weight number and subtract it from the GVWR…that will tell you if you have enough payload capacity to handle the 5th wheel’s hitch weight. I think you’re going to be a little over, but I don’t know if it will be enough to worry about. As for the GCWR (the tow rating as opposed to the payload), you’re within the Tundra’s capabilities.
Ben is definately not ok with a hitch weight of 1575 lb and a payload rating of 1580 lb. The weight of people, fuel, hitch and other cargo is probably in the range of 500-1000 lb. What ever it weighs he is that much over the GVWR since the hitch weight and the payload rating are essentially equal.
I have seen a GCWR of 16,000 lb., but I can not find the source of this number anywhere. It is not even in the Toyota towing guide. This is an important number because I suspect that most trucks when fully loaded will be at or near the GVRW of 6,900 lb. This allows a real world maximum trailer tow rating of 9,100 lb.
Dan – You are absolutely correct. As I said, it’s probably going to be a little over. In my opinion, it’s within a rationale limit…but I’m not the one towing the trailer. So, Ben, please head Dan’s advice here as well.
Dan, the GCWR of 16000 lbs. is in the owners manual for the Tundra, pg 484.
Thanks for your input all.
Well I like what I have read so far so I will ask my question, I have a 2007 toyota tundra with 5.7, as I read above this truck is supposed to come with a class 4 hitch but some come with a class 3 hitch, how am I supposed to know which one I got, I have looked on the hitch and it has no rating which doesnt help at all, I have looked through the manual and it has no rating. Quite frustrating, I want to purchase a Lance 825 camper and tow my lund boat which is 2800lbs, unforunately I will need an extension. There in lies the problem, if my hitch is a class 4 I have no problem on tongue wt, if it is a class 3 I am over my tongue wt., any suggestions, also I have been told toyota tundra does not have a class five hitch available, but when I researched this I found one that Curt hitches makes, but the camper dealer said this will not work, why I ask? Then they dealer tells me I can’t take off the existing hitch on the tundra, so tell me gentleman what the heck do I do here?
Bill – I remember looking into this once upon a time. Does your truck have the big tow mirrors as original equipment? I don’t believe you can buy a Tundra with the big mirrors without also getting a class IV/V hitch. By the way, class IV and class V have “merged” with most manufacturers. Once you get over 10k lbs, the hitch isn’t the limiting factor…anyways, back to figuring out which hitch you have. The fact that the factory hitch can’t be removed likely means you have the class IV hitch – Toyota made those part of the frame. My normal sources aren’t available right now – anyone have the answer? How can we tell a class III from a class IV hitch on an 07+ Tundra?
Bill
I suspect all of the 5.7 L Tundra’s come with a class IV hitch. I don’t know why Toyota would have put a class III hitch on any of them; seems like this would be a huge liability problem.
I suspect your biggest problem may be in not exceeding the GVWR and the payload rating. You only have about 1,575 for payload. This means that the weight of people,gas, cargo, Lance camper and the tongue weight of the boat can not exceed 1,575 lbs.
I would not be surprised if you don’t need at least a 3/4 ton truck to do what you want to do.
Bill
I just looked at the Lance 825 brochure. It lists a dry weight of 1,625 lbs. This clearly will need a 3/4 or 1 ton pick-up truck. I notice that the manufacturer claims that this camper is light enough for a Tundra or Titan. They are wrong and I believe irresponsible for making this claim. It is just a matter of time before they are sued by somebody being involved in an accident with a Tundra or Titan with a Lancer camper.
I love my Tundra, but it and all the other 1/2 ton pick-ups will tow a decent sized trailer or boat, but they are just not appropriate for slide-in campers or 5th wheel trailers period!
Dan – I think you’re right about 5th wheels and half tons, especially when it comes to towing in the mountains.
Well after reading inputs form you all, thanks. I have decided my blessed Tundra will have to go. After weighing the truck, trailer, combination, I am 480 lbs. over on the gvwr. I constantly relocate for my job…so I need a vehicle that can handle my fifth wheel without having a damaged truck. Toyota HAS NOT succesfully competed with the BIG GUYS at towing fifth wheels. Anyone out there getting ready to buy a tow vehicle…..HEED MY ADVICE….1)Do not listen to salespeople, they do not know…2)payload capacity is not what is listed on the new car sticker…3)weigh your tow vehicle to find your payload capacity, as Jason said it is the ACTUAL WEIGHT of the tow vehicle less than the GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT RATING (GVWR), thats all you have left for the pin weight, passengers, etc. A moment of silence as I let Tundra go….
Ben that’s wrong to say the Tundra can’t compete with the big guys. You know it’s the best out of the 1/2 tons. You know you need a 3/4 or a 1 ton truck for what you’re doing. The Tundra can’t compete with that.
This response is in regards to Lou’s charging problem.
I don’t know the answer for sure, but I do have an opinion. I tow an Airstream trailer and my shop manual indicates that the black wire in the seven pin connector is the charging wire, so this should charge your battery. If the trailer electrical system is designed properly the wiring should be large enough so that the battery will charge properly. A good rv/trailer technician should be able to sort this out for you.
This is the exact forum I have been trying to find!
I just purchased a 2009 Tundra crewmax 2wd ( tow rating 10,400 lbs).
I just purchased a travel trailer with a dry weight of 7945lb, and it will hold 1990 pounds total.
Also, have an equalizer hitch and primus iq brake control.
I now understand I have to add the occupants and supplies in the truck to the tow weight, and they are not part of the payload calculations. Is this correct.
Is this a safe tow as long as I don’t max out the cargo weight on the travel trailer?
As long as you stay under 10,400lbs total weight. You are correct steve.
I am in getting ready to purchased a bumper pull horse trailer that the manufacturer states has a 3500 lb brake & drag axle & a GVWR of 7000 lbs. I plan to pull this with our 2003 Toyota Tundra, but before I do I want to be sure it will not overload our truck. Can you tell me whether I should re-consider? I will be getting an electric brake box installed and the trailer.
Vickie – You sound fine to me. 7k lbs is well within the capabilities of a 2003 V8 Tundra.
Hello!
I need a fresh new opinion. Am getting a 2010 Crew 5.7L 4×4 w/tow package. We will be buying a lite weight travel trailer, so I know I need to do some mods like air bags, rear stabilizer, trailer brake controller, etc.
I am VERY concerned that all these mods will void my warranty. What does everyone do?
Stacy – First of all, none of the modifications will void your warranty. The worst case is that IF one of those parts was installed incorrectly, they COULD damage some other part of the truck. The best advice is to either have the dealership install the parts and/or find a good reputable trailer shop nearby. Now I’m going to stick my nose where it doesn’t belong and ask why you’re adding all that stuff for a “light” travel trailer. Your truck will handle a light trailer just fine without any modifications. How much does the trailer weigh?
I have a 2007 toyota tundra double cab 5.7L 2wd. Can i pull a 30ft travel trailer weighing 7300 pounds if i have a brake system and a stabilizing system without major issues.
Mitch – If you have the 5.7, you’re golden. If you have the 4.6, you’ll do fine but you’ll be a little slow.
Glad I found this site, maybe someone can help me with a few questions on my 2009 Crew Max 5.7, 4WD Limited with tow Package. I have gone through my books, my sticker and looked at the plate on the door. Numbers do not seem to add up right. Anyway it appears that myt GVWR is 7200lbs and the listed curb weight is 5685 (if I remember correct). The book for my code (USK56L-PSTLKA) shows 1310 for cargo (has the moon roof and towing package). Great not a problem, however there is also a yellow sticker that says that the modification to this vehicle has decreased the payload by 380 lbs. No other details.
What is throwing me off is does this sticker jsut reflecting the 1310 payload or is it the 1310 less 380 (whick would be 930 or so)?
Now the window sticker shows the base figure of 1495 for payload (which this not match anything in my book but the base standard 4.0L V-6 2WD-standard bed which is maybe the standard for the listing), so what would the 380 decrease in payload be off of?
If it is off the 1310-not good for I have a half ton that will not carry a half ton! If the 1310 is with the 380 deduction fine.
This is my mainly Sunday go to church truck, however I am thinking of buying a TT that is listed at 6155 dry and hitch of 425. Figure with the propane and batteries and load the hitch should be getting up close to 600.
If due to that sticker that says less 380 of payload and if the payload is 1310 as listed in book, that leaves only 320 for my 200 body and gas (figure about 160 or so for gas and I guess I better loose weight) or just figure my 10100 towing capacity is great but reality puts me down a 6 X12 utility trailer due to tongue weight if I want to carry anyone?
Any ideas about what this 380 decrease sticker is really refering too.
Oh the modification, what ever they may be are all factory as the package and the only think I could see bringing it down is the tires due to they are the 20 inch ones.
Standing by and hopefully someone can help me on this, but regardless, glad I found this site.
Thanks
I want to tow a fifth well on my tundra crewmax 2010 5.7 with tow pkg. What type of hitch is recommended and gross weight to approx 6500 27 ft. should I use a slideing type of hitch. and can I put one on. thanks
Rene – If you’re pulling a 5th wheel, you’ll need a 5th wheel hitch. Since you’re pullling a 5th wheel with a CrewMax (and it’s very short bed), you’ll definitely want a sliding hitch…it will make your life a lot simpler while parking, and it will help protect your truck and trailer during normal driving as well.
Nice forum. Good advice from what I’ve read. I’m interested in anybody’s experience with airbags. I’ve driven Toyota’s for over 20 years and tongue weight has always been an issue. It’s hard to argue with how well their trucks ride empty and it’s hard to argue with their idea of a weight distributing hitch to solve tongue weight issues, except when your load is constantly changing as mine does. It would seem that airbags would be my solution but would love to hear from anyone that uses them.
Will – Airbags are great for beefing up your suspension – they’re especially nice for improving the ride. Specifically, I like them for big loads on the highway (things feel more stable), but I’ve never driven a Tundra with airbags (just SuperDuties) so I can’t speak to that specifically.
Just bought a 08 Tundra with < 10K miles on it. I love it. I’m about to install a 7 Pin connector (along with the brake controller) to tow a small camper. It came stock with the 4 pin. Has anyone installed that conversion kit (etrailer.com) where you tap into the harness? I’ll roll under the truck tonight but I’m not sure my truck came pre-wired for a 7 pin. Do all Tundras come pre-wired for 7 pin?
Great website!!
Art – Some Tundras come with a 4 pin to 7 pin adapter.
Hi Guys
i am very new to Pick up trucks and hauling trailers, just recently i have purchased a 2007 tundra double cab limited 5.7 4×4. I also bought a 7×12 enclosed trailer, i am going to carry around 500lb. I am not sure for the exact weight on the trailer since the sticker on the trailer is ripped, Trailer made by NewMan and has an aluminum frame.
Just for the curiasity with the brake control installed Am i okey to travel around?
Thank you
Atilla
Hello, Planning to buy 2010 Tundra SR5, 5.7. I would like to pull an Airstream trailer GVWR 7600, with weight distributing hitch. Do I need to beef up the suspension? I previously pulled with a 3/4 ton Suburban. How do you determine the tongue wt. on a trailer?
Atilla – Not sure how I missed your comment, but the answer is yes. You’re good with that arrangement so long as you’re not hauling solid concrete in the trailer.
Jerry – I don’t think that you’ll have a problem with the stock Tundra suspension. A good tongue weight rule-of-thumb is 10-20% of the total trailer weight.
i own a 2008 Double Cab, STD bed, 4.0 V6 2WD. it has an aftermarket hitch rated at 10,000lbs, ball mount rated at 10,000lbs and ball rated at 5,000lbs. would i be ok pulling a 12’x6′ uhaul trailer from Ft. Hood, TX to Ft. Knox, KY?
According to my book of the 07’s it shows for a Double Cab V6 standard bed can tow up to 4800lbs.
Jeremy – Without a doubt. The trailer can’t possibly hold more than you can haul.
I just bought a tundra double cab 5.7 with towing package. I pull a keystone hornet dry weight 5300 lb plus all my stuff. It did great . I met a man at the camp ground with the same equiped tundra , he was pulling a fith wheel
that weighed over 9000 lb. he said it pulled great no problem going the
speed limit on the interstate or faster if he wanted to ( hope he doesn’t want to ) He did have a slider hitch due to standard bed on double cab.
jerry – That’s awesome. A 9,000 lbs camper is big-time towing.
I have a 2010 Tundra short bed it has a 5.7 V8, can I pull a 5th wheel and what would be the max weight and length of Trailer I can pull?
I should have also said this is a CrewMax.
Bobby – About 10k in terms of the overall weight, but you need to consider two details to know for sure: 1) King pin weight. Different trailers will distribute the weight differently, and some king pins hold 25% of a trailer’s weight. If that’s the case, you’re truck’s payload limit will make it all but impossible to pull a reasonably sized fifth wheel. You need a 5th wheel that puts 15% of the weight on the king pin to approach the 10k lbs tow weight limit. 2) Pulling a 5th wheel with a really short box is tricky. You need to ask a trailer shop about some of their “sliding” hitches.
Hi
I came across this forum today. It’s been an interesting read.
I have a 2007 5.7L double cab 4×4 with the TRD package with a GVWR of 7200 lbs.
I also tow a 5th wheel 2008 Cougar 28′( ½ ton series) ya right!
My truck weighs in at 5867 lbs with a full tank of gas. The dry weight of my 5th wheel is 7326 lbs
With two occupants and the 5th wheel hitch and a few items my truck sits at 6362 lbs.
That leaves me with 838 lbs to spare to bring up to the 7200 GVWR.
With the 5th wheel empty I’m 627 over my GCWR. My GCVWR is under by 2312 lbs.
With 800 lbs in the 5th wheel distributed, I’m 769 lbs over the GVWR, with my GCVWR I’m under 1602 lbs
I just recently found this out. Everyone I talk to and see on the road is way over their GCWR.
No one seems too worried, there is the liability issue.
I have had Toyota people, even my brother-in-law that owns a Toyota dealerships says that I’m fine. I have absolutely no problem towing and handling the truck, I wasn’t concern until my brother weighed his unit. He has a Chev 2500 4×4 Diesel and a 34’ Jayco Eagle, he was over by 1600 lbs, 1100 lbs dry weight.
I’m pondering putting better tires and air bags(shocks) to help distribute the weight better, however it will not increase my GCWR. I haven’t weighed the actual weight on the pin, but I have a formula that my brother sent me to put my info in. It’s quite neat how it adjust when you add or take away from the trailer.
There is a lot of trucks on the highway way over their GVWR.
Hope this info helps. I’m still trying to decide what I’m going to do.
Later
Gil
Gil – If I’ve got it right, you’re saying that the 5th wheel doesn’t exceed your towing capacity, but it DOES exceed your payload capacity by a few hundred pounds. If that’s the case, you’ve got a few options:
1) Do nothing. A lot of people exceed their vehicle ratings on a regular basis, often without realizing. There is a factor of safety built in to the numbers, and provided you’re a careful driver you’ll likely never have a problem. Of course, one false move and you’re legally exposed.
2) Add helpers and/or air bags. Helper springs will get you an effective increase in GVWR, but not in a way that will help you legally. I’m not aware of anyone that will add springs to your truck and also give you a new sticker. SO, if you add springs or air bags, you’re doing the right thing, but it’s not going to solve the legal liability issue.
3) Get a bigger truck or a smaller trailer. Obvious I know, but worth mentioning.
I think the bottom line is that the trailer is a little too big for the truck, but like all things in life you’ve got to weigh risk vs. reward. A lot of people have told you not to worry about the risk, and based on the numbers you’ve given me I wouldn’t say that’s not necessarily *bad* advice…but if you’re a wealthy person with a lot to lose in the event of a lawsuit, I say trade the Tundra for a bigger truck.
Thanks Jason
I just wanted to post some actual numbers. My Truck can handle it, but not legally. Both truck & trailer sales people do not offer or actually do not know anything about the legality issue or choose to ignore it.
Thanks gain.Gil
Gil – For sure. That’s typical of a lot of automotive salespeople – details just get in their way! 🙂 Thanks for posting your info – I think others might find it useful.
I have a 2008 Toyota Tundra Crew Max TRD and tow a 2008 General Coach Corsair 26RLS total dry weight 7900 lbs, hitch weight 825lbs. With water, supplies etc I am probably getting close to the maximum weights allowed. Towed the trailer to Arizona and back from Northern British Columbia last year with no alterations to the truck other than better quality tires. Got rid of the 4 ply stock tires and put on 10ply’s. About 5000 miles return. Read about Firestone air bags on a forum and decided to add them last fall. Just got back from Arizona for the 2nd trip. The truck used to tow good but now it tows great. Where it really made the difference is on days with strong crosswinds. The airbags really stabalized any swaying in windy conditions. I put about 70 lbs of air in them with the trailer fully loaded.
I’ve read the questions and answers and this seems like the forum that I’ve been looking for. I would like to get honest, (not that you haven’t been honest in your answers) real life comments about the REAL towing ability of the Toyota Tundra. My wife and I would like to “See the USA in our Chevrolet” but I can’t afford another 7K for a Diesel. I do not have a trailer yet but I do have it narrowed down to a couple of models and their GVWR are between 7 and 9K but the vehicle I can afford will determine the trailer I can haul.
As I understand it, if I get the Tow Package et al, I will be able to tow 10,600 pounds of trailer, truck, and all the rest. I know it’s rated for 10,600 lbs but is this number for real or are there a number of Asterisks that go with that number.
Everything being equal and all weights where they should be, will this beast really tow that much weight on a full time basis across the desert, mountains etc.
Any actual milage numbers before having to get a new one, assuming that the vehicle is taken care of and it doesn’t have anything weird go wrong with it.
I also understand that the actual towing torque is helped a great deal by the standard 4:10 rear end and if you get the tow package it changes to a 4:30 rear end which would increase the torque a bunch but do severe damage to the gas milage.
Where in the world do you find scales to weigh a truck, trailer etc without having to drive across the state (TX) to find an official State Weigh Station.
Thank you for taking the time to respond.
Dave – Good to know on the airbags – thanks for your comments.
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JW – The 4.30 rear doesn’t really harm the fuel economy – it’s about the same either way because the transmission has 6 speeds. The 4.30 doesn’t impact the torque either – all it does is improve the leverage you have when you’re pulling from a dead stop (engine power is unaffected).
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As for what the truck will *really* tow, the rating is correct. Having said that, here’s my opinion: If you’re towing more than 8k lbs every day (and I mean daily), you’ll be much happier with a diesel. The power of the Tundra, Ram 1500, and 6.2L Chevy/GMC 1500 is enough to pull 10k lbs, but with a diesel there’s a lot bigger margin for error. There’s also the wear-and-tear factor that comes with towing at or near the max on a regular basis.
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You also want to look at the tongue weight of whatever trailer you want to buy and make sure it’s less than the Tundra’s payload rating (about 1500 lbs on most models). If the tongue weight is over 1500 lbs, it’s likely you’ll have to go with a 3/4 or 1-ton.
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As for weighing the truck/trailer combo, I know of a few trailer shops in Denver that have scales for this purpose. I don’t know where to go in TX, but I would guess the side of the highway will work just fine.
Jason, thank you for your opinions as well as the LOL at the end. Let me back off a little on the towing everyday statement, what I should have said is how will it handle the normal (if there is one) TT scenerio, cross country, sight seeing, stopping every few days, staying put for a few days or week, mountains, valleys etc.
Still don’t know where there are scales in, around or near Dallas. I will keep looking. If anyone knows, please pass it on.
Thanks,
JW
JW some of you truck stops near the interstate have scales. Tell them what you want to do and they will tell you how to put it on the scale.
Mickey,
Thank you, I will check them out.
JW
J.W. Almost all Grain elevators and feed stores have scales and are in every rural county of Texas. Most wont even charge you.
Might even try the local recycling or scrap yard.
JW – Yes – it will definitely handle what I would call “normal” towing as you describe. It’s the abnormal towing – the daily use at or near max – that I wouldn’t suggest…but that’s not because the truck can’t handle it. It’s more because I’d rather have a diesel if I was going to do that much towing. Less wear and tear, more power, better fuel economy, etc. Basically, diesels are built for towing and hauling lots of stuff all the time, so they’re my first choice for that particular mission.
Thanks Jason, I know a Diesel would be the best way to go but spending 43k on a truck plus a trailer is a tough pill to swallow.
