Toyota Tundra Bed Bounce Data Indicates Shocks To Blame
Jason Lancaster | Dec 08, 2008 | Comments 74
Many 2007 and up Toyota Tundra owners have experienced something we like to call “bed bounce.” Our best post on the subject explains the Toyota Tundra bed bounce problem quite well, and you can read about a couple of suggested fixes for bed bounce – “possible bed bounce cure” and the “Willybar Bed Bounce treatment“.
Still, the fact is that neither of the above fixes is ideal or 100% effective. The truck shouldn’t have this issue in the first place. We’re disappointed that Toyota hasn’t fixed this issue to date, but perhaps the trouble is the fix isn’t that easy. In the interests of generating a bed bounce fix, and helping Tundra owners nationwide get Toyota’s attention on this issue, we’ve been talking about this problem for a while now.
One of our readers, Jeff, works for a company specializing in measuring and analyzing frequency data. In a previous career, Jeff worked as an engineer with a Nascar team. Between all of his knowledge and experience, Jeff (a Tundra owner who has experienced bed bounce first hand) decided to measure the difference in suspension response between his old 2003 Tundra and his new 2008. Here are some graphs of the results and some conclusions:
Here’s a summary graph of the frequency amplitude for all of the tests Jeff conducted on his 2003 Tundra. The 2003, which does not experience bed bounce, has a peak amplitude of about 3 hz.
Here’s the same summary of bed vibration frequency amplitude data for the 2008 Tundra. Note that the peak frequency for the 2008 is 8 hz. While the 2003 Tundra exhibits a significant amplitude at 8 hz, it’s much less pronounced. Both trucks have a strong amplitude at 3 hz, so we can assume that’s not the cause of the bed bounce problem.
Here’s the two data sets overlapped (not an exact overlap – just for graphical effect):
The 2008 Tundra data (yellow) shows a clear increase in amplitude at 8hz over the 2003 Tundra (blue).
What does this data mean? We’re not 100% sure, but we think it’s safe to draw the following conclusions:
- Clearly, the suspension of the 2007-and-up Tundra has an issue with dampening 8 hz frequencies. This could be the cause of the bed bounce problem.
- According to Jeff, dampening the spare tire had a limited impact on the test results. In other words, turning your spare tire into a damper works to reduce bed bounce, but not that well.
- If the 8 hz amplitude is indeed the cause of bed bounce, this is a problem that can be mitigated by the truck’s shock absorbers. Jeff’s Nascar experience was specifically related to reducing low frequency vibrations by changing shock valving, rebound rates, etc. Considering that many Tundra owners have stated that a new set of shocks has helped with the bed bounce problem, this observation makes sense.
Bottom line: Toyota – fix this problem already. The data indicates that a change in the shock absorbers could fix or at least mitigate the Tundra’s bed bounce problem. New shocks are a relatively in-expensive fix for a problem that effects a small portion of Tundra owners. It wouldn’t even need to be a recall – Toyota could just offer a different set of rear shocks to any Tundra owner that complained. Obviously, new shocks might effect ride or handling, but obviously many Tundra owners would trade a little bit in either of those departments for a reduction in bed bounce. What’s the hold up?
Special thanks and shout-out to Jeff for preparing this data and sending it to us – great work man. Thank you.
Filed Under: Tundra Recalls
Good to see and hear. Now Toyota should jump at this and help those people.
Comment on bed bounce article, My 2007 Tundra is equipped with the TRD package which includes different shocks. I have not experienced the bed bounce problem, but the whole trucks suspension is so stiff that I must be experiencing “whole truck bounce”. This is one rough ride and I am ordering one of those water bags for the bed to try. I know why Toyota made those radio knobs bigger now, it helps when trying to adjust volume when bouncing down the road..
GaryD.
LOL @ Gary D’s comment about knobs! Agreed Toyota needs to do something to alleviate the issue as it’s the biggest complaint I’ve seen since joining the forum.
Thank you for posting the results of this research, I hope it means something toToyota and they help us with this. If Toyota lets us down, is there a shock upgrade that TundraHQ recommends to solve this problem?
Can somone clarify this bed bounce. Does it affect short box, long box, crew cab, quad, regular suspension or TRD.
