Toyota Customer Service: Tips for Getting Your Problem Solved
Jason Lancaster | Apr 30, 2007 | Comments 632
Few things are more frustrating than having a problem with your vehicle. In fact, there’s a good chance you bought a Toyota because you thought that it wouldn’t have any problems. Unfortunately, even a Toyota has the occasional issue. But what about when your Toyota car, truck, or SUV has a problem that isn’t resolved to your satisfaction? Maybe you’ve been to the dealership for the same problem multiple times, maybe you know that the vehicle has a known issue that Toyota isn’t acknowledging, or maybe you’ve just been treated poorly. In any case, here is how you can get what you want.
First tip — don’t call Toyota’s national customer service hotline unless you’ve already tried working the problem out with your dealer (see below). If you call Toyota’s national hotline right away, you’ll get the attention of the dealership and Toyota, but you’ve ruined any leverage you have over the dealer. Toyota dealers are graded on their customer service as much as they are on sales, and by informing Toyota of your dissatisfaction you’ve let the “cat out of the bag”. Now the dealer has less to gain by helping you — the dealer is more willing to help you if they know you’re not going to tattle on them to Toyota.
Second tip — your best hope for a solution is to work with your local dealer. Believe it or not, the dealership is invested in solving your problem because they know it’s the best way to make you a lifetime customer. Dealers spend thousands of dollars in advertising trying to create trust with their customers, but statistics show that the best way to create trust is to solve problems. Good dealerships know that solving customer problems is money well spent. Even if the dealership is the problem, your local dealer is still the best place to get a solution.
However, this doesn’t mean that a dealership will solve every customer service problem free of charge, or even solve them at all. In order for a dealership to justify spending money to solve a customer service problem they have to believe that they’re creating or preserving a customer relationship. In other words, if you want to get your problem solved, you’re going to have to convince the dealership that you’re going to be a good future customer and give them good publicity.
The best way to convince a dealership you’re going to be a good customer in the future is to show them you’re a good customer now. When working with anyone at the dealership, be nice. Let’s admit it — sometimes it feels good to yell at someone. But if you want to get the best customer service you’ll need the people at the dealership to like you. “Kill em’ with kindness” and you will prove you are a customer worth saving. Also, bragging about how many cars you’re going to buy, or that your company allows you to make purchase decisions, etc., doesn’t work. Everyone makes those claims. Instead, talk about how much you like the service manager, your salesperson, etc. These statements will do more to convince the dealer you’re a good customer than any bragging you can do.
Third tip — speaking with the general manager of the dealership is the best thing you can do to help yourself. While there are many managers in a dealership, the GM has the power to solve nearly any problem. The GM can pick up the phone and speak with one of Toyota’s regional executives, authorize an expensive repair, or even decide to warranty a vehicle. Toyota empowers every dealership general manager to act on their behalf — perfect for solving customer service problems. They also tend to have the most experience and maturity in the dealership, making them very easy to work with too.
If you’ve tried everything and the GM at your local dealership can’t help you, you have a couple of choices. You can call another local dealer and try over again with them, or you can contact Toyota Motor Company. If you problem is with your vehicle, you should try a couple of local dealers before you call. On the other hand, if the problem is with a dealership, then it’s time to call Toyota.
If calling, I suggest you try a two-pronged approach and call both your local Toyota regional office and the national help line. You can find the phone numbers below. While the local regional office will often refer you to the national helpline, with a little persistence you can speak with a regional executive about your problem.
To recap, when you have a problem with your Toyota that isn’t resolved to your satisfaction, start by working with your local dealership. The dealer wants to earn your faith and trust, and they will often go above and beyond to do so. When you speak with anyone at the dealership, be nice. You want them on your side. Ask to speak to the GM too — the GM has the power to solve your problem and they also have the full backing of Toyota. Finally, if the GM at your local Toyota dealer can’t solve your problem, work with Toyota’s national hotline and try to talk to someone at the regional office. If you’re persistent and you’re nice, you’ll get the best customer service possible.
NATIONAL HOTLINE: 800-331-4331
REGIONAL OFFICES:
- Boston Office (ME, NH, VT, MA, RI) 508-339-5701
- New York (NY, NJ, CT) 973-575-7600
- Central Atlantic (PA, VA, WV, MD, DE) 410-760-1500
- Southeast Region (NC, SC, AL, GA, FL) 954-429-2000
- Cincinnati Region (MI, OH, KY, TN) 513-745-7500
- Chicago Region (MN, WI, IL, IN) 630-907-0150
- Kansas City Region (ND, SD, NE, KS, IA, M0) 816-891-1000
- Gulf States Region (OK, TX, MS, LA, AR) 713-580-3300
- Portland Region (AK, WA, OR, ID, MT) 503-493-4900
- Denver Region (WY, CO, UT, NM, AZ, NV) 303-799-6776
- San Francisco Region (Northern CA) 925-830-8300
- LA Region (Southern CA) 949-727-2700
Search terms people used to find this page:
- https://tundraheadquarters com/toyota-customer-service-tips-for-getting-your-problem-solved/
Filed Under: TundraHeadquarters.com
Customer Service: Annapolis Toyota Policy for making service appointments
If your answer to good service is a obnoxious answering machine message allowing the customer to leave a message or an alternative is for me to register on the internet after I go outside to obtain my VIN for my vehicle, its apparent you do not want any more of my business. I only bought two vehicles from your dealership, but with service unavailable for simple maintenance, they are my last purchases. So much for quality dealerships
George D. Field
I have had my Toyota Sequoia since new in 2002. Since then the rear hatch has had problems. There is an apparent design flaw in release lever. I have had it replaced once two years ago at a cost of $400.00. I have had to take it in agian this year, looking at the same repair. It appears to be a common problem that never really gets fixed. Does Toyota offer any relief for this type of occurance?
Dan England
Typically no. A manufacturer is reluctant to admit to a “design flaw” because that would invite a lawsuit from anyone who could demonstrate damages as a result of the flaw.
However, you might ask your dealer if Toyota can offer any “after warranty assistance” for this issue. If you’re a good customer, they should be able to come up with something.
My sequoia has been in the shop for almost a month because it keeps blowing the 20amp EFI fuse. The dealer said at first it was the EFI computer. Bare in mind they didnt evan have one in stock to check and see if that was it. They kept saying the were waiting for one to come in of the same make and model so the can take it out of someone else sequoia I thought that to be strange. So we sent the one off for repair after waiting another week come to find out it wasnt the computer. So now what?? Mean while my wife and I are still with out a car. As your tips said we buy Toyotas for there dependablity and we thought serves. My family and I have bought several vehicles my dad two trucks my sister 2 trucks and a 4 runner and my wife and I are on our secound. So I would like to know how I can resolve this so I can still have faith in toyotas and bragg about them to my co-workers and friends, because right now I am the blunt of the jokes.
Thanks Paul
I’m not sure if I fully understand your problem, but I would definitely get the dealership’s general manager involved.
I have a 2010 50k 4 runner that the paint is falling off hood in half size dollars, it is very clear you can see the primer and sealer underneath the paint. I called Gettle Toyota to inquire if their was a defect in that years pain with Toyota. Was told you are out of warranty after three years pal, we will however provide you a new hood and you will be responsible for the 2,0000 paint job. Person could not be ruder! Have bought at least 10 Toyota’s and another 10 Lexus over the years. Home office customer service hung up on me and another re had balls to ask if I change my oil on time. Yea, that will cause paint to fall off the car. You people have insulted me and my intelligence. I have been in the automobile industry for 30 years. Toyota/Lexus was once outstanding in excellence as far as service goes, now SERVICE SUCKS. I’ll buy German cars and put up with repairs from here on out.
I have been a ford man for ever. My daughter decided she like the SCION tc 2007. WE bought one with 6000miles.After signing the papers it went to detailing. It came back with numerous pitted spots from bugs,which they said it would come off after detailing it didnt. I spoke to manager, said it was used thats fine, but they also said the pitted areas would come off. MY daughter is a first time buyer with many more to go this has left a bad taste , and I am not happy either. This is my first step of many. Your advise would be apperciated
The pits — are they on the window glass too? Do you live in a windy area? If so then you may have wind damage on the vehicle. A lot of times dealers don’t even know they have wind damage on their cars. Also, if you’re not happy, talk to the GM next. That is the best person to work with.
Is there a way to get the correct information about a repair ? In other words if your vehicle is not doing what your operators manual says it should do.( yes I know it has to have that option installed in order to work)A friend also has a prius with smart key, when he walks away from his car the doors lock. Mine does not. The dealer says that it is not supposed to???
2007 toyota tundra limited. 18 inch chrome lug nuts rusting. dealership said they will rust again even after they change them. has anyone else had this problem.
2005 Highlander…6 cylinder with transmission or engine control module problems. Car “thumps” when coming to a stop or when accelerating again after slowing down. Dealership tells me I’m only one with problem. Anyone else experiencing problem?
can only tell you that you are NOT the only person with that problem. Have had the same problem since day-1 with a 2007 Tundra. All they say is that it is normal, and that it is a “learned” function, based on how you drive. Once, they changed the drive shaft, but it never fixed the problem.
Goo luck!
I went into my toyota dealership to get my tire replaced on a Saturday, only drove my car on Monday after that. On Tuesday moirning my hubcap comes flying off on the very tire that they fixed, I called my service tech, he said hubcaps come off al the time, and it was secure when it left, I’m like ths hubcap never came off before, matter of fact no tire work has ever been done previously, but isnt strange that as soon as you guys replace my tire, my hubcap comes flying off…I really dont see how the two cant be linked, If I had gotten into accident, because mind you the hubcap rolled under my car, would I just say hey it was an act of nature..
Annie – It’s hard to believe the two aren’t related, but technically it is possible. Hopefully the dealer will come up with something that meets your satisfaction.
Joyce – that’s an odd problem. If it were a transmission or engine, it would set some sort of code…
This may sound dumb, but is there any chance your spare tire is loose? Maybe something else on or in your SUV? That would definitely explain the “thump” sound.
DRIVESHAFT. CHECK TSB.
driveshaft didn’t fix the problem 🙁
I have a limited Sienna for which we paid over $50,000 for it just to realize that with only 30,000 miles the full dash in all areas is cracking up. This is a consealed factory defect. The dealer does not even care, and all they say is Toyota has a 3 year waranty. My car has almost 4 years. The dealer has not even inspected my vehicle. Should we post it on the news and park it in front of the dealer so that people can see what could happen to your Toyota!
Look for some advice. I am a long time happy Toyota customer until now. I have a 2004 4Runner that developed a leak from the o-ring on the Actuator Assembly. This o-ring is a $4 part that unfortunately Toyota does not make available as a replacement part. This means that the Actuator must be replaced. Cost of a new actuator is $1,100. Next the actuator is mounted inside the transfer case, this means that it is very labor intensive to get to it. That adds another $1,100 to the bill. I have been told by my local Toyota dealer that my cost to fix this $4 bad o-ring is $2,200. Seems to me by the very nature of the design that Toyota figures that these o-rings don’t go bad. I have pled my case to Toyota’s “Customer Experience Rep” in Torrence to no avail. I have spoke to the local Customer Experience Rep as well and no luck there. Where can I plead my case that this is bad engineering and Toyota should step up ad help out with this bill. My 4Runner is a 2004 and has 95K miles.
Thanks,
Jeff
Miguel – have you worked with the dealership’s GM yet? The lower level employees aren’t empowered to help you, but the general manager is.
Jeff – check your email for our suggestion. Good luck to you both.
Yes the GM was the one who talked to me over the phone and the Representative for Toyota in Puerto Rico. Both have not even seen the unit and have rejected my appeal. So where do you recomend me to talk to? Due to the rejection and lack of help here in Puerto Rico I am thinking of placing pictures and comments of the situation in the news, news papers and the internet. This will create more awareness of how they deal with problems here at PR.
My son took his ’05 Scion tC to Capital Toyota in Chattanooga to have a hammering noise checked. Because the car had been back to the dealer for this problem several times before, and it was diagnosed as “insignificant and O.K.to drive”, and was now out of warranty, Scion agreed to pay up to $750 for suspected rod-bearing replacement. The car has been there for a week – they finally got around to looking at it – completely disassembled the lower end – now they are saying they want $6,600+ to rebuild it OR we can come get it with a trailer and lots of boxes for the parts !! I think they should be required to put the car in the same condition it was when brought in since they had no authorization to exceed the original estimate based on their faulty diagnosis. They originally stated that they could/would replace the bearing for $720 .. .. now this !! !!
Bob – tried sending you an email and it bounced back as spam. Basically, my advice was this – if the dealership’s general manager doesn’t want to help with this issue, contact your state’s dealer licensing board. They will open an investigation, which usually gets good results. Good luck
2004 Sienna at 24,000 miles all disc roters needed to be replaced. Also 2006 A/C blew hot air. 2x took in and fixed a faulty connection and a leaking hose. A/C now blowing hot air again. Now at under 57,000 miles sliding electronic door motor goes out and they say approx 2000.00 to fix. Oh by the way when the sienna was in the shop they wrecked the front end and tried to say we brought it in that way. They ended up having to fix that. Original fleet salesman misspoke as to what vehicle we were getting and when I confronted them about not having side airbags they insisted it did have them. I checked the VIN and it didnt. They then said for 3,000.00 more we could trade in to upgrade. Now this is my 6th Toyota from a 74 celica gt to this. I wonder if this is my last Toyota. You tell me. Can I pray that the A/C goes out again to make this a lemon or am I off base?
Tim – Rotors needing replaced at 24k isn’t unheard of, but it isn’t that common either. Did they say why the rotors needed replaced? If it’s scoring, it might be that you waited a little too long to replace the pads. If it’s because they are warped, then it’s probably because they were soaked/washed when they were hot. If it were a defect or something, it’s highly unlike all four rotors would be the same. The A/C problem is unusual, but I doubt you’ll have to deal with it again. As for the sliding electric door, read this article and see if A.W.A. is something you can get.
http://accurateautoadvice.com/.....-warranty/
Finally, the experience you had with the dealer sucks. They salesman should know his stuff.
2 complaints about an otherwise superb vehicle and accmmodating dealership.
1. I have always brought my RAV4 in for oil changes at the 5000 mile interval, as recommended in the manual. My dealer has reset the warning reminder light to reset after 3000 miles. I insisted that it be reset at 5000 and I was ignored. This ploy is obviously designed to increase the service dept. business, which it obviously does not need.
2. DESIGN problem. MY RAV4 is kept in a carport. Mice persistently have their night-time dinner in the vicinity of the battery. The result is a pile of leavings on the disposable air filter. I have set successful mousetraps. But that is not a lasting answer. Is there a solution?
Hilbert – The dealer is stuck in the 70’s. I’d advise you tell them to set your vehicle for 5k miles or you will take your business elsewhere.
As for the mice, I have a few suggestions. First, take a look at the area around your carport. The mice live nearby most likely – get rid of their house (like a pile of wood, an unkempt shrub, etc.) and you will reduce your problem. Second, check your car for food remnants. Even one forgotten french fry in the backseat is enough to entice a pesky mouse! Finally, consider adding powerful smelling items to your engine compartment in a safe way. Dryer sheets are great for this – they’re resistant to heat and the smell is powerful enough to discourage animals. You’ll have to replace them somewhat regularly, but that’s better than the alternative.
i bought a used certified scion tc 07 about a month ago (not locally about an hour out of my city) and recently will driving the driver side rearview mirror “helmet” fell off. Noticed that the left side mirror was loose too, went to the local dealer and they said that it looked like the car had been in a car accident because it didn’t have stickers on the inside of the right door. It does have the VIN but no stickers. when i purchased the car no one informed me of any sort of accident. i called the dealership, spoke with a sales manager, made an appoiontment, and he told me that if it was loose that they would replace the part at no coast to me. i have owened a salvage car and although it was a great car i deicided to purchase from a BIG dealership because i didn’t want this sorta thing to happen. Any advice on how i can deal with this would be really appreciated. i love my car but why doesn’t it have stickers?
Lily – If your tC doesn’t have a door sticker, it’s either 1) been in an accident or 2) from outside the U.S. Either way, the dealership should have disclosed these facts to you. My suggestion is to demand the dealer take the car back – if they refuse, contact your state’s dealer licensing board. They should hear about this one…
I have a 2005 Toyota Highlander.My sunroof did not close and I took it to my mechanic.He said the mechanism cable is completely broken. After speaking with a Toyota representative, the mechanic said it would be over $3,000.00 to fix. The car is only 2 1/2 years old.I bought it used a year and a half ago. Even though it is under 3 years old, it has 38,000 miles on it making the 3 year/36,000 warranty void. I feel this is an issue that should be paid for by Toyota…obviously a manufacturing issue. The local dealership said unless I ahd an extended warranty (which I don’t) I would be charged. Who can I call about this defect in my car?
Susan – you want to ask about something called “after warranty assistance” (AWA). It’s hard to qualify for if you didn’t buy the vehicle new, but it’s worth a shot.
Here’s a good article about AWA:
http://accurateautoadvice.com/.....-warranty/
I bought the Toyota Corolla CE 2007 model in Oct 2006. Iam getting lot of noises from window glasses, rear view mirror etc. Took to the dealer many times. They could not do much help to me.
Now recently I have one major sound coming from the back seat on the driver side (left side). If you touch the seat its vibrating and during car running condition it is giving me some frustrating noise. I took it to the dealer. After inspection they mentioned that the hinge that holds the left side back seat is not centrally located and it is located more towards right side (offset) and this is causing the problem. This is the design problem I guess.
All my impression on Toyota has become dull after buying this car. It always gives some sort of noises from different parts even though it is new.
I hope Toyota will study these design defects and try to fix them at the earliest.
We bought the 2004 Siena XLE limited model in July 2003. In Jan, 2008, We went skiing in Mammoth using this Van. Overnight , there are lots of snows. The next day, The Van was cover with 5 inch of Snow. 3 days later, We went home. THe slide door could n’t open. Later on, the kids opened the Right slide door, We getting lot of noises from the slide door. We took it to the local dealer, It is the slide door cable. They admited that it’s not wear and tear. It ‘s a issues with the cable. It ‘s the plastic coating of the cable, May be It couldn’t handle the extreme freeze ice from the snow.
We did talk to Head quarter customer relations, It denied my request, due to the Toyota Policy: 3 year/or 36000 miles. They didn’t evaluate the issues that I have, They are not interested in find out what cause it. It could be the cable design flaw.
Now recently I have the issues with the left side door, The plastic cable coating of the left slide door has cracks, and is starting to make noises. I went back to the Toyota Dealer service department, Again, The Irvine Power Toyota Warranty manager couldn’t do much to help me. They ask me to call Customer relation again and re-evaluate the issues that I have. They could not help me at all. The Customer Relation representative lady was not very friendly at all, harsh tone, not very friendly. (April 23, 2008, Case 2008020611)
My question are:
The platic cable coating is an issue? How many time the door open or close can before the cable coating cracks? What is the MTBF of the slide door cable, How many time it open/close the door, what is the cycle? 1000 times, 5000 times, 10000 times before the cable wear out? THey don’t want to hear what I have to say.
FYI:
The Warranty manager for Irvine Power Toyota is : DAN
HE agreed that there is a issues with the plastic coating cable.
When the car is out of 36 month/3 year policy, It couldn’t do anything about this.
The bottom line is:
I not very not happy with the Toyota customer relation people.
I had so much trouble with this Van: (Back door struts, Slide door, Window panel, etc…)
I thought that Toyota make the best, build tough, best in market. I have to think about it before I buy another Van… May be not a Toyota
Thanh – Very frustrating. Check out the link I gave Tim:
http://accurateautoadvice.com/.....-warranty/
It might help.
I purchased a RAV 4 last year. At the time, there were three things I definitely wanted in my new car. The only one I couldn’t get was the satellite radio. The explanation had something to do with the merging of XM and Sirius. I did spend the extra for the satellite ready radio, thinking that, when the merger was finalized, the only thing that would have to be done was to get the receiver. Imagine how upset I was when I was told that it would cost an additional $800 for parts and labor for the receiver. That makes a total of almost $1300 for the entire system. I almost would have done better to purchase the basic radio and forgotten about the satellite.
Now I find out that a satellite radio is available as an option for $449 in the new RAV 4. If that was all I had to pay, I would not be particularly happy, but it is much more reasonable than the price that I am currently being quoted.
I spoke to the service manager. He became clearly annoyed with me when I askd for an explanation of the charges. He told me that the problem was with the salesman who should have explained satellite ready radio better. I was told that it would take about 4-5 hours to completely take apart the dash board to wire the radio. He clearly did not understand why I thought $800 was unreasonable. I became very frustrated talking to him. I understand where he is coming from, but I find it hard to believe that he couldn’t do any better. The discussion clearly started to deteriorate when I mentioned that my son just purchased a much less expensive new car and the satellite radio came as standard equipment.
I don’t understand why Toyota is having such a difficult time with satellite radios. Those of us who invested in a satellite ready radio obviously intended to puchase this option when it became available. Why, then, is Toyota not making it available at reasonable price to complete the system?
Do I have any alternative?
Mom W – The trouble is most dealerships are way too expensive when it comes to installing things like stereos, remote start, etc. Any work that’s not a repair is outside a dealer’s normal business. My suggestion would be to speak with your local stereo shop about getting a factory “take-out” radio installed. Stereo shops usually pull factory radios out of cars and replace them with cooler neater after market stereos. There’s a chance they’ll sell you one they took out of another Rav4 for $200 and install it for free (or maybe a hundred dollars). Contrary to what your dealer said, an experienced tech can replace a factory stereo in less than 30 minutes (some cars in less than 5 minutes). Incidentally, you should also speak with the dealer’s GM (as suggested in the article). Good luck.
What can I do?
The situation is that my fiance and I had been trying to buy a Toyota Camry 09. We went to the Toyota dealership and originally was going to buy a used Camry. The interest rate didn
Kayla – Not to take sides, but you have to work pretty hard to convince a dealer not to sell you a car. Whatever happened at the dealership that made them decide not to work with you and your fiance, I think it’s best to move on. Next time, you will at least know what not to do. You can file a complaint with Toyota, but I doubt it will be worth your time. The dealer’s already decided to disregard you as a customer, so complaining won’t do much good.
2001 Spyder with pre-cat failure. Dealership said they recommended “goodwill” replacement of the engine and that was denied by Toyota. Car is a few thousand miles of emission warranty but the reapir record indicates there has been a problem for awhile. Who can resolve this? Pre-cat failure is a known problem that Toyota never issued a recall etc for probably due t the low number of cars.
Thanks in advance.
Jeff – Aside from reading the AccurateAutoAdvice.com article on After Warranty Assistance (AWA), there’s not much else we can recommend. Once you’re outside the letter of the warranty, Toyota really doesn’t have to do anything. Still, there are some good tips in that AWA article – it’s worth a quick read.
I purchased a 2007, previously owned, Toyota Highlander in early March this year. It runs fine and we are ALMOST completely satisfied with it. We owned Honda’s from 1980 to this one.
I am 84 years old, a retired engineer ( 31 years with Lockheed Martin ) a licesned Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic and have performed all my routine vehicle maintenence up until last year.
When we purchased the vehicle I checked the door post for the recommended tire pressures, found 30 PSI and checked the tires. They all indicated 33/34 psi cold, so I adjusted them to 30 for a mpre pleasant ride. The tire pressure monitor came on indicating low pressure. I then read the owners manual and was directed to a procedure involving a button on the lower left side of the das panel. There is no such button present. A few days later I stopped by the dealer and they increased the tire pressures to the 34/35 psi range, except the sprare, which I adjusted to the same pressure. The light remains on. The vehicle has been driven approximately 2000 miles since this started. I understand my tire pressure gage has not been ” calibrated” and may be in error, however I doubt the dealers are calibrated either.
I drive with the headlights on all the time. I note that when the unladen vehicle is parked on my nearly level garage floor with the front bumper about 4 feet from the wall that the high intensity headlight pattern, on low beam, shows the drivers side light pattern to be about 6 inches higher than the passenger side pattern. I went to the dealer to have this corrected. The service personnel said they would aim them however I wanted. I believe there is a correct way for this to be done. I did go on line and searched for a method but to do this you need the vehicle parked on a level surface 20 feet from the aiming wall. My driveway slopes downward as soon as it exits the garage, enough that I cant level the vehicle by havinf shims under the rear tires.
The” maintenance required” light came on with the odometer reading 33500 . My owners manual does not show any recommended activity any mileage soon or 1000 miles after that.
I look forward to reading your response.
I AM NOT INTERESTED IN HEARING WHAT THE LOCAL DEALER HAS TO SAY.
Thank you for your response.
Richard Pomeroy
Have recently bought a new yaris sedan, my first toyota because family has had such good results with toyota. Have problem with water dripping onto passanger floor totaly saturating the floor, either from ac condesate or rain. Car is less than 90 days old, bringing it in for service is difficulte due to my wifes disability and time restraints due to me working night shift to be able to help care for my wife. I’ve talked with customer service rep where the car was purchased but so far no help. I feel that normal service is my responcibility but this is toyotas problem and they should either provide a loaner or come and get it to repair it without me having to waste my time waiting for them to find the problem, get the parts to repair, and then fix it, and cost as I would have to get someone to stay with my wife.
John – What you’re saying makes sense – Toyota screwed up when they put it together, so they should come and get it. Unfortunately, that’s not how it works. When you purchase a new car, you tacitly agree to the manufacturer’s warranty conditions. They state that you must bring the car in yourself to get it fixed. If it requires more than 1 days worth of repairs, you should get a rental car. I know that’s not the answer you were looking for.
Richard it’s hard to say what the maintenance required can be on your vehicle without it being put to the computer to read the codes. If you don’t want to hear what the dealer says you’re limiting yourself. Also last oil change you had could’ve been 4800 miles ago and the light comes on letting you know time for an oil change so schedule you an appointment. Also if your highlander is within warranty they can check your headlights to see if they are level. If a certain dealership is giving you a hard time check out a different one. Not all dealers are the same.
I bought a 07 Rav4 with only 11K miles on it a few weeks ago. The lady who
sold it to me,told me she had purchased it new with 50 something miles on it.
The car is black,so here is the problem.While giving it a wash and wax I noticed that around the drivers door handle you can see lines (maybe from
tape)and when your in the sun,you can see a clear difference in the paint
color above and below the handle.The lady swears she was never in an accident and has never had any paint and body work done ever.Why would
she lie,she has nothing to lose.On the other hand,the dealership she purchased it from won’t give me any information at all,because I wasn’t the
original owner.Of course they won’t admit anything either,because then they
would have to spend time and money correcting the problem,am I stuck????
purchase of a new Toyota Ttruck ! Bad practice at Air Port Toyota Alcoa TN. fAILURE TO DISCLOSE fianances to help protect the customer. I was clear when discussing the terms of my deal and they work with me to accomplish this very well. Or at least I thought so until 2 days later when I take my wife up to finish the final paper work of our deal and find out that there is a year longer in terms then we had agree to. My mistake for not looking into the papers harder but you put a certain truss amount into those folks. When I question the terms the Lady just acted like I was wrong. Because I am a stand up person I agree to have my wife sign. I will never purchase another Toyota nor refer anyone else to do so.
Vince did you like the monthly payment? That’s what gets alot of people in trouble when they get very low monthly payments without checking how long you will be paying. These Tundra’s can go for 8 years in a loan.
Bob – Somebody is lying for sure. Still, the dealership is legally prevented from sharing private information (such as when and if a particular vehicle was purchased from their dealership). It’s a stupid law, but the privacy people are often more concerned about some extremely random violation of privacy than they are about common sense. Incidentally, the lady would lie to you simply because she believes you will ask her for some of your money back. My guess – she’s lying. That sounds like a very cheap re-paint, and new Toyota dealers are obligated to make quality repairs to their new vehicles.
I would agree with you Jason on that one. She would loose money for not disclosing all information.
My husband and I bought a brand new 2007 Tundra from a dealership in AZ This April we moved to Alaska and brought the truck with us. On May 1st the transmission failed on our truck (which has less than 10000 miles on it) The Toyota service Dept replaced it and the second transmission failed before the service manager even drove it out of the garage. They replaced the transmission again and a month later we had our truck back. Two days later it was back in the shop with the same warning lights as before and so on. In july the third transmission failed along with the fourth one at the Toyota service Dept. Toyota has had our truck pretty continuously since May 1st and it is now August 4th. Toyota Doess not know how to fix it and have to fly an engineer to alaska to look at. We may be without our truck for alot longer. In the meantime we still have to make payments on a vehicle we cannot even use. Toyota has not even offered to replace the truck or buy it back. I will never buy Toyota again. I feel so disappointed because we chose Toyota for their history of making quaility vehicles.
Terina first Toyota will never come out and just say buy back No manufacturer will file lemon law since they replaced 3 of them and it failed again. This will let them know you are fed up not by words by actions. Buy back isn’t a good choice either. Get replacement. Buy back the dealer will only pay what the truck is worth not what you owe on it. More than likely you will be under and they know this. That’s why at least replacement you won’t lose your butt in a trade in like buy back. Make sure you file a complaint with ODI and NHTSA so this goes on file against Toyota.
Terina – That’s as strong a case as one can have for a lemon law claim. Call your local dealership’s service manager and ask them to get the manufacturer buyback/replacement program started. This sounds like an open-and-shut case to me. You are entitled to a refund or a new Tundra (assuming you have all the documents necessary).
i am looking for email address of CEO of Toyota,Japan.
I would like it to if you get it. PLEASE!!!
Vikram you haven’t written what’s your issues are. I have no idea who is much less # of CEO of Toyota, Japan. I’m not sure even Jason knows.
Vikram – I’ll get you that email address if you can get me the President’s personal cell phone number…
Hi there. I’m an original owner of a 2005 Highlander. On my way home from vacationing, my moonroof was jammed in the opened position. Like Susan Boyd ( comment on April 21st, 2008 ), I was quoted over $3000 to fix it when I took it back to the dealer. I thought this was quite excessive. Instead, I just had them close the roof. It took them 2 days to complete this task. After speaking with the service mgr in a calm & cordial manner, they charged me $110+tax – I’ve read somewhere online that others had to pay approx. $650 – just to close a ‘window’. Jason – do the service dept. provide defect reports back to Toyota – such as jammed moonroof on Highlanders? I believe this may be a manufacturing defect. Maybe they could issue a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) on this…
Les no TSB’s on that. I was there two days ago and printed all TSB’s out. I had the same issue on my 06 Silverado with the moon roof would only close 2/3 of the way and wouldn’t complete the the cycle. This is what the tech tells me with the service rep. It wouldn’t close because I haven’t greased the tracks. Truck was 4 months old. I’m sure it was because I had it opened and I did 80 mph on I-95 and probably caused it to go crooked on the tracks. After I told them the truck was only 4 months old and it was no where on the maintenance guide to do at any intervals, how can you come up with that solution? They didn’t want to talk no more and that told me it’s one sided and what they want to tell you and that’s it. Did they at least tell you what’s wrong or what caused it?
Also Les I have 36,000 miles on my Tundra and I used my 5 windows and sunroof all the time here in sunny florida. I have a 07 Crewmax Limited.
Les – My guess is that Toyota is fully aware of this problem, but since you’re outside warranty, they don’t need to do anything about it. Check out this post about “after warranty assistance” for a suggestion on how to get this problem taken care of:
http://accurateautoadvice.com/.....-warranty/
I bought a new 2006 Corolla in january of 2006. In the past year the entire transmission has been replaced due to mechanical failure of a sensor. Now my vehicle is being repaired again for transmission related problems caused by a fly wheel. I am very concerned. I purchased a toyota to avoid constant maintenance and costly repairs. My vehicle currently has 31000 miles on it and my warranty is about to expire. I am at the point where I want to trade the car in and get a honda. My opinion of toyota’s quality is changing fast. Please advise.
Darius – The best thing to do would be to request a free extension of your vehicle’s power train warranty from Toyota. There’s a chance they’ll grant your request. However, if you’ve lost faith in the car, now is a GREAT time to sell it or trade it. Used Corollas are selling for almost as much money as new ones right now (if you can find a new one to buy). For the same reasons, don’t expect much of a discount on whatever new small car you want to replace it with. Even Ford Focuses are selling for sticker these days! 🙂
We’re not affiliated with Toyota by the way – just in case you didn’t know.
have a 2006 corolla s ,the vinyl coating on dash has recently started peeling in two areas where nothing contacts them . dealer at first offered to replace dash,and i was waiting for part to come in . after three weeks they said they were going to repair problem. i requested they put in writing the problem wouldn’t occur again within reasonable time, now they want to involve toyotas regional representative. car still has warranty remaining. simply put i feel as though i am recieving runaround treatment.
Craig – It sounds like they wanted to replace the dash but Toyota denied the warranty claim. Your instinct to get this things in writing is a good one. My first phone call would be to the dealership’s general manager. Explain to him/her that you’re wondering what’s going on and that you’ve been getting the runaround. Explain to them that you know their “CSI” (customer satisfaction index) score is important, but you’re starting to get frustrated. I bet you’ll get what you were promised.
I bought a 2008 FJ Cruiser from Colonial Toyota in Milford, Connecticut. We have been buying our cars from there for 10 years now. Within the first month of buying the car the driver seat had to be changed because it was loose and making all sorts of noises. After replacing the seat it was still loose. I brought it back to the dealership and they told me well we replaced a 2000.00 dollar seat. I told them there was something wrong with it and the Assistant Manager looked at it and said there was something wrong with the tracking and they can’t replace that. So I asked him what could be done and why it wasn’t fixed correctly the car at this point had 1200 miles on it. He said well your a big guy it could be that. I am 6’3 210 and last time i check there was no weight limit on the seat they should of told me that if there was when I bought it. So after that they said they would try and help me out and get in touch with corporate. That got no where even with the GM. Next when you put the car in drive the car hesitates then jumps into gear and takes off. They said it is suppose to be like that. Next a belt had to be replaced at 10,000 miles due to a noise from the engine which is still happening and Toyota said that the car is suppose to be like that. Next there is a loose piece on the back door and when brought into service they said there was nothing they could do but the piece rattles every time I drive and is very very annoying. The list goes on. The paint on the car is chipping in places where rocks probably couldn’t hit it. They repainted the hood but that’s all they would do. There is so may random noises that come from the car. For four hours driving home from Vermont there was a noise coming from right behind the compass temperature and incline meter unit from the vent. It sounded like one of those radiation detectors. It would start up when I would be going between 60-80 miles an hour. The problem is a lot of these noises occur when I am cruising on the highway for trips that are like 20-30 minutes so when they ask me to duplicate it, its kind of hard but I am not crazy they are there. And recently the driver side window is shaking and the closing properly and you can hear wind coming in. Please help me out. Every time I tell them about a problem they tell me after the hundredth time of bringing it in that its suppose to be like that. PLEASE HELP PLEASE. I saved so much money for this car and wanted it for the longest and now this.
Also I know three people with the same exact car and they don’t have these problems. What can I do.
Saad – Two possibilities jump to mind. One: You’re beating the hell of this FJ off-road. Toyota has found that FJs have an inordinate amount of warranty claims because FJ owners are abusing these vehicles. Two: IF you’re not taking this thing off-road, then the next explanation is that your dealer doesn’t want your business. However, considering how much work they’ve already done for you, I doubt that’s the case. I would guess that you’re being a little hard on it – am I guessing correctly? 🙂
I bought my XB Scion in March-08 and in three weeks it broke down and the dealer told me that I would have to replace my transmission. It took almost 2 month before I got my car back. During this time without my car I was put in a rental and the dealer told me they would pay the charge. When my car was ready I happen to be out of town on business. I was called that the car was ready when I was out of town and I happen to communicate this information to the dealer. I went to pickup my car and notice that it was very dirty with oil stains on hood and doors of the car, I also check the inside of the car and also notice oil stain on the carpet, steering wheel and safety handle on the driver side. I called out the service Tech and asked if this is the way he returns cars to their owners. While taking to the service Tech I happen to run in to the guy who sold me the car. So I start to explain my problem and he tells me not to worry he will take care of it. I notice later that my mats had been cleaned with a strong chemical that turned them a different color. And just recently I notice on my bank statement I was charged for the rental of the car. I want the dealer to take ownership for their mistakes. Why should it be my fualt that it broke down ?
No I am not being hard on it. It’s never been off road. The most off roading its done is two feet of snow on the highway in Vermont. When I took it to get its 15,000 mile service in late July the service manager gave me a run down of my car. He said he has never seen a FJ with this many miles that has the brakes, tires and rotors and interior in such good condition. I got a rating of 8/10 on my brakes 8/10 on my tires and 8/10 on my rotors. I don’t have time to take it off road I work to much. And just yesterday I put my window down and the whole seal fell out. I have no reason to lie about taking my FJ off road or not but it hasn’t seen any trail or anything. I still have the factory tags on it and the original plastic on the mats and the original paper inserts from the dealership. No one has even sat in the back seats. The thing is garaged and washed at least once every two or three weeks when I have time to. And Ted if the dealership has your car more then 30 days you can claim it as a lemon…look at the lemon laws in your state.
Saad – Since you’ve never been off-road, I’d say you’ve got a serious problem. That FJ is in terrible condition. The problems you’re describing are consistent with lots of off roading, so I hope you’ll understand my earlier comments.
My recommendation would be to pursue the lemon law process. The rule in most states is that if the vehicle was in 3 times for the same problem, and that problem was not fixed, you have a lemon. You have to get everything documented to make this happen, so make sure you contact someone in your state familiar with the lemon law (your state’s consumer or dealer board, for instance). Good luck – it sounds pretty bad.
Ted – Was the xB under warranty when it was repaired? If so, you should have no responsibility for the rental car. That’s an oversight on the dealer’s part that should be corrected immediately (if you were under warranty, that is). If not, than the rental would be your responsibility. Now if you weren’t able to bring the rental back on the day the vehicle was finished, then you could be charged for the use of the rental between the time the repair was finished and the day you returned it. That’s a normal and fair practice. As for the stains, that’s a tough one. It’s hard to prove that the stains were put there by the dealer, which is why you had to get the salesman involved to help you prove that the dealership made the mistake. I would ask the same person for new mats too – if they were ruined during the cleaning, they should be replaced. As it says in the article, start with the dealership’s GM.
i sent my verso for a service, and on the morning i took it in i topped up screen wash and checked the condition of my oil, tyres and everything else i thought i should check prior to them doing any work…… then when i picked the car up later that day the invoice stated that they had put screenwash in it.
i spoke to a manager reguarding the fact that there was no way possible for them to fit any screenwash in. and pointed out that they were charging me for work that had not been done. he explained it must have been a computer error simply estimating the work i may have had done.
i reassured him i am not that gullable and that he should just admit they were trying to charge add ons….. he then offered me a 100ml tube of screenwash worth approx
I just want to say thank you for this information. I am in the midst of a horrific nightmare with a Toyota prius/battery situation. Before I reveal my story, I am hoping that we can come to a reasonable resolution.
Eliza my wife owns an 07 Prius what happen to the battery?
Stuart – Good story – way to call them like you see them.
Eliza – Glad we could help. Good luck.
I bought a Toyota Land Cruiser Prado, model GX 2.7 Liter Petrol year 2008 from a Toyota dealer in UAE. I’m looking for the CO2 emissions of the vehicle, but could not get any answer from the dealer so far. The car is not commercialized in the USA nor in Europe where CO2 emission is an important issue. Does anyone have any tip where I can get such information?
Moncef – Here’s a link:
http://www.webauto.de/index.cf.....#038;lg=yu
It says that CO2 emissions are 235 g/km
I have a 2000 Toyota Tundra that was pre-owned. I purchased it in Nov.2004 with 74K miles on it. At the time I purchased it, there was little rust on it. I’m sad to say that there is so much rust on the vehicle, not only on the body but the entire undercarriage is so rusted, it’s flaking off. I’m afraid to drive it for safety reasons. I had a minor front end collision (under $500) damage and my body shop guy told me that he isn’t even sure if he can replace the molding over the left front wheel well because the truck is so rusted, he has nothing to attach it to. I know that the 2000 Tacaoma’s were recalled and “tested” to see if each individual vehicle past the “safety test” where in they use a hammer to see if it leaves a dent in the rust. I know that my Tundra will not pass this test. Do you have any advise for me in pursuing this? I am going to bring it to a Toyota Dealer and insist that they do the safety test on the Tundra. What would be my recourse if it doesn’t pass? Any Help would be appreciated. I only have 88K miles on this truck, I’m now afraid to drive it and couldn’t even sell this truck if I wanted to…..
Kimmie – You’ve got a tough situation going. That truck is far beyond the manufacturer’s limits for warranty against rust, so you’ll have a tough time getting any assistance. Still, it’s worth a shot. In this case, it might make sense to start with Toyota customer service FIRST – the dealer isn’t going to be able to do much for you other than place a call.
Please give some advice and direct me to some help. I bought my 2002 Rav 4 brand new off the dealer’s lot. I have happily driven it for 102,00 miles. Two weeks ago, out of the blue, it started hesitating and bucking and shuddering between 10 and 20 mph, and sometimes when it begins in the morning and sometimes at a stop. It has not died, just acted like it wanted to. took it to my local service guys who diagnosed a need for a reflash, which they don’t do. Took it to a dealer where I live for the first time, having recently moved from Atlanta to St. Paul, Mn. They did the reflash, told me that there had been a recall for an issue with the catalytic converter. Ok. Worked well for one week and then the problem is back, worse than before and with no predictablity. Took it BACK to the dealer and am now told it needs a brand new transmission. ($3,800 or so) Went online and found dozens of complaints of exactly the same problem with 2002 Rav 4s, with different advice given: reflash, replace the ECM, do solenoid work, and then finally, oh, you need a new transmission. Almost all complaints came from owners who had just passed the 80,000 magic mile number, or 8 years, as I have done. Lots of comments that Toyota knows that there is a problem with this specific year and will do nothing. Local dealership told me that if I could collect all of my service records and prove that I had been loyal to a Toyota Dealership with all of my service needs, then they MIGHT be able to help. This was from the manager of the service dept. Funny how he went straight to the offensive. This is my third Toyota and I have been so happy with Toyota until now. A new transmission?? On a six year old car that has had all its work done on it in a timely manner? Please. My last Toyota went to 285,000 miles and was great. Any advice welcome and thanks.
Thanks for the advice. I did call Toyota and they told me that although the Tundra is not part of the Tacoma recall, I could bring it to a dealer for a “safety inspection” which will be of no cost to me. I have an appt. tomorrow. I’m going to press this issue with them, my whole family drives Toyota’s because they’re such great products and they last so long. I should be able to get at least 5-7 more years out of this truck but that isn’t going to happen. How could a whole year of Tacoma’s be effected and not the Tundra’s? They are all manufactered at the same place, if one wasn’t rust proofed, I don’t know how they can say the other was. I’ll let you know how I make out.
We own a 2008 Prius and love it,but my husband had
a experience on the freeway this week that freaked him out. He was making a normal stop and he lost control when the car veered into the next lane on it’s own with the light coming saying he was skidding. The car then returned to normal,but did this again after he had driven another two miles. the dealer checked it out and said they have never heard of this before. So we are concerned if this happens again,but can’t get it under control. has anyone heard of this?
Frank. October 10th 2008 2.47
Just bought a new Toyota Yaris and it just jerks to a stop when I brake
Never had a problem with jerky braking before and have covered 2 milion kilometers.
Is it to do with this:
Vehicle Stability Control (VSC) intervenes when it senses the vehicle is at risk of sliding out of control on a bend or corner. It works by automatically applying the brake to the appropriate wheel, to bring the car back to its intended path.
Would it be an over anxious VSC ?
If it is can I have it disconnected?
Issue with the braking. Hi Frank, we are discovering the same issue with our certified used Yaris. It turned out to be a rusted bolt on the control arm.
Here’s a link to this known issue.
http://www.apa.ca/newsitem.asp?id=510
The bill for this known issue is 3.1k and is not somehow covered by our extended warranty, because the bolt is not insured. It was a design flaw in the control arm which allowed water to collect and easily rust.
Were you ever able to resolve your issue?
Beth – I feel your pain. Having a bad transmission at 100k miles is a brutal reality. First, in terms of diagnosing the problem, it’s pretty common for a dealership to suggest the ‘cheap fixes’ first without ever mentioning the possibility you need a major repair. No one wants to give you the bad news, and they don’t want to come off as negative, fear mongering mechanics. As for the line about “come up with records that you’re a loyal customer,” the dealer is talking about getting some After Warranty Assistance. It’s a long-shot at best. My recommendation would be to call Toyota customer service on this one – you’re so far out of warranty here that they’re the only people who might be able/willing to help. Just don’t expect much. As for getting the Rav fixed, I would suggest you contact a few local transmission shops. $1500 ought to get you going again. The $3800 number is probably for a new transmission, but you might only need a rebuild or rebuilt replacement.
KimmieG – Thanks – good luck.