I decided to see if there was some sort of towing calculater that would simplify my search, I found a couple of sites and plugged in the numbers and was totally bewildered by the results. According to the worksheet, I can’t pull anything heavier than a 3 to 4k trailer. I couldn’t believe it so I went through it a number of times and even had my wife (who is better with numbers than I am) try her hand at it and it came out the same. The only thing I could come up with is that I was using incorrect data but the numbers came from the Tundra webpage and from the trailer folks. I used the Keystone Bullet 246BRS which according to the website has a shipping weight of 4795 lbs and a carrying capacity of 1624 lbs and a hitch weight of 475, If I add them together it comes to 6475 lbs. Now I don’t think I will be carrying the max of 1624 lbs but I used the max just to know what the limits were. The Tundra curb weight = 5155 lbs, the GVWR is 6900 lbs which leaves a payload of 1745 lbs. The Tundra Double Cab with 6.5 bed and the SR5 package which includes the Cold Weather Package and the Towing Package gives me a towing capacity of 10,600 lbs. The Tow Package weighs in at 75 lbs, My wife and I weigh 400 lbs (I would be the heavier of us, she made sure I pointed that out), 26 gallon gas tank at 6 lbs per gallon = 171 lbs, 650 pounds for my Kawasaki Vulcan 900 LT, subtract that weight from the 1745 lbs of available payload and that leaves me with 448 lbs to spare.
If someone has the time to show me where I went wrong, I would welcome it; it’s one of the few times I would actually want to be proven wrong.
There’s one more thing that might have led to the numbers coming out as they did, we were up very late (past 1:00) and we were pretty punchy. I hope that’s the reason so I don’t look like such a Maroon (as Bugs Bunny would say).
Thank you one and all for your help and input.
J.W.
JW – I applaud you and your wife for being so thorough. There are two numbers that you need to pay attention to – the first is the trailer’s hitch weight (you listed it as 475lbs) and the trailer’s total weight while loaded (you listed that as 4975 + 1624, or 6600lbs give or take).
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The 475 lbs hitch weight counts towards your total payload rating. 1745-your options-your weight-fuel-kawasaki = 448lbs…I’d call that close enough. You’re good on payload. As for towing, 6600lbs is WELL within the Tundra’s tow rating (10,300-10,500lbs). By the looks of it, the Tundra is perfectly suited to your trailer.
Jason, thanks for your response. Okay, I must be as sharp as a marshmellow but it still doesn’t come together for me. The Tundra can’t haul more than 10,600 lbs per the website. Don’t you add the Gross Vehicle Weight + Gross Trailer Weight to get the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight and that should not exceed the tow weight of 10,600 lbs???
Let me try again, remember, I am using a worse case scenerio by using the maximum loading weights for this scenerio.
Toyota Tundra:
5155 lbs curb weight + 1745 lbs of payload = GVWR of 6900 lbs.
Take the 5155 lbs of curb weight and add the following: 75 lbs for tow package + 171 lbs for gas + 400 lbs for me and the wife + 650 lbs for the motorcycle + 475 lbs tongue weight, that brings the GVWR to 6926. That should total less than 6900 GVWR lbs but as you can see, it doesn’t, this means that I am 26 lbs over the GVWR; correct or incorrect???
So my truck GVWR is now 6926 lbs with everything loaded.
Trailer, Bullet 246RBS:
Shipping weight = 4795 lbs + maximum carrying capacity of 1624 lbs = a GTWR of 6419 lbs.
Now if I am understanding this correctly, you add the 6926 lbs GVWR of the truck and the 6419 lbs GTWR of the trailer and that should give you a GCVWR of 13,345 lbs which is 2745 lbs over the maximum tow capacity for the Tundra, correct or incorrect.
I feel that I am double dipping the figures or using the wrong numbers, either that or my math is so far off that I feel that this is an episode of the Twilight Zone.
Okay, I think I have done enough damage tonight so I will sign off and await an answer. Again, thank you for helping me figure this out.
J.W.
What am I doing wrong???
JW – I know where you’re at, and come to think of it IS pretty darn confusing. GCWR = Gross combined weight rating = the total weight of your truck, trailer, stuff, people, etc. On a Tundra with a towing package, the GCWR is about 16k lbs. If you subtract the weight of the truck from that number (when the truck is empty and it is in the most basic configuration), you get the tow rating (about 10k lbs). Since the tow rating number (10,600) ALREADY accounts for the weight of the truck, you don’t need to subtract the curb weight of your truck from that total.
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To use your numbers – 10,600-you and wife-bike-vehicle-options=10,600-1745=8950-trailer=2000 lbs to spare of towing capacity.
Jason, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! Did I mention THANK YOU!!! The funny thing is I was sitting at the kitchen table eating breakfast and talking this through with my wife and I had an epiphany; what if the tow capacity already takes into account the weight of the truck, that’s the only way this could work and then I opened my email and what do I see, the confirmation of my epiphany and that I had been making an incorrect assumption. The planets are now back in their orbits and all is okay with the world, I can go back to my mundane existance and be happy in my ignorance (smiley face). I was equating tow capacity with GCVWR = the total weight of all things should be at or less than the tow capacity. I STRONGLY suggest that all these websites make it simpler to understand for number challenged people like me. Jason, you are my towing guru, now I can go back to killing my weeds and staining my deck. If there is anything I can ever do for you, just let me know. Once again, THANK YOU, a thousand times THANK YOU!!!
To all: FYI, I emailed the RV sales company that I was going to buy from just to see what they would say when I asked them how to figure out the safe and proper weight I can tow. I asked them 5 different times and their final answer was: Forget the formulas, forget the truck weight, forget the trailer weight, forget the payload, just get a trailer that weighs at or less then your towing capacity (10,600) and you’ll be fine! That to me is dangerous and irresponsible advice and I told them so as well as letting them know that I would not be buying from them because of it.
Jason, the hitch weight of 475 is what it said in the trailer brochure but isn’t the hitch/tongue weight supposed to be 10-15% of the gross trailer weight? If so, that should make the hitch weight more like 642 @ 10% and 963 @ 15%. And I don’t know what the real GTW is until I load it up and weigh it, correct? Is hitch and tongue weight the same thing? So if I add 963 for tongue weight to the truck payload numbers it really should be 2259 which is 514 over the payload of 1745 or do I have this one messed up as well??? Thanks again for your assistance.
J.W. – LOL – No problem. So the advice you got from the trailer company is a little off, but not as irresponsible as you might believe. The numbers here are all pretty “round,” which is to say that there’s some give in the ratings. I wouldn’t advocate pulling more than your truck is rated for because it could be potentially unsafe, but exceeding one figure is OK if all the other figures are in line. However, you are absolutely correct in that the average tongue weight (aka hitch weight) is 10 – 15% of the total trailer weight. That’s about 600-1000 lbs. With the bike in the truck bed, you’re over. If you tow the bike on a trailer (or put the bike in the trailer somehow), you’re just fine.
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Here’s an alternative – keep the bike in the bed and add some rear airbags. They don’t increase your truck’s weight rating, but they give you a lot more stability. https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2008/12/19/leveling-out-a-heavy-load-air-bag-suspensions/
ok…I got one i need SOMEBODY ELSE’s opinion on……. I have a 2008 Tundra SR5 w/TRD..4X2…standard bed….. “buying” a 31 ft Toy hauler w/ 1 slide…26FBS RPM Adventure by Timberland….dry “axle” weight 5140..and dry “hitch” weight of 1380 (and that sounds high) according to the specs..adding a 2006 Heritage @ 750llbs + dress..into the cargo of the hauler… I am getting anti sway and weight distribution bars..(not sure of their weight)…. NOT towing wet with the exception of the fuel in the truck and bike and the two propane tanks….
According to Toyotas spreadsheet…. I have a tow capacity of 10,6000….GCWR of 16,000….
So…… is this REALLY going to tow this comfortably and SAFELY??? Any suggestions????
Also make sure you have a trailer brake/brake assist.
Laura – I agree the tongue weight/hitch weight number sounds high, but it really depends on the number of axles and how the weight is distributed on the trailer…so I would advise following their numbers. To answer your question, the payload rating / tongue weight is going to be close, but the overall tow rating is well within specs.
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As I’ve said before, if most of the numbers are in line and one isn’t, you’re probably OK (provided the one number that’s out of line is close). Beefing up the suspension with air bags and sway bars is a good idea, and of course Mickey is right about the trailer brake.
Have a 2000 Tundra V-8 4X4 TRD extend cab. I’m buying a travel trailer that weighs around 4400#. Will I have any problem towing it?
Do you have a tow package? It isn’t the moving the trailer but controlling and stopping. Keep that in mind you should be fine.
Ken – Greg’s got a great question. Assuming you have a class III or Class IV hitch and a trailer brake, you’re good to go.
I read an earlier post regarding the factory hitch but how can you really confirm what’s on the truck? I’m a 2008 DC Long Bed 4×4 and need to make sure I have a Class IV receiver for a 700 lb. capacity tilt-a-rack ATV carrier. Also have the tow package and factory tow mirrors.
If the tow package is listed on the manufactures window sticker you follow what it states in the owners manual. If it was a dealer installed option it will not be listed, (not listed on manufactures window sticker). They usually list dealer installed items on a separate sheet. I have a label on my receiver stating tongue weight limit with and without weight distribution hitch. Also Toyota lists the towing capacity on the window sticker, if it says 8500 then your safe to say class IV if not V, if it says over 10000 then class V. You would think there would be only one from the factory, my guess would be class V since towing was one of their big pushes.
Thanks for the info, Greg. I’m not worried about the weight…just the class for the receiver since the system attaches directly to the receiver. And I have my window sticker somewhere but you should be able to easily find this info without having to dig for that as most people actually throw it away. 700 lbs is nothing for the truck. I’ve done that easily hauling two motorcycles in the bed and never felt a thing. I just like to know exactly what’s on the truck if I plan to use it properly. Would be niceeeeeeeeeeee if I found out it was a Class V!
thanks guys… i do have the brake assist…came withthe tow pkg.
This is a “dual” axel unit…..around 5000 lbs …. but how do i find out the ACTUAL hitch weight…. and is that supposed to include the weight dist/sway bars?……
The “dealership”assures me we are WELL within our limits and then some…but i hear horror stories…salesmen just trying to sell… don’t want to be stuck with something i can’t pull.
TXTee – It’s almost always a Class V – Toyota’s selling point is that their factory hitches are tied directly into the frame rather than welded or bolted on. It seems like I’ve seen some imprinted steel with “Class IV/V” on the hitch itself somewhere. I’ll get someone to take a look.
Greg – More good info – thanks! I appreciate that very much. 🙂
Laura – So the first gen trucks with the V8 and the tow package can pull 7,500 – 8,000 lbs (somewhere in that range, not sure about the exact number). That means the trailer can’t weigh more than 7,500 lbs.
As for the hitch weight, it’s usually 10-15% of the trailer’s total weight. In this case, that’s 750lbs or less. Since the 1st gen Tundra has a payload capacity of 1200-1500 lbs (depending on cab and config), you’re covered here as well.
Finally, when it comes to whether or not you have a weight-distributing hitch, they’re not necessary until you start pulling bigger loads (8-10k lbs, depending on the truck manufacturer), but there’s no harm in having it for loads as light as 5k lbs.
So, in other words, this is one of the times when the salesperson is NOT BSing you, LOL! 🙂 You’re good to go.
LAURA, what do you mean by brake assist? You also need a brake controller in the truck to actuate the brakes and adjust the gain. Google “calculate tongue weight”, you can do it with simple math and a bathroom scale. You will also need a 3 to 4 foot board.
Sorry… Brake controller…. someone refererrd to as”brake assist” and i guess it stuck in my head…..its the box that you install in the truck that is already prewired for you to hook up to the trailer for the brake system. Ours came with all the plugs/hook ups and the box is being installed today.
Thanks for suggestion… i pulled it up.. i can’t believe you can use a simple bathroom scale. But i’m gonna give it a go…
So what is a good brand of brake controller? Our little Airstream only weighs 3500# wet, but has electric brakes and the Tundra is pre-wired for a controller, so I’d like to install one.
I have a 2010 Tundra Dbl Cab 4×4 TRD It has a tow capacity of 8300 lbs and it has the tow package.Is there any concerns or anything I need to add to the truck in order to tow a 4800 lbs empty weight trailer.I am figuring that that the GW of trailer will be about 5400 lbs.I am going to get an equilizer hitch with sway bars and add on tow mirrors from CIPI.This truck has the 4.6 and the paperwork on it says it has a 510 tongue weight receiver hitch.Im not sure of the class hitch that is on the truck.Any advise will be appreciated…Thanks…Greg
Gordich – I don’t have much of an opinion on brake controller brands. I’ve never paid much attention to be honest – they’ve all done what they were supposed to, but having said that I’m certain that some brands are better than others. Anyone with a preference?
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Greg Pile – You’ve already got a hitch on your new truck, correct? If so, then you don’t need anything else. The factory tow package includes a class IV/V hitch that’s part of the frame. Replacing that unit with something after-market is not advisable. Also, you probably don’t need to worry about sway bars or big mirrors to tow 5500 lbs – your half-ton will pull that amount of weight with ease. Still, they can’t hurt.
Yes that is correct,the hitch was part of the tow package.This will be my first time towing a travel trailer and was thinking of trying the clip on mirrors that CIPI has.My previous towing experience was a boat which i could easily see over and around.The reports on and info read prior to buying the truck with the 4.6 were positive.I am just wanting to cover all bases before my first road trip.Thanks
Greg P – I hear you. If everyone who towed took it as seriously as you did, the roads would be that much safer. Have fun man.
This site seems to be a great help to a lot of poeple. I have one question. I am looking to buy a ’07 Tundra w5.7L and pull an RV trailer (hopefully -a 5th wheel). One response said the Tundra won’t accomodate the 5th wheel hitch.
TRUE/NOT TURE??
Thanks in advance.
Yes they make a fifth wheel hitch. I would recommend a slider hitch.
This site has been a wealth of information for me, and I thank all of you for the advice you have already given. I know this has been beat to death, and I think I already know the answer, but I wanted to put my real numbers on here, more for receiving validation from you all than anything else. I am attempting to calculate the maximum trailer weight that I can ‘legally’ tow. So here it goes:
I have a 2004 DC SR5 with the tow package. Using the numbers from the owners manual I come up with the following:
Truck Curb weight – 4,780 lb, Fuel (Est.) – 160 lb, 5 family members (Est.) – 620 lb, Cargo (Est.) – 200 lb, Weight Distribution hitch – 100 lb, Tongue/Hitch Weight (Est.) – 400. Total GVWR of the truck (tow vehicle)=6,260 lb.
The GCWR for my truck, according to the manual, is 11,800 lb. If I take the tow vehicle GVWR and subtract it from the GCWR I come up with 5,540 (11,800-6,260) and the maximum, fully loaded trailer/camper that I can legally tow. Does all of that sound correct?? It looks as though the gross combined weight is really my limiting factor as I have a maximum trailer weight of 7,000 lb with the tow package. Tongue/Hitch weight is also not a factor since I have a maximum weight of 1,050 lb with a weight distributing hitch.
Just as everyone else has mentioned, when talking to camper dealers, none of them are too concerned when you mention trailer weights. Most of them look at what your maximum tow weight is, with no consideration for the other numbers, and tell you that you can get a camper with a dry weight of, say, 6,000 lbs and a load capacity of 2,500 lbs and you will be okay as long as you don’t load more than 1,000 lbs of gear in your trailer! Of course it isn’t THEIR family that you are loading in your truck and towing a trailer that pushes you beyond your max!!
I agree with J.W. that someone needs to make these numbers more easy to understand! I would appreciate any comments on whether I calculated my numbers correctly and any other input any of you might have.
Thanks.
Bob – Greg’s recommendation about a slider is a good one. As for whether or not an 07 Tundra will pull a 5th wheel, the answer is: The Tundra will pull a 5th wheel as well as any other half ton…but 5th wheels should be pulled by 3/4 or 1 tons. Most of them are simply too big for a half-ton truck by the time you load them up with equipment.
Killman – Awesome – glad to hear you like it. The numbers all look correct to me.
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As I mentioned to JW, part of the reason that camper dealers aren’t too worried about it is that there’s a fair amount of safety built into these numbers. While I don’t ever think that it’s OK to exceed limits, there are three numbers that matter: towing weight, payload limit, and GCWR. If your rig hits 2 out of those three numbers with room to spare, then SLIGHTLY exceeding one is probably OK. After all, the numbers are somewhat arbitrary.
Thanks for the quick response Jason. For a short moment after sending my initial comment, I was afraid someone was going to tell me to lose some weight so I could get a bigger camper!
I’m going to do my best to stay under all of the numbers. Personally I’d like to stay way under the numbers, but I know that is going to be difficult to do with the requirements we need for a camper. I love my ’04 Tundra and the last thing I want to do is over work it and blow it up!
Killman – Actually, the average family members weight seems pretty low! 🙂 The biggest risk with going above Toyota’s recommendation is losing control. The engine and transmission can easily accommodate twice the manufacturer’s limits…it’s the brakes and suspension that limit most vehicle tow ratings. This is why I recommend helper springs and/or airbags if you know you’re going to be pushing it. That will help you maintain control.
Jason, thanks.
I pretty much thought that was the case ( 5th wheel should be on a 3/4 T or bigger). I don’t want a big 5th wheel, but as always…if the RIGHT deal comes along, one needs to be ready. 🙂
Thanks again.
Bob, there are feather light 5th wheel trailers designed for half ton trucks. If your waiting on a good deal on a feather light pack a lunch, it could be a while or never! There are more half ton trucks on the road than HD’s meaning more than likely they will always have a buyer for them. As for the larger fifth wheels requiring 3/4 to 1 ton you can get really good deals on them you just have to wait. My feelings are if I’m gonna own a RV I’m buying the biggest truck I can so I’m restricted by my wallet or features of the RV but not the capacity of the truck! I missed a RV deal of a lifetime before because my truck was a half ton!
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Killman, as for the weight of your truck. Have you done any modifications to it? Bed cover, bed liner, step bars? I you have your Max weight is lower. What I do is once a year when I’m getting gas with the family, I run my truck with everyone in it across the scales at the truck stop. It gives you the actual weight of your vehicle with the family and topped off fluids. Cost $6.00. Also before I hit the road on a long trip win the trailer I hit the scale one more time. If I’m in a accident and I’m over weight, it doesn’t matter who’s fault it was. I’m overweight and contributing, more than likely going to be found at fault!
Just an update to my April 26th comment and an important FYI. The dealer that I was dealing with had an F- rating from the BBB so I stopped talking to them; about a month after I had spoken to them I read that they were in some financial trouble and a few days after that I read that they went belly up and all the money folks, state and federal came and shut them down, took the inventory and the customers were left standing outside the locked fence and couldn’t get to their TT’s. It may be a long time before they see their money or property because the customer is the last to be taken care of in these situations. SO a BIG FYI…If your dealer is not a member of the BBB, take heed and if there not, you can still find out what there rating is based on customer complaints. Research your butt off and it will make your life soooooo much less complicated. I am now dealing with a BBB dealer (also check customer refrences and talk to customers that are at the dealership and if they are repeat customers. Thanks to all. J.W.
Hello again, I know this question will probably open up a big can of (fill in the blank) and I know this is a Toyota based webpage but does anyone have real life experience and opinions (based on fact, not emotion or pride) on reliable, quality, service, longevity etc travel trailers. And not just the trailers themselves but the company behind them. I have looked at Forest River models and I know that it is a Berkshire-Hathaway company (Warren Buffet), no slouch there and it seems that the top parent companies are Forest River, Keystone and Heartland. Please leave the ego’s at the door on this one. Thanks again.
Bob – Happy to help.
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Matt – Good points about feather lights and weighing your truck. You’re absolutely correct that being overweight could make you at-fault in an accident, but my guess is that common sense is still in play. For example, if you’re hauling too much weight and I pull in front of you in a dangerous and reckless manner, I think the officer at the scene would give me the ticket…especially if you’re only slightly over. On the other hand, if you’re hauling a 30k lbs Caterpillar with your truck, then I’m probably not getting a ticket. I guess what I’m saying is, there are degrees of pulling too much. Still, you make a very valid point.
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JW – Crazy story! Hopefully no consumers got hurt, but I’m glad to hear that place went out of business…sounds like they needed to. I have no real opinion on trailer brands, unfortunately.
Jason – Thanks again for the info. I’m planning on fueling up and hitting the scales on the way home today to see what my truck and (most) of the family in the truck brings the weight to. Adding the remainder of the family and gear weight in the truck will be easy to figure. We’re in the process of buying a new TT, so that is why I’m really trying to find my numbers. I don’t want to end up with something that is too big that I can’t pull, legally or illegally. I’m also trying to be very conservative on my numbers so that I have some safety factor in there as well. All in all I think I feel comfortable with the numbers that I’ve been given so far, although you never know the final weights of the camper that you pull off the lot until you actually go and weigh it. Where we typically go camping there are a couple of mile long, 15 degree inclines/declines we have to take and I just want to make sure that I’ll be able to pull up them with no problem…other than going kind of slow.