I have the 07 Double cab sr5 with the off road package. Never had a problem with bed bounce. i replaced the crappy Bridgestone OEM tires with TOYO Open country A/T’s at 32000 kilometers and actually improved the ride. Keep in mind this is a 4×4 work truck not a luxury car. Having said that my tundra is every bit as smooth as my friends Fords, GMs, and Dodge trucks.
Russ, I purchases a short bed, 4 X2, Crewmax and is just horrible. The bed bounces a lot to the extent, we have to pull over to rest because neck and stomache, really feel it. I have tried to resolve this issue at the dealer and they have told me that is the one of the characteristics of these trucks and that they get these complaints all the time. A friend of us bought a smaller Tundra, 4X4 and he had the same problem. He worked for months with Toyota until got the problem fix at the Toyota’s cost. The navigation system 70% of the times responds “this address does not exit.” I have checked that with the dealer and they say; I need to purchase the updated disk for $304. So I will suggest be very careful. We paid for the Tundra $44,000 and we have to continue buying a disk to update the navigation system? this is ridiculous. Just buy a GPS at best buy for $200 and you will be able to updated through a free website in your computer.
i had a pro comp 6″ lift and 35″ pro comp mudders installed on my 2008 crew max at 600 miles,which included different shocks.the ride is fine and i don’t notice any bed bounce with over 3700 miles on the truck,looks awesome too!pics here on tundra headquarters.
Russ – We conducted a survey, surveyed some dealerships across the country, and we have spoken with quite a few Tundra owners. The vast majority of Tundra owners – upwards of 90% – have not experienced bed bounce. Of the people that have, there’s no correlation between long or short box, crew or regular cab, TRD or no TRD, etc. The only correlation we could find is that people living in the southern half of the US are more likely to experience bed bounce. This is likely due to the much higher presence of concrete highways with large expansion joints (this is especially true of S. California). So, if you’re considering a Tundra but you’re not sure about bed bounce, we suggest you test drive it on your regular route. If you experience it, you’ll know.
Kaz – Thank you – it’s always nice to read a compliment! 🙂 We don’t have any shock recommendation, but that would definitely make for a good study…
It still makes me wonder if Toyota is doing any research on the issue or really just don’t care to since it’s a small percentage being reported. The few times I experience it near Los Angeles is a big annoyance. It happens one certain freeways in Nor Cal as well but not as bad…..I usually play it off, especially if riding with kids. We make sounds and laugh about it instead of getting all bunched up about the ride of a truck.
2007 DC TRD Limited 4×4 … My truck came with Bilstien shocks and the ride is very rough, so I am not convinced it is not a shock problem. Yesterday as I was hopping down I-10 I pulled up next to a brand new Chevy 2500 and he was hopping even worse than me! This problem is not unique to the Tundra … problem is too light of a truck with too heavy of a spring …
I too have bed bounce and live in So. Cal. It is mainly on the highway even when towing and with motorcycles in the back. My kids make funny noises when the ride in the truck. If shock can help what type of shocks are you recomending.
We have no shock recommendations because we’re not quite sure if the shocks are the problem. As Michael said, the main cause of the problem is stiff leaf springs and a light truck. TXTee has the right idea – no point in getting upset if you can help it.
The shocks could be a problem but it’s more than likely the cheesy three piece junk frame they use. Have any of you seen the latest proving ground test where the Tundra’s bed looks like it going to come off the truck?
It’s the frame.
It would be interesting to know if there is any aftermarket company, such as Old Man Emu, that makes a progressive rate leaf spring kit for the tundra. the I know some trucks come with extra leafs that only engage when weight is placed on the truck. That way the empty vehicle has a more compliant ride, but is still able to take on extra weight when needed. In my estimation, this would make the bed bounce less problematic.
Mike – I’m not convinced that the frame isn’t part of the problem, but to say it’s junk is an overstatement. Still, it seems that conventional wisdom – using a fully-boxed frame – would be a wise move on the part of Toyota.
Matt – Good idea. A progressive leaf-spring setup would help reduce bounce, but I’m guessing Toyota didn’t install one at the factory because of expense and the fact that the rear would sag when it was loaded up. Still, a great idea.