Jan – I have heard of this before, but not on a Prius. A friend owned an Expedition with a similar stability control system, and every once in a while it would take control. Very scary. It turned out to be an intermittent short in the main wiring harness – about a 1 in a million repair. My advice would be to insist that this is happening in a firm yet reasonable manner. Hopefully someone will listen and try to diagnose this problem a little more thoroughly. Otherwise, do your best to remember exactly when and where it happens next time and get the car to the dealership immediately. They might be able to pull some data from your vehicle’s “flight recorder” and make an assessment. This is a tough one – good luck.
Frank – Not sure what your problem could be, but you might ask your dealer to take a look at the EBD and emergency brake assist systems. Either could be responsible. Just make sure you can replicate the problem yourself, because you’re probably going to need to show the technician how/when it happens.
I have a 2007 Tundra, the engine knocks on start up, the engine revs up 300 rpm when you turn the lights or AC on making it more difficult to stop, the transmission down shifts when you put your foot on the brake, and the steering wheel has a shimmy in it while driving and I can’t get Toyota to acknowledge there is a problem much less fix it.
Having wiered electrical problems (08 Sienna),
Lights coming on the dash board when they should not or not when they shoud. Electrical doors not opening when they shoud. Open/close door beeps not working some times. Lock/unlock beeps not working some times. Radio turnes it self down after a while (CD or radio). Seat belt not connected beep (both sides) does not come on some times when not clicked.
Any suggestions?
Jim T.
I am having a corolla which is 2005 1.8 power steering / power window model already completed 115000 KM ( UAE / Dubai )
I am planning to sell it now,can you please advice me about the major maintenance to be done after 115000 KM ! And this is a dealer maintained car without any accidents.
Rgds
Eby
James – That could be anything – have you already taken it to the dealer?
Eby – No idea. Not familiar with scheduled maintenance on that vehicle. Your local Toyota dealer may be able to help, and you might want to visit Toyota.com.
In January of 2006, I purchased a 2005 Toyota Corolla with 24,000 miles. About two to three weeks ago, I noticed white smoke coming from the tail pipe upon starting it after work. I travel about 17 (highway) miles. And, I noticed that the car seemed to loss power when accelerating.
I scheduled the vehicle for servicing, but ending up having to have it towed to the dealership a day early [a dead battery]. The Service Supervisor told me that the battery was in deed dead [$147.00 to replace], but the bigger problem was the smoke. He indicated that the vehicle was down a quart of oil and there appeared to be significant engine damage. He asked about my oil change habits. I told him that I changed the oil about every 6 months or so. He then asked if I had any of the oil change records. I told him that I have two or three of them from when I took the vehicle to a Jiffy-lube or Brakemax, but I generally changed the oil myself. [Okay, I’m a cheapskate … I can find other things to do with the $30 … like buy a gallon of gas.]
The service supervisor wants $1,000+ to pull off the valve cover and oil pan to look for sludge stating that this would indicate that I had been neglectful in changing the oil. He indicated that if they find sludge, my warranty would be invalid and I would have the bear the cost of the repair.
I purchased the vehicle because of Toyota’s reputation for quality and service and recently bought a second high end SUV, when it appeared that the reputation had been earned … but, now, that I’m having problems, I’m starting to question my choice.
Kevin – In all likelihood, the white smoke you see coming from the tailpipe is the result of a blown head gasket. Based on the other symptoms you describe (loss of power on acceleration, oil missing), I’m 99% on this. The issue I have is with the oil change frequency you mentioned. I don’t work for Toyota, and this website is completely independent, but I think the service manager might be right. If you drive 17 miles to work every day (let’s say that’s round trip and not one way), that’s 85 miles a week. Most people drive about three times that per week, so I’m going to round up to 120 miles a week. After 26 weeks (about 6 months, give or take a few days) you’ve gone 3,100 miles. That’s well within the limits and you should tell the service manager as much. However, if that 17 miles you mentioned is one way, then you’re at more than 6000 miles between oil changes. That’s not good. Either way, the fact is if you change your oil yourself, you need to keep records for this exact purpose. If you can’t prove you changed the oil (and keep in mind any records – even just a receipt for an oil filter – are sufficient), you’re not going to get help. My suggestion is to find your records, and you might want to think back the last few months and ask yourself if you forgot an oil change…that could certainly cause this to happen.
I have had been only able to find two of the oil change records and none of the receipts for the changes I did myself. Any suggestions on how I might get Toyota to mitigate some, if not all, of the cost?
Kevin – I would say that you need to appeal to the service manager. He or she has some discretion to help you (not a lot mind you, but some). If the engine comes apart and there aren’t obvious signs of sludge (likely due to missed oil changes) you’ve got a free repair. Without being negative or confrontational, I would ask the service manager about accounts you’ve found on engine sludge in Toyota engines on the internet (there are quite a few out there – just search “toyota engine sludge”). Perhaps he’ll look at it your way. If you don’t like the answers you’re getting from the service manager, then I would get the GM involved. This might come down to the power of personality, so put on your game face and get these guys on your side by being the nicest, greatest customer they’ve ever met. Good luck! 🙂
Okay … and thanks for the time you have given me, but two more questions.
I spoke with the service manager yesterday and, not to my surprise, he said that the engine is “all gelled and sludged up” and that I need an engine replacement [$5,700].
First, it’s coming down to “proof” that I’ve properly serviced the vehicle. As I mentioned before I generally changed the oil myself … actually my brother-in-law did the oil changes; but I have 2 receipts from a JiffyLube.
The service manager keeps saying that their [the dealership’s] hands are tied; it is the manufacturer who requires the proof of oil changes and the manufacturer who will approve or refuse the repair/replacement. Isn’t this a matter of “mommy” blaming “daddy” for the decision?
Question #1: How likely would it be that the manufacturer/dealership would accept a sworn affidavit from my brother-in-law as proof?
Question #2: How likely would it be that the dealership would accept a Goodwill/Customer Satisfaction argument?
I recognize that dealerships are in the business to make money, but I would think, if for no other reason, customer goodwill would win out seeing as I have bought 2 vehicles from that dealership [~ $45,000] in the past 3 years and have referred several customers … 2 of whom purchased vehicles [> $50,000].
Kevin – I think you’ve got to hit both fronts. The affidavit will help somewhat, as will the appeal to goodwill. Still, the service manager is right in the fact that his hands are somewhat tied. Here’s how a warranty claim works on the dealer’s side: The dealership files a warranty claim, gets a free motor from Toyota using their claim number, and then after the repair has been made they send back the old parts. Toyota then has the option to inspect the returned part(s) and verify the warranty claim was legitimate. I can’t say with certainty just how many parts Toyota’s warranty team inspect, but I can guarantee they take new engine warranty claims quite seriously (if for no other reason than to improve future products). As soon as one of the warranty inspectors sees the sludge in your motor, they’ll nullify the warranty claim and charge the dealership for the repair. If the dealership is going to get this handled, they’re going to have to get it approved with Toyota’s awareness of the sludge. That’s the trick. Have you spoken to the GM yet? Perhaps he or she is friends with someone at Toyota and can get an exception made for you.
Kevin – One more thing. Failing a full warranty reimbursement, you might ask about a re-manufactured engine instead of a brand new one. That might cut the cost somewhat.
No. I have not spoken with the GM yet. I was feeling pretty hopeless in that that is how I suspected the warranty process works … They see sludge and the claim is refused. But let me understand, the claim refusal comes AFTER the repair is done? Well, that gives me pause for hope. It gives me some [not much, but some] leverage in that the manufacturer could grant an exception, or the dealer might [for goodwill/customer satisfaction purposes] be willing to negotiate on the cost.
The $5,700 is for a salvage yard long block engine with 13,000 miles on it. The service manager told me that a new from the factory short block engine would cost $6,200.
My wife was driving a 2003 Camry out of state when the check engine light came on. She took it to a Toyota dealer in Orlando, FL area. They told her it was the catalytic converter and was under warranty, but they had none in stock. She asked them if was safe to drive and would it be safe to drive to our home in Atlanta to get service. They said it was safe to drive and yes she could wait until she got to Atlanta. As they made no repair, she got no paperwork. The technican failed to mentioned and my wife did not realize that the emission system was about 300 miles from going out of warranty and Atlanta is 500 miles away. We have e-mailed and called the service manager about this but get no response and he is never in.
If we just drive into our local dealer he will point out it is out of warranty.
We cannot go back to the dealer in FL, as that is 500 miles away.
1. Does the fact the car was presented for repair while in warranty help us in any way?
2. If yes, how do we get the FL dealer and Toyota to respond?
Or are we out of luck for this be a warranty repair.
Carl I’m suprise they didn’t at least have a paper trail that you were there. They should have one. I had a similar thing with my 92 Sonoma. It had a cracked exhaust manifold and I took it in to price having it done. They stated it would cost about $300. I had to wait till payday. Well when I went in it had 64,150 miles on it. The service writer told me that the warranty went out at 64,000 miles. I told him I was there 2 weeks prior and never was told about the warranty. I pulled out my sheet showing I was there and the mileage was 63,925 miles. They still wouldn’t honor it.I was pretty much pissed off about that. After fixing it I traded it in.
Kevin – You have it correct – the warranty claim is automatically approved at the dealership level, and then verified by the manufacturer after the fact. It’s possible that a factory rep came out to the dealership to take a look and denied the claim in person, but just because a warranty claim has been denied doesn’t mean it can’t be overturned.
Carl – I agree with Mickey that the dealership in FL will have a record. You should be able to call the cashier or dispatcher at that dealership and get a copy of the R.O. Either way, it’s hard to believe that Toyota would deny a warranty claim over a couple of hundred miles (but who knows). However, I might have good news for you: the federal catalytic converter warranty is 8 years or 80k miles, so I don’t think it matters. Unless of course you have more than 80k on your 2003. Still, like I said, 200 miles shouldn’t matter.
Rav 4 Warranty ; is my car still under warranty for a new gearbox i have done 91,000 Km =56,000 miles i live in Spain. Thankyou to anyone who reply”s
six months ago i purchased a reconditioned toyota carina saloon car engine number 4A-L769257 chasis no T210-6002891; a 1996 model from one of the car importers here in Uganda. its been running smoothly.
i took the car for a computerised engine check and it was fine but apparently it doesnt idle.
in the morning, i start the car and let it idle for afew minutes before driving off to work. the problem now is that after i have parked at work[ or anywhere], and i need to start the car again, it simply ignites but the engine can not continue to idle..but instead it keeps going off or spurting for sometime until it picks eventually raves and normalies. in such i cases i have had to start it while stepping on the accelerating pad so as not to go off. fortunately it does not go off while am driving. [as yet].
i have tried several mechanics but none seem to have an answer. what could be the problem? please advise.
I have an Avalon 2007 with 25000+miles. I’m having problems with my GPS. When I purchased the car I was given a “quick” demo on how to use. On short trips, like in the city it seems to work OK but on long trips it screws up. It seems it doesn’t like toll roads. I brought it back to the dealer after about 2000 mi. & the service manager checked it out & said all OK. I went on another long trip(250mi) & still had a problem. Someone told me maybe the GPS was not set to accept toll roads. Brought it back to the dealer & sure enough that was one on the problems. He set it and I just came back from another trip & still have the same problem. It still doesn’t like toll roads. Has anyone had a problem with their GPS. I paid big bucks for this an am not satisfied.
Elizabeth – Bummer. No idea what it could be…there are a lot of possibilities. The best recommendation I can make is to watch your repair costs carefully – these tough to diagnose problems can add up to more money than the vehicle is worth. Good luck.
Charles – That’s a tough one. First, there’s an “avoid toll roads” preference that must be enabled or disabled, as well as “avoid highway” and other options. As for inaccuracies, Toyota offers map updates, but they may or may not include all the new info. So long as you’re still under warranty, you can try and make the case that the vehicle isn’t functioning correctly. Choose a specific route that you know causes the GPS to malfunction, request the dealer repair the GPS for that specific route, document any failures to fix the problem, and then once you’ve got three failed repairs, you have grounds for a lemon law claim. My guess is that you’ll get a new map data set before it gets that far. Good luck.
Jason the other day I had a check engine light on my truck. My wife had the week off for thanksgiving and she wanted to take it in for me. Well you know they have to do diagnostics to find what cause the code. Well it was the gas cap not sealing and caused a vapor deal with emissions and that triggered it. Well they replaced the cap free and told the wife no charge for the diagnostics since we are great customers for them by doing all maintenance at the dealers vice jiffy lube. Well since he mentioned that the wife said I needed an oil change also. So she didn’t asked me but told them a regular oil change. I’ve been using synthetic from day one. When she called me at work and wanted to supprise me about it. I told her great and thanks but I use synthetic not regular oil. I told her don’t worry about it that it’s nothing and if I want to switch back I will. My wife hates to drive the truck in the first place because of the power. Well she calls me again and tells me she’s kinda lost and she was at mile marker 309 on I-10. She was looking for I-295 north which was only 2 miles from the dealer. I lost it laughing so much. She was 50 miles west of her turn. So I told her at mile marker 300 is Lake City just turn around and come back. I also mention I guess she likes driving the truck now. She said just on the interstate only. Main thing when you do your maintenance at the dealers as we did for both vehicles they take care of you. I’m at 45,500 miles.
Mickey – I can’t agree more – when you build a relationship with your local dealership you often get free parts and service – we used to do it all the time at the dealerships I worked at. The fact is good customers are hard to come by and important to keep happy.
I have a question on “certified” toyota used car purchases. Is one of Toyota’s requirements (either lawfully or policy) for labeling as a certified vechicle include the windshield? In other words, must the windshield be a Toyota brand or can it be a generic brand? I just purchased a 2008 4runner as certified, has 20,000 miles. All the windows have the Toyota brand name embedded in the glass, with the exception of the windshield. Please, any assistance is appreciated.
Rick – There’s no requirement that a replacement windshield be the “official” Toyota brand glass. Still, Toyota would likely frown on any dealer that used non-OEM glass in a certified used vehicle. The cost difference (about $100) isn’t that substantial, but every dollar counts these days in the auto business. If you complain to Toyota, you probably won’t get anything, but if you’re upset and you want to cause a little trouble for the dealer, go for it. You might try asking the dealer for something free first (like a set of winter floormats maybe) before you complain – they might give you something to buy your silence! 🙂 Good luck.
We have a 2008 corolla that we purchased in aug 2007. Like everyone else who has posted in this blog, we expected more from Toyota and got short changed. We had a couple of problems with our car and was fixed to a certain extent. One problem that we are facing right now has frustrated us the most. I noticed a couple of scratches that looked like the wiper blades made them, possibly due to some debris. I took the car to the dealer and asked him if there was anything that could be done. The service rep took the car inside to get the windshield cleaned well so we can have a better look at the scratches. When he got the car out there were a million scratches on them. They were in every direction possible and some were in circular motions too. We wash our car through the touchless car wash and we clean the windshield while filling up gas on our long trips using the windshield cleaners in the gas station. You can imagine my surprise when I saw so many scratches on the windshield. The service manager was involved in this talk and he gave me the number of the auto glass guys so he will have a better idea as to how to deal with this. When I met the auto glass guys they said there is no fault with the wiper but these are scratches due to particles stuck to the wiper. When I spoke to the service manager again he said the Toyota rep would take a look and since he is out of town the second in command guy would take care of the meeting. Our opinion was, for a one year old car to have so many scratches it should have gone through serious scotch brite car washes. The meeting took place and when the toyota rep asked the service rep could it be bad wiper or bad glass, the service rep said neither. I told the toyota rep that the auto glass guys are sure it was scratched by the debris caught between the wiper and the glass but they cannot 100% rule out bad glass. The service rep said we are 100% sure it is not bad glass and that it is our fault that we are trying to pin it on toyota. I could have expected it from the toyota rep but when the service rep undermined us in front of the toyota rep we really did not know what to do. The toyota rep said he is going to take the word of the service rep and if we still have problem we can talk to the national service center and get a third party involved. We are furious with that service rep. He really did not have to sabotage it for us. We were not expecting anything at all to begin with. We have insurance we can take care but insulting us was totally unnecessary. Since we did not start the fight we want to finish it. What should be our next step?
Pryia not sure if you can get help on the windshield. It’s hard to prove that the windshield was bad by scratches from the maker not debris. Do you do your maintenace at the dealer? Reason I ask is the dealer where I am at does go out their way to help me and the wife since we bought an 07 Prius Hybrid Limited, and an 07 Tundra Crewmax Limited in July 07. We do all maintenance at the dealer and twice so far they covered things under warranty which wasn’t covered. I have 46,000 miles on my truck and the wife took my truck in for a check engine light and they have to run diagnostics on it. That there cost anywhere from $80 – 100 dollars. No charge was it. That’s why I ask. They don’t want to lose good customers. Now you state insurance will cover it. Why take it to Toyota to see if they will replace it when your insurance can? You definitely have an uphill battle but I don’t see the results going your way.
Priya – The next step is to speak with the GM at the dealership. However, I think you’re probably barking up the wrong tree. Windshield glass is incredibly easy to scratch. A windstorm can pit the glass, minor debris (sometimes too small to see), can and will scratch your windshield, and the wiper blades will scratch it if they aren’t clean or if they’re used when they’re dry (say in a light sprinkle of rain). I’m not trying to point the finger, but I would bet good money that the scratches in the windshield came from the gas station window washers you use. I’m not sure if you’ve seen this first hand, but many people use those window washers to clean off exceptionally dirty vehicles and they don’t do a very good job. Unless the washer fluid and the washer are brand new, they have a lot of dirt in them and that dirt will scratch your windshield (either when you scrub or when you squeegee). My recommendation would be to ignore the scratches – if you can see out of the windshield, there’s not point in replacing it. Something (a rock, gravel, wind, dirty wiper blades, gas station washer, etc.) can and will damage your glass, and I would wait until the last possible minute to fix it. Just consider the windshield a wear item and move on…at least that’s what I would do. As for the service rep, it sounds like he acted like an idiot. If you complained about anything, I would suggest that it be him. I think that he made a mistake in the way he handled your concern (he should have told you what I just told you) and it should be shared with his boss. Window glass is fragile, and that should have been his response. Instead, he was afraid to tell you how it is so he tried to pin it on the Toyota rep. Lame – and bad service writing too.
I have had a 2007 Toyota Yaris for 1 year 9 months. For dependability reasons, both my wife and I purchased new toyotas in 07. I travel extensively for business (66000 miles) and had been pleased with the economy and performance of the car. Last week my brake light came on followed shortly thereafter by my abs light. My dealer diagnosed the problem as TWO bad abs sensors and billed me almost $900.00 with labor to replace them. I was given no explanation for the failure of the parts except that it happens. This is particularly troubling since I still have my original brake pads and they just passed inspection so it is certainly not a problem brought on by brake abuse or overuse. My appeal to the dealer for relief was unsuccessful as was my appeal to Toyota via a toll free # that I was given. The rep. from the toll free office did not even have the courtesy to call me back. He had someone from my local dealership do so. I know, and was reminded several times, that my vehicle is out of warranty, but I believed, as I was told when I bought the car, that Toyota stood behind their product and that I could expect 100,000+ trouble free miles. Although I have not had my yaris serviced at my dealership ($$$), all required maintenance has been performed. This is moot though since the abs sensor is not a servicable item anyway. My case # is 200812180101. I am extremely upset about this and suspect that I will beat this issue like a dead horse in any way that I can. I suspect it will ultimately lead me to a Hyundai dealership
David – First, please know that we’re not affiliated with Toyota. We provide some tips and advice based on our experience and a desire to help people. Anyways…here’s what I think about your situation. Wheel speeds sensors (ABS sensors) are a pretty common failure item. They are sensitive little electronic devices that basically feel every bump and jolt in the road (they’re mounted on the wheels). They’re often drenched in water during rain or snow storms, and they can get caked in dirt. To ad insult to injury, they must be replaced in pairs (even if only one is malfunctioning). Wheel speed sensors have come a long way in terms of dependability, but the fact remains that they can and do fail pretty frequently. In fact, I suspect the dealership’s lack of an explanation (and a great example of bad service) is simply because they see this failure so frequently. Not to be argumentative, but if you decide to quit Toyota because of wheel speed sensors, you’re going to quit every other automaker at some point because it happens across the board. Besides, most of these expensive electronic parts are made by the same suppliers, so switching to another brand of car probably won’t solve your problem. In terms of getting relief, ABS wheel speed sensors are considered a wear item. I would suggest you try and get some AWA, but since you’ve already paid, and since it doesn’t sound like you do your regular service at the dealership, you’re not going to have much success. Bottom line – it sucks. But it’s how it goes – ABS is great when it works (it can save your life), but it’s one more thing that can break. Sorry I can’t be more helpful.
Does anyone have a problem with mice getting into a brand new 2008 Toyota Corolla dispite having blocked an open air inlet hole with mesh. The dealer showed this area after their investigation. The problem still exists. I am very unimpressed. I have never had such a proble with any other make. This is my first Toyota and the last as well. I shall switch back to Chevy.
Gee – Sorry to hear about the mouse – I hope it’s OK. If not, I hope it wasn’t too gross (I can tell you some stories…). The problem here isn’t your Corolla, by the way, it’s where you’re parking your vehicle! Mice are FAMOUS for crawling into tiny little areas in engine compartments. Denver International Airport is out in the middle of nowhere, and people who park their vehicles in the long term storage lots (adjacent to large open fields) are warned about the possibility of damage or destruction caused by field mice and other vermin. The mice aren’t smart enough to realize that crawling into the engine might be bad for their health, unfortunately, and they commonly chew wires and build nests wherever they can. Chances are good you had some mice living in your old car, but they didn’t ever cause any real damage or get your attention. While I would certainly agree that openings mice can crawl into should probably be covered at the factory, most people don’t have a problem. Toyota doesn’t cover these holes because it saves them money. Ditto for Chevy and everyone else. The bottom line – your Corolla is NOT mouse proof. As far as I know, no vehicle on the market today is either. 🙂
Gee if that’s the only reason you’re switching back to a chevy, all I can say is happy trails.
Bought a 06 Tundra crewcab , great truck.But now it has developed a strange moaning/roaring whild braking.It doens’t sound brake related but suspension related.How do I find out if it was due a recall?
I have found that there was a recall for this year model, for faulty lower ball joints.
Thing is there is no info I can find on the net.
No vin# list etc.
Help lol
I own a 2008 Toyota Tundra Double Cab SR5. When I listen to the FM radio, it fades in and out and there is sometimes static. I have taken it to the dealership about 4 times. Three times, they said they couldn’t duplicate it. But as soon as I picked it up and drove it home, I noticed the problem. The fourth time, I took a ride with the service manager. He ordered a brand new radio and it was installed. The day I picked it up and drove it home I was no more than two blocks away and I noticed the same problem. I took it back and they checked out everything (antenna, etc.) and said all was fine. I now have an appt. to ride with the service manager again to explain the problem and then he will contact Toyota and see what they want to do. Has anyone had the same problem? I know its a small problem but I drive alot and listen to the radio but it is so annoying and I end up listening to satellite or a cd. Also, why does the satellite have to be turned up to 30-35 on the volume to sound good? They installed an exterior sirius antenna but still has a low sound volume? Any advice? Thanks!!
I have XM and at 30 it’s very loud to me. I use that level when I’m driving 70mph on the interstate with all windows down and sunroof opened.
Andrew – Very strange. The radio likely isn’t the issue, so it’s got to be power or signal. Stay with the service manager on this, he seems to be willing to work with you. Good luck.
I have an ’09 Corolla S. I bought it December 3rd, so I’ve had it for just over a month. I take it home the first day to see that there was a dent in the front bumper, which I did not put there. I call my sales woman and she says that the dealership will fix the problem. A couple days before I take it in to get assessed, my engine light comes on. They solve the engine light problem and fix the dent, but they give me a half-filthy car back (they only cleaned the part they had to fix). A week ago, my engine light comes on AGAIN. I take it in, they tell me that the computer needs to be replaced AND that my radiator is leaking. The computer will take 3-4 weeks to come in from Japan and they have to keep my car until they get the radiator in. I’ve owned this car for 39 days and the amount of problems I’ve been having is unacceptable. I live in Canada, is it possible that this car is a lemon and that I can get a new one?
Approximately 3 months after purchasing my Toyota Solara the paint began to chip from my hood. My car was taken in to Toyota and inspected, and the customer relations manager’s appeased me with “it’s due to the shape of the car.” He stated that rocks are easier to hit the hood because the car is low to the ground and that they couldn’t do anything about it. As a physical chemist,I implied that rocks hitting the hood of my car, or any car for that matter,should only have a small effect on large areas of paint chipping from the hood unless the paint is of poor quality with limited coating. The customer relations manager replied, “we are not discussing a Mercedes, but a Toyota, and that Toyota could not guarantee the quality of paint that is on the car.”
Heather a lemon car has to go 3x to the dealer for the same issue. They get a 4th shot and you go from there. It can’t be 3 different problems. As you stated the check engine light twice. Was it the same issue?
Italy all vehicles I know get rock chips on the front end and hood. I had a nice chip on my hood of my Tundra right pass the bug shield. It happens to all manufacturers. The paint they use now has to be enviromental type stuff so it isn’t as good as the 80’s. What gets me is when I complained the same thing but on my rear painted bumper on my Sonoma. Didn’t know rock chips can hit the back bumper and peel the paint.
Italy – The customer relations manager had no business saying “you didn’t buy a Mercedes.” Still, the paint is not the issue. The bottom line is that rock chips are caused by rocks, and there’s nothing that Toyota can do to protect your paint from chipping. If the paint were really flaking off in huge chunks all by itself, the area of the hood where paint is “falling off” would look like cracked glass. So, if the paint on the hood is smooth, the most logical explanation is rocks and sand. Make sure to stay far behind big trucks and SUV’s – their aggressive tire treads kick up bigger than normal road debris – and remember the old one car length for every 10 mph rule. As for getting your rock chips fixed, the dealership should be able to refer you to a paint touch-up expert that will make your car look ALMOST brand new for about $75.
Heather – How frustrating! A new car and you’ve got to replace a computer! Talk about a one-in-a-million. As Mickey said, you’re not in lemon-law territory yet (and to be honest I don’t know if Canada has a lemon law). So, it’s sounding like you’re going to have to endure this business. I would suggest you ask the dealer to “cannibalize an in-stock unit” for the part you need – that way you don’t have to wait 3 or 4 weeks and they don’t have to pay for a rental car for that long either. Seems like a win-win.
Get this one,
I bought a 2007 Camry SE V6 with 11,000 miles on it – Certified used and 3 weeks later found out it had been wrecked bad enough to have the rear quarter panel, passenger door and bumper replaced and repainted. Then the dealership repainted the hood and front bumper and rear bumper again because of supposed ‘rock chips’.
When I confronted the dealership they really wouldn’t do anything for me so I tried getting ahold of corporate to let them know, they gave me a big run around saying I would have to go back to the dealer to solve any problem but they wont return my phone calls now.
The dealership told Toyota Corp. I wrecked the car had it fixed and am complaining about the problems that I caused. Needless to say I was pretty pissed by them telling me I wreck my car because I know I didn’t wreck it. The carfax comes up clean, it was owned by one other person besides me. I think the dealership doesn’t want to get caught with a car that they should not have certified because of all the problems so they are doing everything in their power not have the blame put on them.
What should I do next?
Stung – That’s a tough one for sure. The dealership is supposed to inspect the car carefully for signs of a wreck, but if the repair was made properly it’s hard (albeit not impossible) to find. Besides, I’m 99% certain that Toyota will allow it’s dealers to certify a car that’s been in an accident so long as the damage was repaired correctly. Not to take sides, but I’ve also seen dealers re-paint bumpers and hoods due to scratches and paint chips, so their explanation doesn’t sound completely out of line. If the repair is poor, or if there’s damage that hasn’t been fixed, that’s one thing. But if you’re upset about buying a used car the previous owner wrecked and then properly repaired, that’s something else. Still, at some point in the process you were given the impression your Camry was almost perfect. My suggestion would be to a) figure out exactly you want from the dealer and b) speak with the dealership’s general manager about the fact that you were led to believe the car was like new. If he or she is smart, they’ll offer you something of value that won’t break the bank, but will make you feel better about the transaction. Still, all in all, this is par for the course when buying a used car (even a certified used car). None of them are perfect, unfortunately. Good luck.
I bought a new 2006 Prius in January, 2006 and love the car; no problems until a couple of weeks ago. The six-cd changer, with six cd’s loaded, suddenly died in the midst of changing from one cd to the next and presented a “CD ERROR” message. It’s impossible to either play or eject any of the cd’s.
I brought the car to the dealer from which I’d bought it and they apparently removed the radio/cd unit and looked at it, then told me they couldn’t get the cd’s out or repair the unit there at the dealership. They could send the entire unit to someplace in Florida where they could remove the cd’s and repair the unit, then ship it back to me, for $350-$400; OR if I prefer, they could sell me a refurbished unit for $389, and eventually when they got around to it they’d get the cd’s back from the place in Florida and return the six cd’s to me. The cd’s are from a library audiobook, so I’ll have to pay for them if I don’t get them out of the unit. However, this isn’t what bothers me as much as the high cost of repairing/replacing the unit. The radio still works fine and I’m considering just forgetting the whole thing and buying an MP3 player to download audiobooks from the Library! But then I’m afraid there will be an issue when I go to sell or trade the car and there’s a broken CD changer with cd’s in it. The three-year warranty is barely over, but I have 48,000 miles on the car so the mileage is too high for the 36,000 mile warranty; still, the number of miles shouldn’t affect the cd player!! They told me a brand-new radio/cd player would cost $1,100, so I should consider $389 a bargain for the refurbished one!! I feel this is a huge ripoff and mind-boggling that they can’t remove the cd’s without destroying the unit. Do you think this would be a valid complaint to bring to the regional manager? Thanks for your advice.
i am trying to start a toyota camry with an anti-theft system. when i turn the key nothing happens. i tried jump starting it but that did not work either. is there something special i need to do to de-activate the anti-theft system.
Lee I had cd’s stuck ina stereo cd player in about the same way you have. So it does happened. Had cd’s stuck in my 03 F-150 before. Good thing they were recored cd’s because it wasn’t a big lost. Yes I got back my cd’s from Ford but totally damaged. Like I said it happens to both car and stereo cd players. You may ask for help with the regional manager. The refurbish cd player are cd players like yours get fixed and resold. This happens also all over. Hopefully you can get help you seek. I do all maintenance on both my 07 Crewmax Limited and 07 Prius Hybrid Limited at my dealership. I haven’t had an issue with the Prius yet and the Tundra I had two times the dealer step in and paid for an item even that I’m at 48,750 miles. As it was mentioned to me they want to keep me as a customer.
Lee – Everything the dealership told you is correct, and I have to say it’s entirely screwed up. Without getting up on a soap-box, auto dealerships MUST learn to recognize the realities of the after-market. $1100 for a new 6 disc is outrageous considering you can buy an after-market in-dash Nav/DVD/6-disc combo unit for a few hundred less. It’s just dumb. Anyways…my suggestion is to visit your local stereo shop. They’ve seen this problem before (factory 6-discs are NOTORIOUS for this very problem) – they should be able to get your CD’s out as well as install a nice after-market unit that will have more resale value than a stock stereo…and it will cost less too. You can get a very nice stereo head unit (one that plays MP3’s and hooks up to your current MP3 player) for about $200 installed.
I have a 2003 Camry with 99 K on it. I have engine noise which was confirmed by the dealer to be an intake manifold problem. I have found out from my own mechanic that there is a bulletin out on this problem & if I had brought the car back within a certain time frame ( for which I new nothing about) they would have repaired the problem at n/c. Because it is past this timeframe they won’t honor there free fix. 1 other thing is I had the car in for warranty work twice in that timeframe for other problems but they said nothing about this possible manifold problem which at the time I was not having.
Mike sorry to hear your woes about the camry. Not all cars had the intake problem so no dealer will advertise it unless you specified that as a problem. Hate to hear news late after you surpassed the mileage. I have two instances involving my 97 Thunderbird and 92 Sonoma. Both had issues after the 36,000 mile warranty. On the Thunderbird my intake manifold cracked and the car wouldn’t idle. They told me it would be covered under a warranty ford put out no one knew and it was for 150,000 miles and 8 years on the manifold. I had 87,000 miles. Glad it was covered but being the fact antifreeze leaked out it cracked the plastic covers on the radiator which wasn’t covered and it cost alot to replaced. On the Sonoma I went in with 63,875 miles for a cracked exhaust manifold. I was told it would cost $300 to replace. So I had to wait till I got paid to replace it. One week later I went back with 64,047 miles on it to replace the manifold just to be told I could have replaced the manifold under warranty which was for 64,000 miles. I was beyond myself on that and showed them I was in a week before and the cost estimate and no one mention the warranty. Bottom line they wouldn’t honor the warranty even though I was there. SO I traded it in right away for that Thunderbird I mentioned earlier. I had to chalk it down for experience and that’s why I constantly monitor it. Had my 07 twice had repairs that wasn’t under warranty covered. First being I broke two studs off the driver’s rear tire and one was a Toyot lock set and they replaced the lock set ($80) under warranty. The other was I was around 40,000 miles and had a check engine light come on and they replaced the gas cap and no charge for the diagnostics which is another $80+. I do all maintenance at the dealership so they want to keep me going there so they covered it.
Mike R – I hate to say it, but it’s the nature of the beast. Toyota (and all the other manufacturers) release TSBs (technical service bulletins) that describe vehicle issues that the manufacturer is aware of. Often times, these TSBs indicate that IF a vehicle has the problem described, it can be serviced free of charge whether it’s in warranty or not. Unfortunately, this offer for free service doesn’t last forever. Dealerships can’t tell customers about the problem either – if a dealership has a higher-than-average number of “free” TSB repairs, Toyota (and all the other manufacturers) start to look very closely at every little warranty claim. While Ford, GM, and Toyota will never admit this, the writing on the wall is that dealerships shouldn’t tell their customers about TSBs.
I have a 2008 Sienna. The tires on this van are dangerous because they
give no traction in snow and or ice. This is hazardous to my family.
My daughter bought a brand new 2005 scion tc and has had all the maintaince done at the local toyota dealership. she pulls into the dealer hands them the owners manuel and says do what the book say for the mileage I have. The car was serviced at 62000 miles now it has 63000 and a blown engine. seems the belt came off while interstate driving and the car overheated before she could safely exit the interstate. the car was towed to a different dealer and between the dealer that has the car and the servicing dealer and the rep at scion they have determined it’s operator error. and according to the rep at scion there is no where to go for a second opinion. I am 100% sure I am being screwed. with no kisses. what can I do?
I have driven Toyotas since the 70s. Never owned another vehicle. After my experience with a shadey dealer on the southside of Indianapolis, I am likely to never get a new vehicle from Toyota again. I was quoted a price of $27,900 for a vehicle, made a deposit of $200, returned to the car store to get it and found out the deal had been vetoed and the new price was $29,900. Recognizing their error, the general manager offered the SUV at 29,200 – still a far cry from 27,900. By the time I found out, my wife had sold the vehicle she was driving, anticipating the new one. we are now a one-car family, getting around Indianapolis in my Avalon. For the first time, I’m ashamed of the carmaker that I’ve bragged on for years. If I receive no satisfaction, I will make it my mission to let everyone within my vast realm of acquaintances – i am a member of the working media – know this abysmal story.
Vernon Toyota didn’t make the screw up the dealership did. Don’t blame a manufacturer on a dealer hosed job. Not being a cheerleader for Toyota but different dealerships for some reason operate different. If you have that on paper the price offered before veto they should abide by it. If not contact corporate. You can’r blame the manufacturer on how the dealer works to sell the vehicles. Take it to corp and see what goes.
Greg – I’m not sure that I understand. The dealership won’t replace the engine (even though it’s covered under warranty) because of “operator error?” How is it possible to erroneously nuke a motor? Is it a stick-shift? Did someone forget to change the oil? Has it been raced? These are all questions that I would be asking the dealership and my daughter if I were you. The answer is likely a lot more complicated than “operator error” on the dealership’s part, and I highly doubt that “the car overheated before she could safely exit the interstate” is the whole story too (I say that because I was a teenager once). Still, in any case, this is a simple matter of getting Scion to replace the motor. Unless they have evidence of abuse or neglect, they have to honor the warranty. Time to start following the process I outlined in the article.
Vernon – I feel your pain. Still, as a member of the “working media” myself, I think you’re off base. Toyota isn’t the problem – your local dealer is.
[…] warranty for sure in this case. Here in our Tech Article section is the instructions for adjusting. Toyota Customer Service: Tips for Getting Your Problem Solved | Tundra Headquarters . com Contact Toyota National Customer Care if the Dealership is being stubborn. Toyota […]
Hello, I just recently bought a 2009 scion tC which has just over 2200 miles on it. 2 days ago my car starts acting weird. It felt like the clutch was not engaging fully. I called the Dealership that I purchased the car from and told them I would be bringing it in the next morning. In order to get the car home and to the dealership the next morning, I had to use higher RPM’s to travel since the clutch was not fully engaged. When I get to the dealership they look at it and say since there was evidence of high RPM’s and that they will not be hororing the warranty. They are ordering a new flywheel to fix my tc and they say it will cost $1,440. Should I talk to the GM about them not honoring the warranty? Or what can I do? Is this a known problem?
Nathan – What you’re describing is not a known problem. In my mind, the only possible explanation is a mechanical failure. Still, it is your responsibility to have a tow truck come and pickup your vehicle in order to prevent further damage if and when you have a problem. Ultimately you need to find a way to prove that the clutch was damaged as a result of some other problem…but what that could be I have no idea. The dealership is supposed to help you – ask them nicely to look again. There’s got to be a better explanation for what’s happened.
The dealership said there is pieces of the flywheel coming off and the clutch needs to be replaced also. They wont honor the warranty because of “evidence of high RPM’s” I had a “Quality Vehicle Inspection” on 1/7/2009 in which they found nothing wrong. They never mentioned ware on the tires or residue on the flywheel which is their evidence for the high RPM’s. Yes I have spun my tires a few time getting used to the new car, but I don’t burn out… I talked to the dealership’s Service Associate and he was no help, all he did was accuse me of racing my new car… I talked to the GM and all he did was say what the SA told him… I called Scion and they said they cant do anything and to talk to the dealership… I called Toyota directly and they said there was no way they can help me ether… Does Toyota/Scion have no control over the dealerships with their name? Who can help me?
Nathan – What you’re describing sounds almost impossible and I can understand the dealership’s position. Still, it’s possible that the flywheel came apart somehow. What other evidence does the dealership have that points to racing?
They have told me about no other signs of me racing. I’ve been out of a car for 6 days. Hopefully today I can talk to the owner of the dealership… Anyone else that might be able to help me? Should I go to the media/a lawyer?
Sorry the above post is from me, I forgot to enter the information.
I have a 2005 Tundra Double cab. I recently had a 30,000 mile major service plus fuel injection service. After service my truck seems to have a slight bogging sound and slight hesitation at low to mid rpms. Also when I turn the air conditioner on seems to have an eratic idle.But it seems to run a lot better in the morning cold air. I have brought back a couple times and they have checked with computer and keep telling me everything is fine. They are trying to work with me but just cant seem to find the problem any suggestions.
Dear Sir,
I purchased 2007 Toyota Avelon Limited from Lou Fusz Toyota about 16 months ago. Only after 20K miles I am having serious problems with this automobile and there is noise in moon roof whenever driving it rattles. Front end seems like it is going fall off the car. I did own another 2001 Avalon – purchase brand new – never had these issues – As it was asssembled in Japan. This one seems like a lemon from Kentucky. I am extremely disheartened by this automobile. After paying $37000.00 dealer will not give a loaner vehicle where as other brands – GM – Infinity – Lexus give loaner vehicle while automobile is being repaired. After requesting for a lonaer dealer told me Lexus and Toyota are two different class of vehicles. I wish I had known that Toyota is considered cheap/low class vehicle by dealers. I am extremely disappointed with the over all picture. I have always owned Toyota but now I feel that its quality is not getting any better.
Greately disappointed customer.
Dave Seehra
David was the car going to take longer than a day to fix? I had Ford and GM give me a loaner to fix both of my trucks when I had to take it to the shop. I don’t see where the dealer is coming from. Is it a possible 2 or 3 hour fix?
Casey – I don’t have any idea what that could be – there are a lot of possibilities. Could be something simple like a bad tank of gas, could be more complicated. Until the engine sets a code, it’s pretty tough to diagnose. You can ask about a data recorder – that might be a way to help figure out what’s going on – but my guess is that would be overkill. Make an effort to try and figure out how to replicate the problem consistently, then show the dealership’s technician exactly how this problem occurs and you might have some luck.
Dave – The standard practice is to give a loaner car if a vehicle is expected to be in the shop for 8 hours or more. Otherwise, Toyota won’t compensate the dealership for a loaner, so the dealership has to decide if they want to pay for a car for you or not. I can tell you that since 2001, the number of manufacturers offering loaner cars has greatly diminished. With the current crisis in the auto industry, it’s almost impossible to get a loaner for a non-premium brand (excluding when the vehicle is down for one day or longer). Premium brands offer loaner cars because they built that into the price – not to be argumentative, but the Lexus version of the Avalon is a de-contented LS with a base MSRP of $64k. The LS is comparable to your Avalon in terms of size, albeit nicer. I’m not saying that you’re not entitled to premium service, or that you”re not entitled to getting your problems fixed, but you’ve got no leg to stand on comparing the loaner car services of your $37k Avalon to Lexus when the most comparable vehicle Lexus is $60k+. The $20K dollars you saved when you bought the Avalon buys a lot of rental car days, right? 🙂
***
Anyways, the best way to get the rattle in the roof fixed is to ride with a technician. Every dealership has a NVH (noise vibration and harshness) tech that’s quite good at finding rattles. He or she uses a stethoscope, and they’re often the most well-compensated and experienced tech in the building. If you can get one of them to ride with you around the block, show them where the rattle is, and they’ll fix it. If your relationship with this particular dealership has deteriorated to the point where you’re no longer interested in working with them (or vice versa), then try the next Toyota dealer in your area.
I own 2004-Toyota 4-Runner. I view Toyota as an excellant vehicle. My car is almost showroom quality after 100,000 mi. My problem and after researching further, seems to be a Toyota problem. I noticed a passenger airside dash crack of approx. 1 inch in length and two days later it was aprox. 6 inches long. This vehicle has never had accident , airbag has never been deployed. There are numerus complaints listed on-line with several pictures posted showing identical cracks , same location as mine. I brought my car to Toyota dealership where i purchased it with I might add a quite expensive warranty to go along with it for 5 years. I am told my cracked dash is cosmetic and can not be covered in my warranty. Research dictates differently, I see a major SAFETY ISSUE. With so many complaints against the cracked dash issue of Toyota Product, why does Toyota not deem it appropriate to investigate further what is obviously a Manufacturer Default in this product. I have contacted my local Toyota Dealership and requested my dash complaint be part of my customer information , as I feel it a safety issue and I want it as material proof to justify any lawsuit that may incur caused by this Toyota Cracked Dash Issue. I f you have any information and help I would much appreciate it. Thank You
Dixie your vehicle is 5 years old and you’re over 100,000 miles. You have a lifetime warranty? I haven’t seen a warranty from Toyota other than a lifetime one have over 100,000 mile warranty. Do you do your maintenance at your dealership? If not then you really can’t expect alot from the dealer unless they have a TSB or a recall. You won’t have a recall and unlike you stated the dash isn’t a safety issue and it won’t be a recall because it isn’t a safety issue. All manufacturers will tell you the same about it being cosmetic. That’s what it falls under. The problem you have and with Toyota, you have to prove you didn’t neglect it or hit it or slap the dashboard etc. Now proving that is going to be a very long uphill battle for you. Still file the complaint and get ahold of a factory rep to find out some more info about the crack. Trust me I know what you got to go through and how you feel about it. I had an 06 Silverado Ext Cab LT3. 11x I had to replace my headliner because GM knew it was a defect. They also knew it wasn’t a safety issue either so I couldn’t get no resolution on it. I went through arbitration and lost with that on the lemon law. I asked just to replace the truck and the owner of the dealer told me in a email that I will never get a new truck because of the headliner. He was right. I’ll never get another chevy in my life time now. So if they go under ohh well.
Dixie – I understand your frustration. It’s one thing if your dash cracks randomly for no reason – that’s just bad luck – but if it cracks because the part or component has a design or manufacturing flaw, that’s another. To be honest, I don’t know how this crack could be considered a safety issue. Perhaps I don’t understand. Still, it’s frustrating.
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As Mickey said, you’re well outside of warranty and there’s no recall for this issue, so you’re likely stuck. Toyota customer service (call the 1-800 #) is your best bet. If you can produce records of being a loyal Toyota owner for years (showing them multiple registrations for different Toyota’s you’ve owned over the years has been known to be successful), you’ve got a shot. This is one of the few times when your local Toyota dealership can’t help you. Your vehicle is old enough and has enough miles that your beef is with Toyota. Good luck with your problem.