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J.W. – I can’t say I know alot about any of the trailers, but we’ve been looking mainly at the Forest River and Jayco trailers. That seems to be what the majority of the dealers around here carry. It looks like we are leaning towards the Forest River, in either the Rockwood or Flagstaff series. I’ve been told that these two come off of the same assembly line, so they are pretty identical. We’ve also looked at their Salem series. Warranty-wise, Jayco seems to have the best with a 2 year bumper to hitch warranty, where Forest River is just a 1 year. Both brands have been in business a long time and both weathered the economic decline fairly well. That’s about all that I can offer. Not sure if that is what you wanted or not.
Killman – For sure. I’m confident your approach will put you in a position to be successful.
Jason and Killman, thanks for the input. A couple of folks told me to stay away from any Dutchmen brand, no specific reason was given; and I was also told that not only is the Flagstaff heated in the underbelly but they also heat each tank as well; so that’s a selling point if you are going to be in the frozen north country. If you go to the NADA webpage you can find out the actual MSRP of each unit as well as price information on used trailers. Haven’t found a good unbiased review site yet but I’m still looking.
Hey guys, I’ve skimmed this entire page and can’t get a reading on towing speeds. I have a ’10 CMax w/ the 5.7L and 4.30 diff. I am only pulling a 2000lb camper, but I found my truck getting away from me on level surfaces and running 75-80 MPH despite my trying to keep it at or below 70 (okay, I was maybe pushing a just little too hard on the gas and not paying attention to the speedo) . The truck seemed fine doing this (i.e. no hunting for gears) and I did run in tow/haul mode just for added take-off power and engine braking. Any harm to the transmission running this fast? I am actually more concerned about the bearings on the camper, but want to be sure I don’t cook my transmission. The trans temp never budged. Cruise was always off and hills were taken nice and easy, maybe at 70 MPH max on soft hills and overpasses. Would love y’alls thoughts on saving the transmission. I have a friend with an 07 Tundra 5.7L who has been through a transmission already and having problems with the second. She hauls horses often. Thoughts on towing speeds?
Brian,
I have the ’04 Tundra with the 4.7L. I’ve been towing a 3000lb popup with it for 6 years now. Just like you, my truck drives like there is nothing behind it. I usually drive with it in overdrive except for when going up large inclines. That will change shortly since we are buying a nearly 6000lb travel trailer. I’ll be in tow mode the entire time. Just hope I’ll be able to make it up the big inclines without damaging any truck components! As for how fast you should be driving, I think it does come down more to the camper having issues than your truck. If you have proper tongue weight and the camper is loaded where you have no sway, then you usually have very few problems. Some of the smaller campers have, what I call, golf cart wheels and tires. These, in my opinion, aren’t good for high speed travel. If you want, google ‘popup explorer’. It is a pretty good popup camper community and these folks know all about towing popups and what you should and should not do.
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Anonymous (J.W.??),
The Rockwood is the exact same trailer as the Flagstaff, so look at both if that is the direction you are going. The only real difference between the two is trim choice and maybe a few of the options. I believe that most all of the larger TT manufacturers made a ‘Four Season’ version of their camper. These are the ones with the sealed underbelly and the heated holding tanks. Not only does the sealed underbelly keep the tanks warm, it helps insulate the floor as well. It also is supposed to be more aerodynamic and another plus is that it helps keep critters from sneaking in through any cutouts in the floor for plumbing and such! Of course it adds about $1000 to the price of the camper as well.
Killman, your welcome for the info. You know the run it across the scales. If your worried about towing a bigger trailer maybe you want to look at buying a bigger truck. Just a idea. Since you have been towing for so long you SHOULD know what the speed limit is for your trailer. Its pretty easy to figure out! If you can’t let me know and I can explain the different ways to figure it out.
Matt,
I ran my truck across the scales yesterday with me and a full tank of gas. Although the CAT scales here cost $9! Anyway, the numbers came in pretty close to what I was calculating. I’ve also run some other numbers and what I’ve come up with is a Maximum Trailer weight (using all of the weight numbers that I have) of 6200 lbs. With a 15% safety margin that number drops to 5270 lbs. The camper is going to run about 5600 lbs loaded, so I feel comfortable with the 330 lb difference as I have been very conservative (over-weighing) with my passenger and cargo numbers. My first stop after we buy the trailer will be the scales just up the street from the dealer.
Funny you mention a new truck. I just emailed my dealer just to confirm some info on my truck based on the VIN number. He feels that the truck should have no problem pulling the camper, but that didn’t stop him from throwing in a plug for me to buy a new/bigger truck at 0% financing!
anonymous – Cool – thanks for the info. Maybe I should create a site for RV and camper reviews, eh?
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Brian J – I’m 90% positive that Toyota advises a top towing speed of 55mph with the OD off. That prevents transmission wear. Having said that, I see lots of people breaking this rule. My suggestion, however, would be to stick with 55-65 mph. Speed + mass = lots of momentum, and it’s not a linear function…which is my fancy way of saying it’s significantly more difficult to stop a trailer going 60mph than one going 55mph (about 15% harder). Comparing 55mph to 75mph, it’s 85% harder to stop a trailer going 75. This is a big reason for the suggested speed limit.
I know that current vehicles state not to exceed 55 MPH during the first 500 miles of towing for break in purposes. After that its the speed rating of the tires or what is listed in the trailer operating manual or the trailer speed limit by state which ever is less. Some states have a trailer speed limit lower than the posted speed limit. As for trailer bearings, as long as you do the proper maintenance on them and do not exceed the Max weigh of the trailer they should last for years! Stopping distance is affected BUT If you have well maintained trailer brakes and properly adjust them you will be fine runin 75mph. My trailer stops my truck, I feel them grabbing When I badly touch my brakes. You can use the gain to adjust that.
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Does the 04 tundra eliminate (lock out) overdrive completely when the tow haul engaged or does it just change the shift pattern of all the gears to include O/D. Almost all new vehicles still use the OD whn in tow haul.
Jason, Killman et al…Yes, anonymous is me J. W. somehow my name etc didn’t make it through the internet ether. An up to date honest review site of TT’s etc would be awsome. Trying to get just the facts vs emotion/opinion would be the tricky part. Opinions would be fine if they are stated as that, maybe you could divide it into sections of opinion and facts. I could only find one site that stated it was independent; JR Consumer Reviews, has anyone had any dealings with this group? There were some other sites but I wasn’t impressed with them.
Greg – I’m not sure if the 04′ Tundra locks out OD or not, but my understanding is that this was a common practice industry wide. Having said that, I just did some checking and it looks like a lot of manufacturers don’t specifically recommend against towing on Overdrive, so I might be wrong about that one. As for the 55mph speed limit, I think it’s prudent, but it really does depend on the weight being hauled, the vehicle hauling, the traffic and weather conditions, the road, and the driver. 75mph on a sunny dat and an empty stretch of flatland is fine. 40 mph downhill on I-70 coming into Denver on a crowded and snowy Sunday afternoon hauling 10k? Could be suicidal. SO, perhaps prudent speed is a better description. 🙂
JW – I don’t know – I don’t think there’s a good resource aside from forums and your local tow shop. If you find a place in your area that installs trailer hitches but that doesn’t sell trailers, they would be the people to ask I think.
Hi guys, I just found this site and yes it has valuable info. However I am looking to pull a tractor weighing 8,000 lbs and trailer of 2,300 lbs with my 2008 TRD 5.7 DC regular bed Tundra, which is capable of towing 10,300 lbs. I will only be traveling a couple times a week and only a couple of miles each time between my two properties and believe I will be fine, but it wouldn’t hurt to ask you guys. I was surprised to see that no one else here had questions regarding hauling equipment as the ad on tv showed a Tundra hauling a TLB, which is what I am going to be doing. I just want to be safe. I will be the only person in the truck.
P.S I have only owned a Toyota since 1988 and today we have 2 4 runners and 1 corolla S car along with this Tundra and non of these vehicles has ever let us down. I want to remain a Toyota owner and hope this Tundra is adequate to handle my towing needs.
Thanks in advance for your response.
Rocky
Rocky – As long as the tongue weight is about the same as the payload rating – and that could be the case – you’re OK. However, that’s a lot of weight. You might want to measure everything to make sure you’re not underestimating.
Hi Jason,
I believe I read that 10 to 15% of the load weight would be tongue weight. Rough math 10,000 lbs x 10 or 15 % would put me between 1,000lbs and 1,500lbs, which I believe the 1,500 is max, but it should be ok.
Thanks again.
Rocky
Rocky – Usually that’s the case, but some trailers can have a tongue weight as high as 25%. If you pinned me down, I’d say that you’re probably close enough. However, weighing the whole thing sounds like a prudent idea.
Hello Jason, I have a 29′ camper that has a dry wt. of 7,500lbs, loaded should be in the 8,500lb ball park. I am looking at the 2010 tundra dc 4×4 tundra grade. I like the economy of the 4.6, and will only be towing about 200 miles round trip once a month. That being said do I need the 5.7, and if so is there anything I can do to improve the 5.7 fuel economy while not towing. As it will be used for driving around town for business.
On a different note what would be a good tire to outfit this truck with. On the tundra grade most I have seen are the 255r tires.
Thanks,
Kevin
Im not on an expert in this subject,but i do have some experience towing with a 4.6 2010 Tundra.I just got back from a 1300 mile road trip towing a 5500 lb travel trailer from Nevada to Texas..For the weight I was pulling the .4.6 was very capable.there were a few times I the mountain areas of Arizona and New Mexico that I had to drop into 3rd gear to maintain 55 mph going up long hills.Lots of time was spent in 4th gear cruising along at 62-65 mph.On the flat stretches 5th gear was a breeze.I think that adding another 3000 lbs to this would have maxed it out.I honestly believe that the tow rating of my truck which is 8300 lbs should in reality be around 7000 lbs.Do yourself a BIG FAVOR and get the 5.7.The 4.6 works for me but I could not Imagine the 4.6 doing well at all pulling at its max rating.
Kevin M – I think you’ll be really glad you have the 5.7 when you’re pulling that trailer. As for tires, there are a lot of options…since you’re going to be pulling a lot, I’d look at an all-season tire that will get gas mileage with a load rating of E or F.
Greg – Good advice.
Thanks for all the great feed back guys, this is saving me some major headaches and severe buyers remorse.
Its great to know that a forum like this exist.
Thanks again,
Kevin
I purchased a 2010 Tundra Crew Max Platinum with a with a GVWR of 7200lbs and a towing capacity of 10200lbs. I purchased a 2011 5th wheel with dry weight of 7700lbs. I have towed a couple of times and everything seems to work great. However, in gear D the transmission moved from 4th to 5th gear frequently. What do you recommend to prevent this? Can I travel in 4th gear?
Also, like other people I am somewhat concerned about the towing calculations… if I read correctly from previous dialogue, 2 out of 3 ain’t bad??? I weighed my truck and trailer… Trailer/loaded = 9127lbs . Truck/loaded = 6900lbs CVW=16000lbs
When I weigh the axles the Trailer is at 7100lbs and the Truck Front=3600lbs / Truck Rear =5300lbs.
So I am below GCWR at 16000lbs and I am below maxium tow at 9127lbs. My concern is the GVWR at 7200lbs. If I am calculating correctly, my GVW is at 8900lbs (combined truck axle weight).
Should I be concerned about the GVW???
Thinking of buying 2008 Tundra with 4.7, how do you think it would hold up hauling about 5000 lbs across the country a lot. About 100,000 miles a year?
Dean – The transmission is going to shift between 4th and 5th automatically…it’s not something that can be controlled by either selecting the speed or locking out the overdrive.
As for the math, you should take the GCWR(16k), subtract the weight of the loaded truck (6900) and the loaded trailer (9100). If you end up with a negative number, you’re over the limit by that amount.
All things considered, I think you’re within the limits of the truck.
Rod – It depends on the truck. It could be great, or it could be that the person who traded it in got rid of it for a reason. Have you had a mechanic check it out?
I have a combination towing/safety question. I had a 2004 Tundra SR5 longbed. It pulled my 12 foot haulmark trailer in an awesome fashion. The exception was that on ice I needed to put it in 4W drive, and even without stability control engaged it traveled great. My husband was driving my truck and trailer. In reading the above materials it was properly loaded. We hit a sudden severe hailstorm. Within seconds I saw the trailer start to swing to the left as we careened across two lanes of highway and hit a SUV almost head-on. Thankfully I believe driving a Toyota helped save our lives. I want to buy another Toyota. Would it be better to buy a 2007 or later model since they now have brake assist and traction control? Would that make a difference on snow and ice?
Hello. I have recently purchased a 2006 Tundra. It’s a 4.7 v8. I was looking into acquiring a 5th wheel and I need to figure out what the tow rating for the truck is. My understanding is that this may differ slightly from some of the numbers addressed above because I’m not using my bumper hitch (which is a class 3 by the way) in this instance. Is that correct? And if so could anyone tell me where to obtain my truck’s tow rating? Thanks for the help in advance so many of my other questions were answered above, this site is a great benefit to us newbies.
Penny – While all recent Toyota trucks have ABS, traction control will definitely help keep your truck from skidding on slippery surfaces. However, traction control will do almost nothing to stabilize your trailer. If you’re looking to maximize towing safety, the two big tips are 1) Get a big truck and 2) Go slow. The likelihood of a trailer losing control in a crosswind is about 4 times higher at 55mph than it is at 40mph. I’m not saying your accident was caused by high speed, but slowing down reduces the chances of things going wrong.
With a 12′ trailer, the Tundra is probably big enough. However, bigger trucks are more stable and less likely to be pulled around by whatever they’re carrying.
Paul – It’s hard for me to imagine that a 2006 Tundra is going to be big enough to pull any sort of 5th wheel. However, if you want to find out for sure, find the sticker in the door jamb that says GCWR. Then the math goes like this:
Max towing capacity = GCWR minus the weight of your truck
You can find out how much your truck weighs at a local truck stop with a scale or a weigh station.
Next, you’ll want to make sure that the tongue weight of your 5th wheel isn’t in excess of your truck’s payload capacity (which is roughly 1,400 lbs). Tongue weights are 10-20% of the total trailer weight, so…if your 5th wheel weighs much more than 8,000 lbs, it’s probably too big for your truck.
Since most 5th wheels are quite a bit bigger than 8k, I’m guessing you’ll want to look at something on the smaller end of the scale.
I have a toyota tundra dc 4×4 8ft bed with towing package , payload on sticker is 1550 ,also have maxloader helper springs,looking at fifthwheel with 7440lb empty,1565 hitch wieght,truck wieght 7200,towing cap. is 10,200. Going nuts with all these calculations,can someone please tell me if im over or under or close,thank you
Bob – If the dry hitch weight is 1565 and your max payload rating is 1550, you’re probably going to be over. After you add gear to the fifthwheel and to your truck, you’ll be looking at being at least a couple hundred pounds over that payload number and perhaps as much as 500 lbs over, depending on how much you add to your fifthwheel.
Remember, it’s not just the puling capacity: your truck has to be able to hold the front end of the trailer too (the hitch weight).
Thanks Jason. Really appreciate the excellent advice and insights.
Penny – For sure.
Jason, thanks for the information I greatly appreciate it.
Paul – You bet.
i have a 2007 tundra 4.6 liter 5 speed automatic. it is the new big body and 4×4. what is my tow capacity and more spicificlly what size fifth wheel or travel trailor can i pull safely?
brad – You must have a 4.7 if you’re driving an 07′ – see Paul’s question and my response from July 26th.
I have a 2008 Tundra TRD 5.7 CrewMax. I average 18 mpg under pretty much any condition whether interstate or in town. However when I hook my TT which has a dry weight of 5997# the MPG’s drop to 9-10 mpg… The amount of cargo in the TT is very limited. Is 9-10 mpg atypical for this truck/trailer combination? Its dishearting to watch the fuel gauge and have been tempted to put a piece of black tape over it while traveling but overall I know thats not the smart thing to do lol. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Oops.. I will add that I stay around 55-65 mph while on the interstate pulling the TT.
Lee – That gauge is a little misleading, so you might try calculating the gas mileage manually.
None the less, it’s on the low side of normal. You can try checking your tire pressure, air filter, etc. – see this post for more ideas: https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2007/07/20/tundra-fuel-economy-7-ways-to-improve-your-tundras-mpg/
I have read through all the comments here, very informative.
However I still have a question;
I have 2009 Tundra with a 4.0 V6 (with a shell which weighs 5200 with full gas & one passenger according) which I pick up loads from Los Angeles to Oregon once per month for which the truck does quite well (I never need to go below less than 4th gear on the grades heading back)
We have a tried Class C motorhome that has had issues despite spending $1000s in prep each year so we finally decided after this last trip chock full of problems to consider a travel trailer and pull this with our truck.
We found a Lance 2281 with a dry weight of 3675 (I would safely say at least 4200 with water and some amenities).
According to the Lance Dealer this truck should not have any problem (he stated that he has sold this trailer for Tacoma trucks which are lighter with no complaints).
With a GCWR of 10,000 I am still not feeling confident including the axel, transmission, & breaking.
My questions is what are other’s thoughts and if this is a “no go” is there an after market way to “beef up” this truck?
I will also note that as for engine power on grades, when I consider that my lemon Class C cannot pull a 6% grade at more than 40 mph (while I watch larger RVs pass me with vehicles in tow), I do not see how I can do much worse with this Tundra and a Trailer despite the V6)
Carl – You’ll be good to go for sure – your truck is more than capable of pulling a travel trailer around 4k lbs. You could pull that load with a V6 Tacoma without any problems, so your Tundra is definitely going to be solid with it’s larger brakes and heavier curb weight.
As for *how* it will pull, I think you will be surprised with the power, but it’s not going to be the fastest truck on the road. You might still get passed, but so what? Getting there is all that matters, right? 🙂
Thank you Jason for the speedy reply and placing my mind at ease.
Carl
Carl – I do what I can man! 🙂
How does a weight distributing hitch affect the payload capacity of a vehicle? I have a 2010 Tundra Double cab, 4WD, with 5.7 liter V8. I bought the truck new with the factory tow package which states the payload capacity is 1640 lbs, has a 10,300 lb max tow capacity, and the GCWR is 16,000 lbs. I am looking to buy a 2011 model Flagstaff TT by Forest River, This TT has a unloaded vehicle weight of 6,389 lbs, a GVWR of 8,597 lbs (1900lbs of cargo capacity)with a hitch weight of 851 lbs. I cannot find the curb weight of my truck in the owners manual( where I found the above truck data). I currently use a EAZ LIFT 1000 lb weight distribution hitch to tow my currently owned Keystone Passport TT but am looking to upgrade to the heavier Flagstaff model. I obviously use electric brakes on the Passport. The Tundra tows the Passport with great ease. How does the weight distribution hitch affect the truck’s cargo carrying capacity. I believe the hitch throws the weight to the front of the truck and to the rear of the trailer, thus the 851 lbs of hitch weight is misleading. That 851 lbs is not all sitting on the rear of the truck. Or am I wrong? With a truck payload capacity of 1640 lbs minus a hitch weight of 851 lbs, 320 lbs of weight of 2 occupants, 140 lbs of gas, 300 lbs of cargo in the truck cab, this only leaves 29 “free pounds” from going over the limit. Am I figuring this incorrectly since the weight distributing hitch shifts the weight? The combined total weight of the loaded truck and loaded trailer should be much less than the 16,000 GCWR. In short, will this Flagstaff be too heavy to tow with my Tundra? Thanks in advance for your help. Terry
I forgot to mention that my currently owned 2010 Keystone Passport 285RL TT has a hitch weight of 605lbs, an empty shipping weight of 4915 lbs, and a caring capacity of 1290 lbs. This TT is 31.5 feet long. My Tundra tows this Passport really well with no sway and gets about 11 mpg. My major concern with the Flagstaff model 831RLBSS, 34.75 feet long, that we are considering purchasing is the 851 lbs of hitch weight. Again, thanks in advance. Terry
Terry – The capacity and weights all sound inline to me. The biggest benefit of a weight-distributing hitch is improved handling and breaking.