I tend to agree with Matt about the springs. Where I work at in armored vehicles they use an extremely heavy duty springs on the 10,000 lbs truck. When loaded down with coin the truck rides unbelievable smooth. With no coin the rear wheels hop constantly.
There is no doubt that Toyota has a problem with the bed bounce, but with profits shrinking, they won’t spend the time or money to fix it. A spring change would be too expensive for them to consider . I have worked with shocks for several years and there are many things you can do with them to improve the ride quality. The first thing you have to look at is the gas charged shocks that are on the TRD package. Just remove one rear shock and try to compress one. Good luck. I my previous life, we used to increase the spring rate on a race car by increasing the nitrogen pressure in the shock. This was used as a quick tuning method (along with spring rubbers) when trying to tighten or loosen a car in turns. I know that this is a different shock rate (here we are dealing with chassis roll), but the same principle applies. As a quick fix/trial, go to a NAPA store and tell them you want rear shocks for a “standard” Tundra. They will sell them to you for about $43 each. If you have a wrench, you can change the rear shocks in about 15 minutes. Keep in mind we only want to change the rear shocks to change the harmonic frequency of the vehicle. Leaving the front shocks stiff may alter the frequency enough to cancel the rear bounce. If you don’t like the shocks, you can take them back for a refund. These shocks have a very small gas charge in them and will not increase your spring rate. I bought 2 of them and they seemed to make a difference. I have not collected any data with our data acquisition system yet, but as soon as I do, I’ll post the results. Going to another type of shock such as the off road types will only amplify your problems. I am open to any suggestions that anyone has to help improve the ride. We have the technology here to test any suggestions. Unfortunatly, it’s not what I do for a living anymore, but I still do like to tinker with this stuff. If only we all had unlimited funds, we could build a Penske racing shock for about $2000 a piece that would really take care of everything. Maybe Toyota TRD could valve one for us? I won’t hold my breath, but they do have the technology to do it as does every other NASCAR team. It ain’t rocket science, it just needs to be fixed.
Jeff – Thanks so much for the post. You’ve really come up with something great here and we appreciate you sharing it with us. Please let me know if there’s anything I can do to assist in your research.
With due respect and thanking you for the data, I’m guessing it is not the shocks but the frame/chassis/systems dynamics of the vehicle. You see, cab bounce, as I like to call it, is not new. I own a ’98 3-door F150 4×4 that had severe cab bounce (recall that ’98 was the first full year of the current platform). It would appear at 36 MPH +/-1 MPH over what appeared to be smooth road. There were places along my drive to work route that were worse than others.
Also, Ford was plagued with what they called “California Expansion Joint Hop”. They (Ford) did try to fix the hop by frame mounting a dampener weight in the space behind the spare and before the rear bumper. That system did not work for my truck. The truck has performed this 5-7Hz bounce since day one (approx. 125 KMiles). I tried everything including all of the things I
I agree with Bob about the chassis, but I don’t think Toyota is going to change the chassis to fix this problems that only happens on certain roads. We can’t do much, but changing little things can help. Shock absorbers can be “tuned” to filter certain freqencies, but that is an involved process that manufacturers don’t want to spend the time or money on. Remember, we are dealing with the front to back rocking motion of the entire truck. The bouncing of the vehicle is actually a sub-harmonic of the 8 hz that we graphed. If it were just an 8 hz vibration, it might actually feel good! If we know the space of the expansion joints, the length of the wheelbase and the speed of the vehicle, something could be tuned to eliminate “that” problem at “that” speed. It wouldn’t help if we fixed it at that speed and just moved the resonant frequency somewhere else. Changing they way we “rock” the vehicle is the only practical method we can address. It’s a complicated problem when you start working with such a stiff chassis. Arg! What fun! Maybe lower the tire pressure to 10 lbs and only drive 45 mph! Ha! I just wish TRD would get involved and address this problem. They are supposed to have top notch engineers working on “development”. My heater fan noise is the absolute most annoying thing to me! Drives me nuts!
