All Known 2007 Toyota Tundra Problems
Jason Lancaster | Aug 22, 2007 | Comments 859
Here’s a list of all the known problems with the 2007 Toyota Tundra. We’re not trying to tear the truck down or anything – we love it – we just want to make sure everyone knows what’s going on.
1) 5.7L Camshaft Failures
This is EASILY the most publicized problem with the new Tundra, but we think it was completely been blown out of proportion. Toyota said that this had only happened 20 times. We think it might have been slightly higher than that, but not by much. Since the original news story broke, very little has been heard about any more failures. Many doom sayers predicted the Tundra’s sales would collapse because of this “HUGE” issue, but the Tundra has never sold better. Confidence in Toyota quality remains high, as it should be, and the 5.7 camshaft issue is actually a non-issue.
2) Highway Bed Bounce
This problem is very odd. Because of the specific characteristics of the Tundra’s bed and frame, it is possible to induce a self-amplifying oscillation of the back-end of the truck. Amazingly enough, this can occur at highway speeds as the bed bounces over expansion joints in the roadway. Here’s a video:
Here’s a different video shot on a California highway. At this time, Toyota has not announced a fix. While all trucks exhibit some type of bed bounce on concrete highways with lots of expansion joints, Tundras seem to be worse than normal. Adding weight to the bed and/or a trailer helps, and some other fixes include air suspension and custom leaf springs. The best solution might be to wait and see if Toyota comes up with something official. Finally, if you can drive faster or slower than the harmonic frequency (observed at 55-65 mph) the vibration is vastly reduced. Try using that as an excuse when a cop is writing you a speeding ticket…
3) The stereo shutting off by itself
Of all the problems to have in the world, this one is pretty small. Occasionally, for no apparent reason, a small number of stereos in brand new Tundras have shut off all by themselves. Evidently, this is due to a short in the stereo itself. Toyota is aware of the problem and will replace your stereo as part of the warranty. We’re not 100% sure, but we can’t imagine this problem won’t be fixed in the 2008.
4) One of the air vent’s louvers won’t stay pointed downwards
This problem is actually kind of humorous, so we decided it might be fun to mention. The vent to the right of the driver, due to the effects of air-flow and gravity, has a tendency to creep upwards. In other words, you turn on the A/C, point the vent towards your mid-section, and within a few minutes the louvers have worked themselves upwards so that now the air stream is pointed towards your face. The smartest fix we heard of was to attach a book clip (you know, the black plastic and wire clip) to one of the louvers in such a way to keep it from moving. You could always ask your dealer to fix it, but they would have to remove part of your dash to do so. The book clip seems so much easier.
5) The seatbelt warning chime
A lot of people have complained about the seat belt warning chime. If you take your seat belt off for just a few seconds (say to get out of the truck to get the mail) your warning chime will go off. Also, if you are hauling something in the front passenger seat that weighs more than about 40 lbs, the weight sensor in the passenger seat will think there is a passenger sitting in the seat. If this cargo isn’t buckled in, you’ll get to hear the warning chime. There are lots of solutions to both — check out our article on the Tundra’s annoying seat belt buzzer.
6) Not getting the mileage on the sticker
In our opinion, this issue doesn’t really belong on this list. As long as people buy new vehicles, there will always be some that don’t get the mileage printed on the sticker. First of all, the mileage indicated is an average, meaning half will get more and half will get less. Second, the testing process used to determine those mileage numbers is, well, ridiculous. This isn’t a reflection on Toyota either — the EPA came up with this test nearly 30 years ago. It involves driving VERY slowly with the A/C off and not exceeding 54mph on days ending in “y” with your head cocked at a 17 degree angle…you get the idea. It’s not very applicable to today’s driving. If you’re looking for ways to improve your Tundra’s gas mileage, we wrote about gas mileage earlier this month. But don’t let stories you hear about Tundras getting poor gas mileage scare you off — just know that the mileage printed on the sticker is an estimate.
7) The Tundra is “too nice”
We’ve also heard of new Tundra owners being accused by their relatives (typically domestic truck owning in-laws) of having stuff that was “too nice” and “showing off.” We’re not sure what it is about, but it seems the Tundra gives people the impression that you’re better than them.
Any problems you’ve had that aren’t mentioned here? Tell us about them! We kind of made that last one up btw.
Search terms people used to find this page:
- https://tundraheadquarters com/all-known-2007-toyota-tundra-problems/
- 2007 toyota tundra problems
- 2007 tundra problems
Filed Under: Tundra News • Tundra Recalls • Tundra Videos
Sounds good to me, Im gettin a Titan.
I am going to be honest between the two vehicles…I owned 2 Titans previouse to purchasing a certified used 07 tundra crew max sr5 4×4.Titans are much better built.Inside and out.I like the motor in the Titan and trani.The Titan has a fully boxed frame its a solid chasi and drive train.Where it comes up short is the axles rear end parts are tiny and under built.I twisted the rear axle on the titan with little to no effort.It was tuned a bit but not much.The titans stearing and feel is great.I feel in touch with the rd no vibes and very responcive.The tundra well its nice I like it.Drive train as far as axle gears are beefy.Its got a luxury appeal looks nice and its comfertable.But engine has deisal sound like it will brake bed bounce you can feel every little vibration and for beeing able to tow the space shuttle its frame is not boxed.Only the front where the engine is.It will flex.Interior cheep clip on plastic it rattles center console pops open ect.All in all its nice or nice enouph to go threw it and fix its issues but for the most part between the two models toyota has more pulling power with beefy rear end drives like a truck Titan dont like the styling as much but awsome to drive and very solid and falls short with its week axles.I meen there tacoma small.The titan is a better built truck so to say.
I have had my 5.7 DC since late July. The instrument panel is poorly designed as the too deeply mounted instruments are difficult to read in bright sunlight while wearing sunglasses. The mechanical build quality is very outstanding.
Too Nice? Hmm, haven’t heard any domestic owners say this. I’ve heard people say the F150 King Ranch is “Too Nice”, but not the new Tundra.
Guess to each their own.
Gauges too hard to read in daylight, Nav system is a real pain with always having to turn it on, should shut itself down, and that very bad “diesel” noise for the first 10 mins. Any engine making that much noise will not last. I’m sorry I bought it now because I know I will have trouble down the road with my “diesel”
Not trying to tear it down? Why not. If it has problems, it needs to be torn down. That is the problem with Toyota owners, writers and reviewers. They see a problem and know it is a problem, but since it is a Toyota they tell themselves, “We will just over look this problem and act like it isn’t a problem.”
[…] First, for anyone who doesn’t know about the bed bounce issue, take a look at our post about All Known 2007 Tundra Problems. […]
Two issues, one already mentioned:
1. Even with dash lights full bright, instruments too dark to read in the daytime.
2. Towing mirrors vibrate.
I think the new tundra is a great truck,I have the 4×4 sr5 double cab and the only problems i have had are with the poor quality of the tires.The bridgestone dueler H/T D684 tire is a highway tire that is ranked number 52 out of 60,1 being the best,60 being the worst.I cant believe toyota put this tire on a 4×4. Is anyone else is having the same problem?
I lease an 07 Tundra 4X4 Double Cab and love the truck…until a few weeks ago I looked underneath the truck and saw an oil drip coming from the transfer case. I made an appointment with my dealer and took the truck right in. That was a week ago. Apparently the seal between the engine and transfer case is leaking and the part is on back order. The truck only has approx. 6000 km on it. Needless to say it has not made feel very good about the “All New Toyota Tundra”
I have a Tundra DC 5.7L DC. Rides smooth , heck, everything about is smooth. Pulls better and overall performance blow my previous F-150 5.4L away-(Which blew the #3 spark plug out of the head with only 45K miles). My only gripe is the deep tunnels for the guages-what were they thinking? I have driven washboards and have yet to notice any “bed bounce”. At least the doors don’t feel like they’re unlatched like my F-150 did.
Where is the steering wheel vibration issue, which for the most part is the tire balancing issue! Mine has been in five times, it still has not been repaired!
Not to mention the collateral effects of the vibration.
Right now I can honestly say I would not have purchased the vehicle with the issues that it has. This is my 5th Toyota and the worst one I have had!
I am also extremely disappointed with the level of service that I have recieved, they are doing their best to catch up and surpass the other 3 in there level of service. Not what I expected from Toyota this far.
Had same issue after putting on ceramic brake pads. Problem went away after replacing or turning of the rotors.
I have seen the video clip and the GM truck is worse of all, I was a Ford man until the new Toyota Tundra, bed bounce?? the F 150 I owned was worst and couldnt carry more than 300 pounds of cargo, it felt heavy in the back, going up off road hill’s ( not inclined hill’s just short distance hills )the wheels will spin and I had to use the 4×4, problems with the truck??, rear diff, wipers not working, horn will sound when making turn, the rear lights will fall off, leather seats cracked just 6 months of purchasing, 4×4 all the time will not disingage, had to force it,ah! and the 4×4 knob just came off while forcing to disingage, I had the manual type set up, window motors burnt every 5 months, changed to generics and since then worked fine, not to mention problems with my Ford Ranger, and two Explorers, the last a 2002 Eddie Bauer, let me say the worst purchase I had made, special order and it came with mercury mountaneer steering wheel, electrical problems from the beggining, 4×4 never worked, this one was all electronic, the leather sets also cracked a year and a half later, radio never worked, well considering just a few minor problems with the Tundra, it is my best buy, no issues until now, I keep a 80 pound sand bag and the ride is nice, thinking of getting the water bag, I was a frustated ford man, now I am a happy Toyota man.
I just purchased my 2007 4.7L double cab two weeks ago. I have a problem with an oscillating vibration in the cab of my truck. It is most pronounce between 58 to 65 miles per hour. I
Regarding the oil leak: are you sure it’s the transfer case? There is a TSB for a bad o-ring at the base of the dipstick tube. Mine had the leak; quick fix, no problems in that area since.
Hi…Sorry…I just spoke with the dealer this morning and it is actually a seal in the trans-axle. When they told me what the problem was when I took it in, all I heard was seal and trans…and then was too stunned to hear anything else…sorry for stating the incorrect problem…Also this is the 4.7 not the 5.7…which I thought was the proven engine.
tailgate wont open. drivers side rod comes out of clip. open up tailgate, fix, wiretie to prevent from happening.
my parking sonar stopped working. usually the front, sometimes the rear. dealer ordered a new computer. still waiting to have it put in.
towing mirror vibrates
2007 Crewmax 5.7
I noticed that the bed is not aligned properly to the body.
Took it in to the dealer and checked all the trucks in the lot (over 60)
All the crewmax beds are mis aligned they are mounted more to the left. All the crew max have the same problem, something should be done to correct this issue. Maybe a “bad robot”
Bed Bounce: My Crewmax does it between 70 and 80 MPH. About the same speed and violence level as my ’98 3 door Chevy Silverado did. It has to do with the wheelbase, and the distance between the expansion joints in the road, setting up a sympathetic harmonic resonance with unsprung weight. Most trucks with empty beds do it at different speeds, depending on road expansion joint dimensions in different states and wheelbases of the different trucks. TRD of road packages will exacerbate the issue.
I too am not thrilled with the intensity of daytime gauge lighting. Can’t they give us a brighter bulb? Maybe an LED to solve the issue?
Bed bounce:
The problem with the bed is the weak bed floor itself. exactly where the bed bolts to the frame. Since the new Tundras have a reinforced frame, the frame does not “give” or allow as much flexibility as other pickups. The stifness of the frame kind of “bounces” the bed around. The bed floor and mounting needs to be reinforced. You can actually lift the bed by hand and see it move. By reinforcing the bed and adding more ribs and maybe a thicker gauge steel floor will solve this problem.
You want to complain about a truck, buy a dodge if you want to spend a lot of money on repairs.
I have a 2006 Dodge Dakota, I have NEVER had more issue issues with any vehicle. Dealer is useless. I will never own another Dodge.
I just got a tundra 2007 4×4 TRD SR5. The bed bouncing issue is just terrible in CA 86. What are our recourses, Lemon Law?
I heard about a water bag 150lbs, where can I get it.
The only decent priced 150 lb water bag I could find was $220 (and it was for punching, not hauling).
I’m not sure that I understand – is this to haul around or to put under the leaf? In either case, I’m not sure it makes much sense. 150lbs of sand in the bed would have the same effect, and that might only cost $20. Airbags to help the leafs are available, but they cost quite a bit.
Im having a problem with the tailgate not opening. Not sure how this happened. Is this something i can fix or do i need to take to a toyota dealer? thank you
Last Friday, we installed the TRD Tundra Rear Sway Bar. (www.newtoyotaparts.com) It took us about 40 minutes. Somehow The bed does not bounce as much as it dit before the Sway Bar. It handles great while cornering.
Ray – your tailgate should be checked out by your Toyota dealer. It’s not a terribly complicated system, so if it’s not working something is probably broken.
My blower for the a/c was cycling in and out. The dealer agreed that was a problem for TeXas heat. They had to back order one and was replaced within a week.Now its freezing in the truck so if I go above 2 on the fan setting I’m freezing.The fan vents also travel on me. But I’m getting 23.7 on the highway with the 5.7 v8 and I havent had the bed jumping others are seeing
I was told a lot of trouble with air out of defrost only any recall ?
I recently purchased a 2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7 4×4 and I have a concern with “Transmission Vibration”… There is a distinct and consistent vibration coming from the automatic transmission when shifting from fifth to sixth gears (Or it could be between fourth and fifth gears).. Usually it occurs when I’m driving at a slow gradual speed increase through the gears on a level road. It typically starts at about 33 mph and continues through about 38 mph. It will stop if I take my foot off the gas peddle or push harder on the peddle. This vibration is very noticeable and the whole truck vibrates! It kind of feels like the transmission is stuck trying to decide if it wants to stay in fifth gear or gear up to sixth gear.
Other than that, I absolutely love my truck!
I have a 2007 Tundra with 80K miles. It vibrates at 35 and again at 45 when driving slow. When I accelerate at a high rate of speed, that is accelerate very hard, there is no vibration. It feels like it is vibrating when it shifts at those speeds in with normal acceleration, but not with hard acceleration. What is causing this?
Ken,
Tires most likely. Have you had them checked?
-Tim
The tires have been balanced twice, then rotated front to back, but still vibrates at certain speeds. I have talked to several transmission shops and they all say they don’t have any experience with Tundras because the transmissions are bullet proof. They never have any problems. Two shops have told me it sounds like a torque converter issue. I am taking it in today to have the torque converter looked at.
Ken,
Huh, that’s odd. Although, I found your comments reassuring about the Tundra transmission being “bullet proof.” Let us know what happens.
-Tim
transmission vibration. picked up my new double cab 4×4 sr5 w 4×4 on thursday took it back friday for a transmission vibration at low speed. they are replacing the entire trans and converter.it would shake the whole truck like you were running over rumble strips on the road. i paid 1500 more for toyota than a similar equiped silverado i hope it wasn’t a mistake!
Steve,
I have been trying to find this tranny vibration on my truck.
At what speeds does it happen?
Did you had it in D?
At what gears did you notice the vibration?
On regular streets or highways?
I may not have this problem.
Thanks,
Marco
I also have a vibration like you are running over a rumble strip but it happens at 55 to 65 mph. It is not severe but very annoying at highway speeds. I am taking it to the dealer next Friday for the second time. The first time they replaced two tires but that did not fix the problem.
Have your dealer test the fluid with a Glytech test strip for moisture from the cooler. If the moisture content is more that 6 ppm it will cause this problem. Fix is to replace cooler and hope there is no internal damage to transmission
John — that’s probably a wheel balance issue.
[…] here is some good stuff on the known "issues" with the Tundra including bed bounce. They stated on this site that they e-mailed TOYOTA about the bed bounce issue and Toyota responded by not admitting nor denying the problem. I think based on what I read that is will be something Toyota will be addressing. The website is: tundraheadquarters.com
Admin-I had the wheels balanced and the dealer even replace two tires. My truck has the TRD package with BF Goodrich tires. I spoke to another Tundra owner who has the same truck without the TRD package so has has different tires and rims and he has the same exact problem. It is an oscillating vibration that resonates thoughout the cab. It is going back to the dealer next week so I will keep you posted.
What a shame. I dearly love the new Tundra and am/was a pen swoop away from buying a crew limited. As alot of people have said, you can not ignore the issue with the bed. I guess I will hold off or go with a Sierra 1500 loaded to the gills for 2500 bucks less! People who own Tundras please keep posting issues/non-issues and concerns.
Thanks
Purchased my 2007 (reg cab SB 4X4 5.7) on Aug 2. I now have 3000 miles on it. I have not had any problems. Truck is smooth and powerful. I dont have the bed bounce issue or vibrations. Fuel mileage 14/18. Seems to be right on what the sticker says. I would like to mention that the 18mpg on highway is at about 65mph. The 5.7 seems to drink a considerable amount of fuel if you run it at 80 or above (16 mph and worse).
I am 6′ 3″ tall and can not get in and out the Tundra with out hitting my head on the cab opening. And what is the reason for a 26 gal fule tank in a Truck made for towing? I hope the next Tundra is built right, Toyoto should lisen to the Truck buyers.
You are a nut case…I am 6′ 7″ inches and have no problem getting in without bumping my head….I have a 2007 crew max. My brother has a 1997 tundra extended cab and has no problem getting in as well….he is 6′ 5″….all in all….you are full of crap.
If the guy is always hitting his head he must be a moron
maybe pay attention to where your big melon is and quit hitting it on your truck, moron
I had a similar vibration,bed bounce,wheel hop.. in my 2001 Tundra Limited TRD. Bothered me for the better part of 6 years. I put a set of the new bridgestone dueler Revos on and the problem went away. Truck runs smooth at all speeds.
The first time I closed the tailgate on my 07 tundra, the support cable got pinched between the gate and the taillight lens cracking it. Why is the tail light lens flush with the edge of the bed if this is an “industial” use truck
07 tundra with 600kms on it I started it in park and it rolled forward , I had no transmission at all and the 4 lo light was flashing , i switched it from 2wd to 4 hi and 4 lo and still had a bunch of neturals , restarted the truck same same.. after about 5 minutes the 4 lo light quit flashing and it seams ok. i will have it towed to Toyota tomorrow , has anyone else had this?
tim
tmcpherson@cogeco.ca
I own a 2007 Tundra 5.7 Limited Crewmax 4×4 with the TRD Package. It was the featured vehicle on this website on August 30th and I’m glad to say that I have none of the problems everyone else are describing. I also know about 30 other 2007 Tundra owners with all different configurations and the only thing a hand full of them have complained about is the AC vent to the right of the instrument cluster loosing position and one with the driveshaft seal leak. Most of these guys have changed over from the other Big 3 (GM,Ford and Dodge)and they can’t believe the difference in ride and quality. I also know that Toyota has never left their customers or like I like to refer to myself, “A FAN” high and dry with their purchase. Toyota has reached their level of satisfaction and known quality by stepping up to the pump and correcting any flaws that are truly flaws. I have owned using my toes and fingers 13 to be exact, Toyotas in my lifetime for that reason, “taking care of theirs customers!” I also know that my 13th Toyota being a 2007 Tundra does not fit into the typical association of the unlucky 13 scenario. It has been the best Toyota I have ever owned and the finest to drive. All I can say is that I have seen Toyota do things after the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty and the 5/60 drivetain warranty has expired that no other car maker would ever consider doing for their customers or product in the name of quality and more importantly customer satisfaction. For example, replacing an engine on my 1999 Camry with 200,000 plus miles for no charge If the only problems this new Tundra ever faces are the one desribed, I will take them after hearing true horror stories from GM, Ford and Dodge owners and how some of them were left holding the bag. Look what Ford did with the 6.0 Diesel for their customers to correct their problems, they redesigned the engine and came out with the 6.4 that still has it share of problems. What did Ford do for the 6.0 owners— Nothing!!!! I’m glad I own a Toyota and have Toyota standing in my corner.
I have a new Tundra, 5.7L, dbl cab, 4×4. I noticed that while i gradually increase my speed passing through 35 mph (+/-2), the center of the truck shakes. I’m thinking its either a transmission problem or a drive-shaft malfunction. Any similar problems or ideas on whats wrong? I have an appt tomorrow morning to have it looked at.
nachy valledor: Have you read the reviews? Driven an ’07 Silverado or F150? You’d notice by the reviews and actually driving (I’ve driven all 3) that the Tundra actualy has the worst ride quality of the group, with or without the TRD pkg.
You’ve owned 13 Toyota’s, great so you’re a die hard fan. Doesn’t prove they are better than any of the domestics. Just your opinion.
I have a very hard time believing “ANY” automaker would replace a motor at over 200K miles, unless it was under a recall. Just my opinion, but I’d call this BS.
Having a dealer fix your auto outside the 3/36 or 5/60 is not Toyota doing the work, the dealer is footing the bill. I’ve had domestic dealers do the same, but it doesn’t mean the automaker payed, but was the dealer.
Ford 6.0 was a problematic Navistar motor. Yes it was in a Ford, but none of the problems were Ford manufactured parts. Ford requested Navistar fix the issue and they developed the 6.4L, which hasn’t had any issues to date other than the DPF dumping too much fuel down the exhaust. Has been a quick easy fix that’s not costly.
You act like there have never been Toy recalls (engine sludge, cruise control, suspension, etc…). I’m not saying the domestics don’t have their own problems, cause they do, but please don’t come across as if Toyota always does what’s right, domestics do what’s wrong, Toyota’s never have issues, but domestics always do. Clearly that is not the case.
Are you serious!! All the ford 6.0 problems came to just that one thing? Yah I would re think that comment!! If thats the case than I think I’ll just go out and do this one easy fix too all of those ford 6.o’s dealers wont even take in on trade!!!! I have the right to say as I please about ford’s only because I own a 2002 powerstroke and it seems like it either one thing or another with them. Ive hade to put three transmissons in mine and it just turnned 100k. At 4000.00 apiece!! Yah! so I have a great engine but what good is it if you cant get it to the ground? Guess what was running when I figured my snowmobileing trip was over? My grandpas tundra!! And it actually pulled it better!! Power to spare!!!! My only complaint is the suspension was a little soft but lets face it I had to put bags on my ford too!! I cant tell you how many thing I have had to fix myself on my ford. All of which before the 100,000 mile mark. And as for the whole 200’000 mile engine replacement I personally know its true because I had a 93 4runner with 190,000 and it had the leaky head gaskets so guess what new engine for me!!! And it was a dream come true because I was a new father at the time. I dont own a tundra but I would in a heart beat! My for is paid off and it sits till the snow fly’s But if I had to use it for a work commuter it would have been gone a long time ago!! Oh yah my commuter is yes japinese A 1991 accord with 260’000 all original!! yah Ive got a bunch of 6.0’s for yah!!!
Hey Justin, I’m just looking over some old posts and did want to let you know that Toyota does and will come big on products that fail, far after warranty periods. I’m only my 3rd Toyota truck now …. since 1983 (yup 3 trucks since 83) My 83 4×4 was traded on my 98 Tacoma and had 475,000 miles on it and still didn’t burn oil. My 98 Tacoma, unfortunately succumbed to a Frame Corrosion issue that Toyota had for several model years. In 2009, when the truck was 11 years old and with 285,000 on it, Toyota bought it back off of me for $20,250 (150% x the Best Black Book Value). I bought a 03 Tundra Limited (Leather and Loaded) for 17,500 the next day. I came out with 3 grand to the good and with a 5 year Newer, Bigger and much more luxurious truck. I think Toyota took care of me and ten’s of thousands of other owners on this defect Very, Very adequately. I’m pretty sure the “Big 3” can’t share any of that type commitment
you can keep your fords and chevs and I will blow passed you in my tundra empty or loaded and always be where Im supposed to be at the exact time I say. I may stop to give you a tow to the nearest shop when your truck breaks down but I may not cause you didnt buy a toyota in the first place so thats your own damn fault
Found the problem! Passing through 35 mph (+/-2), my tundra would vibrate. Turned out it was a misaligned driveshaft that took about 30 minutes to fix. Runs like a champ now. BTW: I stopped buying Fords, not because of the quality, but because they treat their customers like crap. I probably would have received great service at the dealership where I purchased it, but I move a lot and I found three mid-west to southern dealers who cared little for the problems I had. Three fords w/poor service on all. Too bad. I’m a Toyota fan now.
Justin
First of all I respect your opinions because hopefully they are based off of real life experiences. Do you own a Tundra or any other Toyota Product where you can compare your ownership experiences apples to apples? I didn’t want to air out all of my dirty laundry but for reasons of clarification of my opinions I will.
My personal opinions and thoughts are based off of real life experiences that I have had with my Toyota Products compared to my past and present experiences with my Ford Products that I
My 2007 Toyota Tundra tailgate snapped and buckled when transporting an extended load. Maybe I’m a fool, but we’ve done this repeatedly in an 2003 DodgeRam. We needed to transport some sixteen foot pieces of masonite siding to a jobsite. To support it, we placed a 2″ X 8″ X 16′ board out the back.We secured it to the bed and than secured the load on top of it. When I was within a block of the jobsite, I went over a dip and heard this loud cracking sound. Upon inspection, we saw that the steel weld on the top right side of the tailgate had split and the outer sheet metal/skin on the top right corner had buckled. I was shocked and dissappointed to say the least, the truck had only 500 mile on it. Toyota of course says they’re not responsible for it. The biggest laugh was when the service manager told me that when you have an extended load you are suppose to remove the tailgate!!!!! Has anyone ever done that? Ever carry 4′ X 8′ pieces of rock with a 6′(and some odd inches) bed with the tailgate off? Thanks for your feedback. Paul, Owner of Paolino Painting LLC, Serving the Dallas area in high end residential painting since 1986.
cant blame the truck for you being an idiot
So what’s up with the transmission shifting problems / vibrations mentioned by several folks? As noted by others, I’ve experienced the vibration during very gradual acceleration with the transmission wanting to shift from sixth to fifth. Its almost like the tranny is shifting quickly between gears before finally selecting the one it wants. Letting up on the gas or accelerating more makes the problem go away. I have not experienced this while shifting manually. Why does this problem not appear on the “all known problems” list? It should be something Toyota is trying to fix.
nachy valledor: Thanks for the response. I appreciate your opinion and sorry to hear about your horror stories with the Ford products.
I’ve owned F150’s, Rangers and 1 Explorer, as well as 3 Nissans in my time. Never experienced any extreme or costly issues with the F150’s or Rangers, but will admit the Explorer was a problem child and money pit. The Nissans have done me well over the years and still own 2 of them including 1 F150 & 1 Ranger.
I will admit the 90’s Ford Auto Trans. were notorious for problems, not only in the TBird either. I personally have never owned a toyota, but have driven some and known family memebers, coworkers and friends that have. Some love them, some don’t. Some have had huge repairs early in the vehicles life, some have never done much other than your typical fluid and filter changes. Now I also have some relatives & friends that work in the construction business, and they swear they
Justin,
We can sit here all day and swap our opinions and experiences, all of our automotive facts and technicals. But you know, I don’t need to preach my feelings or hundreds of thousands of other Toyota owners feelings about the Toyota product. Toyota is just doing find on their own without me. Just look at their sales compared to every other car maker worldwide and that alone speaks what I have been pitching. Like I said earlier, Man you
After owning my Tundra for 2 months and 1300 miles, I cant imagine why other owners are not screaming their heads off over the poorly displayed instruments which are illegible in bright light. At best in sunlight shadows are thrown accross the instruments because they are so deeply recessed. What kind of an automotive design background did the instrument people have? Chinese toys?
Nachy Valledor: I’m not trying to discredit Toyota in any fashion, they make some wonderful automobiles. I’m also not saying one make is better than another, each have their niche market and appeal to particular demographics.
Again I do appreciate your opinion and feedback on your experience with Toyota products vs. domestics. It provides great insight. Never meant for it to turn into an arguement or debate, just like to get peoples thoughts on why they prefer one make over another. Myself, I’ve had great experience with Nissan cars and Ford trucks, and why I continue to purchase them. You’ve had some poor quality issues with domestics that have turned you away, which is completely understandable. So thank you for expressing your feelings and like we’ve both said, to each their own.
Paul Paolino,
I have similar problem with my tailgate.I loaded my golf cart that we use for hunting like i’ve done with all my other trucks.It riped the weld on both sides and buckled outer skin. I went to 2 dealers They contacted toyota and toyota said I should have removed tailgate.Iv’e never done that the wheels sit on part of tailgate.Toyota needs to admit that the tailgate is not designed correctly.I weight about 180 pounds if I stand on tailgate I can bend the inner panel i’m very disapponted mike
I have a 07 crewmax and have a line-x bed spray. I’ve put about 300 pounds on the tailgate and no problems or bending.
Paul & Mike: As I’ve stated in previous posts, you can tell some of the Tundra sheet metal is thinner than most makes and the excuse to remove the tailgate, is just that, an excuse. I’ve never experienced this issue with a truck before. I’m unsure why such thin sheet metal was used, but I’d assume it has to do with cost and/or to save weight.
Just my toughts.
viberation!!!!!! I am having the same problem and the dealer does not believe me!!!!! ERrrrrrrrr. I am going for a road test with the dealer so they can feel the problem. How can they resolve this any idears? I have a 2007 toyota tundra 4X4 sr5 crewmax blk
Engine noise…. I have a 2007 double cab with the 5.7 engine and 2000 miles. At start up after 10-12 hours of sitting,this engine sounds like a mini diesel, under acceleration for the first 2-3 miles, or until it warms up. Not only is it embarrasing to hear, but how long can this engine last? Any info from Toyota on this yet?
To all you Toyota Owners out there that are complaining of the dumb stupid little things. I tailgate will bounce anytime you hit a pot hole. A freeway doesnt have holes. I bet not even one off you guys have taken your trucj off-roading at the speed as shows in the video. As far as oil leeking learn first how to brake in an egine. Then to those who complain of AC, Navigation and that you Cant see your gages. Your answers are open the windows. First off all learn how to read a map and know where your going before you go. And the gages thing wear glasses. And as long as you know how fast your going well thats all you need. The 07 Tundra is the Best truck out there. Theres no competition that could match it so stop hating. This is a real truck and if you can’t handle it then drive your wifes mini van. Cus the 07 tundra is a truck for a man with (Cajones) Not a man that complains. So once again just stop hating on Toyota. They tried to make you a great truck. And all you do to repay is cry about little things. Your ALL A BUNCH OF WINERS.
Jose,
It is ok to like your tuck. This forum is importand because it will help solve some obvious issues with the new Tundra. You will soon realize that any new model Tundra is going to be upgraded and perfected thanks to us “winers” as you call us.
Oil leak has nothing to do with “break in” Oil leak is a seal or gasket issue not a break in issue.
I have taken my Crewmax off road, I have driven it at 110 MPH, I have gone on bumps. The reason I post my comments is because I know about trucks especially Toyota trucks from T-100, Tacoma, Tundra, Land Cruiser and all. I never had issues like I have with the 07 model.
I traded-in my 2006 Tundra TRD 4X4 SR5 to buy the 07 Crewmax. The difference is that my 06 was PERFECT! no issues whatsoever …a dream truck. The issues we have has nothing to do with “Cajones” Yes you can live with your truck the way it is because you don’t want to admit the problems. The guys with the “Cajones” is us… because we are out there to better this truck with our comments. Believe me that the 2008/09 model is NOT going to have all these issues thanks to us Winers.
Jose: People obviously have issues and it’s their right to express them. You may be willing to live with the truck, but many believe for the price you pay and being a Toyota, you shouldn’t have to deal with some of these minor R&D issues.
Freeway doesn’t have potholes? Guess you don’t live in an area that gets snow, as us in Colorado and the Mountain states are familiar with potholes on all road types.
Off-Roading, most may not have done this yet, but shouldn’t this truck be able to withstand the pounding of this type of driving? Most 1/2 trucks can, and if this truck can’t hold up brand new, what’s it gonna be like after a few years of abuse?
Oil leak and breaking in an engine? As T. Sgarbi stated, these two many not even be related. Also, an oil leak is not a “Stupid little issue” to most.
Open the windows? So when it’s 100+ out in Phoenix and you paid for AC, you’re just gonna open a window?
I’m not a Navigation system person, but if someone paid for it, shouldn’t it work? At least when it’s still less than a year old?
Why should you have to wear glasses to read your gauges? This is an R&D issue that can and will be corrected easily. It’s not all about knowing your speed; this is why you have oil, temp, fuel and voltage gauges. Who cares about knowing how fast you’re going if the engine starts to overheat or if you’re low on oil. Common sense my friend.
No one stated the Tundra wasn’t the best truck or were hating, just stressing their opinions on flaws that need corrected. Otherwise they may completely love the truck. I’m not a Tundra owner or even like the Tundra, but people have their right to voice their opinion on issues that have come about. This will only make the truck better in the long run.
Lastly, who cares about cajones when your tailgate is bent/bending, bed is hitting the cab, having an oil leak, AC won’t work, tranny is vibrating and you can’t read your gauges. Oh yeah, you can still go fast, which seems like the only thing about this truck that matters to you. Get a grip.
Justin,
You speak my language my man!
Nicely said and to the point.
T. Sgarbi: Thanks & the same to you. Everyone has just stated their experiences, good and bad. They want to forewarn people of issues they’ve had and to give Toyota ideas on areas needing attention. Never seen anyone completely bash the truck, as it sounds really well built, with the exception of a few issues. Everyone just has to keep in mind, no matter who makes the vehicle, Domestic or Import, truck or car, the 1st model year is always going to have its issues and by the 3rd model year these bugs are usually gone. So the people here telling of their issues are the ones that help Toyota make their product even better. These 1st model year owners are usually the guinea pigs, testing the truck out and informing Toyota what issues they
Joe G: I’ve got 400 miles on an ’07 Tundra double cab, 4.7L w/TRD Pkg. I’ve noticed that there is a dull thud in the drivetrain when taking off from a deal stop. I have even noticed this dull thud when coming to a stop and the momentum of the truck changes from going forward to stopping at rest. Took the truck to the dealer today and was told that thud was noticed but “normal” for Tundras’ and Tacos’. I just traded in an ’07 DC with the same enging and TRD Pkg. The truck had 8,600 miles on it and the drivetrain was smooth as silk. I also drove 2 other new Tundras’ before I ordered mine. Neither of the other ’07’s had any thud in the drivetrain. I’m very disappointed I traded in my ’06 for what I thought was a better truck. Anyone else experience my problems?
I bought my 07 crewmax a year ago and I have the same drivetrain thud. Feels like something is sliding forwards or backwards to me. Dealer said it was normal also. No problems yet so I don’t know how to stop it. You have any luck?
i just bought a 07 doublecab with 5.7 no trd package. i also have a vibration in D when it goes into 5th or 6th gear at slow speeds it vibrates the whole truck!!!
if i have it in s and shift it manually no problem at all.
i am going to the dealer in a couple days to have it looked at.
it seems to just be shifting into 5th or 6th way to soon.
as long as i give it gas or ley up it goes away as soon as it downshifts
Well you guys answered all my questions on this truck,I thought only ford,chevy and dodge had these problems.
I looked at the tundra this season took it for a test run.It’s powerful & bad.
I am very impressed with the power more than anything.
I own a 1999 f-150 and bought it new with no major problems so far.
It still runs strong and I love it.
Ford F-150 4×4 Lariat is just a better lookin truck overall (just my opinion),it doesn’t have 380 horses under the hood but theres something about buying a tundra that is holding me back,besides all the plastic and the high sticker price.
I’m just glad to hear tundra has problem like ford.
so i’ve had my 2007 limited tundra for about two months now and was very happy with it. then i noticed that the seatbelt buzzer didn’t go off as quickly as it should have one day. took about 3 min for it to chime like it usually does. didn’t really think anything of it. so two days ago im driving home on the freeway and i notice that my speedometer going dead to zero….what the hell?? for the next 70 miles all my guages failed except the gas gauge. the temp guage quit working, the odometer quit logging miles, the brake light stayed on, so did the abs light and the airbag light. when the guages did come back to life, a different set of warning lights were on, the traction light constantly blinked and a couple of other lights came on with it. finally i hit a bump in the road and the speedometer stayed on with an array of warning lights. so i finally get home and shut the truck down and restart it…everything went back to normal..until the next day when it did the same thing. the third day came and the electronic steering adjustment would not move into it’s normal posistion when i shut the truck down, and of course the aformentioned problem! i am desperately trying to get it in to the dealer this week so they can find out what the hell is wrong with my $44000 truck. not knowing how fast you are going or anything else is giving me an ulcer to put it kindly. would love to hear any theories you people might have to the cause of this problem…and ill be sure to post my findings after i take her into the dealership. thanks for your input.
I just bought a new ’07 Tundra Limited.
I see that it is ready for XM Radio but Toyota dealer wants qite a bit to install it. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
I purchased an 07 Tundra 5.7 V8 Dbl Cab in July. The driver side seat belt tension is way too tight. Dealer replaced it, but the problem persists. Anyone else having this problem? I contacted Toyota, but they say that no one has complained about this issue.
I also noticed the dashboard lights are very dim, especially in the daytime which makes the radio and clock info almost impossible to read. Thanks!
i talked to dlr about my vibration in d
at low speeds, they said they are aware of problem but no fix at this time.
i love the truck it is unbeleivable no other problems at all. well built
Mike Y, here’s a response to your comment from another reader:
“Seatbelt tensioners are all the same you may have the seat raised too high.
As for the dashboard light check the dimmer control and turn it to max. Turn off your driving lights during the day.”
Seatbelt tension isn’t adjustable as far as we know…maybe you should ask for an extender? Maybe adjust seat height and/or seat belt position using adjustment on b-pillar. No other ideas really…
Addional tailgate information. I removed the protective tailgate guard which sets atop the tailgate when it is closed or in the upright position. I discoverd in part why my tailgate snapped and bent when transporting an extended load. Once the guard is removed, you will notice two signifcant things. First, there is literaly a ‘space’ between the wrapped around sheetmetal and the back side/panel/bed of the tailgate. In the middle it is joined or welded on the corners it is not. For about 3 inches on each side of the tailgate THERE IS NO WELD BUT LITERALLY A SPACE THICKER THAN A CREDIT CARD. I WAS ABLE TO CREATE MOVEMENT BY APPLYING PRESSURE WITH MY THUMBS!! Yes, this is exactly where my tailgate snapped and bent – no weld!!! Secondly, the guard is inserted into a series of ‘holes’ which run along the top edge of the tailgate. Every 5 or 6 inches or so they punched holes in the top edge of the sheet metal as to recieve the fastners of the protective guard. These ‘punch outs’ weaken the edge of the tailgate. What’s the point? Don’t extended anything beyond the point of that tailgate edge or your inviting trouble. I will be forwarding photo’s and comments of this to the Attorney Generals office in the State of Texas where the truck is built. This is simply an under engineered tailgate for a truck which is marketed as a tough, bad *%# truck.
Dim interior lights. I have put my dimmer switch on max and run the truck without any other lights on and this does not correct the problem. This is a legitmate problem that they need to fix. It shouldn’t be in a 10K dollar vehicle or a 50K vehicle. It’s a mistake that needs to be corrected by Toyota.
Positives: the brakes are excellent, the ride is good, much better than my Dodge and I am getting 16.5 to 17 mpg around town with my 6 cyclinder. I’m pleased with that. Appearance? This is a bold, good looking and impressive truck. They have accomplished what Dodge did when they redesigned the Ram. Bold, unique and impressive. Later…
Paul
Paul — good comments. Hopefully Toyota will upgrade the materials used in the tailgate.
As an aside, do you think they came up with a lightweight design to make the tailgate assist work better?
Adim:
I don’t know if thats why they made the tailgate so light. Logically it would help the tailgate ‘assist system’ because it would minimize the gravitational pull on a heavier gate.
Some thoughts: even if its a light weight tailgate, wrap and weld the sheet metal from one end of gate to the other. Why leave gaps on both ends? Secondly, I’d rather have a heavy, durable tailgate to work off of and to haul extended loads with, rather than some sissy assist tailgate system. It’s a nice thought and feature but if I had to chose between the two, its no contest; give me a functional, durable tailgate. Period. Lastly, it just doesn’t square with the ‘image’ that is portrayed in their advertizing campaign. Isn’t THE TRUCK presented as the biggest, badest, best truck ever made? Built in Texas for Texans etc. (I’m originally from Jersey by the way.)I never gave it a second thought that it couldn’t handle a load that my Dodge has handle for years. That mis-step will cost me a thousand bucks (if I have it repaired). My hope is that my comments will spare others my misfortune. It’s just not a very pleasant experience to have to spend a thousand bucks for repairs on a new truck, with less than 500 miles on it!!! Fortunately, I know there are more important things in life at age 52. If I was 22 I’d be….probably in trouble by now…. Later.
I just bought a new 2007 Tundra DC with the 5.7. I have about 450 miles on it. The vehicle has a definite vibration when shifting down from 6th to 5th especially under a load like going up a hill and not having my foot in it. There is about a 3 second period of vibration and it down shifts. It seems ok on the level or going up hill when I am giving a resonable amount of of gas. I have an appointment at the dealer. When I asked the service manager if he was aware of any other 2007 Tundras with trans. issues he said he had not heard of any. He obviously does not get on the internet. I think I am in trouble. Other than that I like the truck.
I have the Vibration Issue.
Mine is a 5.7L RC 4WD Longbox stock everything with 615 miles on it. This is almost as plain jane as you can get with thiere trucks. I can repeat it. I drive in “D” all the time. It Only happens between 30-45mph and only while excelerating moderately. Doesnt matter if the AC is on or not. The vibration is the same at 30 as it is at 40mph.
This is certainly not a tire issue since the vibration would be faster at the higher speed. I havent been over 50mph yet to see if it does it in higher range.
It does chug a little like a stick in to low of a gear. Heading back to the dealer tomorrow to get a case opened on it in case a warrenty/recall issue is required.
Someone on another site said there may be an issue with the torque converter or drive shaft alignement on some trucks. The first time it happned, it felt exactly like driving over a rumble strip.
That was at about 150 miles (and I’ve driven like a granny since I got it), but it still happens now
and then.
I think there are enough people with this issue to warrent a letter to Toyota from the group here. Cudos to DALE S for getting a statement that Toyota is aware of the issue (got it in writing?) I’d like to know what the stance is on this issue. I mean, if the power train is going to have issues down the road and its known in the first 150 miles, thats really going to affect resale value and I may want to trade it off before it becomes to well known.