Thanks Mickey and Jason for your input. My Toyota was the first and now with what you have said will obviously be my last. And yes as all my oil changes and anything I have had done was done by my dealership . A cracked dash at a airbag site , may not have been an issue as yet and may not be deemed a safety issue as yet but it will soon become an issue that Toyota will investigate shortly. There are too many complaints and mileage should not enter into it. I had taken my car in to have rotors checked 3 tiimes and had techs say no , no problem. Sirs , i have driven many autos in my life and I do know what it sounds like and how an auto responds when rotors are gone or going. In any case 4th and final time apparently they discovered it and tried to charge me. Needless to say there are a few excellent customer service reps who knew not to charge me. Thanks guys , I really do not know if you men have any connection to Toyota as far as helping not only I but 100,s maybe 1000’s of people who have bought Toyota products that seem to be having same problem as I. But if you can Im sure it would be very much appreciated by many.
Dixie I had no connections to Toyota other than having a 07 Tundra Crewmax Limited and the wife’s 07 Prius c version package #6 which is basically a limited it has everything in it. I did work at a chevy dealership back in 76-77. Now Dixie keep filing compalints especially at ODI ( Office of Defects Investigations) which works with NHTSA (National Highway Transportation Safety Administration). http://www.odi.nhtsa.dot/gov/recalls
Steering Problem 2009 Corolla: Toyota Motor Company No help
Basically I have it in service longer then owned then they can’t fix the pulling of the EPS Electronic Steering. Traded it in for the same made model Corolla 2009 and had to pay $1300 (since it was now used after only 1 month)
Toyota.. (Driving Forward?_
Will – Your problem likely would have been covered by a lemon law claim, but now that you’ve traded that’s that. I think the trade might actually have been the cheaper option – filing a successful lemon law claim takes months and it’s a lot of brain damage. I’ll be sure to ask my dealer friends about the problem you had on your 09 Corolla to see if it’s common.
Thanks Jason…
Yea.. The Stress and cost of a rental is well worth to cut my loss. I am glad I reported the VIN # to NHTSA and Toyota Corp and Dealer.. I pray someone don’t die in my “Old” 2009 Toyota Corolla..
thanks for this website..
W
Ready for this?? Presidents Day Feb. 16 2009, my wife and I drive to Bernardi Toyota of Framingham, just outside Boston. There we find a 2006 HIHY Limited, truck is beautiful, touchscreeen Nav, heated leather, the whole nine. We take it for a ride,she loves it, we sit down and talk some numbers, they come back with 1 price for the truck and 1 price for my trade, I dont say anything, dont try to haggle, I say ok let me talk to the credit union and see what they say. (Wife and I are both state employees and have credit unions, and all vehicles have been purchased with them so Toyota Financing was not necessary). Following Friday after Presidents Day my wife shows up to sign P and S, gets to her car and the salesman comes running out after her in dramatic fashion telling her something was wrong and they could not find the title, it should be on the property but we cant find it right now and deal obviously cant be done without it so we will call you next week. I catch wind if this and call the salesman who proceeds to tell me that WHILE my wife was sitting at the little round tables ths Finance guy grabbed him and asked him where the title was..salesmans response was I dont know and Finance guys response was well it isnt uptairs. When he told me this I asked him why he didnt say anything to my wife who as we remember said they came running out after her when she was in the car!!!(Also just for record when my wife got there they had 2 P and S slips written up…1 for the agreed price and 1 with a 7 year 100000 extended warranty…just in case we might be interested in buying it!!! Why make sure the car is good to be sold before we do extra stuff?? I asked the same thing!!) Just the 1st incident of very shady and ongoing BS we will see here!! I get hold of the sales manager and after letting him know just how I felt about the way this operation was going down I told him they should split the warranty with me. He said he would take 500 off (It was 1480 for the warranty), and to please be patient that the car was bought in maryland and they have funky title laws and we will have it ASAP. I say ok, fast forward to 3/17 St. Pattys Day…I have still heard nothing and found this site and for lack of a better term Im pissed at this point, so I call the GM and I tell him that if she didnt like the car I would have wrapped this whole deal up a long time ago, then I say I have a 500 dollar deposit tied up with you while we wait for the title that should have been here before the car even went onto the lot and I cant afford to limp my trade along hoping that something doesnt happen to it, in short how bout a loaner or something before my wife loses her mind!! He gives me a 09 Toyota Yaris which is so gross that its probably worth 15000 off the lot loaded brand new, the Highlander is 21000 by the way. Also for the record the sales manager has called me twice during the month of March to ask me for the check for 21000!! Once on March 2nd, so they could meet the “quota” for Feb. and once last week…Its March 30 and guess who called and said the title is in today!! When I told him that my wife would have to call in sick to work and I know that they really would like to have this deal on the books by tomorrow, but a little incentive would be nice like pay the whole warranty, or offer me Maintenance for a while, or take 1500 off or SOMETHING, ANYTHING.. I was told “we have to much money tied up already bewteen the rental you got and everyhting else” In the big picture for the Month and 2 1/2 week wait I have received 500 off of a warranty I havent even agreed to buy yet and a Yaris rental almost exactly 1 month into this horror show!!! Phew I think thats it, Im calling the regional office tomorrow and the corporate as well. I hate the extremes but I cant help but to keep feeling like this is our fault and Im fighting every step of the way for reasonable things, maybe because the car is only a 20000 purchase and not a 40000 one Im not that important?? I dont know, had to vent!!!!!!!!!!
I have to say that one is a doozy. The rental for a month will be about $990. That’s a big piece to swallow. From what I read you only put down a deposit. Did you give them the check for the remainder of the price of the vehicle? Since I don’t see that info written there I have to assumed it wasn’t signed for. On that note them paying for a rental is over and beyond what a dealer has to do. Now if you did pay for it with a credit union check then they are at fault on not having a title. You can contact all the people you want but if you didn’t pay for it yet then the dealer covering the rental is more than adequate in what you’re asking off or accessories. Yes it’s the dealer’s fault not having the title but as I said before you need to make it clearer that you bought the vehicle. I don’t know what a P and S slip is. Is that the contract your wife signed?
Jay – That’s a hell of a story. I think the mistake was made back in February when they said “we’re just waiting for a title – when we have it we’ll sell it.” What should have been said was “we don’t have a title, and we think we’ll have it soon, but we’re not sure. Here’s your $500 deposit, we’ll call you when this is available, and if you’re still in the market, we’ll do the same deal.” My guess (from years of working in dealerships) is that the “title problem” was actually a result of the previous deal. The people who traded in the truck you bought probably couldn’t get financed right away, and until their deal was done you couldn’t buy the trade. This is a simple case of bad management – the people making the decisions at this dealership probably don’t have a lot of experience. I think your idea of contacting Toyota is excellent, and I would also suggest you speak with your local dealer licensing board. They’re going to be very interested in looking at this deal I think…
Mickey, the p and s is the purchase and sale agreement…part of the reason why I was so upset is because they had her sign it then ran out and said we can’t find the title, I assumed it was not valid because not only did they not have the title yet and couldnt legally sell the truck but they also gave her another p and s agreement with a 1500 dollar warranty “in case” when she got home and showed it to me we would want to buy it instead, so if I said yes we want the xtended warranty doesnt that null and void the one she signed?? and yes it was only a deposit of 500 and no I would not get them any money until they called me and said they had the title, I am law enforcement in Massachusetts and I can assure you if i gave them a check for 21000 in Feb or March and I didnt have a car someone would be locked up right now!!! My thing is yes the rental was nice but I had to call the GM almost exactly a month later and basically tell him to give me something to drive, for a 21000 deal in this economy should I be the one bending for a sale, or should that or something like that have been offered? And Jason you are right it has been poor management from the beginning…its to the point that I called the GM today and we arranged so everything would be smooth tomorrow when I get there,the GM!! Its been so bad I felt compelled to call the sales guy a while later and ask him to make sure the car looks mint for my wife!! Oh and Mickey the month for the rental is pushing it…Ive had the car for 14 days today!! Ive been in this mess since Feb 16th, and asked for the car March 17th and got it the 18th…you do the math…they are into my 30 dollar a day rental for a little over 400…nothing crazy as far as Im concerned, anyway dont dealers do loaner cars anymore?? I kind of brought this on myself becasuse I could have walked away from this deal at any time, I know that, but I just think the management could have done a little better at just making me “happy” which they keep saying is all they want, to me happy is hey here is 500 more off for your trouble or heres free oil changes for a year, hell here is a book of free car washes for 3 months!! I would expect this BS from Johnny Sellacar who has 6 cars on his lot and all 6 of them dont total $20000 together, not a “reputable” Toyota Dealership. Hope this car is really something special I guess is all I can hope for!!!
Understand now… Wish you luck….
Jason (admin) how do you get in touch with the Toyota Licensing Board? Very intersted in doing so……
-Leigha (Jay’s’ wife)
Leigha also file with the BBB and anything else your local area has against them. They need to know the bad practice they are doing. Maybe your state’s DA.
Leigha – It’s not the Toyota licensing board, it’s your local government’s dealer licensing board. Mass. is a little different I guess (OK, more than a little) in that they allow each individual city/town to license the dealerships. SO…contact the people in charge of licensing in the town that the dealership is in.
http://www.mass.gov/rmv/faq/dealer.htm
My father and myself went to City World Toyota of the Bronx to purchase a car. After aquiring the car we later received phone calls asking to change the contract for a new warranty. I didnt trust them one bit on that.We did not go back but later we received another phone call telling us the car will be repoed if my father did not sign over the contract because there were some incorrect information on it. My father signed(not smart) then I later found out the dealership change the contract. They took off the certified warranty and added a 1yr warranty that cost $1600. The 6cd player doesnt work continues to say error 3 and now I wonder what else will go wrong. When my father went to the dealership they never explain he was declined on the first loan or he was signing a new contract. I reported them to BBB but I feel they won’t be much help. I made a complaint to Toyota but no one has called after 3 business days. Do you know any other numbers besides the given ones on top for NY Toyota or is that the highest I can go? I will also write cussmer affairs and the state Attorney General. We still havent received the title or bank statement for the car. I have been there multiple times and spoke with many people just to end up with word games. They have done this to many people. I met an individual who was given a $4000 warranty without his knowledge. Their sister company next door already have over 22 BBB complaints. So in summary the dealership called my father in told him to sign a contract that had some missing informaton but only to change the contract by adding a 1yr warranty and taking off the certification. What advice can you give or what should be my next step? Also, the contract is in my fathers name so I know there is little I can do personally.
Definitely report them to the state’s DA. This is shoddy business by that dealer. I don’t think he will be in business as a Toyota dealer too much long doing things like that. They should have a number for Toyota Northeast which covers several states that you can register a complaint.
I was talking to my daughter the other day and she was wanting me to come and see her and I told her that I had better not because my car is probably ready to quit on me. Since she lives in Bristow, VA and me in Mississippi, it’s quite a trip. She asked me what was wrong with it and I told her nothing but it was about time since it has 276,000 miles on it. She said I should write Toyota and tell them about it and they might give me a new one since I can’t afford to buy another since I’m on a limited income, when I gave her some facts on it. I bought the car new, 2003, and since have put 3 sets of brake pads on it, 3 sets of tires, 4 spark plugs at 173,000 miles(they were burnt down to nubs), 1 set of rear brake shoes at 270,000 miles, changed oil numerous times and 1 left rear wheel bearing at 200,000 miles. That is all that’s been done to the car and I believe that it’s going to go well over 300,000 miles, I just don’t want to take a chance on such a long trip. I read some of the above comments of people that were dissatisfied with Toyota but I’m here to tell you it’s not so with me. I love my little Corolla.
Thank You,
Royce Hutchison
Congrats to Roy. Piece of mind is great. It’s good to hear the other side of views people have on here. It’s also good to know I’m not the only one besides Jason (Admin) that likes our Tundra’s.
Yes I agree – thanks for commenting.
I bought my first car new…a 2007 Toyota Corolla. I went with a Corolla because its reliability (my dad’s is 12+ years old and still going strong).
In the past two weeks, the check engine light has come on three times. My mechanic friend ran a diagnostic each time immediately after the light came on. Each time it threw the code for the torque converter. I could have had my mechanic fix it then and there, but he said to take it to the dealership as its still under warranty.
I have been to my home dealership twice (they said nothing was wrong) and a local dealership once (they haven’t gotten back to me yet so I dont know i they found anything). In each case, after I was told nothing was wrong, the light would come back on a day or two later.
I can only imagine that the only reason they cant find anything wrong is because its still under warranty. Im sure as soon as its out of warranty there will be all sorts of interesting discoveries.
Anybody know what my recourse is? I have a mechanic that I trust, but will Toyota reimburse me if I have him do the work? I doubt it, but I am frustrated and running out of patience (I have lost two days of vacation and spent hours of time in waiting rooms and on the telephone just trying to get this resolved.
I write to you regarding my car, a Toyota model
Ashley – The trouble with having your mechanic friend check the codes himself is that Toyota tends to keep their diagnosis procedures secret (especially for model years still under warranty). It’s possible that your friend’s equipment isn’t accurately reading the code. In any case, if your local Toyota dealer is telling your there’s no problem, maybe you should check with another dealership in the area for a second opinion.
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By the way, the dealership has little or no incentive to deny you a warranty repair. Warranty repairs are a big source of profit for dealerships – especially something pricey like a torque converter. They’re VERY interested in performing a big and expensive repair and sending the bill to Toyota, so don’t think for a second they’re trying to hide it from you. 🙂
I purchased a certified 2007 Toyota Camry on May 22 and I think I’m already having issues.
First, upon purchasing the car, the saleperson did not know (and I was not informed) that there was not a second car key available. I was assured that I would receive another one. I have been calling them with no avail and I don’t know what to do. No one seems serious about getting me this second key and I refuse to pay. Certified used cars should come with two keys and NO ONE knew there was only one key. I was informed a key replacemend is about $300.
Second, i don’t think the brakes were checked. They seem to be very low (lower than the 50% requirement it’s only been 3 weeks and I believe it’s already time to get them replaced).
This is my first car. Is it ok to be ignored like this? I don’t like my dealership’s customer service after the purchase of the car. No one wants to help/talk to me. The number they have listed online is NOT the number to their dealership (I tried it).
I don’t even want to go back to get service.. can I chage the location I get serviced?
Gen D – Does your paperwork say that the dealership owes you a second key? If so, the solution to your problem is to bring your paperwork to the dealership service department, point out where it says you’re entitled to a second key, and then ask for the work to be performed.
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If the paperwork doesn’t say anything about a 2nd key, then you’ll need to get someone to authorize it. Just like the article says, your next call should be to the dealership’s general manager. Follow the process we’ve outlined and you’ll have success. You won’t be ignored if you are assertive and persistent.
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As for brakes, do you have a record within a week or so of purchase that says the brake pads had less than 1/2 of their thickness? Is that record from a reputable independent shop? If so, you’ve got some leverage. If you don’t have that document (or if it’s not within a week or so of purchase), you probably won’t have much success getting the dealership to replace the pads. Brakes are wear items, and different drivers can wear pads faster than others. I’m not saying you’re hard on brakes (I have no idea), but the dealership has no idea either. SO, they usually won’t replace pads without some sort of proof they screwed up. If you really think they made a mistake, you could request a copy of the inspection report that shows the technician’s measurement of the pads at the time of the certification inspection. If you get any push back on this request, you can call Toyota’s Certified Used program HQ (1-800-GO-TOYOTA) and complain…but I wouldn’t suggest that until you’ve followed all the steps in the article above.
I agree with your article on how to deal with customer service issues with your toyota thru the dealership. Another word of advice speaking of over 15+ years of experience, mainly with chevy, is to either LIE and mark a ’10’ meaning ‘completely satisfied’ if you receive a customer satisfaction survey in the mail or e-mail for your dealership appt. you had OR just throw them away when you get them in the mail. Reason being, I once had a bad experience with a dealer who did not fix my problems under warranty more than one attempt and I finally filled a customer satisfaction survey out with 5-9’s (not 10′ meaning completely satisfied) and when I took my car in again to get work done, they told me to leave and denied me warranty work to be done. I think what it did to them is hurt their allocation of vehicles they could get in the future thru the mfg. So, I left and never returned ever again and told everyone I knew what happened and I think that hurt their business a little bit. So, go to service mgr., then General mgr., and then regional service mgr., and then try another 1-2 dealers to get your problem resolved, and then and only then the 1-800 toyota hotline, (then lawsuit, etc.) since all it will do is make the dealership personnel ignore you and be your enemy even though you and they know you are right.
MK – Great tip. Filling out those surveys with anything less than a “completely satisfied” hurts the service adviser, and since that’s the person most likely to help you out when you have a problem, it’s really important to give them a great survey so they’ll like you and want to help you later.
Thanks so much for these tips – you’ve helped a lot of people!
Our story: after we brought our ’04 Prius in for a 30k $500 maintenance yesterday morning, the dealer called late in the afternoon to tell us the water pump was leaking & needed to be replaced, for an additional $430. (They also said two tires needed to be replaced, at an additional $294, but this story is about the water pump.)
Unfortunately, we’re at about 62k miles, so just out of warranty. The same dealership had done a regular 5k maintenance & inspection a few months back, though it’s quite possible the pump developed a problem after that, or that it’s not a part of the 5k.
In any event, after reading through these stories, we felt confident returning to them and asking for AWA, at least. Our sales advisor gave us the Toyota 800 number & told us we were free to give them a call, but said he’d first see what he could do on his end. After putting us on hold for a while, he returned to say he couldn’t find his manager, but would be willing to take off the costs of the parts (~$150) as a gesture of goodwill. This, in addition to a 15% discount we had a coupon for, and which he had already applied, brought us down to $238 for labor. After pushing (politely) back for a few minutes, we took the offer – we needed the car back ASAP.
So all in all, we paid $932 for the 30k service, the water pump replacement, and two tires, which even after all the discounts strikes me on the high side. My question for everyone is: should we pursue with the GM or with Toyota, even after we agreed to our sales advisor’s deal? We want to maintain a good relationship with them, but we could use the money. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!
Where did GM fit into this? The new Prius gets better gas mileage along with a newer battery set up that lasts longer. My wife has an 07 Prius Pkg 6. She has 30,000 miles on it and no problems yet. She did have to replace one tire due to a piece of wire sticking out of the sidewall. Her TPMS worked great and let her know she was losing pressure. I really don’t care for GM with the experience of my 06 Silverado LT3. Very bad service along with a factory rep accusing me of pulling down my headliner. BTW which was replaced 11x. So I’m not for GM in anyway so I won’t be a good recommendation for the GM thing. After their customer support asked me if I owned another GM vehicle I just gave up on them.
I have a 2008 white Prius which I love. However, within a couple of weeks after purchasing the brand new car, I had 3 or 4 “dings” in the paint on the front end. I went to the dealer who touched up the paint, gave me a small plastic jar of touch up paint, and told me that this was due to rock damage. Within a few months, I counted more than 30 dings, again, all on the hood and front fenders. I took it to the dealer’s body shop. The shop manager told me that the dings were from rock damage and that they weren’t covered under any type of warranty. I checked the internet and found that my complaint is shared by many other Prius owners all of whom have been told things from “rocks hit Prius’ more because of the aerodynamics of the car” to “it’s the nature of the newer environmentally friendly paints.” I was told the latter. I asked him, incidentally, what he meant by “newer” and he told me “paints made within the last 20 or so years.” When I asked him why my past two cars (Nissan Maximas — 1985 and 1995) did not have this problem, he shrugged. My last count of dings in the front end pain is 40-50. The car is starting to look like it’s been driven in sandstorms in Iraq. When I buy a car I plan to keep it for a long time but now I don’t know what to do. I realize that the paint problem is with Toyota and not the local dealer but I consistently get patted on the head and told to run along by the shop managers, my salesman, and even the dealership owner. I know enough about paint and metal to know that this is probably due to bad primer (the paint chips off of the primer). What can I do?
Michael – I think you probably got all of the money. As you say, you could have raised a big stink and gotten a touch more off (maybe half the price of labor), but I doubt that Toyota would have offered much more than free parts in this instance. It’s such a rare type of failure I was surprised to read about it. As for contacting the GM (Mickey that’s “general manager”), you might try another tack and call him or her to praise your service advisor while wondering why he wasn’t able to cover the water pump completely since mileage was so close. If the GM “likes” you, and you explain it to him or her the way you’ve explained it here, they might be able to get the whole thing covered. If not, you’ll have one more person you can talk to next time, and you do something nice for your service advisor in the process.
Kathryn – I have to echo the comments that the service and body shop people gave you. Part of the problem is the shape of the car. Part of the problem is the water-soluble paint and water soluble primer that Toyota uses on the Prius, which (contrary to the info you were given) is a relatively new requirement. Solvent based paints and primers were only eliminated a few years ago (as recently as 2005 for many manufacturers and product lines). SO, your 1995 Nissan’s solvent soluble paint job probably stood up to the rigors of the road much more nicely than your 2008 Prius. The good news is that your Prius didn’t contribute a bunch of solvent paint waste to the environment. The bad news is the rock chips. Aside from avoiding close following, you can also look into a “clear bra” that protects the front end transparently. As for Toyota stepping up, I don’t think we’re going to see anything. Toyota (and everyone else) have been dealing with a rash of complaints about paint, and they’re mostly due to the relatively new water based paints and primers.
Still, it only seems to occur on some Priuses and not others. I had a 2006 Prius before this — no problem. I have two friends with 2008 Priuses. No problem. I don’t drive on roads with rocks any more than they do.
And the clear bra is almost as expensive as getting the front end repainted.
I had purchased a 2004 toyota tundra last sept w/40k miles on it. i brought the truck in for an oil change and toyota popped my $300 tire. they replaced it without a problem. the next oil change the mech said that i need to change my belts, i said that i just purchased the truck and they appologized to me due to missing it in the inspection that toyota is so proud of and replaced it. then i bring the truck in due to an engine light comming on, they explained that it was the gas cap sesor. well 2 weeks later i start the truck up and it runs ruff and the check engine light comes back on. i drive it toyota and on the way the truck turns off. well when the tow truck pulls the truck up on the bed all the oil comes flushing out. (in the middle of rain) I get to toyota and they said dont worry that it is covered under waranty. a week later toyota of panama city fl calls me and stats that there was water in the engine that caused the motor to lock up and states that it voids the warranty. i asked them how the water got in there and they explained that when it rains that water can splash up and get into the intake. Me being apolled by this crazy story, i called 5 other mechanics that own their own business and told them the story. they said that it was ficticious and no way can happen unless the vehicle was submerged in 3 feet of water. I have always driven the truck on paved roads and cannot take this truck off road due to this truck not being 4 wheel drive nor the tires are street tires that slip on the road when it rains. so far i have talked to the service manager and recieved the same idotic story and talk to the dealer that sold me the vehicle and he states that there is nothing that he can do. I have contacted the toyota headquarters and have still yet to hear from them and now im to the point to where i am talking to a lawyer to sue toyota of panama city for more than what it would cost to replace the engine. if driving my truck on the road when it rains causes this problem then toyota needs to refund my money or recall all tundras. i am a soldier in the united states army who is getting ready to deploy and now i have to deal with this. someone help please!
Kathryn – Good points both. Sometimes it’s just bad luck – hope that it gets better.
Scotty – I don’t know what to tell you. It’s an extremely odd set of circumstances, and I think it begins with figuring out how the water got in the motor. Find the answer to that question, and you’ll find out how your problem is going to be solved.
jason, i explained how the water got into the engine to what i was told by toyotas service manager. there is no way that i could have done this any other way but to drive it in the rain. toyota cant explain it to me either, so why cant they honor the warranty that i payed for?
[…] replacement where Toyota would replace the part and you would pay for any labor for the swap. Toyota Customer Service: Tips for Getting Your Problem Solved | Tundra Headquarters Failing that you might also try posting a Wanted in classifieds… I took out the same headunit of […]
Family and I had just pulled out of the driveway on trip to Montreal in my 2007 Matrix XR and the check engine light came on, followed by a complete stall-out. Long story short, had the car towed to the dealer and the diagnosis was a fried computer. Here’s the kicker: the computer is warranteed to 80K and I am somewhere around 88K. Aside from the fact that computer shouldn’t be considered a wear and tear item (especially given that most people drive their cars an excess of 150K these days!), do you think I would have any luck with pleading my case? I mean, $1K seems a pretty hefty ding on 3 year old car…
Thanks
I have a Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 2003 and there is an icon in the screen about Locks “the body car and inside it a key” every time I stop a car and take away the key it lightens in the screen that there is a problem can you help me?
Scotty – I don’t get it – rainstorms don’t lead to water in the engine. As I said, when you find out what really happened you’ll find your answer.
Robin – It sucks, but it happens. You can try to ask for some after warranty assistance, but I wouldn’t expect much. Maybe free labor and/or a big discount on parts. Good luck.
Souna – No idea.
anyone else having trouble with satellite radio. i just had it installed in my 2007 fj cruiser and get EXTREMELY bad reception. any suggestions?
Beth – Sounds like it isn’t installed properly.
Beth make sure what ever horizon your satellite is at is clear. Buildings and trees can block a signal. Other than that I believe what Jason put out. Not installed properly. Is your system connected to a FM station? My daughter had Sirius but it was connected through an FM station so how clear that station is and that’s your reception for satellite.
The more posts I read, the more disugusted I am with Toyota. I just purchased two 2009 Toyotas (Venza and FJ), and already have issues. Bad battery in the FJ…so I stop by Toyota for a new battery at 4:40 pm. Service guy says, “Do you have an apppointment?” “Um, no I don’t…my battery on my 2 month old vehicle did not make an appointment with me to go bad”, I respond. “Would it be possible for you just to throw a new battery in it for me please?” I ask. Service guy says “Well, our service techs are leaving in about 10 minutes, but let me ask them for you.” As the service guy goes to speak with the techs I observe the sign that reads “0700 am to 0600 pm” for the service hours. You can already see where I’m going with this….long story short, I get this big story of how it will take and hour and a half to test everything and get my truck back, and the techs will do me a favor and stay until 0600 pm to get my truck done. I understand they may have people in front of me getting work done…but why lie about it?…doing me a favor? What a joke. I point out the sign that shows the service hours, and remind him that a load test on the battery takes less than 5 minutes. I just can’t tolerate the lack of integrity, nor bring myself to kiss the rear ends of these people just to get them to honor their end of the deal. I went to Walmart and paid for my own freaking battery, which was replaced in 5 minutes. Small problem, I know…but it’s the principle. The Venza, on the other hand, computer/traction control issues…I’m ready to burn it in the desert. I’m 40 years old…my wife and I have purchased Toyotas, Hondas, Nissans, Fords, VWs, Chevys, and Jeep. Toyota has always been known for reliability…but I’m not convinced of that anymore. One thing I am convinced of though, is that since they have taken over as the dominant manufacturer, they have become more arrogant and complacent, and less customer loyalty oriented. I will probably not buy another Toyota.
I am a Toyota Corolla HB user. My car got broke down about 1 month ago.
I took my car to the “Toyota Akdemirler Service (Izmir, Turkey)”. Although I have
been told that I would get my car back in 10-15 days, it has been almost more
than 1 month now and I am still waiting for my car to get fixed!!!
I have always had some problems with the “Toyota Akdemirler Service” during
my regular car care controls too. They are always careless and they never deliver
the car back in time!
Besides, Toyota Customer Service has been no help about anything!!!
I am so sure that I will never buy a Toyota again and warn all the people around
about not to buy a Toyota as well!!!
It seems that you only care about selling your cars, which is not a proper behavior
for such a big company!!!
Okan Afsar
Izmir, Turkey
owner of Toyota Corolla HB (2007)
Why can I not get an answer to a question?
I have tried Toyota uk & numerous other places on the net to no avail.
I have even tried this forum only to be ignored.
My question was what are the Toyota official emissions of a 1999 Toyota Emina 2.2TD Auto in G/KMs. DVLA are saying they are 229G/KMs which puts it into the high tax band, ie.
Greg most dealerships even GM my last truck had to make an appointment to go in. I felt the same way and with the same notion about the battery making an appointment. It’s hard to get in with just a hour and a half before the time is up. If they are busy when you came in it’s an availability you have to wait for. Yes they have their tests on all items before they replace. It was a 7 page of diagnostics for them to check for my auto close mirror which took about 50 minutes and then another half hour to replace. Dealerships can’t replace warranty parts without doing what tests needed before having the manufacturer paying for the warranty replacement part and time for the tech. So if the part was still good and the tech replaced a good part the dealer eats the cost. So tests have to be done and Toyota has their own way in doing this. No different with other manufacturers. Also the last half hour they clean up the shop and replace the tools. So you really only had an half hour to get everything in. Your actions only alienated you when you was there. I do understand your urgency with wanting to get another battery but you also have to look at the other side of the picture. Dealers won’t pay overtime so they have to clock out. I’m sure you wouldn’t want to stay after a long day at work either. Now if that dealer didn’t satisfy you try another one.
John – First, this isn’t an appropriate question for this blog post about customer service. Second, why you have the expectation that you’re entitled to an answer is beyond me. Third, I have no idea.
Greg – I understand your perspective, but I’m not sure how the dealership did you wrong exactly. They did offer to fix it before closing, so it sounds like they held up their end of the deal. I wasn’t there obviously, so I don’t know about the line of BS they may have dropped, etc., but I can tell you that it doesn’t sound like you were in a very good mood when you asked for their help. Any chance that’s the reason they decided to make you wait?
okan – No idea how it works in Turkey – good luck getting it handled.
wondering if you could help?
my 2001 mr2 has lost its power i was driving along on the motorway last night doing 60mph then i put my foot down to over take a car when it felt like i was driving a 1.2 punto. No lights have came up on the dash.
I have a k&n air filter fitted to my car and at 6-7000 revs when i put my foot down it makes a noise but it was making the same noise at 2000 revs doing 60mph.
please help if you can many thanks mark
Mark – It’s either a fuel problem or an intake problem – start by methodically checking off on both. If that doesn’t work, your local auto tech. is the best person to help you.
I have a 2002 RAV4 that the transmission has failed on. There was a TSB in 2006 for the ECM that apparently has caused this. Service guy at the dealership was well acquainted with this problem and the internet has hundreds of complaints about this very issue. My car has 107,000 miles on it and I’ve had all the servicing done at the dealership. I simply do not have $3,000 to $5,000 to fix this. I feel like this is a known issue to Toyota and they should repair it in order to keep my business (25 years of buying cars from this dealer) and my goodwill. What are my chances?
SInce you had the dealer do your maintenance you can look back in 2006 to see what mileage you had on the vehicle. If it’s proven that the ECM caused it I think you have alot of leverage to show you were under warranty with your tranny at the time of the TSB. I would think since you had all maintenance done at the dealers they should have checked it then. I’ve heard it before that they did help with the bill at least half of it. That’s better than nothing. Wish you luck.
Elaine – I’m thinking that a class-action lawsuit is your best bet for getting money out of Toyota (and that’s a stretch). 100k miles usually means that any goodwill assistance is out of the question. Still, since you’re a loyal customer, it’s worth asking for a discount on the part(s) and labor. You might also try contacting an independent shop that specializes in Toyota. For this type of repair, they might save you a few hundred.
We have a 2008 Avalon Limited. The car is 16 months old with 38K miles. we have been having heavy rains here and my wife noticed a water sloshing noise when breaking. She found the carpet under the passenger side mat soaking wet. Looking on line there has been reports of the drain lines from the moon roof not being coonnected or obstructed. The car is garaged so I doubt an obstruction exists. What is the best approach to get Toyota to fix this defect and take care of the wet carpet smell.? I don’t feel we should have to pay to repair what seems to be a documented proublem.
William – That sounds pretty straight-forward to me. Has the dealership requested payment? If so, did they find an obstruction and/or signs that something was damaged?
We took the car into the dealer today. They said the airconditioner hose was off and asked if we had had any AC work done, the answer is no. We did have the cabin air filter replaced in early June during an oil change.at one of thoes drive thru places.
Toyota would not even look at the car until we paid the dianostic charge $ 57.00. They re reconnected the hose. The cost to replace the carpet is $1400.00. We will file a claim with our insurance company and pay the deductable I guess.
William – Odd that the hose became disconnected – I can’t imagine you were tinkering with it in your spare time! 🙂 [Why would you, right?] Seems to me that you need to find yourself a different Toyota dealer and start over – not all of them are bad.
This is to formally file a complaint on the unit, Toyota Yaris 1.5 Manual Transmission, released last January 5, 2008 and was purchased from Toyota Davao Philippines. This is also to convey our utmost dismay and frustration on the said vehicle due to defects encountered in just less than a year.
To start off, we encountered the first and major problem somewhere September 2008, which happened to be roughly only eight months later from the date of release. Problem encountered was that the vehicle won
Is it routine for the water pump to be replaced when replacing a timing belt in a Camry? Thank you.
patrick tan – That sounds like a very bad situation for you. The ACU/ECU issue probably hasn’t been fixed – sometimes these electronic problems take a long time to diagnose correctly. Good luck.
Betty – I think the argument can be made to replace the pump while changing a timing belt provided that the pump is old enough. How many miles? What year Corolla? These questions will help me formulate a good answer.
Patrick tan I had a similar problem with my 03 Ford F-150. Yes the computer went bad. What ended up happening and several visits they ordered a new one but when they replaced it I had a missfire in the #5 cylinder. So they put the old one back but check engine light kept coming on. They used other trucks in the lot computer’s qand the same result happened the numbver #5 cylinder missfired. I had the service adviser, manager and tech along with my salesman and a laison for Ford Factory tell me they couldn’t fix the truck. It took several more months before Ford finally sent someone ffrom the factory with a fix knowing what the problem was. Knowing my VIN number they told me 3 trucks built in order being mine was the only one on the east coast and the other 2 were on the west coast was the wiring harness to the computer the pins were made too short and wouldn’t connect with the other computers. Apparently Ford factory forced the computer on the pins to make it work. This took about 8 months total but I traded the truck the day it got fixed because Ford pushed me away and wouldn’t acknowledge the problem. I do understand how you feel about it. Just letting you know it does happen to other manufacturers also.
Jason: is it rightful for us to ask for a replacement of the whole vehicle? Thanks.
Mickey: So Ford did not replace your vehicle?? How frustrating. This is somehow very alarming wherein consumers cant do anything for situations like this since these big companies only care about their profits and not the satisfaction, welfare, and worth of their customers.
Actually, I am aware that among the hundereds they manufacture for a period of time, there is really one or more units that are defective – in other words, passed the quality control which should not be in the first place. I just cant accept that we are one of those unfortunate ones who happens to avail the defective unit. I am really demanding that they replace the whole vehicle or else they will really receive a bad publicity for this one.
Patrick – Not to be negative, but asking for a vehicle replacement is probably too ambitious. In the US, we have “lemon laws” that require replacement when a vehicle can’t be repaired. However, it’s very difficult to qualify for a lemon law replacement in the USA 95% of the time. Your best bet is to fight the good fight and hope for the problem to be fixed.
I currently own a 2008 Toyota Yaris in Polar White. I have never had an issue with my car before. My reason for visiting the service center was due to an interior leak which (evidently) resulted from a clogged drain pipe for the air conditioning condensation. I first noticed the leaking drainpipe on August 30, 2009. It was the only time I ever saw anything leak from the interior of my car. I decided it would be a good idea to bring it in for a service check and I assumed that this type of thing would be covered under my 100,000 mile warranty. On September 1, 2009, I took my Yaris in for a service check.
After I left the dealership I felt better (despite the bad customer service) because I thought my car was is good condition again. I was wrong. After making a quick stop at home, I was on my way to school when my
Marina – It’s hard to say what has happened exactly, but here’s my take: Your vehicle has been in an accident and the damage has not been repaired. While it’s certainly possible that no mechanical damage occurred, it’s also possible that the radiator was dislodged and/or damaged. The timing of your car overheating was suspicious to be sure, but timing isn’t enough to prove that the dealer did anything wrong. Had you opened your hood before you dropped the car off to verify everything was in good working order? If you had, you would know what had happened. The two things I can say for sure: 1) Get your body damage fixed ASAP – until a body shop completes the repair, you can’t be sure that the engine wasn’t damaged. 2) The dealer shouldn’t be afraid to open a hood, and if they are they should refuse to do service. If I couldn’t have opened the hood on your car, I would have turned you away. I’m not going to work on a car if I can’t even get the hood open.
I have had a 2009 corolla s since feb.2008 at 9000 miles it was blowing mold/ mildew out of the a/c. The dealership flushed it with something to bandaid the problems. At 14000 miles less then a yr later it happened again. This time they pulled the whole dash off and changed the condenser. When I got in my car and left the dealership the car now feels like it hesitates and get loud when given gas then takes off. I took it right back and it didn’t appear to do it when we drove around. I took the car home and drove it for a few days and it continued. I just took it back 3 days late with the same prob. The service tech., said it could just be me in my mind that I saw it apart now im just listening for noises. The car isn’t running right. It’s louder then usual.(kinda sounds like has a exhaust leak when in gear.) It also hesitates betwen gears. Any suggestions? Is wasn’t like this before going in the shop?
tyson – I have a few thoughts. First of all, the reason your system smelled like mildew is that sometimes it grows in the system if the vents aren’t closed when the vehicle is parked. Buried somewhere in your owner’s manual is a suggestion to shut off your climate control system when the vehicle is off…this is why. Second, I’m completely and totally mystified as to why someone would remove a dash to get rid of a mildew smell. It makes so much more sense to spray some antiseptic into the vent system intake and live with the results than it EVER does to remove a dash. The answer to your question is that there IS something different. Once a dash comes out, it never goes back the same way. Your service advisor did you a dis-service trying to make you happy about the mildew smell. Shame on them for suggesting such a radical repair for something that’s completely natural (and a result of leaving the vents open while parked). The hesitation you’re feeling is probably your strong new compressor using more power than the 9,000 mile compressor you had before and it should go away with time. The louder sound is probably a result of taking the dash apart. The moral: Sometimes the cure is worse than the problem.
The thing that gets me is that these dealers have us at their mercy. We work hard for our Money too. I bought a toyota Matrix because I heard they were Safe and would hold their value. Not true and the Public should know about this, to help them know about their next purcase. Most cars lose money as soon as you take them off the lot. But not this much loss. I have had my Toyota matrix for 2 months and have 4,500 miles on it .Excellant condition. I also have the sports package. I bought it for around 19000 and traded in my clunker for 4,500. I fianced 14,300 and now I want to trade it in on the 2010 matrix with the safety features traction control and stablity control. and now they say my trade in is only worth 13,000 dollars 6,000 dollar loss in 2 months. And Now if I purchase the new one at 19000. So that would be a 12,000 dollar difference. From my orginal purchase. For the same car.INSANE RIGHT. So, I guess toyota’s don’t hold thier value so well after all. People need to know.
Clunkers may have help you in a new vehicle but to me the clunkers program devalued vehicles as a whole. Also you trying to trade in a 2009 for a 2010 only 2 months old? Why not wait for what you want? That $4,500 did alot of people in early so they can have the savings. Now I’m trying to do your math on the new vehicle. I don’t see the $12,000 difference. if $19,000 is cost and you lost $6,000 on your supposed trade and they will pay off what you owe $14,300 you lose another $1,300 so your total is $7,300 not $12,000. If you’re counting the cash for clunkers I’m afraid to tell you that money wasn’t yours to start with. That’s tax payer money being wasted from our wonderful govt.
L – I agree that the Matrix isn’t Toyota’s best example of great resale value, but your perspective on this transaction is all wrong. The issue here isn’t depreciation – it’s you.
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First of all (and most importantly), no one should ever expect to trade a car in after 2 months. That’s just dumb. If you wanted those features so badly, why didn’t you get them 2 months ago? When you don’t think your decisions through, there’s only one person to blame when they don’t go the way you want them to. YOU.
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Secondly, part of the $6k in depreciation is the “free” money you got from the government. Part of your $3500 or $4500 “loss” was actually MY FREAKING MONEY that you wasted. Thanks.
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Finally, remember that you bought last year’s model. Your car isn’t 2 months old, it’s ONE YEAR old. If you consider the depreciation figure in that light (it’s a 2009 and the 2010’s are out), it’s pretty normal.
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Look – I feel your pain. You didn’t get what you want. Here’s a tip: Instead of blaming someone else, go find a mirror, look yourself in the eye, and say “I need to make better choices.” You will find more happiness in life when you take responsibility for your own mistakes…and think your next car purchase through carefully so you can avoid any possibility of ever wanting to trade a car in after 2 months.
Micky is so so smart. To bad he knows nothing. Replacement please
Sorry anonymous I wasn’t the fool who tried to replace a 2 month vehicle. I can’t help it you can’t add either. Also at least I leave a name. Call it what you want anonymous.
I have a 2006 Sienna (35,000 miles) still covered under warrantee & I have an extended warantee to 60,000. My problem is with the air bag light. After about 4 months of owing the car the air bag light come on & stays on. I take it to my local dealer & they fix the problem under waranteee.
However, it was only temporary. Approximately 2 months later the air bag light comes on again. I make another appointment & my dealer fixes the problem. But once again after about 6 months the air bag light comes on again.
Once more I take it to the dealer & they fix it, but….after a few more months the light comes on again…and so on…and so on…and so on…
So far I have taken at least 8 trips (maybe more) to the dealer to get the aig bag light issue resolved & every time they have done the “so called repair” the light comes on again after a few weeks or months.
I have noticed a pattern through this process. The problem seems to be temperature sensatitive. On a hot or warm day when the interior of the car is warm the problem seems to occur most frequently. I have also found by pushing up under the front passenger seat (when the car is off) I can get the air bag light to not come on for a while. It eventually does come on again after a few week or months.
I truly believe there is a problem with the front pasanger seat sensor & either the sensor or seat needs to be replaced. Some expansion must occur with the seat materials when the temp is warm. I have explained my diagnosis, with the reasons, to my dealer, but they insist their computer tells them something else. How many times can they keep doing this & getting it wrong?
I need the problem resolved permanently before the warrantee runs out.
Any suggestions….I’m totally frustrated.
Tom – That’s crazy – whatever it is, it shouldn’t be happening. I have a couple of ideas:
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1. You may have grounds for a lemon law claim. Every state is different, but if you’re fed up with this and don’t want to mess around – AND if it’s not too late – you can start the lemon law process. That usually gets Toyota’s interest. They’ll dispatch an engineer to work on your problem.
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2. Try a different dealership. Sometimes a different technician who doesn’t know about all the work that’s already been done can fix a problem like this.
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3. The airbags have a federally mandated 8 year 80,000 mile warranty. That fact likely means your lemon law window has not closed.
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Whichever way you go, this issue is really important. An airbag that doesn’t work is a safety issue, and it should be getting the full attention of anyone that you bring it to. Good luck.
Seatbelt Issue
I have a Toyota 2005 XLE Sienna Minivan. The passenger side seatbelt does not extend all the way out. Also the driverside seatbelt is twisted, it extend all the way out. It does not return back into its holder. Is there a recall to have these seatbelts repaired? If not, how much will it cost to repair these seatbelts? Thanks.
Ronnie Oliver
Ronnie – It’s not a recall issue, but your belts are covered under warranty for 8 years and 80k miles. So long as you’ve got less than 80k, your dealer should repair the problem free of charge.
Both of my tail lights wont work, the fuse and bulbs are good so I’m thinking it’s some problem with the wires near the fuse box. It seems this is happening a lot with toyotas, is there any chance that the dealers will fix this free of charge like they do with the ECMs
Deric – It’s hard to say. If your vehicle isn’t under warranty, it’s a long shot. If there are signs of damage, there’s no chance of a warranty replacement. As far as this happening frequently, I’m not familiar. This is the first I’ve heard of it.
I have a 2008 Camry LE and was wondering if antyoen is having trouble with the Trunk closing. I’m told that I need a new part for the trunk to close but this seems strange for a trunk with little use since I bought the car in April 2009 to be broken.
I have a 2001 Toyota Highlander with about 80K miles and has two problems. First each morning during this late fall season I have condensation on the front inside windows. About as much as one would get up here in new england on the outside windows as the evening dew freezes. The condensation isn’t any greater or less when it has rained overnight. At first I thought the windshield seal was broken and had to replace dew to a rock anyway. After replaceing it appears that was not it. My next culprit may be the seal or the drains on the sunroof. Any suggestions towards another issue?
Second, after an oil change, tire rotation and wheel balance, I began to experience vibration in the front drivers side wheel. The vibration would begin at 60/65 mph and increase as speed increases. Recently it is creeping down to lower speeds. The viration occurs 90 percent of the time but dissipates after 5-10 minutes of driving at that speed. An alignment is scheduled yet since it is not a constant vibration I am unsure. My secodn thought is the brake system or bearings. Any thoughts?
Thank you!
Steve – As you undoubtedly know, the condensation is from some sort of leak. I’d check the weather stripping on the doors in addition to the sunroof and window seals. As for the vibration, the vast majority of the time it’s a result of a poor wheel balance. What’s odd is that it dissipates after a few minutes. Bearings would be my next guess. Hope that helps.