Jeff and BobCat – Reading your comments is like attending a seminar on vehicle frame physics – we’re honored to have such intelligent discourse here on TundraHeadquarters. I too hope that Toyota engineers get involved, and I also believe the combination of the stiff frame and stiff suspension are the culprit. Still, I’d like to think an enhanced shock design would at least mitigate the bounce problem (but not cure it as BobCat stated). As Jeff (and others) have said, testing and tuning a new shock to refit to all Tundra owners complaining would be expensive…and Toyota doesn’t have a reason to spend money unless (and until) everyone complains. SO, if you’re experiencing this problem and you still haven’t contacted Toyota, do it now. It only takes a few minutes and it increases the chances a fix will be found.
Jason, thanks for the kudos.
My brain and butt tell me the frames are actually too flexible. The manufactures design this frame flexibility in as an inexpensive way of getting a smoother ride (read: “car like”). This flexibility does not necessarily compromise the GVW of the truck as softer springs would so it’s a cheap ride enhancer. Anyway, as we all know when the dynamics get out of whack, the bounce appears.
I might be wrong but I’ll bet the culprit vehicles are big motor, extend-o mid bed or CrewMax short bed trucks with 9000 to 10,400 lb tow capacity. These configurations all have the same wheel base and their frame lengths and frame moduli are also the same. There may be some outliers to this config but with the Ford, my informal test drives of other Ford trucks said the 5.4 three door 4×4 short bed with HD tow was the bad boy.
I think the way to fix this problem is to stiffen the frame with side plates. This would not necessarily eliminate the bounce but it would raise the natural frequency of the “system” and that might end up moving the bounce into a frequency region that is not as objectionable. Of course one then has to ask if this kind of fix would cause premature failures in unexpected areas. Stiffening a harmonic system often times gets the system into big trouble with respect
to early, unscheduled failure.
Opps, dinner time,
BobCat
We have the technology here to be able to measure frame flex in a dynamic condition, but not ideal lab contitions, although I do know a racing crew with a chassis dyno. As a quick test, we can drive our 2003 Tundra on a bad part of the road about 25 miles from here. We can map the flex (front to rear and side to side) at a certain speed and then try it with the 2008 Tundra. It would be interesting to look at the chassis “ring”. We measure flex of structures all the time in my business, just not in the auto world. Bob, if you stiffen the side of the chassis, can you let us know the results? Do you have an accurate way to measure that? If you think it helps, maybe Jason can hook us up and we can measure this for you. I recommended to someone else to try the non gas shocks in the rear and they said it really helped with the buck he felt on the concrete roads. I’m not saying that this is a fix all, but it is by far the easiest way to see if it will help. 15 minutes on and 15 minutes off sure seems more practicle than welding on the frame and jepordizing the structural integrity of the vehicle. Over the years, we’ve welded and mended several race car chassis, and they never were the same again after we put the heat to them. I think the bottom line on all this brain damage is if you or anybody is unhappy with the Tundra, just trade it for something else. Life is too short! Toyota doesn’t pay us to fix their problems and they really don’t think it is a problem. I think we all have better things to do than try to cure this. I like this problem as a science project, but not as cure for anything. I guess I just like trying to solve problems that drive everybody crazy. I wish I had a Ford heater fan in my Tundra….the noise still drives me crazy! Does your heater fan make a ticking noise?
Thanks Bob!
Sorry, but I’m only suggesting side plate stiffeners as a possible fix. I am commenting on this thread as an experienced and technical(?) resource. I normally do not encounter the concrete highways that tend to cause this bounce so I don’t have a need to actually try and fix my rig. I only happened to experience the bounce on my way to Florida for the winter.
Adding stiffeners may be next to impossible. You can’t weld these frames because of the factory heat treat they receive. Any added stiffener would have to be bolted on. On my ’98 F150, I actually got as far as designing templates and a fastening system but I acquired another vehicle that replaced the Ford as a daily driver so I never completed the project. The Ford sits in the yard rusting away but I still use it for a plow truck. After I fix the leaking JBA stainless steel headers I probably sell it but that’s a long story for another time.
Regards,
BobCat
Just installed “low tech” NAPA shocks that Jeff recommended. What a difference! One correction. It took 40 minutes to change the rear shocks, but well worth the effort. Thanks for the somple fix. It still bounces a little, but man, what a difference!