People that have posted on this thread/page with the vibration issue:
John Weidow
Steve Perry
Glenn
Dave
Steve
Mark Wootan
Rick
Jeff
dale s
Pete
Anyone else?
Drop me a line (same user name) at other Tundra sites. I’ll start collecting VINs if I have to.
I also have a serious vibration when tranny upshifts or downshifts and also vibrates while slowing down.
Has anyone seen this:
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/21324818/
no i dont have it in writing.
but now i will. ill keep u posted.
i have 800 miles on it now and i cant make it do it.
i am trying where it would do it all the time but nothing? HHmmmmmm.
im going for a ride now.
My 2007 Tundra makes a whistling noise even with all the windows shut and radio off could it be air going through the window seals I have not tried hearing I don’t hear it when it is not moving maybe the gaskets are not sealed right with the windows.
Yep, I tried on the way home tonight to repeat it also and its all but gone now. I’ve got 650 miles so far. Still get a slight vibration, but with the roads around here, it could be easily denied on a road test if you dont know what to look for. I’m praying for a TSB.
hi folks
well i have 900 miles and now no vibration at all.
i will be letting my wife drive it over the weekend, it did it more when she drove it lol she is a little lighter on the pedal. i spent all day yesterday driving around to try and make it do it.
wow this vehicle is awsome, i like it the more i drive it. ill keep trying
Sounds like this drivetrain vibration occurs while the system is trying to reprogram itself to a drivers habits/characteristics. Maybe it’s just a break in period issue. Thanks for the feedback everyone, keep us posted on this issue.
Well, I finally got an answer from the service rep at my dealer regarding the diesel noise on my 2007 DC with 5.7 He said that this is NORMAL. The pistons are a little undersized and after they warm up, they expand and quiet down. Nothing to worry about. What’s interesting is that it took more than 2 weeks to find out this is NORMAL. If it’s NORMAL, the rep should have known it right off. I only wish I had purchased a Tundra that was ABNORMAL. Other than the diesel sound, it’s a great truck
Robert,
I have the same noise on my Crewmax. It is not as loud as you described but it is annoying. Being a mechanical engineer and knowing about engines extensively, this noise is not piston related, it is the crankshaft! Pistons cannot be undersized. It is the piston rings that make the seal with the cylinder and not the piston itself. The noise you hear is NOT NORMAL it will get worse with time but the warranty will cover it. Depends how patient and tolerant you are in putting-up with the diesel noise.
My old Chevy started making the same noise when it had 134,000 miles.
For a new Toyota that is unacceptable
Regarding the transmission shifting vibration problem, for what its worth my truck quit vibrating during sixth to fifth shifting about the 600 mile mark; I can’t recall it happening since then and I now have 966 miles. Looks like a few others have noticed the problem disappearing with increased mileage as well.
T Scarbi,
As is mentionioned in my original comment dated Oct. 3, the diesel noise is after cold engine start up, under power for the first 3-4 miles, or until the engine warms up. After that, all is quiet. It is still very annoying and shouldn’t be there on a new engine. After the service rep explained the reason for the noise, I said it sounds like piston slap, and he agreed.
I just got my 2007 Tundra 5.7 crewmax, with only 150 miles i felt the vibration when driving slow. I just got the truck on the 13th of october have not had the truck a week and the truck already had 400 miles and I felt it this morning driving to work. I got rid of my 05 chevy silverado, cause it was giving me to many problems, I got a brand new truck and I already have problems with it…..I’m taking it to the dealership next week so they can look at it. I’ve heard is the transmission, the driveshaft, tires, and the camshaft. Does anyone have any suggestion on what it could really be….???
thanks..
Robert,
There should be no piston slap on that engine. All these engines are made the same way. Some will have defective parts.
My car has the same noise. You start the engine and the noise is there. once you drive it for 3-4 miles or minutes it slowly goes away. That is the crankshaft! When the oil pressures build up and the metal expands the noise goes away. On my old car I solved some of the noise problem by adding a more viscous oil (thicker oil). Piston slap does not go away. Just like diesel engine….it keeps making noise this is to compensate for the enormous pressures involved in igniting the diesel fuel (ignites under extreme pressure) this is the reason diesel engines have more torque.
I will take mine in next week and will post the “excuse” they will give me.
T. Sgarbi: True the warranty will cover this crankshaft issue, but only if it’s resolved within the warranty period. And if it gets worse with time, who knows when the problem may actually arise or become a huge issue.
Couple questions to think about. What about people who purchase these trucks used in a few years once they are out of warranty? Of course the sound would deter me if it sound like that upon start up during my test drive.
Toyota is claiming this is “Normal”, so what if people start having more severe issues outside the warranty period?
Will Toyota extended the warranty then?
Or will Toyota eventually issue a recall?
Justin.
Even though some of us are having this noise issue, does not mean all tundras have this problem.
Depending on the percentage of claims there may be a recall.
When the noise becomes louder they may decide to give you a new engine.
They may also extend the warranty just like BMW did with their 745Li models.
At time of purchase I bought extended warranty to 100K.
The noise level or any other major issue should manifest way before the original 35K warranty or 50k warranty that came with your truck.
Unfortunately right now all you can do is wait and learn to live with it. Maks sure to go to the dealer regularly and complain at every oil change intervals. Ask them to note the esevice records regarding this noise.
T. Sgarbi: From what I can gather, it’s only the 5.7L V8 that is having this noise issue.
If the numbers are big enough and doesn’t only effect the 1st model year, maybe toyota will do a recall similar to that when they had the engine sludge issues.
Only time will tell.
I have a 2007 Crewmax Limited, The only problem I came across with my Tundra since July is the AC vent. Mines is the opposite. I set the vent to my face and it drops to my chest. I haven’t felt or saw the bed bounce on my Tundra. As far as the gauges go the illumination is fine with me but you can’t call the water, oil pressure “Gauges”. How will I know what my actual water running temp will be, or what my oil pressure is? That’s my only gripe it’s little to compare with the 06 Silverado and 03 F-150 I had. Having the 06 Silverado was my worst nightmare. After 2 weeks of owning it, I notice the headliner coming down on all 4 doors of the EXT Cab. By the way after replacing the headliner 7x and losing to arbitration on the lemon law, being accused by the factory REP for pulling down my headliner. Also GM was selling these trucks on the lot with same problem brand new…Sales manager states it’s not defrauding the public when they don’t tell anyone buying one that has that problem that they have a warranty that will replace the headliner with another defective headliner. No recall because it’s not a safety problem. Had the brakes worked on 2x for vibration in the back of truck when applying brakes. Not to mention it cost $100 for the first time and $200 for the second time. Vibration came back. Only had truck 15 months. It was an LT3 their so called best with all the gizmo’s. Needless to say they asked me if I owned another GM crap. I had to tell them they couldn’t fix the truck I got now why own another GM crap. F-150 10x to fix the computer problem it had kept giving the same codes for a bad sensor. I had to get rid of it when Enterprise car rental knew me by name when I came in and guessed the same problem. I can live with a vent problem STRESS FREE….
I HAVE THAT SAME PROBLEM ON MY CREWMAX WERE THE VENT GOES DOWN I WILL TAKE IT TO THE DEALER TO GET THAT FIXED. IT IS NOT A BIG DEAL BUT FOR 45,000 ON A TRUCK EVERYTHING BETTER BE WORKING THE WAY IT SHOULD WITH NO DEFECTS OR ELSE THEY NEED TO FIX IT. ALSO WHAT SUCKS IS THAT IT HAS NO LIGHTING ON THE BUTTONS ON THE DOORS FOR THE WINDOWS OT THE LOCKS. ALSO NO LIGHTING ON THE MIRROR BUTTON TO CLOSE THEM IN AND THE BUTTON NEXT TO IT TO MOVE THE MIRORS THE L/R AND THE ARROW BUTTON. ALSO WITH THE GLARE OF THE SUN YOU CAN’T EVEN READ WHAT TIME IT IS OR EVEN SEE WHAT IT SAYS ON THE RADIO BAD CHOICE OF LOCATION I GUESS. OTHER THAN THAT NO OTHER PROBLEMS SO FAR HAVE 4,000 MILES ON IT I LOVE IT.
Since proper test engineering on the 07 Tundra was not conducted or completed, those of us first year owners that are suffering through these problems should be compensated as test engineers for our patience and disapointments. These disapointments are totally unexpected from Toyota. Answers and solutions are very slow in coming. Just because other truck manufacturers have displayed poor quality performance does not mean that we should accept the same even if its to a lesser degree from Toyota.
R. W. Lightner: Just curious:
How do you know proper engineering testing wasn’t completed?
Where do you get the data that states “Just because other truck manufacturers have displayed poor quality performance”?
Seems to me, by all accounts and reports, the Tundra was delayed to ensure proper testing had been completed. Also, in the truck market, Toyota has not always been the best, but not always the worst in “Quality Performance”. So saying it’s expected from other makes but not Toyota is simply a biased statement.
TOYOTA TUNDRA TRUCKS COULD HAVE BEEN NEAR PERFECT IF MORE TESTING WERE INVOLVED CAUSE SOME OF THE THINGS WRONG WITH IT ARE SO MINOR WHY IS IT THAT THEY DID NOT GET THOSE THINGS FIXED CAUSE I KNOW IT WAS NOT AN ERROR THEY JUST DID NOT WANT TO DO IT RIGHT TO BEGIN WITH I AM NOT NO ENGINEER OR NOTHING AND I NOTICES A LOT OF FACTORY DEFECTS OR ERGONOMIC PROBLEMS WITH IT WHAT THE HELL $45,000 FOR ANNOYING SMALL PROBLEMS THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN FIXED OR MADE BETTER IT’S SAD.
Yes the Tundra COULD have been a near perfect truck, but can’t you also say this about many of the vehicles on the road today? Evidently Toyota felt the truck was well enough designed that it should be released. Ergonomics, well that depends on the driver. Some may like, some may not.
My major concern is, if the Tundra has so many minor issues so soon, what potential major issues may develop down the road. With all the cars & trucks I’ve owned, I’ve found that the vehicles with many minor issues usually end up needing major work later in its life. Could be it was a lemon, or bad R&D by the engineer or a multitude of issues, but they still needed more work than the vehicles with very few minor flaws.
This is why I will never own a 1st model year vechile. Like the manufacturer to work out the bugs and conduct more R&D on the vehicle prior to me speding my $$$ on a vehicle. Most the current Tundra owners should be considered Guine Pigs, as they’re conducting a lot of the research Toyota would have to spend money on. Sure Toyota may have to fix a few, costing them some money anyways, but they are still making money since the owners are paying for the vehicles. Problem is, this type of business practice could end up hurting Toyotas rep and customer loyalty.
Just my thoughts.
I was able to reproduce the rumble stip issue on my truck while at the dealer this morning, but there is no TSB on my particular truck at this time. (5.7RC Long Box build= 8/07).
This leads me to believe that either Toyota does not know the scope of the vehicles affected, or…..
Dealer is checking into it. I’m going to give them the benefit of a doubt, and guess that they are still collecting data and may not know which ones are affected. My advice is to go try it, and if affected, schedule an appointment immediately to give them a better idea who has it. This, in turn, will help them identify more VINs affected and maybe another TSB for some vehicles. It gets much lighter after 600 miles for some. I’m at 750m and what used to shake stuff off of the dash, is now only making 3-8 cycles of whatever is vibrating – almost feels like hitting any bump or crack in the road. I am sure there are more out there that do not know they have the issue since they may have never been in ideal conditions to make it occur – 1100 to 1800 rpm, 30-45mph while on slight upgrade or level ground. Mine occurs almost always at 1000-1150 rpm (just above idle) at 38mph. I almost wrote this off as “Break In”.
Toyota isn’t going to write you a letter asking you to go test this. The more stats they have, the better thier picture of the issue. Get it identified to help them isolate any others out there, especially those who just wrote it off as “break in”.
By the way, I have read posts by others that are able to reproduce it at 6k miles, so dont be to discouraged / encouraged if you are past 600. It may still show up, but then again you may not have the issue either.
The main point here is Toyota owes it to those of us that are trusting owners to acknowledge the problems and come up with solutions sooner. Toyota has not done this!
As an owner of a 2000 Tundra with an eye towards replacing it soon, I have to say I’m glad to have found this blog. Wish that I had found something similar before I bought my first Tundra. I mean, what a great ride and powerful smooth drivetrain, but Toyota stonewalling on the brake issue and the exhaust leak left me with a sense that Toyota indeed is striving to rival the domestics, though not in a good way. Reading all this, I guess they’re up to it again. I understand that a model redesign will render some issues that were not probably expected, but the way Toyota has treated the issues in the past regarding my defective brakes, I don’t think they give a damn once they have your $30K to $40K in the bank. In that way, they ARE rivaling the competition, sad to say. Looks like I’m going to have to look more closely at the Titan and the new Chevy (though I really want to buy the Tundra), before I sign on the dotted line in a few months.
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Once this tranny issue is resolved, I’ll be happy as a lark with this 3/4 ton that i’m getting 24mpg with.
TundraScout: You probably already know this, and posting this just to get at some people, but the Tundra is a 1/2 ton, not a 3/4 ton. Also, if you get a real 3/4 ton diesel you can get 24 mpg’s. The Tundra is one heck of a truck, but wouldn’t compare it to a 3/4 ton in any aspect, except maybe a more comfortable ride.
Hey how about updating the website to include the problems with the tailgate? Be nice to have a tailgate built stronger than a beercan.
I agree with the tailgate. I have a KFX700 and was looking forward to loading it in the back of my 07 Tundra using ramps, but I have seen the pictures and comments.
I see my buddy’s loading them in their trucks without no problems.
Definately a bad point for the Tundra.
Anyone having dash problems? On delivery, there was this seal that had come un-gluded at the bottom right corner where the windshield a-pillar and dash meet. A service foreman assured me that it was no big deal but after three visits the problem is not yet solved. By visit two, I was told the truck would need to spend the day so that the dash could be removed to replace the seal, which is fine actually, if that had happened. The dealer simply cut the seal and sort of stuffed in it place and replaced the a-pillar cover because it was “twisted”. I spent some time looking over the ill-fitting corner and have now noticed that really the dash seems kinda deformed overall. It drops in some places, while rising in others. I wonder, because this truck was one of the “last” 07 models, if it just maybe just sat in the sun all summer and baked? Either way, the dash really shouldn’t warp, and the dealer should easily see and admit the flaw. I hope that Toyota will help remedy this problem. As for the bed issue, I realize that there have been times that, on the highway, I’ve felt as if I’d run over a washboard and the clips for my tonneau cover do knock on the back of the cab – – is this what I’m feeling? In any case, I must sat that any bed wobble issues notwithstanding, the suspension and chassis (double cab, 07, TRD)are way better in practice than my last f-150(04, Lariat), especially off road, over tracks) Hmmm, I wonder if the bed wobble is really an issue. Looking at it is kinda freaky, feeling the “washboard” feeling is also, but again, in general daily use the truck is really good. Well, if it is a problem, I hope Toyota will deal with the issue – – in that regard, Ford was really tough (to deal with)!
1. My qualifications to comment on vehicle quality and performance: Bought my first car 32 years ago and my last 3 months ago. Have owned 27 vehicles, 18 of which were purchased new. 12 of them were pickups, 3 were vans, and 3 SUV’s. 2 were foreign spec (purchased while living in the UK and Japan). I admit to having a problem staying away from car lots.
2. My personal experience: The only vehicles that never had to go in for warranty work were Dodge trucks, Jeeps, and Mini Cooper.
3. Worst experience was with a ’04 Chev 3/4 ton 4X4. Truck leaked puddles of water into the cab when it rained. After the dealer tried for a month to fix it, convinced GM to do a trade re-purchase of the truck. At least they made the situation right.
4. All vehicles are engineered and built by people, which makes them not perfect.
5. No matter how much you spend, you will find faults with the vehicle. The warranty exists as the manufacturer’s good faith guarantee that they will stand by their product if it fails. If you’re an idiot and think you will torture test the vehicle to see what breaks, you will find out, but it won’t be the manufacturer’s fault.
6. If you take exception to or are offended by the term idiot used in the above paragraph, I challenge you to log on to youtube.com and search for videos of people doing dumb things with cars and trucks. You will see what I mean.
7. I bought an 07 Toyota Tundra 4X4 SR5 doublecab with a 5.7 litre engine. I have put 5000 miles on it in 3 months. The following are issues with it:
a. When brand new, it had a terrible shimmy/vibration felt through the steering wheel at 65-75 mph. The dealer balanced the wheels, replaced 1 tire (Michilin), and couldn’t resolve the problem. Finally, they checked the run out in the wheels and found one rear to be out of round. The rim was replaced and the vibration went away.
b. The guages are hard to see in the day time wearing sun glasses. Big deal. Every car I’ve owned has had an issue with the guages, i.e. not enough of them, can’t see them, obscured by the steering wheel, etc. Cars are built to fit the statistically averge human, which I have never met but am sure I am not him.
c. The truck has the smoothest shifting auto trans I have ever experienced in any vehicle. It does not hunt for gears, downshifts nicely and provides reasonable compression braking. Also has Tow/haul mode.
d. The engine clatters a little when cold for the first mile. I attribute this to the fact it is overhead cam and has 32 valves, which is a lot of valve train to contend with. Valve trains typically have some lash in the system when they are cold before being completely lubricated and before the metal parts expand and take up the lash. The engine also has variable valve timing which is continually adjusting the engine timing, and this system could play a part in the cold clatter effect. I disagree with the people who think they have piston slap or bad cranks.
e. I have not torture tested my tailgate, but I weigh 200 pounds and have stood on it and it hasn’t caved in. I agree, you shouldn’t have to remove your tailgate when you haul stuff, but also recognize that the tail gate is intended to keep items from falling out of the bed, not necessarily act as an extension of the bed floor, so can see both sides of the argument of weak tailgate.
f. The truck is a magnet. If I park it far out in a lonely part of a parking lot, when I come back to it 4 cars will be parked next to it. I think this phenomenon is caused by people trying to get a better look at it. Had the same problem with my Mini Cooper S.
8. Summary: There is no perfect vehicle. Some are more reliable than others, and any of them can be a lemon — just hope you didn’t buy one. Everyone has an opinion and they will vary greatly. Toyota intends to sell millions of Tundras, and has about 200,000 of them on the road right now. Everyone is not happy with them but most are. I like mine.
That diesel noise from the engine is in fact variable valve timing related. Why? I still hear it sometimes even with the engine hot and been driven for a while not just cold engines. My 2005 F150 had this problem. Ford changed the sprockets on the valve timing mechanism or something like that, and it did most definetly fixed it.
Two different representatives of Toyota today told me in clear terms that they will not redo,upgrade,change anything due to a design flaw. Unless there is a recall or a broken part they told me nothing will be done by them. That is their policy as stated to me today. They said that design flaws are addressed in a later new vehicle and not before. There, what do you think of that?
My Double Cab shook so hard it made my legs numb from 52-67mph and dealer woun’t fix it. The transmission also shakes too but it was different. I learned to live with the lighting issues but after 4,500 miles and three months the engine let loose last Monday…typical Monday. This is totally unacceptable. I suspect that the camshaft sheared, will find out what the dealer autopy uncovers tomorrow. My 03 F150 was virtually flawless and put through major abuses but never failed me once; just sucked gas like most full sized trucks do. Now I am relegated to driving around in a sienna loaner for the next two weeks. Worse yet the door doesn’t want to shut for some reason. Does anyone know what the lemon laws are in Colorado? Other than looking different from the crowd, I’m not getting my monies worth, rough ride, blown motor, vibrations and now I question the reliability which signals a major paradigm change at toyota. Now I’m hearing about tailgate issues which I haven’t had to use much just yet but I weigh over 280 pounds and the horror stories are starting at 180 pounds. Any suggestions?
Frustrated, mad and very concerned in Colorado.
My brother purchased a Tundra and has since traded it in for a new F-250. Too many problems with his 5.7L 4×4. The $7,000 cash back was his first reason to buy. Not worth the money. Me: Toyota loyal but am now thinking they have begun to slack. Perhaps its time to go back to Ford, too?
Colorado_Stan: I’d return that Sienna loaner if I were you. Maybe the reason the door won’t shut is due to the reason listed below. I’d consider this a recall, but evidently Toyota doesn’t.
http://www.leftlanenews.com/to.....ivans.html
http://www.autoblog.com/2007/1.....ll-mind-y/
http://blogs.cars.com/kickingt.....it-a-.html
http://blogs.cars.com/kickingt.....it-a-.html
Also check this out about the Tundra. the transmission issue everyone is having is the Torque Convertor:
http://www.autoblog.com/2007/1.....ty-issues/
and as this link states, “Yes, the Toyota Tundra has had a very rough week, but it’s no more difficult than the time Tundra owners spend with trucks that don’t work as advertised.”
any have or know about the 22″ TRD rims? please respond
I was on a rough road on my ranch and evidently the bouncing has caused my Tundra DC truck bed to smash into the cab. I wasn’t even going very fast either. It has a 5″ x 2″ crease in the sheet metal and the paint is all scuffed up too on the other side. The only thing I can think of is that the bed was loose or that the frame flexed too much. The bed doesn’t appear to be loose. The dealer is balking at fixing it but he will…trust me. I guess this is also the result of all that vibration that I have been feeling around the transmission and in back. I have had no satisfaction since the second week I owned our Texas made truck. I am real close to going back to an F250 King Ranch. This is unacceptable; I never had these kinds of problems with F-series or GM’s.
This whole internet blogging on the Tundra, has caught the Auto Industry off guard, not just Toyota. I bet we start seeing a few news articles just about auto blogs in the near future.
Blogs have both bad and good points however (here comes both barrels):
Bad:
Anyone can post to a lot of different public boards, for personal interest sake or for whatever motivates them, and try to sway public opinion – These people are also known as POSERS. When busted, it makes them look stupid, vendictive, manipulative and says alot about thier character. Sure, its a free country, so voice your opinions, but when opinion bends fact, it is usually easy to spot for the trained eye.
I’ve seen posts about how Americans buying Japanese cars are “Ruining our heritage.” Isnt this MY heritage also to do with what I want? If your thinking “no”, then you might as well join the Socialist party, if you haven’t already done so.
“Not supporting the American Worker” is another one I read alot. I am glad that the United States has trade agreements with Japan, so that the money I spend on thier cars is also eventually spent on Quality American products. This means that the best PRODUCT wins, which pushes further competition in the entire market, making the consumer the ultimate winner. As much as some people hate the Tundra, they’ll be glad when thier automaker of choice goes back to the drawing board and redesigns something BETTER THAN THE STATUS QUO. How many vehicles have not been evaluated to create a better product in over 10-20 years? Good is Good, agreed, but what about BETTER?
I’m as Patriotic and American as anyone else. I buy Toyotas because I believe they make the best overall product. I am an American and it is my right to choose how I spend my money. I never knew there were so many Ford salesmen online. Looks like they are all finding thier way to this site now to demonize Toyota…To bad, now there is no more credibility left for this site.
Good:
I’m going to go out on a limb and bet that Toyota will start a blog site that will allow only Toyota OWNERS to post opinions, observations and reliable information and allow OWNERS to even grip about things they dislike but without the rehtoric of non-owners.
Blogging has brought about change in the vehicle us OWNERS love, and yes, sometimes love to hate (e.g. tailgate issue, etc).
More on the good news. If you guys weren’t so SCARED of the Tundra overtaking the market *at some point in the near future, and making your buying decision a less popular one, you wouldn’t even post here.
I’m off to a diffent, more closely moderated site where factual knowledge is being shared and someone is not telling me the sky is falling. I already made MY best choice for a vehicle, and now I am doing the same with this website.
TundraScout: I’m not for or against the Tundra, just prefer to point out the facts. You have your opinion, which is fine, to each their own. But to try to discredit people who post here or all other sites as “Posers”, well you get that with any site, no matter what site you go to, sports, auto, etc.
I’ll admit the Tundra has some amazing qualities, like the powertrain, brakes and cab size. In other aspects, it’s not as good as other makes, such as payload and ride quality for a couple. This is simply a fact, not being biased. The Tundra was/is supposed to be more reliable and built better than other makes, being this is what you expect from Toyota, but so far it has not proven to be either.
Every 1st year model has it’s issues, which are usually worked out by the 2nd or 3rd model year, which I have stressed all along. We’ll see if CR puts the Tundra 4X4 back on their recommended list at that time.
Now you talk about posers and people being biased, which is completely okay, but you are showing these same biased tendancies. Be a loyal Toyota fan, that’s your right, but don’t be blind to the facts that this truck has exhibited issues. Not everybody that states they have an issue are posers, many may be people that purchased the truck because of the advertising, but have been dissappointed by the results. To discredit the Tundra issues, is to also discredit the Toyota engine sludge issue, the Tacoma surge/acceleration issue, Sienna door opening by itself and many more issues. Seems like you try to make the Toyota product out to be flawless, which is becoming less and less common now days.
Ford fans? So where do you think the Tundra is getting it’s truck buying population from? I would venture to guess the majority of Tundra purchasers are formerly domestic truck owners, not your typical Camry/Corolla owner. Still for the time being, I don’t see the domestics being too scared of this Tundra, but maybe in a few years. With the issues stressed so far and the fact the Tundra is still selling less than a 1/3 of what Ford sells in the truck market, let alone what all the other domestics sell.
So go where you like, post what you like, just need to keep in mind people many times come to these sites to provide an unbiased, objective opinions. Not just what your opinion is.
It’s me again. I guess I’m one of the lucky 10’s of thousand that at 12,000 miles have had no complaints or defects to report or complain about. It’s the best truck I’ve ever owned. By the way I use my tailgate to offset my load lengths being lumber or even steel beams and my tailgate hasn’t buckled. I do distribute the weight accordingly to quantity so that the whole bed and tailgate absorb the weight evenly. Since this truck has performed to my expectation and work load requirements, I’m getting ready to add another possible 2 units to my construction fleet! I will keep this site updated to the progress of my Tundras……. TOYOTA MOVING ME FORWARD TROUBLE FREE and out the Dealership Service Department!!!!!!!!!
Nachy Valledor: I believe your fashion of loading in the bed will keep the tailgate in good shape. Evenly distribute the weight, so no large amount of weight is located on one specific portion of the tailgate. This may be a problem with an ATV and such items, as it is a little difficult to evenly spread the weight over the entire tailgate, unless you place some plywood underneath the wheels that covers the entire surface.
Glad to see your Tundra is doing well. The owners of these problematic Tundras may be few and far between, but it’s always the ones that have issues that you hear about, almost never the flawless ones.
How about this one.
Tundra owners grumble over rumble
Toyota’s Tundra pickup was hit with a double whammy last week. Angry consumers are peppering the Internet with complaints that the torque converter in the 2007 Tundra’s six-speed transmission has problems disengaging during gearshifts — a problem that Toyota acknowledges. Meanwhile, the Tundra 4×4 model took a broadside from magazine, which rated it “below average” in projected reliability. Of the 150,000 Tundra’s Toyota believe it effects all trucks equiped with the 5.7L engine and the 6-Speed Gear Box. The combination accounts for 70% of the Tundra sales to date effecting nearly 100,000 Trucks. The supplier of the torque converter Aisin, would not Comment.
Automotive News 10/22/07
The reason I did not buy the 5.7L with the 6-speed gear box is that both are brand new units with no track record. I opted for the 4.7L with the 5 speed box which has basically been around forever. However,now, with 1,000 miles on the truck, I’ve developed a dull ringing sound in the tranny everytime I put it in gear. In neutral or park the truck is whisper quiet. The minute I put it into gear (forward or reverse) I get this dull metallic ringing sound.I also hear it going 30 to 40 MPH when you depress and release the accelerator. Foot on the gas, the ring is there. Take your foot off the gas, the ring goes away. What moves in the tranny the instant you put the truck in gear even though you don’t move? Torque converter??? Anyone have this bug or any comments?
I took it to the dealership and the service guy did not want to beleive me that I had a vibration of my transmission, he looked at me like I was stupid, he had the service manager test drive the truck and he came back and told me that I had a problem with my tires….I thought it was crazy that the tires were going to be the problem, I told him what I had read about the torque converter but he said not to read what is on the internet, he said is not always true. He emailed a truck specialist for Toyota and that specialist called him and told him it was going to be the torque converter that they are aware of the problem and they are running some test to come out with a good solution to the problem, he said that there is only 6 known cases that have been reported with the same issue. The service manager told me that as soon as Toyota comes out with a bulletin on what to do with the issue he would give me a call to take care of the problem. But I guess all the people that have posted a blog in here saying that there truck is messing up, take it to the dealer and report it so that they are aware of more issues with the trucks ..don’t just write about it..let them know that you have a issue with your truck that way Toyota can take care of the issue…
Question? I am not a bug fan of Imports. Hell, I was born and raised in a GM family. But I have one question out there for those of you that are buying the imports. If American car companies were building cars that Consumer Reports and the media told you were better would you choose a American vehicle over a Import for the sake of American jobs and keeping the money with a american company?
Keep in mind I know the Tundra is built in Texas, I also know that almost all Toyota’s sold in the US are made here. I am just asking from a American pride position.
I live the metro detroit and all my family and friends drive GM, Ford and Dodge so I don’t have anyone to ask that questions.
Thanks
hi folks
well i have 1200 miles on it now and no problems at all the vibration seems to have left around 650 miles. what a sweet vehicle c u round.
I own a Tundra Limited with 5.7L engine. It has 2300 miles on the odometer. It was manufactured in January 2007. I have the vibration ride issue and am also scheduled to have my torque converter replaced by Toyota for the vibration / surging from the transmission.
anyone have the TRD 22″ Rims? any pics how are they?
I am also am having my torque converter replaced
My truck sounds like a diesel engine for the first 5mi. or so every morning, is this normal? I also have the 5.7
Rich,
That is the same problem I have. other 5.7 owners in this forum have the same issue.
This is not a simple solution it is definitely a defect in the engine,
I am taking mine in because it is getting louder
Will post any information I gather
My truck also does not want to shift right away in the morning for the first few mi.
I love my 07 tundra, have had to have the tail gate fixed as it quit opening but the dealer repaired it, no problem.
Now, however, the ac doesn’t seem to be draining and the cab now smells like a locker room. When I first start it up it is so bad, someone asked what had died in there. I have taken it to the dealer and they said it drained great for them.. ‘course. But it does not drain now and I took it back yesterday.
I used to be a mechanic and now how they work. They guy at the dealer doesn’t want to listen to me. The mechanic has yet to call me back… I will let you know. Has anyone else had this problem? It is less then 3 months old.
I just purchased a 5.7 DC two weeks ago, and the first time I had the “rumble strips”, I thought something in the drivetrain was getting ready to come apart. I called the dealership to explain the issue, and he finished my sentence for me. He was well aware of the issue, and he told me it would get better as I drove it, and if it continued after 3,000 miles, he wanted me to contact him. To his credit, it is less severe now, but it happens more frequently. I’m too embarrased to give anyone a ride in my new truck now. I’m not sure if this will “go away” (which I’m affraid will only manifest in other transmission problems later), but I did go to the TOYOTA website and log a formal complaint with my VIN # to document this. I really do like this truck, and I’ve had several FORD pickups F150/250’s, but this truck is twice the truck of a current F150. 380 horse with 18 mpg… I’m sold. I’m just hoping it will be as reliable as my FORDs have been. Concerned Razorback.
Heath Ownes: I’m confused with your post. You state you’re afraid you may have future trans. issues, have already filed a complaint with Toyota, hope the truck is as reliable as your Fords and are embarrased to give people rides, but then claim the Tundra is twice the truck. I personally can’t see how you can see the Tundra is twice the truck, based soley off the MPG & HP, without factoring the issues/concerns you just stated at only 3K miles. To each their own, but I’d rather take a truck that gets a little worse MPG and a little less HP but is more reliable and less embarrassing. Just me.
Just like Heath, i am over 2K miles with the “rumble strips” problem on a 5.7 4×4. Saturday will be the 3rd time to the dealer to ID the problem, so please keep sending info on what your respective dealer is doing to fix the problem. I’m by no means ashamed of the truck; in fact, just the opposite. My family tends get well over 300K on Toyotas and i expect the same with my Tundra. Justin – i take it you do not own a Toyota truck, so i’m confused with your post. Don’t you have better things to do then cruise Toyota blogs? Or are you just educating yourself before a purchase?
Justin: Listen, I am concerned with my transmission right now, and I am embarrassed that $35K in a new truck and it vibrates like this! I am confident that TOYOTA is going to stand by their product and correct this. I just wanted to document it for the future if indeed my current vibration continues to lessen to the point it does go away. Anyone who is objective about the product itself will also come to the conclusion that the TOYOTA is built much stronger than the domestics. In a gasoline truck, you will not find one with as much motor, rear gear, and brakes than the tundra. It turns tighter, and blows the domestics away with it’s safety features. I work in my truck, and besides the DODGE, none of them come close to features like the center console and available storage. I dismissed the TOYOTA when I first started shopping, because I personally do not care for the looks of the front-end that much. FORDS have always looked best in my opinion, but once I looked at the features of the TOYOTA, it was a no brainer for me. Each to his own though. Like someone earlier stated, I just don’t want a lot of field engineering on my truck, just because it’s a new model. That’s my concern in a nutshell. If this year model doesn’t prove to beat the domestics in reliability, I promise you it won’t be long. I bought it for the expected reliability and the features that out-classed the domestics in my view. Time will tell.
HO
Mark Wooten: I cruise all makes site, Nissan, Ford, GM, Dodge, Honda and this site. I prefer to be educated on any decision I make. I like to find out what problems a vehicle has, from current owners, prior to making a large purchase. I do not own a Toyota currently, but have friends and family that have in the past and do currently, mostly 4runners but also a Corolla, two Tacoma’s and a 1st Gen Tundra. I’ve owned Nissan (cars) in the past and own two currently as well as a domestic 1/2 ton. I really have no preference make/model. I read magz, which can be biased, but usually let the owners inform me how a particular model performs. It’s a fine line with sites like this, cause you get biased posts from both loyal and non-loyal fans. I must determine who’s shooting straight and who’s full of it. That’s why you’ll see in almost everyone of my posts, that I admit each make has its strong points, but also have their drawbacks. Some people are just so brand loyal, they can’t see the truth. So thanks for the inquiry, I just can’t and won’t be swayed by anyones personal bias, good or bad.
HO: Thanks for the heads up. Was simply curious why you felt the Tundra was twice the truck, but were so concerned/embarassed by it. I admit, the powertrain of the Tundra is the best on the market. I’m sure Toy will stand by their product, as usual, and your needing to document issues. This is partly why I refuse to purchase a 1st or even a 2nd model year vehicle, of any make. Too many bugs to work out. So far the 2WDs are proving to be pretty reliable, but the 4X4 versions are having their issues. Most notably the flag ship 5.7L w/6spd trans. Of course Toy has had the 4.7L and 5spd in the previous Gen. Tundra, so most the bugs have been worked out of them. I’m glad you like the truck and hope you continue to inform us on the performance and reliability of it. I’m all for the latest and greatest, just won’t jump at any item of this value for the “Got to have it” and “It’s a Toyota” mentality. Good luck with your Tundra!
I thought I would follow-up on my posts of Oct. 3rd and 18th. regarding the diesel engine sound in my 5.7 Tundra. I left my truck at the dealers in the evening, explained the engine noise and left instructions that I would be back in the morning to ride with a service tech to confirm the noise with the engine cold and under acceleration. I arrived that morning and was asked to wait a few minutes for a tech. After 25 minutes of waiting, I asked when we could go for a test ride. To my surprise, I was told that the service tech had already started the engine and tried it in the parking lot until the engine was warm. This is not what I requested, as the noise really becomes evident under mild acceleration with the engine cold. Now that the engine had warmed up, we went for our test ride. Of course it is now quiet. Again I was told that this noise is common with this engine due to piston expansion and contraction,and that the reason that I am aware of it is because the rest of the truck is so quiet!!! The repair order confirms a noise coming from the engine compartment but unable to verify any indication of needed repair. I guess the only answer is to smile and turn up the radio.
Rob Lee: Thanks for the update. This is why I hate dealing with some dealerships, never listen and think they know what’s best. This is why I only shop/have service at dealerships I’ve found to respect my word and business, not say/do what they like.
Either way, I can not see this being good for the truck, then again I’m no engineer. I have never heard any gas engine, from a 4 cylinder to a 10 cylinder sound like that. I understand expansion/contraction, but why so severe on one particular engine model? Wouldn’t many makes/models of cars/trucks with the same type of build format have this same issue/noise? This is not an isolated problem, because many have expressed it. Kind of like the GM Piston Slap issue, many people have it, GM dealers say it’s not a big issue/normal GM won’t fix the issue, so what are you to do?
Good luck on finding a resolution. Keep us posted!
hey all
to my surprise the dealer i bought my truck from called me today, the guy said toyota is aware of the tranny vibration and they should have a fix in a couple weeks and they would call me. i am very happy with the truck and have no complaints. i will keep ya’ll posted
my 07 double cab 5.7 limited vibrates at speeds between 30 – 40. it has something to do with 5th gear. if i put the shifter in manual mode and keep the transmission in 4th gear the noise and vibration go away. i also don’t like the fact that the sonar doesen’t pick up objects straight in front of the vehicle. i can run straight into a post or any object without the alarm making any noise. it works on the corners and in the rear but toyota didn’t put any sensors in the front middle section. since most parking these days is straight in. a sensor in the front middle would have been nice
Robert Lee: Sorry to hear about your experience at the dealership — they just don’t listen to you sometimes unless you rant and rave. The explanation they gave you doesn’t make much sense to me either…if the truck is so quiet, why can you hear anything at all?
Mike: The sensors are flawed, no doubt. Unfortunately, it’s a common problem with that technology. Ford had that system before Toyota, and they had the same problem. Of course, adding another sensor would have helped…
So much for the torque converter replacement. Still have the same problem. Waiting on word from Toyota for the next procedure.
GT: As stated in the cam-shaft blog, I’m sorry to hear the TC replacement didn’t fix the problem and wonder what steps Toyota took in fixing the TC. Did they make any modifications to the TC’s or are they simply swapping out the TC with another that is sitting in a warehouse. If no corrections were made to the TC, I’d venture to guess you’ll continue to have this issue until they do.
Keep us posted, as I’m sure we’re all suprised this was the reported issue, but hasn’t seemed to fix the problem, at least for you. Haven’t heard of anyone else having the TC replaced yet, but hopefully others will post their experience. Good luck and I hope you find a quick resolution.
Guess what? My wife drove the Tundra to work today. I was following her home in another vehicle. No tail lights on the Tundra. Arrived at home. Checked and found that I had no tail lights, turn signals from the rear lights. No lamp or turn signal on either tow mirror. No fog lights and no parking lights. Checked all the normal fuses. Could find no blowm ones. Guess this will be the fourth trip to the dealership. Wonder if they will pay for my time for missing work? Also I really have no information on the torque converter they replaced last Monday. I now have 3200 miles on the vehicle. What’s going to happen next? I really want to keep this vehicle because I do like the styling, interior and towing ability but the frustration is growing.
My 07′ crewmax Tundra has 5600 miles on it and yesterday when I went to go put gas on it the Distance To Empty MPG did not go up it stayed at 17MPG it is now 12 and on the fuel gage it reads a 1/4 tank according to the needle guess I will be paying the dealer a visit soon.
Does anyone hear a whistling noise like when you have the window cracked open just a little and you are driving at freeway speeds. Well on my 07′ crewmax with all the windows closed and the a/c andm radio off you hear that noise at freeway speeds it is very annoying I have to give the radio up kind of loud so that I won’t have to hear that whistling noise I am going to have to take it to the dealer that can’t be the way it suppose to be they need to fix that.I don’t know exactly were the noise is coming from though but I will let the guys at the dealer figure that out.
GT: I feel for you. Was your truck one of the 1st to roll off the assembly line?
Of course the lack of fogs, tails & mirror lamps sounds to be a short of some sort. Had a similar issue with an ’85 Ranger, but I was able to trace it back to the source and fix the issue myself. Of course this was after the truck was already 10+ years old & 100+K miles. Now for only having 3200 miles and a $30-$40K truck, this should not be happening.
Don’t think the dealer will pay for your missed work, most never have and never will. I know some good dealerships that may give you a couple free oil changes and stuff of that sort, but not pay for missed work.
When you do return to the dealership, maybe question them about the TC and pry as much info. as possile from them. Like what modifications Toyota has made to the TC, if any, to recify the vibration. Ask them how many other TC’s they’ve replaced so far. Stuff like that, just so you can understand the severity of the issues expressed, from the dealers standpoint.
Jose: On your gas issue, sounds like a sending unit. Warranty will fix this easily.
For the whistle, check the windshield area. I’ve found more and more cars windshields aren’t being secured with adhesive as well from the assebly line. Also, did you install any Vent Visors or a Bug Guard? I’ve heard these can make a whistling noise on certain vehicles.
No I did not install any vent visors or a bug guard.
We have two 07 4X4 limited 5.7 L, and one DC 4.7L, we live in the mojave desert, and beat these trucks through desert you wouldnt want to walk across, so far no trouble, but hey there new. I break everything I drive offroad, if they dont hold up to my abuse, I will change the name on the back to TUNA,, SMELLY WHITE, BWWAAAHAAAA BTW these 5.7L motors roost real nice like. George, Mojave Desert Kalexico
Justin,
I was just being facetious about the dealer paying for time from work. I took the Tundra to the dealership this morning. I was there about 45 minutes.
I asked the repairman what had caused the problem with the lights. He just smiled and said I would have to ask the service rep. The service rep walked out and told me it was all fixed and ready to go. I asked him what had cause the electrical problem and he told me that a pin on one of the main connections to the fuse box had been bent. He told me it has probably been like that ever since I got the vehicle in March. I just kind of looked at him since I know I had the lights two weeks ago. Anyway to make a long story short. I believe one of the service techs had probably reconnected the plug in a hurry and probably bent it when I was in there on Monday or when they installed my trailer brake controller earlier. Any way, everything works and mistakes happen.