Steve don’t just check the balance but look at the tires for any abnormal wear such as cupping can cause that. Balance would be my first guess. Another way to check if it is balance have someone ride along side of you and have them look at the wheel in question. If it’s riding smootha and you have a vibration then I would think bearings but if the person watching sees the wheel jump up and down then it’s the balance of the tire.
Thanks Mickey and Jason. I have seen a bit of xcess but not unbalanced wear. Also When comparing performance with similar vehicles I see that when I coast to a stop light the car tends to decelerate faster than I anticipate. I believe that this is likely the bearings as my breaks are fine.
As for the condensation, my inclination is the sunroof as well and will ensure that the contact areas are cleaned so that a seal can be had. If I need to replace the stripping that would be relatively easy. Unfortunately the weather has not been cooperative for frost as it has warmed up. The rain has enabled me to test leaks which were not apparent. One question, I have been told that the sunroof has drains to enable water to escape and that this may be blocked. Is it possible to clean these long tube out?
Steve – I’m not sure. I’ve heard of this happening as well – definitely something to ask your dealer or local mechanic about.
2004 Sequoia, 73,000 miles
developed a “whop whop” noise when moving, sounded to me like a front wheel bearing, took to local Toyota dealer, they diagnosed rear wheel bearing, fee $100, I replaced rear wheel hub assy and all seals etc$340. still “whop whop” noise. took back to dealer, dealer wanted additional $430 to “re-diagnose” problem. I argued that they diagnosed it wrong the first time and received my origonal diagnosis fee back $110. Only problem is I still have the noise and dont know who or where to have it PROPERLY diagnosed and fixed.
Any ideas?
Jon – The dealership is probably as good a place to start as any. The best place to get your Sequoia fixed is the shop that has the most experience working on them. In most cities, that’s a Toyota dealership. If you’re fortunate enough to live in a large city, there might be an independent repair shop that specializes in Toyotas AND has experience with the Sequoia. You might try another dealership too.
No response from dealers or toyota compony. see the letter
Dear Customer Relation Manager,
I am writing to you as you are representing Toyota Company which is one of the largest companies in the Car Manufacturing Business. Since over than 15 years, I was purchasing this product provided that Credibility and quality of work as well as attending to warranty claim is superior among of others. Now things start to change from first incident I encountered with Toyota dealers.
The latest car I purchased from Toyota / Saudi Arabia – Khobar was Prado, model 2007, I started to encounter difficulties when I send my Car for repair to Markazeia” Your dealer in Amman / Jordan” located at Markh when the engine was subjected to overheating due to un expected damage in the radiator. Al-Markazeia ” Amman dealer” have done the repair with charge been paid fully by me as it is out of warranty.
By end first week of Nov, I found the RMP starts to de accelerate and Problem possibly generated from the engine.So, I send the car to Toyota workshop in Khobar / Saudi Arabia where ,I purchased, After investigation by Toyota Workshop, They have advised me that the oil filter is counter fit and wrong assembly was made in the engine part. So, they have refused to cover it under warranty cause of damage was clearly from wrong assembly of engine.
I have requested a technical report from Toyota / Khobar where I have also send it to Markeziah in Amman as an evidence of failure of repair was reported. All issues incorporated in the technical report was caused by Al-Markazeya in Amman.
I got clear answer from Al-Markaziyah refusing to accept the technical report as an evidence of their failure.
Now, I got in the middle of two dealers neither one accepting the warranty nor admitting the mistake. The cost of repair will be SR. 8,000 since sever damage incurred in the engine.
Dear Sir,
I am writing to you cause this will destroy your reputation and your credibility of authorizing none professional dealer in Amman to handle such incident. Incorrect Repair, un professional response nor acceptance of mistakes where no attics in such behavior.
Do you take the responsibility of protecting your reputation, Do you attend to claims to use your influence in order to respect the customers. Where Toyota position after selling their product through un professional dealers and authorizing such service providers workshop.
I am expecting your attention to this case and my plan to go far in pursing my case to the maximum level as it is more than repair charges, It is an attitude and un athical behavior from Amman Toyota dealer.
Wither I am correct with respect to my expectation from you, I will find out from your kind response.
By the way, photos of oil filter and incorrect assembly was taken by Toyota workshop in Khobar as reported by them. Attached is the technical report.
Here’s one for ya! I bought a 2009 Tundra last April, at 14,000 miles I took it in for it’s 3rd oil change and they tell me I’m leaking transmission fluid and they needed to replace the driveshaft via TSB. I said fine and they kept for 3 days. Pick it up and driving home it slams into 2nd gear, so I take it back the next morning. 7 hours later they inform me that they didn’t refill the fluid that leaked out! So, I take it home 3 days later I take a look under the truck and it’s leaking again. I take it back and they keep it for another 3 days. They put the “master mechanic” on it. He determines the rear transmission gasket is leaking and replaces it. I pick it up. 2 days later I look under the truck again and you guessed it, it’s leaking AGAIN from the driveshaft! It is back in there today, I spoke with the service manager and told him the history and his reply was “well, we will take a look at it” I told him I wanted a new transmission, because I felt there was something wrong in the machining of it. He said ” we will see what it needs when we look at it”. I said I have zero confidence in there ability to correct the problem and that I was ready to contact the S.E. Regional Service manager.
Nothing that I said remotely generated any emotion or change in attitude. He was like a robot!
Question is how long do I have to continue this road?
4 times in a month and a half for the same problem is a bit much don’t you think?
Omar Hassan first I would like to tell you sorry about the mishap of the engine failure due to improper filter from Toyota dealer in Amman. Second this is a website not affiliated with Toyota. Jason the Admin on here runs this website. He can get the info for you as to who to call to try and remedy the situation. I do understand the frustration you are feeling about this. I had similar dealings with GM and Ford. This is why I bought a Toyota. Jason will reply to you just give it time.
Rob by all means that road has changed course. I would check another Toyota dealership if one is in the neighborhood. Just by what you mentioned and I hope you kept all copies of the work orders to show the other dealership as to why you lost confidence. Also I would contact the Southeast Regional Service Manager. BY that you live somewhere around Florida. I live in Jax, florida. I had similar issues like that with an 06 Silverado 11x replacing a headliner and at least 12x replacing a computer on an 03 F-150. Don’t hesitate anymore now demand. Lemon law takes effect after 3x on the same item being worked on and the manufacturer has one more final attempt at trying to fix the issue. I have an 07 Crewmax with 74,500 miles on it and I haven’t had that issue. I did have the tranny fluid replaced and synthetic put in at 70,000 for $165. For 3 days is a total B/S. My fluid was changed with an oil change on a Saturday within 3 hours. A seal don’t take that long to replace. It’s getting the oil up to temp to put it in is what takes the time.
Thanks Mickey.
I am actually in the Atlanta area. Now they are saying they cannot find a leak! I must be blind or crazy, because I have been watching it for a week or more. I do have all paperwork, and will take it to another dealer after they return it to me. They said they are waiting on another mechanic to take a look at it. Sure, if it’s been sitting on the rack for 8 hours and someone wipes the fluid off in the mean time. It’s not going to show a leak now is it?
You would not happen to know the number of the regional rep in this area?
Thanks again,
Rob
Also, regarding the lemon law in Georgia it expires at 14k and of course I have 16k. Imagine that.
Every time they find something they do not have the part and they have to order it overnight.
Here in Florida it’s 2 years for Lemon Law. I learned this from my 03 F-150 and 06 Silverado which I did take to 3 dealerships with no luck in it. Let me go see in my truck… Be back
To find a dealer near you # 1-800-331-4331. Toyota Customer Experience Center # 1-800-331-4331 or write to:
Toyota Customer Eperience Center
Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., INC.
P.O. Box 2991
Torrence, CA 90509-2991
For hearing impaired : #1-800-443-4999
Call customer experience center number if any customer doesn’t think the dealership isn’t addressing your concern.
You can contact this center if you still have issues that wasn’t settled by the experience center.
National Center For Dispute Settlement (NCDS)
P.O. Box 688
Mt. Clemens MI 48046
According to my 2007 Owner’s Warranty Rights Notification Georgia notice to cinsumers has a lemon law rights period is one year or 12,000 miles.
sorry “consumers” not cinsumers.
Thanks for your trouble.
I have an ’05 Tacoma. My local dealership feels it is not their responsibility to uphold their end of the powertrain warranty due to finding water in the manual transmission. I am still under the warranty mileage. They feel that this was due to the operator as no other mechanical failures were shown. Their explanation is that water got into the ‘breather’ which caused the transmission to seize in 5th gear also causing the gearshift to break. Their reasoning is the truck had to be submerged. I am the second owner but the Carfax was clean when i bought it almost 4 years ago. I know i’ve never had the truck submerged. I have driven through puddles on access trails to access fishing locations. I also live in PA where snow is abundant in winter. Can there be a design issue, faulty breather, location of breather, that normal road / trail / snow driving creates this problem to occur, or any other reasonable explanation to this situation. Help.
No way would water in the breather get into the tranny.
Jon, can you elaborate on that… I am not familiar with the specific workings of the breather/tranny configuration. more, less…why is this not viable?
Dan-
The breather feeds air to the engine. The engine is connected (mechanically) to the tranny. No fluids go between the tranny and engine, especially something sucked into the breather.
No IF if was submerged under water, water could have gotten into the tranny other ways but not via the breather.
Did I make it clear as mid? 🙂
Dan the only way I can see water getting into the manual tranny is through the seals. Either the rear seal or the front seal is letting water in somehow.
Dan – That’s rotten news for sure. Sounds like the first owner is responsible…did you buy it certified used? If not, the dealership that sold it to you may have some liability. If there’s any good news here, it’s that water doesn’t get into transmissions “naturally.” Therefore, the previous owner submerged it. The trick is going to be proving that it was the first owner and not you…but if you can demonstrate it was underwater before you bought it, most states will call that flood damage. In these states, it’s usually illegal to sell a vehicle with flood damage without disclosing that fact. If I were you, I would a) take a look at the title and ensure it doesn’t indicate you have a salvaged vehicle b) contact the selling dealer and tell them your story c) attempt to determine when the car was underwater (look for evidence of title transfer and correlate that with flooding) and d) contact the dealer licensing board in your state. Of course – and I only say this because I feel obligated to be completely thorough – if it was you that submerged the transmission, it’s a waste of time to try and hang it on someone else. Good luck.
December of 2008 I purchased a new Tacoma 2 wheel drive w/automatic trans. The first 2500 miles I had no problems with the truck. After 2500 the cruise control started down shifting into 3rd and immediatly into 2nd up to 3rd down to 2nd while going up a hill. Took it the dealer, told the service writer what it was doing. They checked the computer for codes, found none, he took it for a drive, told me that there was not a problem. When asked what hill he tried it on and found out that it was driven on flat ground. Took it back and the writer and a tech took it and tried it on a hill and it did not do it. Was told there was no code so there was nothing wrong. Tried Toyota Torrance got told they all do this. Wrong, I have talked to six other owners and they were not having this problem. Called the regional office and they sent there tech and he and the service manager took it to the same hill that they could’nt get it to down shift. Same result. The regional tech returned and drove it to where I had told them that it would do it. He stated that it happened and that he had it on his laptop and would send the information on the engineering dept. Two days ago I received an email from the sevice manager. Region sent an email that said ” Sorry nothing is being done about this issue. I guess he can manually shift to stay in third gear.” Four days ago it did it’s thing on flat ground. I am a disabled Veteran and have to travel 75 miles for medical treatments, one of the things that I deal with is a problem with my right foot and have to have a usable cruise control. Is there any thing that I can do get this resolved????
Philip – I don’t think that you’ll be able to get much more done at this point. To be honest, it sounds normal to me as well, but I haven’t driven the vehicle. The fact that it started happening after 2,500 miles could mean that the truck’s computer as decided this particular adaptation matches your driving style. Have you asked the dealer to reset the computer? This might “fix” it, restoring the engine computer to the default settings.
JASON
Computer has been reset, surprise surprise no change. Why can’t I get what I am paying for, a cruise control that works? I sold Toyotas for this dealership, I did everything I could to make sure my customers were satisfyed. I can not recomend Kendall Toyota of Eugene Oregon and Toyota to anyone. How do spell rip off?
Philip – Does the cruise control not work, or does it just not work the way you think it should? It’s a critical but important difference. (mis-spelled your name first time around – sorry about that).
I have loved my prius every day I have had it. UNTIL TODAY!!! I took my 2008 PRIUS to have it serviced at the dealership.One of the headlights keep going off.I asked them to check it.THEY told me it would cost me $150 to replace the bulb and $315 labor!!!It appears to me that toyota Built this car so that you have to pull most of the front bumper to install this bulb.You would think if you can design a car often called the “SMART CAR”,you should make changing a light bulb cheaper and easer.I live on a retirement check and can not afford $465 to replace a bulb.Please guide me in another direction,one not so expensive.Thank You for your assistense!!!
Bonnie – You won’t get any arguments from me on the stupidity of the design. Unfortunately, I don’t have a lot of ideas. My suggestion is to contact an independent Toyota repair shop. You might be able to cut that labor cost in half.
Bonnie that’s for both bulb replacement. Also your manual shows you how to replace the bulb too. Actually when I went to price the bulb for my wife’s 07 Prius it was $175 per bulb and it would have cost about the same $465 for both bulbs being replaced. Just two weeks ago I got a letter from Toyota stating they lowered the price to $150. You can find the bulb’s online for $125. They do have LED for the Prius which are alot less on ebay. I think maybe $25 a bulb. I was told they just came out with these LED’s because no one can afford the HID’s since they are having trouble with the ballast on those. Your manual shows you how to replace both front and tail lights. So you can get someone to help you with it. For us both lights keep on going out every now and then. I was told it was suppose to be a lifetime bulb but it isn’t so don’t believe that. LED’s come on right away when you turn them on at full intensity as for HID’s you notice they start off low and then warm up and get very bright. THat’s because the amount of voltage being shot through those bulbs. LED’s will do fine. I will have to do some research to find out exactly the name and size of LED bulb you need.
Thanks Mickey,I will try your advise and let you know.
Mickey – Thanks man. I always appreciate the fact you jump in and help out where you can. Awesome.
Bonnie try going to http://www.priuschat.com that’s where I went to get info on the Prius. What I found was the D2R/D4R is a regular bulb but you need the reflector housing to make that work. What we have is the D2S/D4S which is the HID version. No problem Jason. Since I went through that ordeal a couple of months ago. Still have the original bulbs in place. Until they finally quit then I will get replacements.
Ongoing problem with 2004 Toyota Sequoia.
Started November 2009, Sounded like wheel bearing noise, couldnt tell where exactly noise was coming from , to to Nourse Chillicothe Automall, paid for professional diagnosis. They said it was Driver Side Rear wheel bearing. I replaced with all new ($340 total parts and Napa bearing press) did not fix noise at all. Took back to dealer, they told me they would then re-diagnose it free “we never charge for the same job twice”. Came back 6 hours later, dealer wanted $440 to diagnose “better”. Asked for refund of 1st wrong diagnosis, got it. Left Angry. Called Toyota and Nourse Chillicothe Customer Service, Cust Service said they would help me and get Toyota to help financially after Christmas 09. Well, its now FEB 1, 2010 and dealer nor Toyota will even respond to emails of phone calls! Guess they are too busy with the recalled gas pedals to help an average Joes problem thats driving me nuts!
Jon – I don’t understand the issue – the dealer refunded the initial repair, correct? What have they done wrong?
Dealer stated “We never charge for re-diagnosing, NEVER” So I took my Sequoia back in to get the noise diagnosed, went to pick it up and they wanted over $400 to diagnose the problem. They DID finally refund the original $110 diagnosis fee after I raised a stink.
I am STILL out the $$$ for the initial repair that I had done based on their admittedly wrong 1st diagnosis. AND the problem continues, The Dealer CALLED ME in Dec. stating they would make it right, and get Toyota involved to fix the issue. STILL HAS NOT HAPPENED after multiple emails, calls & visits.
Jon – So the dealership didn’t install the right parts on the first repair, and while they did refund the initial diagnosis fee, you’re looking for them to refund the initial repair costs as well, correct? If so, this is a classic problem that consumers and repair shops face everywhere. Usually, auto repair shops protect themselves by telling you before any work is done that the repair may or may not solve the problem.
In any case, I would suggest you request that the labor charges from the first repair go towards the second repair. It’s not really reasonable to expect a refund on the new parts you had installed (who knows, you might have needed a rear wheel bearing anyways), but you should be able to get the dealer to credit the cost for their time. In fact, this is standard practice. I’m surprised the dealer didn’t offer to do this already, but it sounds like your case might be more complicated.
Yeah I’m out +$300 in parts I didn’t need.
Problem still there.
I can not afford to pay them to plug and pray parts on my car, I need an actual correct diagnosis and repair. They are unable to do so.
I’m not looking for any refund, I JUST WANT THE VEHICLE FIXED.
Jon I feel for you on that. I had my issue with an 06 Silverado and 03 F-150. I had ABS issues on the Chevy and they so called cleaned and inspect but charged me $100 since I had over 7,500 miles. I had to go back 3 days later because the vibration was ridiculuos in the rear of the truck. Then they proceeded to turn all 4 disc and charged me another $200. I had gone round and round about you didn’t fix it the first time and you charging me again for the same issue. I didn’t get back my original $100 so when the vibration came back a week later I gave up traded the truck in. Hopefully those techs will get this right. I also been on that side of the street back in 76-77 working at a Chevy dealership fixing issues. I know back them when you had a repeat that came back in for the same issue you were counseled and it went into your record. I guess after so many you were probably fired.
Jon – The dealership shouldn’t charge you for labor on repairs that don’t work, but like I said I think it’s fair to pay for the parts. You might have needed them anyways, and it’s not like brand-new parts don’t have a value (especially if install is free).
As to your larger point, the dealership does need to fix the car. Noises can be really hard to diagnose sometimes – I’m not saying this to defend the dealer, more so that you know what to expect. Any shop can make this kind of mistake, so before paying for another fix that may or may not work, you might get a second opinion from a 3rd party. Good luck.
QUOTE “Jon
Jon – Just like your doctor doesn’t always know what’s wrong when you’re sick, your mechanic doesn’t always know what’s wrong when your car is broken. Cars are very complicated, which is probably why you paid the dealership to try and fix it instead of fixing it yourself, correct?
Dr.s are “practicing” medicine.
I paid for a professional diagnosis and got screwed.
I hope my mechanic is not “practicing” auto repair, they should be trained and have the proper tools to diagnose what the average “joe” can’t.
Now Toyota is too busy with recalled gas pedals and Prius brakes to take care of the everyday customer.
Jon first sentence is true. 2nd sentnece I agree. Also even if the doctor is “praticing ” medicine if he/she makes a wrong call lawsuit follows.
I have a 2000 Tundra (185K miles) with a flex plate (drive plate) that has failed at the crankshaft connection. It also has many small fractures that have not failed yet. I talked to the service manager at the local dealership explaining that the problem developed over a long period of time, perhaps within the warranty. I suggested that since I have taken the drive plate out myself that the fair thing for the dealership to do was to pay for the part. The list price of the part is $234.00. His firm answer was no. The price seems very high for a piece of formed 10 or 12 gage cold rolled steel and the ring gear.
The transmission was replaced at 90,000 miles and the drive plate could have been reinstalled wrong. It seems that the balancing of the assembly is very important.
Toyota’s reputation is going down the tubes very quickly.
Any suggestions on obtaining the drive plate from Toyota?
Thanks,
Henry
I am a 2005 model TOYOTA YARIS owner.
While driving the car the gear gets to neutral position automatically and the failure lamp lights. It is happening while driving in a real crowded traffic.
I went to the service and they said that this problem was because of MMT ( Multi mode transmission ), and our guaranty was expired.
We can not give any harm to the MMT ( Multi mode transmission ). This must be a manufacture problem. And we only have 39000 km. How can the transmission gets harm after 39000 km. I have searched over the internet and found that we are not the only one. There are lots of people suffering from the same problem.
Can anyone understand how can I give any harm to a transmission after 39000 kilometer
ilker
I have a 2002 Toyota Sequoia limited 4×4. The owners manual reads that I should be able to shift into 4wd high while on the move and in drive. I never can. I always have to stop my vehicle put it in neutral, drive backwards, forward, sometime several times to get the 4×4 to engage. I have been to 2 different dealerships. I went on a drive with a service tech ( mechanic ) he felt there was possibly a problem. The end result at both dealerships was that they could not find a problem. They all tell me that the best way to shift and the easiest on components is to put in neutral. I don’t care what the best way is, I want it to do what the owners manual says it can and should do. Have you heard of this issue? I have an extended warranty through my finance company, not Toyota, so I’m surprised that they just don’t come up with something to make some money. Maybe replace the whole tranfer case. Been to the dealer 3 times now in 1.5 years. Warranty is almost gone. Any ideas?
Jon – Sorry man, but I’ll never agree with that logic. Fixing cars isn’t as precise as people want to think. I understand your frustration, and it’s obvious that the mechanic could have done a better job diagnosing the problem, but you’ll never find a mechanic that gets every repair right every time. Cars are just too complicated. Anyone who’s spent any time in a shop will tell you the same.
Henry – It’s an interesting argument you’re making, but it won’t go anywhere. After 185k miles, there’s no telling how that part failed…so there’s no chance that Toyota or the dealer pays for any portion of that repair. More to the point, after 185k miles, most gasoline engines fail regardless.
ilker – Not familiar with that vehicle problem – sorry.
Kenny – That is odd – sounds like the automatic switching system isn’t engaging properly. What troubles me is that dealer says they can’t find the problem…it sounds like you’ve tried a few places, but my suggestion is to try another and make them find the problem.
i would like to repond to joyce c. regarding thumping sound with her 2005 highlander when she accelerates again after slowing down. i have the same issue with my 2006. it happens when i am cruising at around 5 to 10 mph and abruplty give it a little gas, there is a thumping sound like the engine mounts are loose and the engine/transaxle is hitting someting. I have noticed this when the car had only 10k miles or so on it. i have taken it to the dealer several times and they told me they could not duplicate it…….first baloney. I have other issues with hesitation during acceleration. there is a momentary delay when you step on the accelerator before it catches and moves. it does not matter what speed the car is going. somehow it does not feel that the engine has a linear reponse to the accelerator movement. Very disconcerting when you are turning left against traffic. I have a feeling it is a software issue on their drive by wire. It has been like this from day one. I even sent NHTSA an email regariding this problem but have not heard from them although I’ve read NHTSA is just too close with the manufacturer and will believe what the manufacturer tells them. Again, I have complained to the dealer and they told me it is normal……second baloney. At around 30,000 miles, I started hearing distinct whirring and ticking sound coming from the engine when idling even with the radio on low volume. Not what you would expect from a Toyota – or any car – with only that many miles. I took it to the dealer at 34,000 miles and their “quality” control technician said it was normal……3rd baloney! Like a lot of you, I have been a loyal Toyota customer, the Highlander is the 5th and have convinced two of my relatives to buy Toyota’s but I am beginning to lose faith in them. I think Toyota has been trying to get too big too fast – to beat GM – and they are losing control of their quality. Toyota is getting to be a victim – and victimizing the customer in the process – of their own success!! My next car will be a Honda or a Ford….bye, bye Toyota!!
Jerry G.
Im with you on that!
I’m so fed up with getting the run around with Toyota! My 04 Sequoia is making the same “thumping” noise you have and my dealer can’t find the problem and Toyota won’t man-up and help AT ALL.
I’ve owned nothing but Toyotas since 1981 and I’m really considering switching soon!
I feel your pain buddy!
Jon
Did you all hear about the recall on the “Toyota Lawnmower”?
Video :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Jj8_87VDHc
Jerry and Jon – U-joints? That’s a pretty common fix, and the symptoms you’re describing fit. Let me know how it goes.
For the past 11 months I have been trying to get the cruise control on my 2009 Tacoma fixed. A tech from the district office drove the truck and it did it’s thing for him. He stated that it is in the computer, and that they had the same problem in the Sienna in the past. Nothing has been done about the problem as it has not caused the death of a bunch of people YET.
When Mr. Toyoda comes to this country and if he wants to commit Sepaku (Hari Kari) I would glad to be his second (the person who cuts his head off after he stabs himself in the guts)
Philip – That sounds like a positive development for sure. The fact that Toyota can both replicate and acknowledge the problem is a good sign something could get done. Have you managed to locate anyone else with the same problem?
I talked to 15 or so Tacoma 09 owners, not one of them has had or heard of any problems with the cruise control.
ON 01/31/02 I RECEIVED THE FOLLOWING MESSAGE FROM TOYOTA
and I quote the complete message. “Sorry but nothing is being about this issue. I guess he can manually shift to stay in 3rd gear.
I spent a bunch of money for an automatic transmission and the package with the cruise control, if I had wanted to shift I would have bought a standard transmission.
It sure feels like I got screwed with my pants still on. My offer to Mr toyoda still stands.
Philip – This brings me back to my previous question – is the cruise control not working correctly, or not working the way you think it should? If the answer is “it’s not working correctly,” and you’ve got confirmation from Toyota on the problem, the solution is a lemon law claim.
Hi
I bought an used Toyota Avalon 2000 XL car 3 years ago. From the day one I experienced acceleration issue. I thought this could be some tunning issue.
Now I am pretty sure this is also having the acceleration problem.
But this model and car of the year are not listed by Toyota in a re-call.
Any clue, how this can be fixed?
I am living at Santa Clara, CA area.
Thanks
Siva
Sivarajan – I’m pretty sure your 2000 Avalon has an old-fashioned throttle cable. Try taking it to the mechanic – it sounds like it needs service.
I purchased a New Sequoia 11/06.
I have taken it to different Toyota dealers three times for the same repair and each time it lasts a few months then goes out.
Problem: The rear window wiper, squirter and window cease working.
There have been numerous other electrical problems (battery dies if door open more than 15 minutes, car locks itself automatically, lights fail to function properly, etc) but those seem to be corrected – for now.
But I really would like to have the rear window problems fixed once and for all.
Help!
Mick – Very strange. Sounds like a tough problem. Do you know what they’ve done the last three fixes? Is it the same dealer making the repairs?
No clue what they did.
Three different dealers.
The last one (Minot, ND) called the regional guy – like I say, worked fine for 2-3 months.
No response from dealer
The latest car I purchased from Toyota was Prado, model 2010, (November), Iam enncountering difficulties when I press accelerator slowly car doesn’t move and it picks up suddently with high speed. This has been complaint to your dealer in UAE (Ajman). The car has been returned to me after the service without attending it.
Iam expecting your attention to this case
Mick – That’s where I would start. See if you can get copies on the repair orders from all of the dealers…they might all have done the exact same repair and not fixed the underlying problem.
Noor – We’re not affiliated with Toyota.
Jason- Lucky You!
[…] did locate this link while I was waiting which made me hang up and actually call my dealer first: Toyota Customer Service: Tips for Getting Your Problem Solved | Tundra Headquarters I would really not prefer to bump heads too hard with this dealer since I do like them however, we […]
I have a camry le 2007 which run 27000 miles only. One day when i was driving the car, first engine oil sign came on and in a few minutes engine symbol came on in the dash board. Suddenly I stop the car and towed to near by toyota dealer. There they found there is oil filter.Earlier I did my oil change in a near by econo lube two months ago. But I never seen a drop of oil before this incident. Toyota doesn’t want to take any responsibility, they told me it is the problem of the people where i did my oil chage last time. The guy in econolube who changed my oilfilter do not want take the responsibility. He said for two months there was no problem, if it was loose it would leak from next day after the oil change. Actually who is at fault? Now toayota dealer asking 6000 $ for change a nw engine which almost run 20000 miles. How can i prove who is at fault? Can i file a case against both of them? Who is responsible to fix my car?
Suman – Your situation is pretty awful. The dealer blames the oil change place, and the oil change place argues that they’re not responsible. In my opinion, the most likely explanation is that the oil change place screwed up. If they didn’t attach the oil filter correctly, it’s possible that it would take a few hundred or a few thousand miles for the filter to fall off. However, my guess is that the oil was leaking for a while before you suffered this catastrophic failure.
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As far as who to blame, the answer is that you can’t prove who is to blame because you’re not sure what happened. If it were me, I’d go after the oil change place. Engines don’t just fail on their own at 27k miles…this is a maintenance problem.
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To everyone else: This is PRECISELY why I always recommend having your service done at your local dealership. They’re rarely more expensive than a Jiffy lube and they almost always do a good job. When they screw up (because everyone will at some point), the dealership can’t push responsibility off onto another party.
Hi. I purchased a new Toyota Inova and am satisified with it. I have had many cars in my time and they always are really taken good care of. The last car I had was a 1985 Pontia Parsienne Brighm and it finally died with 387,600 miles on it. I know a lot about cars and have always done my own minor maintenance like oil changes, tires etc. My salesman told me if I did my own oil changes it would voind my warranty. I am 65 years old,retired in the Philippines and am not a stupid man. I know exactly how to do a oil change and use the best grade fiilter and oil, so why should I pay sucha high price for the dealer to do the oil change;when I can do the same thing
Wilfred – I don’t know what the law is in the Philippines, but in the US no manufacturer can require you to do your maintenance at a specific location as a condition of your warranty.
Right around 90 thousand miles I noticed my oil light blinking on when I would turn a sharp corner or have to put on the brakes hard. I finally took it into a service place in Jackson. They put it up on a rack and checked it out completely but couldn’t find any problem with leakage or in the water, plugs, or the tail pipe, etc. so they told me to come back in a week after they toped the oil off. I came back a week later to fine out I was 3/4 a quart low on oil again. They checked it out again and couldn’t fine any thing wrong. They told me to go to the local Toyota deal. The closest one was LODI TOYOTA. Well they told me they wanted to start competely over. So they did an oil change that I had to pay for and to come back the next week. LODI TOYOTA told me that nothing was wrong. Well I checked the oil before I left the house and I was 3/4 quart low. So what’s up with that????????????? I also had a friend verify the the oil was low. So they asked if they could take out the registration out of the vehicle I said sure. Well it’s been a month and I still after several phone calls I don’t have my registration. Now what do I do???
Sorry I forgot to say the vehicle is a Toyota Rav4 2004.
Thanks
I’m lost in why they needed, and needed to keep your registration. Call the general manager and ask him why they needed to keep your registraion the past month. You get pulled over guess what. Helen you get a ticket for not having a registration. Now if they stall you or pass the buck contact a lawyer and go for the jugular. There is something fishy going on at that Dealer.
I have a 2003 Tundra. Love the truck just fine, but my problem is with the battery. I have other cars that I drive and usually drive this at least once a week. Well the battery keeps dying and have to recharge. They replaced it once but don’t think it was new, it went out right away. I have replaced it myself and it does the same thing. Toyota Service keeps telling me that because all the electronics on the truck, it drains the battery and that you should drive more often. Well I have never heard of that before. We have other cars with a lot of electronics and can go for months without driving and they start right up. This we can let it sit for 4 days and have to recharge. Have you ever heard of this problem before or what do you think could be draining the battery. Any suggestions. Thank you in advacne. Harold
Helen – Your car is burning oil, which is normal as a vehicle gets older. As for your registration, it’s probably lost. Sounds like you need to get a new one from the county. If you can talk to the GM at the dealer like Mickey says, you might be able to get something free for your troubles. Did the salesman you talked to about trading it lose it?
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Harold – You’ve got a power leak somewhere…accessories are almost always the problem, but if you’ve tried disconnecting all your add-ons and you can’t make the problem go away, the dealer can start looking for a power draw. What kinds of accessories do you have installed? Do you have a stereo amp that’s always on?
Don’t you think that 3/4 of a quart of oil is a lot to be burning and not see evidence in the tail pipe?? As for the registration I finally got the guy who took the it and he said that he mailed it 3 weeks ago. So I guess I will have to stand in line at the DMV for a couple of hours to get a new one.
Helen – When did they check the oil? You really can’t get an accurate reading unless the engine is cold. Check the oil before you start the car each morning – I’ll bet you’re burning oil, but you’re right that’s quite a bit. Sorry I didn’t think of this sooner.
Helen get a hold of the sales manger of the guy who so called mailed it. Let them pay for it period. You let them know you could have received a ticket for their negligence. They know they aren’t suppose to keep the registration and to say it’s in the mail 3 weeks ago. This guy definitely had your phone number to call you to pick it up. That dealer needs to pay for your re-registration of your vehicle. Simply contact your local action reporter and let him give the news about that dealer on the 5pm news station.
I have a 2002 Tacoma that has been recalled due to rusted out frame. Dealer tells me he cannot get the replacement frame from Toyota. The truck has been out of service for a month because it will not pass State Inspection due to the frame problem. Toyota is paying for the new frame. It appears that since the operation is a cost to Toyota that I will be shoved to the end of the line.
Purchased a Lexus for $18,000 cash – The sales agent promised a few nicks to the exterior would be “touched up” by the time we picked up the car – It never happened – when we picked up the vehicle we were told the paint had to be ordered – Several months later we were told – we could buy the pint from them – but they were not going to touch up the nickes – We complained to the owner – Les , the general manager & the salesman (who has become invisible) – NO ONE wanted to make things right – we filed a complaint with TOYOTA Natonal HEAdquarters – They could not get the dealership to make simple touch ups – Once the dearleship got our money – they behaved with the upmost deceit and dishonor – WE have not recevied one piece of literature from them thanking us for the purchase – and no information regarding the recall – When I called because we are having brake skipping problems – We were told Lexus would have to notify us – since we bought a Lexus – not a Toyota. Iam very frustrated with being “ripped off” and looks like Toyota gets away with no customer service – Do I sue or how do I get them off the dime – Is the ferderal regulatory agencies that investigated TOYOTA a viable resolution agency?
WE bought a CAmry from another dearlership and still receive all kinds of correspondences from them – There is definitely something “unethical” about lLegacy Toyota is Tallahassee, Florida. I will never purchase another vehicle from them.
Ms. C – I think there’s a difference between a dealer that fails to touch-up some knicks and being “ripped-off.” Is it fair to say that your relationship with this dealership is completely ruined? If so, that might be the source of a lot of your anger.
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In any case, I’m not sure that the dealership that sold you the Lexus has done anything aside from failing to follow-through on some touch-up paint. All the official notices DO come from Lexus, so they’re not lying to you on that one. As far as a lawsuit, I don’t know what the damages to you would be.
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I will say this – any dealership that fails to follow-through on a simple request like a touch-up deserves all the trouble they get. For about $200, a professional touch-up and dent removal person can clean-up an entire car. Dealers: Why not avoid the hassles of upset customers who vow to never buy again?
i have bought 2006 toytoa sienna and in first week i noticed the van shake so i took it to dealership and they change ball joint but after that in couple week it start again and took it to dealership and they say is nothing work with it. but i now after 3 years and 30000 miles on it . one of the dealership saying now i have to check for tire balance or alliegnment. or if they have to change rotar now without warrenty i have to pay from my pocket what a service from toyota
andy – I don’t know if I understand exactly what you’re saying, but it sounds like your van had a problem when it was brand new that wasn’t fixed to your satisfaction. Now, 3 years later, you’re being asked to replace your brake rotors out of your own pocket, is that right? If so….
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The shake you describe sounds like a wheel balance issue to to me if it’s happening all the time. If it’s only happening during braking, then it’s a rotor.
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Rotors don’t always need replaced. They can often be resurfaced to eliminate this problem. Ask the dealership about resurfacing – rotors usually last more than 30k miles. Whatever work they may need, this is considered normal wear and tear. Do I have your question correct?
Ms C I’ve been to Legacy Looking for all weather mats for my Crewmax. I was working there in Tally for the week so I dropped in. The salesman weren’t to knowledgeable about the questions I gave them. Once I told them I was coming for mats they turned around abruptly and walked away without even trying to answer the question. I would think the salesman ther are only in it for the money then cya!. Jason was correct on Lexus having to send you the info but does Lexus has your address? You may have to be proactive on this and see the Lexus dealer there and have them put your info in and see if your car was already fixed from the recall. As for the touch up paint you can get that at the Lexus dealer also. I know they promised you but you have to make them put it in black and white. Make them write it down on your contract to get fixed before you pay. I know this is hard for you to take but this is a lesson learned not to trust anyone. Sorry for the dealings you had. Not all dealerships are that way. Like Jason stated you can find a good touch up man and he can fix all issues of the paint at one time.
Anyone with same problem?
Toyota Corrolla Verso (automatic)
Driving in the rush hour where there is constant use of accelarator and break pedal, the gear switches to nuetral. After a cooling period of 5-10 minutes the car will accelerate again.This seems to have occured since I had a recall in November 2009 to fix the accelator sticking
Toyota does not seems to be able to identify the problem after three attempts. In its manual it does mentioned that this may occur if driving in manual option.
I’m experiencing a problem with the Toyota dealer in Stanger for the second time. The service that i’m getting is very bad. Last year in January i booked my car for a service, i brought my car in the morning at 7 am only to find that at 3pm when i called to check if my car is ready for collection they told me that my car was not yet started to be serviced.
Last week we bought a clucth kit for my husband’s car and we paid a deposit since they were going to order the part. Next they i called and went to fetch the part. On Monday my husband took the car for repairs and to find that that was a wrong part. We phoned them and they said we must bring back that wrong part and they will order another one and it will be delivered the following day. The following day which is today picking the part they said they did’nt order the part we need to wait until 10am they will try and order it now and it will be delivered to the machanic. When the part was delivered it was found that it is the wrong part and it is not the original from Toyota it is a pirate part.
I’m so disappointed about the service that i’m getting from Toyota since i’m the client for Toyota since i bought my first car and i used to refer everyone to Toyota now the service is disgusting and the problem is i’m working in Stanger and it is the neareast place that i can go to.
Kindly try and resolve this problem before it is too late.
kris – If this was 1985, I’d say you were suffering from good old fashioned vapor lock. Since it’s not, I’ve got no idea. I don’t think this is a defect – I think something is broken. I would try asking a different dealer to take a look.
bongiwe – Your Toyota dealer sounds awful. I’m not sure what you should do since it sounds like you’re outside North America. Perhaps you should try calling Toyota’s main customer service office in your country. Good luck.
Toyota verso T3
Problem- Re-investigate gearbox dropping ito neutral.
Got my car today after 2 attempts by Toyota to rectify above problem. Works carried out are as follows;
Carried out diagnosis – clutch position fault code stored.
Identified clutch overheating due to selector fault.
Replaced selector,clutch disc, clutch bearing and flywheel.
Gearbox electronic control unit replaced as a precaution.
Toyota PLC AND Jemca Kingston covered both costs and labour as a goodwill gesture.
Appreciate their goodwill and hoping the problem corrected. Will keep you posted
Hit the road Jack don’t you come back no more
Bye for now.
I have purchased several Toyotas (2 Tundras, Sienna, Scion tC, Corolla). My 2007 Tundra with 31,000 miles on it recently (in the last 1000 miles) has started clattering under starting acceleration or load. I’ve taken it to the local dealer 3 times. I’ve taken it to another dealer once. So far the comment from both service managers is, “This noise isn’t unusual for these trucks. They sound like diesels when they start up.” It is unusual for THIS truck, which I purchased new. They have searched for TSBs, online queries, and put it on diagnostics. Nothing has shown up so far I’m told. I at least got the second service manager to drive with me and he admitted he heard the noise and that it seemed rpm dependent, but he had no solution to offer me. To me the vehicle feels like there is less power on-hand, and I’ve taken some extended drives lately and the noise was noticeable throughout. Could this be a timing advance issue or catalytic problem? The truck is still under warranty, and I would like to have Toyota address the issue, but I’m beginning to wonder whether a shade-tree mechanic to resolve it if it is a timing matter. Have you heard anything on this type issue? Any advise?
Thanks,
Troy
Hi, We got our 2010 Sienna XLE 2 months ago, and our bluetooth microphone has had problems from the get go. Our original dealership tried to fix it, held on to our van while loaning us a compact for 2, 3 days at a stretch and it did not work or the problem came back. They replaced the entire unit with something from another Sienna model, and still the issue persisted. Since this dealership is over 40 miles from home, we picked the local dealer and they have tried three times as well, in vain. I want to take it to Toyota now.
How best to MAKE THEM FIX IT FOR SURE??
This problem has really made our lives miserable with me spending a good portion of multiple Saturdays running around to get this fixed, trying to squeeze the family and gear into a loaner Corolla, having to always take and make important calls at a much later time and not as they came in with no bluetooth in the car etc… Its beyond frustrating! One would expect more for a $40K vehicle!!
Troy – What you are describing is piston slap, and it’s normal for the Tundra. The engine uses a slightly different type of piston alloy, one that doesn’t allow for very low part clearance tolerances. As a result the distance between the piston rings and cylinder walls is larger in the Tundra than in many other trucks.
This piston alloy is capable of withstanding higher pressures caused by the TRD supercharger, but the trade-off is that the Tundra’s engine will clickety-clack when it is cold. However, contrary to popular opinion there is no damage caused by this phenomenon (commonly known as piston slap). The “slap” will not cause any wear. As a matter of fact, most of the truck engines built by GM in the late 90’s have this same issue.
In terms of fixing it, Toyota has made some adjustments to their manufacturing process, and the number of trucks with this slap problem has dropped off quite a bit since the 07’s came out.
Raja – Aside from the process above, I don’t have any suggestions. Are you checking the mic before you leave the dealership? If so, why does it stop working after the fact? The odds of having a defect warranty failure more than once are incredible…any chance the problem is your device?
I have a 2009 Camry that I purchased in Nov of 2008. I loved my Camry until I carried in for the acceleration recall in April 2010. During the time at the dealership, the accelerator pad was sawed off, which I didnot was the thing. My oil was changed and the engine maintenance light to reset. We purchased the car from a dealership out of town of which we had had heard many good things. I had been really impressed by the service department which I had went several times with a friend when her car was regularly serviced.
When we left the dealership in April, we drove to a station a couple of blocks away, and filled the up with gas. We check the mileage, which was 32.5. The was the last time our car has performed at the gas mileage. The home trip mileage was 25.3. We continued to check the mileage for the next two months. My car had averaged 32 to 34 miles per gallon on most out of town trips and around 30 in town. I had on tank of gas that was 29.1 miles to the gal. On a 1000 mile test with 3 tanks of gas the car had a mileage of 25.1. This was mostly interstate mileage. My last tank was 23.5.
In June 2010 we took the car back to the dealership and explained what was going on. My husband had noticed a difference in the way the car shifted and believed this had to do with the low gas mileage. We were told they had not done anything to cause anything to change with the shifting of the transmission which is an automatic 5 speed, nor had they did anything that would cause a change in the mileage. My husband said that he knew something had happened and that a human error must have occured when the engine light was reset. The dealership said they could find nothing wrong.
We call the Toyota Customer Service line and was give a case number and was told over a week ago that we would be called within three business days. No Phone Call.
We bought this car because of the gas mileage. We put alot of mile on a vehicle going to see our daughter who is 5.5 hours away. We would appreciate some advice on how to proceed from here.
Rita – I don’t know what the dealer could have done to impact your gas mileage. Frankly, I’m wouldn’t be sure how to reduce gas mileage by 20-30% if I wanted to.
My guess? You’ve got a sensor that’s not working correctly right now but hasn’t quite failed. The dealership can’t diagnose a problem without a check engine light, but they could try reseting your computer to see if the engine can find the under-performing part. I would ask for that.
Our 2000 toyata sienna has the oil gel issue. I tried to file a claim but was told I was not within the dates and toyota will not longer fix the oil gel problem, toyota should fix our car becouse it is a problem that you are aware of. We have to have the car halled away because it is no longer driveable this car has only about 100,000 miles. I see the commericals of toyota cars with almost 200,000 miles. We did have 4 toyota cars but since toyota no longer stands behind correcting a problem that they should we are now buying honda.
Eileen coy
847 202-1064
Eileen – I think that you’re referring to the “oil sludge” issue, and you’re definitely outside the dates of that program. With an 11 year old vehicle and 100k+ miles, Toyota isn’t going to do much for you. Good luck next time.
Hi Jason & Mickey,
Thanks for the sound advise – Yes, I learned a valuable lesson and the dealership’s behavior is highly unprofessionaly – but commo, since “I trusted” the word of a salesperson – So lesson learned. I will get the touch ups as advised and I have not connected with a Lexus dealership which I will do soon. And the next Lexus I buy will be from a Lexus dearleship – as I do love the car. And I still might sue the underhanded dealership just to expose the “tricky” tactics employed and supported in my situation – just for the protection of next trusting person or “sucker” to be aware of Toyota’s dealership in Tallahassee.
Thanks,
Ms. C.
I have a 2009 Highlander Hybrid that I have very pllesed with. All of a sudden the gas mileage has dropped from about 25 mpg to around 20 mpg. I recently took it to the dealership and explained the situation. They checked the oil level and air filter, both of which had been changed in the last 30 days. They then looked at the average mpg of 24.5 over the past 7700 miles and said everything was working correctly and there were no problems and I should be happy. I explained that for the first 7000 miles of that average it was showing 25 mpg and the last 700 miles it had dropped to 20 mpg. They didn’t want to listen and said everything was working properly. What should I do next?