Jake, please provide the part number for the low tech NAPA shocks. I experience terrible bed bounce driving interstate 25 in Colorado. I have experimented with sand bags (300 lbs.) with limited success. The big issue is it’s a hassle to load the truck with 5 sand bags in the back of the bed. Hopeful the cheap shock swap works on Colorado concrete roads.
Just go to NAPA and tell them you want replacement shocks for a non-TRD 07-08 Tundra. The are about 40 some dollars each. They have a ride warranty, so if you don’t like them, they will give you your money back. The rear shocks are easy to change. No special tools. It sure made a difference on the Wisconsin I-94 route to MSP.
Joel. NAPA part # 911298. $47.70 each. My Tundra was the TRD. I took off those ugly yellow things and put these on the rear.
I was about to purchase a 2008 Tundra this weekend, and then I discovered this “bed bounce” issue on the Internet.
To be honest, it’s scared this long time Toyota driver away from the showroom. (at least for now) We don’t have concrete highways, just a few bridges, so maybe it will be fine.
I’m going to see if an “extended” test drive is an option. In the mean time, I am happy plodding along in my ’85 straight axel Toyota pickup. Perhaps 24 years of driving that bouncy little thing will make me oblivious to the current problem. I did check out a couple of the youtube videos (not the Ford video) that make this look like a pretty serious problem.
Thank you all for providing so much information so I can make an informed purchase.
Marty take that extended drive and test it. You should be fine. We have concrete and alot of asphalt. My truck drives smooth on those two types of roads. I do alot of traveling on mine. I have 49,000 and I bought mine in July 07.
Marty – I agree with Mickey. Keep in mind for most people (90%+) this isn’t an issue.
I owned a 2000 Tundra and loved it. Very smooth riding.At 140,000 I traded it in on a 2007 Tundra extra cab 8 ft bed.what a tank I HATE IT !!!! THE RIDE IS THE WORST. Ialso do noy like the interior fuse box, very acword. the tilt steering is a step backward.The visors were better on the 2000 tundra.I wish I would have went back to Ford.
Jake, I installed the new NAPA shocks tonight, will give it the I-25 Interstate test tomorrow morning (Castle Rock to south Denver) and advise everyone on the improvement. Thanks for the tip.
So the NAPA shocks improve the ride somewhat on my commute from Monument to south Denver. The worst stretch of I-25 is north of Castle Rock into south Denver. I am going to experiment with 90-100 pounds of weight next commute to see if it improves more.
Bottom line on the concrete stretches of Colorado interstate the ride sucks for a $42,000 truck.
Joel – Thanks for the info. Toyota needs to fix this problem – I think your experience and other’s as well demonstrate that shocks are only part of the solution…but a good set seems to help, so if you’re suffering it’s a good idea to try.
Jason I have loaded the truck with 300 lbs. of sand bags (cheaper than the willybar) and will advise how the ride is after my commute tomorrow.
Joel – Sounds good.
Well, it sounds like everybody gave up on complaining about the bed bounce. I still have not had time to map out the 2003/vs 2008 Tundra on a real road bounce condition. I’ve been out of the country the past few months and my wife has been driving my truck to Boulder every day. Her only comment is that it sure rides smooth! Maybe we are just all to picky when it come to ride. The past 2 months I have been driving a diesel Land Criuser in Oman. Wow! What a good vehicle! It had a 5 speed manual transmission. When we lowered the tire pressure to 12 lbs, it would go over any sand dune. Too bad we can’t get them here. I would have one in a heartbeat!