I spoke to the RV dealer today. I explained my concern about the 851 lb hitch weight and with a cargo capacity of 1640 lb this only leaves 789 lbs for myself & wife (320lbs), gasoline(140lbs), and allowing for 300 lbs of cargo, only leaves a leeway of 29 lbs before I max out on the cargo capacity. The dealer replied that the hitch weight was distributed throughout the entire combination of truck and travel trailer and the 851 lbs of total hitch weight should not be entirely added into the considered weight in the cargo area. Is he correct? If he is correct, then roughly how much, or percent, of the 851 lbs of hitch weight should be considered as being counted in toward the cargo weight. I am really cautious with this cargo weight problem. My wife and I really like this Flagstaff model 831RLBSS travel trailer but I want to be certain my Tundra will handle the cargo weight. If it is safe for towing, should I always pull this camper in the tow haul mode? While we will do most of our travel in the Southeastern portion of the USA, we plan to tow it also throughout the US and Canadian Rockies and up to Alaska. Again, thanks for your help in advance. Terry
Jason, please look at my latest Sept. 27 post regarding maximum truck payload capacity. Perhaps I being too cautious. I just don’t want to buy a trailer that is too heavy for my Tundra or is unsafe for my family or other families on the road. Thanks for your above reply and in advance for, hopefully, this reply. Terry
Terry – The trailer salesman is full of it – the cargo weight is everything – hitch + passengers + fuel + options, etc.
Having said that, you should re-read the comments from others with similar questions. I feel that close is good enough with this sort of thing…the numbers the trailer people give you aren’t that precise to begin with, and there’s always room for error. If you’re within 10%, it’s my opinion that you’re within tolerances.
Jason, thanks so much for your expertise and comments. They mean a great deal to me. I really appreciate you taking the time to read and respond. I think I will be fine with the trailer.
Terry – You bet – I think you will be fine too. If you’re as careful driving as you are before buying, I’m confident you’ll be safe. 🙂 Have fun.
I have a 2008 5.7 4×4 xcab Tundra. I previously had a 95HD 3/4 GMC. I recently tried to tow a tandem car trailer with a tractor on that I have done in the past with the GMC with no problems. I would guess the weight of trailer and tractor about 9000. I have a weight distribution hitch and I believe it to be adjusted correctly. Now to the problem. When I put this trailer on with the tractor, the tires on the truck noticebly bulged. These are the stock R255/70R18 Michelin tires. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Bill – That’s pretty typical of the OEM tires on a new truck. Unless you order them special (and Toyota doesn’t really do special orders), you’ll want to look at some ‘Load Range E’ tires. They have more plies and can withstand the pressure of trailer weight without deforming nearly as much. The truck will handle a little better with them on.
Having said that, the stock tires will do the job. They just will be a little more “wobbly” or “soft” in terms of handling.
Thanks for the quick response. I kind of thought that might be the case since these tires are touted for mileage and ride quality which is a compromise for towing capability. I also will mention that the rear measured at the wheel well opening dropped about 2″. I suspect the answer here is soft springs for ride quality and that I can add some air shocks. I LOVE this truck, but it is a little disappointing that it won’t really pull what it’s rated out without adding all these extras. The 5.7 PULLED the weight very nicely. Thanks again for your help
Bill – For sure. It’s a pretty common problem on trucks that the OEM tires need replacement. From SuperDuty Fords to Tacomas, the tires were built by the low-cost bidder. They’re almost always a weak point on the truck.
What’s even worse is that new fuel economy regs make it likely that manufacturers will start using low rolling resistance tires, which will have pitiful off-road ability, decreased handling and braking ability, etc…all to save 1mpg. Not a good trade in my opinion, but I don’t have to meet these new regs either…
I have a 2003 Tundra V-6 2WD with a hitch thru the hole on the rear bumper. It usually used to haul a light trailer, but I am thinking of hauling my small farm tractor on a uhaul car trailer to the dealer for repairs. What is the rating of the hitch? My research shows thw weight of the truck to be about 4000 lbs. and the trailer with tractor loaded about 5000 lbs. Is this safe?
Thanks,
Otey
otey – Bumper hitches usually aren’t rated for more than 2,000 lbs (with some exceptions). What you need is a true receiver hitch (hole under the bumper attached to a rigid steel frame attached to truck frame). If you have a receiver, you’re good to go up to 8000 lbs.
Thanks for the quick reply. I’ll have to try a different tack.
I have a 2008 2WD 5.7L SR5 double cab with the factory tow package installed. It should easily be able to haul the new horse trailer I purchased (2H bumper pull, probably only about 5000 lbs with horses on). However, the trailer folks asked me for the hitch information, and when I went to check the receiver I couldn’t find any type of label or sticker on the factory installed equipment. I even scooted underneath with a flashlight, I found what looks to be a serial number or something but nothing clearly stating the specs. I know that I *should* have a Class IV hitch at a minimum based upon the stated towing capacity for the model, but how can I verify that? I would be absolutely horrified to find out I’ve been towing with a Class III without being aware of it esp. after reading the short article posted at the top of this page!!!
P.S. Just wanted to clarify that the aftermarket hitch I bought (that fits into the factory receiver) *is* a Class IV, it is the receiver that I’d like to be able to verify.
P.S. Just to clarify, the aftermarket hitch and ball I purchased *are* Class IV, it is the receiver that I’d like to verify.
P.S. Just to clarify, the aftermarket hitch I purchased *is* Class IV (with a 10K capacity on the ball), but it is the spec on the receiver that I’d like to verify.
Angela – This is a good question. I’ve never been able to verify that a particular Tundra has the Class IV/V receiver without verifying that it also has the factory tow package.
If you know you have the tow package (it’s listed on the original sitcker), then you DEFINITELY have the class IV/V receiver.
BTW – just checked a tool I have access to and it looks like the 08′ only came with the IV/V. SO, if you have the factory system, you’re good.
Sweet, thanks! I checked the original window sticker, and it does say we have the tow package. Thanks for the peace of mind 😉 despite my browser fail and multiple posts.
Angela – You bet. If you can drop a link to our site somewhere (forum, blog, company website, etc.), I would be most grateful.
Wonderful thread.
Anyone know any stats on how much weight a WD hitch sends to the trailer axel. I was hoping at least 15% of the the tongue weight and would be very happy if it was as much as 25%. I have a 2010 crewmax limited 4×4. The revised 9K towing is still nice sounding but perhaps irrelevant when you look at all you need to do to stay honestly under GVWR and add in all the real world family+kids+dog weight it’s amazing how quickly it appears that the towing capacity gets knocked down to around 4500. This is why I’m hoping the WD hitch will shift more weight off the truck.
Sorry. I mean axle.
K. Brown – The WD hitch doesn’t effect tongue weight to my understanding…it’s the design of the trailer that effects that number.
can a tundra 4×4 be towed behind a RV.
ron – That’s often called ‘flat towing’ or ‘dinghy towing’ and, according to the Toyota Tundra manual, it’s strongly NOT recommended. Sorry.
It’s a rare 4WD vehicle that can be flat towed. Some companies make kits that allow you to flat-tow a vehicle that isn’t designed for it…your local RV/trailer shop might have a suggestion.
I just bought a 07 crewmax limited 5.7 and want to install a gooseneck hitch in the bed to haul my 3 horse trailer. I was told that there isn’t a hitch for the short 5.5 ft bed and there’s no way to install one. I was also told I even if i found a way to install a hitch, I shouldn’t haul a gooseneck with a short bed. Is that right?
You might be able to add a fifth wheel to a 5.5′ bed if you use a sliding hitch, and then perhaps you can use a gooseneck to 5th wheel adapter. Also, I would double-check the tongue weight of the horse trailer…my guess is that it’s far too heavy for a half-ton truck even though the trailer’s total weight is within the limits of the Tundra.
I have a 2007 CrewMax 5.7L 4×4 and I am looking to buy a larger TT. Working on my GCWR calculations I think I am adding in the tongue weight twice. My GVWR incorporates the tongue weight. My GTW includes total trailer weight. If I add GVWR to my GTW should I subtract out the tongue weight? Here was my late night math:
GVWR Max 7,200
Tundra 5,685
Tongue weight 750
Passangers 445
Gas 171
Misc Stuff 200
Total 7,251
GTW Max 10,100
TT Shipping Weight 6,987
Carrying Capacity 1,213
Total 8,200
GCWR 16,000
Actual 15,451
Myles – You are adding the tongue weight twice in your calculated GCWR. However, all your other math looks fine. The GVWR is just a hair over, but the trailer tow weight is well under the max. Looks OK to me.
Thank you Jason!!! This forum has taken the mystery out of the GVWR, GCWR, and GTW topic. I enjoyed reading through the thread and seeing all the banter. I finally went and looked at the 30ft Outback trailer today feeling confident it will work. Thank you very much!
Myles – You bet – glad to hear you like this page. If you can give us a link somewhere – in a forum signature, on a personal or business website, etc., that would be much appreciated. Links help us get more visitors from search engines. 🙂
I certainly enjoy this Weblog and added a link from “My Endeavors” web site (url http://uvsterilizer.wordpress.com/ ) where there is a picture of my Tundra 5.7 DblCab with a somewhat heavy Wildcat 26′ TT (about 8000 lbs “wet”).
I mostly just read (I posted once before), but I REALLY enjoy the posts and answers here and I credit this site for my decision to get this rig and get rid of my lemon Clss C motorhome (which I owned from day one and hardly could pull itself up a 6% grade at more than 35-40)
Carl
Carl – Thanks! and thanks for the link in your blog roll too – much appreciated.
I am interested in buying a used 2001 Toyota Tundra crew cab. My purpose in buying it is to pull a two horse trailer. Can you tell me what the towing capacity is for this vehicle? It will need to pull @ 7000 pounds ( loaded )
Susan – The universal response given by all the trailer people I’ve talked to is that a 2-horse trailer is the biggest you want to go on a 1st gen Tundra. You can add a changing room if you’ve got a 2nd-gen. Since horse trailers use goose necks, they have a higher tongue load and very few half-tons can manage more than a 2 horse.
Jason,
Thanks for the response. 2-horse would be the maximum I would be interested in. Feedback I’ve been getting is that a truck which is smaller risks being pushed downhill with a loaded 2 horse trailer. Guess I’ll have to look for a newer Tundra.
I appreciate the help.
Susan – You bet.
Hi Jason,
Since you are the Tundra ‘guru’ I wanted to see how the run-of-the-mil 5.5″ lift on a Tundra will affect the overall tow performance of the stock Tundra.
I’ve got a 5.7 – 4×4 (2010) crew max. with a lift and oversized tires. Will the extra height affect my towing ability of an 5-6K ultralight travel trailer? The extra weight of the lift and tires doesn’t appear to affect the total weight all that much, but it sure does impact the gas!
I just thought I would get your take on the overall set up and performance. Any insight would be appreciated.
THX
Spencer – Thanks! I appreciate being considered a Tundra guru…I try my best.
I don’t know that a lift directly effects tow capacity aside from the slight increase in weight, but I do think lifted trucks don’t handle as nicely with a big trailer behind them…especially in windy conditions and/or on winding roads.
However, the 5-6k lbs load you’re pulling isn’t enough to stress the truck in most normal conditions, and a 5.5″ lift is probably a drop-bracket kit, which means the center of gravity doesn’t increase as much as it would with a long-travel kit. If it’s a combination of a body lift and a spacer, that won’t effect center of gravity much either.
In other words, I think the weight you’re pulling isn’t enough to make you regret lifting your pickup. I say go for it! 🙂
I recently purchased an ’09 Tundra double cab 4×4, 5.7L SR5 with a tow package. My one ton truck is now needing major repairs and will not be in use. Will the Tundra be able to take the place of my bigger truck and safely haul (and stop) my 2 horse bumper pull trailer loaded with two horses, tack and equipment, weighing appromimately 7,000 lbs?
Thanks!
Roxanne – You shouldn’t have a problem. The max trailer weight is 10k lbs (give or take) and since you’re pulling from the rear hitch the tongue weight won’t exceed the payload rating.
For what it’s worth – I saw a few comments in this forum about putting a Lance 825 camper (or others) on the Tundra. I have an ’07 Tundra with the 5.7 liter and air springs added. I could barely feel the camper. The breaking and acceleration is excellent. The only thing I feel is the typical bob-and-sway you get with a camper, but certainly nothing unsafe. I’ve driven it all over the mountains, and on snow covered roads with no problems (mine is 2WD). The mechanical parts of the truck, such as differential and brakes, are more the size of a normal 3/4 ton truck. This is one solid truck.
Chris – Good to hear – thank you for commenting.
This is a great forum! Glad I found it (Googled “Toyota Tundra Towing Capacity”).
I have a 2008 Toyota Tundra, 5.7L, Double Cab, 2WD, 6 1/2 bed. I don’t have the tow package. I was reading through the thread if anyone else has posted with a similar truck, but didn’t find it. Looks like I’m the only one here with a super base model 🙁 It’s ok…I still love my Tundra.
I looked at the sticker on my door and found this:
GVWR: 6900LB
GAWR – FRT: 3900LB
GAWR – RR: 4100LB
How would I know how much I can tow? I would love to tow a fifth wheel and found some that have a dry weight of around 6600LB. From those numbers above, how would I know how much I can add to the dry weight to stay within limits?
Also so a post about converting their 4-pin tow wire harness to a 7-pin. Mine has a 4-pin…what’s the difference?
Ben T – Thanks! Feel free to link to us somewhere, it helps us get more visitors!
Anyways, on to your question. You need to look for the GCWR # on the sticker and then subtract out your truck’s curb weight (about 4500 lbs with fuel, give or take). Whatever remains is essentially your max towing capacity.
Since you don’t have a factory hitch, you might call a couple of local RV dealers and see who they recommend for install. You can get a class IV/class V load leveling hitch and you should set with a smaller 5th wheel.
Wonderful site… First off. I have a 4wd crewmax tow pack. With 20in wheels, and bfg’s with a leveling kit. I would like to know what you guys think of me pulling an evergreen everlite 31ds with a Honda Forman in the bed. Trailer weighs 5704 empty, weighed it today. Bike is around 480lbs. I have a Reese wd hitch. I plan to set up the tongue wight this week. So, 2 part question, what’s the ideal tongue weight and can I bring my bike along safely? I would also like to state today I ran at 3200 rpm doing around 68mph. Sound normal? Thanks for all your help in advance.
Lupe – First of all, thank you kindly. If you want to share a link to our site somewhere – on a forum, on a “links” page, Facebook, etc., that would be awesome. Links help us pay the bills! 🙂
Second, the max tongue weight is going to depend on the year make and model, but I’m guessing you have an 07+, so that number is about 1500 lbs. The trailer as you describe likely won’t exceed 1200 lbs, and there’s a very good chance it’s less. However, even if it’s at the 1200lb figure, the bike would only raise you to 1700lbs, and that’s no more than a couple-hundred pounds over the max. Considering that all these numbers have a little give in them, considering that you have a good weight-distributing hitch, and considering that you’ll be far under the GCWR, it’s my opinion that you’re good to go.
Thanks for your help! FYI, shared the link… I have a 2010 just turned 30k…. That’s great, I did my math but its always reassuring to have sone insight from others. Thanks again.
I am considering getting into a New 2011 Tundra 2wd 5.7 Double Cab with a tow rating of 10,100. I currently have a f250 Ford. It pulls great but has a horrible ride when it comes to my daily driving. My Toyhauler is a tag behind and has a GVWR of 9900 and a Hitch Weight of 1100.
My concern is the Hitch Weight. I have the sway and weight distribution hitch, but even with the F250 there is significant sag. The 250 does not have airbags. Can the Tundra handle this if I install bags??
Lupe – Awesome! Thank you very much and happy to help.
Dave – Based on the tongue weight, the Tundra should be able to handle it without any modification. However, it could be that the tongue weight is higher than 1,100 lbs…which might explain why the F250 is sagging.
As I’m sure you know, a little sagging is normal – it’s the tongue weight that’s critical. Is it possible to re-measure the tongue weight to verify the 1,100 lbs figure? If it’s over 1500 lbs, the trailer is probably too big for a half-ton.
Dave – BTW, tongue weights range from 10% to 25% of the total weight of a trailer. The more I think about it, the more I believe the 1,100 lbs figure is too low.
Jason,
I have a 08 Tundra 4X4 5.7 crew max SR%. The sticker gives the following: GVWR: 7200, payload: 1515, Tow Capacity: 10,100, and GCWR: 15,500. I’ve got my eye on a Keystone Outback 34′ travel trailer. The specs show the following: Shipping weight:7385, Carrying capacity:1615, and hitch weight:795. The trailer dealer suggested a 1200 equalizer 4 pt sway control and a brake controller. He and several other dealers said I would be fine with this set up. What do you think? My wife and I have three kids and our combined weight is roughly 750 lbs.
I considere to buy a new tundra 4×4 is possible to haul a boat 36ft 16800 pounds, i will need to do any modifications in the car o accesories?
@Tom:
You should be fine with that setup. Your biggest issue is the length. Your weights should all be within spec but that’s a long trailer for a truck with 146″ Wheelbase. I am guessing it’s a 34′ trailer which will translate to the total length being about 38′.
@Hernan:
You need a bigger truck than the Tundra to tow a 16800lb boat. You will want minimum 3/4 ton, you’d feel better having a 1 ton.
Tom – It’s amazing that a 34′ trailer only weighs 7400 lbs and only has a 800 lbs tongue weight, but maybe it was designed for a half-ton to begin with. Based on the trailer specs you have (which I would verify independently) you are A-OK on 2007 and up 5.7 Tundra with the tow package (which is what you’re describing).
Hernan – Caleb is right. If you’re pulling a 17k lbs boat, you need a bigger truck…a much bigger truck. F350 bigger.
Caleb – Thanks for jumping in! 🙂
I have a couple questions I am hoping someone can help with:
Truck:
I have a 2008 Tundra Crewmax, 5.7, with tow package. I bought the truck used, and prior to yesterday never towed anything with it.
Trailer:
Jayco travel trailer, 3555lbs empty, 470 lbs tongue weight, 2 axles, electric brakes (controller installed in vehicle by rv shop)
So, I know I am well withing my limits. Truck is rated to pull max 10100 lbs. Even fully loaded the camper tops out at 4500. Being new to towing though, I have some questions / issues.
Question1:
Pulled out of rv shop yesterday, in tow haul mode. Things seemed fine, but a few miles in I was getting a ‘hot’ smell. Not sure what it was, kind of smelled like oil, or antifreeze. Pulled off highway, checked trailer which was fine – wheels were cool, no signs of trouble. Same on truck – gauges were fine. I did detect some of the smell though when I stuck my head under the truck. Everything looked fine though so I headed out again, another 4 miles to destination and did not notice any more smell. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Does tow haul mode engage the oil or tran cooler? I thought they were in use all the time, but again… newbie.
Question2: They set me up at the rv shop with just a level drawbar and ball, camper hooks up and both vehicles look good from the side. Pretty much level. Towed it about 12 miles with no issues. I knew it was there, but was on the freeway it felt stable even when the big rigs went by. Any reason to think this will change when I add another 800lbs or so of cargo? I’m thinking if anything it might be better (as far as sway goes anyways) So my question is, any reason to consider WDH or Sway control before I make a few trips?
Question3: Toyota Manual says:
“Toyota recommends using “TOW/HAUL” mode only when a heavy trailer or a large heavey load is towed.”
– There is no ‘quantification’ of what is defined as ‘heavy’ is it a load approaching max capacity? Over half way? Can I pull 4000lbs in overdrive?
Thanks all for any input.
Matt – 1. If the oil was changed recently, it could be some oil that dripped onto the valve covers or engine block during fill-up. Or not. Hard to tell from here. 🙂
2. No reason. The truck is rated to pull 10k…an extra 800 lbs isn’t going to do much.
3. I wouldn’t pull 4k lbs in overdrive, but I know a lot of people who do. In fact, I know a lot of people who pull in OD regardless of the weight.
The reason I’m against pulling in OD is that the OD gears aren’t meant for heavy service. The counter-point is that the transmission is smart enough to stay away from OD when the strain is too great, so I think it’s probably fine…but I wouldn’t do it on my own truck.
#1 – No recent maintenance, I am due for new oil in 600 miles or so though. I will see what other services I am due for and have them check everything out just to be safe. Heading out for a trial camping trip in a couple weeks and want to be sure everything is kosher.
#2 – Pretty much what I expected to hear
#3 – Thanks for the input on Tow/Haul I guess it will be up to me to figure this out. I’m thinking flat freeway I can probably pull with OD on as long as I am not getting a lot of gear shifts, probably play it safe and stick to Tow/haul on secondary roads/hills.
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another newbie at towing. I have 2002 Tundra SR5 V8 w/tow pkg. need help knowing how much of a Travel trailer I can handle, well, the truck. door says GVWR 6200, book says trailer+cargo- max 4900. I cannot find orig window sticker at this time.