Charles M – Not sure why these things happen. Sometimes the engine makes an adjustment to the fuel map, sometimes the weather has a really dramatic impact on mileage, sometimes it’s a bad batch (or two) of gasoline, and sometimes it’s just bad luck. Generally speaking, I would:
1. Manually record your mileage between fill-ups and calculate the MPG’s yourself.
2. Think back to see if anything has changed in your daily driving pattern 700 miles ago.
3. Ask yourself if anyone has driven your car other than yourself at any point in the last 700 miles. Different drivers can alter the fuel map.
4. If after manually calculating your mileage you find yourself still get 20 instead of 25, ask your dealer to reset your engine computer.
I have a question I need help on. I purchased a 2006 Tundra 4WD with 36,000 miles on it. I hooked up our trailer for our first vacation with the truck and found at some point in the trip that I was hearing some chatter from the truck. It sounded like the Wheel of fortune wheel spinning at a high rate of speed. However, I would only hear the sound at speeds over about 30mph.
I could not pinpoint the sound so while traveling I stopped in a Toyota Dealership to have the problem checked. The dealership said that the differential had gone bad due to having the wrong type of fluid in it. They stated that this would void the warranty.
This was a bit confusing as it was certified by my Toyota dealership with the warranty being extended on the power train to 100,000 miles. I called the dealership I purchased this from and began to ask questions about this. They were not sure about the diagnosis and decided to send a vehicle to us and then have ours put on a trailer back to our home town.
Once back home, they let me know that they checked out the truck and found that it was the bearings that they went ahead and repaired under warranty as well as covered the expense of getting me another truck. They further said the fluid in the differential was the correct fluid. They did take care of me and I have appreciated it. However, once I had the vehicle returned to me I began to notice a shuddering the truck was doing on slow turns. As time went on, the shuddering would happen while backing up and doing light turns at slower speeds. Because of this I took the truck back in and they said it was the differential and that it needed an additive to stop the shuddering. The problem with the differential shuddering did not start until the bearings were repaired which did seemingly take care of the first problem.
Do you have any suggestions of what to believe? I am not sure any longer as I know some about vehicles, but not that much.
Thank you for your help,
Scott
Thanks for the advise. I have been calculating the mileage, don’t believe driving habits have changed and no one has driven the car. I am going to make an appointment with a different dealship and will ask them to reset the engine computer. Thanks again for the quick respons.
Charles M – For sure – good luck.
Scott – I would say that the diagnosis seems possible, but it’s hard to know. If the dealership that you’re working with is the same place that said “wrong fluid,” I would go somewhere else for sure.
Otherwise, I’d take it to a local mechanic and see what he or she would charge to verify their diagnosis. Can’t hurt to get a second opinion, and considering that it’s only an additive, you can get it anywhere.
We have a 2001 Toyota Tundra, last week my daughter’s and I were coming back from the grocery store, I was driving approx. 33mph on a fairly decent local street when all of the sudden we heard a huge “THUNK” type noise, the passenger front side felt as though it hit the ground, and I lost all steering capabilities, which forced me into the oncoming lane of traffic (thank god no vehicles were coming). After coming to a stop, I got out to investigate, and found that the ball joint had come completely apart. Called my husband, who called a tow truck, who to the truck hoome for us. I called the customer service recall phone number, after I looked into any recalls for this problem, which there were recalls but most included the years 2002-2004, as well as some newer years due to a manufacturing flaw. The way that our ball joint came apart was exactly the same way described in each recall, but after speaking to the cust. ser. rep. she stated our VIN # was not part of the recall, also spoke to 3 local dealers for guidance and/ or resolution, also no help. My question(s) are is it remotely possible that our truck could have the same manufacturing defect that caused other years to fail? If so how would I get either the manufacturer or Toyota to help with or cover all of the repair cost?
In February, the Camry was brought to The dealer in Foothill ranch for the recall;. The “receptionist” said there was no recall, HUH? After sting I was advised to take the car in…they took the Camry for a 3 hour test,
On the way home There was soming dripping rom the steewring column.disgusting, looked like some bodily fluid.
When I notifoed Toyota, they ‘attempted’ to call the dealer for an answer…it has been 5 months and to date there is no answer as to what it could have been, no answer from the dealer and when Toyota was contacted again, they said it was a” dealer problem and what did I want anyway”
so much for corporate help…
Brenda – While unusual, it’s not unheard for a ball joint to fall apart after 10 years of use. Being that you’re outside the recall, it’s unlikely that Toyota will pay for any repairs. It could be the same issue covered in the recall, but at this point who’s to say if it’s a defect? That joint is just old.
What troubles me is that there was no warning – who did your last oil change or tune-up? They should have said something to you about that joint because it MUST have been making noise.
Connie – I don’t understand, you found something dripping but rather than take it back to the dealer for a look, you called Toyota’s customer service number?
Do us both a favor and read the article above before commenting – the answer is there.
, I had purchased a Toyota Altis from Galaxy Motors Motinagar, On 30th May, Ther had given me the car with accessories attached like skirting( front , back n side ).
After 1 mnth I found that the car is damaged from front n to hide that fault , the skirting accessories is fixed n passed on to me uninfmored to me about the accidential condition.This is a shear case of forgery n damaging the stake n reputation of TOYOTA internationally.Kindly intervain n help to sort oiut the matter.I wish to go to media n press fr the same.Kindly advise on the same.
Regards,
bhupinder – I don’t know what the laws are in your area. If it’s any consolation, dealers do this in the USA as well.
We bought a new 07 white double cab Tundra truck, About a month ago I noticed cloudy spots on the hood,tailgate & sides of truck, Met with sales manager & rep, they authorized a complete paint job valued at $5,000 to $6,000. I don’t want new paint job because it might affect resale. I asked for a good deal on a new truck & they said they could not make that happen. I really like the Tundra am I being unreasonable?
Paul – That’s wild. Can you take photos of the spots and email them to me? admin@tundraheadquarters.com
As for your request, I think a complete repaint is probably a fair offer. If you’re asking for that money to be used towards a new truck rather than to repaint an old one, I think they’ll probably pass. First of all, sales and service are separate. Toyota’s service execs can authorize an expensive repair, but they don’t have the ability to apply that cost to a new truck.
Second, unless the spots are fixed, the trade-in value of your truck is reduced. It might be a push.
I’m pleased to hear that Toyota is authorizing a whole new paint job, but a little concerned that one is needed on such a new truck. If you can send those images I would be very grateful.
This is my 10th toyota to own. NONE of them have i ever had a hard time changing oil. I go to an oil shop and listen to them bitch and gripe about how hard it is to get the cartridge filter off. I’ve tried it myself and i can’t get it off and i use to own a Quick lube. Just bought 20.00 worth of tools and i still can’t get it to budge. The plastic on the cartrigde filter is chipping off. This is a 2009 Toyota Rav 4 and it sucks for changing oil. Plus i’m charged 8.00 to 10.00 higher for oil change cause it’s a cartridge filter. I’ve owned 2 other Rav 4’s I bought brand new from Toyota. They had spin on oil filters. Never had a problem ! Any ideas on how to get it off ? Any special tools to take it off ? I now own every oil fiter changing tool there is ! Still can’t get it off !
Alan – I don’t know much about that – the dealership would be the best place to find out the trick. My guess? It takes a lot of work and isn’t something that will ever be easy.
There’s a joke in the car business that goes like this “If the guys that built these vehicles had to work on them, fixing things would be a lot easier.” Sorry to hear your 09′ Rav is an oil change nightmare.
I have a dodge ram that is still under factory warrany. I took it to the dealer over two months ago with a over heating issue. The dealer called the next day saying it was 1 1/2 gals. low on coolant. Im not a dumb a$$. I know how check my fluids. I went in and pay the 104 dollar bill. Within 10 mins. i was back in the shop with the same issue. Next day they called and told me that the heads needed to be replaced. I asked if they were going to refund my $ and they said yes. Well its been two months and I still havnt gotten my truck back and now they say that they cant refund my money. Im self employied and use my truck to make $$$. I have spoken to the GM and he says there is nothing he can do…Do I have a lawsuite?
Dodge owner – I understand where you’re coming from on the refund – paying $104 for an incorrect diagnosis is baloney. Can you remember who told you that you would be reimbursed and when they said it? If so, write a letter to the dealership’s GM with that information, and CC the local better business bureau and your state’s dealer licensing board. Then – and this part is important – send it to the dealership via certified mail (the rest can go via regular mail).
You’ll get a check in the mail as soon as that letter hits their desk.
Tundra Owners Beware = This could happen to you!
Tacoma VIN: 5TEGN92N82Z116059
Shame on you and Max in your service dept. I bought a Tacoma from you in 2002 and have never asked for a thing. Today I called and asked if there was an in line fuse related to the towing package. I carefully explained the issue to Max in your service department. No detail was omitted and after solving the problem myself I am certain that Max knew the answer to my question. After hours in the boiling hot sun, we tracked the tow wiring to a fuse package behind the rear seat. Thanks for nothing Max. Thanks for changing my loyalty to Toyota. If you call yourselves service oriented I’d like to know where it begins because you made one thing certain today. Neither I, nor the 5 people who were helping me today will ever recommend or purchase from Las Cruces Toyota. And I intend to post my comments on every electronic medium I can find including Twitter, Toyota Complaints, Toyota.com, and any others I can find. My problem is not uncommon and ANYONE with Toyota service experience should have immediately told us to locate the 4 fuses behind the rear seat!
I have a 98 toyota 4 runner. Last sept I spent about 3000 at the dealer on new tires, new rotors, tune up,rear break cylinders, transmission flush, differntial fluid change etc etc. I asked them to change my breaks but they said they were still lots left on them. Well january comes around and my front rotors are feeling warped. so I call up toyota and tell them and they pretty much tell me I’m sol. So I take it to another dealership to get them machined. I only put on maybe 5000 km on it. Then a couple of months ago I need to get my wheel bearing replaced on the back. Ok it needs to be done, I am out of town so I take it to another toyota dealer. So they tell my the rear break cylinder that I had installed are leaking. Ok, well they are under warrenty so I should be fine right. Wrong. All the work I had done on my toyota in sept had all toyota parts. Except for the break cylinders, and they never told me that they were not using toyota parts. So now this toyota dealership says that I should call the dealership where I got them done to see if they can do anything. WTF I am about 4 hours away. Why can’t they warrenty it. Anyhow I call the toyota dealer and they say that I will have to go after the company they got the parts off of. So I tell the new dealership to just do the job and I will go after the company. So I get all the work done, and I take my parts to the first dealership where I got all the work done. I bring in the parts so they can see and they tell me that the other dealership should have warrentied it cause they would have. WTF Now thats a completley different answer that I got on the phone. So now I am out the cost of the labour to get them installed. I talked to the first dealer’s service manager on the phone and he says he can’t refund me all the money but will pay for the parts and one hour labour. Ok, I think thats fair. He tells me to come in and drop them off for him to see. So I go one day when he is not there, drop them off with my name phone number, address so they can send me a cheque in the mail. Well I don’t hear anything for 3 weeks. So I call him several times leaving messages and have not heard anything back yet. And Now my front rotors are starting to feel like they are getting warped again. Now I am not heavy on my brakes cause my last rotours lasted me a good 3 years. And now I have to get the new ones machined after 4 months, and not even 8 months after that I will probably have to get them machined again or replace them. I am so sick of dealing with the b.s that I don’t even want to take my vehicle to them anymore. But the part that gets me the most upset is the lack of proffesionalizm of the two dealerships. So, should I contact the dealership again or just contact the customer service. I have had toyota’sfor the last 10 years. And the way I am getting treated I am seriously thinking about going back to nissan.
Marc – I can empathize. It sounds like you’re doing all the right things, but these dealers don’t seem too concerned. I would suggest writing a letter to the GM of each store documenting as much as possible.
We recently purchased a Certified Used 2007 Prius from Toyota of NW Arkansas for my 15 – soon to be 16 year old son – after 2 months the car would not start and we had to have it jump started. Several times after that we would go to the store or run errands and come out and the car would not start and we would have to have it jumped. Each time we took it to Toyota who could find nothing wrong with it. Now – 4 months later – the car has been in the shop for weeks and they were finally able to duplicate the problem and hopefully fix it. The issue is we have called the General Manager 40 times and he has yet to return a single call. As well, the customer service person told us in person she’d go get him and promptly went to her office, turned off the lights and went home – we have purchased 4 Toyotas in 4 year from this dealer and I’m appalled and that service – I think Toyota needs to know how lousy their dealers are!!!
Tracy – That sounds pretty bad…is the dealership owned by the GM? If not, the owner might be available to contact. I don’t think you could get them on the phone, but you could probably send them a letter or email. If the owner is corporate, you can get them that way too.
Feel free to email me the name of the dealer and I’ll see if I can find out for you. admin@tundraheadquarters.com
I have a 2005 Tocoma manual 6 speed. I bought this as a Certified Used Vehicle. Under my extended warranty I had the bolt break that holds my stick shift to the fork of the tranny. So it was stuck in 2nd gear. I had this replaced no problem. Fast foward to 1 year and 9 days( 9 days over warranty ) later.. Same thing happens again. The dealer told me Toyota only will cover the cost of the parts and not the labor.My question is if the problem wasn’t fixed right the first time why do I have to pay anything. But my major concern is that this will be a yearly thing. The tranny was rebuilt and not replaced.
Also the service mananger has been very helpful but he states that Toyota is the one that made the final call..
Chris – I’m not sure about whether or not it will happen again – not really sure how it could happen once, let alone twice – but I think Toyota is being reasonably fair. The warranty is technically over…if it had broken 9 days *before* the end, the repair would have been paid. 9 days after is no different than 90 days or 9 years, because over is over, right?
Having said that, sometimes Toyota will pay for parts and 1/2 of labor…so I’d ask for that.
I’m one of the unfortunate owners of a 2002 RAV4 with a defective ECM that leads to a fried transmission. GM at local dealer was a total jerk when all this happened. I’ve had ALL the maintenance on my car done at the dealership and he cut me a “deal” of $4,000 to replace the ECM and transmission (which died again 10 months later, but that’s another story).
Got a letter from Toyota in late July acknowledging their design flaw and offering reimbursement for anyone who’d paid to have this work done. I submitted all the documentation they asked for and they received it August 5. Letter said refund would be processed in four to six weeks. Today, six weeks later, I called to find out the status of this refund and was told it would be eight to ten weeks from now (September 16) and that the letter from Toyota had a “typo” in it. Asked the customer service person to speak to a supervisor and she informed me she is empowered to talk with customers and she has no supervisor. I am so furious right now I could scream. I just want this long Toyota nightmare to end. How can I get my money back in a more timely manner?
I purchased a 2005 Highlander in 2005. I was asked by the manager if I would like to purchase the “Tires for Life”. He explained that all I had to do was bring my truck in every 2 years to get new tires for as long as I have the truck. I thought this was wonderful and paid over $400 for it. So he put in an envelope and I didn’t open it until 2 years later. I called the dealership and they said that I had to have brought the truck in for tire rotation every 8,000 miles. He said that it was on the back of the contract. I didn’t know that it was on the back until then. I told him what the manager said and he said that it was unfortunate but the contract was void. Do you all make a habit of telling customers one thing and contracts tell another? Do you think I have $400 to give away? Well I don’t. I purchased the contract in good faith trusting the dealership. After reading these other complaints, seems to me Toyota doesn’t give a flying flip about us. I am very satisfied with my hylander, but feel like I was taken advantage of. By the way, what difference does it make if I had rotated the tires or not? If they were in good or bad condition, I should have received my new tires. I am very disappointed in toyota because I was deceived.
Elaine – I’m not familiar with that particular program, but I can tell you things move at a snail’s pace at Toyota. Keep copies of everything of course, and don’t hesitate to write a letter and send it certified mail to all parties. That tends to get people listening.
Linette – I empathize with your situation, but the issue is not with Toyota…it’s with your dealer.
Toyota Motor Company doesn’t sell any sort of “tires for life” program – this is something after-market finance companies have constructed to make a buck. Their plan is to take your money and never pay out. If I were you, I would register a complain against the dealership. If they’re not going to pay for your tires, they should refund the value of the service that they never provided.
I would suggest writing a letter in this case as well, and I would consider sending a copy to your state’s dealer licensing board too.
Just an update… The dealer did great they paid in full for my rental and only charges my the labor that was told to me. The book labor hours was more than he quoted me and he claimed he felt bad and has never seen this problem. Now my fight is with Toyota not the dealership.
Chris – That makes two of us – I’ve never heard of that happening twice. I’m glad to hear the dealer tried to help you out with the cost.
Dumb question, but any chance you’re drag racing your vehicle? Hard shifting under hard acceleration can put physical strain on linkage…I’m not accusing mind you, just offering a possible explanation.
None of the above. It happened bothtimes when I was in reverse then shifted to first and that is where it stayed.
Chris – Fair enough. Any other drivers?
Toyota is going to refund me my money for the labor!!! I sent a few e-mails out and they looked into and said they will take care of it.
Chris – Excellent.
UPDATE: Today, after 14 months of an incredibly unpleasant uphill all the way battle with Toyota, I received a $4,000 check from them reimbursing me for all the ECM and transmission failure repairs. I’m still in shock that this is finally over but I’m very happy.
I had been buying Toyotas for 35 years and loved them, but as a result of the treatment I received from Toyota at the local dealership and at the national level, NEVER AGAIN.
Thanks for your help!
We bought a 2001 Rav4 new. Over the years the drivers seat belt has frayed, so bad it is a safety hazard, plus it will not lock-in properly.
We have talked to the dealership (Riley’s Toyota in JC), and they said they will replace it for free, BUT will charge $200 for labor. This is a safety issue and we feel that parts & labor should be replaced at Toyota’s expense.
We also, have a T100 truck that seat belts would not retract propterly. We had the seat belts replaced once, and still have never retracted correctly.
This seems to be a patern, since we have 2 Toyotas with seat belt problems. We love our Toyota’s, but felt we needed to bring this to your attention.
Thank you for your attention to this matter.
Sincerely,
Mike Reed
Elaine – Glad to hear you were reimbursed – that is excellent.
Mike – There’s a federally mandated safety systems warrantr of 8 yrs and 80k (I *think* that’s the right length…check the owners manual). However, that warranty doesn’t cover wear and tear. Either way, it sounds like the offer of free parts is fair if you’re outside warranty.
Also, I can’t say that I’ve heard of many frayed driver’s seatbelts over the years. Are you using some sort of accessory that frays your belt and/or causes your belts to be used abnormally?
Yesterday,Oct6th2010 I took my 07 camry to Ruda Toyota in Monroe,wis for an oil change. After about 20 minutes one of the mechanics called me into the work area. He pointed out the antifreeze resevior,showed me it was full of windshield fluid. I opened the top of the windshield resevior and it was filled to the brim also.He said he didnot know how it got into the antifreeze container. Both colors were pure blue. If it had been there for some time it would be discolored from the antifreeze. I know it was not there when I took it there. I am very fussy about my car. I usually do my own maintenance I was a heavy equipment operator for 42 years and pride myself on my work ethics. This car has only 24000 miles as we only use it in Feb to go the Kiowah Island in South Carolina. I had to pay them $40.00 plus the antifreeze to get them to remove. I am recovering from major surgery , am 74 years old, thats the only reason I took it in. It would do me no good to fight it, it would be my word against theirs. BUT the kicker is A few weeks before this insident I had the camry in for the recall with the gas pedal. While I was waiting I got a price from a salesman,Dave Bergey, on a new 2011 ,same model and equipment. $8850.00 and my 07. This would be my 6th Camry A 93,95 95 2003,and 2007. Needless to say I wont be dealing with this dealer. I will go back to ELmhurst Toyota , Elmhurst Ill. They are honest people and trustworthy.
John – It’s too bad that the windshield washer fluid ended up in the coolant reservoir. Unfortunately, there’s no way to prove how it got there…it’s just one of those things. I can’t imagine a technician making that mistake, but sometimes the person who changes oil is very rushed and/or very inexperienced.
As for the difference figure of $8850, I don’t know what to tell you. The Camry depreciates less than most cars…if you had a 4 year old Ford Fusion or Chevy Malibu, the difference would have been much higher!
I have A 2006 4 runner sports edition, I’ve been to the dealership twice for the the same defect. ABS lights and VCS TRACKING lights appear on the dash. The problem has not been resolved as of yet. I will take my 06 back to the dealership so they can seach for the defect once again. I’m so disappointed in the way the dealership has not been able to resolve this problem, the last visit to the dealership my 06 was there thier all day. I’m disabled and it’s hard for me to keep running back and forth to the dealership, I need my 06 to go back and forth to doctors appointments. Please can someone come up with some sort of solution to resolve this problem.
Sir
I already bought a new TOYOTA TUNDRA from united state of America from camelback Toyota scion 1333 east camelback *phoenix, AZ 85014 (www.camelbacktoyota.com) and shipped it to STATE OF QATAR. VIN #5TFDW………….
When I request to have a service to my vehicle in Toyota agent in QATAR the agent says that any car which brought from outside QATAR will not be under warrantee. Is this right if so where is the international warrantee which will cover three years warrantee like other agency e.g. (GMC CARS). I am writing this email to bring to your kind attention that my car is year 2010 model and I have to do regular service and I con not service my new vehicle in any other garage.
I have a 2006 rav4 v6 limited edition with option of 7 seats, among the first ones came out. I have had numerous problems from bad speed sensor, anti-brake system issue, bad ignition coils, and other check engine light problems. The most recent problem I have is the loss of power steering. The diagnostics pointed to the ECU control unit. The communication failed, thus the power lost when I tried to turn 360 deg. Thought I have flat tires and apparantly not. It only had this problem one time for a period of two weeks before the unit is replaced. To me it is more of a glitch, and electronic glitch then a bad/defective unit. And because of safety concerns, no one especially me have any hesitation to replace the unit…I mean what if this failure happens on the freeway going at 55, 65 mph turning right by the cliff and can you imagine…getting throw over as a possibility? It cost me about $1,100.00 to replace. I know there is no recall nor still under warranty. Because it is more of a glitch and involving safety, shouldn’t Toyota pay for this? Have you heard of this or similar problem before. No one seemed to have heard at the repair service center.
Thank you,
Richie..
Pedro – Sorry to hear your dealership can’t find the problem right away – sometimes these things can be tricky (lots of computerized technology = more complicated repairs).
Yousef – If Camelback knew you were going to export the vehicle to Qatar, I’m sure that they wouldn’t have sold you the car. Perhaps your salesperson knew and didn’t tell his or her boss, but Camelback is probably explaining their mistake to Toyota right now. It’s against the rules of Toyota’s franchise agreements for dealers to sell cars to certain International markets, including most of the Middle East. As for your warranty not being honored, that’s the way Toyota does these things.
Richie – If it’s out of warranty, it’s out of warranty…safety related or not. I’ve never heard of that one either – sorry to here about your bad luck.
Thanks, Jason! for a clear cut answer.
Richie
Richie – You bet – sorry it wasn’t a better answer!
I traded in a 2007 Camry for a 2011 Camry on July 30. On August 6th, the car was said to be struck by lightening. The car stayed in the shop for over a month and when I got the car back(Sept 21.) my husband noticed that the left window in the back would not go down by the driver’s window panel and the light for the tire pressure was on. The next day(Sept. 22) I called the dealer to make them aware of the problem and I took it that same day. They informed me that I would have to bring the car back the following Mon.(Sept. 27) so that they can fix it. I called back the next day and they told me that I could come back and get the car because they needed to get information from their headquarters on what to do with the car next. I recieved no call so I followed up on (oct. 12) and they stated that they still have not heard from the Toyota Headquarters as of yet. It is now October 19, 2010 no word from Toyota. My question….How long does it take to tell a dealership which way to go with a car especially when I have the car and no one is looking at it? By the way, that speech that you all teach them to give the customers about not leaving the customer’s side after purchace, is just that.. a speech. My guy knew my car was in his service dept, he never even called to ask how I was doing or anything. It was only a week after the sale.
Brenda – That’s pretty incredible, having a car struck by lightening (doesn’t happen often to my knowledge). As for the dealer being slow, it’s probably a parts hold…it’s almost impossible to get parts for a brand new 2011.
My suggestion? Contact the GM, tell him you want them to take the parts you need out of a new unit and/or provide you with a new 2011 rental.
I am having a problem with a Certified Used Toyota vehicle I purchased from a Toyota dealership in New Westminster, BC, Canada. The vehicle should have never been certified in the first place and the dealership doesn’t want to take responsibility. The Canadian customer support was really useless and when I asked if I could talk to the manager of the customer support agent I talked to, she said that I should write to the president of Toyota Canada. I did – three weeks ago. No reply.
I think that Toyota has the worst customer support and the worst corporate culture I have ever encountered.
Do you know the email of the president of Toyota Canada, or someone else I can contact in Canada or Japan?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Tamara
Tamara – What is it that should have made the vehicle ineligible for certification?
There is a list at http://www.toyotacertified.com/inspection.html
which lists all the inspection points. My car has problems with the following:
# Body is free of all dents
# Vehicle is free of improper paint repairs or mismatched color
When I was purchasing the car, the dealer led me to believe that the car was never involved in an accident. Just before signing the papers (over 4 hours of haggling) it was mentioned in passing that the car was involved in two minor accidents, but that it is all Ok now and that it was inspected. I didn’t even bother to take a look (BIG mistake). I really don’t know much about cars and that was the main reason I was in a big Toyota dealership, not in small fly by night operation.
There are quite a few dents on the passenger side rocker, pealing paint from a bad repair job on the same rocker and rust bubbling through the rear quarter panel.
Thanks,
Tamara
Tamara – Got it. I would suggest that first you try and obtain proof that the accident occurred before the vehicle was certified (perhaps an Autocheck or CarFAX report will show this).
If this isn’t possible, the next-best thing to do is to have the vehicle examined by a local body shop that is willing to sign an affidavit as to when they believe the repair was done.
Once I had proof and/or an affidavit in hand stipulating the repair occurred before your purchase, I would send a certified letter (or whatever the Canadian equivalent is) to the dealership’s general manager, informing him or her that the dealership improperly certified the used vehicle as based on your attached proof. Explain that you would like the dealer to either undo the transaction or offer you financial compensation. After all, you paid a premium for a certified used vehicle.
Finally, be sure to CC your local Toyota regional office and whatever governmental authority regulates dealerships in your area.
Thanks alot for your responce to my problem. After submitting a complaint to Toyota corporate office, I decided to go to A different dealership in Green Brook route 22 west, and they found the problem and corrected. The defect turn out to be abs switch, was replaced.
I just had my 2000 Tundra inspected by a Toyota dealer and they are going to put an entirely new frame on my 181,000 mile, Blue book valued pickup of $5700.(retail excellent which it isn’t) I’ve done enough shade-tree mechanic work to know that everything on the body that is bolted to the frame just is not going to come off. Swapping out a frame is going to be a nightmare which will wind up costing me a fortune. Why not just buy the truck from me????????
Thanks Jason,
I did all that except for sending a certified letter to the manager of the dealership. I send him an email that he never replied to and he wouldn’t talk to me when I was at the dealership. The dealership did offer contribution towards the repairs, but I do not think that is sufficient.
I did file a complaint with the Vehicle Sales Authority of BC and I am still waiting for any news from them.
But what I really want is that Toyota takes responsibility for the improperly certified vehicle. After all it does say TOYOTA certified used, which should really mean that the Toyota company stands behind the certification, with the local dealership just being their agent. That was the reason why I paid more for a vehicle, instead of buying it privately or through a smaller dealership.
I can’t talk to anybody at Toyota. The customer service has only one level and the president is not replying to my letter. Is there anybody else in that company who might care about the customers and whom I could talk to? BTW, this is my third (and last if things don’t change quickly) Toyota.
Thanks,
Tamara
Pedro – Sometimes a new set of eyes can solve a problem. Glad to hear it’s fixed.
TundraMac – Many people have asked the same question, and my only response is that some Tundra owners were upset when offered a buy-back. I, however, am with you. I’d rather have a check for the full value of the pickup and a nice discount on a new Toyota than a new frame.
Tamara – There’s a significance in sending a certified letter. Legally, the dealership hasn’t been informed until they sign for your printed letter. Often times the first thing an attorney does before filing a lawsuit is to send a certified letter stating their client’s grievance…sending a letter ALWAYS gets people’s attention.
Also, while I understand your irritation with Toyota, this is a DEALER issue. Toyota empowers their dealers to certify cars. When a car is improperly certified, the dealer is solely to blame.
Send that certified letter (with copies to local regulatory authorities and Toyota’s corporate address, all certified) and you WILL get a response. Guaranteed.
Thank you your site is very helpful!
I was shopping for a Toyota. It took me a couple of days to pick out the vehicle I wanted, which was a CPO 2010 Camry with low miles. After three days of negotiating, we agreed on a price point and on the fourth day, I came in to start the paperwork. I told them I was not financing with them and was paying cash, therefore I did not want my credit checked. The salesman repeatedly claimed they had to check to sell me the car. I waited 4 hours for them to process before being called into the financial associate’s office. He tried to get me to sign a back-up finance plan with them. I don’t know how many times I have to say I’m not financing with them! After declining to sign, I waited another hour. I ended up wasting 5 hours without signing anything. I told them I would bring the check when the paperwork was faxed to my bank. I had to return every day for the next 3 days for at least 2 hours each time because they couldn’t get their paperwork right. They even contacted my bank for specifications and I ended having to return, get the paperwork, and turn it into my bank myself. At this point I was upset. The next day I came in with my check and asked for services in return for my inconvience and time. The manager came out and spoke rudely without me saying anything first and said I would not get any services. The only reason I wanted something in return was because the costumer serivce was terrible. He interrupted all of my sentences as I was trying to tell him my experience in a polite way and said it was MY fault the service was horrible!! He did not try to listen to me or even work with me. I might have still bought the vehicle if he approached the situation differently. He raised his voice and acted like he didn’t care if I bought it. I walked out with a week wasted and no car.
Cmcyalie – That, in a word, sucks. That dealership clearly didn’t care if they sold that car or not, which probably means that either 1) you negotiated an excellent price or 2) they don’t know what the hell they’re doing.
I’m guessing it’s both.
My suggestions for your next purchase:
1. Try and work directly with a sales manager from the get-go. Most sales managers are good salespeople, and most of the time they will get you taken care of adequately.
2. Ask your bank or credit union if they have something called a “site draft.” That might speed up the process.
3. Consider using dealer financing. They usually have rates that are just as good (or better) than you can find on your own, and using their financing makes the process much easier.
BTW, in reference to the dealership needing to pull your credit: This is going to sound crazy, but the dealership is *legally required* to pull your credit report to do business with you. Dealers are legally considered lenders, and some of the anti-terror legislation passed in 2002 states that all lenders are obligated to identify the person they do business with and verify that person isn’t on any watch lists.
Credit bureaus automatically check your name against all known watch lists every time they’re pulled…and that’s sufficient documentation as far as the dealer is concerned.
Sometimes, truth is indeed stranger than fiction.
[…] like you need to find a new dealer. You may want to read this article too – some good information here. __________________ Highwaylizard 2004 Tundra Double Cab Limited Edition 4.7 liter V8, four […]
[…] not give it to you go to the General Manager and if he does not get it right go to another dealer. Here is an interesting article for advice on dealing with service departments. Here is a short article […]
I bought my second brand new Corolla in September of 2008 and from the first week had nothing but problems! first it started when I left my car overnight for the remote starter and XM radio to be installed. The next day I went back to pick my car up and somebody backed up into something or somebody backed up into my car and left my back bumper scratched. I had them supposively fix the problem and all they did was take tape and put it over the scratch. I left my car overnight again for them to fix it and meanwhile they didn’t do the XM because they ordered the wrong radio so they said. They never really did fix the paint on my car and it took over a week for my radio to be done. I got 2 loaner cars from them and the first one died on me a mile from my house, 15 miles from the dealership. They had to come pick me up (and by the time they finally got to me I walked home) and then they got me another loaner car and that was started leaking oil and then bam it wouldn’t start. So then January 19, 2009 I was out shopping and started my car and all of a sudden had this strange noise, undescribable, that started when the engine started then stopped after a minute. So I ran to the dealership which was across the street and they sat in the service department with all the noise and said oh there is no noise. Then in March of 2009 I went back because that same noise was louder and now constant. Again, they didn’t hear the noise. Then again, June 2010 (30000 mile tune up at 29000 miles) im telling them there is this noise i want to know what it is and the service writer told me I WAS SMOKING CRACK AND LOSING MY MIND! What type of employee is he!?! So I got mad and decided I will not deal with him anymore and went to a different service writer who tried to fix my anger with the dealership by giving me 2 free oil changes. Wow, so much because you know I do my own oil changes, for free as well! So I ended up back again because since the noise started I was decreasing gas mileage. At the point I went back in August I was only getting 15 mpg at that point. They told me I didn’t know how to calculate my own gas mileage, considering I’ve always been really good with math and got a degree in college for education for an algebra teacher, hmmm. So I went back 11/26/2010 and I told them I want this fixed and I want it fixed now. I drive 15 miles each way for work and each day am using 2 gallons of gas for work alone, not including anywhere else I have to go and gas is pretty expensive. So they had some guy take a drive with me and we drove down the street to a golf course where it was quiet away from the highways and the service department and the guy actually heard the noise I have been complaining about for 11 months. So we went back to the dealership and he says ok well I’ve never heard that noise before so I’m going to need you to drop your car off and leave it about a week so I asked if I will be getting a loaner since i will be needing to get back and forth to work every day and they said no I wouldn’t get a loaner until they actually diagnose the problem and go in for repairs, if my warranty covers it. I told them that I paid for the extended warranty and they told me that it still may not be covered but if I had them diagnose the problem before I hit 36000 miles then it would have been covered. I then got mad about it and told them if you look in the notes I came in a year ago (they told me it was 1/10) and that I got my 30000 mile tune up done early in June of 2010 which meant that if they actually listened to my problem then it would have been before 36000 miles. I then asked if i can go to a different dealership and they told me that I couldn’t because they have all my information and the other dealership would need it and they won’t send it over to them. My next step if something doesn’t get resolved soon is to get a lawyer and go the legal way.
Alexandra,
That sucks!! I know exactly what you mean about bad Toyota service! (See my comment a couple of people above yours). I was buying a camry and someone I know who works for a car dealership said not to buy a third party warranty. I brought him with me to read the warranty contract, and sure enough, it excludes everything except computer problems! It’s a waste of money and a back door way for dealerships to make extra money. I asked the salesman after reading the contract what it covered. He said everything, then i pointed out, obviously it doesn’t… He had nothing to say. Don’t buy third party warranties!!!!!! Everyone I know who works for a car business says it’s useless. Sorry, but sounds like your problem won’t be covered. Those idiots… I like Toyota’s cars, just not the people behind them.
Cmcyalie,
That’s exantly what they told me but I was young and dumb and excited to get my car, never again. Infact, probably never again for a toyota! Too many problems and not worth dealing with. But see I come in with a strong side. They have noted on my account that I was in there several times for the same thing before I ever hit 30000 miles. They pull this whole warranty thing out on me I pull out a lawyer and sue toyota. I’m not going to play around with childish games. I have the evidence I need and if it gets to a legal state, well they brought it on themselves.
I can’t begin to tell you how much I love my Toyota Pre runner. I purchased this Truck In Fla. In Oct. 2004. What I don’t understand Is why It was recalled now. I have 142,000 plus miles on It and all of a sudden they(Toyota)want to put a complete frame under It at a price of approx. $12,000 dollars. Plus, They(Dealer) have given me a new truck to drive.My flustration Is I was told that It would take 3 Weaks to get the frame and 3-4 days to complete the job. Guess what! It’s been sitting out In the cold for better than 1 Month. (Part’s not In yet)I love this Truck so much because,I have only put 6 plugs,3 set’s tires, 2 set’s brakes, 1 Air cleaner,A new Battery,and at least 47 Oil changes.My point Is, I think It would have been cheaper for Toyota to buy the truck back.($15,000)Now this Is called “Fleecing America”
Bill
Joe Myers Toyota on 19010 NW Freeway on top of everything
else has a communication problem. The uaed car Mgr. agreed
to have the shock aborsber rpl. on my ’07 Toyota Tacoma,
prblem: He forgot to tell anyone, and had it ordered, when
I got called that the shock aborber was in, I went in to have it installed, once that was done, I was expected to pay for it, convientlly the sales mgr. was not in, after getting “pissed” off, I finally had someone approve the
free installation and replacement of the absorber. One of many hassles I have had since buying this vehicle.
Gonzalo Garza
Bill – I agree that Toyota should buy-back trucks with rusting frames, but there are a lot of truck owners who wanted their vehicles fixed. In the end, Toyota decided to fix everything rather than offer some people buy-backs and others repairs.
As for the fact you’ve been waiting, I think that’s pretty normal for this repair – see the comments from others here: https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/05/06/toyota-launches-00-03-tundra-frame-replacement-program/
At least the rental is free, right? 🙂
I have a 2000 RAV4 that I love, but this year it would not pass inspection and I was told I needed a new catalytic converter. My car only has 56,000 miles on it. This is unheard of. The company who did the inspection said this is ridiculous and recommended I contact Toyota. Please help me with this. I cannot afford a new converter and we are barley making enought to get by. Can you offer any discounts that my dealership can use to help us?
Sincerely,
Dennis Mahony
[…] a conspiracy. This is a great article on handling dealers that you think are having sex with you: Toyota Customer Service: Tips for Getting Your Problem Solved | Tundra Headquarters In the end you need to find the the cause of the problem whether you keep the vehicle or not. […]
Dennis – It’s not at all unheard of to need a new catalytic converter after 10-11 years…in fact, it’s very common. Whoever is telling you that it’s rare is wrong – rust destroys catalytic converters just like it destroys mufflers and exhaust pipes. Vehicle miles have nothing to do with it either – just time. In fact, *lower* mileage is more likely to have rust problems than higher mileage.
i have a 2004 toyota tacoma 4×4 with 37,000 miles on it and the emergency brakes froze up on it and i use them everyday.is this something that toyota will pay to repair or is it another flaw in design that the consumer has to live with and eat the cost? i personaly think its a safety problem. please let me know if toyota will cover this repair or is this the last toyota product i purchase.word of mouth is the best advertisement!!! thanks scott
scott – Emergency brake cables freeze up pretty regularly. It is technically a design issue, but it’s something that’s been afflicting cars since they were invented.
I doubt that your Toyota dealer is going to pay for any sort of cable repair, but I will tell you this: If you use your emergency brake on a regular basis, the odds that the cable will freeze are significantly lower.
well jason im telling you i used the emergency brake every day and it did freeze up.if this is a design issue than dont you think toyota would fix it and redesign it so this wouldnt happen again?
Scott – When I said “design issue,” I wasn’t referencing Toyota. I was referencing the inherent limitations of using a cable to control the e-brake. Cables can freeze and break because they’re cables…remember all the throttle cable problems cars had in the old days?
In any case, if you use it regularly and it froze, I don’t blame you for being upset. Most of the time when a cable breaks, it’s due to non-use. Did you have an especially bad storm or cold night in your area? That could have caused it too.
it is winter in ohio and every day and night its cold hahaha but i still dont understand wht it would freeze up. i can crawl under the truck and push very hard on the linkage going into the hub and it will release but once you put it back on it freezes again..i dont know just srewed i guess get it fixed at my expense or dont use it…not much of a choice!
In 2005 I leased a Toyota Sienna from a Toyota dealership. At the time of lease inception I had purchased the plan allowing for the most mileage allowed per year. The duration of the lease was four years. Prior to the lease expiring I made the decision to purchase the vehicle, mainly due to the cost that would otherwise be incurred if I had returned the car. When I returned to the dealership to do such I was given the option to return my 2005 minivan and take ownership of a 2006 model that had lower mileage. Any incurred costs for wear and tear or mileage would be rolled into the new agreement for the purchase of this second vehicle. At the prompting of Toyota employees, rather than a buy out of the leased vehicle; Mr.Sales and Mr. Finance , outlined that turning in the vehicle (2005 Sienna) and financing the new vehicle (2006 Sienna) would be more financially sound, and it was presented that the lease would be closed upon the purchase of the new vehicle. Absolutely no outlying monies would be owed. The dealerships’ employees work as representatives of Toyota financial during transactions, and their inability to complete and implement paperwork as proposed and presented is not the consumer responsibility.
Since that time, I have been harassed by two different collection companies and have had my credit score compromised. All because I am told that there is a disparity of $ 480.64 as a result of unpaid mileage. This stems from a difference of a nickel between having paid excessive mileage for fifteen cents a mile as opposed to twenty cents a mile. I have diligently worked to resolve this issue. After having relentlessly researched the reason for this problem, and have been unable to isolate one person or organizational segment to assist, this remains an unresolved issue. It is unacceptable and insufficient for Toyota personnel to inform me that they have” gone as far as they can go”. Because, I can go no further without proper assistance and simply being bullied for monies not due is unfair and deceptive.
How can I get them to fix this?
K. – Do you have anything in writing from your 2006 Sienna purchase that shows you wouldn’t owe anything on your old lease? It sounds like the dealer you bought your 2006 from either didn’t live up to their part of the bargain or didn’t explain what they promised to do correctly.
Either way, I think that’s where I would concentrate. They made the lease return, and they should have known about the extra $500 right away.
Velwood – I deleted your comment because it contained email addresses and was far too long. The suggestion I have is to drive another new Lexus and see if it does the same thing. If not, then I would return to the dealer that sold you the vehicle and make the tech drive with you so you can show him or her what you’re talking about.
I am leasing a 2011 camry and today I came close to crashing into my garage by hiting the gas when pressing the brake pedel this has happend before at a traffic light, after inspecting the brake and the gas pedal I found that they are the same hight and if my foot is not all the way on the brake it hits the gas, this is not a complaint just an inquire that this should be checked.
My 82 year old father in law bought a new Toyota Camry in February of 2004. At that time, the salesman offered him $500 “cash reward” as part of the deal that my father-in-law negotiated. There was a long list of things that my father-in- law had to follow in order to claime his “reward”. He had to register the “Consumer Cash Reward Certificate” within 14 days after the issue of the certificate – which he did. He then then had to redeem his certificate during the first 14 days after the end of the 39th full month after the issue dated. Part of the redemption package required him to send up his signed certificate, signed customer acknowledgement form, completed, signed and notarized proof of identity, and finally the signed purchase order. Can you believe this? As it happens, he did everything correctly and ultimately received a check for
$11.44 (or some such amount). ???????
If this does not utterly reek of a scam I don’t know what does. The local Toyota dealership may not have known what the were getting into with this “Consumer Cash Rewards,LLC” – and I am fairly certain Toyota USA did not know anything about this company. I am certain that they would not want to create an environment where their clients buy a car thinking they will get their rebate at some future point – only to get screwed by the rewards company.
Anyhow – what do you suggest we do? What are my father-in-laws options with respect to Toyota?
This looks, feels and smells like a big scam!
Todd – I agree – that sounds like a total scam. I would suggest going back to the dealership with documentation and asking for the balance. If they can’t make it right – or prove to you that this was all explained at some point – I would write a letter to the general manager and send it via certified mail.
I’m having problems with my 2010 Tundra V8 4WD. LOVED it until 11000 miles when it lost some of it’s normally incredible power and started occasionally shifting differently. Dealer has said it drives o.k. and shows no codes. Second visit same thing. Getting more than a little upset. What now?
Randy – The best thing you can do is figure out how to replicate the problem on your own, then ask one of the dealership’s techs to ride along so you can show him or her what’s happening. It’s hard to diagnose an odd shift pattern – best of luck to you.
My fiancee called me the other day while I was out of town stating that her car, a 2008 Toyota Camry non-hybrid, wasn’t starting. She jumped the car but then found out that she didn’t have any throttle control. Being that she doesn’t know a lot about how to fix them, she had it towed ($100) to the local Toyota dealer we always use to replace the battery. Later that day, the dealer called her and said that the throttle body had to be replaced along with the battery and would cost $1,388.00 to replace and that her warranty expired just 9 days prior. After hearing that, I told her only to authorize the battery replacement and nothing else. I went to speak with the service writer and he let me inspect the car and showed me the code the computer was reading. I told them that we need some time to think about the decision and I left. A friend of mine owns a shop and he informed me what could be causing the code. It ended up being a single 10 amp ECTS fuse (fuse #7) under the hood. I returned to the Toyota dealership and told them that I would like to look at the car just one more time and that I needed the get the VIN # for Toyota Customer Service, I really went to check the fuse. As I reached for the fuse block cover, the mechanic yelled from across the floor “I already checked the fuses, they’re all fine.”, he even came over pulled it out, both him and the service writer look at it, the fuse in question, and said it was fine and placed it back in the fuse block. I then took it out and saw it was blown. Even after that, they tried to tell me that the code was still there and that the throttle was still bad. I stated to them that the code would have to be cleared from the ECU for the throttle to function and so they hooked up the scanner and stated that the code was not clearing. I asked them to clear it again and again the mechanic tooled around with the scanner and again stated that the code was still there. I then told them disconnect the battery. When the battery was reconnected, the car was just fine. By disconnecting the battery, it automatically clears any codes from the ECU. The throttle started working just as it was the day before the battery died. We will be speaking to the GM of Toyota regarding this matter.