Jeff – I think that bed bounce has been beaten to death. We still see some new comments, but it’s not near as bad as it once was. I’m going to write a blog post about this next week…
Hi Bob Thomas. I did put a mild steel plate above the axle. This steel plate basically tied the two frame rails together. There is already a big hole on top of the c-channel. The plate I put is 6 inches wide, 3/8 inch thick and long enough to reach the other side of the frame. Then I also have 2 small plates that goes below the c-channel. So, basically, I sandwhiched the upper C-channel between the long steel plate and the small plate. I only have 1 bolt per side which is 1/2 inch grade 8 and of course washers too. This eliminated the “aftershock.” When I hit a bump, that’s it. No more secondary vibes or harmonics. It smoothed the ride significantly. It also reduced the bed jiggle or wiggle. There are 2 more places where cross braces can be installed. Just look for the 2 flared nuts on top of the c-channel on the frame rails. I’d be carefull to make too many cross braces as the stiffer frame will result in a very stiff and bumpy ride as I discovered. I also have 7-leaf Alcan Springs, Firestone Airbags. My sway bar is disconnected.
Just purchased a 2010 Tundra and the bouncing on the streets of Katy and Houston TX is unbelievable. Enough to make may wife sick and give a severe stomach ache. I do not know what I’m going to do since I’m sure the dealer won’t take the truck back. How in the world can Toyota sell such a piece of sh*t and get away with it without any legal repercusions???
MASA – Adding weight is the easiest “fix” to the bounce problem. Sorry to hear you just found out about it, disappointed to learn this problem still exists on a 2010.
Jason,
The truck is beautiful. In my opinion the best looking truck on the road. I found this website because I wanted to know if anyone else had the bounce problem and I discovered that it is all over the internet. Tomorrow I’m taking it in to get it checked. I’m hoping that unbalanced tires are the culprits or Toyota has indeed found a solution to the problem and that they will do something about it.
I own a 2008 Tundra TRD and drive it off road in true winter and summer conditions. No bed problems at all. Matter of fact best truck I have ever owned.
I live in Alaska and have an ’08 Tundra DC TRD 4×4 short bed. We have asphault roads, some good some bad like everywhere else, instead of concrete w/ expansion joints which seem to cause the bad harmonic bed bounce. When the roads are in good shape this is the best riding truck i’ve ever driven. But, when they’re a little rough it rides like a 1 ton. I can hardly keep my foot on the gas pedal the whole truck bounces so much. I had a ’03 dodge 1/2 ton before I got this one and I didn’t have this problem. I think I’ll try the cheaper NAPA shocks. I’ll let you know how they work out. Thanks for the ideas.
Jerry – Those NAPA shocks have been cited as helping out with the problem quite a few times here and elsewhere. Adding weight to the bed also helps.
My gosh, I am not alone!!! Gary D almost told my story – 2007 TRD with Bilstein
(mine is Crewmax). I don’t feel it in the bed, but hitting potholes almost rattles my teeth. Now, when I was buying, I test drove a non-TRD model and it was extremely smooth – smoother and less truck-like than my F-150, but I wanted leather package, so I (with my mind made up) jumped into the TRD and, after a quick test drive – bought it. And now, as the local roads get worse and worse because of all the stimulus money being spent, I feel like I am on the road to Fallujah all the time. I am thinking about new shocks, but not sure which way to jump. Do I need all four? Is there a brand to jump to? What shocks do the regular Tundras use (that everyone is complaining about)?
I have a 2009 Tundra Crewmax LTD, and I also live in Colorado. For starters I have serious bed/truck bounce! The sensations are worse on certain roads, and they feel more like a 1 ton truck with no load than anything! I owned a 2000 Tundra that had little to no bed/truck bounce and traded it in on the 2009. I took 5 different test drives and even used a 2007 DC model for work. I never noticed the bed/truck bounce much. The 2007 truck was used for land-surveying and was loaded with about 250 – 1500 pounds of equipment and sometimes a trailer/ATV combo. Joel had mentioned I-25, and I would have to agree that it is one of the worst to drive on. HWY 287 from Lafayette to Ft Collins may even be worse. Not sure what to do about my 2009, the dealer said it is the wheel base length. When driven on concrete expansion joint roads, the length of the concrete slab is close to the length of the wheel base. So you get the harmonic vibration, leading to bed/truck bounce.
I didn’t know here such a website exit dedicated just for the Tundra 2007 bed bounce problem. I bought my Tundra a little 2 years ago. I started feeling the bouncing problem 2 weeks after I got the truck home. I bring it back to Toyota dealer they tell there is not thing wrong to the truck. It is very irritating and uncomfortable every time I drive the truck. It’s gives me a feeling of nauseated each time I drive the truck.