My truck title says I have a 3/4 ton …is that correct? I do not remember seeing that info any other place.
I do have a ‘lid’ on the bed-fiberglass/lock-down type, weight unknown. I do know it is very heavy to lift open.
I have read all of the asks and answers and they have been helpful…but as an illiterate and female(not that I am unintelligent)and have never even travelled as a passenger in a truck/tt rig, I need information in your plain language.
We have an auction here on Sat on tt’s and went and looked yesterday, most are 29-33 ft, the one wt label I did catch was 5000#. I can go and view them again on Friday, then I hope to have more knowledge on what my 2002 can take.
Also I have never seen on my 02 anything stating tow-haul mode–where?what? help.
Thanks for anything you can give me.
Gena – The title may say 3/4, but the 02 Tundra is definitely a ‘half ton’ – which is a sort of meaningless moniker. The truck can haul more than 1,000 lbs.
Also, the GVWR rating isn’t really pertinent to towing. What you want to look for is the GCWR (gross combined weight rating) and then subtract your truck’s curb weight to determine your max trailer weight.
Your fiberglass tonneau probably weighs in at 150 lbs, so it shouldn’t effect payload capacity much.
If you have an 02′ with a V8 and a tow package, you can pull at least 5,000 lbs. My recollection is that the 02′ can pull about 7,000 lbs with a V8 and a tow package. The tongue weight on a 7,000 lbs trailer should be fine as well, so as long as you don’t go with something too big, you’ll be fine…but my guess is that a 29’+ trailer is too big. I can’t imagine that one would weigh less than 7,000 lbs when it’s full of gear, but maybe I’m all wet.
Finally, the tow-haul mode is a fairly recent feature. Your 02′ doesn’t have a button as far as I know.
I have a 2007 Toyota Crewmax,5.7. The fifth wheel I will be using will be a Reece 16K slider hitch. The trailer I will be towing will be a 2001 Eagle 25foot. I used to have a 2007 Toyota Long Box double door and it pulled just fine. Should I be ok with the crewmax hauling the trailer? Any help would be great or comments.
Thanks
Miker9807
Miker9807 – Since you’ve got a sliding hitch, and since you’ve pulled before, I’d say you’re good to go with the CrewMax. Just be careful backing up into your spot! 🙂
Hi All,
Following up on my 3/31 post, with some updates and new questions.
I dragged my trailer around 45 miles last weekend and it towed fine. No smell like I had before, I’m starting to think that what I smelled previously may have actually been coming from a different vehicle.
Also – was near fully loaded and it was fine with just the drawbar. I may still look into sway control at some point for some added safety, but not sure that I will need it.
I do have one issue that may or may not be related to my Tundra. My trailer lights are screwy. Rear signal lights are not working properly. When I have running lights on, one side is dim, the other is normal (or maybe too bright?) When I apply brakes the dim side lights up, normal (bright) side stays the same. One signal works fine, the other works but is so dim nobody would ever see it. I have posted on a jayco (my trailer is a jayco) site also and the consensus there is too check the grounds on TV and TT. Any input from this group?
Matt – The trailer lights sound like the culprit to me. Glad to hear the truck pulled great and that the smell went away.
this forum is as great as my 07 trd crew max….my question is this.I am getting ready to buy a 2008 forrest river cherokee grey wolf 29BH. it has GVWR of#7615 and hitch weight of #615.my tundra has a GVWR of #7200 for a total GCVWR of#14815.according to my research my tundra has a GCVWR of#16000 which leaves #1185. should i have any trouble towing this up and down Americas open highways and by ways? also does this mean i still have that much weight left available to haul.last question…if hitch weight is #615 does this mean i can still haul wood in the bed of the truck?if so what exactly does this leave me on payload?
Kelly, you should be fine as long as you use a quality WDH. I ahve a very similar setup (07 Crew Max TRD) and I tow a very similar trailer (Palomino Puma 30KFB). I use an Equalizer 4pt WDH setup and it tows beautifully. My Trailer is just a bit over 8000lbs and 800lbs tongue weight. I’ve had absolutely no problems with this setup. Your truck is rated at 10,300 towing capacity and about 1400 payload.
oh great one(jason)……i have one more question.what exactly does the tow/haul mode switch do?is it safe not touse it when on the highway or should it always be used when towing or hauling? i towed a #2000 pop up and didnt realize the tow haul was off after fueling up and it seemed to pull effortlessly. would i only notice the difference the tow/haul makes with my new camper #7615 with hitch weight of #615…
thanks in advance your awesome
kelly
caleb…thank you…not sure but WDH is a weight distribution hitch(right). the camper comes with one and i will be installing an eletric brake also but i am unsure of the brand. the seller said he used a dodge hemi(lol) to pull it and he didnt even feel it there or sag the rear end. always nice to hear from fellow campers/outdoorsmen. we will be checking out longs retreat in southern ohio later this year. looks to be promising…water slides fishin holes fribee golf putt putt etc..the lil ones will go gaga over this place
Correct, WDH = Weight Distribution Hitch. Yes, make sure to have electric brakes hooked up and working correctly as well. You will definitely know it’s behind you, but use common sense and you’ll be just fine with it. If you look on a lot of the RV forums, they will have you believe you can;t tow anything short of a pop-up with anything less than a 3/4 ton. The reality is, a 3/4 ton doesn’t add a whole lot of capacity, just a little bit of wheelbase usually.
Kelly – Tow/Haul is just a different transmission mode that’s tuned for towing. You should definitely use it when you’re pulling your big camper, but for a 2k lbs pop-up I wouldn’t bother. It’s just not that much weight! 🙂
Caleb – Thanks for pitching in – very cool. Sometimes I’m too slow to respond! 🙂
so with the numbers i provided i should be fine wit 2-4 hundred lbs of wood in my truck with trailer in tow?
A couple more questions (I must be approaching my limit for the month)
As I have mentioned previously, I am towing around 4400 lb trailer, between 470 – 650 ls tongue weight.
question 1:
How high can tongue weight go before I have to use WDH? (or do I just have to factor tongue wight into my vehicle cargo weight)
question 2: (actually this is a multi-parter….)
This might be more of a trailer question than a tundra question, but a friend of mine has given me an equalizer brand WDH to use. Its rated for up to 1000 lb tongue and 10000 lb trailer. If my current setup is working, will it be better / safer with WDH? Can I do any harm by adding WDH? I have done some reading that indicates any time your trailer exceeds 50% of vehicle weight you should have WDH. (RV shop told me I was fine as is). I have also read that too stiff a WDH setup can be bad for ride quality and potentially damaging to the trailer.
Kelly – Yes you should be just fine, but anything over 500 lbs in the bed (in addition to towing your trailer) doesn’t leave you any cushion for passengers, gas, etc.
Matt – First of all, there’s no question limit. 🙂
1) I’ve heard people say that a WDH is required once you go over 7500 lbs…which would imply 750-1125 lbs of tongue weight. I’m not aware of any official limit, only I don’t think anyone would advise towing more than 10k without a WDH, so I would say 10k is definitely the max (which would be 1,000 – 1,500 lbs tongue weight).
2) Never heard that a WDH could damage a trailer, and I’ve never heard the 50% of towing vehicle weight rule either (that seems far too low). A WDH is almost always better because it’s more stable, but it’s heavier and more expensive, and frankly isn’t necessary on smaller trailers. I wouldn’t worry about using one pulling anything less than 5k lbs.
Jason,
I did a little more research on the trailer damage potential.
My TT specifically states not to use a WDH system with spring strength over 1000lbs. I spoke to RV dealer about this is they confirmed what I had read online which is that if you stiffen up the link too much between TT and TV you run the risk of potentially bending the A-Frame on the TT.
Since the Equalizer was at the edge of the limit and since I don’t think I need that much help with WDH I picked up a lighter weight (600lb spring bars) WDh system. This worked great on the test run over the weekend. Took out all the sag, and tightened up the driving experience quite a bit.
As always – thanks for all the help here…
Also – since I have no question limits….
I am thinking about potentially storing my TT at my house (won’t make me popular with the neighboors, but that was bound to happen eventually) My concern is my driveway is steep – any concerns about Tundra being able to push 4000 lbs uphill in reverse? I have heard some trannys heat up real fast in reverse. Should I use Low Range?
Matt – Makes sense. If the trailer isn’t built for the hitch, it could be an issue. Thanks for that – I learned something too!
As for backing up hill in reverse, you’re not going to do any damage to the transmission at any weight unless you’re backing up a really, really long driveway (I’m thinking miles) or you’re going achingly slow. The transmission can overheat fast if you’re trying to go 0.5 mph uphill in reverse, but if you back up much the same as you would without a trailer, there’s no appreciable heat build-up.
I’d just try and do the push in one or two goes and take breaks if you’re going more than a few hundred feet. Still, if it’s a normal driveway, I wouldn’t give it a second thought.
As for 4WD LO, I’m only a fan of using it when the conditions demand traction.
I have a 2007 Tundra DBL 5.7 w/tow pack. I towed a 32ft DSBH(dry 8500lbs) from MI to WA the state. Plus a big tool box in the bed. Loaded to go have some fun. We had a blast. The Tundra performed like you would expect. The truck would pick up speed going up the mountains and coming down was a breeze with the slapstick shifting . 6 gears, 4 of which are for engine braking. Here is some advice…Dont listen to anyone who drives a domestic truck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!The Tunrda is all style and power…You better believe when the Tundra diesel comes out we will be the first in line!!!!!:)
Dan – Awesome! Glad to hear things went so well.
I have a 2007 5.7l iforce Tundra Crewmax with a GVWR of 7000lbs. I want to rent a 32 foot jayco bunkhouse g2 32bhds that is listed at around 10000 including water, and cargo. If im reading all this right i should be ok? 7800 loaded weight of truck and approx 2500 lb tongue weight of trailer comes in 1000 lbs short of gross towing weight. Right?
Mike
It has the class 4/5 hitch and i will have to add the brake controller
OOPS, 100lbs under
@Mike Moore
If that trailer has 2500lbs of tongue weight, then you are WAY over your payload. Your trucks payload is 1400lbs. In that payload you have to subtract weight for a full tank of gas, passenger, and any gear or supplies you put in the cab or bed. Reality is, you have about 1000lbs (or less) for the tongue weight of your trailer. Also, that trailer is right about at the max of your truck (truck max is 10,300). So if you are mistaken on the tongue weight of that trailer, then you will still be at the max of your truck and you will absolutely need to have a quality Weight Distribution Hitch. Also as you mentioned a brake controller is a must as well.
IMO, that’s too much trailer for your truck to safely tow it down the road.
Caleb, i’m renting a smaller RV for Memorial Day. Where exactly is the EBS four prong plug in for the controller.Or where cab U fund a good diagram or video of it.
Mike
Mike – I gotta vote with Caleb on this one. If the tongue weight is 25%, then your truck isn’t going to be safe. Hopefully it’s closer to 10-15%.
I have an 04 tundra duble cab with a 4.7 benn pulling a 22 ft travel trailer no problems want to up grade to a 29 ft with a dry weight of 5940 can my truck handle it ok
Anon – Seems pretty big for a half ton. If you calculate the tongue weight of the loaded trailer, then compare it to your truck’s max payload, you’ll have your answer. My guess? No.
I have been following this blog since I originally posted in Sept. of ’10.
Since then I purchased a new 2010 Tundra 5.7 Dbl Cab with a larger/tall shell (I use this for business trips to LA every other month where I fill this to the top of this almost standing room shell with aquarium products; about 800-1100 lbs).
I also purchased at about the same time a Forest River Wildcat TT (NOT a smaller/lower profile light weight version), it is 6600 lbs dry and I estimate 7800 the way we travel with propane, fluids, cargo, etc.
My question #1 is GVWR with this trailer tongue weight added. I have not been able to find an exact tongue weight but my guess is about 800 lbs, and added to the truck weight with full fuel and shell of 5700 lbs (I went to a scale for this), it only leaves 400 lbs for occupants (6900 GVWR). I have not seen any discernable difference in the business trips and with the Curts weight distribution hitch I have measured the front wheels before and after and I only have a change of about 1/2 inch.
Question is is there a little “squish room”, as I estimate our small/thin family only adds 600 more lbs more, but this is still 200 lbs over; Thoughts?
Questions #2 Is a sway bar a good idea? The hitch place (which has an excellent reputation) said likely not, but at most just one, yet others say yes definitely and maybe two at that.
Thanks
Great Website people! I have found just about all the answers to my questions here. Thank you!
Couple questions if I may:
1.) I have a 2007 5.7L Tundra Crew Max. Currently I’m towing my boat which is about 7,200 pounds and I’m averaging about 9 mpg with it. This seems a little low to me but I was wondering if it is normal? It is all interstate driving with a few hills here and there but no mountains. Is there anything I can do to help with the MPG?
2.) We are selling our boat and getting into the Travel Trailers. I still need to weigh my vehicle to figure out how much room I have for tongue weight once I’m loaded with fuel, passengers, etc. Some of the TTs I’m looking at have a hitch weight between 600-1000 pounds. Would it be possible for me to just put my baggage in the rear of the TT to cut down on my payload?
3.) People have been speaking on weight distributing hitch. I take it this is an aftermarket hitch? I currently have the class IV hitch which is rated for 10,000 pounds but not sure if it is weight distributing.
4.) Not exceeding Payload or GCVW, would it be crazy to get a travel trailer that weights 9,000 pounds? I think it would be!
Thanks again for the info. This site has been great!
Ryan
Carl – I think you’re within a safe range. Your estimate of the tongue weight is reasonable, but keep in mind it could be as high as 1200 lbs. For that reason, I like Ryan’s idea of putting your payload in the TT. That moves the weight off the Tundra’s suspension and puts it on the powertrain instead.
As for sway bars, I’d only suggest them for someone with a bed-mounted camper. Air bags – or air springs – might be better (although probably unnecessary).
Ryan – Thanks! In order…
1. Sounds normal. Some people say 8, some say 10.
2. Yes – great idea.
3. Your factory hitch is fine for a travel trailer with the tongue weights you’re talking about. Know lots of people pulling 9-10k with them just fine.
4. I think 9k lbs is the most I would look at. You want to keep a little reserve for gear inside the trailer.
I’ve got a 2006 Tundra double cab 4×4 and I’m looking at a travel trailer that has a dry wieght of 5700lbs. Is my GCWR just the combination of my GVWR and the towing capacity or is that number higher? By the time I load family and gear I know I will be close to that number if not over. What is the absolute limit for my truck? I can’t find the GCWR number anywhere in the manual or on the truck. Thanks for your help.
I think I found the answers I’m looking for but check me on this. My 2006 Toyota Tundra double cab sr5 4×4 has the 4.7 V8 and weighs 4975lbs with a GWVR of 6600lbs and my towing capacity accordding to my owner’s manual says 6700lbs. I found what looks like the GCWR of 12600lbs in my manual. Now if all of that is correct then If I load my truck with 600 pounds of people, that puts my truck at roughly 5600lbs, with the trailer at lets say 5800lbs and 700lbs of gear that would be 6500lbs. Now add that all together and I get 12100lbs. Am I OK on all of this and will that work according to your information? By my figures I haven’t gone over on towing weight or truck weight and total weight, right?
I have a 2008 5.7 Tundra 4wd. I love the truck but have been having problems when trying to tow a trailer that is heavy, but should be within towing specs. The rear tires noticebly depress when the trailer is on and the suspension is compressed some. I have brought this topic up here before and it was suggested I go with heavier duty tires and air bags. I just found in the owners manual that it warns NOT to mix tires of different brands, sizes, construction or tread pattern. I was going to put two on the rear that were E grade tires, but now it looks to get really expensive if I have to put the same tires on the front.
Shane – Your math looks good to me. I’d imagine you’ll have no problems, as your max combined weight rating is higher than your limit.
Also, anecdotally, a 6k lbs trailer isn’t a big problem for a half-ton truck. I’m sure you’ll be happy.
Bill – You definitely don’t want to mix tires. If you go with load range E in back, you’ll want to go with the same up front.
I have a 2008 Tundra Double cab 5.7 L with tow package. I tow a 30 ft TT , dry weight 6500 lbs , when fully loaded the trailer weighs approx 8200 lbs. I normally drive in O/D with tow mode on. When I go up a hill my RPM will peak at 3000 rpm and my speed will avg about 80 km/hr. I was wondering if there will be any harm on the truck by pushing the RPM higher in order to gain speed when driving through steep inclines.
Joseph, I have the same 2007 double cab 5.7, I tow a 32 ft TT with a loaded weight of about 9,800 lbs. I never tow it in O/D because the revs you are talking about also include a lot of shifting. This seams like a lot of unnecessary wear on the transmission. I have found if I tow in 5th, and don’t use the cruise control, I get about the same mileage (8mpg) and am not putting nearly as many shifts on the transmission.
Hey guys, your Tundra with tow package has the Sequential “S”hift gears designed for towing heavy loads up and down hills/mountains. Just slap the shift lever toward you and the computer will select the proper gear. Plus, 4 of the gears are for engine braking. If picking up speed down a 6% grade, just select a lower “S” gear. Generaly 4th gear is selected just prior to going up hill. I towed my 32ft TT DSBH(loaded weighed 9,000 lbs)from MI to WA State with no problems.
Joseph – The issue with towing is transmission temperature more than anything else. I would say that higher RPMs aren’t the problem – it’s the number of shifts. Roman’s comment is worth considering for sure.
Roman – I concur – I’ve found that shutting OD off reduces shifts and doesn’t really effect mileage while towing.
Dan – Great advice.
I have a 2002 Tundra; I have been towing my boat since 2005 & now I can’t slide my ball hitch into the receiver. It slides in about 2″ and then feels like it’s hitting something. I’ve wire brushed the receiver and everything looks normal. I have the same issue with a differnt hitch grill. What am I missing?
David – No idea…sorry.
This is a follow up to my May 30, 2011 at 6:13 pm posting. I wanted to share my initial experience to maybe help other potential towers out there.
We picked up our trailer. It is a 2902SS Rockwood Ultra Lite. it is 34 Feet 5 inches long, weighs 5,700 pounds dry. I initially towed it on the open highway and had my wife follow me in the car to see if there was any trailer sway. She told me it looked good, but I could feel the truck moving just a little from side to side which made me feel a little uneasy. Towing a Travel Trailer versus a Boat is a BIG difference. Our boat weight 7,200 pounds put didn’t move the truck. The real test was passing and letting a semi pass me. When we performed this test the trailer did sway ever so slightly. We will be heading out to Colorado and Yellowstone in two weeks from Ohio and didn’t want to take any chances. I purchased the Equalizer weight distributing hitch with 4 point sway control (there are two out there, a 2 point and a 4 point). I installed it myself and did the test again. WOW, what a difference. The truck and trailer move together like they are on rails. If you have any doubt I would highly recommend a WDH with anti sway control. My truck really didn’t squat too awful much but I was more concerned with the little swaying I could feel. Anyway, if anyone has any questions I would be happy to answer them. There are no chains with this WDH but I don’t necessarily like how I have to adjust the system. On a positive note, there is no drilling into the trailer to setup the brackets, so the system can easily be dismounted and put on another trailer. wish me luck on our big 4,000 mile journey 🙂 The mountains in Colorado should be interesting. I would LOVE to hear back from people who have towed in the mountains out west. I’m average around 8-9 mpg at 65MPH.
Ryan – First, good luck. Second, thanks for sharing. Good to hear a first-hand account on that.
I am going to be pulling an airstream camper with an 08 tundra. I have been told that the exterior lighting on the airstream has to be modified to work with the tundra electrical system. Something about needing a ground from the airstream to the tundra??? The brake lights and turn signals worked breifly so there was current being passed through.. Didn’t know where to start. Electric in the airstream or connections problems between the tundra and airstream.. any adivice would save me some time.. wanting to leave tomorrow for vacations.. Thanks.
I have a 2002 Tundra V8 and just purchased a Rockwood 2702SS RV with the E2 hitch. My question is: Is it best to tow sing the transmission overdrive or not…i have heard conflicting comments on other forms.Thanks.
Tara – No idea – never heard of that before. Not saying it’s incorrect, just never heard of it.
Mike – Toyota’s manual says to stay at 55mph or under and to engage the ‘tow/haul’ mode which locks out overdrive. However, many people regularly exceed the limit and do not engage tow/haul. My suggestion? If your trailer is light (4k lbs or less), don’t worry about it. Otherwise? I’d say engage tow/haul. As for 55mph? I’d only go that speed if I was maxing out.
Hey Mike, nice Camper! I just purchased the Rockwood 2902SS and can share some towing experiences if you like. We almost bought the exact camper that you have but decided with the 2902SS.