Ken – First of all, great work. I don’t think many people would have gone to the trouble to figure it out like you did.
The second thought I have is that the dealer should have offered some after-warranty assistance (AWA). Being that close to the out of service date, there’s a very good chance Toyota would have authorized the full repair. Unless you have a lot of miles on this car, this is the most disturbing part of your story – most dealers ask for AWA automatically in this situation.
While I never like to accuse anyone of dishonest work, at the very least this dealer acted incompetently, and it could be that this was an attempt to sell you some work you didn’t need. I encourage you to write a letter to the GM of this dealership, and I also suggest you cc the local BBB and Chamber of Commerce. They really didn’t do a good job for you.
It’s funny that you bring this up Jason because while I was there the first time, the service writer told me to call customer service and that maybe they could help us out by “covering up to half of the bill”. Well, after I blew the lid off of their “lets rape our customers” scheme I can understand how Toyota would cover up to half because they are still making a killing, even at half off. BTW, the car has just a bit more than 28k on the odometer.
I also remember that while I was waiting for the Service Writer to close out the service order, cause I was taking the car home at that point…..I was not leaving it there for any reason, the mechanice came up to me and was telling me that if the problem arises again that Toyota may offer what they call “goodwill coverage”. He then whispered to me “but you didn’t hear that from me”. This may very well be that AWA you were talking about Jason. Regardless……I was pissed.
I’m glad you mentioned the BBB and the Chamber of Commerce because honestly, I didn’t think of that. I will be heading in there tomorrow on my lunch to discuss this with the GM and depending what she offers me, I may throw those 2 cards on the table.
The unfortunate reality is that this happens every day to customers everywhere.
Thanks Jason!
I have a 2005 prius and love it. Unfortunately the “info” button the steering wheel quit working. I took it into the local dealership. I was told that the button DID work and in the nicest way possible I didn’t know how to use a button. I had to go back and SHOW them it didn’t work. I was told the part was $60 or so and labor was another $80. I should have got it in writing because when I went to pick up the part it was $150 without install. My husband ended up installing the part. That wasn’t the problem. Took the car back for another diagnostic. Since I had it in the shop anyway I asked for an oil change and alignment. When I dropped off the car I asked to speak with a tech about my button. Denied. I asked if I could bring the wrong part back. Denied. During the time they had my car they called me to explain that the buttons (because now it was a few) still worked but only when the steering wheel was in a precise position and it was going to take a new part to fix. They quoted me a price and I ok’d the purchase. When the oil change and alignment were done the dealership offered to come pick me up at a local restaurant so I could get my car. They were to come within 1/2 hr. I waited an hour before I called. I was told the driver was sent somewhere else because they “are buying the Dodge dealership next door” in a tone I was suppose to be impressed with??. I was fuming mad they didn’t have the decency to call me to let me know they weren’t coming! I picked up my car and asked for the quote in writing on the new part and labor. Denied. Told order had already gone to the service department and I couldn’t have it as the parts department would no longer order it if I was given to me. Fuming mad again. Got in my car and steering wheel wasn’t as straight as it could have been but it drove straight. Irritated. Had to call back and use the my “husband said” routine before I was taken seriously about getting the quote in writing. I called the dealership and complained about my experience. When the part for buttons came in I dropped my car off and asked the wheel be realigned. Dropped it off on Sunday nite so it would be there Monday morning. Didn’t hear anything by 11 am Tuesday. I called and was told they had trouble leveling the steering wheel Monday and now needed to wait for the alignment rack again. The new part was not yet installed. Are you kidding me???? The service manager called me and told me they were tracking down a short and that’s why nothing was done. Ok- that I can understand. Then I got a call on Wednesday the part that came in was defective and they had to wait for a replacement. I was called on Friday and told the part would not be there until next Thursday. I know I can order anything and have it on my doorstep in 2 or 3 days. At this point I had called for a resolution numerous times. Wednesday rolled around and told my car was ready. I picked it up Friday morning (soonest I could get a ride). They had fixed the water pump that was recalled (thank you!! (: ), they didn’t charge me labor and gave me a $150 credit for the first part I bought and didn’t need. Very very nice. Happy with the outcome. Then I got in my car. The steering wheel is completely biased to the left by a good inch, car drifts left, and when I hit the brakes hard the wheel jerks to the left. I went back to the dealership. The service manager wasn’t in. It was offered that I leave my car for the afternoon and they’d fix it by the end of business. I declined because I wanted the service manager to drive my car with me in it so I can get his take. I called today around 1 pm and left a message for him to call me but he hasn’t so far. I can’t decide if they are just jerking me around or if my car is unfixable. My friend Dave suggested I tape a 4″ hand level to the center of the wheel to help ’em figure it out, but I don’t want to be labeled one of “those” customers who is unhappy no matter what- which I feel is where this has headed. I just want to feel safe driving my car down the road. Have you heard of a dealership not being able to handle an alignment??
Ken – You bet!
C. Hansen – It sounds like the dealership isn’t too good at what they do. No one is checking work, and the management is too busy to fix all the problems their workers are causing.
I don’t have a solution really, because the problem is a lack of attention to detail. Is there another dealership in your area?
Jason,
The next nearest dealership is a little over an hour away. I went in today and talked to the service manager. He explained that it was either the front tire on the left side of the car or the brakes that are to blame for the car drifting left and the steering wheel jerking to the left when I slam on the brakes. This seems like a pant load as I didn’t have the problem until they got their hands on my car. Is this explanation plausible?? I made another appointment to get the steering wheel leveled but I’m not confident they can get it done. I feel like they’re laying the ground work to tell me I need a brake job next.
C Hansen – The service manager is correct in that the tires and/or brakes are the cause of the wheel pulling left during braking. If you had the tires rotated, that could explain it right there.
It could also be that it was this way before and you just hadn’t slammed on the brakes previously.
What I got from your previous comment is that the shop isn’t doing a good enough job when it comes to checking their own work, following through on commitments, etc. Based on your description and my own experience, I don’t think they’re incompetent – just sloppy. If you can go somewhere else, you might be happier.
Dear Toyota,
I have a 2005 Toyota Sequoia and my rare lift gate has broke 3 times in the last 2 years. I have submitted both emails and past history repairs totaling over $700 to Suburban Toyota in Troy Michigan. Also, I am getting ready to spend another $400 plus for this repair. I asked Toyota to see if they would offer any help with the repair cost and to my surprise Toyota declined.
My wife and I only drive Toyota cars and are getting ready to embark on both cars being upgraded.
Guess what… you lost our loyalty for good!! Stupid is as what stupid does. Somebody needs to teach the higher ups that it is 10 times harder to gain a customer who no brand loyalty than to retain their own.
I am a very verbal person who is in the story telling business and I will always use this story as on the best examples of what NOT to do when you are trying to grow your business. Especially, when you have recently been trying to repair your reputation.
Kindest Regards
Thanks for a great site! I just saw a Toyota ad on TV bragging that 80% of Toyotas sold in the last 20 years are still on the road. That makes it all the to understand what a dealer told me yesterday. I have a 1987 Camrey Wagon. I went to get a new ignition key because mine has worn out. They told me that all the key codes over about ten years old had to be purged from the system to make room for new ones and the only thing to do would be to pull the passenger door cylinder at a cost of $90 to get the code off of it. I find it hard to believe that the factory cares so little about existing customers that nowhere in Japan is a copy of the old key codes. What do you think?
Bob
Bob – I think that you should ask another dealer. Some parts systems don’t go back very far, while others do.
Hi,
I have a 2007 Toyota YARIS, 45 DOOR, 5 SPEED. WONDERFUL ON GAS. here’s my problem. Since I bought it, the right hand side of the windshield of the bottom of the windsheld, the rubber began to peel off so I had that slapped back in. It happened again. 4x. This year, it has gotten worse. it’s now spreading to the driver’s side.
This is now # 5. I’m told it may be a manufacturer’s defect. I wanna know what to do to make it permananent. I don’t want the windsheild to fly off or suddenly without warning, to smash into me all on its own.
Hello Jason,
I bought a 2011 tundra and experiencing a noise issue and its coming from the ac vent area ( thats what i think). I took the vehicle over to dealership where i bought the tundra from. But they couldnt hear any noise when they test drove my truck….Its a noise that you would hear when two wine glasses rubs each other ( best i could explaon). Its so annoying that i am hearing this noise everytime i am driving the truck. What should i do at this point?
Hi Toyota,
I have a 2007 Toyota YARIS, 45 DOOR, 5 SPEED. WONDERFUL ON GAS. here’s my problem. Since I bought it, the right hand side of the windshield of the bottom of the windsheld, the rubber began to peel off so I had that slapped back in. It happened again. 4x. This year, it has gotten worse. it’s now spreading to the driver’s side.
This is now # 5. I’m told it may be a manufacturer’s defect. I wanna know what to do to make it permananent. I don’t want the windsheild to fly off or suddenly without warning, to smash into me all on its own. Any tips on this?
I have a 2005 Toyota 4runner v8 with the 17inch wheel option, approx 78000 miles took in for brake job , shaking steering wheel when pressing brake pedal(has been happening for last 5000 miles, the mechanic said i had a warped rotor but the rotors(12 1/2 size) was for 16 inch wheels and 17 inch should have larger rotors 13 1/4 ? Is this true and what should be done
I bought a 09 Toyota corolla one week before my wedding after my wedding my wife and I are coming to a four way intersection when the car did not stop at all.The car have been to repair 7 times and all of the 7 times they found something wrong with the brake system now Toyota world of Lakewood service Deparment said to me TO bring my car some where else All i ask was for safety for my family but no there very rude PLEASE HELP TODAY IS 3/24/11 and the car still has problems
Richard – See if you can get the technician to ride along with you and then point the noise out to him or her.
Mike McCarthy – If the windshield weather stripping wasn’t installed right (and sometimes they’re not), they’ll just work themselves loose and become really annoying. If I’m reading your comment correctly, no one has tried removing and replacing the seal, correct? If that’s the case, I’d have that done.
On the other hand, if you’ve had that done four or five times now, then my next stop would be the dealership to see what’s gone wrong. I’m not aware of any design problems with this, only I do recall seeing something about this on another model…
Mel York – I’m only 98% sure when I say this, but I don’t think Toyota (or any other manufacturer) places larger rotors on vehicles UNLESS they’re part of a performance package. Therefore, you probably have the rotors you’re supposed to have…unless someone replaced them with the wrong part at some point in the past. In any case, you just need the rotors turned.
Eduardo – A dealer can only fix something they can replicate. If you have a safety issue, the best thing to do is try to figure out a way to make that problem and then show them how it happens. Good luck.
Have taken car to get latch or electrical problem resolved at Antwerpen, Clarksville, Md and called numerous times (no one calls back) Yale and Steve do not reply. Passenger door unlocks overhead light comes on message of front right door open. This is not the first time I’ve had problems with the dealership I purchased my Avalon from. Will not recommend this dealership to anyone. My problem needs to be solved.
PS: Also, this door was purchased from Toyota to replace another one. The problem should not be mine to solve this should be resolved by the dealership and the mfg.
Margaret – Why was the door replaced in the first place? If you had an accident and the body shop that replaced your door took a shortcut, that could be the source of all your problems.
I have a different issue. I bought a 2007 Camry.
I took it for an oil change and I was disappointed in the service at the dealership, so hence forth I took it to a Regular- Major Chain- Auto Shop very near my home. Thought they could handle a simple oil change – BIG Mistake!
The mechanic failed to tighten up oil filter properly.
The oil leak was super slow and not detectable to moi a non mechanic. Long story short- car left me stranded in middle of a three lane highway when on my way to work :/.
I had it towed to a friend of my brothers for evaluation.
And I was shocked to learn that the oil had all leaked out and the engine seized, and died.
Now I’m trying to figure out how to get good service with a local dealer so I can trust they put it back together, which seems like a wiser move- Having engine replace by a Toyota Certified Mechanic. Does anyone have a suggestion as how to handle any of my situation?
Oh and btw…the Shop who did the shoody maintanece says they are Not responsible!
So I am left out in the cold, and I’m still making payments on the vehicle.
Ralph hayes toyota of Anderson SC.,the place we purchased my 2009 tacoma trd sport,4 door long bed 4wd recently sent us a letter telling us tha we qualified for 0% owner loyalty rifinancing.I knew that there must be strings attached,so I called and asked for a salesman to find out the real deal before driving an hour out there,the salesman was Steve Rhodes,and he informed me that I would have to purchase a new truck to qualify.I told him that I was not interested in a new truck,but would be very interested in agood low mileage used highlander.HE (Mr.Rhodes)then told me that the 0% also applied to certified used vehicles as well.I made an appointment with Mr. Rhodes for the next day,and looked at their inventory on the internet and chose a very nice certified 2010 highlander with less than 6000 miles,printed the flyer,and wen to my appointment.After looking over and test driving and deciding to buy the vehicle,Mr. Rhodes then tells us that the 0% does’nt apply.we argued and I had to leave but my wife stayed to negotiate.She kept calling me with counter offers,and finally Mr.Rhodes and I had a heated exchange in which he insulted my wifes credit and I requested that he have someone drive the highlander up his rectum.Ireported this to his supervisor,a sales manager named Mr. Evans but no action was taken.In the process ,Mr.Rhodes lost our vehicle registration.My wife called them because I was very angry at this point,but no one could help her.I called and informed Mr.Evans that if my registration issue was not resolved by the end of buiseness today 04/29/2011,then I wouldstart filing complaints with the BBB.and the State Attourney Generals office for deceptive buisiness practices.I AM STILL STRONGLY CONCIDERING IT EVEN THOUGH THEY MANAGED TO RESOLVE THE ISSUE BY FAXING US A COPY OF OUR REGISTRATION IN ABOUT 45 MINUTES.BARRING A MIRICAL,FORMER LOYAL TOYOTA CUSTOMER,AND FUTURE FORD OWNER,WILLIAM OWENS
Kat – That’s awful – I would definitely complain to the BBB about your experience with whatever chain it was that didn’t tighten your filter.
Generally speaking, I always recommend dealership services for a newer vehicle for this very reason: If they make this kind of mistake, Toyota will usually force the dealer to make it right.
As for the next step, I would talk to a lawyer…seems like you might be able to get somewhere in court if you can prove they were the last ones to touch the filter.
I have a 2008 RAV that is out of warranty because I’m over mileage. Recently the sunroof stopped working will not open at all. I was quoted $1200 to repair at dealer. Contacted customer service manager. Gave me phone number for National; but I understand nothing will happen. Any ideas on how to proceed? I buy Toyotas because my last two have been wholly trouble fee (each car lasted 10 years).
I have to fix the amount quoted $1994!! My mileage has nothing to do with sunroof use!!
Jody – That’s an expensive repair. You should try requesting something called “after warranty assistance” – if you’re just barely out of the mileage limit, you might get the problem covered.
As far as process, the article at the top of this page spells out exactly what I would suggest you do.
I went in for Six months service for our new to us certified Toyota Tacoma. The Dealership had a coupon for oil change tire rotation multipoint vehicle inspection. The truck was in the service bay all of about fifteen minute and I watched for at least ten of those minutes. The other six minutes I could see the truck and it was up all the way up on the rack like it was getting oil change. I crawled under the truck and looked at the oil filter and it looked old and dirty. This dealership is ripping me off as far as I am concerned.
RQM – It could be that the filter just got dirty quickly, but it could also be that they didn’t replace it. Have you talked to them about it? Even if they don’t admit any wrong-doing, telling them might help them figure out if they’ve got a lazy tech…
Hello!I have a 2006 toyota 4runner , i brought it in for service on the manual seat that raises and lowers the driver seat.I brought the car to LEHMAN TOYOTA in Miami Florida. The seat frame Well, after a couple of months the seat has the same problem. It gradually goes down by it self and has to be pumped up two to three times a day. I have been talking to the service director albert pratts and he basicly said that they will not do any thing since they replaced the seat frame already.
Steve – If replacing the seat frame only fixed the problem temporarily, then I’d say that either a) the seat frame wasn’t actually the cause of the problem or b) something is happening to the seat to damage it.
Have you asked the dealership if there are any other possible explanations for this problem? If the answer is no, what is their explanation for the repeated failure?
My 2007 Rav4 (V6) had to have its water pump and idler pulley replaced. The labor bill was over 1200.00. 15 hrs labor required, I was told. Said they Had to remove a number of components in the V6 to get to it for replacement. I just need to know if that is in fact necessary for water pump replacement on a V6 Rav4. And is the 15 hr labor charge in line with this kind of repair?
Thanks
I have a 2009 limited highlander. The mirror defoggers don’t seem to work anymore. I have had the dealership look at the issue twice now and they tell me they are working fine and they were designed to defrost ice not condensation??? When I first bought the SUV the mirrors did work. Now the back window defroster has no problem clearing the window when it is fogged up. Any suggestions?
Dan – Unfortunately, water pumps are pretty deep ‘in there’ so they take a lot of time to get to. I’m not sure what the exact labor charge should be, but 15 hours sounds probable.
For what it’s worth, water pumps on newer vehicles fail on an exceedingly rare basis. Sorry yours went bad.
Butch R – If the side mirrors can melt ice, then they ought to be able to clear up condensation too. There may be some sort of test that can be done, but I’d imagine it’s just a temperature reading. If you can compare the max temperature of a defrosting side mirror on a brand new vehicle to the max temperature on your vehicle, you should be able to prove once and for all that yours aren’t working as well as they could be.
Do you have a laser thermometer? That’s a great tool for something like this.
I recently received the most unsatisfying customer service to my 2009 Corolla at the Epping, NH Hurlbert Dealership. What started out as yet ANOTHER visit to the dealer to have an existing problem checked, resulted in the GM threatening me and forcing me to leave the building or the police would be called to escort me out. What’s frustrating is that I consistantly maintained a very casual and professional manner while conversating with this man. It’s he who became unwilling to help me. Wow, what a day, to say the least without going into detail. You just lost at least one, possibly several more if I express this poor customer service by word of mouth as I intend, customer FOR LIFE!
Jason – No one gets threatened with a police escort without doing *something* – I’m not saying you’re wrong (I’m sure you have a valid complaint), but anytime there’s a threat of calling the police it’s a good idea to take stock of what happened. Perhaps unintentionally, you scared that person. 🙂
I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra Limited 2WD with 38,500 actual miles. I bought it from a local Toyota dealer new, and they have serviced it from purchase. June 18th my wife took it to have the oil changed. When she left the dealership it died about a mile later. She restarted it and it died again about the same distance. I came and checked, no oil on the dipstick. After the dealer had it towed the service writer admitted they failed to put oil in it, but insisted that since it runs fine and compression is within factory specs on all cylinders the truck is not damaged. Spoke to the service manager two days later. I asked for a written summary of what happeded and he agreed to give me one. He also offered to extend the warranty on the truck to 60,000 miles on internal engine parts. When I picked up the letter the warranty was for 12 months unlimited miles. The service manager says the GM wouldn’t approve the 60,000 miles he offered.
Leonard – Unbelievable. Hard to know what could have been damaged, but it’s possible that the engine is fine. I think the dealership should offer you the best warranty they can, but it might be hard for them to go much past 12 months. It’s pretty hard to buy a warranty for a vehicle that’s more than 8 years old.
Crazy story – thanks for sharing.
I have a 2010 Tundra I bought new in July 2009 that had both front tires wearing on the outside so I took it to the local dealership (not the one I bought the truck at) after 15 months and 12k miles. The front tires were practically bald on the outside. Classic case of a toe problem, right? They supposedly did an alignment and rotated my tires front to back.
Well, only 8 months and 9k miles later I notice the same thing happening again so I take it back. As soon as the service rep sees my truck he mentions how bad my tires look and asks if that’s why I’m there. I told him it was and that I need new tires now because whatever they did before didn’t work and I have 4 bad tires now. He’s normally a very talkative guy but he got suspiciously quiet. A couple of hours later he calls me and says the tires are in specs and there’s nothing wrong with my tires or my truck. I reminded him that HE mentioned to ME that there was an obvious problem when I brought the truck in.
Longer story short, I ended up speaking to the Service manager who kept saying there was nothing wrong with the truck and my tires are in specs. He even suggested that the tires were possibly defective but it certainly wasn’t the truck because he did the alignment himself. He promised to set up an appointment with the district manager within a week. A week later I called my service rep who acts surprised that I haven’t heard anything and he says “give me a minute and I’ll call you right back”. An hour later I call back and he’s gone for the day so I ask for the service manager again who tells me he has my paperwork but the district manager won’t be down (I live in South Florida) for 3 weeks.
Needless to say I’m frustrated. Should I call the regional office and complain? If they refuse to fix it do I have a valid Lemon Law claim? Any guidance you could provide would be much appreciated.
Sounds like you should ask to talk to Toyota California Office. Your regional Manager should be able to put you in touch with the right person. I think Toyota will replace your tires. Keep your powder dry and remain professional it sounds like you have so far. Mike Erdmon Toyota of Merrit Island Florida took care of my Transmission issue and I live in New York. I wish all dealerships were all as professional as Mike is. Nye Toyota of Oneida New York also aided in my repair also.
My son bought a Scion on May 20th. With his bad credit we knew we would have to have my husband co-sign. They gave us info on payments, son went in the next day had the radio and other work done to it. Later that afternoon dealership called and said that the car could only be put in my husbands name and not both because of son’s credit. We said no deal we will bring the car back. We did get the money to pay for the car outright so it could be put in my son’s name only. Went in and he signed the paperwork. When we got the title and registration and tag everything was in my husbands name. Questioned the dealership and wanted it changed but they keep giving us the run around and saying sorry, dealership was bought that weekend and they don’t know what happened to my son’s paperwork. We have to gift it and get a new emissions test on the car. My son is working in FL for awhile and can’t get back. Why should we be the ones to have to worry about this and why can’t the dealership fix their own mistakes?
I recently went to a Toyota in middletown,CT. My fiance was trying to get finance for a new van.(he has ok credit ) I needed a van because I have a child in wheelchair and my car was not appropriate for her. So he wanted me to have a reliable car. He goes there on a Sat. They have him test drive a 2011 sienna. They said they won’t check if he could get fiance unless he puts a 1000$ down. So I gave him the money since it was for me. I have no credit and not enough income. But before I go on , I have to explain a past issue that happen with Toyota(don’t worry it also has a place in this issue) In 2005 my fiance rented a car from them. The rental department insist on him using his insurance, not full coverage either. Well he got into an accident and the insurance didn’t cover. So the dealship told him he has to pay 1500$ for damages. But never heard from them again. He didn’t pay the damages. So back to this current issue.. so Monday he gets a call and this sales chick tells him he didn’t get approved for the van, but she can get him in a 2011 corrolla. He asked what if I don’t want that? I get my deposit back , right ? She replies ” if you don’t want the corrolla then we’re keeping the 1000$ because of the 1500$ he owed from that accident (remind you after 7yrs they can’t collect). So she pretty much was trying to blackmail him. So he goes down there and ask to see other cars in the price range he was approved for. He picked a 2011 Scion xb. So days goes by and he hears nothing. Always the run around, the lady is not here, they haven’t heard from the bank ect. (And my fiance is kinda laid back about things , he doesn’t even try to talk down the price, he takes what you give him ) So wed. He went there and the guy was like, the girl is out on Thurs and I can’t log in her account, but she’ll call you Friday morning. Friday comes, she calls and says she should hear from the bank in the afternoon. 4:00pm comes by he hears nothing .I couldn’t take it anymore, its my money. I called and asked what was going on (I said I was his sister) I told them he was hoping to have a new car by now because he was taking his mother who’s in a wheelchair on vacation on Sun.(It’s the truth but it was my daughter not his mom) I said should he go somewhere else. She replies yeah he should because they won’t hear from the bank til Monday. And she asked her financial director and said he probably needs a co-signer. So I asked about the refund, she all of a sudden got rude and said I can’t discuss that with you,(but you can discuss the fact he needs a co-signer) then says he knows why we’re not. I told her my fiance what they are doing was illegal. You can’t keep a deposit out of false pretense. Especially from something that happen 7yrs ago. She said well maybe you would like to co-sign. I said maybe but you’ll hear from a lawyer if its not refunded. So now I have no car (my recent car has no ac, and car issues) it took me awhile to save for a down payment, and to just let them take a 1000$ and pocket it? I can’t even go look else where because I only have 2000$ left. My fiance was willing to pay up to 650$ a month in payments. And he’s Good about paying on time. He has a decent job . His bad credit came when he was a teenager and he purposely maxed out his credit cards (don’t ask me why ) . But the last few years he has positive credit. So please people let me know, do they have a right to keep a deposit that was just to check the credit, and 2 people said it will get refunded if he doesn’t get a car. And why did it take 1 day to get denied for a 30,000$ car but 9 days and still nothing for a 17,000$ car? This has to be illegal, what kind of lawyer handles this kind of thing ?
On Jan 20 2011 I bought a 2001 Toyota Camry with 51,900 miles on it, on March 20, 2011 threw a rod. The rod came through the oil pan causing the car to catch on fire. The orginal warranty is 60,000/6 years but this car was one owner with prove of no abust. I would like to know what cause this 2001 4cyd 2.2l engine to blow up causing fire
Darryl – It’s tough to make the case that there’s a lemon law issue here, mostly because most lemon law statutes require you to prove that you’ve lost use of the vehicle and/or spent excessive time in the shop.
One thought: Tire pressure could cause this problem too. What inflation are your running?
Sherry – I don’t know why that dealership didn’t title the vehicle correctly, but I do know that it’s possible to re-title the car on your own…and that’s what I’d suggest, seeing as how the dealership is under new management and it could very well be that all the old paperwork is misplaced.
stacia – I don’t know what the law is on deposits and unpaid debts, but I’d guess that you’re right: it doesn’t seem like the dealership can keep your money if it was expressly given for a vehicle purchase.
However, I don’t believe there’s some sort of 7 year limitation on bad debts. If your fiance owes the dealership money, he should have paid it or got it straightened out 7 years ago.
Ultimately, I’ve found that when people with credit problems take full responsibility for their situation and stop blaming others, their problems go away. Good luck to you.
Frank – No idea. Could be the original owner forgot to change the oil for 10 or 20k miles, could be that they had problems with the engine since day one that they hid from you, and it could just be bad luck. Sorry to hear about your experience – hopefully your insurance company took care of you and you were able to get something else.
My 2008 RAV4’s front bumper is hanging loose as one of the two plastic notches holding it on has broken off. I never have had an accident. The dealer’s autobody guy said, “Oh yeah, one of these”, meaning he has seen a few. He went on to tell me it is not covered under my extended warrant and would cost me $900 to to totally replace. What should I do next?
Sir
I have 2010 tundra and I have small problem with my radio.
The radio is design for UAS only is different from middle east for example all frequencies will be work only in
Odd number 1, 3,5,7,9 while some frequency need even number 2,4,6,8, ,if you need say channel 103.4 you will not get it I will get 103.3 or 103.5 .So if you understand my point just guide me if there any program or software to change the radio setting.or i have to replace the set.please advice Thanks
Jo – Vehicle exteriors are covered by your insurance company. Give em’ a call. 🙂
Yousef – I have no idea…my suggestion is to pull the factory radio out.
sir
what do you mean by pulling the radio out do you mean to through the raidio out and buy a new one.
i have a tuning prablem that i could not have all the channel and the radio is working fine exept the chanel setting.
Thanks
Yousef – I don’t think it’s a tuning problem…I think it’s a limitation of the radio. I don’t think there’s a fix, but I’m not sure. Other people in your country with US vehicles might have a better idea.
I bought a certified used Toyota 4Runner about a month ago. After the paperwork was signed I noticed that the detail employe did not clean the back two windows. After inspecting it, it turns out that the tinted windows on the 4Runner have severe acid rain etching (constant appearance of water spots). The guidelines for a Toyota to be certified state that the vehicle must be free of water spots. The plain language tells me that the vehicle should not have been certified, but I am unsure.
About a week after buying the vehicle I took it back to the dealer because one of the rear tail lights was much dimmer than the other tail light, and the front drivers side parking light was out. The dealer had it for a full day and said they could not duplicate the problem. I picked the vehicle up, turned the lights on at night and the problem still existed. Once again I took it to the dealership. They replaced the bulb in front and determined that the rear light problem was because the entire assembly was after market. The dealer ended up replacing without any cost to me.
Now, about a month after purchase, the drivers seat is popping/moving slightly and the engine cover bolts are stripped (they just spin freely counter clockwise and clockwise).
I don’t want to be a jerk to the dealer, but I am getting sick of these little problems and having to waste my time/gas taking the vehicle in to be repaired. The acid etched windows are REALLY starting to bug me.
Thanks for the help!
064Runner – Not sure that I have any suggestions here. You are correct that the dealer shouldn’t have certified the vehicle, but I can tell you that there are some people who wouldn’t ever notice the window etch, so I’m sure the dealer wasn’t worried about it.
It sounds like they’ve been great up to this point. I think the seat might be warrantied, and if I’m standing in your shoes I think the engine cover bolts aren’t worth mentioning…it is a used vehicle after all.
Thanks, Jason. But, I gotta disagree about the engine cover bolts. I enjoy doing my own maintenance and the engine cover being unable to come off prevents me from working on the vehicle. Also, how could the Toyota Tech properly inspect the engine compartment for certification purposes if they couldn’t remove the engine cover?
I bought a 2009 VENZA used and I just found that when I release the gas, at a speed of 40-50 km/h, the car slows down a bit (transmission is in “D” position), it feels as if I am sightly applying the brake, so I have to give the car a little bit of gas to avoid slowing down the cars behind me. is this a problem? (the other day, at the same speed, I switched to “N” position after releasing the gas, the car evenly reduced the speed to a stop).
064Runner – I see where you’re coming from. I’m sure the tech was able to get the cover off – those guys are usually great at that stuff – but you make a good point. I think that’s grounds for talking to them about it…their tech *had* to notice it. Good call.
2009 VENZA – No. This is normal.
thanks a lot , Jason. I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal and give the car a bit gas when coasting to the red lights. I drove some cars before but no one was like this. I checked the owner manual today after work and it says that the engine braking exists when transmission in “S” mode but doesn’t mention anything about engine braking when in “D” position. I am now so happy that this is not a issue.
I purchased my 2004 Sienna new and have 83k mile on it now. We have had it garaged for about two years since we now have a Scion and Matrix that get better mileage around town. About a year ago I noticed that the dashboard had developed a crack from door to door right along the line when the instrument panel, entertainment unit, and glove box area is. It wraps around the ends of the dashboard on both sides that the doors close into. These areas are not in intense direct sunlight and we have maintained the dashboard on a regular basis with Armour All. But this stange crack has appeared while the vehicle has been garaged. I have owned many Toyotas and have never had this happen to any dashboard. I appears to be a stress crack. I would like to see if this is an issue Toyota will correct for me. I am the only owner of this vehicle. I bought it new in June 2003 from Toyota of Orlando. I have contacted them by online chat and all they say is that “it is no longer under warranty”.
Frank – Doubtful. When costmetic problems crop-up on older vehicles, it’s extremely rare that they are warrantied. I’ve found some other Sienna owners complaining about this same problem here: http://www.carcomplaints.com/T.....king.shtml
It could be a design flaw, or perhaps a manufacturing flaw, but at this point – 5 years and 83k miles later – it’s hard to imagine a scenario where Toyota will cover this issue.
I own a 2002 toyota tacoma with 214,000 miles on it i always taken great care of it. driving to the lake big slam noise and i see that the cam Shaft snapped in half engine gone had to find used engine and cost a pretty penny this should have never happened and not sure who to call or email i have photos any help would be great.
Have any onetried too buy a Yaris at SRMP?? , 5door auto,electrical window with air, The dealer tells me Toyota list vehicle for $16500 and sell for $1700 they make $400 profit and here in Sept when SALE are suppsoe to be the prices are higher.I find it hard to beleive the difference between what the Toyota Mfg price and the dealers selling price. is over $2000 then suggest retail Price. Talk about price controlling there in none for TOYOTA so now the Dealer made my mind up not to buy TOYOTA vehicles anymore, Just who is truthful
Richard, just like in an average Corolla and Camry, a Yaris does not have much mark-up (they make money selling large volume, it ain’t no Range Rover). Maybe the most you’re going to see off a 16k Yaris is about $600. The salesperson/manager probably figured you for a negotiator (or “hero” to use car sales terminology) and left a couple hundred dollars to give in order to make you feel as if you won.
Remember, dealers and salespeople are just like you. They need to earn a living also, and a few hundred bucks isn’t much to write home about. If you don’t like the deals wait until the subsequent month arrives and hope for better manufacture incentives.
When the dealer marks a car price up $2000.00 over MSRP then they are making to much money, like me I just make it with my income. The $600.00 is in the MSRP and they say there is a SALE on 2011 Toyota, HAHHA I called Toyota in California and went to consumer Guide and on line also says what SMRP so if you want to sell me a car for that price TOO late. I am going to pass around the how false statement on MSRP is and suggest not buying Toyota cars.
I had headlights on my Avalon 4dr. XL sedan replaced after both high beams burned out simutaniously. I’ve been back to the dealership 4 times for readjustment and am still not satisfied. My owner’s manual shows how to adjust the lights but the replacement product shows no adjustable parts and the dealership’s mechanic must remove the lights each time to readjust. Why aren’t there adjustable headlight like it states in the manual? Why am I having so much trouble wih the lights?
My ’04 Sequoia “VSC TRAC” and “VSC OFF” lights come on along with my PBrake light occasionally. I have read many forums on this and it is a problem with many Toyota’s (Mattrix, 4Runner, Sienna, 2002-2010 models etc.). The dealership has suggested a diagnostic at $115, and will preform a “zero point calibration” for the same price after the diagnostic. I’m thinking that this is a defect and the calibration should be paid for by Toyota. Why has Toyota not figured out this flaw.
toyota has lost yet anouther customer. This over a pre paid oil change through BALISE TOYOTA of west springfield MA. Which they wouldn’t preform, all after making an appointment and driving 25 miles one way. at the price of gas, the value of my time, and the frustration of dealing with some one who really could care less weather your happy OR NOT!!!!! Balise showed a complete lack of professionalism in so many ways, that all i can say is that I MARTIN MURPHY will personally never buy from BALISE or toyota again. So i suppect there response would be ( who cares, there’s more where you came from.) So i will tell ten people, and hope it goes from their.
i had a similar problem with the promised “free” 15,000 mile check up at Scion/Toyota of Kingsport, Tn for my 2011 xb. Because the car was not “in the system”, the service was not free but could be reimbursed. If i cant believe the original service guarantee when i bought the car, how can i believe it will be reimbursed. Both the dealer i bought the car from and the kingsport dealer i tried to get service from had big SCION signs out front. i will tell another 10 people………
Hi guys,
If I had seen all the above comments before I bought my 2010 RAV4, I wouldn’t go for it.
I bought the brand new RAV4 Feb 2010 and barely have 11000 miles on it. I thought that I got a dependable vehicle, but I was wrong and I am very upset and frustrated with the RAV4
The A/C kept on leaking freon, I took it back to the dealer, the first time, dealer filled half of a lb of freon to where it supposed to be,I had to go back for the one touch window closing feature, because it kept going back down by itself. Dealer told me that the window deflector is interfering with the sensor. OK they took the deflector out, so the window is doing fine, but 3 weeks later when I took RAV 4 back for the window re-check, I asked the dealer to check the A/C again, because it’s not cool comparing to the other car, dealer checked the A/C, it’s half of a lb freon short again, so they kept the RAV 4 for 2 days(without loaner car) to check and put on the dye and sniffer, but still no sign of where was leaking the freon. The dealer told me to wait for a month or 2 to go back for oil change and re-check the freon level.
The RAV 4 had A/C service twice already and the dealer still can’t figure out where is the problem, I am located in TX and we got over 100 degree temperature everyday for the last 3 months. Toyota has downgraded it’s reputation to a Japanese version Chevy now (I had a Chevy Blazer Tahoe LT which made me go back and forward to the dealer for repair a couple of hundred times and I bought it new from the dealer.)
I am extremely SAD, UPSET and FRUSTRATED with the RAV 4 and have no confidence on Toyota anymore.
The Rav 4 is still under warranty,not yet to pay off, but I do not believe the A/C can be fixed, because the service man is kept on filling out freon and tell me to go back.
The Lemon car attorney said that I might have a strong case.
Can you assist me to rectify the situation ?
Your kind assistance is highly appreciated.
I have been buying Avalons since they first came out. I soon switched to changing every five years just to get the new body style.
The first one was good, no problems, 2nd jinxed, not toyota’s fault, I swapped it in for a 2000. I drive very little so when the five years rolled by I gave it to my daughter with about 35,000 miles on it. She drove it for three years and we began to see oil in ALL the systems it should not be in. Our mechanic said this was common with the 2000 avalon engines, and if I had brought it to Toyota’s attention they were aware of it and would have replaced the engine. Well already eight years had gone by and then the car had only 65,000 miles on the engine. We had to trade a beautiful looking car with only 65,000 miles on it for something she could afford to make payments on, she had been payment free. I blame TOYOTA big time for not notifying us of the pending engine problem, but I know better that to even try to contact them anymore.
The dealers brush you aside, don’t want to talk about it of course because it’s after the fact. So I wrote Toyota, who is not really very accessible in the first place. No response. Several letters, no response.
Now I have the 2005. From the start I went to the dealer several times and told them there is a problem with the brake pedal, it goes too far down, even flat to the boards sometimes. In fact, when it does that, if your foot is slightly out of place you can also bear down on the gas pedal without realizing it. Two or three times when I had to slap on the brakes for one thing or another the car sped up, the harder I pushed the faster it went, al of this in micro seconds, before I realized the problem and got my foot off the gas and entirely on the brake. The dealer just shook their heads and said no way to tighten up the brake, that’s the way they are.
Many letters later, directly to Toyota, no response. Then people started reporting problems with the gas pedal sticking unable to stop a car that accelerated faster and faster while their foot was on the brake. Sound familiar? More letters, no response.
They sent me down for a recall and put a new accelerator pedal on, They were going to do something with the floor mats but I had replaced them when I got the car, if you drug you feet on the originals they were too sticky at the heel. I still have to watch that I don’t hit the accelerator when I go for the brake. The brake pedal should NOT go down so far that the edge of your shoe can also push on the accelerator!
Then one day my push button key didnt work. I had the key set in my pocket but no luck, could not start the car. Called the dealers service dept. and said what do I do?
They said bring the key in probably needs a battery. I took it in and the bill was $108 bucks! For a battery, No, we had to reprogram your holders. I had two key sets.
Next time my push button key didnt work, i figured same thing. They said bring it in! How, it won’t start, is there a work around? Nope, you will have to have it towed. Thank you very much, I called another dealer, explained the problem and asked it that right? They said Naw, you just hold the existing key up near the starter button and press the button. Worked like a charm. I have NEVER been back to the first dealer and I suppose I should go to the second one about the brake problem to see if he has a different answer for that.
Now, one key set has been dropped and was run over by another car. When we picked up the pieces not all of it was fouind. A tiny plastic button cover is missing. Try to get another, HA, that will be $360 bucks. For the missing piece? No, you have to buy new ones we don”t have parts for those. Why not, how much storage to you think it would take, an earring box?
All in all I have never had much satisfaction from Toyota except I do like the handling and ride of the 2005. It was one of the first 2005’s offered and I have never regretted driving it, but I do anything but go to Toyota for help now. Other types of dealers yes, but we still have to buy Toyota’s over priced parts. This 2005 has only 33,000 miles on it. When I took it in to the second dealer for the oil change he marked the window that the next change would be 335,365 miles and forgot to reset the check the engine button, so I’m not going back there again either.
You will notice it’s 2011 and I am still driving the 2005, The body has not changed and much of the car is still the same so since this one is still functioning as it should like a new car I will stick with it for awhile yet.
Oh and I had a Toyota Supra years ago, the thing went total with perfect attention to upkeep, at about six years. Had to junk it or switch out the engine at about 75,000 miles.
So, would I recommend Toyota to you, sure, what the hell, take a chance,you could get lucky, and the american manufacturers haven’t anything better and the same service personnel. Nowdays the Toyota Dealer is also the Chevy Dealer and the Kia
Dealer and, well, you get the picture.
i bought a 2008 avalon on 6-28-08.i was out of town in june and july 0f 2011. on or about 7-10-11 i noticed my dashboard was cracking and brought the car into ed morse toyota in delray bch fl. they said it was a defect and the entire dash
had to be replaced.i explained why i was late re-warantee
expiration and they said the ca. headquarters had to ok this.
after 3 months of going back and firth with the dealersip i was
told they would not help me. noletters,etc.etc. the dealership execs. were rude to me all along. i guess they only like you when you buyacar. once youdo they could not care less. can you look into this matter?
marty sexter
My dad has a 2007 toyota camry and let me tell you I would never, ever ever buy a toyota after the service my dad has gotten. His transmission has blown and they said its because he was careless with the car. He has always done his regular check ups at toyota montreal north and they said his car was impeccable. My dad is a 70 year old man, max speed he hits with the car is 60km/hr. So for the dealer not to want to pass the warranty is kind of upsetting. Toyota canada does not want to see the photo graphic evidence that I have that caused the transmission to blow that will prove it is a manufacture defect. Toyota has been loosing credibility through out the years. I would love for someone to publish this and show consumers that toyota is not a company of there word.
In January, we had a rebuilt transmission installed by the local Toyota dealership, in our 2000 4Runner Limited Edition Toyota and were given a 1 year warrant.
This was an automatic (calif emissions)transmission.
A couple of weeks ago we started having some loss of power, so took the vehicle to our regular mechanic. Using the process of elimination, it was discovered that there was a broken bolt to the starter and a bare wire laying on the transmission. we got that fixed and didn’t mention it to the Toyota dealership. Last week we had a problem again (loud noises)brought it back to our regular mechanic who found they were coming from the flex plate, so back to the dealership who found the flex plate to be cracked. The mechanic there insists that there cannot be a problem with misalignment in the instillation of an automatic transmission. Is this true? Please help me?
Also this mechanic is angry that we didn’t go to them first. thank you
I don’t know where to start. I was shopping for a 2012 Highlander. I visited by local dealership and three others within 50 miles of my home. As promised, I returned to the local dealer with what the other dealerships had to say. This was my third visit to Apple Valley, in Martinsburg, WV. The salesman was wonderful. I was then introduced to John, not sure his title but he started with an attitude. That kinda turned me off but I really want to buy close to home. I made them aware of the deals offered by the other dealerships and that I had $9,000.00 to put down. John stated that, “He didn’t understand where the numbers were coming from and he couldn’t get the numbers to work!” Ok so this is not my first time purchasing a vehicle so I said that my husband and I talked and I have to have X for my car and we will pay X for the Highlander. I was questioned as to who my husband was. Granted I am a gay male and am married to a yes a gay male. I told John that my husband said that if you can work the deal I am to leave. He looked at me and said maybe you should leave and find another dealer. My chin hit the floor. I am standing in a Toyota Dealership in 2011 and have just experienced Sexual Discrimination. What the ****? I am usually calm and collected, however I was in shock. I promptly gather my things and while gathering I hear John tell the salesman, “Sometimes these deals come together and sometimes they don’t. Maybe next time.” I said you have wasted my time for three days and with my treatment here today you think there will be a next time? I will never be back to this dealership. The salesman was appologizing and trying to make things better, I shook his hand and told him it had nothing to do with him. I drove to the nearest dealer and was met with nothing but respect. I made the deal and gave then the check for $9,000.00 down. I then told the manager of Younger Toyota, Hagerstown, MD. what had happened and he said he was sorry for my treatment at the other dealership. He wasn’t even there and he could see how upset I was…even hours after it happened. They stayed late to finish the deal and made sure I was comfortable with the Highlander before I left at 7:30pm on a Saturday evening. WOW I am impressed! After thinking about what happened at Apple Valley I spoke to a friend at work. She said to contact Toyota. I contacted the Customer People by email and got nothing but a simple cut and paste response. I have emailed 4 seporate time and have been given facts about how gay friendly Toyota is and how each dealership is independently owned and operated. I really don’t care. I want some action taken by Toyota! I am having a hard time getting through to anyone that this should not be happening to anyone. Can anyone advise me?
Thanks for reading and listening!
Thank you so much for the helpful hints in getting an issue resolved. Have a 2008 Rav4 with 57K on it. It developed a leak in the water pump and was taken into the dealership on Tuesday. Did not drive it on Wed or Thursday. Drove it on Friday and it developed a really hard repetitive knock on the driver side and then the service lights popped on (Oil, water and VSC (sp)) and the engine was steaming. At a minimum, the svc dept never reconnected the water hoses or the water resevoir tank. Toyota won’t look at it until tomorrow but my concern is that the engine has been damaged (heads, pistons, cylinders, etc). I am sure it will run but the engine just aged an extra 100K. The warranty is due to expire soon and I would like it extended to cover the engine due to their negligence. Am I being unreasonable?