Recently Toyota got some major problem with recall, and trying to runaway not taking care of any of the problems. These scare me. I can tell you all this, this type of company do not deserve a customer anymore.
TOYOTA NEEDS TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT THESE PROBLEMS.
John I see what Toyota is doing here on the bed bounce. Most of America doesn’t experience the bounce so there is no issue to them. Since you’re the minority they will just pass you along. I’m not sure if they fixed the issue with the 2010 model. I have a 2007 Crewmax and I live in Florida and we don’t have that issue here.
John – Agreed. It’s a problem that doesn’t effect a lot of people, but the owners who are effected are understandably upset. When it comes to acknowledging mistakes and correcting them, Toyota is one of the worst. Recent events have clearly shown as much.
Hello;
I live in Albuquerque, New Mexico and recently own a used 2007 TRD 4×4 double cab that had severe bed bounce(frame flex/flimsy frame). Toyota used a double layered frame under the cab but a single layer behind the cab; this is so the frame with crush on rear impact and protect the cab but Toyota compromised frame strength/durability in the process with such a thin flimsy frame. I changed out the shocks to more absorbant with no big change. Eventually, I came up with the idea of using 2.5″ foam pool water noodles available at dollar general which only come in 3″ now I believe(a lot harder to squish in the crack). I squished the foam pool water noddles between the pickup box and the cab in the crack on the sides and top. This eliminated a most of the bed bounce problem. If anyone needs to talk to me or would like to let me know the status of this fix I’m rbolo27 at yahoo. Also, if you had a squeak in the cab it might be the radio and to fold up a few times and shove a business hard on the left side of the radio in the crack.
You probably don’t hear about all the newer Tundra’s with the same problem because after reading so many posts where Toyota brushes people off about this bounce issue, people figure why bother reporting it only to be dismissed. Toyota has not fixed the Tundra bounce problem. I live in CA. and bought a new 2010 Tundra 5.7 Limited for close to $40,000 in April (now has 5,000 agonizing miles on it.) Took to dealer for service today for horrific hop, so bad can hardly control steering to keep in freeway lane it bounces so bad. Service mgr. told me he can’t do anything about it; just said it’s “normal”. He tried to make me feel better by telling me the 2007’s and 2008’s had a worse bounce. He told me the only thing we could do is consider trading it in! That’s their solution; truck is only three months old and I should consider trading it in! This is a Toyota scam; they tell you the hop is normal and put it down on the service record so customer will just “go away” and then they don’t have to calculate these visits showing the truck as having a serious bounce problem.
JJ – It’s frustrating to be sure. There is, however, some better solutions than just trading it in. First and foremost, you can add weight to the bed. 300lbs has been enough to cut back on the bouncing according to some people.
There are also some after-market fixes for this – one is the Willy Bar – https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2008/08/11/bed-bounce-treatment-the-willybar/ – and there are also some spring mounts from Sulastic – https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/03/26/sulastic-rubber-springs-and-tundra-bed-bounce/ – and finally you can try adding air bags or switching shocks.
As for Toyota, they have a well-documented history of ignoring this problem. While I definitely believe the bounce is significantly reduced compared to the 07/08 model, it’s still a bit of problem (ESPECIALLY for folks in California). Good luck.
I bought my Tundra last year (new, 5.7L crewmax) and have rediculous problems with the bouncing (Carpool and fastlane along the 91 through Riverside and Corona… for u so-calians here.) We just had our 1st baby back in June and find it extremely uncomfortable seing my childs head bouncing around in the back. I brought the truck in for servicing and asked them to check out the suspension. The service rep said the technician took it for a drive and said everything checked out fine. Im gonna take it in to Riverside Toyota in the next day or two and have them take a look at it and drive it exactly where I do. If they say anything whatsoever… God help me I will bring hell upon Toyota of Moreno Valley (where I bought the truck). They will take care of this problem whether its changing out the shocks or whatever else they feel is necessary. I will post whatever they mention after I get it checked out! Props to this site. Helps alot!