Oh, I may have jumped to conclusions when I stated that the torque converter did not solve my transmission problem. It actually may have. I have not experienced any of the shimmy lately. I may have mistaken some road virbration for the vibration I had been having in the transmission. I almost forgot; I asked the service rep about the torque converter problem. He stated that he knew of only two other Tundras that have came to his dealership with the problem. He didn’t have to much to say about it other than the newer production Tundras have not had any problems. My vehicle had been manufactured in January of this year.
Thanks for your input.
GT
Had a 01 F-150 for 6 1/2 years. Great truck. Only a $100 repair on the idler control valve. I figured to try Tundra. Great truck for the most part.
But some concerns,
The vibrations at slow acceleration before it shifts. Engine reacting poorly or the transmission having problems shifting smoothly?
I needed more aggressive tires so I traded for 285/65/18 BFG AT. The steering wheel shakes on asphalt at different speeds. They
I am a 3x Toyota owner because of the reliablilty and performance of the vehicles. My latest purchase was a used 2007 Tundra. It’s a very powerful and comfortable truck. Is there a recall on the torque converter. I am experiencing problems sometimes with the tranny bucking into gear between 2nd and 3rd gear. I purchased the vehicle from a non toyota dealer who denies there is a problem. When I took it to my local Toyota dealer it was diagnosed as the torque converter. The problem is not constant but I want to know that the problem isn’t going to worsen. My VSC light,4lo and check engine light also comes on periodically and then goes out after a few hrs.
What’s that about?
Thanks,
Satisfied but concerned!
Mike,
Not sure what the issue is and I haven’t heard of a recall on the torque converter. Have you asked your Toyota dealer about the lights?
-Tim
Jerry
it could be your torque converter
as far as the lift kit
I put a ready lift kit about 3″ on my CreMax and a 1″ block on the back
it didnt stop the rippeling vibration
but it looks hot!
d
bed bounce. tailgate problems. takes gas. camshaft. cheap interior. vibirates
I have a double cab 07 tundra 5.7 ,captain chairs with 7,000 miles. When I put the truck in park, release the break, the shifter will shift forward some making a noise. Anyone else having that problem?
Jason — are you parking on an incline? If so, that sound is the weight of the truck resting on your transmission. Set your parking brake before releasing your foot off the regular brake and you’ll keep the weight off the transmission.
I have a 5.7 CrewMax 4×4 that has had wheel balance issues since day 1. Been to the dealer 3x and they have replaced 1 tire they said was bad. Bridgstone Dueler H/T 255/70 R18. I now have about 4000 miles and it still shakes. I cannot believe Toyota put these tires on a 4×4, also the two front tires always look low on air even though they are filled properly. I know these tire SUCK but could it be something else that causes my steering wheel to shake?
Great Site.
Jesse
Also, anyone else in Central Texas having trouble with Toyota service departments? I had a 99 Landcruiser before my Tundra and everytime I took it in for service I was dissapointed.
mrlister: Maybe have them look into the Rims themselves. I’ve heard there have been problems with the tires, when replaced the shake has gone away. Others have replaced tires and as a last resort the dealer replaced a rim or two which fixed the shake. Not sure if it was the 18″ rims or not, but it’s something to look at. Not sure if there was some bad casting of the rims or not, but this does seem to be an issue with many 07 Tundra owners.
mrlister: My Tundra with the 18″ 6 spoke aluminum wheels had a severe vibration felt through the steering wheel when new. The dealer replaced one tire (Michelin) but the vibration remained. They finally checked the wheels for run-out and found the right rear to be out of round. They replaced the wheel and I’ve had no more problems.
Admin: Reguarding the shifter shifting after it is in park and after releasing the break. I spoke with a guy at my Toyota dealership and he said that he has had some calls about the same problem I am having. He said one guy has complained about that same problem since he bought the truck new. The guy at the dealership has a 07 Tundra and he said he noticed it on his new truck as well.
This happens most of the time whether I park on an incline, decline, or just flat. I do use my parking break when needed to avoid this problem. I guess I will have to wait and see if more people have this problem before anything can be done about it.
I have a 2007 Double Cab Tundra SR-5 with the 5.7L. I packed the bed full and shut the tailgate. When I went to open it the tailgate wouldn’t open. The hinges are connected to a rod via a plastic clip which broke. Toyota had a TSB for it. Would have been nice to know before I filled the bed.
Interesting question from Brian about whether the average Toyota buyer would even consider buying a domestic even if all the reviews and rating said the domestic was better. My hunch is they wouldn’t. There seems to be an emotional bias that can prejudice the way people view the quality of their cars, generally favorably for Toyotas/Hondas and unfavorably for Ford/GM/Dodge.
An example: the JD Power quality ratings for the Toyota Matrix are reasonably good, but for the Pontiac Vibe they are significantly poorer. But since these two cars are mechanically identical (save some lights and trim) and are assembled by the same people in the same factory, how could their quality be that different? The answer is that they can’t. So is the difference in the quality rating, based on owner surveys, most likely that the Matrix owners have a higher impression of the quality of their vehicle simply because it’s a “Toyota” versus a “Pontiac”? (Note that this quality rating is broken down by mechanical aspects on which neither the selling dealer nor the servicing dealer can have any effect.)
’07 5.7 DC No problems hands down the best truck out right now. I drove every truck out except the Titan, THERE IS NO COMPARISON. I havent had any problens with my truck and everyone who rides in it cant stop talking about how nice it rides. For all you Tundra haters out there all I can say is I can out tow you, I can out haul you, I can out run you and my interior is nicer than any domestic truck made (except the Sierra Denali)SO DONT HATE CONGRATULATE
Okay I had not read anything about the “Vibration” in the transmission. Drive home noticed a vibration as if we were going over strips in the road. Service Dept had no idea of what it could be. I found online other issues similar. Toyota “IS AWARE” of this issue as being the “Torque Converter” They replaced it but it still had transmission issues, it pulled to the right pretty bad and the stereo was “Possed”! Toyota showed little to NO empathy for my Frustration with buying a $34K vechicle “CASH” just to have it needing serviced 2 in less than the first 20 days of buying it! Well I being Frustrated & Determined to get someones attention…I took White & Yellow paint and wrote all over my windows how I was an “UHAPPY CUSTOMER of Mariana Toyota…New Truck Owner”! I put my phone # and my e-mail address and sent my husband to the dealer for yet “Another” service call! Oh did I get someones Attention! The Owner understood and heard my Voice and Frustration! He was NOT liking the “BAD” advertising sitting up front and center of his lot! As it turned out they took back the 2007 and put us into a 2008! This dealership Went the distance and did what it took to make this right! We can’t yet relax and are finding we are “PARONOID” that someting will go wrong with this truck too! WE are just hoping that TOYOTA learned how to resolve the issues prior to the release of the 2008! TOYOTA NEEDS TO SHOW MORE CONERN AND CARE FOR THEIR CUSTOMERS! We all work hard for our Money & we expect a “QUALITY” Purchase!
WAY TO GO MARIANA TOYOTA!
Right On Lisa!
Matt
I bought one too. You just wait for your little surprise. When I bought mine I thought it was awesome too, but overtime I noticed rippling vibrations more and more.
As you drive on different road conditions this may become more apparent to you as well
I was always in love with the Tundras. When I could afford one I started looking at 05s & 06s. After finding that the 07 was just a little more I bought one, in fact it’s an 08(built 10/07). This truck is a lemon with only 663 miles on it and having it for 2 weeks, today I noticed that is sounds like diesel, it also have a squeeking noise when the brakes are depressed a parking lot speed, there is a developing noise in the dash and the driver’s side window squeaks when going up.
I am a HVAC mechanic with 25 years of experience with pumps, motors and other mechanical systems. I told my wife today that this truck was not put together right and it will not get quieter or fix itself after break in. I am scheduled to have the back up camera installed and if I did not prepay for it, I would cancel it.
I waited a long time to buy a new vehicle and I was always partial to the Tundra. It is disappointing to put 35K in a vehicle that is noiser than my 96 Buick.
Next week I plan to go the dealer to have the camera installed and will walk with a laundry list.
However as I said being a HVAC Mech I know that I am going to get the run around from the dealer. I plan to sell this truck after the winter regardless s it was poorly put together.
I work hard for my money and I like to get waht I pay for and all this truck is, a head turner.
I am not eager to get into this truck anymore as I don’t know what other abnormal noise I will hear next.
Please forgive the grammar…very upset!!!
I’m a long time Toyota owner. I have a 1991 V6 that had the head gasket leak and they recalled the Truck with over 87,000 miles on it to repair it.
They rebuilt the Engine because it etched the heads and block.
They offered to put all new parts( Waterpump, Timing Belt, Bearings, Clutch etc)all at their cost with no labor since they had to rebuild it anyways.
So yes, Toyota will fix problems long after the warranty expires if they have a known problem.
Getting them to admit to the problem is one thing.
I see the 07 camry’s and Tacoma’s also are having Tranny problems and they have been very slow to address these issues.
That said, I really wanted a new Tundra but this new Truck has so many issues right now there is no way I’m buying one.
The 08’s still have the rumble strip issue and Toyota thought it was the TC. We’ll apparently not.
The Bed and exterior metal is so thin it will dent just by leaning on it.
The wheel wells are so thin they are easily dented by just stepping on them.
The tailgate is a joke.
The interior is poorly designed and cheap looking with all the plastic and the dash is painted instead of having the color molded in.
The Guages on the Truck I test drove were very hard to see in the daytime. I think they are set to far in.
The bed bounce is real and Toyota is aware of this and they are engineering a fix as we write.
Toyota was in such a rush to get this truck to market they made some crucial mistakes.
Toyota’s top dog in Japan has already said he is ashamed of the new Tundra.
I have faith that Toyota will improve the quality of the Tundra. They will have to because there is a ton of negative press already about the actual issues with it.
I still want a Tundra but I’m going to wait for the 09’s at the very least.
I have owned 4 Tundras since 1999 this 07 5.7 trd Crew Max is the first I have had a problem with, the Dealership replaced the tranny and converter at 500 miles no problems after that I now have 17-250 miles on the truck hwy miles avg. 18.2 at around 80 mph two trips to Fla from Ky in last 2 months power is great ride very smooth have no bed bounce only complaint pass side front seat not enough room guages hard to read door height to short for 6.3 man turning ,parking is 1000% improved over 2006 double cab no problem with tailgate
As a technician for nissan/infiniti, I know what kind of problems arise from new vehicles but you guys have to understand that there are so many toyotas produced out there to the public that it is destined to have a portion out of the big numbers to have problems. Do you know what kind of problems the nissan titan had when it came out? lets just say we had a whole row of 12 bays dedicated for titans and there was problems throughout the vehicle, differential being too small and burning out,exhaust manifolds cracking,rattles,brakes/rotors every 3000 miles and etc. From what i remember the titan was more of failure but nobody cared because it was just a nissan and not a toyota that everyone wants to attack.
john: I agree with all points, except the nobody cared portion regarding the Titan’s initial issues. Since I frequent many sites and read many magz, there was plenty of coverage given to the Titans problems, most notably the rear end failures. I know a few people and have read many forum posts by former Titan owners, which have been scared away from Nissan as a whole due to their many issues. Nissan has made many improvements upon the Titan design and is actually my 2nd favorite truck on the market and own 2 Nissans currently. Now I think Nissan received nearly as much attention for 1st & 2nd model year Titan issues as Toyota has received with the Tundra. Of course Toyota will get plenty of attention due to the simple fact they are #1 or #2 in sells and their quality control has slipped some since the 70’s, 80’s and early 90’s. I’m not too concerned with the quality issues, as this will be fixed. I’m more about the way Toyota handles these problems and how they treat their customers. This has been a learning experience and Toyota will get it corrected. No matter what make/model, the first year or two of a brand new or completely redesigned model is going to have its growing pains.
I know several people that own the new tundra. I drive a 06 and cant wait to get a new one. I have owned all makes of trucks in 1/2 3/4 and 1 ton’s. Fact of the matter is when the bed is empty your going to have a wishy-washy rear end. Go drive on a wash board dirt road for the real test! Toyota will step up and fix things that are problems. Now some of your nit picky problems? “NO” they will not. If you want a car like ride, BUY A CAR! We used ny buddys new tundra to go hunting this year, LOADED down and pulling a camper. It was amazing for a 1/2 ton truck. We later used it in some 4×4 situations and the truck was GREAT!!!!!! I would not consider myself as a Toyota only guy. But was trully impressed with what that truck can do. Keep up the good work Toyota. My next truck will be a Tundra.
So here is th scoop on the ride quality
If you check my previous posts you will see that I complained about the rough ride.
I was really considering seriously getting rid of my Tundra because I though I did not ride smooth enough compared to other trucks.
So I thought I would try out some other trucks. I test drove a Ford F350(retail cost 79,000) and F250 and here is what I found.
After the test drives I realized that the Toyota Tundra was by far the best truck on the market, it drove and handled considerably better in addition the engine power was of the scale.
I can honestly tell you that after driving the Fords, the problems I complained about seem pretty minor to me now.
Don’t take my word for it, go drive some and see what you think and remember that trucks will never handle or ride like cars.
Toyota here is my apology to you.
Comparinng trucks to trucks, there is no doubt in my mind that the new Toyota Tundra is the best ruck on the market by far.
Even though I paid more then I would have buying domestic half ton, I am happy and I believe that I got more then my moneys worth
D
Daniel: Thanks for the comparison and apology to Toyota, but you didn’t compare apples to apples. An F250/350 has a much stiffer suspension and SFA (Solid Front Axle) when compared to the Toyota. These two items alone will make for a much worse ride quality than any IFS (Independent Front Suspension), like most 1/2 tons have these days.
Now had you compared the Tundra against a Silverado/Sierra 1500 or F150, you would have noticed these 1/2 tons have a slightly smoother ride and drive just as well as the Tundra. Now the engine power is only matched by the Chevy/GMC 6.0L, but it’s just sad they install a 3.42 gear ratios, which makes it fractions of a second slower than the Tundra. Had GM installed some better gears, say 3.73 or 4.10, I’d believe the Chevy/GMC would be slightly quicker.
This is based off my experience of driving all three of the above mentioned 1/2 tons. Maybe not a ton of behind the wheel time, but I have spent time as a driver and passenger in every new model on the road, with the exception of the Ram.
Not knocking the the Tundra or the Domestics, just providing an unbiased and objective perspective. You really can’t go wrong with any truck on the road today, they all have their good and bad points. All depends on what wets your whistle.
Justin I would have to agree with you
In fact I just got back from a high way trip and I do have to say it was rougher then it should have been.
especially with the cold weather I do have to say that the ride on my Tundra has gotten much worse then in the summer.
Anyway I hope Toyota comes out with a solution soon.
D
I have the 07, 5.7 Double Cab. Replaced the fuel sending unit at 2500 miles (symptom: reads 1/4 tank), Drivers mirror is loose at 5000 miles. Not the extended tow mirror but the elect. heated chrome type. No charges on either repair.
I feel the bed bounce is the light weight bed. I’ve always had toppers and will be adding one to this truck soon. I believe it will take care of it. It is not bothering me.
I AM concerned about the transmission. It does this thing where it downshifts, seemingly to assist in braking, but it seems to get confused, downshifting 2 or 3 gears causing me to lunge forward in my seat. If this occurred on ice it would be very bad. It did it towing 7k lbs the other day and it freaked out the Ltd Slip Diff causing it to alarm. I probably should have that off with that load. My dealer is looking for possible firmware updates on this shift shock issue but I don’t see anyone else talking about it so it may be my truck.
All in all, I love the truck and recommend it!!!
In manufacturing, feedback is criticle. This is not whining or bashing. This is part of the improvement process when done constructively. Make sure that your dealer puts everything in the computer when you take it in for service. It is how Toyota achieves visability into issues and covers your butt later if it escalates.
I HAVE A 2007 TOYOTA TUNDRA SR5 , MY PROBLEM IS THE TRANSMISSION, WHEN I HAVE IN DRIVE IT DROPS DOWN INTO INTO A LOWER GEAR. THE TACK TELLS ME ALL I WANT TO KNOW.DRIVING AT SPEED OF 50 MILES AN HOUR, TACK READING 3500 HUNDRED, AND AT DIFFERENT SPEEDS TACK IS WAY OVER ITS LIMIT. DEALER SAYS UNLESS THE ENGINE LIGHT GOES ON THER IS NOTHING I CAN DO FOR YOU. AND TOYOTA SAYS THER IS NOTHING I CAN DO FOR YOU UNLESS THE ENGINE LIGHT LIGHT COMES ON OR IT BREAKS { SEE IF I BUY ANOTHER TOYOTA YOU CAN BET I WONT }
Solution
# Matthew Davis Says:
December 10th, 2007 at 2:34 pm
Hello everyone. I am the owner of a 2007 Tundra double cab 4X4 with the 5.7 engine. I have noticed the bed vibration since shortly after purchasing the truck in July. I had some time on my hands the other day, so I got up under the truck to see if I could identify the sourse of the vibration. Those of you who own this truck can go and grab the rear bumper and shake it up and down vigorously and you will observe independent motions of the bed and the cab. I began to realize that the frame has a harmonic frequency with a pivot point between the engine/transmission area and the rear axle area of the frame. (Visualize a guitar string.)You can get into the bed of the truck and stand directly over the rear axle and jump up and down, and you will find that it is almost impossible to make the same vibration that you can easily achive by applying pulsating pressure to the bumper or open tailgate. I thought about the idea of attaching some sort of weight to the rear bumper area, but as I considered the idea, I realized that this would only change the frequency of the vibration, but would not dampen it. It might even make the vibration more intense in the cab. So I thought about the idea of somehow canceling out the harmonics of the frame by creating a dampening device with a slightly different harmonic frequency attached to the area of the frame behind the rear axle as close to the bumper as possible. The logic here is that if you could CAUSE the frame to vibrate from this point, then it should be possible to DAMPEN the vibration from the same point. I decided to use the spare tire for this purpose so as not to ncrease the weight of the vehicle. I lowered the spare tire a few inches from the frame, and I cut out two peices of high density rubber foam and placed them in between the tire and the part of the frame that the tire is pressed against. I then retightened the tire to where the foam was snug between the tire and the frame. (The tire should be tight enough that it does not rattle.) This setup allowed the tire to
NEW PROBLEM!!! I have a 2007 5.7 double cab. I was having a problem when i accelerate the truck is surging and bucking. Almost like it cant find a gear. I brought it to the dealer and they ordered a new computer for it from Japan that took almost a month to get. They installed it today and its still doing the same thing. But not as bad though. This apparently is not the first case. At this point the dealer has no clue what to tell me. They waiting on toyota techs to figure it out. Anyone else having this problem. It only happens during hard acceleration. This may end up being a recall. I am so dissappointed with this truck so far!! I am ready to trade it in. I am sorry i got rid of my 2004 tundra for this one.
I find it interesting that Jose, who stated that those posting problems for us owners to review were WINERS, is now in a position of seeming like a winer himself about his list of problems.
It is also annoying to have a doubting cheerleader like Justin around. Thought the post from Nachy Valledor would shut you up, but you obviously have some pleasure from your blog hopping. You don’t own the truck, and your post quota has been exceeded here.
I have had small annoying issues in $100k cars and appreciate the time dedicated members of this site take to share the issues they have. I have an ’07 5.7 Crewmax LTD and share in the reluctance to have others in my new truck due to the shake on the highway at 65mph. My truck also has trouble finding gears, seems like it is between 1st and 2nd when in 4wd. Thanks for the posts since this gives checks and balances to the service departments.
Tundra Owner: Thanks for the post, just a little FYI.
You state I’m a doubting cheerleader, but if you have read all my posts, through the various different threads, you’d notice I give the Tundra credit where due, but don’t buy into the fact the Tundra is the best 1/2 ton on the road simply due to the 5.7L’s 381hp & 0-60 time. Chevy and Dodge have claimed the most HP or fastest 0-60 for years prior, but this never proved they were the best trucks on the road. I will point out the facts, just like I do with other makes, such as the lack of high end HP for Ford, ground clearance for GM models, rear end failures for the Titan and the overall fit & finish of Rams for just a few. Each make has their goods and bads, but one problem nor one good point make one truck better than the other. It’s all about the entire truck, not just one item.
NV had his/her valid points, which I don’t agree or disagree with all. Some are very valid, some may be slightly off the mark. NV’s had his/her issues with domestic products, which I do understand. I’ve had a ’99 domestic SUV that was a money pit, but have also had a ’93 japanese import car that was a money pit as well. So it’s hit or miss some times on the make/model and the actual reliability. Every make has it’s lemons and it’s flawless vehicles, which I think we’ve all been on both sides of that road before.
Personally, I buy what I like, is reliable and has a proven track record. This leads to why in almost every thread I’ve posted in, states I will never purchase a 1st and usually a 2nd model year, since it lacks the track record and reliability.
Now the release of every 1st year model has it’s issues, this you can’t deny. We’ll just have to see how Toyota improves upon these 1st year results. Now in ‘2009, I may just look at the Tundra, being it will be 3 years into this model. Ford & Dodge will be releasing new 1/2 tons mid to late ’08, so depending I might wait to judge all 1/2 tons again until late ’09 or ’10.
I’ve driven every ’07 1/2 ton on the market, which each has some very valid reasons to be #1, but also many issues that bring it back to the pack. Sure I’d love some more behind the wheel time of them all, but after multiple drives and rides in each, I have a good idea on how each stack up against one another.
Thanks for you opinion and for trying to call me out, but heck, every person with blinders on from every forum I’ve posted on, has tried to. I don’t get mad, I could care less. Just prefer people go into their buying experience with an open mind. Don’t go buy an F150 cause it’s the #1 selling vehicle in N.A. for 30+ years, don’t go buy a Silverado because it offers the most car like ride and best MPG (5.3L V8), don’t go by the Tundra because of Toyota’s famed reliability, you could come out finding you purchased the wrong truck for what you were intending to use it for. This is my point, cars are cars, they are people movers. Trucks have many more configurations and applications, making it much more difficult to find the right truck for what you want/need it for. This is the problem with all the former car drivers that are now buying trucks, they don’t know all aspects of a truck and it’s capabilities. Most are simply buying them for transportation, not for their intended purpose. So most trucks on the road anymore won’t see a trailer behind them, any kind of load other than say a set of ski’s or groceries in the bed.
My 07 Tundra has a 26.4 gallon tank, but when the gauge and the DTE calculator says I am at empty, I can still only put 19.5 gallons in it. Toyota City in Brooklynn Park MN says there is nothing wrong with this, but I find that hard to believe. Can anyone tell me if this is normal?
Mike — check out this post:
https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2007/10/23/toyota-tundra-fuel-gauge-questions/
We addressed that exact question just a couple of months ago.
Mike,
I guess you can say that is the only problem I have…Like you The most I ever put in my Crewcab was 21.3 gallons…This after I ran 10 miles on empty according to the gauge that states how many miles you have left… Knowing this to me is a safety net when traveling….
You people complaining about the Toyota need to stop and suck it up. Do you want Toyota to keep making trucks? Then stop! The tailgate is YOUR problem – you need to distribute your load properly when loading your truck. You aren’t supposed to walk on it like some redneck Ford owner. If you’re going to load heavy stuff like hay in it, take it off like Toyota recommends!
The camshaft issue is old news. If you haven’t had your motor replaced yet, then do it! You’ll get something nice like a Camry to drive around – big deal.
Vibration? Get a clue, all trucks vibrate. If yours has the torque converter problem, you’ll get a recall notice in the mail if not already. This only affects 10% of the Tundras out there. Again, you’ll get a nice loaner.
Bed bounce? Please. Since when has bed bounce in a truck been an issue? It’s a truck for god’s sake. Some of you need to grow up and stop being girly men.
Painted dashboard? Who cares if the dashboard is painted plastic? It’s easier to repaint that way – if you scuff it up, just have a can of spray paint handy.
As for the rest of the inane comments on this flawless truck, please, just get a life.
Just thought I’d check in. My 2007 5.7L Crewmax LTD 4X4 is still going strong at 18,000 miles no concerns or failed parts. My fleet now is 5 5.7L Tundras strong and they too are rolling along with no issues. Maybe I’m just lucky with my Tundras unfortunately my luck doesn’t run with me into the casinos who knows maybe it just the truck. By the way from reading the comments above I’m a 43 year old male full of what I like to call testundrarone (testosterone get it!). Toyota Still Moving me Forward and out of the Service Department times 6. I don’t miss Ford at all but the Ford Service Department definitely misses me and my wallet………..
“You people complaining about the Toyota need to stop and suck it up. Do you want Toyota to keep making trucks? Then stop! The tailgate is YOUR problem – you need to distribute your load properly when loading your truck. You aren
I have an 07 Tundra reg cab 5.7 4X4 that I purchased in Aug I now have 6300 miles on it. The only problem I have had was a vibration at about 2000 miles. I took the truck to the dealer and they balanced the tires and aligned it. This fixed the problem. I also would like to add that the customer service was great.
I am not sure what to say about the rest of the issues that I have read on this blog. I guess I’m to busy enjoying and driving my truck than complaining about it. If I wanted a vehicle to ride smooth and drive likes a car I would have bought a car. Instead I purchased a truck.
I feel the most over exaggerated complaint is the bed bounce. Once again, you own a truck. The solution is…HAUL SOMETHING!!! And while you
Vibration
Im starting to think the problem may be a combination of a number of things
I recently put a new set of tires on my crewmax
Bf Goodrich 285/65/r20
the vehicle rides much better vibration almost gone entirely
also did the high density foam over the spare tire
D
Hay Mike
you sound like an idiot, maybe you should have some koolaid 🙂
Justin, Mike,
For Justin it’s not only the 1st and 2nd year a vehicle has all the bugs in it. The 06 Silverado I had was out 3 years and came out with a defective headliner and tail light. Known fact. Hence all GM owners carry duct tape to hold up items mentioned. Mike the only thing I agree with you about Toyota is that the guages are like the Ford’s, what is the temp guage set at? GM does have guages with the numbers not C and H. I have over 13,000 and had the truck 6 months. Traveled many miles very comfortable. If you don’t like the set up in the way the vehicle looks on the inside you’re not going to buy it anyway…You don’t need to tell me if the tailgate or the bed bounce is a serious problem. I have yet to have either. Also I don’t travel with my tailgate down unless it’s under a load. Mythbusters shown that the tailgate down makes you gas mileage go down. Hard top, soft top didn’t improve or you lost mpg. Only the airgate improved gas mileage. So why drive with it down. Personally I had a 03 F-150 with its computer problems and Ford blaming it on Lowjack. Which lowjack was sold in their aftermarket products. Gas mileage was only 16 on the hwy and 16 in the city. The 06 Silverado rode very good also, but lacked the power. This is not to mention 2 weeks after purchasing headliner was down on all doors. I found this on 2 out of 4 trucks at 2 other dealership lots for sale as new. Justin can explain that one. Besides guages and mirror action that was all GM had going for it. I guess I’m one of the very few that got a truck that was flawless in the last 6 months. I’m past being happy. An 03 F-150 in the shop 24x in 3 years is way too much for me, an 06 GM in the shop 16x in 15 months is way too much. By the way Justin When I traded the GM in I left the roll of duct tape for the future owner of the troubled truck. I have to say if I thought of what Lisa did I think that would helped me alot.
MY 07’TUNDRA CREWMAX IS ONLY GETTING 13.4MPG ALREADY HAVE OVER 8,000 MILES ON IT. IF I DRIVE A LOT ON THE FREEWAY THE BEST I GET IS 13.8MPG, BUT I DRIVE IN THE CITY MOST OF THE TIME. MY FRIEND JUST BOUGHT A TRUCK LIKE MINE BUT AN SR5 AND HE IS GETTING OVER 17MPG AND 19MPG ON THE FREEWAY WHAT GIVES IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG WITH MINE I THOUGHT THEY WERE ADVERTISED AT 16 AND 20MPG. KEEP IN MIND I DRIVE NORMAL NO HARD ACCELERATIONS OR NOTHING LIKE THAT IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG WITH MY TRUCK?
MY 07?TUNDRA CREWMAX IS ONLY GETTING 13.4MPG ALREADY HAVE OVER 8,000 MILES ON IT. IF I DRIVE A LOT ON THE FREEWAY THE BEST I GET IS 13.8MPG, BUT I DRIVE IN THE CITY MOST OF THE TIME. MY FRIEND JUST BOUGHT A TRUCK LIKE MINE BUT AN SR5 AND HE IS GETTING OVER 17MPG AND 19MPG ON THE FREEWAY WHAT GIVES IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG WITH MINE I THOUGHT THEY WERE ADVERTISED AT 16 AND 20MPG. KEEP IN MIND I DRIVE NORMAL NO HARD ACCELERATIONS OR NOTHING LIKE THAT IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG WITH MY TRUCK?
That’s about what I get in town. I have a 4X4. Is your truck 4 wheel drive? I have a friend that has a 2 wheel drive and he gets about 2-3 MPGs better. In town I get about 13-15 and on the highway I get about 17-19. I have noticed that the fuel mileage is very dependant on how far down you push on the gas pedal. I am not very upset with my fuel mileage because I know I have a bunch of ponies to feed. I suggest you take your truck on a road trip and burn a full tank of gas on the interstate and then compare with other trucks. It
Owner, John,
I have a Crewmax Limited and I put in an AFE cold air breather which changed my mpg from 17-18 to 19.5 mpg. I have 13,000 on the 5.7. When I do 55 – 60 is where I get my best mpg. I travel at least 25 miles by interstate one way. I also have a soft top on the bed and mostly drive with all four windows and back window down, and the sunroof opened.
Beside my seatbelt tension being way to tight, my 07 Ltd Dblcab 5.7 4×4 is awesome.
I’ve had none the problems others have complained about on this board. This truck beats the pants off the domestics.
My dealer has acknowledged some problems exist with the Tundra, yet only with a fraction of a percent of Tundra’s sold.
If this board is any indication, there are 191 posts as of this writing, yet most posters have posted multiple times, meaning only 80 or so owners have posted issues. Not bad at all for a truck with over 100,000 sold and on the road.
Mike Y,
I agree with you…Enough said…
80 complaints out of 191 posts is a pretty big percentage.(41%)If this is a % of how many of these Tundra’s have problems Toyota is in a world of trouble.
You can rest assured that maybe only 1/2% of all Tundra owners even know about this site.
To complaint 184 / Mike
I guess I am a redneck. I have stood on tailgates all my life (substantial number of years) and never had one crater on me. Every extended load I have ever carried the tailgate was down. Toyota made a mistake and they will hopefully correct it with newer models. Yes, I own a 2007 Tundra and I checked the tailgate after hearing of the complaints. It does appear to be a little flimsy.
GT
Sorry Mike,
The earlier comment was meant for whoever wrote the garbage about tailgates and other issues.
GT
Mike S,
Like you said 1/2 equals 50,000 know of this site an 80 out of 50,000 doesn’t equate to the figure you’re wishing for…
I’ve got a 2006 Tundra Crewmax, 4×4, limited, TRD. After reading the post, I guess either I’m lucky or it just hasn’t happened to me yet. I’ve got about 5500 miles, and no vibration or bed hop.
So far, I’m happy with the truck. I’m off road almost every weekend–hunting in the winter, on the beach in the summer. Performance is much better than my previous Chevy Z-71. Towing my 8000 lbs boat is great–brakes are much better than Ford/Chevy.
I have noticed these issues/problems:
A/C vents don’t stay in a fixed position.
Inner tailgate is way too thin.
Paint scratches too easily. I’m careful when washing my cars/trucks, but my Tundra already has “spider-webs” in the paint.
Gauge lighting is shit in bright sun.
I wish the “auto” tilt steering wheel feature could be reprogrammed to tilt up and in with the engine off, but key left in ignition. I live in the country and leave the keys in the ignition, but the tilt stays in the down position until you pull the keys out.
Not bad problems, I’m still pleased I made the decision to go Toyota.
Shelton? Toyota did not make a 06 Crew max? That Name is for 07’s and newer. I would like to know from the readers, How does the truck Tow? How is the 4X4 working. Do you guys like all of the Safety feature’s (that are not available on the BIG 3) What does the VVT-I thing do? And has anyone heard of the Crew Max coming out w/ a 6.5″ Bed in 09?
Oh by the way, MERRY CHRISTMAS and HAPPY NEW YEAR.
Kodman…Sorry. I meant 2007, not 2006–typo.
The truck tows great. I pull about 9500 lbs with boat and trailer. While towing, off the line acceleration and braking are impressive compared to my previous trucks (chevy silverado and suburban). Very nice in heavy traffic
I use the 4×4 every weekend and the biggest difference I see vs. my silverado and suburban is the power, especially in mud and sand.
Another thing I’m happy with is the comfort in the backseat. You can actually enjoy a long trip in this truck. But in the crewmax, you sacrifice the bed length. I usually only haul fishing or hunting items, so I really don’t have a need for a long bed. However, there are times when I wish the bed was longer, hauling lawn tractors, 4 wheelers, fire wood, etc…
I think power is the overall biggest difference I’ve noticed.
Safety features?? I guess they’ll be nice if I crash!?! I have to turn the “rollover” system off when I go 4 wheeling in the mountains so the side airbags don’t go off–so recommends the owners manual. Is that the VVT-I?
I had planned on buying another Chevy, but once I drove the Toyota, bought it immediately. I take care of the truck, but I’m pretty rough on it. I tow and 4×4 a a lot– I hope the problems others are having don’t creep up on me.
Merry Christmas!
“Like you said 1/2 equals 50,000 know of this site an 80 out of 50,000 doesn
Mike S,
You stated about half Tundra owners know about this site. As of the end of November 177,000 Tundra trucks sold. 50,000 is less than half. 80 out of that 50,000 isn’t a high %. Now if these 80 will go to NHTSB site and list this complaint we will get somewhere. NHTSB will investigate the safety of the bed bounce and force Toyota into a recall. I currently don’t have this problem but I still check out that site along with ODI to see if they are investigating the bed bounce and tailgate issues… This site is good for both information and misinformation. Mike what gets me being a first time Toyota owner is that the amount of people on this site who don’t own a Tundra putting in their views.. Whether true facts or not it comes down to this they don’t own a Tundra… I owned the other 2 brands and had terrible times with them. As far as I’m concerned they’re in the past and I’m moving on. Actually I stumbled onto this site looking for other Tundra owners who like to meet and show off the trucks and do different things, like the camaro club which I used to be in until I sold mine because of GM.
I have owned my 07 CrewMax 4X4 Limited for 2 months, 2K miles with no problems whatsoever. Very happy with my purchase.
Mickey,
I said 1/2 of 1%. I never said 1/2 of all Tundra owners. Look at my math. Why does it bother you that I comment without actually owning a Tundra? I want one but I’m not buying into the current build so I’m going to wait.
You should be happy that us on the fence buyers are demanding that Toyota steps up to the plate and builds the Tundra like they built vehicles in the past.
Believe me this new rushed to market truck with the faulty drivetrain and all it’s other issues is nothing like the Toyota vehicles of the past.
I really like the truck, but after hearing about some of the first year woes, I may wait for an 09. plus I just read consumer report’s verdict of the 07 4wd tundra – requires more repairs than average and is not recommended. ironically the 2wd version recieved top marks. but who wants a 2wd truck anyway?
Mike,
Understand, thanks for the clarification. I do admit Toyota didn’t have everything I liked which was on the silverado I had. Personally I really hate the letters vice numbers when it comes to guages. GM does that right. Other good factors was when I put the silverado in reverse the computer would set the mirrors to curb site. Very useful when parking next to a curb. That I thought was a personnal touch from GM. Toyota doesn’t offer that. But the problems from GM and Ford pushed me away from them. I was never a Dodge or Nissan fan and Honda doesn’t build a truck. So I was left checking out Toyota and I needed a truck right away. I finally can say with this one I’ve been fortunate with no problems @ 14,000 miles. I hope those who have the issue to go to NHTSB and complain. You can complain to Toyota or any manufacturer and they can listen and listen without any remorse and push off doing a recall as I was done with the headlliner issue and GM. They admit it’s a defect but they aren’t obligated to do that recall. The National Highway Transportation Safety Board can force Toyota to do this recall. This is for Mark, Sorry you get what you want in a 4wd. I haven’t had a problem pulling my boat or anything else with a 2wd. Not to mention ever getting stuck. You can pay the gas while I’m getting 20 mpg.
I purchased an 07 tundra XSP in sept. It has 1600 miles on it and I have it in the shop for the second time in three weeks.There are two problems I’ve encountered. The first is the so called poorly designed gauges continuously fail to operate. They come and go at will. Complaint number 63 on this site describes exactly what is happening to me.Only fuel and volts read.When they do come back on several instrument lights do as well. Problem number two is THAT ANNOYING DIESEL SOUND. I traded my 2005 F350 on this tundra and I have regret. I’m considering as a public service putting a sign in the bed of my truck warning prospective buyers. If the bed can support a sandwich board sign! My dealer in panama city Florida says that there aren’t any reports of these mentioned problems and that they’d take care of it. Well that was the last time I took it in a week and a half ago,it’s back in the shop. I should inform them of this site because they assure me my truck is the only one with these unheard of problems. Thank all of you for you’re entries cause I thought I was all alone with the only lemon on the lot. Oh yeah on my paperwork it states that my gauges were fixed,it was poorly grounded or loose wiring. The took a cluster from a new tundra on the lot and had the same failure. Number two which is the scary problem, the diesel gas hybrid engine. They said it was normal valve clearance to allow for heat expansion. Yeah my butt.That was a stall tactic til they could figure out how to recall all these knocking Gas diesel hybrid sure not to last pieces of junk! Gauges still don’t work. Toyota did say if they couldn’t fix it they’d trade me for another vehicle. Wow! Other than that it is a nice truck !
Mike
Sorry to hear about your problems with your truck. I have the 07 Crewmax Limited and haven’t had a problem here in Jax, Florida. Since you are in Florida you have to go into the shop the 3rd time and then file with the BBB for the Lemon Law. They will side with the automaker to give them the 4th and final try. I went through this with an 06 Silverado with a headliner issue. Now once you go through Arbitration with Toyota and they give Toyota one more try you have 30 days for the problem to happen again for the BBB to handle it or they will close the case and you will have to go through the state DA. I wish you luck if you go that way. At least from what you say Toyota’s willing to replace your truck with another. GM and Ford told me to take a hike.
I had troubles with my NEW o7 Tundra…I posted my experience here at comment #160. I will repost here as well as tell ALL 2007 TUNDRA owners that Toyota posted on their Yahoo financial website that if “ANY” 2007 Tundra truck owner be dissatisfied they would BY IT BACK! I don’t know how true this is…but it was posted on Dec 7th. That was within a few days after we were upgraded UP TO A 2008 MODEL. I was very Dissapointed how that TOYOTA did NOT want to make things right…but the DEALER did! I took Action! The more people take action and take a firm stand Toyota will either be FORCED to do a recall and make it right and Stand behind their trucks! Here is my earlier post…
Okay I had not read anything about the
I had troubles with my NEW o7 Tundra…I posted my experience here at comment #160. Please read it you may benifit from it! As well as tell ALL 2007 TUNDRA owners that Toyota posted on their Yahoo financial website that if “ANY” 2007 Tundra truck owner be dissatisfied they would BY IT BACK! I don’t know how true this is…but it was posted on Dec 7th. That was within a few days after we were upgraded UP TO A 2008 MODEL. I was very Dissapointed how that TOYOTA did NOT want to make things right…but the DEALER did! I took Action! The more people take action and take a firm stand Toyota will either be FORCED to do a recall and make it right and Stand behind their trucks!
FYI to all. Looks like there may be problems with the front seats of the ’07 Tundra when rear ended. Seems there have been reports and pictures posted of the seats buckling back over themselves.
I’ve got copies of the pictures if anyone would like to view them.
HEY JUSTIN I WOULD LIKE TO SEE THOSE PICS
…And now, its the breaking driveshafts….
Jose: Can’t post pics to this site, so email me at: co303denver@yahoo.com and I’ll send them over.
Lisa,
I wish I thought of your idea when I had my problems with my 03 F-150 and 06 Silverado. Both within 2 weeks of owning them had problems. The “Buy Back program is called a “Repurchase” which a dealership gives you trade-in value or what they’re doing now is called auction value. Auction value turns out to be roughly $2,000 plus depending on vehicle less than what yo would get for Kelly Blue book or NADA for trade-in. If you owe more than that, you loose that amount and they tack on that to your new purchase. I think what you did was perfect in pushing a dealership into your bargaining table. Everyone should put these problems to the NHTSB who is a government firm to watchdog the automakers. The vibration and tailgate problems are safety issues in which they can act on. Unlike my headliner issues I had with the silverado.
07 Tundra 4×4 5.7 double cab, long bed. We have 1200 miles, same vibration noise, dealer replaced the torque converter yesterday. No noise until my husband drove it back home last night. We will be taking it back today. Will update you asap.
UPDATE: I took the tundra in yesterday to the Toyota of kingsport in kingsport tn, and they took it for a drive and told me that they thought it was a misaligned drive shaft. The said it was hard to line up exact, so they have to try to match the best they can. took it for a test drive, and no more noise. Problem solved:). They are very nice there and said, “There will be recalls, but don’t worry, Toyota will fix them.” That is the nicest that I have ever been treated in my life. I had a 2005 kia sorento, but had multiple problems with it and never got fixed. Grindstaff kia was so rude and always played deaf to the noises and problems. I love my tundra.
UPDATE: I took the tundra in yesterday to the Toyota of kingsport in kingsport tn, and they took it for a drive and told me that they thought it was a misaligned drive shaft. The said it was hard to line up exact, so they have to try to match the best they can. took it for a test drive, and no more noise. Problem solved:). They are very nice there and said, “There will be recalls, but don’t worry, Toyota will fix them.” That is the nicest that I have ever been treated in my life. I had a 2005 kia sorento, but had multiple problems with it and never got fixed. Grindstaff kia was so rude and always played deaf to the noises and problems. I love my tundra.
Mike Murpy, I have the same diesel sound. See my posts #’s 54 & 79. Can you imagine what this engine sounds like in the morning here in Massachusetts with our recent 8 degree weather? On a lighter note, I have all the neighbors fooled, thinking I have a prototype Tundra diesel hybrid.