I had purchased one & year before IN NOVA in INDIA. After using 48000 km from engine the oil was lost from engine I complain to help line number. when i was purchased the vehicle they told 1 lack (100000)KM in warranty. When i ask for repair in warranty they don’t want to repair because the vehicle was not came for regular checking .In this checking they don’t change the engine oil.
I was really dis pointed not to purchased the Toyota vehicle
& not to advice to any one else.
this is my first letter & i will write in all over the world.
Tony – When the engine breaks at 200k+ miles, that’s called normal. 🙂
Richard – It’s surprising to hear that your local dealer is marking up the price of a Yaris, but it could be that they were really low on inventory at the time. For what it’s worth, I agree 100% that they shouldn’t be increasing prices…
Avis – Unless the dealership used after-market replacements, the new lights should function identically to the old ones. Did they go OEM, or did they offer to save you money by going after-market?
Ahouse – I feel your pain, but it’s a fact of life: no technician or mechanic is going to diagnose your car for free. It’s just not done.
Vic – It’s not common for a new vehicle to have a hard-to-find defect, but it’s not rare either. Provided they can find the source of the refrigerant leak, the car has been fine otherwise, correct? I only ask because there’s a difference between long-term dependability and a one-in-a-million defect that’s very hard to find.
w fuller – It’s hard to know what happened…one mechanic will blame another most of the time, even if there’s no proof to that effect. The best thing to do is to work with someone you trust and then stick with them.
J Hauser – While I wasn’t there, I want to say that it *could* be that the first dealer simply couldn’t make the numbers work. However, if you felt like your orientation was a problem for the manager at the first dealership, my advice is to make them pay. Start by describing your experience to local TV news editors, and then be sure to leave a review on Yelp, DealerRater.com, Google Local, etc. and relay your experience. Finally, I would write a letter to the dealership and CC the leaders of the local gay rights community.
M Robertson – It seems perfectly reasonable to me to request a free extension of your power train warranty as a consequence of their mistake. It’s a relatively low cost thing the dealership can do to keep you happy.
We bought a 2008 Tundra Crew Max brand new, its 3 years old, has 62,000 miles. It wont start, its been at the dealership for 3 weeks they havent even looked at it yet. they said it will cost $23,000 to put a new engine in a $28,000 truck. I asked about a trade in at Bob Dennison Toyota, who we purchased the truck from, they said “we won’t give yuou anything for it, it’s not worth crap to us.” and we still owe $14,000 on it. So were paying $650 for a truck we can not drive. We have talked 4 people at the dealership and 4 different people at california customer service center. Customer service said they would send down a specialist from chicago and said that they aould call us when they arrived. The specialist came did not even look at the engine because the dealership did not take it apart yet, and they did not call when he arrived. Toyota said it would be free of charge. It never got done, then they said they never said that. I gave her the the customer service guy’s name (Tony) who told us that and she refused to talk to him. Customer service told us to call Steve Gardner, he will not answer or return our phone calls. They will not give us any information of who we can call that is higher up in the company, even though it is public record. So TOYOTA HAS THE WORST CUSTOMER SERVICE I HAVE EVER EXPERIENCED IN MY LIFE. I DID LOVE MY TUNDRA AND WAS PLANNING ON BUYING AN AVALON NEXT YEAR. After this nightmare i will never buy a toyota again unless the company does something to resolve the problem, which at this point is not likely. I have never spoken to so many unhelpfull people in my life
I posted the story about my 2008 Toyota Tundra that stopped working at 62,000 miles and no one wants to help. the dealership will not even give me a trade in. They said “why would we give you a trade in, it’s not worth crap to us.” I still owe $14,000 on a truck I can’t drive Toyota has not been helpful at all. Horrible customer service, I would take Bob Dennison’s franchise away the way they treat their customers. You would think Toyota would want to look at this engine for research and development because of the fact that it is motor trend truck of the year for the last six years. The dealership won’t even look at my truck unless I give them $1,200 even though customer service said they were going to take it apart, scope it, and have a specialist from Chicago look at it. WHERE IS MY STORY I WROTE ON HERE THE FIRST TIME???? WHERE IS MY ANSWER?? Why isn’t anyone (the general manager) authorizing the expensive of the repair or offering us a after warranty authorization?? I was going to buy an Avalon next year, but apparently Bob Dennison or Toyota does not want to take care of their customers. I was sold a defected product and this problem needs to be resolved.
Fantastic website! This is a great forum for us car owners to read, especially us Toyota/Scion loyalists. That being said…
I’ve got a 2006 Scion XB with 156k miles on it. To date, the only thing that’s been annoying is the windshield issues (I’ve replaced 3 in the 4 years I’ve owned it (bought it used in early ’08 with 60k miles on it). Otherwise, regular oil changes and self-performed tuneups (plugs and ignition coil packs) have kept my box running well.
I live in Washington state, where the emissions laws are somewhat restrictive. About 3 years ago, I took the car in for a 90k service to Broadway Toyota in Portland, Oregon. $450 lighter, when I drove away, everything was fine… but 2-3 days later, the VSC, Trac and Check Engine lights came on. Returned to the dealer service department, where I was promptly told that those dash lights were inconsequential. Being the rube I am, I drove away thinking “Okey Dokey, no big deal”.
Turns out, my catalytic converter and oxygen sensors needed to be replaced at that time, and even though those items and the labor to replace them wouldn’t have fallen under any warranty (in Washington, converters are covered for 8yrs/80k miles), the dealer service department sent me down the road after telling me everything was hunky-dory. Not so, apparently.
Is there any recourse for this, or am I stuck holding the bag for nearly a grand worth of repairs on a car worth barely four times that amount?
with your close out prices and your discounted prices people still cannot afford to up grade or buy, your so called sales prices really suck, I get better deals at a ford dealer, but I have been a loyal customer for yoears and my familyt members have been buying toyotas also, why advertise prices people cannoy afford, after all your profits on sales of cars is so high and you keep getting richer at our expense, so how bout helping out us little people and not be so greedy, I do not want to have to goi to a ford dealer, i have checked them out already and they have one we can afford and it beats toyota prices
Chad and Holly – I appreciate your frustration but I think a big part of the problem is your attitude. In your first comment, you say the repair will cost $23k. Yet later you say that no one has actually diagnosed the repair yet…which is it? A $23k fix or an expensive diagnosis fee?
I won’t dispute that your local dealer has let you down – they clearly have – but you aren’t making sense. Take a deep breath, put yourself on the other side of this issue so you can see the dealer’s perspective, and I promise it will get better.
Bob – Unfortunately, there’s no recourse for bad diagnosis. Unless you can prove the Toyota dealer intentionally overlooked your problem (and I’m not sure how you would do that), I can’t see how you could demonstrate any damages.
Still, you might check for a catalytic converter price online, and installing an O2 sensor is usually fairly easy for a handy guy like yourself. Good luck! 🙂
It has been determined a manufactures defect by Toyota, they are admitting 100% fault. A valve or valve spring came loose and fell in the motor. Now my truck needs a new small block and a right head.However, they are only willing to cover 50% under “good will assistance” because it is 2,000 miles over the warranty (62,000). I do not understand how they can say it is a manufactures defect and then still expect me to pay for half. That means it was defected when I bought it. This is Toyota’s mistake and they should be more than willing to fix their problem. The dealer has been helpful now that I talked to Bob Dennison (owner/GM) himself. His service people just kept telling me it was going to be $23,000 for a new engine before they even took the oil pan off.
holly and chad – I agree – if the part failed 2k miles out of warranty, it should be close enough…the only exception would be if you’ve far exceeded the age limit of the warranty. SO, for example, if your 5 year old car with 62k has a power train problem, you should be able to get a full warranty repair (Toyota does this all the time). On the other hand, if your car is 8 years old, it really doesn’t matter what the mileage is. Once you’re out of warranty more than a few months or few thousand miles, the 50% offer is usually the best you’ll get.
BTW, very glad to hear that it’s not a $23k repair. The service people who laid that bit of info out there should be shot…they cost $23k, but only if you order one new from the factory in it’s entirety. That’s pretty unusual.
I have a 2005 Toyota Sienna XLE. Last year I noticed that the paint on the wheels (All four) was starting to bubble. It has gotten considerably worse since then to the point where about 30% of the paint has flaked off. I had recently taken it in to the dealer for a recall on the rear hatch gas pistons and mentioned to the service rep the problem with the wheels. I said it was because I used wheel cleaner and it corroded the wheels. He didn’t ask if I used wheel cleaner he just told me I did!
When I informed him that I never used anything more than soap and water and the fact that I washed my 2003 BMW – which has no problem with that paint peeleing on the wheels – the exact same way as my Sienna he said “there is nothing we can do since I ruined them”. I politely said that I was thinking of trading in my Sienna for a Highlander but would no longer consider Toyota he didn’t say a word.
I searched the internet and was very suprised to find this is a very common problen on Sienna’s and Tundra’s. My uncle just bought a Highlander and had to bring it back to the dealer just 2 months after getting it from the dealer.
I’ve read that Toyota will either repair or replace the wheels but there doesn’t seems to be a consistant policy. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Mike – I’d be sort of shocked if Toyota replaced the wheels on a 2005 anything at this point, but I suppose you could ask. Generally speaking, Toyota’s warranty and goodwill replacement efforts end after 5 years (and Toyota is not alone in that regard). Still, if you can find some documentation of someone else getting new wheels, you could ask about it.
As for a plan ‘b’, after-market rims are inexpensive and generally add value on trade or resale. eBay is another good option – you might be able to find a set of used rims for a good price. Good luck.
It has a 5 year 60,000 mile power train warranty. It has only been 3 years, but i have 62,000 miles. i read the article on AWA. I meet all requirmenets, i told the dealer this. Toyota is claiming After warranty assistanace does not exist. They are only willing to cover %50 under “goodwill assistance” even though it was defected when i bought it.
Chad and Holly – That sucks. Your dealer can call the regional service manager and get the entire repair covered, provide of course that you have maintained the car correctly. Have you tried sending the dealership GM a certified letter, and then CC’ing your local news stations, chamber of commerce, better business bureau, etc.? If you’re only 2k miles out of powertrain, this shouldn’t be a conversation…in fact, I know of at least two local Denver dealers who would both get this fixed 100% under warranty.
Any chance there are hard feelings on the dealer’s side? If they really don’t like you guys, they might not go to bat for you…hopefully they’re professionals about this, but you never know. If that’s the case, it might be time to extend the olive branch and mend their ego(s).
Thanks Jason. I was kind of venting as well that the service guy thought he knew I used wheel cleaner, as if he was looking over my shoulder every time I cleaned them. He was just plain arrogant.
Mike – I don’t blame you. My first thought was ‘wheel cleaner’ too, but then I recalled seeing a lot of Siennas with wheel paint problems. They can’t all be using harsh wheel cleaners.
I have a 2001 sequioa with 82000 miles on it the body is beautiful but the frame and every part underneath is so rusted and scaling that bolts are breaking off when I hit bumps, it has become a serious saftey issue. I was wondering what my options and order of actions should be. Thank you for your time
The dealer is actully trying to help it is “totota executives” that say they will only pay 50% and that is their final offer.I talked to the regional customer service supervisor Reginald Haywood and he said that is the final offer because it is 2,000 miles over the warranty. He refused to give his boss’ name, phone number, or transfer me to someone else. Bob Dennison said he called the regional office and they told him they were only covering 50%. He said that i shouldn’t have to pay for it and he is still calling people i guess. I am waiting to hear back from the dealer at this point. I haven’t had my truck for over a month.
keith – By all rights, Toyota should include your Sequoia in the same recall on 2000-2004 Tundras that covers rusting frames. My recommendation is to go visit your local dealer, get the rust documented, and then depending on what they say you might need to file a complaint with NHTSA to get them to prod Toyota into covering your SUV.
Chad and Holly – Well I’m glad to hear that the dealer is chasing down the full coverage for you – it’s shocking that Toyota won’t cover the full repair this close to the warranty end date.
My best advice is to make everyone at the dealership your friend – that’s the only way they’ll go the extra mile for you. Kill em’ with kindness and good luck. 🙂
Some advice please. I was recently stranded 6 miles from Flagstaff, AZ, when the hybrid system on my 2008 Prius failed and shut down. We got the car to Findlay Toyota, and there proceeded a series of events that still have me puzzled and frustrated. We were told that the car would be looked at the next morning. After pestering the service manager, and actually ending up at the dealership by 11 am ( courtesy shuttle, thanks), we still waited for another hour to find out their recommendation was:
1) 980 bucks to tear the transmission apart, and IF that was the problem, we would be looking at about a 5,000 replacement. They claimed the had “never seen” a problem like this before, and had called “toyota” to see if they could help.
( We have since talked to several dealerships who would NOT have started with the transmission, might have tried charging the power plant battery first, might have started with the inverter or the braking system, or even the main computer)
2) Based on this “information” from the dealership, we ended up talking to 1 sales rep ( new) who couldn’t help, then talked to another. The discussion led to “options”, which for this salesman, was to sell us a new 2011 Corolla and take the Prius in trade.
3) There were no options presented, such as “you can leave the car here on the lot….. would you like to take it to a different dealership….” or rationally any other of the possibilities ( like renting a car and deciding later)…
4) We were standed 600 miles from home, and 200 miles from the nearest relative, with out access to funds to repair the car, with a 13 year old in tow. The stress levels were just amazing, and did cloud the decision process heavily, since they also had us there until 5pm that afternoon.
5) We are highly suspicious of the dealerships motives and behavior during the entire process, as I would have thought it quite apparent that we as customers were not entirely in possession of rational decision making processes. We also do not believe the service department acted in good faith, nor pursued all avenues of diagnosing the cars’ issue. We did understand the power train warranty was expired, since the car had 85000 miles on it. We have since heard there are “regional mechanics” which are sent out if a local dealership’s mechanics can’t “figure it out”. This option was not presented, if true.
5) To sum up the “drama”, we ended up signing for a 2011 Corolla, because it was the deal on the lot we could afford, and they tacked on 5200 of the balance due on the Prius on the corolla loan…. since the car was not working. General book value to a dealership would have been 10,500.
6) The current corolla has a “hesitation” behavior on flat roads, between 40-45 mph, which we have sent to a local dealership to try to find out what is wrong with that…and of course, they did not “feel” the problem on a first try.
We have called the dealership ( Findlay Toyota) , after receiving one of the “thanks for doing business” letters, and have been turfed from the owner/ manager of the company to a “customer service” person at their offices. They claim that they still don’t know what happened with the Prius…and gave us a name of a local dealer rep so that they could show us how to work the Corolla. Unfortunately we reside in Colorado, and got the Corolla in Arizona.
We are unhappy with the dealership, feel as if they didn’t know what to do with the Prius, failed to diagnose the problem accurately, or chose the wrong issue to begin with (incompetence), saw 2 women stranded, and presented an offer to benefit their company, not their “customers”. We are also jubrious about the new Corolla, since it has had this odd “hesitation” issue since we drove the car 132 miles to Phoenix. We don’t appreciate the fact that we are now paying, in part, for a vehicle that has had problems and failures with the hybrid system….and that based on the “possibility” it was a 5,000 repair, with 980 up front to diagnose…. and that estimated repair was “our problem”.
How many times is proper to complain to the dealship, before contacting the local BBB, and then Toyota Regional and National?
Denise – My best recommendation is to make sure that you legally document everything that’s happened. Certified letters sent to the dealership, describing everything that happened, are a good start. If you ever decided to sue the dealership – and you might investigate that option – these certified letters would serve as a legal record.
I am writing you to vent my frustrations of the service I received at Melody Toyota. My 2005 Toyota Sequoia broke down on Halloween night as my family and I were returning home from the Bay Area . I was in Richmond, Calif., and had the choice of either having the vehicle towed to my house in Auburn, CA (125 miles) or back to San Bruno where my parents live. I have used Melody Toyota’s service department in the past and have been very satisfied with past service.
On Nov 1, I received a call from Melody’s service department reporting that my cars number 6 spark plug had backed itself out and burnt the ignition wires; and that this incident is not covered under my warranty.
I called the warranty department as instructed by Melody’s service department and questioned the claim and its denial. The warranty department informed me that the only way this would be approved would be by assuring its not a faulty spark plug and to request that Melody be sure to check other spark plugs for defects. To my surprise Melody never did check this prior to informing me that the threads on my head were melted. Melody’s service department called me and informed me of the news along with reporting that the claim was still denied. The Melody service person instructed me again to contact the warranty department and discuss the issue with them myself, as the service department at Melody has a working relationship with them and he did not want to get in the middle of this. At this point I am very dissatisfied with Melody’s customer service or lack there of, since Melody is providing the service, they should be the ones who address the repair issue with the warranty department, that is their expertise, is it not?
I felt like I battled to get this approved! Melody’s service person contacted me the day before instructing that I come to pick up a rental by 1 p.m.the next day; I informed them that I live in Auburn 2 1/2 hours away. He reiterated that I be sure to be there by 1pm. After taking the train and Bart I got to Enterprise at 12:15 only to find closed. I then walked to Melody informed him of his mistake, for which I never received an apology nor for having to walk to Melody.Customer service is truly lacking!
After the work started I received a call from Melody informing me that if I want some service done to the vehicle while it was in the shop that I can get it taken care of with some of the labor hours being picked up by the warranty work. I thought this was wonderful!
However the quote I received was: $525 for a new timing belt ( which I was willing to do because I know there was a couple of hours extra work more not covered by warranty but the kicker was $475 for a new water pump! At this point I feel not only am I not receiving good customer service but now I’m getting ripped off on top of it all! Since the timing belt and the head would already be off and out of the vehicle the installation of the water pump might take an extra 30 Min’s at the most; would this justify payment of an additional $475!!!!!
I was told the work on the car would be completed on Thursday, the time of day depending on the extra work I wanted done to it. Being put off by everything I have shared I just wanted my car back and I was going to take it to another shop to get this work done. The rental car had to be back by Thursday at 1pm. So I left my house in Auburn only to get a call when I already arrived in San Bruno at 12:30 telling me my car would not be done until Friday. Now my rental had to be back and I had my family in Auburn with three small children and no car for transportation. It would have been greatly appreciated if he had his facts correct I would of come down on Friday and paid for the extra rental day.
I went to Melody very upset only to see the tech with my service person working on my car informing me that my car’s head had just gone to the shop where it will be for a couple of days, they are closed on weekends and when the car is returned, it will take another couple of days longer after that. I can understand that it is probably a bad judgement call should the car be delayed one day, but again, horrible customer service and ridiculous to have a weeks delay! Again it was never followed up with him taking responsibility or an apology.
I have never written or complained about any service ever because we are all human; never the less, this has been a nightmare. I have lost now many hours commuting back and forth (the 2 1/2 hours each way), not to mention travel expenses, gas and numerous minutes on the phone. I demand my hourly wage per hour for time spent on dealing with Melody Toyota’s ineptness.
Is this crazy and should he dealer take responsibility?
David – I completely understand your frustration, and it sure sounds like Melody’s staff could have done a better job in terms of scheduling, not to mention appreciating the fact that you chose to have them service the SUV rather than tow it home.
However, in regards to the warranty, I have to tell you that after-market warranty companies are just plain AWFUL. Their entire business model is dependent upon denying claims, and their key staff is often given a bonus if they can come up with a logical explanation as to why a claim should be denied.
In fact, after-market warranty companies are so notoriously bad that many state legislatures and attorney generals have looked at making after-market warranties illegal.
My advice to you is to complain about your experience to Melody’s general manager. If he/she is willing to apologize and do something for you as a gesture of goodwill, I’m guessing you’ll feel a lot better about things (I know I do when these things happen).
If the people at Melody aren’t willing to take your advice, however, my advice is to hit them where it hurts – leave a review of your experience on Google Local, Yelp, DealerRater, MerchantCircle, CitySearch, and any other internet review sites. You may not get anything for your trouble, but you’ll hurt their ability to gain new customers in the future.
Good luck.
Well I have lost faith in toyota at this point. my truck is 3 years old and its going to cost me $7,000 to get the engine fixed. motor trend truck of the year, yeah right. Toyota is admitting it was a manufactures defect but are only willing to pay half because it has 62,000 miles instead of 59,999 miles. I feel Toyota should be held liable for their defect.The Owner/GM said he has talked to everyone he can, and I have spend up to 3 hours a day for weeks on the phone myself. My truck has been at the dealership for almost 2 months now. Looks like im stuck with a huge bill, and will have to hiring a lawyer as well.
Hello,
I bought my Camry in March 2011 and since then I was getting really poor Gas Mileage. I’m supposed to be getting 25 to 33mpg I get 17 to 20 mpg. I have taken my car multiple times to the dealer and each time I get an answer that is some how blaming me. First time I took it they told me your gas mileage will get better when you reach 2500 miles. I reached 4000 mi and still the gas mileage is extremely poor. They told me next it is probably the way that I’m driving or the weather conditions, I told them that I have been driving for 11 years and never had a problem like this in any of my previous cars. Anyways, I ended up calling the Toyota Customer Service Line to see if they can help me as nobody in my dealership helped and came up with lame excuses. I ended up hearing the same thing by them but they called me a few days later and sent me to the dealership once again. They did a mpg test which seems fake. They told me they drove the car for 30 miles and it took .8 gallons. and I’m getting an average of 29.1 per gallon. I took the car back and noticed the fast decrease in my gas tank and my Trip which was reset on a full tank ended up giving 250 miles per tank. Can someone please help me because this problem is getting to my head and I know I’m calculating the gas mileage correctly.
Thanks
John – First, I’d suggest taking your Camry to a different dealership and then explaining to them what’s been done. Sometimes, a fresh set of eyes (i.e. a new technician) can make the difference.
Next, if that doesn’t work, I’d suggest disconnecting the battery on your car for 1 hour. That should be enough time for the engine computer to reset and “unlearn” all the adjustments.
Finally, make sure you don’t have another driver in the household (typically a teenager, but not always) who is taking your car out and running it ragged. In my dealership days, this was by far the most common cause of bad mileage. Someone’s child or spouse was driving really, really hard and ruining the gas mileage…and then lying about it when asked. 🙂
HI, I have a 2009 Toyota Highlander with 42000 miles on friday my wife noticed white smoke from exhaust. On sat morning started car and again white smoke from exhaust didnt think much of it cause it was cold out. We drove about 20 miles no smoke, went in store came out started car and again white smoke. We then drove about 15 miles and came to stop light and waited probably about a minute when light changed and we took off there was a big cloud of white smoke. The car feels the same as it always has no loss of power or any wierd noises, there is no sign of smoke when you are driving along or when you stop at a stop sign. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thank You. Charles Young.
Charles – It’s very likely a leaking head gasket. Take it to the dealership immediately – it’s covered.
Just an update: Based on your reply, I sent a certified letter to Findlay Toyota in Flagstaff regarding my complaints of Robby Findlays’ service manager, sales people and finance people. He did not address any specifics, and offered me 1 more year of free oil changes to help out. I couldn’t believe the LACK of response to complaints about his staff, nothing about anything that occurred or didn’t occur at his dealership, nor did he address my comment about holding off talking to Toyota until after he responded WOW
Jason Thank you for your response will be contacting toyota in am. Once again Thank you, Charles Young.
Greetings,
I purchased a 2008 Toyota Corolla CE with 38,153 miles, Certified on September 3rd, 2011. I turned in my 2007 Toyota Camry CE 4 year lease. (God I miss my perfect Camry) First problem began the first time I drove the car at night. The windshield was scraped/scratched quite a bit and gave me very limited vision at night. I brought the car back to the dealership to inform them of this dilemma. They were very cold about it and somewhat rude. Once salesman actually told me “go thru your insurance company to have it replaced.” That’s FRAUD I told him. The customer service manager agreed and apologized to me. The windshield was replaced, but they would not give me a receipt, or nay paper work explaining what they did? I just wanted it for my records.
That was the beginning of some “inner bad feeling about the Corolla.” Friday December 16th, 2011 my car over heated on I95 without any warning, or any indicator light something was wrong. I looked at the temperature cage and it was at “H”. (you can barely see it at dusk) I had to pull over since it started to buck and stall on me. Call for towing and was brought to a different dealership near by. They put me in a loaner since I had the certified used vehicle coverage. Saturday morning the 17th Dec they call to tell me my coolant fan motor seized which caused the domino affect of things. Now the part that put me into a panic attack/anxiety. They claim my car is not a certified car! They searched the system over and over. I have my 2 stickers that were on the window of my car which say Certified Used Toyota. I also have my paper work from the finance employee signed and dated CERTIFIED. Also, they brought to my attention the vehicle was involved in a frontal drivers side accident which I never saw on the car fax via Internet. I have been in touch with the original dealership explaining this all to them and they could give a darn. They were cold rude and just wanted no part of this problem. Mind you it’s the weekend so management is scarce.
So my car sits in limbo till Monday the 19th Dec. I’m not pleased with any of this and being disabled doesn’t help matters. I have been quite calm and respectful since that’s my personality from the get go. Again, I have bad feelings about this vehicle. I have only put 2,000 miles on it since Sept 3rd, 2011.
Any advice? I’d like to thank you in advance.
Tony Fields. (As you may have noticed I didn’t mention either dealership to protect their reputation)
Denise – Sorry to hear that. Certified letters are legal documentation, but unfortunately that’s not always enough to get a dealership to admit an error. If I had to guess, I’d say that they probably don’t care about making an out-of-state customer mad…it’s not like they’re ever going to see you again.
I’m not saying that’s *right*, mind you, just saying what I think is going on.
If it were me, I’d hold out for more than a year of free oil changes. The fact that they offered anything at all means they probably feel somewhat responsible.
Tony – That’s amazing. At best, the dealer simple failed to file the certified paperwork with Toyota. At worst, they also sold a vehicle that wouldn’t pass certified standards (windshield replacement is standard practice, and many dealers won’t certify a car with a previous accident).
My advice is to contact your state’s dealer licensing/regulatory board. The dealer has, at the very least, been negligent, and at worst fraudulent. The state authorities need to hear about this. Good luck.
Hi! I’m hoping that someone can help me. I’ve been searching the internet trying to find where I can write to Toyota to get reimbursed.
I found out through my own research as well as through the mechanic, after having to get it towed to the shop that 2001-2003 Toyota Rav4’s had extended the warranty on their ECM’s and even sometimes the transmission. My mechanic knew about this and went to the Toyota dealership where they approved the warranty for my car.
The good thing is that they had the ECM (Electronic Control Module) in stock and replaced that part for free. The bad news is that the transmission was backordered and would probably take about 6-8 Weeks to get one installed.
My mechanic said that he had rebuilt other transmissions with this issue and 9 out of 10 people had been reimbursed when they wrote a letter to Toyota. He said he thought it was Toyota of America and told me what I needed to say and send to them. However, I can’t find an address online. Anyone have an address or any advice on how to get reimbursed. I live in Los Angeles and with mass transit being so limited, I couldn’t get to work without a car, I couldn’t wait that long for them to get the part.
Thanks in advance!
In addition, now I found out this is the 2nd engine put into this vehicle. This information was revealed when a local Toyota dealer helped me out. They found my car was brought to them in this was on 9/16/2008, A diagnosis was performed found that connecting rod broken, hole is in the block-needs engine assembly (Customer Declined)
Who knows where this car/engine was replaced? Now my car makes this clanking sound that seems to be getting louder. They gave it back to me that way.
Just sick over all of this. The dealership is horrible to say the least. Toyota Of Deerfield Beach, FL. Again, the above was NEVER revealed during the sale. A motor installed and no one knows where???
Tont Fields..
Thanks for the response, I will try the things you suggested. I’m the only driver driving my car so that takes care of that problem. I will try to take it to a different dealership and see if they can see something different. I’ll probably disconnect my battery first hoping the engine light would come on.
I have a feeling that my car has a transmission problem and if the computer doesn’t say so they tell me the car is perfect. It’s so sad to see technicians depending only on computers to tell them what’s wrong.
The problem that I really notice now other than the gas mileage is that when I’m driving in the city and I take my foot off the gas pedal my car completely decelerates almost coming to a full stop, I don’t think that’s normal but please reassure me. If I don’t succeed in the two suggestions you provided me, do you think I should go with the Lemon Law? because this problem has been bothering me a lot lately and it is causing both stress and money. Let me know, your help is highly appreciated and this blog is awesome.
Sophie – Toyota USA customer service contact info: http://www.toyota.com/help/contactus.html
Tony – I think you just might have grounds for a lawsuit. Failing to replace a windshield is one thing, but selling a car as “certified” despite the fact that the engine was replaced? Can’t imagine a jury in the world that would side with the dealer on that one. I’d get all your documentation together, make copies, and then take it to the selling dealer with a letter requesting a full refund. They need to give you your money back and undo this mistake.
John – Lemon law is reserved for a documented problem that can’t be fixed despite multiple attempts (with each state having a different rule on “multiple”). It’s also reserved for people who bought the car new.
If you bought the car new, if it’s still under warranty, and if they’ve acknowledged that there is a problem, than you have grounds for a lemon law claim. However, my guess is that this can be fixed…as for slowing down without any accelerator pressure, that will happen in any car. However, if it happens quickly, there could be something there. Still, this is something that your dealership technician will have to drive to diagnose.
We purchased a brand new Toyota Tundra and took possession of it yesterday. My husband drove it home (about 60+miles) and today started it and it was stuck in 4-Lo drive and won’t go above 20 miles per hour. We’ve had the car for ONE day and my husband is livid. Since it wouldn’t drive, he got it to the local dealership (not the one we purchased from) and they are looking at it. They said there is water intrusion in the air pump and they are not sure what is going on. Now my husband doesn’t want this car. Is the best recommendation to work with the dealership that we purchased it at to try and work something out or are we stuck trying to repair and work toward the lemon law if it doesn’t (we’re in MA).
Susan – That is unfortunate. It’s a documented problem, however, and Toyota will fix it good as new. Unless you live in a state that has a vehicle return policy (or bought your car from a dealer with a return policy), it’s a moot point. When you take delivery and the car “cracks the curb,” you own it come hell or high water as they say.
Like I said, it’s documented problem with a simple fix. Nothing to worry about. 🙂 See this post for more details: https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/04/26/tundra-sequoia-air-injection-induction-pump/
Hi, looking for some advice on my 2007 4runner and came across this site. I’ll try and keep this short.
So I bought a certified 2007 4runner with 74,000 miles on Dec. 19th, 2011 at a toyota dealership a few hours away from my home. I drove the 4runner off the lot after I purchased it and tried to put it into 4wd. The 4wd would not engage so I immediately drove it back to the dealership. (I’m kicking myself now that I forgot to check this BEFORE i purchased the vehicle…if i had known this, i wouldnt have bought the vehicle). The dealership told me that the 4wd actuator was bad and that they would replace it for me free of charge. I asked the service technician “Wasn’t this something you all checked during your toyota certification process?….If so, I find it hard to believe that the actuator went out in a matter of a week while sitting on your lot?. He told me that “I have to believe that they checked this during the certification inspection.” So that was that and they fixed the 4wd actuator. 4wd now works fine.
So I drive the 4runner home, and on Jan. 3rd, 2012 (only a few weeks after purchasing), my 4runner was idling in a parking lot when i started to hear a clicking noise coming from the front end. I opened the hood to find the serpentine belt completely shredded and black oil sprayed/dripping off the entire front of my engine and fan. Luckily, i was a few miles away from a toyota dealership near my home and they said that the serpentine belt failed and wrapped around the front pulley oil seal and damaged it, and thats where all the oil was being dumped out. The dealership also told me that this is not covered under the toyota certified warranty because a serpentine belt is considered a maintenance component. So I call the dealership where I bought the vehicle, and they immediately offer to pay for the repairs ($300).
So I had a long conversation with the service manager at the toyota dealership that sold me the vehicle. I told him that I was sorely disappointed in the 4runner so far, and that I have completely lost confidence in this particular vehicle and in their certification process. I believe that these things (4wd actuator, serpentine belt) should have easily been checked during the certification, but were more than likely not. I am now wondering what the next big problem with this 4runner will be.
I’m wondering what kind of leverage I have as a disappointed customer in this situation? This really looks bad for Toyota, their certification process, and the dealership that sold me the car. Now that I’ve lost confidence in this vehicle, I would really just like to get it off my hands. Do you think that I’m in the right to ask a full refund for this vehicle from the dealership? Should I contact the Toyota regional manager?
Just looking for some advice.
Thanks!
Bryce – To me, it sounds like the tech at your dealership took a shortcut when doing his/her certification inspection. This is very, very common, unfortunately.
As far as asking for a refund, let me ask you that question a different way. You bought a used car with nearly 75k miles of wear and tear, drove it for a few weeks, and now you’d like to return it because it had a couple of issues…both of which the dealer took care of. Is that what you’re saying?
For the record, I sympathize – I think dealers should take certification procedures a lot more seriously – but asking for a full refund? Not a chance my friend. You own it, and hopefully the dealer will continue to stand behind any certification mistakes they’ve made.
Regardless of the certification, regardless of the promises, used cars are used and will occasionally lose serp belts, 4wd actuators, etc. It’s entirely possible that the dealership did their job and both of these things failed on their own (unlikely, but possible).
after a year of chasing my car dealer to have my frame replaced by toyota,I brought my tacoma to handy’s in northern vermont.They told me 4 to5 weeks to have it repaired, after 5 weeks i called only to be told we’ll call you. I called the dealer once a month for the next 4 months. The dealer finally finished the frame replacement 16 1/2 weeks later, when the truck was returned it had a dead battery. I was able to get the truck started and brought it home and put it on a trickel charger,but it would not take a charge, so I had a mechanic check the battery. Which was done for. Back at the dealer I bought a new battery was placed in vehicle,three days go by and my check engine light comes on,off to the mechanic to find the light code is the catalyc converter is the cause, back to the dealer who said we the people who lied to you about your vehicle for the last 4 1/2 months had nothing to do with that. After research i find that it takes several days and some drive miles for the computer modems on the catalyc converter to reset. I contend that with these facts the dealer should be held libel. What do you think?
I have a 2006 Tundra. I took it to a dealer for service. One part I wanted replaced was the thermostat. The dealership incorrectly intalled the thermostat, they did not use enough sealant or didn’t let it set up long enough. The end result was the thermostat leaked anti freeze. I had no idea it was leaking until it was discovered at an oil change. I took it to another Toyota dealer since my experience with the first dealer was horrible. The repair of the thermostat cost me $114. I took my complaint to the GM of original dealership explaining that the improper installation cost me $114 and I asked for my money for the repair to be refunded. I received a phone call from the Service Manager, who stated that if I had noticed the leak sooner it would have been covered under the 1 year warranty, but since I didn’t notice it, he would not refund my money but would give me credit in their service dept. The problem with that solution is two fold, I live 38 miles away from that dealership and I do not trust them to work on my truck again after their repeated mistakes on the original service. There were multiple issues with their service which I tried to work with them to correct. Then the thermostat started leaking and I was not willing to deal with them again. Do I have any other recourse to get my $114 refunded?
Hi,
I am planning to purchase a used engine for my 08 tundra. The engine I am planning to purchase is located in USA. Is there anyway that I can verify if the engine comes from the VIN number that he gave me. VIN# 5TFEV54178X062814 and the engine serial# 3UR-5265578. Are you able to help me or do you know who I can contact (preferably not a 1-800 number) to find out if the egine comes from that VIN. I need a new engine for my Tundra because the coolant is going to the engine. So any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Khay
40 Royal Oak Cape NW
Calgary, AB, Canada
lance – A dead battery is very common on vehicles that aren’t driven for 3-4 months, and you could argue that the dealer should have pulled and charged the battery while they did the work.
As for the catalytic converter, it’s hard to see how they would have damaged it…if the check engine code indicates a damaged or clogged catalytic, that’s very likely a coincidence.
Now if the code is for a bad oxygen sensor, that’s another matter. Oxygen sensors can fail if they’re not installed correctly.
Erin – I understand why you didn’t want to work with the dealer that made the mistake, but that’s really the only way to get your money back. If you tell them that you don’t trust them and never want to work with them again, they’ve got no reason to give you anything – you’re already a lost customer.
I’m not justifying that, of course, just explaining how a dealer will look at your problem.
Khay – No idea. You might try pulling a Carfax or Autocheck on the VIN you have to verify that the vehicle was totaled…
I will make this as short as I can. Last week I was at the mall with my two young girls. We have a 2006 Sienna. The drivers side sliding door would not shut. Not with remote or manually. AAA came out and they couldn’t get it to budge either. So we had it towed to our local Toyota. We never received notice of them receiving our vehicle. The next day we still did not hear anything so I called and spoke to one of the guys who gave us our quote. He said the motor was shot and it would be $1600+ to fix it or $200 to make it a manual door. I told him I had to speak to my husband. Finally my husband got a hold of them and he was given the same news only when he asked for the motor (second opinion) he was told we couldn’t have it back because they destroyed it when they went to shut the door. They never called to discuss this with us to let us know that would be a possibility. It was the weekend so we had to wait until Monday. Basically, the parts manager called and said we could come get the car and that the door was a manual door at no charger. When we went to get our van we spoke to the parts manager who told us that our motor was not damaged and it was just a miscommunication on the part of the technician. He told us the cable was frayed. If this is so why didn’t the technician just say that. Something is not adding up. He said they wouldn’t charge the $200 and wanted to part as friends. This was 5:50 they close at 6. When we got into the car we couldn’t even open the door. Finally, we opened it only to find the cable was sticking out and they had just left it there. Had I not seen it I would have put my daughter there who could have reached it and wrap it around her neck. If this is what we would have got for spending $200 I would be furious. I am furious! They made it sound like they did us a favor. What can we do? This dealership does NOT care about the customer.
I purchased a used 2010 toyota corolla last june. It had a little over 40,000 miles on when I purchased it. The car has given me no major issues. But i’ve noticed that the car starts to shake and feels like it might shut off at every light I stop at. This problem started as recent as novemeber of last year. I took the car to my local dealership and had a diagnostic test done. They couldn’t find any issues, but i’m still feeling the same shaking. Is this an issue I should bring to there attention again? Or call the complaints dept. about this problem?
Thanks,
Deb
The check engine light recently came on my 2006 Corolla after 91000 good service miles. I have been taking it to the local AAA for service ever since the MF warranty expired for oil changes, scheduled maintenance, etc. After being informed the P0171 code indicated the Exhaust Manifold A/F Ration sensor needed changing at a cost of 380.00, I was a bit shocked, but hey, what can you do? However, I was not prepared to be told the sensor was seized and could not be removed. I called the Toyota Dealership in Apex,NC and was informed that this is a known problem with the corolla models. Turns out after a new sensor and exhaust manifold – bill jumped to a whopping 900.00. Any thoughts about approaching my original Dealer in Raleigh, NC about possibly assisting? I have the part with sensor, and the AAA mechanics were right, it’s seized tight and it’s the original factory sensor. Not complaining about having to change the sensor, that’s expected. But the entire exhaust manifold, gaskets, and sensor. Sort of eliminates the concept of a low maintenance automobile.
In september 2011 I buy used “certified” toyota camry 2007 from toyota dealer, since I put 4,000 miles I took the car for oil change, and the mechanic discaver the serpentine belt is damage the rear brakes are gone, I take the car to the dealer, they say the extended warrantye, does not cover this problems. THE REASON I BUY A CAR FROM A CERTIFIED TOYOTA DEALER, IS TO AVOID ALL THIS PROBLEMS. WHAT CAN I DO?
For all above I Pray for you. Toyota is NOT what they used to be. It’s like someone just changed them over night.
I have written in before to this site. Scroll above. I’m still living this nightmare with my 08 Corolla. Monday is “D” day. It’s either take the car back, or see you in irac! I’m going to war!
Don’t Buy a Toyota!
In November of 2010 I bought a Brand new Toyota Rav4, looking at the market at that time I thought it was the best buy. I picked up the car from Pickering Toyota in Ontario Canada and drove it to my house to Toronto. While driving it on the highway I noticed that it was pulling to the left and that there was a light wubble to it. Since Mississauga Toyta Dealer is the cloeset dealer to my house now I decided to take it there to get this problem fixed. I was told that the tires were new and that this problem would fix itself. All they did was rotate the tires from front to back. The pull to the left problem while driving wasn’t as bad bad once they did the rotation but the wubble was still there. I was told that once the tires even out it would all go away. Here I am today it is January 23/2012 my Toyata Rav4 still pulls to the left even with different tires and rims(winter) and the wubble is there. Let me tell you the aggrevation/stress and the time that I wasted dealing with this problem I would never buy a Toyota again!
First let me tell you that Toyota does not care, I have never dealt with a company that has worst people/ customer service ever and I worked for the biggest telecomunication giant in Canada for four year BELL. I must have been at the dealership with this problem about five times leaving the car there for few days. They the technicians/shop foreman know that the problem is there but they don’t know how to fix it. They have contacted Toyota Canada for technical assistance but they have done nothing to help!. I have made numerous of calls to Toyota Canada at least 15 at this point and got nowhere. They will tell you that a manager will contact you back within seven to ten days but they never do. And once that I actually got a call from a so called Manager, hard to believe her name was Lisa at extension 3318 she said that she will look into it and I have never spoken to her again.
I cant believe that Toyota a big company that prides itself for being the best would put its customers through so much aggrevation, you would expect that finally when you buy a new car you will be problem free for at least a few years, well let me tell you this don’t buy a Toyota its not worth all this stress.
Amy – I understand how you feel in terms of the way this all went down, but I think your frustration with the dealer is a bit misplaced. After all, they did diagnose the problem and get the door fixed free of charge…that all has a value.
Still, the fact is they could have done a lot better. If it were me, I’d contact the dealership’s G.M. and explain your side. It won’t change anything in regards to getting your car fixed, but it will make you feel better and help the dealer improve their process.
As far as needing to pay $1600 for a new power door motor? Sorry to hear it. Sadly, none of the parts on a car will last forever. 🙂
Ana – After 4,000 miles, it’s tough to prove that the dealer didn’t do a good job certifying their cars. However, if it were me, I would write a letter documenting the issues your mechanic found and send it to the dealer’s G.M., with a carbon copy to the local Better Business Bureau and another to the local chamber of commerce. If they don’t do something, at least you embarrassed them.
Tony – Sorry to hear things aren’t going well – did you ever manage to get in touch with the dealer licensing board?
Mark – I appreciate your frustration, but I think part of the problem is that you didn’t buy from the local Mississauga dealer. After all, you didn’t like them well enough to buy the car from them, so why do you let them service your car?
Try taking it to Pickering (where you bought it) and see if they’ll fix the problem. Often times, the issue is the dealer and not the manufacturer.
Also, just as you say, the Toyota customer service line is a bit of a joke. All they do is re-route you to the closest dealer…and we already know they can’t do it.
Like I said, drive to the place you bought it, explain what’s happened in a calm and considerate manner, and see what they can do. A new set of eyes (or a better technician) is all it takes sometimes.
I had a 2009 tacoma 4×4 5 spd manual and from day 1 I got over 22mpg highway. I just purchased a new tacoma 4X4 4 spd auto and my mpg are running 16 to 17 highway. Worse is that each time I check the mileage the overall mpg drop. I am now averaging 16.5 mpg highway. (I drive conservatively to. I am told is its acceptable for the truck but why did the truck start off with around 19mpg (would expect) and as I have put miles on it (<1000 still) I get less and less mpg. I am told the engine has to be broken in for at least 2000 miles. At the rate it is going I should just put it in 4 low and drive the truck since I it makes no difference if I drive like an old granny or hotfoot and peel out. Totally disappointed and totally frustrated at the piece of junk they are producing!
Thor – It is true that new engines need a few miles to “break in.” I had an F150 once upon a time that got 12mpg, but after taking it on a long road trip right after 3k miles, it lept from 12mpg to 17mpg. Still not great, but not bad considering the wheels and tires I had on it.
So, give it time, and maybe take it on a long road trip.
My Toyota 2003 RAV4 had ECM problem. I had brought my vehicle to the shop in September 2011 as my noticed Stuttering while driving. During a test srive it was determined the vehicle was having problems gone between gears. After investigating and analysis they came to the conclusion that there was a problem with the ECM. After the ECM wasrebuilt the problem was remedied.
I paid for $816.56 (cash) to repair ECM. that was not my problem and I want my money back. I send the repair document to (Toyota Motor Sales, USA Department WC10, Customer Experience) third time. But they keep send me (hard time)to ask the different document. Toyota don’t want the moneyback to me. That is not fair to me and the Customer.
My Toyota 2003 RAV4 only running Mileage in 94704 under 10 year
Ying – I don’t understand – the ECM on your 8 (maybe 9) year old vehicle went bad and you want Toyota to pay for it? Why would you expect them to provide you with free repairs so long after you bought the car? If I’m missing the point, please let me know.
However, if I’ve understood you perfectly, than please know that Toyota doesn’t warranty cars forever. No manufacturer warranties any car forever. Considering that you only had to pay $800 to fix your problem, and considering that other people have had more expensive problems on newer cars with less mileage, I think you should count your blessings and move on.