Hi Mark,
Toyota test drove my truck and wanted to charge me $150 for diagnoses but eventually backed down and I didn’t have to pay it. They told me the truck drove like a normal truck. I asked them to drive it about 2 miles down the road to the area of the concrete interstate where the truck bounces but they declined stating they aren’t going to drive it all over town.
Mark – There’s a new TSB out – see this post: https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/09/20/toyota-finally-addresses-bed-bounce/
It’s not available for the Crewmax, but I would ask anyways. Perhaps the service department can make a special request.
My Tundra is just a couple of a hundred miles out of warranty and the rear shock on the passenger side is half covered in oil. I noticed fluid on the garage floor. I have already had the driver’s seat replaced because of wobble and changing the oil is a pain in the ass (multi-part filter), etc. This is my first and last Toyota.
I’ve seen comparisons to the F-150 (particularly a couple on YouTube), and the difference in frame construction is disturbing.
Toyota must build a better frame if this truck is to avoid so much flex. (Having problems with stability on a new truck, which no one can fix despite everything meeting specs? It can be traced to a weak frame many a times.) Sadly, the frame of the Tundra CrewMax–in my opinion (and I’ve studied structural design)–has been neglected and desperately needs a redesign.
Ivan – I’ve seen those videos too, and not to argue with you, but keep in mind they were created by Ford. It’s no wonder the F150 looks best in that comparison.
I personally agree that the current Tundra frame design is lacking, if only because so many people complained about an abnormally rough ride.
Since I didn’t know about the problem, I went and bought a new 2012 Tundra Platinum without taking a test drive. As soon as I drove away in my beautiful new truck my innards were vibrating so much, probably that 8 Hz rate, that I was getting sick and my stomach was sore all night. It happens even on relatively smooth streets. I bought the truck thinking that I would drive it 1200 miles to a job site in Illinois. Now I don’t think I can drive it that far. I’m going back to the dealership this morning to talk about canceling the sale. My 2004 Sienna van is worn out and vibrates some, but nothing like this. It’s like being punched in the stomach continuously.
Since it’s a 2012 it’s obvious that Toyota isn’t taking the problem seriously and none of the suggested fixes have been implemented.
I’ve had a 2013 Tundra double cab for about a week, and the first ride to work it nearly hops the tires off the road driving on concrete expansion joints. The same concrete I have driven for years in multiple other vehicles.
James B,
I’m curious if you have driven that same stretch in a full-size truck before? One of the responses Toyota has is that the ride quality is very similar to other full-size trucks.
-Tim
Tim,
A bit late getting back to you, but yes I drove that stretch when I had an F350, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Nissan Frontier, BMW330xi, and my wife’s Altima and Highlander. I was a passenger in an F150 through there. No bounce in any of those vehicles.
I would give a Toyota engineer a hundred bucks to drive that stretch of road at 65 mph the next time it is covered in ice.
– James B
James,
Thanks for getting back to me. I’m always curious to hear other owners experiences.
-Tim
I thought I’d give an update. I missed a red-light and got plowed by a small bus at about 50mph. It caused my 2007 Tundra quad cab to flip over about 3 times or so..it was hard to count so I’m not certain. The bed of the truck was totally destroyed, the impact side looked bad but the front passenger compartment remained fully intact. The truck rolled around 180 degree from the direction I was going and ended up right side up. I was unharmed except for a bump on my head from hitting the center console during the side impact and a small friction burn on my elbow.
To James B. I had a 2003 Dodge RAM quad cab before my Tundra and I don’t remember experiencing such a crappy ride on the concrete expansion joints.
Randy,
Wow, glad you are ok.
-Tim
Thanks,
I’ll give Toyota credit for building a very safe truck, but they got work to do on the ride quality. I don’t miss the rough ride.
I dont know why you guys have bed bounce but, I have a 2007 Limited Crewmax that I got with the 20 inch wheels and it rode beautiful. I just put 22 inch wheels with 285/50R22 Nittos and now get a little bounce, that actually sets off my ESC light.
I no longer have a Tundra and my issues are non-existent. I been relieved ever since and only buy Nissan now.
’11 Tundra Dbl Cab 2WD – Any suggestions on a replacement – smooth Sequoia like ride – shock. I do not do heavy towing.
thanks…