I have had an 2007 Tundra 2wd crewmax limited,put 18,000 miles on it-did not cut it any slack-ran it hard-did not have ANY PROBLEMS-traded to 2007 TRD 4wd crewmax,have put 12,0000 miles on it.I treat this one no different than the 1st truck-you could not pay me to get a different truck. I had a 2005 f250 6.0 diesel it lived at the dealer! Very happy with my truck!
I have a 07 Tundra 4×4, 5.7L after the 1st oil change (5k)I noticed that diesel noise. I have taken it to the dealer and the claim is normal engine noise. That’s bull. I didn’t had it before, and at 12k miles it’s getting louder even though after driving it for 3-5 miles it becomes lower but the noise never goes away.Besides that anoying sound the truck is excellent.If any body had this problem resolve please let me know.
I can absolutely echo what #222 says. Initially, my Tundra with the 5.7 engine had no noises. My truck now has 5800 miles and the “diesel” and “ticking” noises just keep getting louder. My noises also diminish after driving a few miles, but they never go away.
There just is no way that I can believe that these noises are normal. And even if they are “normal”, they are very annoying and, in my opinion, should not be there in a new vehicle. It is just not good business to sell a vehicle with these noises because all it is going to do is to cause ill will and unhappy customers.
Other than the engine noises, though, the truck has a lot of wonderful qualities. However, the engine noises more than offset all the other wonderful stuff and I would not have bought my Tundra if I had been aware that the engine would be so noisy.
[…] If he gloats about his wonder truck…..maybe you should print this out for him. All Known 2007 Toyota Tundra Problems | tundraheadquarters.com If I owned one of those pieces of crap, I would keep a low profile rather than advertise that i […]
Tried posting once, here we go again. Have over 2000 miles on my 07 Tundra Crewmax Limited. Not one problem yet. I have read every post here and try to find something wrong. This is my first pick up and I don’t beat my truck up however I don’t baby it either. Very happy and will continue to monitor this site for new problems others are having, realizing how lucky I am
Jim
Back again. I recently posted as 208.Toyota called me 010408 and told me that after a week of tests all they could conclude was that my computer was to blame for the problems I was having. Faulty gauges and Diesel noises. Anyway they offered a loaner til mon 010708.They have an employee driving my truck this weekend to test it out. I assume all of us have bad computers!!! Anyway we will see tomorrow. Mr Robert Lee, I sympathize with you. In panama city it has only dropped into the 40’s the days I’ve had my truck. Toyota usually has it more than me. I can only imagine what you’re truck must sound like in 8 degrees! You know the thing that chaps my butt is the dealership is towing the company line of We haven’t heard of these problems and the noises are normal! In a new KIA maybe. I also suspect that the zealots on this site are probably company employees ! There are more than a few here that seem a bit offended when you describe you’re problems.To those with tailgate problems I’m not surprised. I’m a good sized guy and when I stepped on the tailgate to get in the back of the truck to clean it I could feel it give. Thats not an issue with any of the trucks I’ve ever had. That has been many. Good luck everybody. Mike
Mike Murphy,
Please keep us informed of your computer replacement. It would be interesting to find out the reason for the diesel sound was actually pre-ignition knock caused by a defective computer and not piston slap.
Hey Mike,
I feel for you about your truck. I went through the computer game with my F-150. First they ordered a new one and replace it. Then my truck missfired at the #5 cylinder. They put the old one in and the truck ran fine but it still gave a check engine light for sensors. Then they tried replacing it with a computer from another truck on the lot. Same results missfired on #5 cylinder. They blamed Lojack and moved the Lojack computer without notifying Lojack or myself. After trying again with another computer same results then I was told two things. They stated upfront they couldn’t fix the problem. Then told me they moved Lojack to see if the computer work but didn’t. By them moving it they did 2 things, one bent the fiber optic cable causing it not to work at all. 2nd voided my warranty on Lojack. After 9x of trying to fix the truck they ordered me a new truck. I was happy about that. 10 days before the truck came in a factory rep came in to work on my truck. I was asked to bring it in. One week prior the factory rep fixed the truck and the computer problem. When the new truck arrived and I came in to trade my truck in all bets were off. They stated my truck was fixed and I won’t get a new one. We went round after round and Ford wouldn’t honor the new truck lemon law or not. This is why I got rid of the truck never again and I don’t care if Ford has the better truck or not. Customers don’t need to be treated this way. So no longer a Ford owner. So Mike if you don’t get good results on the replacement I don’t blame you to find another automaker.
Got my tundra back today with the new computer. I only drove 5 miles to my house and had no gauge failures.Robert Lee you read my mind on the pre-ignition possibility. Toyota had this to say about the noise the first time.”Checked engine noise.Found normal valve train noise caused by clearance for heat expansion” Now this time my ticket reads “checked for tapping noise during start up found normal tap due to short piston skirts.Also verified with tech assist on noise”. The faulty gauges are reportedly fixed by replacing part number 44050-0C160 brake actuator assembly(ABS module/ECU. Truck still has engine noise and I can’t believe it is healthy or “normal” as toyota would have us believe.Well I don’t know what to due other than drive it till it breaks! It sure doesn’t inspire piece of mind hearing all this noise from the engine of a truck with 1702 miles on it.
Mike Murphy,
Thanks for the update.I will keep you informed of any changes or additional information I get regarding the diesel noise in my truck.
Engine noise:
In the past 2 weeks I rented two tundra 5.7 pickups to compare the engine noise to mine. Both 2007 models.
Both trucks had the same noise like mine when I crank the engine in the morning and put it in drive. One of them had 14,560 miles and it was conisderably louder than mine. The other had 7,890 miles and it sounded pretty much like mine. I don’t like it but I have learned to live with it.
Hey Folks,
Any info on whether this diesel noise applies to the 2008 Tundra’s? I’m hoping they fixed this problem by now especially due to the new Sequoia’s being released. They’re based on the same engine. Last thing you want to hear while your kid’s sleeping in the back seat is loud engine noise.
Anyway, I’m looking at special ordering a Tundra next week. Just wondering if there’s problems with 08’s as well.
Thanks.
Mark
Any info on whether this diesel noise applies to the 2008 Tundra’s? I’m hoping they fixed this problem by now especially due to the new Sequoia’s being released. They’re based on the same engine. Last thing you want to hear while your kid’s sleeping in the back seat is loud engine noise.
Anyway, I’m looking at special ordering a Tundra next week. Just wondering if there’s problems with 08’s as well.
Thanks.
Mark
I’m looking at special ordering a Tundra next week. Just wondering if there’s problems with 08’s as well.
Thanks.
Mark
I have a 2007 tundra crewmas 5.7. my problems were the torque converter, steering wheel pulled to the right, right front passenger door speaker was loose and a wind noise came in thru that door..i purchased the truck 3 hours away from where I live because my local dealer didn’t have what I was looking for. So I purchased the truck somewhere else, when the problems came up I took it to my local dealer so they could help me out, when I told them about the torque the service manager looked at me like I was dumb and he told me not to read anything on the internet, he said my problem was my tires, but then a few minutes later he got a call from Toyota manager and told him it was my torque which made him look stupid, he told me he would get back with me as soon as Toyota released a bulletin so that I could bring the truck in so that they could fix it, but he thank me for showing him the problem that way he would know how to help “my customers” from what he said. So that gave me the hint that he did not want to help me since I did not purchase the truck there. I gave him a couple of weeks but till this day I haven’t heard back from him. I emailed the dealer in Grapevine Texas where I purchased the truck and explained the problems I had, the same day the service assistant manager gave a call and told me that the bulleting for the torque had been out for a couple of weeks and that he would go ahead and order me one and all I had to do was let them know when I could drop off the truck and they were going to get me a rent a truck for me. The next day the service manager called me to let me know that the part was in and to set up an appointment, I did and a couple days later I dropped off the truck and they kept it for 4 days for all the different things they had to fix. When I picked it up as soon as I drove off the dealer I could tell the diffrence with the new torque, and they took care of my problems. I’ve had it for a month now and now problems so far, this is a good truck and the dealer in Grapevine Texas took care of me.
Luis,
I’m happy for you. had a similar problem with my 06 Silverado and ABS system. The rear end would vibrate hard every time I put on the brakes. Took it to the dealership I bought it at 40 miles away and they charged me $100 for an adjustment. Two weeks later I couldn’t take the vibration no longer I took it to a dealership 5 miles away and they charged me $200 for turning the brake rotors and told me that I would have to go back to the original dealership for the money I paid them to fix the problem and was told more than likely I wouldn’t get anything but grief. Right he was. Three weeks later vibration showed it’s ugly head again and I decided to loose $7000 and trade the problem in for a Tundra. It’s hard to find as I told my original dealership competent mechanics here. I’m glad Gravevine helped you.
mickey pitre works for toyota. Gets paid buy Toyota.
Hacker,
Glad you are so knowledgeable. I never worked for Toyota and This 07 happens to be my first along with my wife’s Prius. In fact Hacker I went through GM school in 1976 and worked at Chevy dealers through 77 in the Trim shop. As you read my posts you see I was a die hard fan of GM till I was let down very badly by the automaker. You like some of the other people on this site will have to accept that Ford and GM fell to Toyota. Nascar has seen it in the truck series and very soon with Joe Gibbs the cars will be the same. I will take a picture of my tonneau cover on the back of my Crewmax so you can see what I mean. It has “THE NEW (TOYOTA SYMBOL) HEARTBEAT OF AMERICA”. I’m glad to display it. The best truck I owned to date was the cheapest. A 98 Chevy 3rd door Silverado. In the shop twice. First at 800 miles to replace the fan motor on the A/C. Next was the A/C Compressor at 98,585 miles. This truck would get 22 mpg @ 80 with the A/c on. If it wasn’t totaled in 2003 I would still have it. The next 2 trucks don’t compare to it. Now this Tundra has been performing greatly. At 15,000 just this last issue of the mirror. The money paid for this Toyota paid for 2 of those 98 chevy’s and I expect twice as much out of this truck. I tell you Toyota won’t stay on top if they don’t deal with these issues. Customers will abandon them. If that’s a company man Hacker I’m sorry for you. Hate to disappoint you but I’m a 21 year retired Navy man.
Well I made a comment on #235, but I’ve noticed some problems with the truck, I was happy cause I thought I didn’t have any more problems with the truck but I was wrong, I had the torque converter replaced which was giving me ther rumble strip feel when driving between 35-40 now I get the transmission shifting the gear hard and it doesn’t sound or feel normal, but it doesn’t do it all the time. The other issue when driving slow down a hill the transmission will shift the gear to low to the point you can fell the pull from the it shifting to low and the engine running louder. I’ve email my service guy this morning waiting from him to reply about it. But has anyone else heard anything like this or have this issue before and had it fixed, let us know. But other then that the truck is great since I travel a lot..but let me know thanks..
Has anyone heard about the ticking sound, I’ve been told to put a diffrent type of oil and it will make it go away, has anyone heard anything or have the same issue.?
Luis wrote, “The other issue when driving slow down a hill the transmission will shift the gear to low to the point you can fell the pull from the it shifting to low and the engine running louder.” Normal operation of the grade logic, and one of my favorite features. Honda has had this for years. Toyota is finally catching up and has this on the Tundra and 08 Highlander.
I spoke of this early.. or maybe in another blog but I agree that it down shifts TOO far causing me to lunge forward in my seat. If it does this downshift on ice someone will be in trouble.
Also, it did it to me while towing approx 6k lbs (tow/haul on). With the added weight behind the truck, alarms litterally went off. beeping noises, horible grind. I think it was the limited slip dif freaking out but it scared the hell out of me as I was going downhill curving to the left into a low water crossing with 6k behind me pushing. Trailer has brakes btw.
I saw on another sight that said if you drive with the shifter in the S position instead of D it will not do the auto down shift. I have not tried that yet.
Love the truck! Thanks for the bigger engine Toyota!
t
Yea mickey GM school in 76 toyota school in 96, right!
Sorry Luvme,
96 I was stationed aboard USS Theodore Roosevelt CVN-71 and 6 months of those overseas.
I have a 07 tundra double cab 4×4 5.7L and experience a knocking or clunking sound when I go over a speed bump at low speeds. Thought maybe the spare tire was loose but it seems solid. Has anyone heard these noises? Thanks
Hello everyone. I’m just checking back in to let anyone with gauge malfunctions know that a new computer did not help! It also did nothing for the engine noise.I still have a tapping motor and yesterday I was brave enough to help a friend move back from Jacksonville here to Panama city. I was about forty miles out of town just getting on I-10 and the gauges died again.Earlier I said that the fuel and volts still worked. I was wrong. It seemed that the fuel gauge was reading each time the rest failed but that was on short trips around town. I realized at 100 miles or so that I was getting really good mileage,in fact the gauge hadn’t moved at all! I left my house at 6am and was at 1/4 tank and was going to fuel up when I stopped for breakfast. When I realized I had gone so far I stopped and turned the truck off and restarted it. This sometimes gets the gauges working again. I was on dead empty! So the fuel gauge hasn’t been working either.I called Toyota while on road and told them what was going on and they said the service manager would be there shortly and would call me to discuss the matter with me.Four hours later I called back and the service secretary put me off and asked if I could just bring it in on Mon. I guess he didn’t have the desire to hear about the piece of crap that they haven’t been able to fix after two previous attempts. After my trip the odometer now reads 2260 miles. Thats not accurate either. That also doesn’t work.I’m going back tomorrow at 3pm for a scheduled visit with the service manager in an attempt to resolve this. I am going to file lemon law as soon as get it back and it craps again. I will let them know that when I get there.I hope they’ll just find me another truck because I don’t have faith that this one is ever going to be fixed!`
Toyota Tundra. What is in a name? Only the reputation it carries from the people who own it! Toyota wake up and fix my F—ing piece of s– or give my money back. Better yet, just give back the 38,000 you scammed out of me with false advertisement. The biggest and baddest P.O.S. out there . Going back for the third visit tomorrow with the same old problems! Got to love the factory trained techs that work at my dealership!
Here in North Dakota we have lots of icy roads all winter long. My 2007 Crewmax LTD 4WD was great in the summer but when it started snowing, sleeting, etc I am forced to keep the pickup in 4WD due to the corny Limited Slip Differential. Try accelerating on ice and the brakes chatter, the engine power is reduced and nothing moves. Applying the LSD button allows the engine to run at full power but the differential still works poorly. It counts on the brakes to control wheel slipage which is fine under normal traction conditions. But on ice and snow I would rather have both rear tires pulling for me.
I am wondering if anyone knows of a true limited slip differntial available for the 2007 5.7 Tundra. Also if it only had full-time or auto 4WD like GM I would be happy. Any thoughts of putting the new Sequia transfer case in the Tundra?
My Tundra has over 12,000 miles and no problems except minor bed bounce. Cold engine noise is very similar to my brother-in-law’s Hemi MegaCab. Has anyone tried using a heavier oil? Spec calls for a very light oil. That might reduce the chatter.
I too had tailgate latch problems but it was due to my trying to seal the tailgate from dust. I have a bed cover and would like to keep the dust out of the box. Very hard to do as I have discovered. In the process I installed a weatherstripping that was too thick. This caused the latch to be very tight. When “forcing” the latch open the little plastic clips camme off. I needed to remove the access door to replace the little plastic clips. I have since wire-tied the plastic clips so they will not pop off as easily.
The only problem with hauling while the tailgate was open was when my son borrowed the big Tundra to haul some plywood. He said his “foot slipped” on the accelerator and the plywood fell onto the highway. Thankfully no one ran into the plywood. Anyone believe the “foot slipped” excuss?
I read in another blog here that if you put 2w 30 oil in the engine it will make the ticking sound go away a lot. I haven’t tried it on mine but what do you guys think?
Luis,
20w30 oil doesn’t make a difference. My dealer changed the oil at 3000 miles and replaced the factory oil with 20w30 and the engine still sounds like a diesel until it warms up. Toyota should send a memo to the dealers advising them that heavier engine oil will not lengthen the piston skirts
Hello again. I had an interesting phone call today from someone who I promised to keep off the record.I will say that I got lots of attention at my dealership when I mentioned lemon-law. This person said”The biggest mistake Toyota had made with the release of the Tundra was not being forthcoming about the noise in our engines” He explained that Toyota was well aware of the condition when they developed the 5.7 and that the reason you don’t hear it at first is because of the teflon type coating that they put on the pistons and other internal parts as a break-in lube which coincidentally(dampens sound)which someone thought might be a marketing benefit. He said it was a temporary coating designed to wear off as the parts break-in.The noise has been there throughout the development of the 5.7. He also stood behind this as one of the finest engines they have ever built but the noise was byproduct of they camshaft tensioners and wasn’t by any means a mechanical failure.As for my gauge problems they have admitted that they are well aware of this problem to and that their mistake with mine was not replacing the gauge cluster with the new computer as the cluster may be causing the voltage spike that is eating my computers. I was told at my dealership that if they didn’t fix it this time that they’d file lemon law for me! For now I have a nice Highlander as a loaner. Nice and small but good on gas.
Murphy,
It’s amazing how you mention Lemon law and they see the light, at least a little in both of my situations with Ford and GM. I went through arbitration against GM who never showed and only sent a letter “ADMITTING the DEFECT” but their great warranty would fix this. They wanted a final attempt to fix. This was after 6x already. Arbitrator sided with GM. Imagine that. But they gave me an option of “Repurchase or Replacement” if the attempt failed. Well another 2 more at 8x replacing waitng for new truck when I was told by the General Manager the top dawg at the dealership by email GM won’t replace a truck if it isn’t safety related like mechanically broke. Headliners don’t fall in this. The only step you can take to force anything was with the state DA. This was from lawyers who said I maybe lucky to get $1,500 if that much. Ford ordered me a new truck and 3 days before it arrived A factory rep wanted to try to fix it. Well he did and 3 days later I was told to take a hike no new truck. This was 10x to fix the computer. Replace computer truck misfired #5 cylinder. Original computer truck ran fine but check engine light kept coming on for emission in the 400 code. It seems you can’t win. Good luck and I hope you can get this settled.
I got my 07 tundra crew max limited 5.7liter 4×4 in december.Since then I have put 2300 miles on it. I am now getting 19 miles per gal. I do better if I keep under 55, up to 23 mpg. very pleased with overall preformance. I drove it from N.J. to Florida towing a boat trailor and did notice that in North Carolina for about 20 miles a bed bounce problem. The road was a worn strech of concrete on interstate 95. When the road surface changed the problem went away. I have not had any reoccurance since then. I was very concerned about this issue before I bought my tundra, mainly because of this site. I am glad I bought my truck…..Its the best one I have ever owned. I can’t help but wonder why so many people complain about so much. Did they never have any problems with domestic trucks. I find the tundra to be far superior to its competitors. I hope this note encourages others to look at Tundras seriously like I did……
My tundra is still doing ok since the torque converter was replaced. Speaking of Lemon Law, I have a suit in against KIA, and have been waiting almost a year to settle, Kia claims they have done nothing wrong and do not owe me anything. The lawyer said that Toyota is the easiest to deal with and they want to take care of the customer, and they try to make things right. If you are having problems, the best advice I can give is to write down every thing and keep all reciepts of calls, time and ect. Be sure to log who, when and were you called. I did not save this, and had to spend 3 weeks trying to catch up on stuff. I hope we all can resolve the problems with Toyota. I love my truck. Any suggestions on good places to buy alloy rims?
I have a 2007 Tundra 5.7.
No problems until winter set in.
After cold start up Engine makes a lot of
noise. It doesnt sound like a Diesel to me.
There is no rythm to the noise.
Sounds like a ball bearing flying around under the hood. It goes away after about 8 minutes of driving.
It finally got to 34 degrees here in Jax. The only thing I noticed when I leave my hous I hit a 4 lane road for a mile to I-95. In that distant my truck won’t shift into 6th gear. I was told it was because of the cold. Once I go onto the interstate it shifts and the temp guage has risen some. When it’s above 45 I don’t have this issue.
i’ve had my “07 DC limited” for 4 months now. i put almost 10k miles on it and
I MUST SAY I HAVE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS THAT EVERYONE HERE IS EXPERIENCING!
I TOW ABOUT 2K POUNDS DAILY AND DRIVE LOND DISTANCES ( 400-500 round trip)
i think some people here must be on there first truck coming from a passenger car and thats why they feel so much shacking or engine noise..
ITS NOT A LUXURY CAR!!
ITS A TRUCK
FOR ANYONE THAT MIGHT BE WONDERING..
limited 5.7L 4×4 loaded loaded
but just a work truck. right
Bruno, congradulations on you’re truck! I’ll list my truck ownership history to lend some meritt to my complaint. 76 datsun ,77 ford courier,75 f-100.77 dodge powerwagon 4×4,99 ford 5.4expedition,2005 6.0 diesel f-350 and last 2007 toyota tundra. Do vans count? That would almost double the above list.How about automobiles in general. I lost count at 50 which was a couple years ago.And bikes damn! My cousin owned a very large Yamaha dealership in Ga. and I got bikes a cost. I know this all sounds stupid but it is only to illustrate my experience with transportation and likely that of others on this site. So maybe you got one of the good ones! Good for you! Now for an update on my tundra. Since new steering angle sensor has been installed my computer is out of its shell. I’m getting over twice the fuel mileage and the truck seems more responsive. I pulled a tandum axle trailer with my Karmin Ghia on it and it did great! I got a call from Toyota on the way home a minute ago to check on my truck and I told them it seemed to being doing well (gauges) and despite the tapping noise all seemed well . The service manager was on the phone and he says his 07 has 11000 on it and his is louder than mine.As for now Toyota has no remedy. I guess if its not falling apart then I can live with it. It may rattle but it is still the fastest truck in my neighborhood. Good Luck everybody !
mike,
thanks and thats right our tundras are still the fastest trucks out there.. i ‘ll confirm that!
mike,
thanks and sorry to hear of your problems, maybe mine is just one of the good ones out there. and thats right our tundras are still the fastest trucks out there.. i ‘ll confirm that!
08 dbl cab 5.7. 150 miles. That ever present engine noise. yes at start up but also present at operating temp, just not as bad. I cant believe its normal.
Thanks mie murphy post 251 for the info.
I will watch listen and wait.
I wish I had my 05 4.7 crew again. Now that was a solid truck.
07 DBL CAB 5.7 5,000KMS got a problem with the autostart.Started the truck up at -38c with it plugged in off course and it shut down after only running a few seconds.My check engine light has been on since then although all the guages are within normal operating limits.Has anyone else experinced this trouble with a autostart.This is my first bit of trouble,the truck runs good awesome power and great on the gravel roads so far so good the dealer told me when I bought it I would never go back to a CHEVY again he is right so far.About the gas mileage getting 650kms on the highway to the tank wasn’t doing much better with my smaller and under powered 2002 singlecab 4.8 shortbox chevy with the same size tank besides if I was looking for gas mileage I would have bought the Honda Civic.
2007 DC limited has a morror defect. Bought the truck last monday and upon night driving the inner half of the mirror has a double vision (more so headlights stacking one above the other) to it when you see headlights behind you. It’s mostly seen on the innher half of this particular mirror and I am not sure if it’s related to the autodimmers. I took it to the dealership tonight and the mechanic saw exactly what I saw so he brought up a new crewmax…..we could both see the same thing in the mirror….a slight double vision looking at a street light. Is this a common problem? They wouldn’t order me a new mirror either since the crewmax had a similar issue.
hey brett,
has you read in my above statements i’ve never had any problems with my truck… but i also have that double light ” problem ” or issue.
to me its not so much a defect or problem just a little annoying not knowing what cars are coming up behind you ( looks like too many cop cars sometimes ) get what im saying.
Hello again. Just an update on my problem tundra. After replacing the computer and the gauges and the steering angle sensor and driving 200 miles since the third visit to the dealership, the gauges failed again today and I called my dealership on the way home to let them know. Yes that was one hell of a run on sentence for any English teachers who might be on this blog, sorry.I have gotten to the point that I feel sorrow for the poor guys at Toyota Panama city.They have really tried to help with my truck and I told them that I realized this. The fact is that this is a big disapointment for us both. I have my lemon law booklet that came with my paperwork and I am filling out the forms now. I did tell the guys I would still try another Toyota because of their seemingly sincere efforts and the long history of great vehicles. Good Luck everybody!
This will be my last entry. Panama City toyota bought back my Tundra! I hope everybody with issues that can’t be resolved will be as fortunate!
Mike Murphy: Sorry to hear you’ve had so much trouble. Good news is the dealer was willing to buy back the truck. Not everyone is so lucky.
So what do you plan on replacing the Tundra with? Another truck or car? If another 1/2 ton truck, will you post back some of your experience, issues, likes and dislikes abot your new truck? Just for comparisons sake.
Just curious, has this turned you off from other Toyota vehicles or just the Tundra? Would you purchase another Tundra, in say 2-3 years after all bugs were worked out? Thanks!
Engine Noise
I rented 2 tundra pickups last month to compare engine “diesel” noise.
Unfortunately both 5.7 liter engines had the “diesel” noise just like mine. One had 14 K miles and it was much louder than mine which has 7k miles. The other one had 6K miles and the noise was comparable with mine. It is annoying but I have learned to live with it. Besides that I love my truck. Bed bounce is minimal just like any other truck.
When cold the transmission shifts rough.
I’m starting to wonder if Toyota did enough R&D on 6-spd transmissions. With the many problems reported here (TQ and shifting rough when cold, not going into 6th when cold) and the # of Camry’s with the 6-spd having troubles, I’m starting to wonder if Toyota wanted to be the 1st on the market so they didn’t do their normal R&D.
Just a thought.
the transmission is designed not to go into 6th until it warms up. This stated in the manual. I personally haven’t had any rumble strip issues with mine. It does shift hard when cold.
Thanks for sharing
WOW! I’m so disapointed with some of these reviews. I got an ’06 Tundra DC with the 4.7L. It’s a great truck but I like the new design of the “07 & ’08 and was looking to go check ’em out. Guess I’m gonna wait now!
Hunter not all Tundra’s are having these problems. I’m at 16,000 miles and I only replaced my passenger mirror that quit working automatically at 15,000 miles. I have the 5.7. I have an AFE CAI closed system along with Borla XRS complete duals. I’m getting 22.5mpg at 60mph. I got 24.7 at 55mph. Got 19.7 at 70mph. As stated above on number 271 I have that issue while tranny is cold shifting into 6th. When I leave my house it’s only 1 mile to I-95 and the speed limit is 65 here. It doesn’t shift for that first mile. Then I get on I-95 and it shifts fine then. Tranny is warmed up by then.
Hey Mickey – Yeah who am I kidding – I’m still gonna go check out the 5.7 C-MAX. Man thats some good gas mileage your getting. How much were the upgrades – definitely worth it huh? The tranny issue is the same with the 5-speed Tundras – wont go into 5th until warm-up – says so in the owners manual too!
Hey guys did I miss something but how are you guys getting such a good mileage, I want to know I own a crew max 5.7, I like my truck a lot, I had the torque converter replaced at 7k miles on 10k right now and I might have to take it back I think is the transmission I’m having a problem with between 3 and 4th gear is not shifting right is shifting too hard..but let me know how to get good mileage.
I’d like to know the tricks, too, on getting better gas mileage in my 5.7 Tundra.
In a 50/50 mix of freeway and city driving, I get just over 15 miles to the gallon. I keep very meticulous records on every tank of gas. In my 2000 Silverado with the 5.3 engine, I consistently averaged 17.25 miles per gallon doing the exact same driving that I am doing in my Tundra.
However, my Tundra has a tonneau cover which my Silverado didn’t have, and I was much more aggressive with my driving in the Silverado. I have tried every driving trick that I can think of (easy starts, coasting, no quick acceration, etc) with the Tundra and I still can’t get anywhere near the mileage I got with my Silverado.
On the open highway, the best I have ever done in my Tundra, even with the tonneau cover on it, is 17 miles per gallon. My Silverado, without a tonneau cover, would get 19.5 miles per gallon on the highway.
The EPA mileage estimates on my 2007 Tundra were 16 city and 20 highway, the same as the EPA estimates on my 2000 Silverado. With the Silverado, I was able to consistently beat the city estimate and was able to come close to the highway estimate. With the Tundra, even though I am driving a lot more conservatively and being much more concerned about gas mileage, plus having a tonneau cover, I estimate that my seven year old Silverado that had 108,000 miles was getting at least 15% better gas mileage than my new Tundra with 6100 miles.
I had submitted earlier posts about the ticking, clicking, diesel-like noises in my engine. I had a nice meeting with t
he Toyota service people and the answer I got was that these noises are normal and nothing to be concerned about so I am doing my best to ignore them.
However, I just am not sure that I will be able to handle the noises, so my beautiful and otherwise wonderful Tundra may get traded for something that has a quiet engine (like my Silverado did!!).
Hay you know what
I like the way my cremax sounds
sometimes I wonder where these posts really come from?
D
Hunter the AFE Cold Air Intake cost $265. Borla XRS duals cost another $450 at my local muffler shop. It will take awhile for my savings on mpg to pay for it. The duals didn’t increase that much .5mpg. TJW having a tonneau cover doesn’t improve mpg. Mythbusters did that test and soft or hard doesn’t improve mpg or loose mpg. It does make a believer out of me. When I bought my truck in July last year and when it was filled up with fuel the range always showed I had 393 miles. Since I put in the AFE CAI it shows 415 miles till empty. So it does help some. I’m not saying AFE is the best but the cost was cheaper than K&N, and Volant. Volant is recommended by TRD.
Tjw I had a 98 silverado that would get 22mpg at 80mph with A/C going. Did the dealer recommend synthetic oil for your oil change? I can’t be sure if synthetic would ease the tapping noise. I used synthetic from day one. I don’t have the noise coming out of the engine like you’re having.
2007 Tundra reg cab 5.7 4X4 10,500mi. I get about 14.5mpg city & highway mix. Im not sure why everybody is comparing fuel mileage to Chevys and Fords. Remember, Chevy’s little baby motor 5.3 puts out about 315hp and Ford 5.6 I think is more like 300hp. That’s like 20% less power. That’s like comparing apples to oranges. My friend has a Gmc and gets 22-25 on the highway. We ran side by side and I left him sittin still. The ponit is, you have to feed those ponys (especially if you use all of them).
I am clairol impaired and don’t know anything about mechanic’s and all but I would like to tell my husband about this AFE Cold Air Intake. Could you please tell me what it is? Where does one get it? and would it work on a 2008 Tundra?
Thank you for your help.
MY 07′ CREWMAX IS AVERAGING 13.2 MILES ON THE CITY AND ABOUT 13.8 ON THE HIGHWAY IT HAS A LITTLE OVER 12,000 MILES ON IT ALREADY. I DO DRIVE IT IT PRETTY HARD SOMETIMES BUT EVEN IF I DON’T I STILL GET AROUND THE SAME 13.2 TO 13.4 MPG WHAT GIVES THAT IS WAY TO LOW IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG WITH MY TRUCK.
Lisa it’s quite alright on top of this site on the right hand side under Toyota after market parts is cold air intake click on that site. That would take you to where they explain and show about cold sir intakes. At the bottom of that site states where they have the least expensive cold air intakes for Volant and you click on that takes you to Volant and AFE. AFE was about $60-80 cheaper than Volant. You want a closed system because this fits exactly where your stock system is and works just like your stock system. AFE you don’t have to replace the filter or add oil. They give you directions on how to clean your filter. Also these sites show you how much H/P you get with a cold air intake. There’s even a tidbit on how it sounds too. Good luck on your research and if you have any questions feel free to run it through here on this site or you can try Tundratalk.net They are very helpful on that site with any problems you may have or want to find out about.
Within the last month I traded in my 2003 Dodge Ram (with a Hemi) for a 2008 5.7 Crewmax.
A couple of thoughts and concerns:
With less than 1500 miles on the new truck the mileage is 2.5 miles per gallon better than the Dodge.
It is quicker and quieter.
I hate the seat belt buzzer.
I wish the bed was 6″ longer. I know it is only 6″ inches but it is alot when hauling things.
After reading this blog, I am concerned about the flimsy tailgate. You so be able to load atleast 600 lbs. of whatever on it and it not bend or flex. After I read the post I went and looked at it. It is made for show and not for go! Toyota needs to fix this.
They made this truck to compete with the big boys, until this is fixed, it is a step behind.
If I would of read this blog before buying this truck I would have given it a second thought, because I bought it to be a truck not a car.
John I know everyone is comparing chevy’s, fords. By the way my chevy and the ford I owned was 4.6. If I’m getting the same mpg’s as they are then I’m the successful one with a 5.7.
OnlyGMmattershere: Well thanks for such an insightful post. Never seen such factual and non-bias information posted before.
FYI: I
I have one of these so called “problem free” GM’s sitting in my garage as we speak! I was unable to trade it in for my tundra due to a blown head gasket at 36k miles. Just goes to show ya nothing is perfect!
GM Please come to florida and take this crap 06 Silverado LT3. I ran out of duct tape to hold it together. Great you can do 100,000 miles with your engine. I couldn’t do 2 weeks 800 miles without the headliner falling down. 8x replacing that. Oh not to mention where’s my tail lights? O h yeah they both fell off. Imagine that. I don’t need those. O Yeah great engine but what do you do when it comes time to stop when your ABS quits working????? Yes I know “Like A Rock” well did you see my new slogan on my Tundra?? “THE NEW HEARTBEAT (TOYOTA LOGO) OF AMERICA” Oh by the way Was that GM who was way in the hole because of no sales or is it poor quality? Well anyway the AMERICAN people spoke so now GM in a bad situation.
I take it admin deducted GM an his band of fools.
i read an old post about crappy stock tires. true, i burnt a set off in 16000km. i have 23000km now. i am not happy with the paint, chips too easy, i drive a lot of highway for work. fuel tank way too small. fuel mileage not good enough for a 2007(i was getting same mileage with my 97 vortec 350ci). front end not enough clearance or travel, i’ve hit my bumpstops a couple of times on backroads. aftermarket parts, support or even knowledge is lacking in northern alberta. the toyota design hard box covers are crappy but look nice(mostly a hardware problem). my brother has an 04 tundra with hard cover, and he can take it off by himself in about 5 min. mine takes 20 or so with the lame way it is mounted. the traction control trys to take over too much. i usually turn it off when hitting gravel or snow, but the annoying part is the truck still beeps at me when the tires are spinning on said surfaces. i’m hard on my trucks and expect them to perform. i could find things that bug me about any new truck, so this one’s not that bad. it has power, comfort, and now a solid set of nokians for traction. the real test will be this spring when i’ll be in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the night with a big mud hole followed by more big mud holes and 100km to the nearest highway.
I am a die hard gm guy,but i bought an 07 crewmax before halloween.The night i bought it(Friday) i took my wife and son for a test drive then i left for deercamp.I gave it the test. I hit every mud hole,climbed all the hills,and threw so many circles i’m still dizzy!It took almost $40 washing of that red Ga. clay but was well worth it.Sunday night after i got home i put the leveling kit on then Monday the 20’s went on.All week i worked on it installing dvd stereo (with all the goodies),headrest tv’s,catch-all mats,seatcovers,playstation,& a few other accessories,Just in time to go hunting again on Friday.And yes it was mud time again.I love fixing up vehicles.I have my own streetrod/bodyshop so thats what i do,but i figure it’s still a truck.Thats what i bought it for.I only have 3 complaints.1)It’s a pain to wash especilly with tow mirrors.2)I can’t keep my wife out of it(which she just test drove a new sequioa last saturday),& 3)That dang traction buzzer!!Is there any way to shut it off?I’m going to get some photos in sooner or later.Maybe i will after i wash it again or 2tone it with flames.I wish i’d taken some with the 22’s on it to answer some of yalls questions but i didn’t like it.There wasn’t enough rubber.It rode bad and looked like a low-rider,but they will look good after i finish my lift with taller tires.Have fun out running the Fords & Gm’s and it will i promise you!Thanks Toyota for making such a good truck,which may be bad sinde she wants one now!This is a true conversion from GM to Toyota.I worry what’s going to happen next?*@!?
Mickey – you are correct. Sorry it took me so long to kill that troll.
[…] Originally Posted by 00strker well anyone who has owned a toyota understands they are a very nice machine any of them really my mom and dad have tundras and 4 half tons they are very mean and look at the resale of any toyota vehicle and with proper maintnence they will honeslty last 4 ever… they 90’s model toyota pickups are almost indestructable Oh ….these must be Love Letters then! All Known 2007 Toyota Tundra Problems | tundraheadquarters.com […]
Thanks Admin. It’s really appreciated.
Tsmith congrats on your truck. I have an 07 Crewmax Limited Nautical Blue. I put several mods on to mine. AVS Bug shield, 4 Weather Tech Tundra mats, Toyota Reverse Camera, Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar, Trail Fx SS Nerf Bars, Bully Step Bar, Fire & Ice 60″ LED Brake/Reverse Light Bar, AFE Cold Air Breather, Borla XRS Duals with 4″ SS Rolled/Angeled Tips, Euro Dezigns HID Low/High Beam & Fog Lights, Extang Black Max Tonneau Cover, Herculiner, TRD Shifter, Cosmos Halo LED Projection Headlights, XM Satellite Radio, Samsung MP3. I didn’t go with 20″ I stayed with the original 18″. I did buy on ebay anothe 18″ rim for the spare instead of the steel rim with a michelin tire. Had only one time visit to the shop to replace pass mirror because it wouldn’t auto close at 15,000 miles. I really enjoy driving this truck. Toyota suprised me with the new Tundra. I don’t worry about it being the first new model coming out. Because my last truck was aa 3rd year one with 3 defects and a recall. Nothing like seeing some people faces when they see the front those Halo projection lights looking like the BMW lights and seeing all 5 windows down and the sunroof opened jamming to XM. When they see the rear with the SS Tips, Bully Bar and Fire and Ice LED bar they catch back up giving the thumbs up. I always acknowledge this. It’s a good feeling. I have THE NEW HEARTBEAT OF AMERICA.
2007 tundra double cab, long bed. I love this truck. It has the power. We did change the torque converter as mentioned way back. No new problems with it. We average 14-17 mpg in the country. We did get 17 all the way on the interstate. We just bought a camper. 33ft long, weighs 7150. It pulled it like a dream. No power problems. It did not squat the truck at all. We pulled it down the interstate going 55 easily. Only using 1/4th of the power. I do want to fuss about the paint. It seems thin. One false move, and you can see the bare metal. Got to love it!!!
Paul it handled great pulling the camper. So far I only pull my 18.5 foot boat.
I have a 2007 Tundra DC SR5 4X4. Just bought aftermarket fog lights, anyone give me an idea how they mount?
Mark try tundratalk.net or tundrasolutions.com there you will get answers.
I am a retired owner of an Airconditioning Co. Have driven Fords for 53+ years, Traded every two years, In those 50+ years I have driven a few Chevy’s. Even tried Dodge in the early nineties, So, I do feel qualified to address the problems with anything that is mechanical (Have the same experience with Airconditioners) The manf plus the dealer, has to stand behind what they sell. Inevitably, when either of the afore mentioned manf tend to get somewhat successful, I find the value of their product tends to decline also. This is simply human nature at it’s best.In July of ’07 my small Co had 14- F-150 Fords, + 1- Ford Van. When it was time to buy another vehicle, I met with branch mgr only to make this statement. I know we need to buy a couple of trucks, however all I want to tell you is what I do not want to buy. Here it is; Do not want to buy another Ford, Chevy, or Dodge? We have good service out of our Fords, they make a good truck. However, I an personally tired of the problems we have with Ford on any occasional warranty problem,. Plus the time it takes to get the problem corrected. I have been in a service oriented busines too long myself, to hear all the excuses, crap, they try to put on me everytime we have a warranty problem. The first thing a consumer does not want to hear is how much they have going on, and how long it will take to get it corrected, if they can correct it? A consumer that has called us for more years than I care to remember, only want us to recognize that he, or she, is hot, and wants to know when we can correct their problem.No matter what any of us sell, we sell ourselves, and we contiue to do that by getting the consumer’s problem corrected as quickly as possible. When the dealers recognize, we all sell mechanical machines that do break down, and the resoponsibility is in our corner, for we did sell the machine to them, and we can get the warranty in return, but the consumer is delighted that we as a dealer, do not worry them with the possibility of it being a problem for us, In turn, I have left several manf that did not give me the warranty on a few items. Howevr,I do believe I have never left a one, that would not have done it differently, if they had the chace to do it over. Now, back to the trucks we bought. We bought the branch manager a ’07 Tundra SR5. We bought one of the techs a Nissan Titan. July 24,’07, I bought an ’07 Black Tundra Limited 4×4. March the 24th I will have owned it 8 months, I have 24,900 miles on it, and it will turn over on 25K before it is 8 months old, The SR5 has about 15K miles on it. Do not know of the mileage on the Titan, However, we have not experienced any of the complaints I have been reading about. Yes, I do recognize some of the complaints, like the inset instruments and the Bridgestone tires on the Limited 4×4, which I would agree with. However, I do not think you, or I, special ordered these trucks, but did buy a mass produced truck that is on the market for our choice to drive them, if they meet our approval? Now, I’ve said all of this to say, we human beings, remember every negative vehicle we have ever bought, forgetting the positive ones. That is human nature. I am no different than you. I can recite all the bad year model trucks I have ever bought, However, if I do not dwell on the thought, I can recite you at least three times the number, I have loved, including the Chevy’s also. Back to my decision as owner of the Co why I made the decision not to buy anything but Toyota and Nissan. I did not listen to what Toyota, or Nissan told me, but I did listen to the drivers of both. Having been in the Tri-County area so long, drivers of both, only said ; “Dan, I know you are a Ford man”, but if you will try one you will like them. I too, made a mistake in buying my Black “07 Tundra 4×4, Did not buy it from the same dealer we bought the SR5, simply because they could not find one, We found one 50 miles away that had a black one just like I wanted. But as I have afore mentioned, the dealership bears a responsibility too. Will not make that mistake again.My black Limited has 25K on it, and the only problem I have experienced, was learning all the backward controls, compared with Fords and Chevy’s. Where the rubber meets the road; ” Is it Toyota’s fault that it doesn’t please me on their controls? They all work fine, I turn 71 this July,(Am an old Hot Rodder of the Fifties.) I am still six foot in my boots, I usually wear a Western hat. However, I can enter the driver’s seat with my hat on, which is something I could not do with my ’04 F-150 4×4. I cannot do that in my wife’s Cartier Lincoln either? On my last oil changefor the Tundra, I was looking around at the Toyotas while getting my service work done. I sat down in an ’08 Toyota Avalon, also with my hat on. Have driven Lincoln’s since ’78, but guess which I will buy next? I still drive more than 3K a month. Am very active for my age. Do I need the 381 hp V/8 4×4? No, but I do have the power, and the ability to do what I might want to do, right? In the Seventies, I had 6 Fords, and 4 Chevy’s in my business. (In my opinion, we were nearing the time of throw away vehicles) My grown son, asked why I subscribed to “Consumer Reports?” Told him, to find out the problems each manf were facing. Both were having prolems. He said how can you do that? Told him it was only a reporting of the problems every manf were having. Told him if he would stick to the Seventies, I could answer any of his questions, my self. He didn’t think that I could. Try me, I said. On every model year I could tell him the positives points, plus the negatives points. He would call off the year of either Ford or Chevy. I would tell him the problems we had experienced. It was far too many with each manf. He finally conceded, I did know what I was talking aboutat that time, plus 30 more years I can add to the manf. The Human brain does remember the experiences we have, right? I’m not an Ed Wallace, but I have owned over 50 vehicles, counting all the business vehicles. I am pleased with my ’07 Tundra. No, it’s not the perfect vehicle, but we aren;’t either, right?