I notice when I pull my rig at highway speeds it is very hard to stay in overdrive. If I climb the slightest hill it shifts into 5th gear. I am unsure of the 2002 Tundras and if they are equipped with a 6 speed automatic transmission so your case may be slightly different. When I engage my 2007 5.7L into tow/haul it can still fall into overdrive, but I always just shift it into 5th.
How do you like the e2 with your setup. I do have some questions for you as well if you would like to talk.
Good luck with your TT, you will love it!
Is anyone out there pulling a 5th wheel trailer with their 2011 Tundra 5.7 V8? I have a 25′ 5th wheel with GVWR 9700#. Hitch weight of 1020#. Gross dry weight of 6075#.
I just found this website and enjoy all the comments. I’m sure it’s been covered but I probably missed it. I have an 07 Tundra, 5.7 2-wheel drive. Am pulling an 2011 Durango 1500 5th Wheel by KZ. My weights seemed to be OK all the way through except the rear axle of the truck is over a couple hundred pounds by the way I’m loaded right now. Is there any wiggle room there and are the Tundra rear axle bearings pretty substantial?
@Dean, it’s not the axle bearings you need to be concerned about it’s the rear springs. You may want to get some air bags to help the rear springs. It helped my truck tremendously when I added air bags, I only run them at 5-15psi.
I have a 2002 Tundra with a 4.7 L. engine. The truck has a factory transmission cooler and I am adding a 2000 lb. airbag system for towing my 3500lb. 5th. Wheel. The Truck pull’s my 2000 lb. Bass boat with no problem. But the 5th. wheel is new to me. I believe he truck is rated for pulling up to 7100 lbs. But Im trying to make sure I will not damage my Tundra when towing the 5th wheel.
I have a 2002 Toyota Tundra with a 4.7 L V8, witha factory installed transmission cooler. The Truck is rated to pull up to 6200 lbs; according to the enter door sticker. I just bought a 3500 lb. 5th. wheel. I estimate with the weight of the 5th wheel hitch two passangers, plus equipment the toatl weight is about 4500 lbs. maybe less and not more. I will be adding air bags rated at 2000lb. for towing. I do not want to hurt my truck, I believe the truck will handle the weight of the 5th. wheel with the addition of the airbags but i you have any thing to add I would be open to any of your thoughts. Thank you for your time.
3500 seems light for a fifth wheel – my ‘ultra light’ travel trailer (hybrid style with pop out tent beds) weighs over 3500 with cargo.
What model fifth wheel is that?
Hitch weight is still confusing to me. I have a 2011 Double Cab, 5.7 iForce with SR5 heavy duty towing package. No where can I find anything in manual or on truck that shows a GCVW of 16,000 but I’ll assume that from what I’ve read here. I subtracted an estimated 6,200 for loaded vehicle weight and 8,500 for a loaded Cougar High Country 5er I’m considering which gives me a positive buffer of 1,300. Problem to me is that specs for 5er shows 1,405 hitch weight. My understanding is that that number shouldn’t be used in calculation but the number is higher than any other hitch weight mentioned in this forum. Is that a problem on the rear truck axle? My truck GAWR number for rear axle is 4,100 total and do you think the 1,405 hitch weight will cause the rear load to exceed capacity and damage the truck?
Matt: my 5th wheel is a 1995 Jayco 207 SL.
I could not locate specs on that model – but the lightest fifth wheel jayco currently sells (I believe its the smallest one in the eagle superlite HT series) is 6700+ dry (no cargo) with cargo it maxes out over 10000. I’m pretty new to towing and campers also so I don’t know if the mid 90’s models were smaller and lighter. It just seemed very light to me at 3500lbs.
Dean – I like Caleb’s suggestion. Bags help boost capacity slightly, but they really help improve stability.
Caleb – Good advice – thanks for commenting.
Anon – Adding airbags isn’t supposed to increase tow rating. It has as much to do with the brakes and the stability as it does anything else…if you can upgrade pickups, that would be best. If not, use a lot of caution. If you exceed the max tow rating and somehow become involved in an accident, you face a possible lawsuit that you won’t be able to win.
Donnie – If it’s less than the rated max (both towing and payload) than you’re good. The bags will improve stability, but they’re not technically necessary. Very light 5th wheel, btw…might want to take it over to the scales if you haven’t already.
Matt – Good call.
Charles – You’ve got two numbers you want to watch. The first is “Gross Combined Weight Rating” – GCWR or GVWR. That’s the total weight of both your trailer and your truck. Then, you’ve got a payload rating, which relates to the tongue weight of your trailer. GAWR isn’t important – it has some validity, but in this instance I think it’s an esoteric figure.
The thing to remember about all these weight ratings it that they’re not based on the limits or capacities of any one system. They’re really based on control.
I’m shopping for a 2004-2008 Tundra V8 4.7 or 5.7 L. 2WD double- or crew-cab, in hopes of getting a vehicle that can tow a basic 2-horse bumper-pull trailer (not yet purchased). Lots of used Tundras are advertised with “tow package”, but when I inquire whether these really have the tow package, the parties have said the trucks just have the tow hitch. Is there a list of the other elements, for the different model-years, and how to recognize them? Thanks!
JoAnn C. – You don’t want a bumper pull on anything that big. In fact, I’d be shocked if you found a 2 horse trailer that wasn’t on a gooseneck or a hitch. If you find a Tundra with a factory hitch, you’re good to go (*especially if it’s 07′ or later).
I got a couple questions. first my truck info: 2007 5.7 Iforce v8 crewmax 2wd SR5 with factory large tow mirrows (hoping that’s part of the tow package or sr5 package bc i like them) 6.5 ft bed (that i might later add a camper shell on probably leer brand) i built it used a couple months ago with 48k on it and the dealership put on new pirrelli scorpion tires on it (factory 18inch rims) (1) what can i do to help get better mpg out of it? i was getting 14mph city or highway or interstate by myself and no cargo and using cruise control.. it didn’t matter what i done when i tried to baby it around so i bought a K n N airfilter to replace the factory one (still uses the factory air dam box) ( not the $300 plus one that replaces the whole tube that i might consider getting later on)
and (2) i’m been thinking on buying an enclosed car hauler trailer (maybe 20ft long and 7 or 8 ft tall inside) and wonder what kind of upgrades i might need to add to this monster of a truck. 🙂 *including different tires if there recommended* i currently pull a lawimore (spelling) 20ft open car hauler trailer (500 pounds tongue weight and 2500 pounds total trailer weight *it has a solid metal bed and 2 3500k axles on it*) with either a 54 ford truck or my 72 chevy truck on it with all ease even on big hills.. ( the trucks weigh around 3500-4000 lbs each and i only pull 1 at a time and not both at the same time)
i bought mine after a car club member took me on a trip with his 2010 4×4 tundra going over monteagle mountain going 85 mph pulling his 55 ford truck with my trailer and we still had plenty of pedal left and i didn’t even feel like it was back there *stock hitch with no mods other than having a brake controller for the trailer brakes* ( but we did leave another couple in our group in the dust briefly driving a 2000 model 1500 gmc pulling a enclosed trailer *26 ft long 6ft tall inside*with air shocks and wdh on the truck with a 65 mustang inside the trailer struggling to go 55-60mph) and of course we slowed back down to let them catch up bc we really just wanted to see what his truck would do and it passed my being scepital bc i’ve always believed in chevy’s and my ford i traded in to get the tundra really sucked to put it nice. lol *for the record i will say it was a v6 with a 5 speed and i don’t believe in v6’s in a full size trucks anymore*(i burnt the clutch and pressure plate and hydralic slave cyclinder up trying to pull with it and replaced all that b4 i got rid of it). but the tundra really felt to me what a 3/4 ton truck should do under the same circumstances.
I really want to make sure i do things safely but all i’ve seen on the forum was ppl taking about pulling campers and not enclosed car hauler trailers but i know the same weight numbers do apply. Any and all suggestions or comments or advise is welcomed.
I forgot to mention that the new $65 KnN air filter brought me up to 17 mpg now at best using 89 octane gas from bp and my maintiance light just decided tonight to come on and stay on. guess i’ll be going to my local dealership to find out why it’s on..
Big Mike – In regards to getting better gas mileage, check out: https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2007/07/20/tundra-fuel-economy-7-ways-to-improve-your-tundras-mpg/
In regards to your second question, the car hauler you’ve described, the truck should be fine as-is. However, some people add air springs to the rear leafs just to improve stability.
As far as tires, make sure you’re running on shoes that have a load range ‘E’. It will say it on the sidewall.
Have fun.
I have a 2006 Single Cab Short Bed V6 Tundra that I truly love. Never had a problem. I have 35,000 miles on it. I am wanting to buy a Travel Trailer. The Trailer is small and light, 2900 pounds dry. My hitch was installed by the dealer at the time of purchase. I’m always worrying and research things to the max. Will I have any problems pulling this trailer? Do I need a Trans cooler and sway bar? I know how to tow, I tow a Uhaul 6×12 loaded about 600 miles from our Florida Home to our Georgia home with no problems three or four times a year. Thanks for any help.
Daniel – 2006 or 2008, that kind of travel trailer is no problem for your Tundra. In fact, you could easily pull that trailer with a Tacoma.
So Sorry I had a typo, my Tundra is a 2008 Single Cab Short Bed V6
I have an ’02 Tundra SR5 4WD. Best truck I’ve ever owned. 85k miles and still drives like a new truck! I’ve got a sailboat (28′, 7,500lbs) that I need to transport and wondering if I can do it with my Toy. GVWR is a little over 6,00lbs but I could find no combined vehicle weight listed on door jamb. This isn’t going to be a regular thing; just pull it up to my yard and refit, then back in the water and sell the trailer. Will my Toy handle that kind of weight, or should I just rent an F-350? Thanks.
That is, a little over 6,000lbs GVWR. Sorry for the typo. Great forum!
As an addition, since I made this post I talked to another guy who had two Pearson Tritons up on trailers. This is the same boat I want to trailer and he recommended a 12,000 max GVW for the trailer. (Triton weights are a matter of some discussion as when Pearson was building them, there was no hard and fast displacement that could be applied to all. Construction techniques at the time, I guess) He says he’s delivering one of these boat/trailer combos to CA from GA with an F-250.
So here’s the question (again): Being that my owner’s manual says this truck has a true 3/4 ton hauling capacity (1,540lbs, if memory serves), does this truck have the capacity to tow a 12k# trailer with LESS than 3/4 ton tongue-weight? Or, to put it another way that all my efforts toward gleaning this information from Toyota have been totally unsuccessful in achieving: What are the ACTUAL towing capacities for this truck?? Nobody seems to know, and Toyota doesn’t seem to care.
Thanks.
Hi Paul, remember you also must take into consideration your total payload of the 1,540 capacity. This includes anything that is in your truck, people, fuel, items in the bed of your truck. I pull a 34 foot travel trailer with my Tundy but it is only about 6,700 pounds (it’s an ultra light). I personally would not recommend towing a trailer that is 12,000 pounds. The engine would handle it just fine but I would be more concerned about braking distances. If you were to get pulled over pulling at 12,000 pound trailer or were to get into an accident it would not be good. Just my opinion but I’m sure others will tell you the same thing. How long is the trailer? You would probably want a weight distributing hitch which would also add weight to your total payload. Best of luck to you.
I am considering buying a 2006 Tundra crew cab 2WD. When I asked the salesman if this truck could pull a 7500# fifth wheel, he said “Absolutely! No problem!” Now I, being a cynic at heart, didnt really believe him, and when I tried to research the question, I just got more confused by all the numbers and different opinions. But one opinion did keep popping up…that these trucks should really NOT pull fifth wheels of any size. Can you clear this up for me once and for all? Thank you.
Paul – To find the tow rating, you can:
1. Weigh your truck empty and at or near “E” on the gas tank. Write this number down.
2. Put all your gear in your truck and fill up the gas tank.
3. Weigh the truck with you in it.
4. Add weight of additional passengers, and then this number (gear+gas+passengers) is the total weight of the truck as you’ll be using it.
5. Subtract the empty weight from the total you got in #4, then subtract this new number from the factory payload rating (about 1500lbs). This will tell you how much of your payload is available after accounting for all the extras.
6. Now compare this remainder to the tongue weight of your trailer. Most trailers that long will have a 10-15% tongue weight. I’d guess you’ll be OK here.
7. Now weigh the trailer at full capacity and subtract this from the max tow rating. For an 06′, it’s about 7700 lbs. This is where you’ll hit your limit.
I’m 90% certain that your sailboat+trailer is over the rated towing capacity, but it’s not tremendously over, and if you’re pulling it one time only, I say go for it. Just avoid traffic, keep the speed to 55mph or less, and plan ahead when you want to stop.
Now if you have an 07′ Tundra, you’ve A-OK as Toyota added 2-3k lbs of towing capacity with the 2nd gen model.
I have a 2008 tundra dbl cab v-6 and plan to tow a 24 foot camping trailor dry weight 3300 lbs. do i need a transmission cooler? if so how big?
We are thinking about buying a 2010 Tundra Crewmax SR5. The salesman is telling me that the truck is equipped with “tow package” but I can’t see anywhere on the documentation that this is true. Just because it has a tow hitch and a “tow/haul” button does not necessarily mean it has a tow package, does it? I am more concerned about a transmission cooler, bigger brakes, stuff like that. How can I verify this prior to driving 150 miles to look at this truck? Is there any way of checking the VIN# to the specs?
A transmission cooler should be evident by looking at the bottom of the radiator. Below the main radiator will be a smaller, separate radiator with tubes going back and forth to the transmission. That’s part of the towing package.
I have a 2005, V-8 Tundra, SR-5. In my judgment, this vehicle is so amp-ed up, it was really designed to be a towing cab. For what reason would I need this much power for anything other than towing? I loaded two(2) washer dryer units into the back of my Tundra to take to my rental condos in WV. Hit 90 mph going uphill on a 6% super highway gradient in WV and still had 3-4 inches of gas pedal left. Again, or other than towing, what else was this vehicle really intended for?
After three(3) Toyota trucks, I tend to trust Toyota around their trucks. However, the Toyota Matrix I bought for my daughter was a real let-down.
“Bigger brakes” I don’t know about, but suggest becoming familiar with trailer brakes and trailer brake assistance. You want brake on the trailer, if its a heavy trailer…?… In my judgment, bigger brakes on the Tundra…?… don’t compensate for what should be a trailer brake system.
Regards – John
@Fred The Tundra doesn’t come with larger brakes as part of the towing package. However, the brakes on the Tundra are HUGE compared to most other trucks (yes, 3/4 and 1T included) out there. The biggest thing with the towing package on the Tundra is it comes with 4.30 gears. No other mfg offers gears this low, and it makes a difference. As was mentioned, if you are towing heavy loads (I assume you are since you’re concerned about the towing package) then be sure to get a good brake controller.
I haven’t had a chance to actually lift the hood on the truck yet, so I willi definitely check for the cooler. We are heading to South Dakota this summer pulling a 28′ camper and I want to make sure this will do the job. Currently driving a 2000 F150 w/ the 5.4L V8 and I am looking to upgrade for the trip. I drove a new Crewmax and thought it was out of this world, but can’t swing the cost for new. I found this 2010 online, one of only about 7 within 200 miles on location…right price, just need to verify that tow package exists on it.
I do have a trailer brake to install. I think I will probably just need to verify the wiring harness connection, Ford v. Toyota.
Is there a way verify if this Tundra has the 4.30 gears. Maybe an i.d. plate or something in the VIN?
To say the least, I am not very happy with the answers I am getting from the salesman. I think since I haven’t actually driven to the dealer and showed up in person, he just doesn’t want to put a whole lot of effort into his responses until he knows I’m a serious buyer.
Fred, get the VIN number and call a Toyota Dealership. They will be able to get you the specifics on the truck (gears, tow package, etc). I did this for my Tundra. Look at the Prodigy P2 Brake Controller. It is one of the best brake controllers on the market for your application for pulling a camper. If you plan to pull a boat you can look into the p3. I tow a 34 foot camper with my 07 SR5 5.7. It is about 7,000 pounds though so it is fairly light – but me personally, didn’t want to go much heavier. I would also recommend an Equlizer 4 point hitch for weight distribution and to prevent the trailor from swaying. I am no way affiliated with any of these companies but I do have a 5,200 mile journey with this setup and couldn’t be happier. I spent weeks researching this setup. Good Luck!
Hello Fellow Tundra Owners. I thought I had shared my experiences of our trip out west but looks like I didn’t.
Some quick specs of the rig.
07 Tundra Crewmax 5.7L with tow package
Rockwood 2902SS (34 Tailor – around 7,000 loaded)
Equalizer Weight Distributing Hitch with 4 point sway control
P2 Equalizer.
We left from Columbus,Ohio and traveled to Great Rocky National Park in Colorado, drove up to Wyoming to the Grand Tetons, then up to Yellowstone National Park, and finally made our trip back home. Total miles driven was around 5,200.
Overall I was extremely happy while on the road. I averaged around 65 MPH on the open road and averaged anywhere from 10 to 6 mpg. The worse part of the trip was from Colorado up to the Tetons as we battled about a 40 MPH headwind for 500 miles and it seemed like we were stopping every 100 miles or so for gas. This truck has plenty of get up and go power but I did find myself not using the cruise control. While in tow I never drove the truck in overdrive. In 5th gear I found the truck wanting to shift down into 4th gear a lot so I just didn’t use the cruise and kept it in 5th gear which made the trip a little tiring. This was my biggest concern but if I slowed down a bit it would stay in 5th gear.
The weight distribution system worked great except when experiencing 25-30 mph crosswinds. I’m sure that is pretty typical. The trailer did not move too much on the road but I did feel the movement while inside the cabin of the truck. I’m not sure if this was due to the wind blowing the truck and trailer as one but I really did not suffer from white knuckle syndrome. I just simply would slow down a little and this would remove the wiggle. After all, we are on vacation and we took our time getting to our destinations and campsites.
If you all have any questions please feel free to ask. I still monitor this site from time to time and would be happy to answer anyone’s questions.
Ryan
On my third Toyota truck. While Toyota had some kind of quality relapse over a year ago, my experience with Toyota (((minus quality problems I had with a Toyota Matrix)))is that they’re straight-up and quality obsessive. To me, most all sale folks have seemed to know their stuff in spades, but yes, they’re salesmen.
Pay attention to trailer brakes, here. Over a certain tow weight, without trailer brakes, you may be totally liable in any accident and they reduce the white knuckle syndrome. Slowing down solves many problems,
Regards – John
Fred – I like Ryan’s suggestion to ask your local Toyota dealer to verify the tow package with the VIN. However, I’ll tell you that it would be very, very, very hard to find a 2010 with a tow hitch that didn’t come with the official tow package. Odds are good that if it has the hitch (and if the hitch isn’t obviously after market) it has the tow pkg.
Agree with Jason! If you have the Toyota installed hitch; the mounted plug for trailer lights; and the second, smaller radiator directly below the usual radiator with its pipes going back and forth to your transmission, you have the basic, standard tow package installed and no doubt the properly geared transmission to go with it.
Just count the number of transmission shifts when you hit the gas from a dead stop. If you have a lot of shifts, about 4-5, that’s the proof, to me anyway, I’ve got the mondo-mega-geared towing transmission.
The package is the package!. Toyota has always done these things right, in my experience. Meaning, they built everything in the right way, the first time, and delivered the whole package.
Dealer verified VIN#….Truck has tow package and 4.30 gear ratio.
Drove truck and it is very nice to say the least.
Finishing paperwork and picking up truck tomorrow.
Proud owner of 2010 Tundra Crewmax. Can’t wait to get everything hooked up and see what she’ll do!
Thanks to everyone for all the help!
Fred – Congrats!
I am considering purchasing a 2008 – 2010 Tundra 5.7L with factory installed tow package to pull a 30′ gvwr 8000# travel trailer with a tongue weight of 805# (dry hitch weight) using a weight distribution hitch. total weight in the truck is going to be about 700# (not including a full tank of gas). Am i okay to tow this rig?
bryon – You sound like you’re pushing the envelope to me, but if your tongue weight is only 800lbs and your payload is 700lbs, you should be good enough (within a couple hundred pounds)…but that tongue weight sounds low to me. Typically, long travel trailers are pulled with 3/4 ton trucks.
I have a 2010 Double cab 4×4 5.7 with the tow package. Just bought a camper that is 4200 lbs. Can I tow without any issues and do i need any type of sway bars or weight dist.?
4200lbs isn’t enough to make your Tundra sweat. Go forth and tow proudly, my friend – you are ready.