Toyota 2001-2003 RAV4 Had ECM problem
Toyota will continue to provide a warranty enchancement to any Class Member, for a period of ten (10) years or 150.000 miles from the C lass Vehicle’s in-service date, whichever occurs first, for a harsh shift condition of the automatic transmission and/ or illumination of the Malfunction Indicator light (check engine light). Toyota will also continue to off reimbursement to current owners pursuant to the existing Customer Support Program.
Ying Tuen Wong
Ying – Now I get it – sorry for going off in my last comment. You sent me a copy of the settlement document, and it indicates the engine trouble codes that are covered pretty clearly. If you ask your dealer to pull their diagnosis record, they’ll tell you which codes were found. If the codes match, you’re covered automatically. If they don’t, you’re not covered. Good luck.
Jason that’s ok. But If I ask Toyota about my vehicle codes No., maybe they don’t want to tell me, where I can find it. Please tell me. Thank’s for your help.
I recently purchased a 2007 Tundra CrewMax 4×4 SR5 TRD with 39000 miles. I bought it out of state because there were none in my area for sale. Now I’m finding the drivetrain is making the clunk noise upon acceleration and de-acceleration. I located the TSB for this issue and it is covered under the powertrain warranty, should I anticipate any issues from the dealer cover this under warranty. I understand if this is not the issue, there will be charges. But is seems this is a documented issue and I can’t think of anything else it could be…I’m worried the dealer, since I did not buy from them may not be as willing to assist. Any comment would be appreciated.
J
Ying – The dealer had to pull the engine codes to diagnose the problem, and the tech would have written them on the repair order (at the very least). Most dealers will input the trouble codes into their computer system for this exact reason. If the dealer won’t tell you what the codes were, there’s no other way to find that info. Once the codes are retrieved, the data is deleted.
Jim – They shouldn’t give you any trouble, but I’d be worried that the previous owner didn’t get this TSB done for a reason…like maybe it’s not the TSB after all. Good luck.
I visited Toyota of Lewisville on December 12, 2011 from approximately 5:40pm until 10:10pm. I drove up to this establishment with my wife and was immediately approached by a very nice and professional Sales Consultant by the name of Okeoma. I immediately told him that we had already visited several dealerships and knew exactly what we were looking for, the payments we were willing to make and for how long.
After test driving a black 2012 Texas Edition Tundra he said he had to work with the New Car Sales Manager by the name of Preston Biard, a man that neither myself nor my wife ever actually saw throughout the proceedings of the night. After quite a few times of Okeoma going back and forth negotiating with Preston, we came to an agreement. I have with me a copy (as does your staff) of this agreement that I was asked to sign in good faith several times.
In the second to last offer, Preston came up with $32,500 total including my 3 trade ins, TTL, with $1000 down, a payment of $780-$785 a month. I clearly wrote as my counter offer with my 3 trade ins, TTL, $300 down, a total of $715 a month for 48 months. Okeoma took that offer back to Preston, who came back with the final offer in which he agreed to everything I wrote down. I did realize that even though we had always discussed the 48 month term, it was not actually written next to the $715 monthly payment amount.
I made sure I stressed that point to Okeoma who agreed that yes, it was always a 48 month term that we were talking about. Just to make sure for a second time that everyone was on the same page, I wrote next to my signature that it was for,”48 months, that’s it, total payment of $715/month”. After this Okeoma again leaves to speak with Preston and comes back some time later stating that all was good, everything was agreed and he has permission to take us up to a finance person by the name of John Lewis.
Upon arriving in John’s office after 4 hours of negotiating, he starts typing up our agreement and informs us that he can’t make the numbers match the payment and terms of the agreement that we spent 4 hours negotiating. At this point I am fed up, and start to leave. I was then offered to sit back down and try for a less expensive Tundra for the same amount we agreed on.
When I asked for an explanation, all I got was, “well, Preston didn’t know that it was for a 48 month term”. I only wrote 3 things, they were $715 a month, 48 months, and $300 down. Please correct me if I am wrong, but his whole job is to read everything that I wrote and counteroffer until we come to an agreement. Preston had already obtained all the information on all 3 of my trade ins and ran my credit report, so he clearly had all the information he needed to make a fair deal.
Why is my signature required after every offer your Sales Manager offers me if he is not required to uphold the same “good faith” standards that I am? He is the one making the deal, if this deal is not in the best interest of your company, then I suggest you train your people better in researching the deal before he makes it. I was deceived for over 4 hours. When I was told that he made a mistake and thought we were talking about a 6 year agreement, and then, I was told that,” it was only 2 more years,” I could not believe it.
I’m sorry, but “only” 2 more years of a $715/ month payment is a dramatic difference, a 17,160 dollar difference! I’m not sure if this is how you treat female customers, gay couples, or if it is just a standard technique they play with all customers. Either way, I will say this, it is wrong. , I feel it is my duty as a good citizen to inform the rest of the community of the way Toyota does business If for no other reason, to find out how often this happens at this establishment and to what types of gender, sexual orientation, or color it happens to most.
Toyota should be ashamed I don’t understand why good faith is only meant for the customer. I will be pursuing the issue legally. I do believe that an oral agreement is legal.
REPLY from consumer:
You know you are being worked when the “manager” had you “sign” everytime you made a counteroffer on that piece of paper. There is no valid reason to sign that “paper” that goes to the manager via the salesperson, except that the dealership uses it to make you think you have a deal. It means nothing to the dealer – except they get a laugh when the salesrep goes to the “manager”. A laugh at your expense, literally and figuratively.
There is only one set of documents that mean anything and that is the contract that is signed in the F&I office. Any sort of showmanship on a 4-square or similar document is just that – showmanship. If a dealer/salesrep/manger starts that business on you, its time to walk out and find another dealership.
Today, you do your research online before you step foot into a dealership. Get your financing lined up with a credit union before you ever even go to any dealer. That way you know your terms before they even meet you. If you do it that way, you come from a position of strengh. If they don’t sell it to you for the price you negotiate with the research you have completed before visiting the dealer, you walk out and find someone that will. After all, with your own financing arranged in advance, you are the same as a cash buyer. Don’t let the dealerships work you – you work them.
If everyone did their research first, the dealerships would change or go out of business.
REPY 2
f all consumers requested to see the computer printout from the sales manager, they would be able to fully understand their ‘deal’. Whenever a sales person brings back a ‘four square’ with hand-written information, like monthly payment, trade-in value, cash down, etc., the customer is being tricked, deceived, and manipulated by the sales manager.
MovingForward is 100% correct in what was stated in Consumer Comment #4.
The majority of Toyota dealerships in the USA, along with most other car dealerships, are attempting to ‘trick’ potential buyers by manipulating them with all of the hand-written figures on the ‘four square’. The reason it is called a ‘four square’ is because there are four sections on that piece of paper that have the following-
1. Price of vehicle.
2. Trade-in value.
3. Down payment.
4. Monthly payment.
Whenever a customer enters into negotiation with a sales person, they are really being manipulated by the sales manager. Most Toyota sales people have no idea of what is really taking place, in regards to what is put onto the four square. Toyota dealerships purposely hire young sales people with very little knowledge. That way, the sales managers can control what is really taking place.
Most of the owner/operators of Toyota dealerships in the USA are unethical. Most Toyota sales managers are unethical. Most are uneducated. Most Toyota sales managers couldn’t structure a proper sentence, using the English language.
Most of the business that is conducted in America is done in the same way that the majority of Toyota dealerships operate. That’s why there are so many problems in this country.
Our system in America has its foundation solidly built on lies, deception, fraud, manipulation, greed, trickery, deep corruption, and the constant pursuit to financially injure as many innocent and unsuspecting consumers as possible. We saw what took place in the mortgage business from 2003 until 2007, right? It created a ‘meltdown’ in the banking sector and a stock market crash in September of 2008.
The same thing was happening, and still is happening, in the car business.
Thank You
Jennifer – It sounds like the dealership made a massive error and really upset you, and I can certainly understand.
However, just so there’s no confusion:
1. We’re not affiliated with Toyota
2. It’s not a deal until you sign the paperwork and drive off with the car
Repeat: It’s not a deal until you sign and take the keys.
This is true of cars, houses, boats…anything expensive. Sorry you had to learn this lesson the hard way. Better luck next time. 🙂
Hi, I have 2005 4Runner and have had problems with the electric door locks. So far I’ve had five door lock accuators replaced:
12/19/08 – Driver Rear
3/29/09 – Driver Front
3/29/09 – Passenger Rear
5/5/10 – Passenger Front
6/9/11 – Driver Front
The repairs have always been covered by the extended warranty, but that expired 3 months ago. While I do expect parts to fail due to normal wear and tear the fact each door has had a problem leads me to believe some kind of design flaw exists with the lock mechanism. Do think I’m right about the design flaw, or is it just that a part breaks over time? If a flaw any suggestion on how to get it covered since the vihicle is out of warranty (I’ve done almost all of my service at the dealer)?
Thanks.
I have a 2005 Maroon Camry Purchased used in 2008 with 11,000 on it. I have no engine complaints with the car. It is a good car and I have been a toyota owner for some years. My complaint is the front bumper paint which has blistered and peeled away. Unsightly to say the least. My neighbor tells me it is a fault with the clear coating. I took it to my local dealer about 2 years ago 2010, and he said the warranty would not cover. He could give me a name of someone who could paint it. He said it was living at the ocean. I have lived at the ocean for years with both Toyotas, Hondas and Fords etc. Never have they blistered and I keep my cars a long time. Currently this car has 55,000 on it. Other cars here of similar age do not show this blistering. Any help? Thanks.
Stuart – That’s odd to be sure. It’s one thing to replace them all after a few years, quite another to replace the driver’s door twice in 3 years.
Have you looked on 4Runner forums for some advice? It could be a design issue, and if so there is probably a fix you can do on your own.
Heidi – It is a problem with the paint, and it has to do with the fact that Toyota was one of the first automakers to switch to water-solvent automotive paints. They were aggressive in making this transition because it bolstered their corporate environmental record, but the downside is that more than a few 2007-2009 Toyota owners have experienced paint problems.
Sadly, there is no warranty for this type of thing…it’s very difficult to prove that Toyota’s paint is defective (only I’m all but certain that’s the case), and therefore Toyota doesn’t cover it.
I purchased a used Toyota that was “certified” from a Toyota Dealership. I was given the complimentery fact sheet showing the car history.No wreck was reported. Long story short, the car was totaled in a wreck recentley. While settling with the insurance company, it was shown in the car history that it had been wrecked. I did further investigating and found the wreck repairs were posted on Toyota’s own maintenance logs on there company website. I contend that I was sold a car with diminished value that the dealership knew about and did not disclose. I think I should set up a meeting with the GM to negotiate reembersment for the diminished value. What do you think?
Paul – I don’t know enough about the particulars, but it’s hard to argue for damages due to diminished value unless the insurance company reduced their settlement b/c of that previous accident. Just asking for money because the dealer may have improperly certified the car isn’t going to work I don’t think…
Also I say “may have” improperly certified the car because, in my experience, AutoCheck and Carfax are wrong about vehicle history on a frighteningly regular basis, and these are the reports used to certify the car. The dealer might not have done anything wrong.
MY MOM TOOK HER CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THE OIL CHANGED BEFORE SHE WENT ON A
Finally, I got my money back for the Toyota (2003 Rav4)ECM rebuilt problem
Ying – Excellent! Glad to hear you got it covered. Once again, sorry for going off half-cocked.
I have been dealing with an A/C problem in my Tundra for the last three years. The A/C has an obvious electrical problem that is intermittent. It is so intermittent that I have difficulty getting the problem to happen at the dealership for their mechanics to diagnose the problem.
The truck started to act up at 8K miles and was supposedly fixed with a swap out of a compressor and amplifier…only after I was fleeced for a new cabin air filter that needed to be replaced at 8K? The truck went back into the shop with the same problem at about 26K miles and the amplifier was replaced again. In less than a week, I had the same problem. This time, I was able to get the truck to the dealership with the A/C completely broken hoping it would be diagnosed. No such luck. More parts, and truck still broke. I was assured that they had checked all of the electrical connections and they were all good. Truck worked fine for five months, and then back in the shop. This cycle kept going well outside of warranty and the dealership continued to try to find the problem. They wanted the name of my extended warranty company so they could bill them, which I thought was unethical considering the same problem had happened three times while under warranty. I wouldn’t give it to them.
Finally, they told me that the next time it acts up, take it to the closest Toyota and have a technician diagnose it on the spot. Since the vehicle was out of warranty, they would work with the regional rep to get the problem fixed on Toyota’s dime. One day while driving home from work, the A/C quit again and I stopped into the closest dealership. Within fifteen minutes, the technician said that it was a very simple diagnosis, the connections on my wiring harness were bad, and needed to be replaced. The only problem is that it is an extensive job, and I should take it to my dealership because they had been working the problem.
My dealership had the truck for three days and I finally had to call them. They said they couldn’t find the problem and discounted the other dealerships technician by saying he wasn’t a “master” technician, and I should come pick my truck up again, because they can’t figure it out until it breaks again. This is the eighth or ninth time this has happened.
Not sure what to do at this point, any advice would be appreciated.
Twocan – That’s got to be frustrating. If the vehicle were still under warranty, you could probably make a lemon law claim. Now that you’ve had it for a few years, your best bet is to keep grinding away at it.
However, I would *definitely* suggest getting another dealership to look at it. If the tech at the dealership you’re working with has given up, they’ll just keep giving it back to you without trying to fix it.
2008 Highlander with Odor coming from Air Conditioner. Took it to the dealer who wanted to change evaporator based on TSB 0314-09. Vehicle within TSB VIN but out of Original Manufacturers Warranty. Dealer contacted Toyota Extended Warranty who denied based on NOT a mechanical failure. Ended up cleaning A/C system as recommended but odor still remains.
TSB clearly defines a design flaw. How can I get help remedying this problem. Car is becoming undriveable due to the smell when the AC or Defrosters are used.
I personally called Toyota Financial Services about my extended warranty and again, only covers mechanical failures. I also called Toyota Customer Service and they tried to explain the TSB is just information for the tech. (Although to me, it clearly states a design defect in certain Highlanders and the replacement of a newly designed evaporator will allievate the problem!)
Any help would be appreciated as we love the Highlander, just can’t take the smell anymore
Steve – First, a stupid question: Has the dealer tried using some of the fancy anti-microbial foams that are available? They’ve been known to mitigate or fix the problem.
As for getting the warranty to cover the problem, unfortunately that’s not going to be easy. If you could somehow get a doctor to say that the mold growing in your A/C system is potentially toxic, that might force them to take care of it…but that’s a wild guess on my part.
Is the dealer willing to do the labor for free if you buy the parts? That isn’t a perfect solution, but at least the smell is gone…
i leased a 2011 camry le last january and in the last few months after it rained the left side of my trunk got all wet. now i lifted up the floor of the trunk and the tire is sitting in a pool of water. what can this be from and will the dealership i leased from cover this issue? can i demand a loaner car until it gets fixed? thanks.
Anon – This should absolutely be covered, provided the dealership can replicate the leak. If your trunk is wet but the dealership can’t figure out where the water is coming from, they might not be able to fix it under warranty.
Big lesson learned. Don’t go the the Toyota Dealerships for big fixes.
Days of true diagnostic are gone.
My Toyota Serive center never offered me a diagnostic check.
I own a 2003 Scion Xb.
Coil failure resulting in spark plug ejected out of the head. This was diagnosed by a car repair shop over the phone, not the Toyota Dealership who had my car for one day and never asked to do a diagnotics check. Sorry Sierra Toyota in Lancaster CA. June
To whom it may concern,
I am writing this letter to express my unhappiness with Westbury Toyota. On 3/31/12, I purchased a 2012 Toyota Camry LXE. I purchased the extra options package which included entunes navigation. As, I was leaving the dealership with my vehicle, I had set up the Bluetooth technology. The system shut off and rebooted and the salesman (who was wonderful) told me to go home and learn it, set it up, etc… After doing so, everytime I made a call, the system would shut down in the middle of a call and reboot….
I set up a service visit two days after having my new car. I find this highly unacceptable. When you purchase something brand new, it should work properly. If it does not, I would think it should be replaced. I was told they need to service my vehicle. WHY should I have to bring a brand NEW car in for service? I might mention that I have an 8 week old baby and was forced to sit in the waiting room with her crying for over two hours before they told me they could not do anything and had to open a ticket with the rep and sent me home UNRESOLVED.
When I expressed my disappointment with this, the service manager, Barry Weissman got in touch with me. I have NEVER had someone speak so condescending and arrogant to me. I was most upset with the way he spoke down to me regarding my concerns. I made it very clear that I did NOT want a brand new car torn apart, because once it is, it is never the same. I purchased a new vehicle factory sealed and now it was going to get “repaired” two days later!!!!!!!!! That is unacceptable on so many levels. I was given a loaner today and was appalled that it was covered in bird feces and crumbs beyond belief inside. You cannot even clean the vehicle before you give it out???? I am so unhappy and will never purchase from Toyota again…. I hope I get my car back fixed without any future problems but the bad taste that Barry and your business ethics put in my mouth will be remembered. I would have thought that Toyota stood to higher expectations. I had every intentions of continuing my relationship with Toyota. Now, I am inclined to think otherwise. I would hope that you re-train your managers in customer service and better how you do business.
Melissa – Be sure to leave a review of this dealership on Google reviews, Yelp, etc. – that’s the best way to get them to clean up their act.
I recently took my 2006 4runner 4.7L in for the scheduled timing belt and water pump service for 100,000 miles. After the repair, I drove the vehicle for a month. I checked the coolant level and low and behold there was nearly no water in the radiator. The check engine light also came on for a P0117 and indicated 2 miles driven since the error was recorded. I can tell that the leak was from the thermostat housing.
The dealer towed the vehicle back to their shop and fixed the leak and said everything was good. As an engineer, I am concerned that due to the location of the water temp sensor and the level of the water that I was probably driving with insufficient water for a while before the light kicked on and that I may have caused premature wear on components especially the water pump. The dealer is saying that no potential for damage occurred. I want the service manager to provide a warranty because it may cause future problems but they are refusing. Any suggestions?
Unfortunately, no. The dealer fixed the problem, so they’re off the hook unless you can demonstrate a problem…which is pretty hard to do.
Still, I understand your concern. Might be a good reason to trade it in and get a new one.
I am having trouble with my “Certified Used 2006 Avalon” weaving slightly at times. I am big and I drive with one knee on the center console wall and the other knee against the door. Between 40-50 mph. The car wobbles left to right and continues to do this unless you change speeds. When I need to pass someone on the highway (70mph) the steering wheel vibrates and shimmy’s a little bit. I have been told by Orleans Toyota in Orleans MA that they never feel anything wrong when driving the car. They even informed me that because the local speed limit is 55mph, they can’t test drive a car that fast. They tell me it is a tire problem, but they also tell me the tires have no problems. They said I need a high speed balance and that they can’t do them there. Now they expect me to come out of pocket for this High Speed Balance. I have complained about these 2 problems since March 2012. It is now May 22, 2012 and my 1 year certified period is ending. I was told that since their 5 minute road tests showed nothing to them they were unwilling to look at any other problems. I had to bring a 2003 Avalon back to the dealership in May 2011 for problems with the steering. I FIND THAT THESE DEALERSHIPS DON’T CARE TO FIX ANYTHING UNLESS YOU ARE COMING OUT OF POCKET FOR IT. I am baffled by this type of service. The only way I was taken seriously with the 2003 Avalon was when I spoke with the owner’s son. What should i do??? I am basically being told that I am wrong and there are no issues with my vehicle. They won’t even take the time to look at the car. PLEASE TELL ME WHAT I SHOULD DO??? I owned a 1995 Camry for 11 years. Now 2 different Avalon’s in one year are showing similar problems.
Brian – This sounds like a textbook example of a wheel balance issue, and it’s important to understand that different people have different sensitivities to this problem. It may very well be that the dealership tech doesn’t feel the issue, especially because he doesn’t drive the car as often as you do.
My suggestion is to do the high speed balance yourself and to ask the dealer to agree to pay for the high speed balance if it is indeed out of spec.
If it isn’t, than you’ll have to pay for it out of pocket, but at least the issue will be resolved.
I have a Toyota corolla 2005 bought new from St. Charles Toyota in IL, recently, my wife started observing the airbag warning light comes ON while driving.
The airbag light will turn off by itself the next day or after stopping the car and restarting it again.
We took it to the same dealer to find out the reason and fix it. First time, he charged us a checkup fee of 1 hour labor and said he found the wire harness under the driver seat was loose and that’s was the problem. I was happy to be that simple and my wife drove the car not long enough before the airbag light came ON again.
Took the car again to the same dealer and this time he said that he wants to have it while the light is ON to get the error code from the car computer and we have to reschedule because it was off.
Next time once the light came ON, I took the car again to the dealer and left for few days to check it out and fix it. Dealer contacted us later saying that he must remove the carpet to look to the wires underneath it and that’s will require to pay again for repair and parts, of course I was upset and complained, then dealer agreed to waive repair charges but I have to pay for the parts which was an airbag sensor. I agreed since the Dealer assured me it will fix the problem and I had to pay for the sensor about $230.
Not long enough, the airbag light came on again after few days. I took the car again to same dealer and I mentioned to him that my wife noticed that the digital clock on the car goes off around the same time which might give him a clue where to look for the cause of this problem. Next day, dealer called and said that the clock has a ground wire connected with the airbag system ground and he need to change the clock which should fix the problem.
We thought that’s it and my wife drove the car for 3 weeks and then the airbag light came on again. Took the car back to the dealer and told him that I am very upset because they should knew and fix the problem long time by contacting the manufacture(Toyota) which he promised.
Next day he called me saying that the manufacture is suggesting to change the complete airbag wiring system and it will cost me $1434. I told him that it is a suggestion not a definite resolution which might not be the real cause of the problem and I would have spent $1434 for nothing.
At this point I contacted the corporate office in Torance-Calif and spoke with 2 consumer relation persons and to make my story short, they insisted that the only way is to change the complete wire harness without any guarantee it will fix the problem.
Now, What I should do ?
Someone suggested to write a letter to state attorney.
I would appreciated if you can advise me with my next step.
Thanks
How frustrating! I’ve seen first hand how these intermittent wiring problems can take numerous efforts to resolve. I don’t have any suggestion really, because the simple fact is that no one can know for sure if the next fix will actually “fix” the problem…
Are they willing to pay for all the labor, at least? That would be the fair thing, seeing as how they can’t solve the problem.
Good luck.
I wish I’d read this thread prior to purchasing my Rav4. Here’s my horror story:
A month ago (April 30) I was driving home (Hwy 33). There were no vehicles in front or behind me. Suddenly I heard a HUGE bang! I thought a tire had blown or I had been shot at. The loud sound terrified me! I immediately pulled over, examined my tires, and instead, discovered my sun roof had literally shattered into a million pieces. The remainder of the shattered sunroof formed the shape of an ant hill or volcano. I immediately called Mayfield Toyota in Edmonton, Alberta. I have an extended warrantee, and kilometres are under 80,000. The individual I spoke with laughingly told me that was the third sunroof they had explode within the last month. It was not a joke to me, it was a terrifying experience, and then …. I found out the replacement cost. They told me it would cost a minimum of $1200.00. I lost my husband two years, am working full time to support myself and can not absorb this sudden cost. They told me the tempered glass must have had a rock hit it. How does this happen? I NEVER drive with the sunroof open, have only opened it when parked in a shopping mall to let my dog have fresh air. My son operates a window/glass installation business and informed me that tempered glass is a special high resistant glass and can only be damaged from impact to the side of the glass (ex: if I was driving with it open and a rock happened to hit the edge of the glass). It has been made to withstand all direct impact, and I have never driven with the sunroof open. I am extremely concerned with the information that four sunroofs for Toyota’s have shattered …. this can’t be normal, yet I have not seen an official recall on this. The dealership would not give me any kind of a deal, I was forced to absorb the entire cost of replacing the sunroof. I have a job that requires me to drive; desperately need a reliable vehicle, but am not in a position where I can afford this. HELP !!!! This is not right. With my extended warrantee which includes free oil changes, I’ve already been forced to spend over $400 on what Toyota told me was necessary upkeep when my vehicle reached a certain mileage. A month later, my sunroof exploded. Let’s see if you are honest enough to respond to my genuine request for help. I’m not too confident. I look forward to hearing a response. PLEASE HELP ME !!
Sylvia – Tempered glass can shatter from impacts, whether they’re delivered head-on or from the side, so the most likely explanation is that something hit the roof. Could it be that someone threw a rock at your car, or maybe something got kicked up?
If you can get the dealership to say that the damage was caused by a rock (or something like it), your insurance company will cover it.
As far as problems with sunroofs exploding, that’s not something I’ve heard of…but I’ll check on it for you and reply here if I hear anything.
My Air injection pump and secondary air valve for emissions went out on a return trip from camping over the long weekend. Had to have my 2006 Toyota Tundra towed back to Toyota of Puyallup (Washington State) where I purchased this truck from with a service contract AND an Extended Warranty 6yr/100000mi (I have 66500), which of course ran out 6 months ago, almost to the day it crapped out on the freeway.
I had AAA tow the truck to the dealership and after having to wait for them to open and confirm that the warranty did indeed expire, I was quoted $2657 to repair this pump which runs for an entire 30 seconds at start up to send warm air to Cat Converter. I have spent the last week looking on line for ideas on how to work with this. I tried all of the things listed on this website about so called “after warranty assistance”. I was told that since I havent had the truck at the dealer in the last 18 months they wouldnt help me. I drive the truck 5-6 miles a day for work to a train station and home and since I no longer live NEAR the dealer had the last 2 oil chnages done close to my house. I called and asked to speak to the service manager, Rich. He was such a wuss, he made the clerk who I have been working with since Tuesday, Lori, call me back to say they wouldnt help me, I asked about it being covered under emissions as Washington follows California standards and they still declined it, said its not part of the emissions system. But the truck won’t run without it hooked to the emissions, so how is it not part of the emissions??
After this, I tried calling the Portland office and was sent to some national customer service line instead of being able to talk to anyone at the Portland Headquarters that covers WA/OR/ID etc. They were also worthless to speak to and wanted to give me a reference number and confirm my name etc, why when they refused to help me as well? I dont get that!? its not like I’ll be calling them back EVER!
So I now have a 5500lb worthless anchor that I guess I’ll start a new reef habitat at the bottom of Puget Sound and name it after worthless Toyota, who by the way, has lost my business for life.
I have even sent many people to this dealership telling them about great service and how easy they were to work with. Not any more. Now i have to figure out how to bypass this pump system and I start looking for someone that will take this POS and make sure my bus pass is full or get a rental until then so I can get to some appointments.
Toyota has lost all of my Family business for life!!
Aaron – Very frustrating experience. I understand your feelings completely. My only suggestion is to check with a local independent repair shop. They may be able to get things working for far less than the $2600 quoted. Good luck.
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I have only had my 2012 Tundra truck for 10 days with only 315 miles when 1) the key fob would not open the truck door. I had to unlock the truck the old fashion way with the key. 2) once truck was started the gear would not shift out of park. I had to use a pen to pry open the square button to the left of the gear shift to move the gear into drive. 3) none of the electronics worked– no a/c, no interior lights, no directionals, no radio, no blue tooth. 4) The dealer had the truck towed back to their service center. The next day dealer informed me that the damage was not under warranty, a part, electrical wire harness, would have to be ordered and I would have to pay for the part and towing charges for the vechicle to be towed back to the dealer. 5) the dealer explained that the Bully rear stepper with a light bar was the cause of the problem. I have used this stepper light bar on my previous 2006, and 2010 Tundra trucks without any problems. 6) the dealer cost to fix the problem is $550, which includes towing charges.
Any advice would be much appreciated. I do not have a warm feeling with the dealer’s explaination, etc. and do not know what the next step should be.
Fred – It’s pretty rare that a dealer will deny a warranty claim on a brand-new truck. To give you some background, Toyota gives their dealers the ability to deny or approve warranty claims on their own. Toyota simply says that they will review anything they find suspicious. Therefore, I’m guessing your dealer felt like there was no way to convince Toyota that the problem was caused by something they did.
Any chance the person who installed your light bar made a mistake?
I have a 2003 Camry with about 210000 miles on it. Started having issues with the water pump. Changed it with little or no problem. However,a leak showed up shortly which was found to be coming from somewhere on the back rear of the engine. Had a shop look at it and it was found to be a blown head gasket. Joy. The head was removed and they found 4 head bolts were LOOSE. Also found the top 5 bolts that hold the intake manifold, which is plastic, were also loose and 2 had almost come out. When this mess was reassembled it was found that the head bolts could not be torqued to specs. I now have a car that I had hoped would last a bit longer. True, it is high mileage, but those bolts didn’t just loosen up in the last 6 months. However, I’m told that the Toyota folks will sell me a brand new engine for $11,000. I think I’ll pass. If you own a 2002 thru 2007 Camry, be aware that all the engines are the same. Me thinks someone is ignoring this problem. Of course, you can fix it for $11,000. Good luck!
I purchased an 2012 Prius V 5 on Wednesday, from Helena Motors, Helena, MT. When I put the deposit check down on August 20, 2012, I was promised .9% financing. When I picked up the vehicle, I was told that even though the Toyota NW rate sheet showed.9% financing from August 17 to September 4, 2012, Toyota was not going to honor this. They advised Toyota had pulled the offer mid stream. Understand that I have Excellent credit. This issue was not for me but for everyone. This was a deciding factor on purchasing the 2012 model end of season. What happened to Integrity – does that word translate ?
I would like to see Toyota remedy this situation
Disappointed in Helena, MT
Rick – My guess? The dealership quoted you the wrong rate. To be blunt, this is why neither consumers or dealers should do deposits…it’s not a deal until the papers are signed and the car has left the dealership. In this case, you would have been better off if you had bought and drove away on the 20th.
I own a 2008 Toyota Rav4. For the last year I’ve taken my car in 3 times for scraping noise that only occurs periodically and only when I start my car. It only last for a second. Of course I was told nothing can be done unless the problem can be duplicated. Well this June Toyota dealership kept my car for 8 days. They heard the noise. The following is a list of what they replaced:A0 Gasket, Oil Pump; A) Gasket ,(2) Cylinder HEA;(2)A0 Gasket; A3 Gear Assy, Camshaft; A0 FIPG Oil Pan. bank 2 Exhaust VVT-I Cam Shaft Gear Malfunction.
Replaced Bank 2 Exhaust VVT-I Cam Shaft Gear Assembly.
MISC Repairs include: A1 Housing Sub-Assy;(2) A0 gasket, Intake Manif.
I don’t have a clue what the above means, but I know they had to order parts and I drove off a happy camper thinking all is well. 58k mileage on car, so no charge for repairs.
Well noise has started again. I’m back to square one.
Servie department says, we can’t work on car until noise can be duplicated. I hear it one every 2 wks. I asked if I could record the sound. Was told NO. Only option, according to Toyota is to leave my car again and maybe one day the noise will be heard.
What do I do? I trying to be nice, but I’m one of those people who keeps a car for 15 years. I’m 62 planning a retirement without a car note. I carry around my grandchildren in a car I thought was reliable. I’m scared and I know my fear translates into frustration. I don’t know what to do. Some advice. Please.
Faye – Unfortunately, they can’t fix a problem they can’t diagnose. Until you can produce the noise for them on cue or until the engine computer sets a check code, you’re sort of stuck. Sorry I don’t have a better answer.
Hi, I’ve just purchased a 2007 Toyota Blade but it did not have an owners manual in English. I purchased one over the net but it does not have the same dash board as my car does(model AZE154H)so I am still at a loss on how to work the DVD, TV, GPS etc. I am in New Zealand, any suggestions?
Lois,
Hmm… That’s a tough one. Have you tried contacting a Toyota Dealership in New Zealand?
I found this listing of dealerships, http://www.toyota.co.nz/Dealer.....ocator.htm.
-Tim
I HAVE A 2006 TOYOTA AVALON AND I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THERE A WARRANTY ON A VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR,
Mildred,
Toyota warranties vehicles for 3 years or 36,000 miles. It looks like you have a 2006 which is, unfortunately, outside the warranty range offered.
Best of luck,
Tim
Dick Dyer Toyota in Columbia SC has the worst service dept. I have ever seen. I have gone back for the same thing several times and they finally fixed it. Now I have another problem and thay dont the part to repair it. How many times do you have go to the dealer to get service.
Raymond,
Sometimes getting a car repaired is quite simply a pain-in-the-rear. Hopefully, they ordered the part and it won’t take long to fix.
-Tim
I have been a loyal customer of Toyota since 1985 until 2012. I have purchased 4 Toyota trucks from Ryburn Motor Company in Monticello,Arkansas 71655 . I recently had a problem with my check engine light coming on. I have always had all my trucks serviced on time and have always used Ryburn Motor in Monticello and trusted in them to take care of my trucks. I took my truck to Ryburn on 09/17/12 they informed me I would have to bring my truck back on the 09/24/12 they did a computer inspection on 09/24/12 and informed the problem was evap. found gas cap bad and canister stopped up need to replace.So it was replaced for a total of $102.38 Then on 09/26/12 I return to Ryburn to have them tell me I a CHARCOAL CANISTER which cost $ 582.47. Needless to say in total I paid $965.73 to later find out from another mechanic that all I needed to begin with was a gas cap. I have trusted Ryburn Motor with all my trucks but I’m very disappointed in their performance. My husband and I are on a fixed income and I’m very upset with Ryburn Motor. Ryburn Motor of Monticello has had several complaints on them in the the last year. One employee was fired for not putting lug nuts tight on a truck and tire came off customers truck employee has recently been rehired doing detail work !!! My opinion this dealership should be checked into. I hope to get a response back from someone soon…
James & Judy,
That stinks when a dealer you trust doesn’t quite work out for you. I did notice you said Charcoal Canister. Toyota released a Technical Service Bulletin to fix this problem although you must be within Warranty to have it addressed. Check out this post we wrote about it:
Water Charcoal Canister TSB
If that doesn’t help you might try calling the regional Toyota offices we have listed on this post.
Sadly, we are not affiliated with Toyota in anyway whatsoever. So, we aren’t much help with dealer issues or any Toyota issues actually. We merely report on them.
-Tim
I have a 2005 Matrix, bought in 2004. I had always brought my car to the Toyota Dealer for regular maintenance. In 2008, there was rattling and squeaking noise from the engine. The dealer said it’s because of faulty AC motor? and then said that it’s because of bad serpentine belt. I changed the serpentine belt and it was good for a year before the noise came back. I had changed the serpentine belt 3 times in the last 4 years.
When the noise came back a few weeks ago, I googled it and found that Toyota issued a TSB for it in 2007. I was so pissed I brought my car to another mechanic who fixed it according to the TSB. Do you have any insight on how can the dealer not know that there’s a TSB for it, while an average consumer like me can find it within 10 min of “goggling” it?
The engine line also came on a few days ago and the mechanic said that one of the caps was cross threaded causing evap. leak (I assumed this is because of the incompetent people at the dealer, as they were the only people who had done any work on my car).
There are also other small things that made me lose their trust over the years….
I want to file complain, but I am past the point where the dealer can buy me off. I just want this dealer to know that I am not very happy with their service.
What is the best way to do this for the dealer “to get the maximum impact”?
Thanks
Ed – The best insight I can give you is that the typical dealership has a poor process. The best way to make sure that every car gets the TSB attention it deserves is to print out a copy of the TSBs as they come in, put them in a book where everyone (techs and service advisors both) can look at them, and then finally management has to make sure that every tech and advisor knows about every TSB. That’s harder than just doing nothing, so there you go.
As for maximum impact, review them on Google, Yelp, and DealerRater – that’s the best way to hurt a dealer these days short of suing them.
Thanks Jason.
I will do that!
Hi. I bought a brand new 2010 Rav4 V6 Sport in April 2010 and when it was time to get the first oil change I brought it to the Toyota dealership I bought the vehicle from. A couple of days later I left for vacation and drove approximately 400 miles. I arrived to my location with no problem, no indicator lights on, etc. The following morning as I was pulling out of the driveway I heard a strange noise (kind of a soft clicking noise). I immediately shut-off the vehicle. I checked the oil and there was no oil indicator on the dip stick (oil light still off). As the car was only a few months old at this point a local Toyota dealer came and towed the car and replaced the oil. They said the plug was cracked and the vehicle had slowly been leaking oil!! Who knows if any damage was done to the engine. After we got home from the trip and I think at the next oil change or maybe before that we took the oil to a friend who checked for metal filings but found none. Fast forward 2.5 years later and I brought the vehicle to a certified mechanic last week (not the Toyota dealer where I bought it because I am still disgusted with them over the vehicles first oil change) for a scheduled oil change and a little over a week later while driving the vehicle I notice the EXACT same noise and what do you know…it’s showing NO OIL! I could cough up the first experience to some really bad luck, but this has now happened TWICE to a vehicle with only 30K miles.
Do I need to call the National Toyota Offices or write a letter? I don’t know what to do, but not knowing if either of these cases has permanently damaged the engine on such a new vehicle is very unnerving.
Mary,
I would first write a letter expressing your concerns. If they don’t at least attempt to rectify the situation then I would call the National Office.
-Tim
We bought a 2010 nissan altima from toyota on western in chicago illinois on December 22 2011.after a couple of days we took it back for swaying in rear when going over bumps with passengers on back seat.Our sales lady Holly Hart told us there was nothing wrong after riding on back seat.So a week later we took back for same problem,once again they did nothing about it.I bought the toyota gold warranty plan with the car.So now the swaying has gotten worst 12,000 miles later.I took my altima to nissan of Orland Park Illinos.the service guy told me the car needs rear shocks,& they have been bad for a while.So he called toyota on western where we bought the car & now they refuse to fix it,saying the warranty wasn’t gonna cover it.Now our sales lady Holly Hart said she was going to take care of the problem but now she won’t call us back.Can someone please help us with this matter this is the second car we’ve bought from toyota.We feel that we are being treated very unfair about this problem which we took back twice before it got this far.My Email is tonyweirsr@yahoo.com Thank You!!!!
Anthony & Kavetta Weir,
I might have missed something, but it sounds like you own a Nissan that you bought from a Toyota dealer. And that you don’t own a Toyota vehicle. Sounds like you have a dealer issue. Is the gold warranty plan from the Toyota company or the dealer? Seems like it would have to be from the dealer since Toyota (the company) is highly unlikely to warranty a Nissan product. Is there a customer service number with the warranty?
My recommendation would be to call the warranty company.
-Tim
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In May of 2012 I purchased a new 2012 Highlander,it was the 3rd Highlander we have owned. Shortly after the purchase we found that the AC wasn’t working. I took it back to the dealer and was told the vehicle had not been properly prepped and the AC fluid had not been put into the vehicle. Shortly after we were out of town and again the AC failed. I took the vehicle to a dealer near where we were staying and was told there was a leak in the line and the dealer said he fixed the problem. Fast forward to today, we are in SW Florida and the AC isn’t working again , so I took the vehicle into the dealer in Ft Myers and was told there was no fluid and there is very likely a line leak. The people were very friendly and put fluid and some sort of dye in the line to try and isolate the leak, but I will have to go back to the dealer in a few days to allow the dye to flow through the line and then determine where the leak is. Frankly I’m an unhappy camper, this the 3rd attempt to fix a problem in a new vehicle and I don’t purchase new vehicles to have to continue to visit dealers around the country.
Dan,
I can see how frustrated this is. Hopefully, they will finally get it right this time and find the leak. On the bright side, at least this seems to be a small leak issue and not something more. 🙂
-Tim
I purchased a 2012 camry at Toyota of St. Augustine ,FL which is now Beaver Toyota. I feel when I brought my car in, all I get is the run around. My car is a few months old, not even had the first oil change, when at speeds of approx. 70, 75 mph, the car moves around like a strong wind is blowing it back and forth, I brought it in and the service advisor says we have to take it for a test drive on 95 which is approx. 15 miles from the dealership and then we have to take another Camry on a test drive to compare, I thought this is a bit of overkill and time consuming since I do have a job, I asked why not put the car on the lift to see if the 4 wheel alignment needs adjusting, he aid, he can do that, but if that’s not the problem I won’t be able to get another alignment, I thought this a bit strange when I can bring my car to any tire shop and they will be glad to check the alignment at no charge, I am very unhappy with this dealership, i’m sorry I bought a car there, I wont be returning and won’t purchase another Toyota and have owned Toyota’s since 1976. Mr Larry August 904-540-6635 larryaug@bellsouth.net
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I purchased a 2007 Toyota Solara Convertible, new. It was great until it hit 50,000. miles. Then the rear window separated from the top; I was told the only fix was a new top since the window can’t be replaced. I took care of that. Within months the dash started cracking. All of the cracks are in stress points. The dealership keeps telling me it’s from the heat (I live in FL) – but the car was sold in FL. I don’t think the cracks are from the heat; the only time my car is out in the sun is when I’m at work and if that’s the case why don’t the other 5 or 6 vehicles in the parking lot at work have cracks in their dash? Any suggestions on how to get this taken care of?
Bev,
I did a quick search via Google and it seems that a small percentage of other Toyota products including your Solara have had an issue with cracking on the dash. My search showed it doesn’t seem to be a consistent issue for a lot of owners. This means, unfortunately, you might be stuck with having to replace the dash yourself. That stinks, but that is how these things work out if it doesn’t affect everyone.
-Tim
I’m a lot a mute reader, however this put up compelled me to data that authentic alone of the right posts I posit unravel.
I cant wait to pay mine off just to get rid of it,never again another toyota
I had all 4 tires replaced and the next day, my tire sensor light went on. I had my tires checked for air pressure and they were all fine. Either my tire sensor needs to be reset or the toyota dealorship broke a tire sensor when they replaced my tire. I’m planning to go back to the dealorship because it was obviously something that they did (the light had never been one before in the 3 years that i’ve owned the vehicle)- what if they deny that they broke it? Is there way of requesting car records on the work they did before I bring up this issue? Any advice? I’m hoping they will be honest, but I also had an issue of the labor costs too which makes me distrust them.
Emily,
Your first step of taking it back to the dealer is the right one. Let them look at it and then diagnose the problem. If they say it broke as to no fault of them, then you can request to speak with a manager and work your way through the dealership until you feel like you got a fair deal. If none of that works, we have many different customer service tip articles on this site to help you take your issue to the next level.
Ultimately, the best resolution is from the dealer level. As you move up, it can create more hassle and stress.
-Tim
Ok, just wanted to update everyone since it was causing me a bit of anxiety over it since it’s the first time i’ve ever had to deal with something like this and the potential cost would’ve been exorbitant. I took the car back to the dealer…even though they didn’t admit to it that they damaged the tire sensor when the tires were put on, they DID take care of it free of charge thank goodness. It really would have been very easy for them to be dishonest and say that it was something I did…and then charged me for parts and labor…but i’m glad they were honest…maybe this depends on the dealership. Anyway, problem solved, and yes…it was solved at the dealership level.
Yippee! Trust me when I say, you saved yourself a lot of anxiety by having them fix it. Sounds like you have a reputable dealer, that is great!
-Tim
I had my power steering belt replaced on 2005 Toyota Echo and the engine light came on . What caused this? The clock is not working on my radio. I have checked fuses and they are not blown. What could be causing this?
We have 2013 toyota highlander that we bought new in Nov. When we go through the car wash the moonroof leaks. Toyota’s solution now is to either wash it by hand or trade it in. We have brought it in at least 8 times to get it fixed.
My Camry 2012 was diagnosed with torque converter failure that Toyota dealer can fix for estimated value of $3500. I have this car for 1 year and 8 month and the car odometer is a little over 64000 miles. The Toyota dealer and representative Toyota corporate customer care line told me in “legal” language on the phone that this repair is my responsibility and not covered under warranty. They mentioned that Toyota will not cover repair expenses because I did not stopped and serviced my car at authorized Toyota Services for every 5000 miles. This is very disappointing for me, however I believe that Toyota should investigate this failure as I see many of them on internet forums. Personally I rate this issue with my car as an early failure that deserve attention from quality and reliability engineers to increase vehicle quality, reliability and customer satisfaction in the future.
I have a 2008 Toyota Highlander. Recently the drivers side air isn’t blowing cold air. The passenger side is fine. Both air temperatures are set at the same temperature?
i have a sequoia 2011
every morning and at 25 km/h speed there is a sound (click) from driver side?
i woulds like to know if it is ABS censor or other thing need to repair
also my 4wd once it is going back to 2 wd a hard sound comming under my legs ?
please help me with this
My FJ’s driver side window goes down, but when I lift the button it does not go up. Just randomly I keep trying and eventually it goes up. And yes my dumb butt keeps forgetting something is wrong and keep rolling it down! Has this happened to anyone and if so what was wrong? Motor? Switch?
Ray,
Sounds like a bad switch to us. Stop by the dealer and get a new one. It is pretty simple to swap out. Just remove the door panel and switch it.
-Tim