Dan Moore
I bought my 07 Tundra reg cab 4X4 5.7 last Aug. I now have 12,000 miles and could not be happier. I drove this truck from Florida to Montana where I now reside. My Tundra is outstanding is the Montana snow and cold. I am excited that I will be traveling to California next week for some R&R and I am glad that I know I have a solid truck under me as I will be doing some off road stuff. So far only one problem and that was at about 3,000 miles. I noticed a slight vibration and pull to the right. I made an appointment with the service department and they forced balanced the tires and did an alignment. Problem fixed. By the way I was treated very well be the service dept. Thanks Toyota for building a bad ass truck!
[…] Problems (Read the links under the picture) Consumer complaints about Toyota Tundra – Brakes All Known 2007 Toyota Tundra Problems | tundraheadquarters.com In summary Toyota = […]
[…] Problems (Read the links under the picture) Consumer complaints about Toyota Tundra – Brakes All Known 2007 Toyota Tundra Problems | tundraheadquarters.com In summary Toyota = shit. that’s what you get for buying a truck. perhaps toyota is trying to […]
I have a 2007 4X4 DC TRD. I enjoy the power, deep bed, and the brakes. The seats are more comfortable than my 01 Tundra, which I would have kept were there more room in the back for my family. The 2001 Tundras brakes were undersized for the vehicle, so I am glad they addressed this on the new one. I have owned 8 Toyotas since 1980, and feel qualified to comment on interior fit and finish. This should be improved on the new Tundras. I also concur that the paint could be better, which is something I always thought Toyota bested others, especially the color silver. Yes, I may be nit picking here, but this is the reason I have been a Toyota man for these many years. I hope Toyota keeps this in mind when it comes time to replace my 07 ten years from now. Thanks to all others on this site for the good feed back. Happy motoring.
I am an old guy who has driven more SW Chevy’s than you can count. (350’s/5.3’s) I did not like the new fuel managment system on the 08’s, GM ruined a good engine. I have ordered a new Tundra SW 5.7, 2 WD but now have concerns. The one option which I have to have is limited slip/posi or whatever you call it. After these reading I do not feel I am getting it if it is controlled by brakes?? This will do no good in snow or ice. I also have concerns about the fuel mileage. Comments on either for this truck. Thanks Neil
In response to the gas mileage for the 2wd 5.7 2008 tundra.
My husband and I started out first in Oct with the 2007 tundra.
But after SEVERAL issues and dissapointments the toyota dealer bought back that truck and upgraded us to the 2008 double cab that we have now. We have had this truck since mid NOV. We are very pleased with most parts of this truck. The GAS mileage is NO WHERE near what they promised it to be. We do feel the 2007 had better gas mileage. the 2008 we get about between 13/14 city and hwy 15/16 MPG. For soome reason it seems to be getting worse as we put more miles on it. We have traveled from FL to CA. we have over 15000 miles on it so I feel we can safely say we have put the gas mileage to the test. It pulls to the right as well. We LOVE the braking system, the style grew on us and the comfort of the inside is great! The wind noise is annoying that is something that I did NOT notice in the 2007. Had I know my fears were valid with this V-8 as far as gas mileage…I would have NEVER bought this size engine! The gas prices of today are Killing ALL of us but to get a truck that gets NO WHERE near what the DEALER and MANUFACTURER PROMISE is very much a dissapointment!
Neil, I have a Tundra 4X4 5.7. I live in Montana as you should know we get tons of snow up here. To address your concerns on the limited slip issue, I would have to say that it works very well in the snow and ice. If you did not have that option this truck would be very difficult to drive as there is a significant difference in horsepower from what you are used to in the Chevys. If you did not want to use the LSD option you can easily disable it by holding the button down for 3 seconds. As for the gas milage, I recently returned from a trip to California and I averaged 20.3 on the highway at 65 mph. Of course if I go faster the milage will get worese but I like my horsepower and I dont mind paying the fuel bill.
Thanks John and Lisa for your response. My real question is, if you have limited slip on this 2 WD like they say, shouldn’t the wheels lock up together if one starts slipping? From what I am reading it appears that the one slipping will get a touch from the brakes? Here in OK we have some ice and snow, I have always been able to get around in a Chevy pick up with the posi and 2 WD. Will this rearend just lock a breaking wheel and you try to move or get out with just one wheel grabbing. I am not sure it makes any sense, I started to buy a 4X4 but I don’t really need one. If this 5.7 can get 15/16 around town and 18/19 on the highway I will be happy. I drive with a soft foot…I really do not even need the 5.7 but it is a retirement present for working my butt off for over 45 years.
neil, i have on 07 4×4, 5.7l. i live in northern alberta, lots of snow, even more ice(snowed this morning). i not partial to the traction control system snow or ice because the truck behaves differently than you would expect. it has pointed my nose at the ditch a couple of times, driving back country roads. if you sink the back end in mud or snow at a complete stop and floor it, the truck won’t go anywhere. the tires won’t spin, but when you turn the traction control off it will respond a lot more like your old chevy’s(which is all i’ve ever owned before as well). that said i leave it on for daily driving. i hit some black ice at about 80mph last march and i could not have responded as fast as the computer did to keep my truck on it’s wheels and not on it’s lid in the ditch.
I’m still getting over 20 mpg at 60mph. I have 23,000 miles on my 07 Crewmax Limited. Yes I used an AFE CAI along with Borla XS Sport duels. People you have to remember you bought a Big Block engine in the 5.7. Gas mileage won’t be good unless you do something to change it. Yes I live in flat land florida but I increase my mpg by doing the mods. They’re several brands out there that will help, TRD, Volant, AFE, K&N to name a few. I’m not into the HP with it. Just the gas savings you can get from it.
Does anyone know much about the “GAS CHIP” that saves on the gas?
If so can you tell me your experiences with it and if you know wether there is one for an 2008.
I Love out Tundra…but I tell you these gas prices are Killing “ALL” of us…so if I can find something that would help out, that would be great!
Thanks for your Help.
Lisa
Lisa from what I hear on other forums that those gas chips aren’t worth the money you spend on them. Everyone has stated go with a tuner when it comes out this summer.
Thanks Mickey for the advice…but being I am clairol impaired…could you please tell me more about this “Tuner” , what is it? when and were is it going to be available?
thanks Lisa
Okay, one more question about the 08 tundra rear end. Posi track or no posi track? Will the truck with the auto posi on spin both tires under hard axcelaration. You know, like at the drag strip! I have ordered a SW 5.7, but I really want something for light snow and ice in Oklahoma.
I live in Wi. and we had a cold snowy year. My 07 tundra dcab 4×4 sr5 sounds worse than a cummins deisel when it is below zero. Engine knocks like it is going to throw a rod or two. Also hammers when you pull a heavey trailor or pass a vehicle. Now it is warmer but I still hear engine noise all the time. Transmission also had to be replaced the day after i picked it up. Fuel milage is 12-13 average in cold weather and trans hanges up on shifts. Limited slip should be called limited traction on icey roads don,t even think about staying in 2wd. I got to say this is very disapointing and i will get rid of this truck way before the warranty is up. This engine is never going to last making all this noise. Dealer (smart motors of Madison says they can,t hear anything abnormal. Toyota should be ashamed !
Lisa I’m not very knowledgeable about tuners. From Tundratalk.net you have alot of people talking about it and all state this summer is when it will come out. It’s suppose to make your truck run better and efficient i.e. higher mpg. I’m not sure how it does it but that’s what I gather until it comes out we will here more about it.
I live in Canada and this winter we got down to -50 C with the windchill at one point. My 07 tundra 5.7L had no troubles but did make a light ticking diesel sounding noise before it was warmed up. I recommend going with the 0W20 synthetic oil if you live in these cold conditions. The transmission has been great. No slipping or other abnormal noises. It also handled great in the snowy conditions although it could use some better tires than the stock michelins it came with. I love it so far. I guess some of you are just getting a lemon in the bunch.
I owned 03 tundra stepside sr5 4×4 with 265 hp v8 ,only problem I remember was clunking noise in rear end at take off from red lights or all dead stops,truck did that for 3 years.Now I own 07 trd 4×4 5.7 and guess what? at 2500 mls that old time clunking is back like a ghost. Of course the dealer says he cant hear it,2nd dealer says something something sounds like its loading up,bring it and leave it.Well is anyone else hearing this clunk from dead stop.I think it only happens with 4by4,it could be the brakes because I release with 1 foot and step on gas with same foot . Between o and 4 mph the sound is always.
John – Any chance you’ve got something in the cab or bed of your new truck that you brought with you from your old truck? I’ve seen it before – you put some item in your car or truck and don’t realize it’s moving around. Based on the fact you’ve heard the same noise in both trucks, I’m thinking it’s a possible explanation.
I own a 07 DC SR5 4×4 with 32000miles yes i am almost out of warranty. I only have had one problem with the truck and the dealer replaced the drive shaft. I also am averaging 17mpg on the freeway. i have one complaint the truck is great but they could have spent some time on the stereo and speaker setup. also the truck now seems to be slower off the line but i still tow a 30′ trailer
I have a 2008 5.7L RWD Dbl. Cab Tundra with 5,000 miles. I have recently noticed a clunk/thud coming from under the dash possibly front suspension. It occurs sometimes when I start the engine and sounds like somebody doing a single, light knock on the firewall. Other times I notice it are when I am going over relatively small bumps in which the noise sometimes happens concurrently, but I can drive over rough RR tracks and not hear a peep! Also when I stop sometimes it seems to happen at the point when the truck’s momentum catches up when arriving at a complete stop, and sometimes upon releasing the brake from a stop. It does not seem serious and is not loud by any means, but my girlfreiend and I both hear it clearly. I am familiar with the sound produced by normal suspension travel (it is definitely not related to struts or metal to metal contact in the suspension). I have no slippage or shifting problems at all, just the thud noise that almost sounds like something is loose. I haven’t taken it to the dealer yet (but am going to), but can already hear them saying “sounded normal to me” or “I’m not hearing anything” as expected. I absolutely love the truck and am thoroughly impressed with it other than this problem. I’m obsessive and this is something I have now trained myself to notice. If anybody has any suggestions or potential solutions please let me know!! Thanks.
I too have had troubles with my 2007 Tundra. I own a DC 4.7 SR-5 . I have had to repair the tailgate as the clip holding the rod to unlock the tailgate broke.
My bed is also missaligned in relationship to the cab ,I have a vibration in the front end of the truck which the dealer has yet to properly fix. I have also noticed my front tires are wearing out at an alarming rate.I also found out that in the winter time I have pulled off road which packed snow in and around my rim(I have stamped steel wheels) the snow melted and set up overnight to form an Ice block (if you will) on the inside of the rim,causing the wheel to become unbalanced.”crappy” tires on the 34K dollar truck. I am soooo happy I only leased this vehicle and cannot wait to give it back to Toyota as I am very dissapointed in this truck and look forward to buying my next Ford or Chevy.
I have a 2007 5.7 double cab, short bed. Had the rumble during downshift, 5th to 6th. It has gone away. I have 1220 miles on the truck. I tow a 6500# fifth wheel. 900# in the bed of the truck. When moving out there is a lot of vibration in 1st gear and then 2nd gear. Vibration stops when it gets to 3rd gear and on up. Also, when towing my 5th wheel, any roadway not real smooth, there are lots of them in California, causes the truck to feel like the trailer is constently pushing and pulling. A large bump in the road is real unpleasent. I loaded 900# of cement around the hitch in the bed of the truck, to simulate the hitch weight, without the trailer. Shifted OK. No Vibration. No surging. Feels like the driveline is vibrating in 1st and 2nd gear when towing. Anyone else having towing problems?
Have you had the Torque Converter checked out? We had an 07 Tundra and had a similar problem it was the torque converter. Check this site for several other issues with the 2007 tundras. This is an awesome site packed with great information.
Thanks Lisa
should i buy i tundra!
The Look is great! The engine is nice. 6 gear… The road test was awsome! But i’m reading this treat for 1 hour and i’m scary!
somebody doesn’t have trouble?
f150 has a common look
dodge ram road test i did sucked…
my father silverado is … not very nice like tundra…
Max:
>>should i buy i tundra!<<
Personally, I don’t think I’ll ever buy Toyota again now. I THOUGHT I was going to be a loyal Toyota Man the rest of my life after wonderful experiences with a Celica and a Highlander. My Tundra Limited, though… different story. Read all the previous posts on bed-bounce, and I can ASSURE you they are 100% factual. I bought my truck only a couple of months ago (2007s needed off the lot), and when I drove it the truck was great. No issues around town.
On the freeway, though, it’s a HAZARD. The shaking is beyond description. I have driven trucks since I got my license, and this is no simple shake. Also, unless someone wants to offer to pay for my gas (hello, Toyota?), I should NOT have to put anything in the bed of my truck for weight to enjoy my ride. This truck is billed as a luxury utility vehicle. There’s nothing luxurious about rattling your fillings loose on the freeway.
I bought my 5.7 DC SR5 last may. At 300 miles the cig lighter blew out and the truck thought it was being stolen so it wouldn’t run. (Had my brand new truck TOWED out of my driveway!) Dealer put a new fuse in and all was fine until 21k this week. VSC off light is flashing all of a sudden ck engine light staying on and horrid shutter in the front end over 45mph. It’s going back to the shop on monday and I’ll post what they find. I am disapointed. I got rid of my pos 03 Expedition that had every problem you could think of within 45k for this. My right driver vent creeps too and my radio volume works when it wants along with being able to change the station. I think my truck has some sort of fatal electrical flaw causing most of these issues. We’ll see.
I bought a 2007 Tundra about one year ago. Regular cab, 4WD, 4.7 engine. Truck is used as a work truck. My obseravations at 18k miles:
Pro: quiet, lots of interior storage(especially behind the seat), so far dependable, dampening tailgate,
Con: stock tire selection ( Bridgestone- will need replaced by 20k), rear bumper should be slightly wider (the bed is so high that I must continually climb into the bed to retrieve items that can’t be reached from the side- wider bumper would provide more secure footing when climbing back and forth over tailgate), whoever designed the cup holder in the console must drink from much bigger cups than I do-an average can or coffee cup tips back and forth. Power door locks should be standard on all versions- truck is too wide to unlock passenger door without going around or crawling across the seat. Rear window could be larger to enable observation of cargo in the mirror.
At one year I am pleased, but as with any new design, some bugs remain to be resolved by Toyota.
This is not a Tundra concern but has anyone heard about the Tacoma suden acceleration problem. I have seen it talked about on the internet a few times but no one is confirming it is an actual problem
Steve: I have read many articles regarding this Tacoma issue. It does seem to be more common than Toyota is letting on. Could simply be driver error (ever see those tv shows where the old lady hits the gas instead of the brake)? I think the issue is too random at the current time and not enough people have complained or vehicles have been effected. Could be minor, similar to the 20 camshafts Toyota had fail in the Tundra. So yes I’ve seen and read about it, but don’t know the validity of the problem.
I have a 2008 5.7L RWD Dbl. Cab Tundra with 5,000 miles. I have recently noticed a clunk/thud coming from under the dash possibly front suspension. It occurs sometimes when I start the engine and sounds like somebody doing a single, light knock on the firewall. Other times I notice it are when I am going over relatively small bumps in which the noise sometimes happens concurrently, but I can drive over rough RR tracks and not hear a peep! Also when I stop sometimes it seems to happen at the point when the truck
I have a 2007 toyota tundra with a little over 2400 miles on it. The car is great so far and the gas milage is getting better everyday, but I took it in for service because the traction control cannot be turned off and the VSC OFF light keeps flashing. The dealer has told me that they had to order parts and that I will not have my car for a few days. Has anybody had this problem and if so what are they changing? My model is a 5.7 crew cab.
Peter
2007 Double Cab 5.7L TRD 4×4
Nary a problem boys and girls. Absolutely the best truck I’ve ever owned of 2 Toys, 5 – Chevy 1500 and 2500’s, 1 – F-250 diesel, and compared to countless Chevy, Ford and Dodge 4×4 trucks owned by my dad and two brothers. (I’m 43 years old). None of the problems discussed here. Currently thanking my lucky stars that I have the one I do. When I bought the truck, I actually had it brought to me from Natchez, MS to the DFW area because it was the only one in 5 states in the color I wanted with the add-ons I needed. When the pieces start falling off of this one from old age and countless miles, I’ll go buy another one just like it. Currently at 29,560 miles since March of 07.
i have had my tundra for about a month now…i love it but i only have one complaint…sometimes when i am stopped at a light it will suddenly give a thud/shutter. the truck wont move…it just does the thud. the engine doesnt sound louder or quieter…im wondering if maybe it has to do with the torque convereter? the only time it happens is when im at a complete stop. i would take it to the dealer…but i know for a fact it wouldnt do it when they would take it for a ride with my luck!
OK, if this is all the issues with the new Tundra, I am on my way to buy one. Current problems with my 2004 GMC 1500 SLT 4×4 w/ 40K miles:
Instrument cluster completely trash, replaced.
Steering column bearing fell apart, replaced.
Steering column intermediate shaft knocks, replaced and now the problem is back and it is a common issue on all GM trucks.
Tailgate supports fail, denting the tailgate on bumper.
Engine clatter when hot or cold start.
Steering gear is bad, harsh whine when steering in a parking lot at low speed.
Transmission shifting is harsh from 1st to 2nd when cold and when AC in on.
Locking rear diff. chatters when turning and cold outside.
Seat belt retractors squeak.
Popping felt in cab when going over bumps, dealer installed plastic slip sheets between cab and frame mounts.
Paint on hood crackled, no dealer repair.
Rear drive shaft replaced due to constant snapping when switching from drive to reverse.
Rear view mirrow temp and direction indicator behaves erratic in cold weather.
Anyway, I am going to the Toyota dealer today.
Thanks for listening.
I had some issues with my bed bouncing when I first purchased my crewmax. I heard that lifting the front end a tad would not only make the appearance better but correct the bed-bouncing problem. Sure enough, after installing a lift kit, I have driven my truck to speeds over 100mph and did not experience any bouncing. I love the ride and have not had any problems. NONE!
I’ve got a 2007 Tundra brand new with 311 miles on it from dealer.After 2 and half weeks I noticed where a piece of paint chipped. wa thinking of caring for it myself,because i thought it to be a rock induced damage.This was even though I have not hd any condition for any debris.I noticed a couple of days later there were more,and this is when i noticed paint bubbles.I need to state I noticed this after washing my truck each time more chips woud appear.I had taken the truck to the service department where i had bought it.I went through the process with the dealer and after a couple of weeks was told it was fallout environmentl conditons and that it is not under warranty.The thing is you can see where the paint is built up there are bubbles and also looks like contaminated paint job.I guess I need to go through with the “arbitration review” .Is it worth the trouble,does anyone out there had this experience or advice. Let me know because it is only getting worse
I would think this would be covered under the corrosion warranty. I’d call corporate and perhaps email them some pictures. And the worse it gets, the better for you in getting your point across. Keep washing your truck daily and find another dealer.
Daniel – I would work definitely go back to your dealer and speak with the GM. Paint shouldn’t be flaking off a newer vehicle – Toyota should warranty a re-paint. Check out this post for some tips:
https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2007/04/30/toyota-customer-service-tips-for-getting-your-problem-solved/
Just got 08 dc 4×4 5.7 and at 150 miles noticed a bang or thud when I state from a dead stop ( almost like the seat is sliding on its track) and I get the same thud just befor the truck stops. When I take it out of drive when I stop the thud is gone. Dealer said this is normal , any help on this one???RONALDPI@YAHOO.COM
This is a follow up from my previous post. I have a 2007 ,DC 4.7. My truck has 21K miles on it and I had to replace the junk Bridgestone tires that were supplied from the factory . I ended up installing Good year silet armour on the truck. To my surprise I have cured some problems with this vehicle. The oscillation noise has subsided ,the vibration in the front end has dissapeared (dealer could not figure this out)I did have the truck aligned(was not bad) . I live in the north east and many roads are just tarvia there are a few concreate roads around and I too have experienced bed bounce. I revisited these area’s and could not repeate the bed bounce. Tires made a difference? not sure but after the change I noticed a change in the vehicle. I am still dissapointed in toyota’s quality on the truck as the bed is missaligned to the cab and the tailgate locking handle connecting rods clips broke with a full load of mulch in the bed (was very unhappy).Never had this issue on any of my domestic trucks.Tundra is not a total wash out, but for the money I should have stayed with domestic maybe even say a few bucks…. would on gas anyways average 13 city 16 highway…..
I bought a 2007 Tundra SR5 4×4 Four door 5.7 ltr iForce.
I LOVE MY TRUCK!!!
I have owned mostly Toyota’s in the years of my driving and I don’t regret this purchase at all. I have experienced the radio situation and my dealer ordered one right away. Other than that, no problems (knock on wood). We have taken our truck out in the sand dunes in Pismo, California. It did great. We were able to make it all the way to compitition hill and the race track in the far back without any problems and the stock tires. No bed problems at all while we were piling through all that sand. I also have a ranch in Arizona, which is only accesible over a wash board road, still, never experienced any bed bounce. It’s easy for the FORD Proving Grounds to knock down the other models with a twist of a wrench. My ranch is only about 25 miles if that from their test sight. Never once have we seen them take a vehicle “other” than a Ford (F-OUND O-N R-OAD D-EAD) on the ACTUAL road test. We just purchased a 2003 39′ Weekend Worrier Toy Hauler 5th Wheel in Los Angeles and pulled it back to our home in Bakersfield without the truck breaking a sweat and that was over the infumous GRAPEVINE. Light weight on the trailer is 7,900 lbs. All that is needed is some air bags for the back end to keep the sag of that HUGE trailer from making us bottom out on driveways. Everyone who sees my beast compliments it and agrees, it is truly a nice vehicle. All I have to say is everyone has their own opinion on everything. If you find you don’t like something or don’t agree with something, don’t knock someone else just because they have a difference of opinion. I look forward to Toyota coming out with an even bigger and heavier truck, I heard a possible diesel is in the works within the next two years.
Max I hope you did your research. Not all, I SAY AGAIN not all trucks experience the bed bounce. Test drive the truck on the freeway as well in town. Just because you have no serious issues you’re called a cheerleader for Toyota. Be it as it may I had my truck in the shop 3x to fix minor things. I’m just 2 weeks shy of having it for 1 year. I do alot of road trips in my truck. I was also featured here on Tundra HQ. I have 33,500 miles on my truck. At 15,000 I had my pass mirror replaced because it wouldn’t auto close every time. Took 45 minutes. At 25,000 miles I had my center console cover replaced because it wouldn’t stay close. That took 10 minutes and they replaced the whole lid and cover. At 30,500 miles I had two lugs snapped off the same wheel. Driver’s rear. One of the lugs had my Toyota lug lock on it. They replaced both lugs and replaced the lock set free. That’s $80. They filed it under warranty. That took 3 hours. Had to wait on the lug bolts. Only two questions were asked on that. One was did I use an impact. I stated no just my 4way lug wrench. Then the second question was where was my lock key at, because mechanic couldn’t find it in glove box. I put it in ash tray. Don’t smoke. They wanted to send it back with the old lock lugs. The service advisor stated I come to the dealer with both Toyota’s for all maintenance and that Toyota can cover this for me for being a loyal customer. All I can say “well imagine that”.
From what I’ve seen with owners, it is hit or miss regarding the bed bounce. Also, the most common occurance for the bed bounce is on concrete interstates/highways at the joins or portions between each concrete slab that is set up for heat expansion. Which you get the bed bounce in all trucks in the above scenerios, just seems a little worse in the Tundras that experience the issue.
Mickey: Glad to hear the Dealer & Toyota are treating you good and correcting any issues you’ve come across. Also nice to see they want to send these parts back to Toyota, hopefully for some R&D to determine the cause of failure and how to improve the parts. Keep us up to date on your warranty & maintanence issues as you gain more miles. Sounds to me like only minor problems so far.
07 dc 5.7 had just got back from the Toyota service center and found out that my front diff unit is faulty. they have replaced 5 in the last 4 months.
I felt like i was being pushed when i was coming to a stop and a slight lug when i was taking off almost feels like i am driving with my front drive shaft.
This truck is still a great working truck. They wont tell exactly what was wrong with the diff though
I have a 2003 tundra v8 with 110000 miles, no complaints, just maintanance,oil changes ,spark plugs, timing belt ,water pump,and front rotors.I wouldn’t buy the new tundra yet till they fix them bugs.It happend with the 2000-2003 tundras,they had brake,o2 sensors, and transmission problems , but they fixed them in 2003.I’m sure they’ll get it right eventually.
Warning K&N filter
Warning K&N filter
Warning K&N filter
for tundra 5.7 sucks. For months i have been getting extremely poor gas milege. switched back to factory air filter improved gas mileage by 30%.
Also after installing K&N there was a whistelling noise occurring in the air system
I have been a long time k&N filter believer until a week ago. I’m kicking myself for not realizing sooner it was the K&N filter, I would have saved myself a thousand dollars over the last 5 months
D
2007 Tundra crew max 5.7 leveling kit 3″ 285/ r20
Bought a ’08 DC 4×4 5.7 with the TRD. Very pleased. I have experienced none of the dreaded box bounce. I believe the TRD rides *better* than the AA truck (Std SR5) The AA’s seem very underdamped…. In all reality if you set up the right conditions you can get any truck to swing into a wild harmonic and get the bed to dance… I can tell you this; I drove all the Big 3 had to offer first. The quirky dash and unflattering paint are the only minuses I can find with the Tundra. The drivetrain on the Tundra is nothing short of incredible. The GM has a very nice interior…. drum rear brakes and a whimpy engine. The 2500 relievs the brakes, but the 6.0 is still weak…. The Dodge has an OK interior, nice styling, killer paint and OK power. The Fords are bolted together very well, ride nice and have an embarassing engine/trans combo (I think the transmisison is controlled by the worlds slowest computer…)
If Toyota gets a nicer dash and some decent paint on the Tundra it’s game over for the Big 3….
David: Glad to hear the good word on the new Tundra. Hope you enjoy.
Now as with you, the paint and dash are a glaring weakness on the Tundra. Can be improved quickly and without too much R&D money by Toyota. Also felt the Tundra sheetmetal was a little weaker/thinner than the competition. Plus the fact I fit around 400-500lbs on my tailgate this weekend, which might not be possible with the known tailgate issues with the Tundra. The Tundra powertrain is amazing and puts the rest of the 1/2 tons to shame.
Personally I dislike the GM interior, but to each their own. I take it you drove a 5.3L by your review, since the 6.0 in the 1/2 ton is nice and powerful, almost to the Tundra level. The 6.0L is sort of a dog in the much heavier 3/4 ton (2500) truck. This is a similar experience with the Dodge 3/4 ton with the 5.7L Hemi and Ford 3/4 ton with the 5.4L, just too much truck for the motors to move. I too am suprised that GM is still running rear drums while the rest of the competition has discs on all four corners.
Your review if the Ford is basically spot on, but the acceleration issue isn’t a problem with a slow computer, it’s the way the truck (PCM) was designed. True Ford uses an old 4spd auto design and the 5.4L is underpowered compared to most the competition, but the redesigned ’09 F150 will be increasing power in both the 5.4L & 4.6L while using a 6spd auto. Now unlike the rest of the 1/2 tons, where when you hit the gas the truck gives you all it has, the Ford is programmed to ease throttle acceleration. This program is what Ford calls “Electronic throttle control” which the ETC yields smooth, consistent response. Here’s an article that describes the ETC in full. This is a big reason why you don’t get the big pushed back in your seat feeling when driving an F150. Not saying this is the only item holding the F150 back, but it is a contributor.
http://articles.d-tips.com/art8.html
Thanks for the review and hope you enjoy the new ride!
I agree that the paint and dash need improvements. As far as the tailgate, my only problem was that it wouldn’t open. The clip that holds the rod in broke. Dealer replaced with an improved version. No more problems, has been almost a year. I routinely load my tailgate with 500 or more lbs. I have not seen any issues. Specifically, I load bricks on the tail gate and then step on the tail gate as I’m loading and unloading them. Have not seen any cracking.
hey guys..anybody had a problem with a oil leak..the bottom of my truck has oil..got under there and there is motor oil all ove the bottom..looks like is coming from under the engine there is like a oil pan under the engine and it looks like is coming from there cause the rest of it is dry and clean….i like this truck is a 07 tundra 5.7 v8 crewmax….has anyone had this problem..???? also the pain on the truck is bad..toyota did real bad on the paint job..I’ve had the truck for about 6 months and the paint job on it looks like is 4 years old..oh and yes i’m taking the truck back to the dealership I got it..the dealership where I live will not work on my truck because I did not get it from them…i think is stupid but the service manager told me they couldn’t help me out because I’m not there customer..I could get Toyota involve but I don’t want someone working on my truck that does not want to help me out..but let me know if you have that oil leak..or have you found a solution on the paint job..besides getting a new paint job…but other then that…it’s a bad truck..it will get up and go…
Carlos: Sorry to hear about your issues. Hopefully this is an easy fix, but I haven’t heard of a problem like this on a Tundra yet. Without seeing and owning a Tundra, I can’t say much other than check your oil pan drain bolt. This this is the area you mention the leak is at, maybe during your last oil change this bolt wasn’t tightened back to spec. Or if you’ve never had an oil change, maybe it came from the factory this way. I suppose you already checked this, but can’t provide much more help on this issue.
Now if you need warranty work completed, no Toyota dealer can turn you away. Heck, what if you lived 100miles or so from the next closest dealer? No matter where you purchased the truck, you are a Toyota customer and I’m sure Toyota would love to hear about this dealer and how they are turning away customers simply because you didn’t purchase it from them. Personally I think this is bad business, but that’s the dealers problem if they want to refuse work. Most likely refusing the job since the truck is under warranty and they don’t get paid nearly as much from Toyota as they would if you were footing the bill. If they have stated this, I would check with a higher up in the dealership or the owner. I’m sure they’d like to know about customers being turned away and the bad rep the service manager is creating before you head to Toyota Motor Corp.
Either way, it might be best to avoid this dealership now. Who knows what type of trouble they could cause your vehicle if you complain and the service manager wants revenge.
Agree with Justin on your oil issue and customer service at a dealership. That dealership is being very lazy and don’t want to do any service to your vehicle. This will cause extra paperwork etc for thast dealership since they didn’t sell it to you. Another issue would be how that dealership will get paid for the warranty work. Case in example what if you moved to that area? They are telling you that you need to go all the way back where you come from to fix it? They know they are wrong in this. You need to bring this up to Toyota and let them know what’s up with this dealership. You don’t have to fix it there but let them know and drop a letter to the BBB about it. It may change there ways.
[…] Well,you can also let your friend see the cost of buying a "speedy truck" by sending him this link. All Known 2007 Toyota Tundra Problems | tundraheadquarters.com […]
How do you get that maint light to go off without going to the dealership for every oil change on the 5.7liter tundra?
I have an early 07. There is a TSB on the oil leak; easy fix on a seal at the base of the dipstick. See http://www.tundrasolutions.com.....ics-reset/ for an explanation how to reset the MAINT light.
Thanks Dan for the heads up. Maybe the admin (Jason) can post this link or description of the issue and models effected somewhere on the site. Great resource.
Also found on ToyotaTundraforum.com a list of known TSB’s for the 2nd Gen Tundra. Of course the links don’t work, but a little understanding/description of know issues can always help. Basically they are links from AllDatadiy.com, which is a pay site for TSB info. Provided is also the AllDatadiy.com site for those willing to pay for further details.
http://www.toyotatundraforum.c.....calls.html
http://www.alldatadiy.com/
AWESOME TRUCK! I’ve got a 2007 5.7L Tundra (Texas Edition) Double-Cab; 22″ chrome wheels; 2 wheel-drive; Leather seats; 6 cd-player w/ mp-3 capability; 381HP (plus more for the K&N filter I installed); Gas mileage=15 to 16mpg (city); 401 torque; Smooth ride! Great truck. I’ve got about 11,000 miles and zero problems! I change the oil myself (though it’s a pain to remove the skid-plate every time just to get to the filter. I love this truck. Can pull 10,600 lbs. while 1,500 lbs. are in the bed (totalling over 12,000 lbs. or 6 tons). Zero to 60mph in 6 seconds (rivals some Mustang Cobras). Smokes the F-150, Silverado & Titan (by the way, the Titan seems to be the cheapest truck around; worst rated, along with the Dodge). Titan has only about 310HP (you probably see more of them because they’re the cheapest price).
Mike Harris: Glad to hear about the truck and that you’re happy. Gotta suck removing that skid plate even though it shouldn’t be too hard, but it is an extra step that just takes a few extra minutes.
–Double check to make sure you are not exceeding the Toyota recommended weight. The 1500lb payload includes all cargo, occupants and the tongue weight of the trailer you are towing. If your tongue weight is 300lbs, your payload decreases to 1200lbs, etc. Also, larger tires such as your 22″s will decrease payload/towing capacity. So to be on the safe side, I wouldn’t recommend running anywhere near the max. Puts more strain on the components, decreases the life of the truck and is unsafe. Even with how good the 1/2 tons are today, I wouldn’t recommend towing over 9500lbs with any 1/2 ton, no matter make/model. Here’s some disclaimers straight from the Toyota website, check them out.
–Payload
The weight of occupants, equipment and cargo that a truck transports. If the curb weight is increased by adding components (such as a bigger engine or an automatic transmission), the payload rating will decrease.
http://www.toyota.com/pdfs/towguide_Part1.pdf
http://www.toyota.com/pdfs/towguide_Part2.pdf
http://www.toyota.com/pdfs/towguide_Part3.pdf
–And I don’t know why everyone here is about 0-60 times in a Full-Size truck. As I always say, it’s a nice option to have when needed, but that one factor does not make it better than the other makes/models. Ford has been on the bottom end of the 0-60 times, but still sell more and are considered one of the best trucks on the road. Sure compare it to a Cobra, but lets see stopping distance and manueverablity, etc.
–Also, the Nissan isn’t the cheapest price wise, even though they do have some good incentives on them currently since they’re not selling. Now if you’ve ever driven a Titan, that 310-315hp 5.6L is underrated. Also, lb-ft of TQ is more important in these full-size trucks than hp #’s.
–Again glad you love the truck!
Mike glad you’re happy with your truck. Like you I have an 07 Crewmax with 35,300 miles and doing quite fine. Unlike Justin who doesn’t like anything better than his Ford always has his pin ready to burst any Tundra owner’s bubble. Justin I tried to understand you but going on all Tundra sites to find whatever you can to bring down the Tundra. You’re either obsess or something did you wrong.
Mikey: So trying to provide truthful and honest facts directly from Toyota’s website is bursting someones bubble? Simply stated the Tundra can’t tow 10.6K and have a payload in the bed of 1500lbs, all at the same time. Well, I guess you could, but this would be illegal and against the Toyota recommendation. Not my problem if you endanger others in your area and potentially void your warranty. Just don’t come around my neighborhood towing that kind of load with a 1/2 ton, any 1/2 ton.
–So Tundra owners it’s okay to boast about the 0-60 times? Even though that is not how you truly define a truck and its capabilities and if one is better than the other. Like I’ve always stated, they are some powerful beasts with that 5.7L. Just don’t consider that the sole reason why a Tundra is better than any other make/model 1/2 ton. Again I state the Tundra has upped the bar for the competition in the powertrain dept, but Toyota is still trying to catch up in many other catagories. I appreciate what the new Tundra has done, since competition breeds competition.
–I don’t go on other Tundra sites other than to research something from the consumer experience. I will read magz and other online reviews to gain knowledge of any/all products. I do this to find out the goods and the bads so I can make an educated decision on my next truck, whatever make/model that may be. Not just go by the “Well it does 0-60 in XYZ” or “It’s the newest on the road”, so it must be the best” or “It’s a Toyota, so it’s built better than any American truck” mentality.
–You and I may agree on some points, we may disagree on more points, but the bottom line is the product at hand. You consider the Tundra the best 1/2 ton on the market. That is your opinion and right to think this. I feel differently, this is my right. Our experiences with certain makes/models differs from each other that have brought us to where we are today. But I hate to be so repetative and redundent, but I come here to provide objectivity and another perspect that some owners or potential owners may never have thought of. But to say I’m soley here to burst bubbles or praise Ford, I am not. Look through my posts, all of them on all threads. You’ll notice I have good/bad things to say about every make/model, no vehicle is perfect. Sure I do have a preference, but this is based on my needs/wants/likes in a vehicle, not yours, no Joe Schmoes.
Hey I own a 2008 tundra DC 5.7 and I love it! I personally think that the “new tundra” is the best half ton pickup on the market at this time.I work for a Ford dealer and have worked for ford for a total of 12 years.Even with my employee discount I couldn’t get the f 150 Four door with a center console for the same price as my tundra with those options.The only problem I’m having with my 08′ tundra is that I can’t keep my foot out of the gas pedal! Man this truck has insane power.It tows my 24′ enclosed car trailer with a Ford Mustang in it perfectly.
Justin I will try to bring a website for you to look at. I’m not a fan of you tube but it was on another Tundra club to see. It shows you all you want to know.
See if this works Justin. I thought you might like this. http://jalopnik.com/tag/amci/
Shawn: Glad to hear you’re loving the truck! Now on the Ford with the center console, were you wanting it with the console shifter rather than the steering column shifter? I know the center console shifter with bucket seats was/is a little more costly than having the steering column shifter with bucket seats and ceter console. Keep us up to speed on your impressions of the truck over time.
–Mickey: I to dislike youtube, especially all the kids that post remarks and have no clue what they are talking about. I have seen too many clips there that were questionable and many that were manipulated. Some are decently accurate though. But heck, post anything you like, I’m willing to review anything and post my thoughts. Here are some promotional vids of the ’09 F150. Some are legit, like the detroit locker & frame flex, others like the acceleration I’m not so sure of. Says they used the Tundra 5.7L/6spd and Silverado 5.3L/4spd, but how hard was each truck really pushed. I’d like to see the Silver Creek vid from the exterior to see the true flex of the truck. So a lot of speculation can be made from videos on youtube without knowing all the factors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wphkjCEl49c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTOFX7T7Vqg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R5qOfiMc00
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW58XcTMM64
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eks7-BPkNZ4
Mickey: Have seen this vid before, Toyota used to have them on their own site. But is Toyota really trying to capture the racer or the roofer? By most their commericals, you’d assume the roofer, but still rarely see any Tundras on construction sites locally. Of course this may differ in other areas.
—Now I do question some of the validity of these vids. They cut away from one angle to another is too often to get a good understanding of how good/bad each truck really did. Just on the 0-60 test, you notice the Tundra is pulling away from the Titan, next clip the Titan is almost exactly beside it while the Tundra is pulling away, then next clip the Titan is right along the bedside of the Tundra again at the end. Same scenerio with the 0-60/1200lb payload test. Tundra is pulling away from the Titan, on the 2nd clip the Titan starts gaining on the Tundra, then the last clip the Titan is almost a truck length behind. 3rd clip the trucks stay in bascially the same order they left the gate from. Now the 0-60-0 test is really questionable. As you’ll notice the 1st & 2nd clip are the identical clips they used in the 0-60 test which had a different ending. We all know the Tundra gets to 60 the fastest, so it’s gonna start braking before the other trucks even hit 60. Sure it stopped 31 ft shorter, but a lot had to do with hitting 60 sooner and applying the brake sooner. So yes it’s a nice test, but a better test would be 60-0 by itself. Same scenerio with the 0-40-0 with 8500lbs. Compare 40-0 with this load to get a more accurate braking test. All I can truly tell from the 0-60-0 & 0-40-0 is the Tundra hits 60 quicker than the others. The 25-65mph test looked fairly accurate if not spot on, but they still used some video clips from the previous 1200lb load test. The reusing of video clips makes these results kind of questionable and/or misleading.
–Now I don’t doubt the Trundra gets these loads moving quicker, and stopping sooner, due to the larger brakes and superior powertrain. Just question the tactics used in this video. What I’d like to see is how the Tundra compares carrying these loads in situations other than a straight line and with wind gusts. Basically how does the Tundra control the weight in comparison to the other makes/models.
Both of my Chrome bumpers on my Tundra began to rust at 5,300 miles. The first time I took it to the dealer the Service Rep said that it was normal. I called Toyota USA and they said it had to rust completely from the inside out. Taking matters into my own hands I had a magnetic sign made with the problem on it. I included my opinion of the truck and dealer on the sign. After three weeks I got a call from the dealer. They said because they loved me so much and I was such a good customer they were going to replace both bumpers. The day I had my bumpers replaced they also replaced them on four other trucks. So now I love my Tundra.
Bob – Your comments are interesting – we reported about this problem on a separate post: https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2008/04/06/new-toyota-tundra-problem-bumper-and-lug-nut-rust/. Check it out.