Hey guys few quick questions. I have read threw about half of the post but not all so if my questions are answered above let me know. First, I have the 2008 4.0L V6 2wd SR5 with no hitch installed. I am looking for one to be installed and want to know the ones offered are universal for the ’07 – ’10 years? And second, what hitch set up are some of you using (factory or aftermarket)? And lastly, what are the thought of the Class III Curt model 31398? I only plan to tow a 14 to 16 foot Bayliner type boat and maybe a 12 foot toy box but other than that that would be it. Thoughts, ideas, recommendations?
i read most posts. great feedback. i think i know the answer to my question but… i have a tt that loaded will at most weigh 7000lbs. it has the nice beefy hitch and tongue. it will get pulled 2-5 times a year. do i purchase an 06 for better mileage and ease of driving? or get an 08 and never worry about it?
devin – Gas mileage isn’t going to be better on the gen 1 Tundra, at least when you’re towing. I say get the one that’s the best deal – they’re both solid.
This is a great set of posts. My question: when I had a brake controller installed in the cab of my 2008 Tundra, they put it where it hits my husband in the shin (I’m OK, he rarely drives the truck but when he finally did he was quite unhappy). Is that normal placement? It is located on the bottom of the dash, directly above the gas pedal, but with the deep dash it is annoying.
Jeri – Yes that’s a typical mounting point, only I’m not sure why. It’s not really easy to see or adjust in that position…
Does anyone know if the transmission needs to be serviced? I can’t seem to find any info about this in the owners manual. I have a 08 Tundra 5.7 double cab, getting ready to tow our toyhauler up to the Smokey Mountains and wanted to get the fluid changed as a precaution. Took it to a local shop and they told me the transmission was not servicable. Is this correct? Thanks in advance.
Anyone?
That’s the most ridiculous thing ever. Toyota is a great company but I can promise they haven’t found an indestructible fluid. My advice, find a reputable shop and have them do it, it sounds like you were working with some morons.
I just had my transmission services, I think what I remember is that the filter is not serviceable – its only a fluid flush & change.
I had mine done at dealer.
Yes, it needs to be serviced. If you tow or drive in stop and go traffic, Toyota recommends replacing the fluid every 60k.
I have a 2006 Tundra Dbl cab 4.7 L V8 I want to buy a 25ft Toyhauler. 2006 Rage’n Xtra-lite. I have two Quads that will fit.
I called the Dealer they said Max towing is 6800 lbs.
The UVW-5901 empty.
I have been to Four RV dealers and some said it was okay some said it would be close just don’t fill it with water until I get to my camping ground.
I read another post saying.
For an 06′, it’s about 7700 lbs. This is where I will hit my limit.
I was not sure if I should do some after market parts (Banks exhaust system’s 3″) for more power, better fuel.
11 more hpand 11 more lb-ft of torque, I will spend the money if I need too but just want to tow my Toy hauler, I have the factory towing kit already.
I was also looking for a chip if that would give me more power for towing.
Jake –
Do you have 4 or 2 wheel drive? From toyota manuals for 2006 double cab: (http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/home)
Double cab
models
4.7 L V8
(2UZ−FE) engine
Two−wheel drive models
Without towing package 2358 (5200)
With towing package 3175 (7000)
Four−wheel drive models
Without towing package 2222 (4900)
With towing package 3039 (6700)
It looks like either way you are under that I read your post right (5901 is dry weight). But Through in your toys and gear and I would think you will exceed your capacity pretty quickly.
5900 + 1000 in quads exceeds 4wd capacity
and very little additional gear will put you over your 2wd capacity.
I’ll defer to others here regarding mods that might git this done for you, I am admittedly very conservative when it comes to towing and try to stay well within my vehicles capacity. but my concern with power mods for your vehicle to tow more is that you are only addressing one part of the problem. You also have to be able to support the weight and most importantly stop the weight.
I have a 2 wheel drive with the towing package.
I was told just add some air bags for a few hundred to keep it level.
Brake asst to help with braking.
I was also told to look into the Banks (Banks exhaust system’s 3″) for more 11 more lb-ft of torque.
First, let me say how thrilled I am to have found this site. I have read through many of the posts and believe I have found answers to most of my questions. However, to sure, I wanted to post my questions to all the experts out there.
I am looking to buy a 2012 Tundra Crewmax 4×4 Limited with the 5.7L V-8. I plan to use this vehicle to tow a 24′ (32′ including V-nose and hitch) modified racecar trailer. The trailer is roughly 7,500 – 8,000 lbs with a tongue weight of around 800 lbs. The trailer has an electric braking system and I will be installing a brake controller to help with braking. I plan to tow this setup in and around the Asheville, NC area a couple of times a day, a few days a week. Can the Tundra I mention above handle this setup? Do I need any additional equipment to handle this setup? Is there any additional information you can provide?
Thanks!
BBall Fan – You didn’t get an immediate response because the answer is in the article as well as the comments above.
In short, the answer to your question is yes. The tongue weight is less than the payload rating, and the gross trailer weight is less than the max. Based on the comments from other Tundra owners, you will be happy with the performance of the stock truck.
Thanks Jason. I read through the posts and felt the vehicle was capable and mentioned it in the original post, but wanted to be 100% sure as I didn’t recall reading any posts that were pulling the type of trailer I was pulling (mostly boats or RV trailers).
Do you have any information as to whether adding the Platinum Package with 20″ tires will have much negative impact on towing vs the stock 18’s?
Thanks!
Bball, as long as you don’t exceed your total payload capacity of 1540 you should be fine. This includes persons, fuel, tongue weight, and anything else you are hauling in your truck. I wouldn’t be concerned about the weight of your trailer but me personally wouldn’t want to go much higher than that with my Tundra. Just my opinion. I did a 5,100 round trip with my Tundra and 34 foot trailer. Tundra did great!
Thanks Ryan! Which Tundra do you have?
I purcahses a used 2007 Tundra Crewcab TRD with tow package. Not sure if it has Class IV or V installed. Anyway my question is: I have a 34 foot TT (7800 lbs) that I want to tow with this truck. I normally tow the TT with my Ford Excursion (diesel) but wanted the option if need be. This weekend I am traveling approx. 4 hrs and wanted to try the Tundra out. I had a brake controller put in and will use my 4 point hitch/sway bar for weight distribution (which I use with my Exursion). Will this Tundra be able to handle this TT and pull it without problems.
@Matthew
It should work fine. I too have a 2007 Crew Max TRD and I tow my 35 foot TT (just a little under 10K lbs when loaded) with mine and it tows just fine. I have a brake controller and an Equalizer 4pt WD hitch. The only other thing I’ve done is I added some airbags to keep it level. Although I usually only run my airbags at 5-10psi…so hardly anything at all.
Caleb-
Thanks for the info. I am guessing it has a class IV or V hitch that came with it. From everything I read that seems to be the standard equipment. Im gonna go for it and see how it works out. The truck does not have tow mirrors on it so Im not sure how hard it will be to see around the trailer. Have you had any problems with that or did you change mirrors or add tow mirrors to yours
Yes, I too have the factory hitch, not sure if it’s a IV or V. My truck actually came with the Tow mirrors. They help a ton, but when I first got the truck, I didn’t realize the mirrors extended out (I know, duh!!!) and so I towed a couple times with them retracted. Still was fine but having that little extra viewing angle is sure nice.
Yes.
Caleb –
that last post was from me.. Forgot to include name
Thanks
Sorry for so many questions below, but I am about to pull the trigger on a new Tundra CrewMax and in doing some final research came across the following and looking to you experts out there for assistance.
Does anyone have any information as to whether adding the Platinum Package with 20″ tires will have much negative impact on towing vs the stock 18′s?
Also, I found these specs on a Toyota dealers website. Can anyone provide clarification on these numbers as these limits go against almost everything I’ve read on this blog regarding the Tundra’s towing abilities including Toyota’s.
Dead Weight Hitch – Max Trailer Wt. (lbs): 5000
Dead Weight Hitch – Max Tongue Wt. (lbs): 500
Thanks!
Doug
Doug – No problem.
Adding 18’s or 20’s has no impact on tow capacity.
The “dead weight hitch” refers to a ball mounted on the bumper…that’s why the numbers are so much lower. If you’re using the integrated hitch, the ratings are much higher.
Great, thanks Jason! I thought something seemed off there and was getting a bit concerned.
Do you happen to know if the CrewMax hitch is a type IV or V? I can’t find this anywhere on Toyota’s site.
So there’s no difference b/t the 18’s and 20’s for towing?
Thanks,
Doug
Doug – No difference between 18’s and 20’s. The weight is probably a bit different, only it can’t be much more than 20 lbs combined all the way around.
As for class IV or V, it’s both…IV/V is a common rating.
I have purchased a 35′ travel trailer and was wondering if anyone has any knowledge of a product called Hitch Helper by a company called ACC Towing. I would like to tow the camper with a Sportster in the bed of the truck and a touring bike on the Hitch Helper. Sportster is approx 500lbs, touring bike 800lbs and camper 6000lbs. Hitch Helper can carry a 1000lbs bike. Thanks in advance for the input.
I think it’ll be too much having the sportster in the bed. IIRC, the payload is something like 1500lbs. So adding the tongue weight of the trailer (minimum 600lbs…possibly as high as 900lbs, usually 10%-15% of your trailer) with passenger weight (two adults, maybe 350lbs maybe more if there are more passengers), fuel weight 8lbs per gallon (26 gallon tank, 210lbs) plus any misc gear in the truck, you’re getting a bit too close to your payload even without the bike in the bed. Not to mention, the tailgates on the Tundras are notorious for bending with any kind of load on them (many reports are from guys loading golf carts and/or ATVs…both of which as as light or lighter than a sportster. I wouldn’t put the bed in the bike.
On another note, once you get the bike loaded on the back of the trailer, you will want to make sure the tongue weight isn’t skewed too much as that will adversely affect the way your trailer tows as well. If you remove that tongue weight the trailer was designed with, it will no longer be stable towing down the road.
Last point, are you sure your trailer is only 6000lbs? Is that mfg spec or have you weighed it. A 35′ trailer is a large trailer (same thing as I have) and even the super lites in that weight range didn’t weight that little unloaded. There were a few that had specs of that from the mfgs, but add any gear and you’re going to be well over that. Plus, mfg specs are usually a ways off actual unloaded weight.
One last thing to mention, if you do have a super lite trailer, usually those frames aren’t designed to have any kind of a hitch mounted to them. Something to consider as well. When I bought my trailer, my dealer told me they won’t even add a hitch to the super lites.
The Hitch helper goes in the reciever on the Tundra and the camper hooks to that. It is rated for a 1000lb bike and a 15000lb trailer. It has two wheels under it and I was thinking that those two wheels would take the tongue weight therefore I would be able to carry the smaller bike in the truck. I have used ramps to load several bikes via the tailgate without a problem. Should I not be doing that? By the way, 07 Tundra short bed TRD 5.7 4×4.
That’s an interesting concept. I’ve never seen that before, kinda cool. The one problem I can see is in order to use that hitch helper, or tow your trailer, your tailgate will need to be up. Can you fit your Sportster in your bed with the tailgate up?
I was thinking that I would remove the tailgate. The back tire of the sporster will sit on the bed of the truck and the little bit that would extend beyond would do no harm. For anyone interested, I emailed ACC Towing and they said that the $3500 model would take all of the weight of a 1000lb motorcycle and 70% of the tounge weight of the trailer. I believe it adds 2 feet to the length and allows for easier backing as it reduces the risk of jackknifing.
From your earlier comment I get the feeling that I should not be loading bikes by a ramp on the tailgate??
Cool! I think I get it now. That’s a different story…the bike isn’t in the trunk, it’s in the hitch helper. Should be OK if the other numbers are all correct.
Jim – Can you post a link to the item? I’ll check it out. Also, Caleb’s comments are spot on. Bike + trailer tongue weight = too much (probably). The tongue weight sounds low to me too.
I tried to post a picture of the hitch helper but no luck. You can see a picture of it at acctowing.com
I would like to add tow mirrors to my 2010 Tundra Crewmax.
I see several on ebay for around $250/pair. The dealer wants $470/pair (oem).
I took off my passenger side mirror off last night to check the power hook up and it looks pretty standard across the board on what I seen on ebay.
Can anyone suggest an aftermarket mirror or should I go with the dealer?
Thanks.
Fred,
Have you tried Autoanything.com? We find a lot of stuff on that site. I did a quick search and found a few options. http://www.autoanything.com/mi.....0A0A0.aspx
-Tim
I’d suggest trying parts.olathetoyota.com or trdsparks.com and see what kind of deal you can get on OEM parts. They both discount OEM parts pretty aggressively.
Search for “Tundra Tow Mirrors” on Amazon.com. They are 49.99 free shipping. I have them on my Tundra and they work Great! No issues. I thought about OEM tow mirrors too until I saw the price.
Good tip – thanks!
i have a question … i have a 2010 Tundra TRD dbl cab with the towing package … i just went to have a trailer brake assist installed and they said that there should be an adapter plug in the glove box to plug in to the brake assist … we cannot find it … is this adapter supposed to be in the glove box????
Look under dash on left above foot rest. Clip is in there.
does anyone know what size the factory installed hitch is on a 2007 double cab SR5 w/5.7L engine? Class IV? Class V?
From the article “Most 5.7 Tundras come with a class IV/V hitch”
The hitch is both. Don’t ask my why you can have a hitch that’s both classes, but you can.
Quick question. I am considering purchasing aftermarket wheels. In the description it says that they are off road, heavy duty rims. I am somewhat hesitant though, considering that the max load per rim is only 2200 lbs. A ways up in the thread I recall “Dean” stating he made a trip to the scale and his rear wheels were seeing above 5000 lbs. Considering that I might want to pull a 5th wheel at some point, I might want to rethink my wheel purchase. Also, could someone explain how Dean is okay putting down 8900 lbs. to his truck axles. It doesn’t seem like a problem, but it would be over the trucks GVWR, not to mention over the rating for my rim choice. 2200 lbs. doesn’t seem like much.
Doug – A very interesting point about wheel rating, but I look at it like this. Tundra curb weight? 4,500 lbs, give or take. Max payload rating? 1600lbs. Total maximum allowable weight? 6,100 lbs, give or take. 4×2,200 = 8,800, which is more than 6,100, which means we’re good.
Now what about a situation where the rear wheels are sharing 5,000 lbs? First, I’d guess that we’re at or over the allowable maximum weight…if the rear are getting 5,000, the front are getting at least 2100 lbs (assuming 70/30 distribution), which puts the total truck weight about 1,000 over. Second, 5,000 isn’t much more than the 4,400 the wheels are rated for. I’d say it’s OK in limited doses.
Therefore, I wouldn’t worry as much about wheel weight ratings (which are almost certainly under-estimated by wheel manufacturers) as I would about total payload.
I am looking at buying an older Tundra (manual). I confused on all this gross weight. I bought a trailer thinking my Tacoma would pull it. We had a little trouble getting up the hill. My trailer weights 5400 at full weight. My question is would a Tundra have a problem pulling my trailer. Thanks for any info 🙂
Margarita – If it’s a V8, it should be fine…but you need to do the math. It’s your responsibility to the rest of the people on the road. 🙂
I have 2007 dbl cab with 5.7 and tow package. I am thinking of buying tt with tongue weight of 865 and dry wt of 6700. Gross vehicle weight of 10,000. Will have brake assist and weight distribution hitch. Will I be alright with this setup?
Hello,
My current set up consists of the following:
2007 Tundra crewmax 4×4 Trd, I am towing a 2013 kz spree 322 BHS, the dry hitch weight of the trailer is 720 lbs, unloaded the trailer weighs in at 7200 lbs, with a GVWR of 8300 lbs. I have the equalizer weight distribution/anti sway system.
The truck performs great, although I am probably pushing the limits on my payload capacity. Wife and I, three kids in the back and 46 gallons of fuel. (Transfer flow tank) plus misc items in the bed of the truck. I figure I am right at my limit. This summer I will be taking my first long trip with the bigger trailer, I used to tow a 28” TT that weighed 5000 lbs I would get about 9-10 mpg, with the larger trailer I’m down to 7-8. I’m considering a possible upgrade to a diesel. We’ll be traveling 1000 miles during one trip. This trip will be the big test for the Tundra.
2011 Tundra Crewmax
We purchased a Jayco 28BHS last fall and took it out for one trip only so far. I am almost obsessed with doing my weight calculations and staying within them. If you have ever had your trailer start driving your truck, you develop an immediate respect for the ratings set by the manufacturer. I was less than impressed on how much the tongue weight of 750 lbs drops the rear of the Tundra. Air bags fixed that quite nicely. I had a Magnaflow Cat back large single on the truck and immediately took it off upon my return home. The droning was incredible around 65-70 MPH. I have had Flowmaster on every vehicle I have owned prior and never had such a menacing droning before. Has anybody found a good performance cat back system for the 5.7 Tundra that doesn’t kill the comfort level inside the cab when towing big loads.
I believe I ready every post on this thread before I purchased the TT that my wife and I really wanted. Previous Tundra was a 2006 Double Cab with 4.7L V8. The first TT that we thought we might purchase was a 21′ with a dry weight of 3800 pounds. Four weeks, six rv lots, and one RV show later we *ahem* “upgraded” to a 30′ TT with a dry weight of 5800 pounds. Mathematically, the 2006 would have pulled it. But, in the interest of safety and updating my Tundra, I traded the beloved 2006 in for a 2010 5.7L Crewmax, literally one day before we were scheduled to take delivery on the travel trailer.
First trip was from the dealer to the storage facility, about 35 miles, with a heavy tailwind. The RV dealer put brake assist, weight distribution hitch, and anti-sway on my setup while we were doing the “walk through”. The drive was smooth even in the heavy wind.
Second trip was from the storage lot to our house to “load up”, then to a state park about 30 miles north. This time I am fighting 15 knot winds head on. The ride was a bit bumpy because of the wind, and I had the fortune of being able to stay off the interstate (high winds, construction, new-ish truck and trailer was already enough for my nerves). Arrived safe and sound, camped, then returned home using the interstate and was able to maintain 65 mph with no issues.
Very happy with the 5.7L engine, very glad I had weight distribution and anti-sway, and looking forward to another trip in two weeks.
Troy,
That’s awesome!
-Tim
I am looking to getting a tundra 5.7 4×4 I need a good strong truck that I can use for everyday plus pull a trailer of max weight of 8,500 pounds horse trailer the 8,500 is the total weight of the crew, horses and tac. What I don’t want to do is buy a truck then have to go and add a bunch of stuff to it to pull my weight so will the tundra do the job?
I purchased my first Tundra double cab, a 2008 last week and I love it. It appears to have a tow package, but I can’t find a tow haul switch where the owners manual shows it. Am I missing something or does this truck not have one? If it does not have one, how do I tow with the transmission out of overdrive. Thank you for your help.
I have a 2003 Tundra Acess Cab SR5, 4.7 V8, with a tow package (I checked–it does have transmission cooling) and 130K miles. I just bought a 6×10 single axle enclosed V-nose trailer to use around town, but now have to move a daughter to California (we live in Ohio) at the end of June. Never done this before–does anyone have any suggestions as to this trip? Can’t afford movers, so it is basically out there and back. This trailer does not have brakes, so I wonder if I should go the southern route to LA rather than risk the mountains. The trailer weighs only 1200 pounds, and the furniture can’t be another 1,000 pounds. I heard going the southern route is hard on the trucks due to heat. Other than a full service of the truck before the trip, any suggestions as to preventive maintenance? Don’t think I need air bags, but maybe new tires on the back. Other than a cooler, the truck bed will be empty. Do I need special tires, or just the regular ones? I am still a little confused as to Overdrive, reg vs premium gas, windstorms, etc. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Great information on this site. Thanks.
Doug,
As you probably already know, the keys to this trip would be making sure your load is secured, driving at a moderate speed limit (55mph) and taking your time. You’re load isn’t that big and is well below your towing capacity. This means you shouldn’t have any real concerns about braking power or over heating. In a nut shell, your truck was designed to do this job and then some.
You’re right to do the preventive maintenance before leaving as well as having the tires checked. I wouldn’t necessarily get new tires for just this trip, but if you are close you might consider. Most of the “special” tires people buy are for long-term towing or RV-towing. They handle the larger load and have better rolling resitance. Yet, you are well below your towing capacity, so it would be overkill.