Bob A: Sorry to hear about your troubles and the extent you had to go for replacement, but at least they were replaced, hopefully free of charge. Now keep an eye on your new bumpers, just in case. Hopefully Toyota has improved the chrome plating on the ’08 MY and any replacement bumpers. Also try some of the stuff in the link below, which can be found at your local auto parts store. I use it about once a month, leaves a mirror like finish and removes rust buildup.
http://www.turtlewax.com/main.taf?p=2,1,4,12
Tundra rocks. Yes, Justin, I’m aware of all the issues you mentioned (tongue weight, consider the passenger weight when calculating total load, etc.). I just stated some quick, overall capabilities of my Tundra. Prior to purchasing, I checked comparable makes/vehicles (1/2 tons). Ford cost more & provided less (Lariat). Silverado & Dodge the same. Nissan compared in cost, yet couldn’t hold a candle to Tundra’s capabilities. I love the hydraulically assisted tailgate on the Tundra (smooth lowering). The Ford tailgate just slammed down. On another note, my Tundra was assembled in San Antonio (U.S. assembly plant); by U.S. employees. I’ve noticed Ford & Chevy have more and more assembly plants in Canada and/or Mexico. This is all done for money, of course (they’d rather pay Canadian or Mexican employees far less than be forced to pay U.S. employees our minimum wage, etc.). Everything is more of a global environment today, anyhow.
Mike H. – Thanks for the response and glad to hear you understand all the factors that go into towing. I’ve run into too many people that buy a truck, no matter what make/model, and simply go by the numbers.
They have no comprehension of what these figures mean, how they relate to carrying a load and what the issues may be if they overload their truck. They just like fact of having the best numbers without knowing what they truly mean.
–Interesting bit on the cost part. We all know the Tundra does come with more standard equipment than the other 1/2 tons, raising the initial purchase price over the others base model. What you may find on the high end models, is the prices vary from dealer to dealer and model to model. A dealer may advertise the truck at MSRP, but this is not the true sales price many pay. I know with my truck, MSRP was between $37K-$38K, but I paid between $27K-$28K. Of course a lot has to do with the market you reside and the dealer (example: a 4X4 model will cost more in CO than FL, due to more people require/want 4X4 for the snow). Either way, congrats on getting a good deal. Too many people don’t do the proper shopping around for the best deal.
–Hmm, the tailgate on my F150 doesn’t slam, but it doesn’t slowly lower itself either. It’s easy enough to lift and lower with one hand. Sounds like a good selling point for you, but not one of my top priorities when buying a truck. Just personal preference.
–My F150 was built in KC and has been for many, many years. Sure Ford is starting to build some of their vehicles outside the states. What about Toyota who has done so for the majority of their business life? So you think it’s okay for Toyota to have an upper hand by spending less on employment, union fees and all other aspects related to building a vehicle and running a business, but it’s not okay for the domestics to do the same? Also, how many American employees are employed by Toyota, vs Ford, or GM or Dodge? The figure for the domestics is still significantly larger, even with many of the layoffs and plant closings. This is an upsetting issue for me. I dislike the fact the domestics are laying off American workers. At the same time they also have a business to run and keep afloat. Sure sometimes to compete in the market, you must do things that ruffle some feathers. Yes your Tundra is built in the states and it pays American workers for doing so. But bring all the Toyota products over to the states, employee only unionized American workers and you’d noticed Toyota’s profits/spending would take a huge hit due to the additional requirements and pay scale in comparison to other countries. Like you stated, it is a global environment today, everyone is seeming to outsource today. So why try to knock Ford or the domestics for doing this, while everyone else, including Toyota is doing the same?
Mike H –Some info for review on how many Americans are employeed per 2500 cars sold. So even with the domestics moving outside the US, they still employee 2-3 times as many Americans. Ford employees 80 Americans for every 2500 vehicles while Toyota employees 33 for 2500 sold.
http://www.levelfieldinstitute.org/jpc_rating.html
Justin with all do respect you’re doing the same against Toyota.
Justin – Great link to the “jobs per car” info. It’s a really interesting metric. However, I think there’s a hole in the logic being used. People don’t usually decide between Toyota and Ford on a generic basis. They decide between specific models – i.e. a Ford F150 and a Toyota Tundra. I don’t have any numbers, but if we were to assume that some percentage of Ford’s employees (say 15%) were responsible for building the F150 and use that smaller total jobs number to come up with a “jobs per F150” rating, I don’t think it would be much higher than Toyota’s “jobs per Tundra” rating. At least not twice as high. Seems like a good blog post…
Mickey: Not sure what you mean? Looking at my last two posts, I’m not sure what I’m doing/saying against Toyota. Just countering points made in previous posts with my thoughts, real world experience and a little data I’ve come across. Don’t see where I have said anything negative against Toyota, just pointing out some factors that will impact any make/model vehicle. Let me know.
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Admin (Jason): Very true. I’d like to see the break down per make/model vehicle. I’d venture to guess you are probably right about the Tundra/F150 employment, being many F150s are now built in Mexico & Canada. Also, I’m unsure if the Toyota figures include/exclude Lexus/Scion and if Ford includes/excludes Lincoln/Mercury/Mazda/Volvo. It was simply to provide some data on the employment of Americans by the auto manufacturers, since Mike had brought up that Ford is sending many products outside the US, which may be good for business, but not so good for the US economy and workers.
Justin – For sure. It’s a good metric I think, but the whole “buy an American truck” argument is just a little flawed, especially when it someone advocating the purchase of a Dodge or Chevy over a Tundra. Now when it comes to a lot of the rest of Toyota’s vehicles, clearly buying American helps more U.S. auto workers.
Justin I did read that blog. Intresting I can say. My only issue I have with that is where I live now the house is 1 year old. When I built this house it costs an extra $10,000 for schools in the area. My problem I have no kids in school so why should I have to pay? Just something different that had a similar meaning with the blog. Thanks for putting it out.
I agree with an earlier comment that in the Texas sun you can’t read the clock, especially if you are wearing sunglasses. I also wish that there was a compass; I didn’t realize how much I missed it. Finally, I wish there was a phone holder or space to attach one. The perfect place would be where the coin holder is on the dash. I don’t use the coin holder because since the truck was designed to be so quiet on the inside when I placed coins in the holder it made just enough noise to be irritating.
Maybe it sounds like I’m griping, but I am not. I am very happy with my truck; there are just a few things that Toyota might consider for the future. If there are any remedies for these I would like to know.
Glen I agree with you about the coin slots on the dash. No need for it. I had mine a year and still wondering what I can do with it.
Glen – Hopefully Toyota will incorporate your suggestions into the next design – that’s the type of stuff designers really like to hear.
Hello all,
Just bought a used 07 Ltd, 5.7 double cab w/ 9K miles and drove it 1600 miles back to my home. OK, lets talk bed bounce…all pickups do this over concrete highways / expansion joints. My GMC did it very bad, even being a 2500HD, I just saw a Ford super duty doing it and it looked like the bed was going to touch the cab!!! This normal on pickups, all makes all models becasue they have little or no addition support to the frame where the box meets the cab, so it is going to flex, it is not a defect. Now couple that with highway expansion joints and just the right speed and you have bed bounce. The fix??? Add some weight (4 bags of river rock from Home Depot) and drive faster or slower until the bounce goes away. I know, like I said, I just drove 1600 miles in mine. This is the best truck I have ever driven, yes it has a few issues, but overall and considering it the first year for this model, I am very impressed. As for engine clatter / noise, I hear what you are talking about. The fix for my GMC (clattered like an old washing machine when started) was to switch to synthetic oil, which I am doing today. I will let you know the results. Remember most engines in development, are stress tested far in excess of anthing we could ever do to them. So it makes a little noise, still feels good to kick the crap out of a hemi at the green light!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lastly, I saw part of a discussion on the Japan vs USA thing. Keep in mind that nearly all parts for GM, Ford and Dodge cars / trucks are made in Canada and Mexico, then assembled here in the US and you can buy stock in those companies. Toyota uses parts from Japan and Canada (10%-90%) and assembles them here in the US and you can buy stock in Toyota. There really is no such thing as an American built car, only American assembled cars. If the majority of money stays here and is paid to workers here, either way there is no difference. Besides, the US needs all the friends it can get in this world, and I will pick Japan over Mexico, Europe, China, etc.
Question, has anyone experience a discoloration of the factory 20″ silver wheels. There is no curbing or damage, just looks like black spots around the outermost part of the wheel and black drips from the lug nut holes.
Thanks!
2007 Tundra 5.7 SR-5 reg cab pickup 9500 miles
Toyota replaced torque converter and transmission for the “rumble” problem at 300 miles and have acknowledged the problem with certain serial numbers. The replacement torque converter and transmission has a different/new part mumber. Toyota replaced the tail gate after I sprung it removing a 1200 pound bale of hay. The replacement tail gate has a different/new part number and is a more heavily reinforced. I didn’t like the way the front fender liners had been installed, Toyota replaced the liners. The aforementioned problems were corrected at no charge to me, as they are acknowledged problems by Toyota. I also noticed a slight bounce over expansion joints when the truck was new. After a few months of “farm” work the bounce seems to have disappeared, even with 45 lbs of air in the tires. My gas milage seems to fluctuate between 16.5 and 19.5 mpg, depending on the type of driving,
load and amount of ethanol in the gas. It would probably get better milage if the transmission didn’t down shift while applying the brakes decending hills…brake pads might be cheaper than fuel in the final analysis, but I like the feature. I have owned Silverados and Fords and can say that the Tundra drivetrain is the smoothest, by a wide margin. The brake-assisted limited slip rear wheels is indeed a surprise, as it works as well if not better than the mechanical limited slip differential on my old Silverado. The plastic hub caps on my standard SR-5 wheels are discoloring, I suspect I can get Toyota to replace them..free..we’ll see
Martin if you don’t like the downshift of the tranny use the sequential shifter and downshift yourself to your liking and this will halp with your feelings on a down hill slope. Try it and let me know if it helps.
Brian no discoloration here on my rims. Over 36,000 miles. Every 5,000 I rotate and polish the rims so this keeps up with a good look to them.
I have the 2007 Tundra Double Cab Limited 4×4 with the TRD offroad package, about 10,500 miles. I have experienced some “bedbounce” but nothing excessive. I am disappointed by the ordeal it takes to change the oil. The FJ Cruiser has a spin-on filter mounted at the top of the motor. Why couldn’t the Tundra? I have experinced the radio not only turning off, but also the volume going up and down by itself. I thought the A/C vent to the right of the steering wheel was unique to my truck, glad this forum is here to let me know. I have been a loyal Toyota owner Tundra, T100, 4-Runner, Celicas, Corolla, and have to admit that the american parts have been the troublesome ones (delco starter, rather than nippondenso). I now know that I need to take my truck in for the radio replacement before it gets any worse. Thanks.
Does Toyota make fender flares for the 2007 Tundra DC? I had them on my 2001 Tundra, and they do protect the sides. The salesman at the dealership tells me they are avialable, but I can’t find them on the Toyota websites. I would like to see them before I pay $870.
I have an ’08 Tundra dbl cab SR5 5.7l spending the night with me. Supposed to finish the deal tomorrow. I have already felt a vibration while accelerating smoothly at around 30 mph or so. I’m going to go over the entire truck with a fine tooth comb in the morning after reading many of the posts here.
The truck I’m trading in is an ’03 F-150 Supercrew w/4.6l V-8. It has been the best truck of the 12 I’ve owned, it has 106,000 miles on it. I test drove an ’08 F-150 Supercrew and really liked it, but the Tundra rides, and handles better to me, no doubt the resale will be considerably better down the road as well. Unfortunately I was terribly disappointed with my test drive of an ’08 GMC crew cab SLE, I’ve owned more GM trucks than any other brand.
The biggest gripe about the Tundra I have thus far is getting in and out (I’m 6’4″) guess I’ll learn to tuck soon enough 🙂 I’m also wondering how long it’s going to take for other manufacturers to copy the Honda Ridgeline’s side opening tailgate/trunk area. My thanks to whomever is responsible for this forum, hopefully the dealer will have a few answers for me tomorrow and I’ll be the proud owner of a new Tundra.
Jim,
What a GREAT oppurtunity to take this Tundra home and sleep on it 🙂
Your doing your homework and getting your questions ready! My husband and I started out with an 07 Tundra double cab…it had many issues and I posted on here regarding them back Nov. 07.
We were upgraded up to an 08 tundra and WE LOVE IT!
No problems so far and we would NOT trade it in! Be LEARY of the 2007 and even consumer digest reccomends to stear clear of them as there are MANY issues with the 2007 Tundra’s and Toyota is NOT willing to do a recall. The Dealership NOT Toyota, Bought our 07 back and upgraded us into an 2008! Like I said We LOVE our Tundra!
Good Luck and happy Trucking!
Charles look at an XSP model. They have the flares.
Another observation. I have driven on concrete highways and have not noticed much bed bounce. I have a Line-X sprayed in bed liner, so that may be a factor in controlling the bed bounce.
I have a 2007 5.7 tundra with 12,000 on it and over the last week i have had a lot of blue and white smoke opon starting it.toyota says they can’t find anything wrong.I have changed the oil every 3000 miles at the dealership! any help.
i hate these comments about the toyota tundra. i want a UAW OR A CAW MADE TRUCK. buy a chevy or a ford. dont buy a ddoge use a lot of forien parts. there made by quality uaw workers. i want to support my UAW GM WORKERS FROM FORT WAYNE INDIANA,PONTIAC MICHIGAN,FLITN MICHIGAN AND THE CAW WORKERS FROM OSHUWA CANANDA. UAW AND CAW get better wages and better healthcare than a toyota worker. hey you ever heard of toyota overworking people in japan and those toyota workers were overstressed and then died. i want a truck made by workers who are treated good. SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL UAW AND CAW!!!!
Bob, You simply have too much time on your hands. Silly you come to a Toyota website and promote buying a failure product. You can have your unions. I’ve been there done that.
I bought an ’07 Tundra within 3 weeks of their debut. I wanted one of the first in my area for business reasons. At 1000 miles I added a 3″ leveling kit and 305/55R20’s on Detata rims. I was a bit bummed about the lack of availability of aftermarket parts for a long bed (it took about 4 months to get an ARE topper), but they have finally caught up.
I traded my ’05 GMC 2500 w/ a Duramax for the Tundra, due to the overwhelming problems with the Duramax (in the shop for 2 months after only 11 months after driving it off the lot). I absolutely LOVE my Tundra – Power, Ride, Asthetics, Interior, you name it! I occasionally tow a 26′ bumper-pull flat bed w/ 2 off-road rigs (FJ40 and a Samurai), with a combined weight of close to 11k lbs. I know, that is over the max capacity – of 10,200lbs for my long bed double cab, but as I said, occasionally, and I have added air bags to the rear, and a high quality trailer brake controller – and, the trailer has double axle brakes – and, I am VERY aware of safety issues, and drive accordingly.
I have only experienced one problem to date (33k miles) – Warped rotors! I know this was an issue on older Tundras, and I know some of you will think that because of what I tow, I am hard on them. Truthfully, I NEVER ride the brakes, I ALWAYS downshift when descending hills (towing or not), and I have had no “emergency braking” issues… so what gives??
Has anyone else experienced issues w/ Toyota’s new “big brakes for more stopping power”?
hey ford and gm dominate in sales see
Ford F-Series: 690,589
Chevy Silverado: 618,257
Dodge Ram: 358,295
GMC Sierra: 208,243
Toyota Tundra: 196,555
Nissan Titan: 65,746
if you combine gm sales we crush the competion. if the tundra came in a 3/4 and 1 ton they might pass gmc.
also i do know the tundra has 81% american parts. the silverado has 93% and the ford has 90% and the dodge 64% those are the 1/2 models.
let me tell you this mickey union is better. they are happy workers who can support there families with more money. they dont have to worry when they go to the hospital they have healthcare. toyota has crappy wages and benenfits. and do you remeber what japan did to fellow americans in ww2 they blew pearl harbor to bits.
John – Rotor warp is annoying. It’s usually caused by uneven heating and/or cooling. Sometimes that’s a function of poor metal quality (an uneven alloy “mix”), but mostly it’s a function of use. Heavy braking (like when towing) has been known to warp a set of rotors. I’m not saying that it’s acceptable for rotors to warp – after all the truck is designed to tow – but it’s pretty darn common. In my days of buying cars (I was a used car manager for a few years) I saw it quite a bit on just about every car model I bought. I guess what I’m trying to say is that you’re not doing anything wrong – at least not in my opinion. I think it’s par for the course. Still, if the “warpage” is severe, you might try upgrading to an after-market cross-drilled rotor that will dissipate heat. They’re not much more expensive than OEM rotors. Just wait until you need to replace the rotors (not for quite a while probably), then upgrade. My two cents.
Bob – Sales figures and your WW2 experience have nothing to do with quality. If unions are so great, explain to us why domestic quality was terrible in the 80’s (the UAW’s heyday). Explain why the UAW has gotten smaller every year if their product is so great. Finally, explain why you say “we crush the competition” – are you a GM employee?
Bob you ever work at Toyota? So how you know what they make? If they make less than UAW workers then that tells you you’re being overpaid. Also Bob working in the military gives you great medical coverage but nowhere near the pay you UAW workers get. WWII and Pearl Harbor well no need to go where you’re coming from. Stick with the present and not the past.
well i am a american. you guys can go and fly japan flags on your toyota tundra. i know i am a union paperworker and i know union is better!!!
Bob Swanson: True, GM sales more trucks than Ford, but sales are figured by make (Ford, Chevy, Toyota, Nissan, etc), so by individual brand, Ford still sells more. Now that’s not the reason for this post though.
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You are completly off on your American parts content. Check out the links provided below and you’ll notice the F150 (#1) has the most American parts content of any vehicle, Silverado (#8) falls well short of the 93% you’ve stated. Heck, even the Tundra (#5) has a higher american parts content than the Silverado. Silverado used to be #3, but has dropped. Those are the only 1/2 tons in the top 10 list of american parts content. Now in the 2nd link, the Silverado (85%) has a higher domestic parts content than the F150 (80%), both down from 90%, but the domestic parts content includes parts from Canada not solely American made parts. So you aren’t far off, but still here is the data to support these claims.
http://www.cars.com/go/advice/.....amMade0808
http://www.cars.com/go/advice/.....f=national
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Unions are both good and bad in my opinion. Unions have hurt the domestics a great deal in the last decade. This has also hurt many of the employees. With all the demands and high pay and health care the unions require, which is good for employees, this has also impacted the domestics bottom line, which has been part of the reason these manufacturers have cut jobs. I’m sure these laid off employees would take a pay cut or decreased health insurance coverage to keep their jobs, but the unions won’t allow it. Personally, I think unions have greatly helped the workers over the last couple decades, but they’ve run their course and either need to give up some of their power or for them to end completely. Just my thoughts.
Bob Swanson: per your last comment:
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So the Tundra being made soley in America by American workers is bad? Are you trying to say it’s better to have these people unemployed than working without a union? Whether they are union or not, who cares. This helps the employment rate and economy of the US no matter how you look at it. Seems there are many companies in the US today that do not have a union and their employees are treated well, have good health benefits and have good pay scale, hey sounds like my job and employer. This could turn into a heated conversation, but I’m neither for nor against unions. They have their place, but saying you’ll buy only items that are made by union workers is very narrow minded.
Justin great point… Agree with you.
Regarding the brakes: 33K miles and still smooth. No warped rotors here.
Thanks Mickey!
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Warped brakes can and will impact all makes/models. Sometimes it’s the vehicle design itself, the compounds used by the rotor manufacturer or sometimes it’s the driver. Of course at times it’s all three. Towing will lead to more warped rotors, especially here in CO, where going down many of these mountain passes require excessive use of the brake, no matter if you down shift or not. Getting a trailer brake for towing will decrease your chances of warped rotors and suggested for safety reasons alone. If you know how to replace rotors yourself, this is a simple and pretty cheap fix. You can usually upgrade your rotors for less than you’d pay for OEM through the dealer. Even though this may be a concern/problem for some, I don’t see it as a common problem area that Toyota must address just yet. Simply by the numbers I’ve seen so far, the rotor warp is random and inconsistent.
Jason – Thanks for the comments. I know what causes rotor warping, so I do what I can to avoid those actions. I haven’t changed my driving/towing style since my 3 GMC’s (’99 and ’02 1500’s and an ’05 2500), all of which I towed with, and none of which suffered the same rotor problems, even though they did not have as large of brakes as my ’07 Tundra. I regularly set my trailer brakes for the individual load, so the trailer handles most of it’s own braking, rather than relying on the truck to compensate for the extra weight.
I still believe that my Tundra is a superior vehicle, and although it handles my current towing requirements, I am anxiously awaiting Toyota’s deisel version. In the meantime, I will be replacing my rotors soon, and hopefully I will get more than another 30k miles from the new ones.
I have a 2007 Tundra crew max, I have no bed vibration,the 5.7 engine gets 23 miles per gallon with the cruise set at 70mph in a hilly terrain. I use synthedic oil only and the truck runs like a champ.
When I pull a trailer it uses more gas, but it pulls the boat great and handles outstanding, on boat ramps it does’t scip a beat never slips, sold my Ford truck and will never go back.
The amount of room and the comfort of the ride is outstanding, my only complaint is I don’t think Toyota puts the best tires on the new trucks, I will be replacing these tires at about 45,000 miles instead of 60,000 miles.
Great and thoughtful forum. I have a 2007 Tundra and recognize some of the problems brought out here. However, I didn’t find a reference to the scary combination of “drive by wire” and Toyota’s curious “limited-slip differential” (LSD). I found right away that if I wanted to accelerate quickly on anything loose, e.g. gravel or wet pavement, the truck just won’t go.
One day I was pulling out of a parking lot and didn’t notice the small car that was a bit too close. I floored the accelerator, the LSD system sensed slippage, and the truck just continued to ooze out into traffic. The other car missed. Since then I almost always hit the LSD defeat button right after startup. That of course raises the other specter of a powerful vehicle raising the inside wheel on a turn and spinning the tire. Tragically, I find myself using 4WD now and then just to make a turn on an uphill.
Interestingly, the Chevy P/U I rented before I got the Tundra had “2WD”, “4WD”, and “Auto” on the selector knob. “Auto” seemed to engage a viscous coupling in the transfer case and it acted like the AWD on an Eagle Talon I once owned.
Tom – Good point about the “auto lsd” system. It’s not actually an LSD – it’s an electronic system that applies the brakes on the wheel that’s spinning. It’s a cheaper way to add a LSD to a truck than actually installing a true hydraulic posi-traction type rear end.
Just finished the oil change to 0w20 Mobile 1 and the noise at cold start is nealy gone.
I checked more into the bed bounce and discovered that nearly all pickup owners (not just Tundra) report a flexing of the frame between the cab and box when driving on concrete highways with heaved or lifted expansion joints. Which creates the rocking and frame flex. As with my earlier post, I saw an F250 SD flexing like crazy the other day. On smooth concrete or pavement there is no problem. It seems to be an issue with the expansion joint condition and vehicle speed. Leave it to the DOT to approve roads built in moving sections!!!
As for the UAW fanboy. I want a $70-80 per hour job tightening lug nuts too! Toyota pays their employees a fair wage for the skill level of the job and sinks the rest into R&D, otherwise they would find new jobs…right?? The R&D shows, the first 5.7, double overhead cam, variable valve timing, 4 valve per cylinder engine matched to a very advanced 6 speed AT…If the Tundra wasnt such a great truck the ford, dodge and gm fanboys would not be on this site trying to defend their 1960’s technology trucks!!! Pushrod engines, give me a break. Oh yea, to the guy with the hemi…you bought the “hemi” marketing and all you saw were my tail lights!!!!!!
Brian: Most pickup owners (except maybe Ridgeline owners, but can you really call thay a pickup?) are aware of bed bounce on highway expansion joints. I’ve owned five trucks in my time and yes all have experienced this problem. The issue is that the Tundra experiences much more severe bed bounce that resonates through the cab much more than your typical truck, especially those that are ’07 and newer models. So I agree with your overall point, but have to say that even my ’80 150 or ’85 Ranger never had as noticeable bed bounce as the Tundra has displayed. The 1st Gen. Tundra didn’t exhibit this much bounce.
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Now on the UAW point, do you really think just because they charge $70+ per hour that the worker ever gets half that? There is a lot of overhead costs that play into these costs. So I do agree that the UAW may be overpaying their employees, but not as drastically as you make it seem. So do you think the employees of Toyota in Japan that build the majority of their vehicles that are being under payed and overworked is okay, just because Toyota’s American employees are being compensated fairly? Always two sides to each story. So I’m not saying you’re right or wrong, just need to look at the whole picture.
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Sure R&D has helped Toyota develop a very strong motor and decently reliable transmission, other than the TC shudder, but what about the excessive bed bounce, tailgate issues, driveline issues on 4×4 models, and the other minor issues the Tundra has displayed? All manufacturers spend billions of dollars on R&D, not just Toyota. So be proud of Toyota and what they’ve accomplished, just don’t be blind to all the facts.
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Why do I or anyone need to defend the domestics? Sure some do, but I will point out the goods/bads of any make/model. The domestics produce just as quality built truck as Toyota does. I’m here trying to open peoples eyes that just because a truck has a powerful motor and nice transmission, doesn’t make it the best of the bunch. When was the last time Dodge led in sales or had the best truck due to their 5spd trans, prior to the release of the ’07+ Tundra? When was the last time Dodge or Chevy led in truck sales due to having the most HP from their motor? The Tundra made some serious impacts in ’07 with the Tundra, but you’ll also notice the sales are declining just as much as the domestics. You can complain about the technology of the domestics, but seems that Chevy still gets better mpgs and more sales out of a pushrod motor (5.3L) than the Tundra does with their newer technology. The Tundra is a really nice truck, don’t get me wrong, I defend it just as much as I defend the domestics. Do I consider it the best 1/2 ton on the market, in some aspects yes, in others not so much.
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Now keep in mind you’re comparing a Ram HEMI that debuted in ’02. They’ve got a new model coming out for ’09, with more hp and lb-ft than the Tundra. So depending on the drivetrain loss of the new Ram, you may just be seeing the tail lights of many Rams soon. But in all reality, who gives a dang about who’s quickest in a truck (I know there is a small # that desire this), but the majority of truck buyers want the best overall, most reliable truck, not just one that does 0-60 in 2 less seconds.
Brian, per my comment above in regards to the ’09 Ram. Check out the reviews by MT. If you like 0-60 speed and people seeing your tail lights, looks like Dodge has brought some competition. And the Ram has a 5spd auto vs the Tundras 6spd auto. Would like to see the #’s put down my a Quad Cab and new Crew Cab model of the Ram HEMI though. Either way, don’t know if you’ll be running away from them anymore.
’09 Ram Sport R/T
http://www.motortrend.com/road.....specs.html
’08 Tundra
http://www.motortrend.com/ofth.....table.html
One last point, the ’09 Ram had a shorter stopping distance than the Tundra, with 13.2 front/13.8 back brakes.
“Although essentially carryover technology from the previous gen, the stopping distance from 60 mph was a respectable 135 feet-10 feet shorter than a comparably equipped Tundra.”
Looks like Dodge is upping the bar.
http://www.motortrend.com/road.....index.html
HEY HAS ANYONE HAD ANY MORE PROBLEMS WITH THERE TUNDRA, I HAVE A 07 5.7 CREWMAX..I HAD THE TORQUE CONV. AND A OIL LEAK FIXED ON MY TRUCK ..AND I MIGHT HAVE TO TAKE IT BACK FOR THE SHIFTING ON THE TRANSMISSION IS NOT SHIFTING SMOOTH..
Anyone have the Toyota Brand tube steps? This afternoon I backed up through a small grassy ditch to hook up a trailer and the tube step rubbed ground. The step has four brackets that are bolted to the body. The brackets bent and let the step move up to hit the body, causing a small bend. So I took the step off, and found you can bend the brackets back into place with your hand. I takes very little force. That is disappointing to have such a weak, cheaply made step with Toyota’s name on it. If I didn’t have the steps, then nothing on the truck would have touched the ground. So look out if you have the steps and go over a hump in the ground. I plan to either leave them off or go on line and try to find some like the nerf bars on my jeep. The ones on my 2001 Tundra were much better made, and survived contact with the ground and mud. I wouldn’t want these on a 2WD much less a 4WD like mine.
In the last couple of months I have experienced a shutter of sorts in my 07 CM Ltd 4×4. The shutter isn’t nearly as pronounced as some are experiencing; I am not experiencing the “rumble strip” feeling at all. When I am casually excellerating from a dead stop, (stop sign, stop light) my truck will make it’s initial forward movement and then I will feel a thud (not violent, just an attention getter) and thats the end. From the time I start excellerating to the time of the thud is only about a second maybe two seconds no more. When I first became concerned I thought about it a bit and judging from what I felt, I thought it was the torque converter or the brakes were not calibrated (thought maybe the rear brakes were releasing slightly later than the front brakes ). Now I get online and see all of this torque converter crap. What should I do? I guess I could take it in and “get it fixed”, but I’ve read about people getting their trucks serviced and getting them back with the same problem or worse. Has toyota come out with a solid fix, or are they not sure how to fix it yet? Let me know what you think, but I’m prolly just going to live with it until I hear that toyota has it figured out….I’m pretty upset about this.
If you are looking to get the stated milage on your 5.7 Tundra, look to the air intake that is currently installed. It slows the air down as it enters the engine, thus decreasing the milage this vehicle can get. I installed an after market filter (Volant) and now get a solid 20.2 mpg (hwy) when driving within the posted speed limits (65-70mph). Before this, my best milage was only 17.5 mpg. If I could figure this out, why not the “brains” at Toyota….and if this was applied on all trucks, wouldn’t it increase their overall average?? With their buying power, wouldn’t it be more cost effective for this to be included when this truck was designed?? I think that this truck is great!! I have owned Ford, GMC,Chev., and none can compare. Just keep working to make it better…..
I live in Bolivia South America and I recently bought a 2007 Double cab 4×4 Tundra. Today I was sitting in the street with the motor at idle and it just shut off like it had no fuel. I pulled the gas tank and checked the pump and for dirt. Tank clean but found that there was no power to the pump. I rigged and external wire and the pump worked and the truck started but the wire became hot very fast. I suspect and error with the emergency shut off system but don
2007 tundra dc fwd sliding rear panel shattered, anyone else??
no evidence of foulplay, glass fell inward, completely crumbled…
I HAVE A PROBLEM I AM GOING TO TURN THAT TRUCK HAVING TO PAY TOO MUCH FOR IT. IN 72 MONTHS I WOULD HAVE PAYED OVER 68,000 FOR MY 2007 CREWCAB. I COULD HAVE GOTTEN A CORVETTE FOR THAT PRICE. THIS TRUCK IS NOT WORTH NO WHERE NEAR THAT.
Joe you payed the bank that much for the truck. You didn’t buy it off the lot for that much. Ever look at how much you’re paying for your house? You guess it about 2-3x as much as it’s worth. That’s the price of making loans.
Joe,
Maybe you shouldn’t have bought the truck with such terrible credit. Sounds like you took it with no grease.
I bought an 07 d-cab brand new off the lot and immediately started hauling FEMA trailers. 3 to 5 a day, 120+miles each way, 6000 to 10,600 lbs a piece at speeds of 1 to 97 mph, racing f250s and chevy 2500 pulling less weight from dead stops to interstate speeds smoking them all, racing titans and smoking them, all this and more without one single complaint about my TUNDRA. QUIT CRYING!!! By the way, dodge wasn’t even worth mentioning. haha
KC: Glad to hear you enjoy racing with a load and being the quickest. Only problem is, the most important factor in towing/hauling is how these trucks handle/control the load they are carrying. And hauling loads you state (6K-10.6K lbs) at the speeds you mention (95mph) is not the smartest idea. I like the Tundra, don’t get me wrong, but people bragging about how quick their truck is gets old when there are many other factors that play into how a truck should perform. Not just one feature.
KC – Hauling anything at 97mph is the definition of irresponsible towing. I’m going to assume you were exaggerating – thanks for commenting.
I bought a dcsb4x45.7 and i really like it but over the last year it has ben in the shop many times and over the last 2 months its every other week. so far they have replaced both headers,all 4 cats,both engine mounts,powersteering pump,belt tensioner,rear diff,drive shaft center support bearing, transmission,coil pack,fan shroud,driver seat torn,sun viser torn,and now the truck has lost alot of power so it will be back again. anyone with any info on what i should do please let me know
OK OK! I know hauling loads at those speeds was extremely irresponsible. But when you’re on the road as much as that, bored out of your mind and another hauler bucks up, you get that urge ya know?! I apologize if it rubbed anyone the wrong way, but there was no exaggerating. I just wanted to make my point with how much I enjoy this truck. And I lied about the no complaints thing. If I got bogged down a little in the mud the throttle would shut down and only do about 5 mph. I would have to stop completely in the mud, sinking, to shift back into park and into drive again. I finally did a 3″ lift with 33″ toyo’s and that helped a lot. The truck is fast, but the hesitation you get before it decides to get out of it’s own way is tiresome also. And like a few of you, I have those RUST SPOTS all over the rear two doors and some on the front and back. I am only 5’7″ 165 lbs and dented the side of the bed just from leaning over to the tool box. So there is my complaints. Anymore comments?
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I have the 2007 5.7L Extended cab 4×4 TRD (11k miles). I’ve noticed a sudden jolt when either putting it in Drive or Reverse where the tranny engages and begins to move slightly , and a split second later there is another “final” jolt (as though the tranny has fully engaged its gear). Just wondering if this was normal in others…
Fords doesnt need 380 hp under the box
CAn pull a 50 cow trailer without loose power and a better gas mileage.
Even the box is better
The fx4 has the better off road driving and of course its built ford thought
………….. And the toyota quality it remains to the past ford won the quality tests.KEEP MAKING THE 4RUNNER BUT STOP THE TUNDRA NO ONE WANTS IT
Rambo again in your dreams. It wasn’t till this new model you come out with a truck that can get gas mileage. Imagine where that technology came from. Apparently you haven’t seen much of any testing done by independent testers for all trucks. Your wonderful truck lost to everyone in the tow contest on flat land and going up mountains. It wasn’t till this year your company finally talks about gas mileage. I get 23mpg in my big block I-Force 5.7. Your ford commercial only claims 21mpg and they show that they are towing with this commercial to mislead the public. How low can you go. Your own commercials state that ford is the same or caught up to toyota in quality. Not one states that you passed totoyta quality. Why is that? Remember Rambo Ford will always be known for circling the problem.
mickey, you ain’t really using all 5.7 litres if you’re getting 23mpg. as well, it’s not a big block. it’s 347ci, last i checked, that’s a small block. i drive one as well. i drive it in northern alberta, much of the driving on oil field roads. i get 15mpg, but my right foot is always on the floor. has it been better than “ford tough”? you bet your ass rambo. at least so far, i’ve run fords up here in the past as well. but there are a few things i would have prefered purpose built from factory for my needs. put a truck through the worst conditions possible and you will find all that is good and bad about them. the only problem is i would find just as many faults with any new truck.
Mickey: Gas mileage? Not one manufacturer in the full-size truck was overly concerned with mpgs until the recent gas prices this past summer. Even then, most these trucks bring home between 1 and 3 mpgs difference. Most truck buyers, that use their trucks for the purpose they are built for, aren’t as concerned as the person buying a Focus or Corolla in regards to mpgs. But I’ll admit it’s nice to see the manufacturers are improving in this dept. Also if you read the pickuptrucks.com ’08/’09 full-size shootout, the F150 brought home the best mpgs. The increased mpgs came from making the 5.4L slightly more efficient and dropping the 6spd in the F150. Not from stealing anything from Toyota. And again, Ford did have a 6spd out before the Tundra, but it was being tested in the Expy/Navi before going into the F150. You’ll notice with many of the improvements to the full-size market, Ford usually tests these items out in the Navigator and Expedition prior to the F150. Also, I’d love to see your 23 average mpgs, since not one review I’ve read comes close to this figure and most truthful/unbiased Tundra owners that I’ve read about on Tundra Solutions and Tundra Talk, don’t come close to that figure either. Not saying you haven
Justin I know you keep saying tested on the Expedition/Navigator. So the people who bought those vehicles were guinea pigs? I will keep saying it the way I have simply because it was in our truck before you dropped it in yours 2 years later, also this is a truck forum. That’s a long test. You know you haven’t read Tundra Talk. I’m on there constantly. The other site can go by the wayside. I don’t pay to get ifno about my truck. You’re up in CO and I’m in flatland florida. There’s your difference. Now as for the mpg thing Chevy came out with it first, then Ford, and now Toyota on TV ads over here where I live.
Mickey: In a sense, yes they were Guinea Pigs. I do not deny this. But this is very common with Ford. They do their typical R&D, then install products into slower selling/volume vehicles prior to installing in their big movers. Why do you think the 3V 5.4L went into the Navi/Expy prior to the F150, while the F150 was still using the 2V 5.4L for an additional 1-2yrs?
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Hmm, last time I checked, the Expy/Navi are built on the same platforms as the F150. Same with the Tundra and Sequoia. Sure they have some differences, but are all truly trucks underneath the skin. Yes, I agree Toyota had the 6spd in the Tundra prior to Ford having the 6spd in the F150. Your claim was simply that Toyota had a 6spd first in the truck market, no reference to vehicle. Which I consider the Expi/Navi as an F150 and Sequoia as a Tundra, since they are basically the same overall vehicle.
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Sure it was a long test, but during this time they were redesigning the F150. Why try to build a huge # of 6spd for the 04-08 F150 specs, then have to go back and readjust the trannies a year or two later at a huge expense for the redesigned ’09 model?
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So are you over my shoulder watching what I do everyday and know what sites I frequent? Most my trips to TS & TT are for research and understanding of what people think of their trucks. Have read a few of the threads that Jason has linked. Now I don’t post to either, as just like many of the domestic sites, there is way too much cheerleading going on for the brand of choice. And if you do own a different brand people take that as a red flag to start bashing, name calling, popcorn muscles start flexing and everyone is an internet tough guy. I know on a few Ford sites I frequent, you have those people like myself, who can see the goods/bads of both brands. Then again you have those people that refuse to see any good in a brand other than their preference. I do post here since typically these childish behaviors don’t occur, but you have the few here and there, aka Rambo & Koom, also known as trolls. Sorry if I have missed any other cheerleaders or trolls, these are the most recent ones I could think of/remember.
We do have on TT Luke03 who is a chevy man and like you he isn’t bias but does the same references alot. Keeps most on their toes. We also have a Titan guy who has both trucks a Titan and a Tundra. We did have a few ford guys on there and the one I converse with like yourself was banned for doing something I didn’t see on the site which wasn’t aloud and he also was a good reference. He does have a hopped up mustang which wasn’t pretty but it did the job he wanted by beating anything out there. About the testing on the expedition to me when you say they were just testing on those vehicles and it made it sound cheap. I know those vehicles were far from that and they are very nice vehicles. I just didn’t want those vehicles sounding cheap when they aren’t. I can’t believe I’m defending your Ford Expedition. As far as your 09 model 90% I do like. I just don’t like the front end look. Your 08’s I thought were very sharp in the front end. Now about you on TT I don’t look on your shoulder. I’m on there alot under the same name. If you ever read my posts I do brag a little about my truck in what it’s doing but I don’t impose on a person doing research about the Tundra. You will see me telling them to get what they need not what people on TT thinks they should have. I also invite them to post pics of what ever they go with and give a reason on their choice.
Mickey: We do have some nice Tundra, Chevy & Dodge guys on many of the sites I frequent. We also have the typical troll roll through every so often, but they usually don’t stay too long. And we have the die hard cheerleaders that basically think Ford can do no wrong. Funny how most these sites are all the same, we just bleed different brands. When going to sites such as TT and TS, I usually only look at the user name if they are consistently biased, for or against Toyota/Ford or whatever brand. This helps me understand how to read into their posts. Too biased one way or another, you know you may not be getting all the facts and a lot may be BS, basically take everything they say with a grain of salt. I’ve been wrong about some users though.
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I understand your reasoning behind the Expy/Navi comment. Too me since I follow the 150, I’ve always seen the Expy/Navi as the test mules for future improvements to the 150. Every new item to come out on them almost always gets to the 150 within 2yrs. So they are nice, even though they have their fair share of issues, they aren’t cheap by any means. But Ford followers simply know if it hits the Expy, then it’ll hit the 150 down the road, both good & bad. This may alsio be partly why the Expi/Navi has a worse reliability and quality rating than that of the 150 many times.
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I agree with you on the front end of the ’09 150, at least in chrome, but I do like the headlights and hood. The color clad grille on the FX4 looks much better in my opinion than the chrome. Now, I also dislike the style of the taillights, tailgate and all the dang buttons on the center stack (radio, cd, HVAC, Sync controls, etc). And the font style they now use on the emblems I dislike. Think Ford tried too hard to be aggressive, different or whatever you want to call it with the font style. Agreed, the front end looked much better on the 04-08s than the 09s.
Justin forgot to ask hopefully you had a great Bird day. Me, I fried 2 turkeys while the wife baked one. She invited 24 people over. They all showed up. The wife works on the Navy base so she invited some people over where she works at so they wouldn’t have to be by themselves for the holiday. She will do the same for Xmas.
I don’t know why but my name keeps dropping on this site. My comments above. Jason hopefully you had a great Bday also.
Mickey – Thanks man – happy holidays bro.
Mickey: Many thanks and yes the family and I had a wonderful Bird day! A lot of family, but nearly the # you and the wife had. That’s wonderful that you and the wife would open your home and pocket book/refrigerator to serve our service men/women who do so much for us! I have many friends/family members in the service and I greatly appreciate what you did for these men/women. I hope your Bird day was wonderful and that you and the wife provide a great time for these troops on X-Mas. We all need some friends/family to spend the Holidays with!
Thanks Justin. I know what it was like and that why the wife does this. 21 years in the Navy.
Mickey: Again thank you for treating our troops to a wonderful holiday, and for serving our country! You guys/gals don’t get enough compliments and thanks for the time and sacrifice you put towards protecting and serving our country, to give us the freedoms (such as buying any auto product we prefer) that we have today. I try to tell my friends/family in the service this each and every time I see them, but it’s never enough. I had put much thought in enlisting into the service right out of HS, but took a different route with my life. But again thanks for all you do and please let these troops know on X-Mas I truly appreciate what they do, have done and wish them a Merry Christmas me!
Thanks Justin and you have a great holiday and new year.
I’ve got a 2007 extra-cab with 5.7L engine.
My tenth Toyota and worst to date.
I’ve had the tailgate issue. Take it to the dealer as its an unpublished recall.
I have a thumping I notice at slow speeds. The dealer couldn’t find anything wrong, although they replaced the wheel bearings. Tires were rotated (BFGs) and the problem persisted. They brought in an ‘expert’ to look at it. They decided the thumping was within Toyota Specifications. Recently the thumping problem ‘moved’…it used to be only in the passenger front side. Now the thump feels in the middle of the rig…started just he other day after I put it in FWD to see if the front thump would go away. I rotate the tires every 5,000 miles and have about 20,000 miles on truck.
I’ve had molding come off and now the weather stripping around both doors is warping and separating.
The thumping sounds like your diff’s.
I have a 2007 Tundra 4×4 double cab and love it. I have had a few problems in the past year and a half since I got it. Trans-axel seal was leaking and the dealer had to get one from Japan and this meant my truck sat at the dealer for over 4 weeks. (dealer rented me a Dodge Ram of all things) and then about a year ago the 4 wheel drive system messed up and to make a long story short they ended changing the wiring harness. truck was once again in the shop for a few weeks and dealer rented me a Chevy this time.
So the reason for my post….has anyone had the problem of when going out of four low the truck will not go into any gear ( drive, park etc) unless you follow the instructions to the letter. I’ve had to put the emergency brake on to stop it from rolling away. This has happen to me twice, second time I had it towed into the dealer, because nothing I did could get it back into gear. Once there they apparently where able to get in and get it to work…They kinda made me feel a bit stupid, but I got over it. Now that I know how to do it properly it hasn’t done it since, until yesterday I forgot to take it out of 4 low (half a cord of hardwood and steep, snowy driveway) and my wife took it out for a shopping trip and got stuck in rush hour traffic, when she took it out of 4 low and didn’t follow proper procedure. (talked her though over the phone, the proper way to do it and it worked but she was not happy, and when momma’s not happy, no one is)
Ok, has this happened to anyone else? (Dealer says they all do it, but I haven’t been able to do this with another tundra…)
This all being said I still love my truck and plan to get another one when the time comes.
Thanks
I have owned my 2007 Tundra SR5 Double Cab, Metallic Pyrite, 5.7 liter, 4×2 since Sept 1st 2007. The truck now has 12,000 miles on it and is driven like an old lady. So far I have had the following things replaced under warranty:
1. Slight vibration on accleration at 400 miles:
– Dealer replaced transmission and torque converter as one unit, stating that the problem was a faulty torque converter from the factory. They kept the truck for 4 days and put about 350 miles on it.
2. 9000 miles plus a large transmission fluid leak was detected on my carport:
– Dealer diagnosed a bad drive shaft bearing and seal. Total replacement of drive shaft, bearings and seals. Ralph Hayes Toyota of Anderson, SC refused to pay for expense to clean transmission stain from concrete on my carport.
3. Warping of rubber seals around outside of window trim on all 4 doors. Replacement has not been initiated yet.
4. Both front tires feathering on outboard treads (raised tread):
– Dealer did front end alignment and rotated tires. The other two tires are now doing the same thing.
My complaints:
1.Back up light is not bright enough.
2.Dashboard is too plain, guages recessed too deep into panels.
3.Dasboard and interior trim is made to look rich, but is cheap coated plastic that scratches way too easily.
4. I have a few friends that all own 07 and up Tundras and get exaggerated fuel mileage averages. I get around 15.7 and my buddys are all over the board all the way up to 19.8mpg. Something is really fishy here.
5.Tie down railing system end caps fall off all the time. I finally ditched them.
6.Paint chips very easily….not very durable or thick.
7. Water pools behind outside mirror panels and continues to leak out after detailing causing water stains in paint running down the doors below the mirrors. The panels need to be sealed to the body.
8. Water also pools on small hood scoop located just in front of windshield causing water staining to paint.
9.Engine hesitates at times on acceleration causing a dangerous surge.
10. Excessive Bed and Cab vibration when driving on interstate or rough roads with no load.
11. Base model does not have enough options compared to competition.
Beware:
The last time I took my truck in for an oil change, I checked it a couple of days later and found out the oil was 1/2 quart low.
Also I check my tire pressure often and for some reason the dealer lowers the air pressure. I guess to soften the ride.
What ever you have done at a dealer, always check behind them.
there is a warning light on the sash ( looks like a tire with Asterisk in the center ) that keeps coming on. Is that a traction light ? I have a 2006 v8 4wd tundra. Great truck just concerned about the light. I have it serviced regularly. Is this a problem or could it have been reset improperly when the tires where rotated. Thanks
That warning light is the tire pressure warning light. As the cool weather is upon us….you may want to add some air or nitrogen to your tires. Also, from my experience (2007 5/7 crewmax) the light is very sensitive–too sensitive for me.
Overall I’m pleased with the truck. Got about 16,000 miles and no major issues. I’ve owned trucks made by most manufacturers and this one has served me well and I’m pretty hard on all my trucks. I use the 4×4 every weekend (hunting in the winter and towing a boat or on the beach in the summer). It performs better then my previous trucks as far as towing and in deep sand.
By biggest complaint is the paint. It chips and scratches more then it should for a truck. As I said early, I’m hard on the truck but the paint should be holding up better. I haven’t had the bed bounce problem-not any worse than any other truck.
Another complaint is the traction control system. Nothing like stepping on the gas to jump into traffic and having a second or two delay. And there are other snow, mud, sand examples of the same thing…I’ve gotten in the habit of turning it off when in those types of conditions.
I lease my vehicles. I’ve got a couple of years left on this one. I guess we’ll see what happens between now and then…
Merry Christmas to all.
Bill, Shelton answered your question. I also have the TPW system. I haven’t had an issue yet with that. I have 46,650 miles on it. Had it since July 07. Brad, come on now you will never get anything froma dealer to clean your garage. Ford did that to me too when I had them do an oil change and they never tighten my oil filter. I turned it 2 1/2 complete turns. For number 4 are your tires underinflated? Your complaints #1 back up lights? You expect to light up the neighborhood? I don’t know what to say about #2 other than the fact you seen this before you bought the truck. I’m lost on that one. What’s wrong with looking rich? You could be right about the scratches. I don’t have one on the dashboard but on the arm on the door. I put it there by accident. As far as #4 depends on where and how you drive. Here where I am is flatland so mpg will be higher than the mountains. I avg 20 – 22mpg per tank. Doing 60 mph to and from work helps out. When I do 55mph I can get up to 24.9mpg. Usually it’s close to 24mpg. #5 I don’t know, I never had an issue with mine. #6 Every truck I had constantly got rock chips. My 92 Sonoma the painted bumper in the back peeled like crazy but was told it was rock chips on the back bumper. #7 & 8 use a blower or air from a air tank to blow off the excess. Not an issue to have. I ‘ve heard of #9 & 10 before. #9 Toyota has fixed the trucks that had that issue. #10 you probably won’t get any help with that. Toyota hasn’t admitted it yet. Also it’s only in certain areas of the country and it’s not nationwide. They do have different fixes that was put out by other Tundra owners. #11 falls into the same category as #2 you knew this before. I do all maitenace at the dealers and no I don’t check immediately behind them. I check both vehicles every Sunday morning for fluids and air pressure. Anything goes wrong the dealership has been the only one fooling with my Tundra and Prius. Yes I had my truck in for a few warranty issues and non warranty issues. Pass mirror didn’t auto close evrytime. Fixed in 45 minutes along with oil change. Center console wouldn’t close all the times and I asked for an adjustment and got a replacement and it was ready in 10 minutes. Service advisor wasn’t done with the paper work when ready. Two lugs broke off driver rear and one had a lock nut on it. Dealer fixed and replaced lock set for free. Claimed under warranty. Check engine light was a gas cap not sealing and they replaced cap and didn’t charge for diagnostics. I do have 2 scratches on my tailgate from a runaway Home Depot metal cart. If you found your oil to be 1/2 quart low take it back and have it filled up. They keep records of when you were there. You do have a few legitimate complaints but not as much as you’re listing. Make sure you notify Toyota Corp and NHTSA for your bed bounce. Remember I don have that issue but the more people file complaints with NHTSA will make them investigate it and force a recall.
Shelton Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and your family also.
I don’t know why this keeps happening but the name keeps dropping. My comments above.
Mickey: Every time you go to make a post, simply double check to ensure your “Name” and “Email Address” are input above the comment section. I notice every once in a while, like this post for example, where my information was blank or had been removed, so I had to put it in again. Only happens once in a while, but I’m wondering if this is some Jason (Admin) can look into. Unsure if it’s a cookie issue or upgrades to the system that is clearing our our information. Not a biggie to me, so I just double check before submitting. Not sure if this is your problem, but just a heads up.
Curious about the easily chipped and scratched paint. My truck, not a Tundra, has been on the roads here in CO for 2yrs (12/02/06) this month. Only chips if you can call them that, are very small (basically un-noticable if that’s a word?) marks in the plastic chrome grille surround. Otherwise the bumper cover, chrome bumper and fenders have zero chips. Which here in CO, you do see a lot of chipped front ends due to the rocks they put down in the winter for de-icing and traction. Many times it’s from people following too close to the car in front of them (tailgaters?). Scratches, well there are a couple very minor scratches, but these were done by the wife putting the baby stroller in the back seat, with all but two buffing out very easily. The two remaining aren’t noticeable unless you are really looking hard for flaws. I’ll agree the paint on my ’06 is thinner than on my ’02, but still very durable and scratch resistant. From what I’ve read, this is a common complaint from many ’07+ Tundras owners.
Justin – I’ll look into it, but I don’t know if there’s much that can be done. It’s a cookie issue for sure, but many browsers have add-ons that delete or ignore them. Still, I’ll check it out.
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As for the scratches, I honestly believe that Toyota buyers have a higher set of expectations than most vehicle owners. While I do believe that the Tundra’s paint could be better (ALL paint would be better if paint manufacturers could use dangerous chemicals that have been outlawed), I can tell you that from my experience Toyota paint, as a rule, is superior to most domestics and has been for a very long time. It’s more forgiving than most when it comes to buffing out scratches, etc. Still, it must be said that most automakers use the exact same paint and processes, so my perception of Toyota paint being better isn’t too likely. Of course, neither is the alternative. Plastic parts are a different bag. They can be painted in a number of ways, and the processes used differ by supplier. None of the complaints are about the plastic parts – it’s the metal. My gut is that paint problems are more about perception than any significant difference, and my experience says that Toyota paint is better than most, so I’m at a loss here. Ditto for the other TundraHQ contributors.
Admin (Jason): Thanks for checking. Like stated, not a major concern of mine, simply trying to give Mickey a little heads up that I’ve noticed.
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Are we talking about quality of paint or actually the thickness/layers applied. Sure they can go hand in hand, but you can have the best paint in the world, but too thin of a layer and it’ll be prone to scratch much easier. Maybe it’s too thin of clearcoat or lesser quality cleacoat. Who knows for sure other than Toyota.
Justin – Thickness is pretty much the same across the board (Ford, GM, Toyota, whatever). The process, as I understand it, involves only one step. The primer, the color, and the clear are all applied at once. As I said, since the paint and the process are pretty much the same, I doubt there’s any reason to think one brand does paint any better than another. Still, when it comes to buffing out scratches on a used car, it’s ALWAYS easier to do so on a used Toyota or Honda than it is on all the domestics. Perhaps they use a higher quality paint? Anyone know for sure?
has anyone had any problems with the transmission after getting the torque converter replaced…? im still having problems with it..but I want to know if I’m the only one or are there others out there…any new recalls lately that anyone has heard of ? beside the torque and the camshaft..? thanks..
Just checked only one recall on the 2007 4×4’s driveshaft (propeller shaft).
Luis they have 10 TSB’s on an 07 Tundra.
10. Steering: Electric Power Assist. TSB: T-SB 0133-08
9. Powertrain: Driveline, Driveshaft. TSB: T-SB 0155-08
8. Powertrain: Automatic Transmission. TSB: T-SB 0055-08
7. Engine: Engine and Cooling Engine. TSB: T-SB 0029-08
6. Powertrain: Torque Transmission. TSB: T-SB 01807
5. Powertrain: Manual Transmission. TSB: T-SB 01207
4. Latches: Tailgate Latches. TSB: T-SB 01107
3. Brakes: ABS/ABS Warning Light. TSB: T-SB 00307
2. Unknown or Other. TSB: T-SB 0701
1. Electrical: Instrument Panel. TSB: T-SB 00207
Don’t understand the unknown or other. But here you go. You have to read into the TSB’s to find out what you got. The one they have for transmission only states fluid coming through at the yoke. So it’s a seal leak. Hope it helps. Go to http://www.odi.nhtsa.dot.gov
My comments above. This time my name was on it when I pressed post my comment but took several minutes to post and then anonymous showed up.
As you can see luis nothing on camshaft………..
Has anyone managed to get Toyota to correct the clicking/rattling like a diesel sound on the 5.7 Tundra engine? I’ve been asking for help with this problem for oven a year now and I
Bryan – Toyota does claim that the dieseling/ticking noise is entirely normal, and while it’s a hotly debated topic, it’s not going anywhere. Toyota knows how to build a DOHC engine (as well as anyone) and if they say it’s fine, that ought to be good enough. Still, I certainly understand your frustration and you are not alone. The RPM increase with the lights is normal, and I sincerely doubt 300 RPM is going to make any difference in your ability to stop your truck (no offense, but seriously). The downshift is normal – it’s part of the truck’s grade logic. The computer has determined that’s the best course of action based on the factory settings and your individual driving style. It’s not hurting anything either, btw. Finally, the occasional oil on startup is normal. If you want to try letting your truck idle for a few seconds (10) before you shut it off, that might help.
2007 5.7LT DBL CAB, 18000 MILES, TRUCK DOES HAVE DIESEL SOUND AND HAS
FROM START, LOUDER WHEN COLD, DEALER SAYS, ITS NORMAL. CLEARLY THE SMOOTHEST TRUCK I HAVE EVER OWNED. JOY TO DRIVE, DO FIND TRANSMISSION “WONDERING OR HUNTING” IN MORNINGS AT SLOW SPEED AFTER LEAVING HOUSE. FACTORY BRIDGESTONES WERE CRAP. PUT MICHELINS ON AND ITS A NEW TRUCK. SMOOTHER AND DOESENT WONDER
ON HIGHWAY AS MUCH. ASIDE FROM DIESEL WORRIES. TRUCK STILL 9+ OUT OF 10.
Bryan: The engine noise is noticeable. My 07 Tundra emits the same type of noise your are referring to. However, I use the 5W-20 mobil engine oil and the noise seems to go away upon warm-up. Without question, it is tolereances associated with the valve/cam set-up and nothing else(engine heats up and goes away). Toyota considers it normal because post engine teardown all components will be within print specifications ie considered normal(design intent). Next, your high speed idle: this issue is real regardless of what Jason states! 300 RPM is noticeable and it makes a significant difference when attempting to stop the vehicle. This is the designed break-in mode for the engine(should not last longer that approx 1500 to 2000 miles of use). I changed the exhaust on the truck, unhooked the negative battery post as required for installation of the exhaust and noticed the ECM performed a reset and went away shortly after. Your truck should perform the same way or go to the dealer they can adjust of flash the ECM to correct. Grade Logic: its a joke, and only burns fuel. The design is a copy cat of engine breaking application(the poor man’s version). I call it the “fuel burner”. Lastly, smoke on start-up, quick starts and stops without bringing the engine to operating temp will create this condition. Moving the truck in and out the garage for example will result in this type of emissions. Either way, you have legitimate concerns about your truck, the fast idle really should be addressed if the issue persists from a safety standpoint(mention safety at the dealership and it will get resolved). Those are the facts…Jason, stop acting like Bryans father…
Rick – Fair enough. I’m not trying to belittle anyone’s problems (and I apologize if I’ve offended anyone), but at the same time it’s a little ridiculous to nit-pick an otherwise top-quality truck. When I was selling Fords a few years ago, I remember seeing trucks come in with diesel exhaust pouring out like the engine was on fire, F150’s blowing spark plugs right out the side of the engine (and often right out the side of the fender too), and quite a few Explorers with transmissions that seized up after 100 miles or so. My point: If the only problems you have with your truck are a fast idle here and there, a small, occasional whisp of smoke at start-up, some clicking, and an electronic feature that you don’t like, you’re doing OK in my book. Toyota is a victim of it’s own success – people expect too much in my opinion.
Jason (Admin): If it’s ridiculous to nit-pick the Tundra for issues such as this, since it’s so top-notch, then why is it okay for Tundra owners to nit-pik any other full-size truck? To me, these trucks are basically all on equal footing, with each having an advantage in a certain area. So if people are going to nit-pik any other make/model, then it’s only right for people to do the same in return. Toyota IS a victim of their own success and they continue to try and live off that. So don’t you think there are people out there that have never owned a Toyota, hear all these reviews and good things about how great they are, purchase a Toyota based on this, then end up finding out they weren’t much, if any better than their prior domestic/import vehicle? My aunt recently experienced this with her Rav-4. After 2 years in the Rav, she got into an Escape and now feels much happeir in her selection. You have to expect problems will arise with any make/model, but seems to often many Toyota owners act like their vehicles are immune to this.
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Explorers blowing transmissions was a huge issue with the 4.0L version, including the 1st, 2nd and 3rd Gen. models. Being a different tranny was used in the 5.0L & 4.6L versions, those models weren’t impacted. With the many people I know who own/owned Explorers (myself included), and the many people I speak to thru the net, even though this was an issue, it seems you are making it out to be more than it was. I’ll admit most I’ve heard/read occured between 30K-50K miles, but not anywhere close to only 100 miles. I know there have been reports of 5.4Ls blowing plugs, which has occured, don’t deny it. But again this is a very minor portion of all the trucks made. People have been impacted by these problems, but not anymore than say the Tacoma rusting frames, engine sludge, ball joint and other problems that have impacted Toyota owners. My point being, and again, is every make/model has it’s problems, no manufacturer is immune to problems. So it’s nice to point out some Ford flaws, but have to admit and accept Toyota’s at the same time.
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Engine idle increasing 300rpms, I’d be concerned. Running an extra 300rpms can be hazardous in the long run, both for safetly and longevity of the vehicle, not to mention the increased fuel usage. Could be as simple as a reflash of the PCM. My truck only idles high upon warm up (no diesel type noise either), for roughly 5 minutes if sitting there, less if I start driving sooner than the 5 minute mark. Smoke out the exhaust is of concern, at least to me. Such a new vehicle smoking, for whatever reason, isn’t good. Now if it’s the puffs of white exhaust that is typical of all vehicles upon cold starts, I wouldn’t worry. But black, blue or excessive white smoke could be antifreeze, water, gas or oil burning. If blue (oil), I’d be concerned and have it checked ASAP, most likely a gasket. If black, it’s running too rich and may cause problems in the long run, but most likely is only fuel remaining in the cylinder that was unburned when you last shut the truck off. No matter what smoke, if you have a warranty and it seems out the the ordinary, I’d have it checked.
Bryan, Rick my truck doesn’t make the noise you’re talking about. I have 48,000 miles on my 07 Crewmax. Also haven’t seen any smoke or have any issue with it idling high. It will idle high in the morning at first start then it drops down like it suppose to within a minute or two. Rick no need for last comment. Jason has in no way converse to Bryan in a belittle manner. He just puts out what he knows just like you did. Get off your high horse. Justin yourself you state it was an huge issue about the tranny’s but you state Jason is making it out more than it was. Did I miss something “Huge Issue”? As far as plugs blowing don’t say it isn’t a problem to my works mechanic’s. He has two Ford vans down now with blown out plugs. One for a second plug. Justin Jason has admitted flaws before and you know it too. If you don’t like the notion of saying something bad about ford then maybe you’re in the wrong forum.
Justin – My comments weren’t an attempt to prove that Toyota was better than Ford so much as they were an illustration of the difference between a “problem” and a PROBLEM. Transmission failures and spark-plug projectiles are PROBLEMS. Too much clicking on an otherwise excellent vehicle is a “problem.” I think you’re all wet on the extra 200-300 rpm causing long-term problems. If the engine has extra wear due at any “extra” RPM, it’s bad news and it won’t take more than a few hundred miles before you’ll know it. If you’re worried about the 0.1 mpg that you’re losing because of that extra 200-300 RPM, then I feel for you. Of course, you could get it back 30 times by driving 55mph on the highway, accelerating slowly, and driving as conservatively as possible. Most new vehicles blow a little black smoke at start-up, it’s a natural byproduct of the combustion engine. That’s why cold-start emissions regulations were implemented a few decades ago. Grade logic and self-learning ECMs are here to stay, and if someone doesn’t like the way the engineers decided to calibrate the transmission then they should probably go to engineering school for 4 or 5 years, work in the field designing and testing transmissions for another 10, and then march down to Toyota Engineering and explain to all those experienced educated engineers that they’re all morons. Honestly, I think that people expect a vehicle to be perfect. Yet Best Buy sells $200 electronics that can blow up the first time you take them out of the box, Wal-Mart has shelves full of $20 crap that falls apart after a few weeks, and brand new houses come with a warranty because they’re always something that wasn’t built right the first time. If a $20 investment at Wal-Mart doesn’t come with expectations of perfection, and new $500,000 homes come with warranties and guarantees (because they need them), then why the hell can’t we just accept that a new vehicle might not be perfect? This post is wearing me out…sorry if I’m getting personal.
I’ve been reading all of this back and forth comments about how one manufacturers may suck more than the other one and the other one doesn’t and vice versa but the truth of it all is that if it’s man made it will never be perfect! What makes ANY product better than the other one is the warranty and how the manufacturer stands behind their product during the warranteed peroid and more importantly after it expires especially on a known problem after the fact. Toyota has proven their commitment to their products and their customers numerous times in the past and i’m sure in the future. It’s in their track record. The VO6, XO1, Oil Sludge SPA and countless other one’s prove their commitment. My cousin just had his 1991 3.0 V6 Toyota pickup truck in to the dealer for the VO6 campaign to be performed and walked out with a new shortblock and one new head replaced all under warrnty on a 17 year old truck. Is it stupidity on Toyota’s part to payout more than what the truck is worth on a repair or is it commitment to their products and customers? I choose COMMITMENT and thats why I own a 2007 Tundra 5.7 4×4 and countless other Toyota vehicles and trucks for my personal and business use.
Mickey: Let me clarify my statement. I meant huge as in impact of reputation and negative PR. Just like Dodge, they’ve had some tranny issues in their Ram/Durango in the past, this has brought a real negative reputation to the Ram/Durango and Dodge in particular, even though the actual failures aren’t what many are lead to believe. Otherwise if you look at the statistics of the # of Explorers built, vs the # that actually had transmission failure it is not an abnormally high figure, based on the percentages. Now I do admit and anyone must, if you have a problem like this, or like you’ve had with your Fords, it leaves a bad taste in your mouth. Many of these people who may have been burned by the transmission failure usually make their voice heard, but what about the many many more people that never had a tranny problem in their Explorer. My 99 Explorer never had a tranny issue, but did have nagging little issues (pwr ant, rear wiper, driver heated seat core, radio display) You only hear the negatives about domestics anymore it seems, never a positive, and if positive someone tries to bring a negative tone to the topic. So yes the Explorer may have had more tranny failures than say a 4-Runner of the same years, I wouldn’t doubt it. But you also have to look at the sales figures the Explorer produced over and above the 4-Runner at that time. Remember the Explorer at one time was the hottest selling SUV on the market, being the best selling SUV on the market for 12 years running (400K+ each year).
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The blowing plugs are an issue, I don’t deny it. But not as over blown as many are tyring to make it out to be. Again look at the statistics of how many 5.4L motors have been produced and the number that have actually blown a plug. Being a member of 4 Ford forums, speaking with who knows how many people, I can only recall maybe 5-10 people that have had a blown plug, this since roughly 2001 when I started looking into forums. Also, I’ve owned 2 5.4Ls and have many friends/family with them and they never had a plug issue. I admit the problem is bigger than I’ve seen, but also not as big as you seem to be making it out to be. The 5.4L has gone into E150, E250, E350, Expeditions, Excursions, F150s, F250s, F350s, and limited edition Mustangs for years and probably some other vehicles that I’m not thinking of. Just the F-Series trucks alone sold over 600K+ units in an individual year, sure not all were 5.4Ls. But say Ford sold 1M of the above mentioned vehicles in a year, and 5K had a plug blow, that .5% of the trucks, a very small figure in total. Even if it was 10K of those trucks, that’s still only 1% of all those trucks. Again it’s an issue that Ford has corrected on new models, but to act like the sky is falling is a little overboard is all I’m saying.
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I have no problems with people, Jason included, stating Ford or any other make has an issue(s). My problem is when people act like Toyota is immune to failures/problems. Which we’ve seen over the last several years, Fords quality improve, while Toyota has held its mark or dropped from previous years. Reviewers are starting to notice this trend too. Sure Toyota still may be better in overall quality than Ford, but the people testing these vehicles on a day to day basis are seeing the gap narrow quickly.
Jason (Admin): Thanks for the clarification and I understand where you are coming from. No offense taken, everyone has their own opinion and perspective. Some of your points I do agree with, some not as much.
Understand and I copy what you’re saying. Just reading that part kind of made me wonder what you’re saying. As for the blown plugs out of the vans the mechanic is more blaming the plug than ford. It was something like the aluminum housing? Not sure where he was going and again I wasn’t paying much attention either.
does the vsc amd 4 wheel drive make awful sounds when you break traction on the 07 tundra??
Josh – Yes. It’s normal to hear all hell break loose when ABS activates, and traction control can often sound and feel like something broke in the power-train.
What is the reason for a heavy jerk when the gear is shifted from park to reverse or from park to drive in a Toyota TownAce CR 42 (Auto Transmission)
Guess this could be seen as both a Tundra and Toyota overall problem. Speculation right now, but if true, they are on par with the likes of Ford. Bet that will make most people here either shutter, or deny these claims, which I think there will be more of the latter.
http://www.autolinedetroit.tv/.....#more-2431
http://www.autoblog.com/2009/0...../#comments
P.V.A. – It’s doing that because it’s broken, sir.
Justin – You’re smarter than that man! 🙂 Toyota isn’t anywhere close to running out of cash. They haven’t even begun to access lines of credit, leveraging assets,etc. Comparing Toyota’s financial situation to Ford is like comparing White Castle sliders to an entire meatloaf.
Admin (Jason): Hmm, okay Toyota has talked about lay offs, have a loss in the 4th quarter of ’08 (28% drop from 2007) for the first time in what 70yrs, the surge in yen and projecting a $1.7B loss. So there are signs of them hurting. As much as Ford, most likely not, but be realistic from your end as well. They, just like most every automaker, are in a tough period that doesn’t look to get better anytime soon. So simply to discredit these reports is kind of short sighted. I know this isn’t what Toyota fans like to hear, but the Big 3 fans have been getting heat for a while for the same reports about the Big 3. Wouldn’t it be hypocritical to say it’s a problem for the Big 3, but not any import, whether it’s Toyota or BMW?
Justin – I stand by my earlier comments. Toyota’s financial circumstances are completely different than those of Ford, GM, or Chrysler. Toyota has few legacy costs, billions in assets that can be cashed (they own portions of Isuzu and Subaru, for instance), they fully own TMCC, and they’re not nearly as dependent upon the North American auto market for financial success. It’s apples and oranges – “cash on hand” is but one measure of solvency, especially when you’re comparing Toyota to Ford (as leveraged as heavily as any company can be).
I have a 2007 5.7 liter trd off road tundra. I just recently had a remote starter put in and they bypassed something because i didnt have a spare key for them to use. Ever since then, my abs,and traction light are constantly on. My 4 hi and vsc lights flash. When i first start the truck the only light on is my abs. then once driving all others come on. The installer of the remote starter insists he didnt do anything and its just a coincidence. I dont know if its the truck or the starter. I also cant put it in 4 wheel drive once moving and with lights flashing. I have to shut the truck off and switch it then. Please help.
Mark: Was the remote starter installed by a Toyota dealer or an aftermarket store? What brand and series remote starter did you purchase if aftermarket?
In addition to my previous post, now i do think its the truck and not the starter, cause i am now hearing a banging thumping kind of noise come from under neath the truck but only periodically. What would make this noise and make all my lights go on at the times they go on?
Thanks for any help~
Justin: It was an autocommand starter which was NOT installed by toyota.I dont know the series…all i know is it says cs600 on the remote i have for it. I am going to take it to toyota to get it looked at as it is under warranty, but i was worried it would void the warranty if it was the starter causing it. But now i hear the banging,so i think its the truck…i just dont know what though.
Mark: Sounds like you have multiple issues going on. Now Toyota may conduct the work for the “Bang” noise, but if you explain the electrical gremlins came about after the install of the remote starter, they may charge for diagnosis. If I were you I wouldn’t mention the problems starting after having the starter installed. Now others have stated they get a thud, clunk, bang type of noise at times, but can’t for the life of me remember what the issue was caused by. Now this “Bang” noise doesn’t happen when you engage/disengage 4WD does it? If so, then we can narrow down that problem quickly. On the gremlins, I’d have to say if you didn’t have them prior to the install, the shop that installed it has tapped into some wiring they shouldn’t have, but can’t say for sure. Good luck with the Dealer. Please post back your results after visiting Toyota.
Mark – It’s the remote starter sir. They bypassed the key and that’s the problem now with your electronics.
so do you think if i go back and have them undo the bypass and give them a spare key to put under there, it might straighten up all the problems im having?
Just a little update: I had an appointment to go to toyota this thursday, however i didnt make it that long…last night the truck broke down and had to get towed. That banging type noise i previously heard got real bad and made the truck undriveable. Its now at toyota, and i will post back to let u guys know what the deal is. Thanks again for ur help to this point.
Mark: Sorry to hear, but good luck with Toyota and hopefully your trucks not down too long. Please do post back what the problem was and how it was cured.
Any one has experience with Tundra 2008?
I have a 2007 with 50,000 miles on it. Not sure what you’re looking for.
I wish I had found the issue I’m dealing with on your list. I’ve found a couple other posts on the NHTSA website and Edmonds forum on it though so I know it’s out there.
Basically my 4wd got stuck shifting into 4-low and the 4-low light started blinking fast then slowly. After that the truck wouldn’t engage the wheels in drive or reverse. Switching to 4-high did no good as the truck sounded like it was trying to engage but just wasn’t engaging the transmission… so no power to the wheels. The same thing with 2wd, so basically dead as a doornail; no power to the wheels.
Something was running in the background in some kind of loop trying to engage the different 4wd systems even with the key out and that ran the battery dead – fast!
After trying to get it on a flat bed tow truck to get it to the dealer was unsuccessful because of the truck’s enormity and positioning I gave up, put a battery charger on the battery overnight and went to sleep.
When I awoke the truck fired up (battery was again charged) and the truck was magically in 4×4-high without the 4×4-low blinking light. The wheels magically engaged so without turning the truck off I drove it to the dealership.
The dealer has yet to find the problem (they’re having trouble duplicating it), but I am not taking it back until they do as I have lost confidence in the truck at this point.
Add this to your list of Tundra problems!!
I have a 2007 Tundra 2 WD ext cab bought used with 4000km I have the problem with the transmission shifing down when not needed and not shifting up when needed.I don’t have the vibration problem.I also have had the rubber /plastic strips that fill the weld joints on top of the cab fall off .The door handles are very loose and sweek every time I shut the doors.I also have the engine knock that is getting worse now that the truck has 10000 kms on it .I can’t tell you how disapointed I am with the quality of this truck.I’ve owned all brands of domestic trucks and was very excited when Toyota started to build a full sized truck.I run a construction business and have very little time for the truck to be in the shop for quality problems.I’m going to try to schedule the repairs ,I’ll let you know what happens.If anyone has simalar problems please post them.
Signed ,Let Down By Toyota.
Has anyone had issues with the belt tensioner ‘chirping’ excessively. I went in for my last oil change and asked them to look at it. The lady at the service desk stated that she did not need to look because mine would be the 5th 2007 tundra of the week to come through with that problem. I had 46,000 miles at the time and they said I would have to pay for repairs since I was out of warranty. I understand a warranaty is a warranty and must have time restraints but I felt they should address if the problem is as big as she led me to believe. Any feedback?????
My tensioner was replaced also but it was from a deer strike with about the same mileage as you Steve. They replaced the belt also. It was well over $10,000 in damage on front end. I’ve heard others complain about the same thing.
Steve – I agree that Toyota should take care of it if they know it’s a problem, but the same could be said of the bed bounce issue…and they haven’t done one thing about that. I’ll look into it and see if I can find some info from my dealer friends…
I have a 2007 Tundra and to date I have had the transmission, driveshaft and front differential replaced. Now the truck accelerates without help. I finally was able to have a Tech from Toyota come and look at it and of course they could not duplicate it, this has been going on since I bought this truck and nothing can be done about it. I have seen many posting of the same problem but as far as I can tell Toyota has no idea what is causing this. I am very unhappy with this truck and will never buy another Toyota again. If anyone has a solution please tell me.
Tundra issues I have had are:
1- poorly designed oil filter cap very hard to get off even after unscrewing the cap over 1/2 way off.
2- outside plastic/rubber cowling below windshield wipers touching front windshield made excessive noise while driving and had to be double sided tape down to reduce the popping noise while driving.
3- drivers door panel touching side of front dash when closing door, had to adjust and tighten driver’s door to not touch
4- drivers door plastic push pin came loose and had to glue it it to make it stay
5- drivers door silver area where door locks and side window controls are is loose and needs to be tightened yet still under warranty probably due to the fact that the drivers door has been taken apart at least twice now for issues
6- rusted front and rear bumpers and lug nuts still waiting response from dealer
7- Odd, very stinky odor coming from vents ONLY happens when run the A/C or defroster and immediately goes away when you turn the knob to vent only.
Maria I know this is simple but do you have the original mats or an aftermarket mats in your truck?
Sorry Maria somehow it poisted before I could finish. Aftermarket mats have been known if it’s the kind that goes underneath the gas pedal it sticks the gas pedal to the mat. If not aftermarket mats I heard one other Tundra owner state this complaint on another forum with no results in fixing it.
MK it isn’t a poorly desined oil cap it’s for the dealer to work on. It wasn’t intended for the DIY. For #2 I heard that complaint from other Tundra owners and most had it replaced at the dealers. I had the same in #3 and yes it’s an adjustment on the door nothing much. For #4 & 5 yes take it in and make sure they do a good job to your satisfaction. #6 has to have corp sign off on it first. Which corp has been doing. The dipping process wasn’t done right by who Toyota used and they are replacing them. You have to give the dealer a little time to get the replacement. I’m suprise they didn’t have a factory rep see it first. The dealership would love to replace the bumpers but would end up out of pocket to the dealer if Corp doesn’t sign off and no one is in the market to lose money. This is a known TSB on it. All I can say Sorry for the inconvience. I had my share of that on other vehicles. #7 also has been stated by a few other Tundra owners about the smell in other forums. I can’t remember what the dealer did to fix that. All should be taken care of at the dealer. Keep us informed on the bumper issue. Personally never had the rust issue on bumper or lugs.
Crasel we do english here and balls is the correct way of spelling what you tried to. Thanks for enlightening us on your wonderful expertise. Also no need to capitalize all letters. We do understand that Ford circled the problem.
hahahaha that Crazel is really funny. but i prefer the silverado with the z71 offroad package
i own a 07 limited 4×2. i’ve been really pleased with my tundra so far. my main complaint is with the tailgate. just from me walking on the tailgate while it’s down i’ve managed to totally collapse it down to the internal pictureframe support. i guess the sheet metal is so thin it can’t hold any weight. this started about 4 months after i bought the truckand i told the dealer about it right away. i work on the road a lot so its usually a few months between the time i can get to the dealer. well needless to say i told them about it when i noticed it and it took me about 9 months to get to the dealer with it. at that point of time, still within warranty, i was told there was nothing they could do for me because this was considered regular wear and tear. i even had rhino liner sprayed on 5 days after i got my truck. the dealer told me that i more than likely dropped something heavy on my tailgate and due to the liner they could not see the dent. love my truck hate the dealer and service center. i did have have the vent problem but they took care of that right away. any suggestions with the tailgate issue?
07 tundra crewmax 5.7l…already had the torque conv. replaced…the transmission still has a problem when shifting down and shifting back up…. the stereo volume will freeze..I have to turn the truck off and back on to fix it..when driving on the highway the truck pulls to one side..already had several alingments…and still have the problem..and I notice the other day the bed of the truck is not align with the cab..is way off…..has anyone had these problems…I only have 500 miles left in my warranty…and my local dealership are not to friendly because I did not purchase the truck from them.. but the reason why I did not purchase from them was because I did go to them at first but since I was in my beatup truck and work clothes they didn’t take me seriously..and didn’t think I had the money to purchase a truck…so they blew me off … so I drove 4 hours to the city to purchase my truck and now they give me a hard time every time I take it to them…but is not like they do it for free…toyota pays them everytime they do anywork to my truck..right?
07 with 34k miles. The rotors warped at 14k. I first felt it coming down a mountain and when I took it to the dealer he said he would fix it but wouldn’t warranty it again because I drive down mountains. He was implying that I must be riding the brakes all the time.Well we wen’t round and round but we checked the pads and they still had over 80% left on them so he started coming around. Well they’re going again so I’ll see what happens when I take it in this time. I’ve had other issues, the bounce,engine noise, shredded fan belt, radio, weather stripping, if you put your window down over 40 mph it feels like your eardrums are going to burst. I have the towing mirrors and I think that’s why. But I was mainly wondering if anyone else had the brake problems on the 07. I’ve got a 99 tacoma with 296k and it hasn’t been to the shop once.
Sean I have an 07 Crewmax with 56,000 miles and my brakes have a good 10,000 miles left. Haven’t had an issue with the rotors. Then again I don’t live in the mountains. I live in flat land Florida.
Mickey, I don’t live in the mountains either, I just drove down a mountain and I used the gears mostly and the brakes only when I had to. The first time they wouldn’t replace the rotors, they just turned them. I told him I thought it would come back without replacing them. He said it probably would if I drive it down a mountain again because they shouldn’t really be driven down mountains. I asked him if I was on candid camera because I couldn’t believe what I was hearing. Anyway, we’ll see what happens.
I had posted about Toyota posting a loss last year and was told here that this was an aberration. But the trend continues. So is everyone here still in denial that the economy is hurting Toyota too?
http://www.marketwatch.com/new.....9D9FE42%7D
Justin – First of all, your comment doesn’t belong on this post. Second of all, your comment a year ago was that “Toyota was in trouble.” That wasn’t true then, and it isn’t true now. Toyota’s loss is steep, but considering the auto market the loss shouldn’t come as a big surprise. Besides, the point here is simple – Toyota losing money doesn’t put them in the same situation as soon-to-be-bankrupt GM and currently bankrupt Chrysler. Ford, which has been losing billions like this for the better part of this decade, proves my point: Despite tremendous loses, Ford is in no danger of collapse. The same goes for Toyota.
I bought the new ’07 Tundra Crewmax Limited TRD in July ’07. Within a few weeks to a month, I could tell something wasn’t right about the ride, braking and handling. The brakes on a test veh. I drove were outstanding. However, my pedal sank almost to the floor when stopped and the ABS on just a minor panic stop, would go berserk, sometimes locking the front wheels. The bed was very bouncy, the ride stiff. I could feel the frame shuddering over minor bumps. Speed bumps were worse. I am used to driving trucks so I dismissed the bumpy ride as ‘normal.’ The leather was wearing out at 29k miles, Driver’s seat being compressed and leather not holding up. Center console door wouldn’t close at 15k miles. At 29k, dealer still hadn’t fixed it. Bizarre booming sound at start up, with leaking air noise for first 30-60 sec. at startup. Gas mileage is flexible but good. Power was not as strong as the test Tundra veh., but way better than any Chevy I had. Handling was marshmallow-like, veh. tipped a bit in corners. Suspension didn’t feel tight. It burned a quart between 3k changes. My Silverado Duramax burned zero between 5k changes, even at 69k miles. Gages were easy to read with the Limited fluorescent lighting option. Stereo was hard to see and reach. Bluetooth sucked and didn’t connect most of the time. WIndows made odd noises going up/down like they were not seated well in their tracks. Cruise control is horrible, downshifting 3 gears and jolting my passengers. Unacceptable!
I traded it in for a 2010 TRD-SR5. Wow, what a difference. I now realize that the ’07’s are a product of a new design that just came out with many problems that Toyota wasn’t able to fix. My new truck is as good as it can be. NO problems with anything. Smooth-smooth ride, less bounce, no shudder. Bluetooth perfect. Stereo hugely improved, intuitive, good sound. Windows quiet, transmission doesn’t hunt for gears, cruise control is fixed! I drove the ’09 Dodge Ram, gorgeous interior, best in class-but- no power! My Tundra blows it away. Tundra suspension is tight and car-like, accelerates like a fast car, shifts imperceptibly and quickly. Tires are quiet and smooth (BF Goodrich). I am so relieved. The Bilsteins really shine here. CLoth interior, no more leather for me. The fabric is on the cheap side (Ram is the best), but it is firm and comfortable. Love that rear window that goes up and down! Truly the best motor and transmission in this class. Funny how Ford gets all the accolades?! I drove the new F-150 and it is just a slob. No power and feels heavy. The Tundra is even better than it was.
Rick sorry to hear all those issues but a change in vehicles done you right. I have an 07 Crewmax Limited. My center console wouldn’t stay close the dealer replaced it in 10 minutes. The whole cover. More than likely the TRD suspension gave you the bounce and probably the marshmellow ride. I have no issues in the ride I have. I use an Hellwig anti-swaybar to help in cornering and keeping the truck stable. As for the stereo I use the controls on the steering wheel to change channels and volume. I also have the JBL system which is pretty dang good. Sorry I don’t care for bluetooth while driving. Phone can wait. As for your cruise control downshifting 3 gears is abit much. Never had issues with cruise control especially in the mountains of WV. Glad to see you’re happy with the 2010. I maybe swapping mine in for a platinum series crewmax. Only problem they don’t use Nautical Blue for platinum series.