As far as mountains versus desert, yes, not having brakes will make the mountains more “interesting.” But, I live in Denver and I have seen many, many loads like yours go through the mountains easily. The best way to do this is learn to do engine braking (downshifting to lower gears to let the engine slow you down) and periodically stopping to let the brakes as well as visually inspecting them. These tactics will help you get through the mountains a LOT easier and it is what the locals do. The desert driving will yes, cause your truck to run hotter especially with the sun reflecting off the asphalt. This really just means that you will need to keep a closer eye on your temperature gauge and radiator fluid. I have heard in some extreme cases, premature brake wear and tear and even failure from the extreme heat. Yet, if you (like above) stop periodically and let them cool, you shouldn’t have any worries. Plus, most the premature wear is caused by city driving which you won’t be doing a lot of (I would guess).
Now the overdrive feature in an automatic is something you will need to play around with. Overdrive is normally always “on” and controls the transmission to increase fuel efficiency by running lower torque and RPMs. However, when towing something you might want to run a higher torque and RPMs to maintain your towing speed or when going up a steep incline (see: Mountain). Frankly, the size of your load shouldn’t matter to much, but if you find your truck struggling, you might want to turn it off and see how it performs.
The regular gas vs. premium is a long, long debate. I’ll give you a link and let you decide. Really, the best way to decide, is to fill up with one or the other and decide for yourself. https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2007/08/02/toyota-tundra-tips-premium-gas-vs-regular/
Not sure what you mean about windstorms or than you might have a concern hitting them. If you do, it is probably best to pull off the road and wait for them to pass. It really comes down to what direction the wind is blowing (into you or on the side) and making sure you load is really secure. If it is coming from the side, you might get a bad gust that can cause some problems. And if it is coming into you, your miles per gallon is going to tank. But, if it is coming from behind, sit back and relax, the wind will help propel you forward and your MPG will be out of this world!!
All in all, most of the other recommendations for towing are based on a larger load (see: RV) and you shouldn’t need them like air bags and such.
Hope that helps.
-Tim
Thank you very much for the information. It is greatly appreciated. We have decided to go the northern route to enjoy the mountains.
Thanks again.
Regards,
Doug
Doug,
You’re welcome. The mountains are beautiful this time of year and your truck should do just fine. Have a safe trip!
-Tim
I am looking to use my 2013 Toyota tundra rock warrior limited edition with the towing can I put in a 5th wheel and will it handle well and how much weight could I pull
James,
It depends. First, you will need to check your owners manual for all the towing information you will need including how to determine your payload and maximum towing capacity. Next, you will also need the manual for your 5th wheel to determine how heavy it is. Once you know all the towing numbers, then you can figure out if the truck can pull it.
The simple truth is that the closer to maximum weight you get the more difficult a tow it will be. Not impossible, but not as easy as say towing a small dingy boat.
-Tim
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We’ve just purchased an ’07 Tundra Double Cab 4.7 with the towing package. We are new to towing anything. We hooked up our trailer, which has a dry weight of 2300, GVWR of 2800, tongue weight of 420.
We drove to a parking lot and practiced backing up, etc. We noticed that whenever we went over a bump, even something like the variations in a normal intersection, the truck would “gallop” as the trailer bounced down on the hitch and went back up. Also, the hitch seemed to get a lot lower when we attached the trailer. It seems like a trailer this light should be really easy for a truck like this but maybe not? Or, did the previous owner wear the thing out? 🙂 Any ideas?
Blissing,
I would think you are experiencing issues related to a “light” load. Normally, a lighter load will have more movement than a heavier load. In short, the heavier load stabilizes the towing experience while a light load has more movement.
Also, the truck should lower when you attach any weight to it. It is simply that you are adding weight to the extreme rear of the truck and it will react accordingly.
-Tim
Thanks for your response! Should we put more weight in the front of the trailer to make the tongue weight heavier? Or into the truck bed?
The best load is a even load. So if you have all the weight in the back of the trailer, it is going to feel like the hitch will jump. If you have all the weight in the front, the back may feel like it is sliding around more.
I wouldn’t worry too much about the bed except if you have a heavy trailer and empty bed, your ride quality won’t be great. Play around with it is my best advice.
-Tim
Just bought a 0 Tundra with < 65000 miles on it. I love it. I’m about to install a 7 Pin connector (along with the brake controller) to tow a small camper. It came stock with the 4 pin. Has anyone installed that conversion kit (etrailer.com) where you tap into the harness? I’ll roll under the truck tonight but I’m not sure my truck came pre-wired for a 7 pin. Do all Tundras come pre-wired for 7 pin?
Just bought a 07 Tundra with < 65000 miles on it. I love it. I’m about to install a 7 Pin connector (along with the brake controller) to tow a small camper. It came stock with the 4 pin. Has anyone installed that conversion kit (etrailer.com) where you tap into the harness? I’ll roll under the truck tonight but I’m not sure my truck came pre-wired for a 7 pin. Do all Tundras come pre-wired for 7 pin?
Mark,
Not sure. What did you find out?
-Tim
Hello, I have a 2012 Tundra Double Cab TRD with towing package. I was looking at getting a Forest River Sandstorm 233slc Toy Hauler. The dry weight is 6150lbs, and (from reading) after propane, batteries, etc, it’s at 6700lbs. Then adding in 100 gallons (800lbs) water and 35 gallons of fuel (probably would only ever really put in 10 gallons), add another 200lbs. So it would be fully loaded at 7700lbs, add in dirt bike and some food, say 1000lbs (over estimate). The listed tongue weight is 825lbs, the trailer comes with a weight distribution hitch as well. I was wondering if this is a reasonable thing to haul with this truck?
Thanks, Jason
I forgot to mention that my truck has the 5.7L engine.
-Jason
Jason,
That load should be fine. I would just double check two things: your payload capacity and make sure the tow weight is spread out evenly.
-Tim
Update on my 2012 5.7L Tundra, hauling a 23′ Sandstorm Toy hauler. So with the dry weight of 6200lbs and filled with 105 gals of fresh water and maybe 1500 gear (dirt bikes, food, supplies, etc), the Tundra hauls it fine with no issues. I have airbags but with the weight distribution hitch, they don’t really need to be inflated. I drove up the 371 from Temecula CA up into Anza CA (steep grade) with no issues at all (tow haul mode in “S”). All in all I’m really happy with the Tundra and Sandstorm combo (was a bit scared at hauling at first)! I feel much more confident in this setup after hauling it a few times now.
-Jason
I’ve read everything here, and I think I already know the answer, but here goes anyway…
My wife and I have put a non-refundable deposit on a 2007 Jayco Octane 24 foot toy hauler, thinking it was definitely 1/2 ton towable.
The dry weight of the hauler is 5490 (very do-able), and the GVWR is 9500 (I don’t see it ever going over 8000).
My concern is with the dry hitch weight. It’s listed as 1085 lbs….
I’m driving a 2008 5.7liter 4×4 TRD with the factory installed tow package and a brake controller.
I have a payload of 1580 lbs, minus the 1085 DRY hitch weight, that only leaves me 495 lbs for 2 adults, one nine year old boy, 2 golden retrievers, gas, propane tanks on the tongue, battery, WD hitch, generator, water, etc etc etc…
I installed a set of firestone airbags, thinking that would help, but I’m really not liking the look of the math here…
We were planning on picking up the trailer next week and heading out to the BC interior for 3 weeks of “travel trailering”. After reading all of these posts, I’m kind of second guessing our decision to tow this hauler.
Is anyone still reading this thread, and are there any comments out there?
I’m definitely under the tow capacity and the combined weight, it’s the GVWR that I’m getting kind of anxious about.
Bill
Hey Bill,
First, yes we still read this blog post and we respond! 🙂
And yes, you are probably pushing the payload capacity. I won’t worry too much though with your airbags. While, I can’t tell you directly that you will have ZERO problems, I do know many people who exceed the payload capacity quite a bit without issues. Try checking out an RV forum, you will find Tundra owners like I have who, let’s just say, “push the limit.”
Best of luck, let us know how it goes.
-Tim
Wow, that was a really fast reply, Tim! Thanks!!
I’m thinking my anxiety is causing me to back out of the deal and cut my losses…
I don’t really want to be held liable for running around in an overloaded truck. The way I figure it, I could be as much as 400-500 lbs over the GVWR when all is said and done.
What really puzzles me is how Toyota comes up with the numbers they do! In order to be able to pull the full 10,300 lbs and stay under the 16,000 lb GCWR, the driver must be under 180 lbs, and the fuel tank needs to be empty!! What kind of imaginary world is this??
I don’t get it…
Bill O,
Sorry, I just saw this. Again, I think you are fine and I wouldn’t sweat it. The truck is seriously overbuilt and should handle the load.
The towing and payload numbers are really common across the industry. In fact, most of the other “guys” have a single 150lb driver as there payload numbers. The truth is Toyota is working on increasing payload capacity like everyone is, but it comes at a cost of fuel economy and making a truck for a broad range of buyers.
Also, unless you over-tow on a consistent basis, I can’t see Toyota voiding the entire warranty. I mean are they going to weigh your truck before you tow? Nah, what they don’t know won’t hurt them, I say. 🙂
-Tim
Bill O;
I have a 2010 Tundra with a 2007 Forest River Wildcat heavy trailer, not a light weight model.
The trailer is about 6600 dry and about 8000-8200 with what we carry.
The tongue weight is about 800 lbs.
We do not have air bags, but we do have a very good Curtis WD hitch and we handle the load quite well.
In fact, I measure every trip with a yard stick after hitching and have the front and rear tires nearly equal at about 37” at the top.
I know the numbers are pushing it, but I have seen other models of ½ tons trucks on the road, even with WD hitches that are clearly sitting back on their rear wheels, while our Tundra does not.
I also know our local Lance Truck Camper dealer claims that their 1500 lb dry weight camper can be placed on the back of a Tundra with no modifications other than air bags.
This certainly seems to be pushing it when passengers, cargo, gas are added, but he claims that Lance will back this legally in writing.
My point is you should be well under this and it is also my understanding that the Tundra is more of a hybrid ½ ton having a true capacity more than most ½ tons (around 2000 GVWR)
I also place as much cargo in the trailer as possible from canned goods to water, etc and then as much over the wheels as possible so as to not add more to the tongue weight
Thanks Carl!
I’ve talked directly to Toyota, and the general consensus is, if I’ve got a good WD hitch, it shouldn’t even be an issue!
Heading out to BC next week! Really looking forward to it!
Bill
’08 Tundra Doublecab 5.7i c/w Tow Package
’07 Jayco Octane 24ZX Toybox
2 Beautiful Golden Retrievers (Nugget and Lucy)
I have an 08, Crewmax 2WD with tow package. We pull a 2010 Jayco Eagle 322 FKS travel trailer (7860 pounds dry). I use a Reese stabilizing/equalizing hitch that seems to work very well. The Tundra seems to pull the trailer very well and I average a little over 11 mpg at about 60 mph pulling to Colorado and back (from West Texas). The Tundra has 120,000 miles on it now and hasn’t needed any maintenance except a water pump and serpentine belt (yes, I know, time for some maintenance). I’ve towed the travel trailer and a 7000 pound horse trailer a total of about 20,000 miles. If I’m easy with it not pulling a trailer, I will average 19 mpg (again 60 mph). All that said, I love my Tundra!
The towing capacity of a 2000 toyota tundra v8 4.7 with towing package option is as follow as according to TOYOTA FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE.
MAXIMUM TOWING CAPACITY – 5000 LBS.
MAXIMUM TOUNG WEIGHT – 500 LBS.
MAXIMUM TOWING CAPACITY WITH WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION – 7100 LBS.
MAXIMUM TOUNG WEIGHT WITH WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION – 710 LBS.
HITCH RECEIVER CLASS III – 7500 LBS. MAX with weight distribution. 5000 LBS. without weight distribution.
ALWAYS REMEMBER SUBTRACT YOUR LOAD (gas people cargo) AND TOUNGE WEIGHT FROM your GVWR and also to caculate your total combined vehicle and trailer weight Maximums.
Well, I put almost 3000 miles on my tundra last month, pulling my toy hauler all over the BC Rockies. The truck pulled it awesome with no issues!! These tundras can be a wee but thirsty though. I averaged 9.7 mpg for the whole trip, which meant I didn’t drive past too many gas stations! It would be nice if these trucks came with a larger gas tank…
I estimate my hauler weighed in at just under 8000 lbs for the trip. It was kind of fun being “that guy” holding up traffic up those long mountain passes! This truck could pull anything, if you just have a little patience on those up hills.
Bill O
’08 tundra dual cab 4×4 c/w tow package
’07 jayco octane 24zx toy hauler
2 awesome golden retrievers (Nugget and Lucy)
I own an 07 Tundra 5.7L V8 and have been pulling my 34.5 foot Flagstaff VLite now for over a year. Dry weight on the unit is 7,600 pounds and I probably carry a load of another 300 pounds in it with all the “camping” stuff one needs. I also use a Reese equalizer hitch. I love my Tundra and my camper! This has been a great truck and I do the usual routine maintenance on it. NEVER a problem. Due for some brakes though…
have 2011 tundra rock warrior 4×4 factory tow package boat3600lbs dry weight 300hpmtr 600lbs kicker mtr 9.9hp150lbs trailer rated for 7500lbs weighs in at 2100lbs fueltank on boat is 127gal 5.7 I/force mtr 6spd auto dbl/cab what do I need on trk to be safe
2011 rock warrior 5.7 dbl/cab 4×4 w/fac tow package will ittow 7-8000lbs as is w/out accessorizing little nervous about boat 3600lbs mtrs 800lbs trailer5/16ball 2100 lbs127gal fuel 960lbs 4adults 950lbs
I’ve owned a 08 tundra crewmax trd 4×4 with tow package since 09. My wife and I are looking to buy a 5th wheel camper. I’m just wondering what the most weight anyone has put on these trucks. It’s a heavy camper I know I will need to beef up suspension and put in 5th wheel hitch. I’ve seen some people say to use a slide hitch. I drive a dump truck for work so used to driving big trucks pulling heavy trailers. But I understand the truck had limits. Just wanted some in put thanks.
Josh,
I’ve heard a lot of guys are able to go beyond the max towing capacity of about 10k lbs. Is it safe to pull that long-term? Probably not. But, I’ve heard it being done.
I spent some time on an RV forum and I understand the towing capacity isn’t an issue on the Tundra, it is the payload capacity. When pulling an RV, it seems you are far more likely to exceed the max limits due to your payload (luggage, people, what not) than the weight of the trailer.
The best thing to do is check the owner’s manual of your Tundra and the gross weight of the trailer. Grab some paper and a pencil and figure it out for your own situation.
Best of luck,
-Tim
About to purchase a travel trailer and a bit nervous about pushing the weight limits after reading this thread. I have a 2006 Tundra Double Cab with a 4.7L V8 and tow package. The manual says I can tow up to #7000. I read on line that this truck should weigh ~ #4000 and the sticker in the door jam says the carrying capacity is #1660 = GVWR of #5660. If I subtract fuel (#160), passengers (#720) + luggage and bikes (#250) I’m left with just #4530 to tow. The trailer I want to purchase weighs #5090 w/o supplies. Do you think this truck’s realistic towing limit should be #4500?
Mike,
I would have no problems pulling 5,090 lbs with a 5.7L V8. The 4.7L makes me a bit nervous. I think the truck could do it, you would just be putting a large strain on the engine and suspension.
-Tim
Mike,
I had a 2006 Tundra Double Cab 4×4 with the 4.7 V8, I bought a travel trailer that weighed 5,900lbs dry. When empty it pulled fine but when I loaded up with family, bikes, firewood and all the other junk we bring I was overloaded. If you are going to be traveling on level ground it might be alright but if you are going to mountains or hilly areas I’d think twice before buying. I traded my truck for a 2012 GMC 2500HD Diesel because I was overloaded. After a couple years I realized the GMC was more than I needed so I went back to Toyota and just bought a 2014 Tundra with the 5.7 V8 and it does just fine with the load. Gas mileage isn’t good but the truck handles the weight just fine. When I had my old Tundra I was getting around 6-8 mpg pulling. I hope this helps.
Good Luck with your decision.
Thanks for your advice. Confusing because the manual says the 2 wheel drive 2006 Tundra has a towing capacity of #7000. Take away the weight of passengers, fuel, luggage and supplies (let’s be generous and say #1500) I still should be OK with a #5090 trailer…but that doesn’t sound like the experience others have had.
I have a 2005 tundra d/c 4.7 w/11,800 GCVW vehicle weighs 5400 going with a coachmen apex 31ft (5083lbs) husky center line sway system. I have class 4 hitch for the wdh.
I have rated tounge weight on the tt for 585 and my manual says 670lb. I don’t have this yet but No Paperwork signed yet… Just wanted to make sure .
thanks, John
Max towing on the tundra is 6700 according to the manual.
Since posting my query above I went ahead and purchased the 5090lb travel trailer and have taken 2 trips with my 2006 Tundra (4.7L – 2WD). First trip was from Atlanta to the Smokeys. Initially headed out with bikes but didn’t like the strain I was feeling on the highway so returned home and got rid of that weight (~300lbs). Seemed easier to drive after that. Took a slightly longer route to stay more on the interstate. Averaged 8-9mpg on the way to the mts.
Just returned from trip #2. This time I kept the bikes + 2 kayaks on an 8 hr trip to FL. Again – felt a bit heavy but because we weren’t facing steep climbs I went ahead and did fine. Averaged 10-11mpg.
Still – worry about the toll on the vehicle and thinking perhaps it’s time to move up to a larger engine. My conclusion is that while the manual says it is possible to tow 7000lbs that is not the same as will the vehicle handle normally and not suffer accelerated wear and tear from towing close to the max for long distances and steep climbs.
I have a 2014 Tundra 5.7L 4×4 with tow package, and I am looking at gooseneck horse trailers. I have read a lot of these post and I’m still confused at how much I can pull. I have a lot of people tell me I can not pull a gooseneck and others say I can pull a 2 horse. Can someone help me? I’m looking at a 1999 4 star 2 horse that has a GVWR of 8050. Can my truck safely pull this?
Cassie,
Yes, you can pull it, however, the payload limit would be an issue. With that much towing weight, you won’t have a lot of capacity left to haul anything like feed or passengers.
-Tim
Thought I saw a weight rating maximum once that was the total for my Tundra and a trailer’s weight combined. Is so 1) what is it called, 2) where can I find that rating maximum for my particular Tundra? Checked the owner’s manual over and can’t find anything unless I missed it, which is entirely possible. Don’t seem to find anything on the internet either. I seem to remember a figure somewhere around 15k lbs. combined maximum.
Ok I have a question and would love a good answer. I have a 2006 tundra with the 4.7 v8 in it its the full four doors I do have a little lift kit well I do not know just bought it its either that or a leveling kit it does have bigger tires. Ok now here’s my question I wanna pull a horse trailer it weighs 2900 pounds empty and you figure each horse weighs 1000-1200 pounds but only 2 horse there will be 3 adults in the truck human body weight I say is 600-700 pounds do you think I can pull or is it to much? I dont know what kind of two package I have on it all I know it bolts to the bumper and to the frame the wings that come off the two bar go down the frame about 2 feet each side and bolt.
Yes you can tow it but it will require a Class 3 Reese type hitch. YOU CAN NOT USE THE BUMPER WITH A BALL. Your trailer total weight will be 5300 pounds add passengers 700 pounds and you are still only at 6000 pounds. The tundra can tow a 5000 pound trailer but if you exceed 5000 pounds you are suppose to use leveling bars on the trailer. With leveling bars over 5000 pounds the total trailer weight can be 7100 pounds gross. You have to subtract your passenger weight from this 7100 pounds so in your case with your 700 pounds worth of passengers your maximum trailer weight is 6400 pounds with load leveling bars. A class 3 Hitch is rated at 5000 pounds max. What most people don’t know is that a 5000 pound class 3 hitch is rated at 8000 pounds max when load leveling bars are used. You must use load leveling bars to tow your trailer safely as per your description of your weights. Use a 2 inch ball rated at 6500 pounds.
My 2005 double cab was rear ended and they want $1700 for a new factory trailer hitch. I only tow lighter trailers (2-4000 lbs) Can I skip the factory hitch and install a Class III? How difficult is it do remove the factory hitch?
I have a 2004 Tundra Double Cab Limited (4.7) with tow package and trans cooler. I purchased a 2009 keystone passport ultra lite (5000lbs) and it came with a Hensley Arrow weight distribution hitch. The passport has a tongue weight of 605. I have the factory hitch on my truck, with the four bolts on the receiver plate. The back of the plate bent and I am replacing it. I may have hooked up wrong or caused stress backing up a hill with the slider being at an angle. Questions: Can this truck pull this trailer safely? Is the 2004 factory hitch a class III or IV hitch? The bumper says 500 LB tongue and 5000 LB trailer, but that is for the bumper with ball, not the hitch with receiver, correct? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.