I bought my 2007 Tundra 5.7 CrewMax Ltd in September 2007. It now has 11,875 miles on it. I have not had any problems with it until now. I am now hearing a clunking noise coming from under the truck in front of the rear passenger tire. The noise occurs when I enter parking lots that have a samll ramp, when I leave the driveway to get on the street and when I travel over rough road (I can hear it better at low speeds). I have been able to re-create the noise some times by standing on the driver’s side rear bumper and rocking back and forth. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Thanks…
Shock maybe… Tranny mount. Maybe ball joint. I have the same truck but bought mine in July and have 58,000+ miles. I travel alot in mine. That’s why the mileage. If you can recreate it take it to the shop. You’re under the warranty.
Thanks Mikey…it’s headin to the shop.
I am reading all this problems that you guys are facing with your Tundras. I am sorry to hear all these, and I am a little scard in the same time, as I had none with mine. My only issue, if I could call it that, was the gas mileage when the gas went sky rocketing in ’07, but is better now. I would definitly not trade my Tundra for a chevy or a Ford, that’s for sure, I have not lost my mind as of yet. Yes, I have the occasional bed bouncing, but I drove the other two and the tundra smoothness can not be replicated in those other vehicles. It is more luxerious then the Ford and chevi and more spacious, is nice. And more reliable then them. I think I made a good choice by not getting an american made truck, i think I would have change two before I would change the tires on the Tundra.
Alexis it sounds good to me what you have. I don’t have no issues either. I only had 4 items to be fixed and with 58,600 miles on it we are doing quite well.
I have a 2007 4.7 4×4 and love it…a little bed bounce which is expected but I just put 3″ dual exhaust on and don’t hear it anymore. Maybe all Tundras should come with dual 3″ exhaust? Either way it sounds great and annoys the people riding my bouncing bed like a nascar driver!!
Other issues, although most very minor, are the driveline slack when stopping completely and when stepping on the gas, the driveline has too much slack in it causing the vehicle to lurch/jump forward and not take off smoothly. Other issues are with chrome front and rear bumpers and chrome lug nuts rusting after only 1 winter, poor paint quality/too thin of paint and/or clear coat that scratches way too easily, rusted and no paint left areas on double cab tundras behind and below rear access doors in the rear corner side of the truck, too dim of dash/clock area to read it in bright sunlight, too thin of sheetmetal inside middle of tailgate showing dents just by stepping on it and also tailgate ends breaking off at welds and also tailgate latches breaking, serpentine belt on probably over 30% of all 2007 and probably 2008 tundras with over 20K on them showing severe cracks in the ribbed portion of the serpentine belt some with bad tensioners, dash sagging in passenger right front corner, dash rattlings, and poor fitting driver’s door panel with plastic clips falling off. I’ll stop for now, since these are the problems I, along with several other tundra owners, have experienced. Most of these issues are fixed now, but the rusted chrome lug nuts will not be warrantied by my tundra dealer. I am planning on going to another tundra dealer and see if they will honor the ugly rusting chrome lug nuts since they cost about 12 bucks each – ouch. If this other tundra dealer wants a new 2010 tundra sale, I might see what they say if they want a sale from me in the near future.
The rear-end is not what its put out to be. The salesman at the dealership I bought my tundra told me to hold the traction control down for 3-seconds to give the truck all its power. I’m now on my fourth rear-end from toyota they replaced it three times before 15000 miles. So anyways if your looking to do alot of aftermarket performance be careful. My tundra is at 470 horse, and I was gonna put a supercharger on it until all this happened, now I’m just trying to sell it.
what are the issues with the rear end going out? I am thinking of doing some aftermarket stuff to mine but this is making me think twice…
I HAVE AN 07 TUNDRA TRD WITH THE 4.7 AN NOTICE THE INLET PIPES TO THE MUFFLER THE ONE TO THE OUTSIDE IS CRACKED WHERE IT GOES IN TO THE MUFFLER. AND I HAVE CHECK OTHERS AND THEY HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM.BECAUSE I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AN I COULDN’T GET IT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.HAVE ANY BODY ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH THE EXHAUST.
i would go with an aftermarket exhaust kit, I got mine from Gibson and makes a huge difference…I don’t know if I had the cracks but I pinched the exhaust pipe right behind the tire backing up into a snow pile. I think the location of the pipe is poor in a truck. This kit goes right out the back…
I bought an 07 DC, and had it for about 2 years now, 16K miles on it.
Worst issues / features:
Seat belt chime – Toyota NEEDS to provide a fix – freaking annoying.
Center console always popping open (even after dealer replacement)
Dash readouts hard to read, even WORSE when you have the headlights on (they dim in the daytime too – apparently some idiot forgot to tie the dimming to the daylight sensor.)
Had the latch clips in the tailgate fail too (stupid little plastic clips that should have been metal. Made my own out of some sheet metal.)
Mileage a little low, but it is a full sized truck.
Interior plastic is “cheap” and scratches easily
Body panels too thin for a full sized truck. Dents really easily.
Backup camera screen in roof console WAAAAAAYYY too small and at a bad angle (trying to find an aftermarket one I can replace it with.)
Backup lights not bright enough at night.
Granted some of those are nits – overall I am very pleased with my Tundra, and yes I would buy another one.
Oh – and for all the nannys out there who nag about seatbelts – not all of us use our trucks only for driving to the grocery store / down the highway. Sometimes they are used a LOT on private property, and you are getting in and out all the time. Is this, or is this NOT a work truck? Is commercial or farm use forbidden? Nag your kids – and I aint your kid.
Hey, everyone, I think that reading all of the issues and problems/complains with your trucks I can only say that most are common, means this truck has some misshaps that they don’t have quite down, I am sure they have now. Look in the bright side, you are having a japaneze car/truck, be thankfull you are not driving something else. Try reading the reviews on other trucks, Tundra will seem like peanuts. I don’t mean to be rude or disrespectfull to our trucks made here in the states, but Ford is rated in the first 50 worse cars made in the world. that should mean something, don’t you think? I will personally never drive a domestic car, I am too poor to do that. I can not afford a car that breaks down all the time, I need reliability, and I think most of you do as well, that is why you own a Tundra and not a Ford. I am sure that you all know Ford or other american car owners that complain a lot about their cars. Ask around, you’ll find out.
All the luck to you.
Alexis: You may want to check your reviews again, casue Ford/Lincoln/Mercury has the best quality/reliability of any of the domestics across its lineup (not saying much), and is on par with Toyota in these same areas by multiple reputable reviewers. I’ll admit, the Fords of the 80’s/90’s, didn’t stack up to the imports in these two aspects. But the view you are taking on cars from yesteryear do not represent the products of the last 5-10yrs. Evidently the people you speak too also have a very short sighted view, but again are based on procduts from 11+yrs ago. A couple examples based on Consumer Reports, for 2009 the Avalanche was the best truck with the F150 placing 2nd. They (CR) recently reported that the Fusion is better than the Camry. Also, you must not have experienced the problems Toyota has had over the years as well, such as the Tundra & Tacoma frames rusting, Sienna doors opening on their own, engine sludge, Camry 6spd transmissions, Tundra passenger airbags and Tundra lower ball joints for a few. All makes/models have their issues and there are certainly some that are lemons. To come your conclusion based on products from over 10 years ago is very short sighted though. But it took Detroit 20yrs to run away consumers to imports, it may just take 20yrs to open the consumers eyes to the reality of their products of today.
Well after reading most post on here i thought i would let you guys in on my problem with my 08 tundra, first let me say i have 91,000 on my truck and it has a 4.0 v6 with the 5 speed tranny last of its kind. Last week when i was changing the oil i notice a little trans fliud on the rear end of the tranny right where the yoke enters the trans, so i figure it was the seal and i would get it change for about a $150 and all will be well. Boy was i wrong!!!! When i took it to the dealer which is toyota biggest dealership in the US i found out there is a problem with the yoke and drive shaft on some trucks and it will cost about $1800 to fix because it was out of warranty . After telling them about how many toyotas i have owned and never had a problem like this and finding out other people had this problem (Plus whinning like a little bitch )they knock the price down to $1200 + tax and will give me a year/ unlimited miles on the job. The truck is fixed and stills runs great even with the little engine , top out at 112mph . Keep and eye out for the leaking rear seal on yours before you get to 60,000 miles and you wouldn’t have to fork out the cash. Hope this help some of you guys if you see a leak.
The 2007 Tundra has been nice, but I cannot stand the in dash electrical issues. Replacement radios, solenoids, relays, etc. have not solved the problem. Out of warranty, out of luck. Thanks, Toyota. By the way, my tailgate is garbage and so were the Michelins that came with it. Never had a tire last 29,000 miles…
DO NOT BUY THIS TRUCK IN GEORGIA OR SOUTH CAROLINA…THE DEALERS WILL NOT WARRANTY EXTENSIIVE INTERIOR ELECTRICAL ISSUES!!!
Alexis: Regarding your Toyota having much superior quality to Ford. How bout a quick read?
http://freep.com/article/20090.....seek-No.-1
FRONT-END ALLIGNMENT PROBLEM: 2007 TUNDRA TRD PULLING TO THE RIGHT EVEN AFTER BEING ALLIGNED ??? ALL TIRES MOVED AROUND IN VARIOUS COMBINATIONS BUT STILL PULLS TO THE RIGHT………..HAS ANYONE HAD THE SAME ISSUE ? IT HAS BEEN SUGGESTED THAT IT COULD BE A TIRE PROBLEM ? [ ORIGINAL TIRES, 20,000 MILES, STILL GOOD TREAD LEFT ]
I would say the tires would be the problem. Haven’t had any pull on my crewmax. I did have to get a tire rebalance because of the stick on weights fell off.
-10 things I hate about my two Tundras-
ugh where do i start? its a good lil 4.7 i’ve raced all kinds of f 150s rangers and explorers and beat every one by a long shot. The truck is fast, very alert and it handles like a sports car. but 1. bridgestone duelers are not truck tires, 2. the traction control system is bogus (youll get farther with it off), 3. thanks to the duelers and snow i needed a pull, but i couldnt get a chain through the tow hooks in front because they are so small i cant even get my big toe through em! 4. the truck is way too quiet when idleing we forget its runnin, go to start it and stall it out, 5. the computerized 4 wheel drive system is horrible, 6. cant see the radio if the suns out, 7. very weak suspension, 8. the brakes are sleepy… in other words if you have to slam on the brakes, the pedal goes to the floor and it takes a few seconds for them to kick in, 9. metallic blue, beautiful color, the ladies and older folks like it but its a cop magnet even when your drivin like an ol lady, 10. 2 wheel drive means 2 wheels are supposed to grab right? nope… just the right rear has any power runnin to it, these trucks need true posi traction rear ends. well i guess no one or nothing is perfect so thanks for listening to me bitch about my daily driver
John your number 10 is like that on all trucks unless you get the option and pay extra for a posi. I don’t know about the cop magnet being the blue color. Statistics still show red is the hot one. As far as the brakes you may ask the dealer to check them. I have 66,300 miles on my original brakes. Still have half the pad. I do mostly Interstate driving so Bridgestone Duelers are perfect for mpg’s and hwy driving. You don’t have a hook at the end of your chain? As far as traction control I heard that was an issue with some owners along with Duelers in the snow. You might want to rethink the truck handles like a sport’s car when you say the suspension is weak. Those are opposites side of the spectrum. The suspension is great on the hwy which is what I use mine for. I haven’t but once took mine offroad. To hard to clean after that. I don’t understand #4. I heard the same about any computerized 4 wheel drive. Most people state they like the locking hubs. I don’t have nor will I ever have a 4×4. I don’t have a need for it.
Forgot to mention I have an 07 Crewmax Limited Nautical Blue.
I have an 07 Tundra with the 5.7. I get a high pitched noise (sounds like a vacume leak) from the front of the motor every time i start it. It goes away after the rpm’s kick back down. It also makes the noise most times i give it a little gas, and when trying to maintain highway speed. I’ve taken it to two dealerships and the first one said they couldn’t find it, and there was nothing they would do since it didn’t show up as a computer diagnostic code. The second dealer ( I went for a ride with a tech and had to point it out to him) basically came to the same conclusion. That is that they don’t know what it is, and since it doesn’t seem to be effecting the performance of the motor they are unwilling to do anything about it. The noise is so loud you have to crank up the stereo to try and drown it out, and even that doesn’t work sometimes. Any suggestions?
Rob – Could be a vacumn leak as a result of a loose intake fitting, improperly closed air box, etc. Could also be a high frequency whine from the speakers/stereo system. Could also be something normal that’s just more pronounced in your Tundra than it is in others. It’s difficult to diagnose these problems because it’s hard to know where to start looking…which is why the techs aren’t being too helpful. If you can live with it, it’s likely nothing to be worried about. If not, it’s time to go back to the dealership and ask for the sound to be taken care of because it’s annoying (falls under the squeaks and rattles portion of your warranty coverage).
When coming to a stop with the transmission in drive, the drive shaft feel like it is “unloading”. I reported to the dealer who said he has had other reports of the same thing. He says he has sent the report on to Toyota and will let me know when he knows. Has anyone experienced this problem?
Purchased my 07 Crewmax Limited 4×4 in Oct of 07. 14K miles so far without a glitch whatsoever. The truck pulls my #4500 lb boat and still has power to pass other trucks while doing so. Mileage while towing at 70mph is only about 12, but it is much better than my Landcruiser @9mpg. Seriously considering a supercharger, just for fun. Regret the dual exhaust, the low drone sound is annoying on the long hauls. Wanted to buy a Duramax instead, wife insisted on a Toyota for reliability issues. Hate to say it, but she was right, truck has been absolutely solid. We have owned 2 Tundras, Tacoma, Highlander, 4Runner, Supra, and still have a Landcruiser. No issues, very happy.
I got my 07 crewmax the first month they came out in Scottsdale and I have gone cross country in it 3 times and all 3 times I have been pulling a trailer this last time it was a 18 foot with a scion xb inside it and I have had no problems with this truck. I have had it off road and went across creeks in it with no problems the only time I got it stuck it was in the mud to the doors and it took 3 trucks to pull it out so this truck has been the best one I have had so far oh and I have 40000 miles on it.
Cody great story…. I have an 07 Crewmax Limited in Nautical Blue and I took it offroad one time. Never again. I hate cleaning all that mud off. I had mud all over the engine and the inside of the hood.
07 trunda at 36,000 miles SVC light 4 wheel low light and check engine light all come on. Vechile was taken to local Toyota shop. Service rep quoted when these three lights come on at the same time tranismission needs replaced. Toyota replaced transmission at no cost. Today five hundred miles into new transmission all three lights come on again. Toyota is back to the shop for repair. Maybe this time I get more that five hundred miles and I have a lot of faith that the repairs will be made or I will visit the Chevrolet dearler across the street.
I drive a 07′ Tundra my company bought new in Sept. of 07. Mechanically sound so far. But sure glad I did’nt buy it. Clips inside tailgate a constant problem, finally took apart myself, drilled the rod and put kotter pin in it. Why could’nt Toyota do that. Seats are very uncomfortable, can’t get the wheels balanced properly, and at only two years old now, the radio has quit. No Toyota pickups for me.
I must be the only person who got a good truck – 07 crew cab 4×4 5.7 – My truck gets 23 mpg hwy and 16mpg pulling my big trailer. It has 84,000 mile and drives like new. Yes, there is some bed bounce but I deal with it. I have not had ANY problems with motor or trans. I do all the maintainence myself because I dont trust the dealerships or repair shops. I have owned 4 Toyotas in the past and all were built in Japan so I was expecting problems with this truck because it was built in USA. Not the case.
Good to hear Grid. I get the same mpg’s if I do 55mph on the interstate to and from work.
Grid,
What gives? You don’t trust your own countrymen to build you a solid truck? So I guess all those old domestic trucks still on the road were rebuilt by the Japanese? I don’t think so. The best country in the world builds the best trucks in the world…period.
I have had my Tundra for 2 yrs and it only has 20,000 miles yet the front tires are worn out on the outside edges. Savannah Toyota is telling me that there is not a problem with the truck and that this is due to hard cornering. I have 3 year old and I do don’t drive “hard”. The tires have been rotated every 5k(i missed 1 rotation) needless to say this will be my last experience with savannah toyota.
Chris try another dealership and find out about the front end alignment. I got my first alignment at 15,000 miles and every 15,000 after. I got over 61,000 miles on my first set of Duelers. I currently have 68,500 miles on my 07 Crewmax Limited.
chris – Definitely sounds like an alignment problem (but tire inflation could be part of the issue). Did you get the tires rotated once already? If it was an alignment problem, all the tires would have uneven wear.
i have a 2007 tundra 4 door limited the same vibration as the rest of
you the dealer found the rear wheel bearing sieze up to the point of wearing
throught the axel shaft, i also have transmission slipping the dealer says isn’t
happening we will see when the tranny fails
I have a 2009 double cab 8′ bed 5.7 liter engine and I’m not happy with truck the dealer or Toyota . I’m regretting buying it , I contacted toyota about the bed bounce they emailed me back saying put weight in the back or buy better shocks, the paint scratches very easy, the fuel milage sucks. The dealer has been horrible to deal with my wife has a camry and wants a new one I told her no more Toyotas in our life. I’ve had a lot better treatment at the ford and chevy dealerships
I have a 2007 tundra with eather a driveshalf or transmission problem when stop at a light or intersection the truck tends to go forward as if it just got hit in the back. After going to the dealer three(3) times all they did was change the driveshalf, saying it’s not a problem.Is there any one else having this problem?
I have a 2007 Crewmax and I assumed buying Toyota was a good investment. My 5.7l has gone through 3 radios, the cigarette lighter has never worked and now with 56000 miles on it I have the check engine, TSC and slip lights on. It wont go into over drive and it took 2 miles to get it up to 50MPH. Thank god I know someone who know about cars. The problem is the crewmax cab is so long that is has a tenedancy to rub the hoses. SO all i have is a dirty throttle and a hose leak. I highly advice a toyota tundra driver to invest 40 dollars in a code reader. Plug it in reset the codes and the truck drives fine. Run a smoke machine through the lines and fix the leak. It will save you thousands! I was told I needed a new transmision. Hum sounds like a service departments cash hog trick to me. I also constantly have people flash me because they think I have my high beams on. I have to say I miss my Hemi.
Dierdre first thing you apparently have a stock “Delco” radio. Delco is made by GM. Toyota knows they have an issue with the stock radio’s so they are replacing them when any problems occurs. For your cigarette lighter to not have worked since you bought the truck and you have 56,000 on it? I can only blame you for not taking care of that issue right away. It probably is a simple fix by either replacing the lighter part or making sure it is wired up and checking the fuse. Simple 10 minute fix. At 56,000 have you had your tranny system check? You’re in that range where they flush out the fluid and put new fluid in it as part of your maintenance program. It’s recommended at 60,000 miles. The cost along with an oil change was $165. I have an 07 Crewmax Limited with over 71,500 miles on mine. I have the JBL system and haven’t had an issue with the radio but I also have XM which I listen to all the time anyway. Your mechanic telling you because the Crewmax cab is so long that the hoses rub is one hell of a story line if I ever heard one. Let me explain the wheel base of the DC cab and a regular bed is 145.7. Now the wheel base of the CM cab is 145.7. The same distance. Now the length of a DC regular bed is 228.7 and the CM is 228.7. Now you’re getting my drift. Now the CM cab is 12 inches longer than the DC but the bed of the DC is 12 inches longer. Your engine compartment and tranny compartment is the same for both also. The wheel base dictates what is put in both vehicles. Now when a DC cab puts the long bed it’s wheel base is 164.6. At that the compartments are still the same so the hoses makes no difference in the length of the cab. Only the driveshaft is different in the longbed. Now if you are in good with your dealer like myself they would reset the codes for you w/o a charge. I do all maintenance at my dealer and it has paid me back twice fold already when I had issues once with a check engine light. They replaced my gas cap and didn’t charge for diagnostics on the truck. Also I painted my rotors but left a little tape on 2 studs which broke on me. One of those studs had a lock nut on it which the dealer replaced my lock set for free and charged it under warranty. Why they did this? Simply put by the service adviser “Toyota wanted to keep it’s loyal customers who does all maintenance at the dealership so they don’t charge for the diagnostics and resetting them. Not to mention all maintenance records of everything I’ve done is there so they know exactly what I have done with the truck and the 07 Prius we have. Yes it costs a little more but it pays in the end. Also be pro-active by going on TundraTalk.com and get the pdf file on setting your headlights. This is also done free at the dealers within your warranty at no cost. Do you have fog lights? If you do then you shouldn’t have an issue with your lights if you have both low beams and fogs on. I drive like that all the time and I have HID’s which are alot brighter and bluer than your originals. Waiting till you have 56,000 miles to complain about the minor stuff is at your extended warranty range. Take it in get what needs to be fixed and enjoy your ride. Be pro-active in getting these fixed. If the first dealership doesn’t suit you go to another one. Get satisfaction where you go.
Own a 2007 Tundra DC with 37000 miles. Only issue was a cracked windshield, which was replaced under warranty because it was diagnosed as a stress crack. Rides better when it is loaded down. Lock the cruise at 67 and average about 23 mpg.Never had any issue reading the gauges even my little boy reads them from the back seat. Have friends with Ford,Dodge,Chevy and Nissan, and they don’t even come close in ride and quality.
I just got knocked out of the blog, so I hope this is not a repeat. I own a 2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7 and I have had a problem with the engine light coming on and the engine loses power for over a year now. The only way to make it stop is to reset the engine by disconnecting the battery and letting it set for awhile and then reconnect it. I received a diagnosis code of P2443 from a dealership and had the AIR Diverter Valve replaced since they said it takes on moisture and rusts out, but I am still having the same problem. Does anyone have any other ideas?
i have a 2007 tundra dc 4×4 limited 5.7L. On the bouncing issue i think its a common issue for the tundra because I have friends with ford, chevy and dodge and they have also common bed bouncing issue. I think if bouncing is a big deal for you might as well get a car. Truck with heavy duty leaf springs is design for carrying heavy loads not for comfort. You should be thankful because atleast you know your tundra has a heavy duty leaf spring. As of this moment I have very minor problem with my tundra with 75000 miles on it such as front brakes due for service, cigarette lighter inop, cracked on serpentine belt. I always bring my tundra to the dealership for service all they do is to change my engine oil and filter, air filter. One time I ask the service manager if they can do a transmission service on my truck, they said just wait til i hit 100,000 miles on it. Im getting 16 mpg combined and 426 miles on a full tank. Every month I tow may race car to the track and one time i towed a full size chevy suv from las vegas to california. Compared to my service truck @ work which is a 2007 ford f350 powerstroke in terms of towing. Of course, ford was a diesel turbo engine but its not far from my tundra in terms of towing capability. I raced my co workers 2006 dodge hemi(stock) and 2009 silverado 4×4(stock) from stoplight to stoplight and they love my truck because im always a winner. Sometimes I go outdoor using my tundra’s 4×4 and had no problem with it. Im not saying tundra is the best truck but overall performance, quality and reputation is far from others.
mekkanixx: Well yes bed bounce is common in all trucks, but from reviews with an empty bed (no load), the Tundra does tend to have more bounce on concrete expansion joints than the other 1/2 tons on the market currently. And please do not try to make an excuse that people should buy a car if they don’t want bed bounce. There’s a portion here in Denver, which Jason (Admin) may be familiar with, which is on I-25 between DTC and Castle Rock. My F150 does experience a little bed bounce, but nothing extreme. My mother-in-laws neighbor, who owns an ’07 Tundra CreMax TRD, feels like you’re in a carnival ride and you must hold onto your drink to ensure it doesn’t spill all over. So yes there may always be bed bounce, but the severity of the bed bounce is the complaint about the Tundra, not that other 1/2 tons don’t have bed bounce.
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Also, the Tundra compares in no way to a 1-ton truck, no matter make/model, in regards to towing capability. Sure you may feel the 0-60 time in towing a light load is similar, which it just may be. But the fact a 1-ton truck is built to control/handle those loads is a completely different story. Also throw in the legal issues if you were found towing a higher capacity than what the Tundra is rated for. And towing these heavy loads with the Tundra vs. a 1-ton will only decrease the longevity of the Tundra, while the 1-ton will keep trucking on.
In conclusion, The Toyota Tundra isn’t perfect but it is a leap ahead of the rest of the pack.
I own the 08′ tundra Crew Max, and the problem is. My truck in 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive when it spins it makes a grinding sound from the hood? Do you know what that is? or is it a problem, cus it has did it everysince I owend the truck? Also if im going around a sharp curve it also does it. Had no problems other than the bed bounce on the highway. Please try help me out if ya could..thanks!!
I bought a used 2007 5.7 doublecab with 46000miles,loved it except for the engine knock when cold.after warmup still had the bang but considerably less.foot on the brake in drive,still heard the noise.It was very fast,had the K&N air system,non factory dual exhaust.Mileage was 10-15/gal.I have to tow a very large boat,so i cant risk the piston/rod slap noise.I traded it for the 2010 Rock Warrior.hope it is better.Anyone find an answer for the rod noise?I see many other 5.7s have this noise in cold weather.
Chris – That ticking is normal – I’m going to put something together that will explain it, but basically the issue is piston slap. In order to make the engine strong enough to withstand the supercharger, Toyota used a piston alloy that’s fairly expansive.
I understand the lifter noise,ticking from fuel injectors,but the little man inside the engine with a hammer when cold cant be normal.
Chris: Can’t speak to the knock since I don’t own a Tundra. But if you’ve ever owned/driven a Silverado V8, they are notorious for piston slap, which it sounds like you are experiencing. Is it normal? I’d say so, since it occurs on many generations of Silverados over the years. Is it good or bad? Can’t say since I never owned one. Just my personal opinion, it can’t be good over the long haul. Do a google search and you’ll find plenty of results from Silverado owners. Here are a couple quick reads on the Chevy piston slap.
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http://www.consumeraffairs.com.....erado.html
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http://www.lemonlaw.com/gm-engine-problem.html
Justin – Good to know. I hadn’t heard about it. Piston slap is bad when cylinders and/or pistons get scuffed. However, this is easily avoidable by using the right alloy for the piston. Toyota says that their engines are just fine despite the slap, and I would assume GM says the same. I’m going to produce something that breaks the whole thing down sometime soon.
I have been on this forum for over 2 years. I have read most of the issues. I believe this is the most important answer we need at this point.
Situation:
2007 Tundra crewmax TRD 4X4
Regularly changed oil every 5k with full synthetic oil at the dealer. Noisy engine when cold…and some noise when warm as well..like many oter tundra 5.7 liter engines.
purchased 100k warranty when new. I have currently 53k. The engine noise is becoming more pronounced as it accumulates mileage. Do we know how long this goes on before finally breaking apart? I believe by the time the warranty is up this engine is going to be so loud that it will be difficult to sell. The trade-in value is ridiculous as the dealer themselves claimed was due to the engine noise.I believe nobody will buy a nice toyota with a noisy engine…. What is the solution? Does toyota offer extended “free” warranty on these engines???? how can a truck this expensive keep its value with such an issue…
A ticking bomb that can go off at any time??? Thank you
Anonymous: As stated in my last post, the Silverado’s/Sierra’s had and to my knowledge, still have this issue. It also seems to get louder as time goes on, per owner complaints. Sounds like the 5.7L is experiencing a very similar issue. Hopefully Toyota is on top of this and is researching a cure for existing models, or at least a fix on upcoming models. As per the GM issues, they were unable to do anything about the noise on older models, but made design changes on newer models that reduced the noise and amount of contact the pistons were making. Of course that was no help to the owners that purchased models prior to the design change. In one case GM bought back a truck for $20K (loan balance), as well as another $20K to the consumer and paid his legal fees. Of course that was after the owner hiring a lawyer and fighting for his rights.
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Tundra owners may have to do the same, but we are unsure how Toyota would/will react. Toyota has had a tough go the last year or so with the Tacoma and Tundra rust issues, floormats/pedal and the recent braking issues. This would be another black eye for Toyota if they issued any type of recall or service adjustment. And all that after the Toyota president stated the Tundra wasn’t up to typical Toyota quality standards. The costs have to be getting up there for Toyota and the public perception, even in the media seems to be changing. Neither are good signs for the near future of Toyota.
Justin and Anonymous I guess it is on certain engines also. Most don’t have the noise like myself. I have an 07 Crewmax Limited with over 75,000 miles on it. As Jason stated earlier about the piston slap that it’s suppose to be normal but I’m not sure about that. My engine is pretty quiet so I can’t imagine the noise. I had an 06 Silverado and didn’t have the noise either. I’m not sure if the colder weather can cause this or not. I was fortunate to get a lifetime warranty on the truck when I bought it. So if that was to happen it’s covered by the dealership. I also used the dealership to do all maintenace so they can’t say I did something wrong. Justin using regular oil vice synthetic would help eliminate the noise? I had my truck fixed 4x which 3 of the times I caused it myself so they fixed it under warranty. I’m still on my original brake pads both front and back. Have just less than half the pad left. I do alot of highway driving hence the longevity of the pads. Also my original tires “Duelers” lasted 63,000 miles. I use both the carpet mats and the weather mats on top and never had them come off the hooks except when I take them off. I don’t believe in that mat recall at all.
Mickey Said in May 7th, 2009 @6:18 pm
Question there anonymous. Do you have a life? To go back a read everyone’s articles just to find something on them it really pushing stupidity to the max. Get this Anonymous I’m still on my original brakes and have over 75,000 miles on them. Yes you can measure them but I don’t have the right tool to do that. Also I’m not about to take them off and see anything when there’s no reason to. Are you jealous in the mileage of the pads or how deep are you going to go to find something on someone?
I believe i have found the remedy for the noisy toyota engines in cold weather,i found an engine heater at J.C. Whitny,less than 100$$,wil have it within a few days,and stick it to my oil pan and plug er in.I am on my 4th new Toyota truck,if this one bangs like the others,i am goin back to the Big three for my next truck.My 1st was a 2002 tacoma 4.7 4cyl..Banged like abitch at20000 miles,traded it for a 2004 tacoma 2.7,this one waited for 30,000 miles than gave me a big cold piston slap,i kept this for 80000 miles.than i went for the allmighty used Tundra,had it for one month.couldnt be on the boat ramp with the rods beating the block so i traded it for te 2010 Rock Warioir.hope my heating pad works.By the way, i used Mobile 1 synthetic with the right visc.on all my trucks,at intervals of 5000 miles.Any comments are apreciated.
Chris – That will definitely help. A warm block means that all the parts are going to fit more snugly (more even expansion), so slap will be reduced.
Mickey: couple items on your posts:
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1) Sure in stock form without an S/C, the Ford 4.6 & 5.4L don’t have the same hp/lb-ft of the Tundra 5.7L, but these motors don’t have the issue of piston slap that has been describe. I’ve already admitted I’ve seen/heard and read about many GM’s with this issue. Can’t speak to the Dodge motors. So to try and simply say it’s all in the style of piston used, is partly an excuse. Not saying the piston type used is or isn’t the issue, just that not all motors using this type of piston exhibit the piston slap problems.
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2) Tundra isn’t perfect but leads the pack? Of course you know I’ll disagree with this statement. Each truck has it’s on advantages/disadvantages. To each their own.
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3) You state the Ford V8’s & V10s from 97-99 had this issue, are you referring to the piston slap? From my knowledge, this was much less frequent than what has been reported by Tundra & GM owners. Of course it’s been many years, so my memory may be fuzzy. Ford did offer a buy back program, but the problem impacted between 1 in 500 to 1 in 2000 motors. This only impacted motors from the Windsor Canada facility. Here’s some info from a site I frequent. Either way, Ford stepped up to the plate and replaced motors. Lets see how Toyota proceeds.
http://f150online.com/forums/v.....mmary.html
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4) You seem to take offense from any possible Tundra owner who has a difference experience than you. So you have 1/2 your brake pads left, alright good news. Others that frequent other Tundra forums haven’t had the same luck as you, having warped rotors or premature pad replacement. Does that mean you’re right and they’re wrong? No, simply means they may drive differently than you, or that they got a batch of bad rotors/pads. You have your experience, they have theirs. Why question them about it then? Like you said earlier, the Tundra isn’t perfect.
PS the GM 5.3 and 6.0 make an incredible racket on cold starts….this is nothing more than a sound ALL close torrerance motors will make!!!!!!! BTW I just turned 30K on my 07 with a 5.7 and the “cold start” noise is becoming less noticable.
Truck101 – Good call – you are correct.
Justin is all 4 sections of your comments towards me? I never talked about Ford’s V8 or V10. That was anonymous that made a statement about that. As leader of the pack was from anonymous also. Also Justin jumping the gun and telling me I take offense on what anonymous wrote I can’t help you other than the brake pads that he had to write about. If anyone is taking offense maybe you need to look at oneself there. Apparently Justin you haven’t been reading here lately on all threads dealing with the name anonymous. Then you would know. Who’s to know who’s anonymous?
Stop whining Mickey. All I was doing was questioning what you said. Apparently I have had some good things to say. But then again I don’t venture off subject and ramble on about your brakes and tires. How is that pertain to piston slap?? I have original brakes and 52k, tires lasted 32k with rotating every 5k and alignment was not out. I have my transmission fluid changed every 30k, fuel filter every 15k. See what I was saying?? How does that pertain to piston slap?
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The dip stick oil heater is not going to improve it! It will not reach operating temp and is designed for freezing temps. The only way to fix it is a rebuild.
Anonymous – You’re right that it won’t fix the problem, but a block heater will reduce the amount of “ticking” that people hear. Even though it doesn’t warm the engine to operating temperature, the amount of time it takes to reach operating temp is greatly reduced. As a corollary – most people don’t complain about this issue during the summer. Granted, heat doesn’t dissipate as well at that time of year, but the difference isn’t a dramatic with a heated block.
Anonymous please read the top where the thread starts. It states 2007 known Tundra problems. Now that includes what was mention unless you can’t read. Justin linked what you wrote as my posts. Again read. You’re the one who put my statement of brakes with the piston slap. Again read. Now who’s digging again. You want that cheese now?
Mickey Said in January 5th, 2010 @2:22 pm
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Justin and Anonymous I guess it is on certain engines also. Most don
I broke the latch on my middle console, and I can hear it rattle around on the inside. Is there a way to fix it, and if so, how do I get inside the console without breaking any parts?
Richard I brought my truck in when the middle console wouldn’t stay shut and they replace the whole lid in less than 10 minutes under warranty.
In case anonymous if you didn’t catch it the first time here it is again. The thread is named All known Tundra problems. Do you need this in bold letters? Now to show you where the known problem is since you read what you want here you go. By the way I wrote this to Luis.
Luis they have 10 TSB
Tundra Brake Disc Warpage
My brake discs started warping around 25k miles, tried to live with it until it got pretty bad.
Took it in at 30k miles had them shave it and now with about 40k miles it has the same problem. Eventually some metals and alloy mixes do not withstand temperatures and pressures as well as others. Am taking it in next week and most probably going to replace the discs with new ones…
Will keep you posted.
Anonymous I had that issue on the 06 Silverado with the vibration when you apply the brakes. The whole back end of the truck would vibrate. Great chevy thinking you have over 7,500 miles on the truck so the pads and rotors are not under warranty. Pay $100 for just a clean and inspect. Go back 3 days later pay $200 for turning all 4 rotors. Can’t get back the original $100 for a job not completed. After one week the vibration was back so I just gave up and took the $7,000 loss and got rid of the truck. You know the rest of the story with that truck. I loved what Chevy had in the truck but I won’t be treated that way again by no manufacturer. So I do feel for you on the brakes.
I bought a 2007 Tundra SR5 CrewMax 4 x 4 back in October of 08. I had it for three months, lights started flashing on dash (4HI, Check Engine, Anitslip, etc). Took to dealership, they kept it for a month and said they replace the wiring harnace. 4 – 5 months later was down in texas working and truck died on me driving down the road, same lights flashing as before, they had the truck for 3 weeks, told me they pulled a fly out of my air intake sensor, supposedly problem fixed. In September, drucks dies and then starts back, won’t idle very well, same lights flashing as before take to a dealer in oklahoma, they replace the air intake sensor, they say its fixed. Last week i go to start my truck and it fires right up, then dies. ABS light comes on, check engine, 4HI. Try to start it again and it won’t fire, turns over, but no fire. come back the next day and jump it and fires right up. NO lights on at this point. I drive the truck straight to the oklahoma dealer again and they have it for a few days, say i have a transponder out and and my ABS Actuator is out 4500 dollar fix, my warranty is out because i just have over 100,000 miles, the truck is barely two years old and the last two times it has been in the shop it has come out of my pocket. I don’t think the truck was ever fixed, from the first time it went in.
This was my second tundra, I love the truck but I don’t see me buying another one
Looking for a blown fuse for DVD system in 2007 Toyota Tundra. Didn’t change any fuses. Only pulled a few out and put back in. Now all dash warning ligths are flashing. HOw do I reset them? Do I really need to take it in for service?
Cant find fuse that is actually blown… from plugging in faulty cell phone charger…bla
Tyson – Strange happenings man – tough to understand why all of these things would happen. Don’t blame you for being disappointed.
GSmit – If it really is just a fuse, the repair will be cheap…so I would take it in. If it’s not just a fuse, then you’d need to take it in anyways, right?
I own a 2007 Tundra. Can’t tell you how many people ask me, “How do you like your Tundra?” I will say, I love it. I have 60+K miles on my truck and knock on wood, no issues. However, I did have the stereo issue twice. Twice the radio was replaced under warranty. The truck is awesome, it handles like a car, very smooth and quiet.
Dan more than likely you had a stock radio. Delco made Toyota’s stock radio. Delco is part of GM. I guess that’s why there is so much going wrong with them.
Ive got a 2007 Tundra limited 5.7 when i shift from 4hi to 2wd I can hear a little clunk is that normal? Its my first toyota I had a 1998 gmc z71 seemed like Gm and chev want to sell you a new one for alot less than an import and then nail you on the repairs is that how they are trying to make more profits. im not sure. Remember the dealers make alot on service when the new sales are slow they have to keep the lights on if nothing broke alot of jobs would be gone as long as the dealer stands behind there product thats all i want as a consumer. Just thought i would try a Toyota hopefully it is a good experience.
Thank you all for your inputs keep up the good work
Ryan
Ryan: Every non-permanent 4WD vehicle, such as your Tundra, will exibit a slight knock going into or out of 4WD. Sometimes it is more pronounced than others. It’s basically the front driveshaft & transfer case engaging and catching up to speed or disengaging and slowing down from operating speed. Don’t own a Tundra, but I’m sure it’s explained in your owners manual under the 4WD section. I know this is mentioned in my F150 manual.
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It is very common, no matter make/model of 4WD. Now if when engaged/disengaged, you get a constant grind or the knock continues for an excessive amount of time, then you should be concerned. Hope this helps.
I have had many issues with my 2007 Toytoa Tundra. 1st is that the windows freeze and won’t open in the winter. 2nd is if you get it stuck in 2 wheel drive and go to use 4 wheel drive, forget it. Toyota said it must move so many centimeters before 4 wheel drive will kick in. 3rd one of my wires got pinched off to the hitch wires and put my truck into a computer crazy, all the 4 wheel drive, 2 wheel drive, reverse, drive, slipping light all started flashing. 4th there is a “recall” on a fuse they said. 5th its happened twice this year, my driveway is a alittle steep down hill, i stop halfway through it put it in park take my foot off the break and it keeps moving, put the e break on and it keeps moving, they only thing that stops it, is that i put my foot on break and get it stopped on a level surface. I love it other wise, its very comfortable, we drove it from Pa to Out West Wyoming and back with 4 people in it!
Megan on your 5th point how far you say the truck travels after you put it in park on your incline driveway? If it isn’t much try using the parking brake to hold it. On your 4th issue there is only 4 recalls and 13 TSB’s on the 2007 Tundra and none of them mention anything about a fuse. Go to odi.nhtsa.dot.gov and you can see for yourself all TSB’s and Recalls. ODI is Office of Defects Investigations, and NHTSA is National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. For the 3rd issue apparently now you have a ground (short) in your wiring causing that issue. @nd issue I can’t help you I don’t have a 4×4 Tundra and never had a 4×4 before. Yes It has happen to mine also but when I turn on the heater defroster and in time it will pull lose and work for you. This does happen to all vehicles when the windows freeze along with the locks on the doors. Sorry I keep my Crewmax in the garage and it doesn’t go lower than 40 degrees in the garage.
not heard any comments on threads about air control sensors, i have 07 tundra with 58K miles truck shut down to 20 mph, dealer states it will take $5k to replace the part on a truck that was barely 2 years old, anyone else experiencing this? car is sitting in driveway for past 6 months still fighting with toyota as well as paying financing for truck to sit in the driveway as an ornament
I have a 2006 Toyota Tundra that when driving in cruise and approaching a slight incline the engine RPM’s go up to 5300. The transmission is constantly searching gears and finally ends up in what seems like 1st gear. The engine redlines at 5700 RPM’s. I only use the cruise control on flat road and it still seems to go out of control. At this point I cancell the cruise.
Recently I was out 4 wheeling with my Neiece and her husband. They had a Polaris Ranger. My wife and daughter were with me in the Tundra. The polaris came to a stop and both occupants started to get out of the vehicle, when all of a sudden the Tundra leaped and collided with the Polaris. I had my foot on the brake and the transmission was in drive. Basically stopping behind another vehicle as in normal traffic. I finally shoved the gearshift up to park and shut the ignition off. Had the vehicle not dtopped I would have shoved them into a 12 foot deep wash, and we would have ended up there as well. In an earlier post someone had said that they had a Tacoma and had bought a 2010 TRD SR5 Tundra, and said “they finally fixed the cruise control / transmission problem”. What was that issue? And what was the resolve?
As far as I am concerned I have the condition known as “Sudden Unintended Acceleration”. I say this because it did the surging from a stand still and basically “surged” when in cruise. This is what is going on at present with all the recalls. There is the Floor Mat, Pedal length, Floor Pan not correct for the vehicle, brake over ride, and last but not least the company that makes the pedals to Toyota Specifications is now at fault. I have had it to the dealership, they notified TMS and had a factory rep look at it. I am not sure of his findings because, those are the rules. I’m sure that he drove the truck, and I’m sure he put the Propriaty computor connected to the on-board computor. Toyota has been ordered by NHTSA to have it registered for use by 2012. I recieved a letter from Toyota’s claims and legal dept. They say “everything is normal”.
Well, since the collision, which my insurance company has me down as “not at fault” so there is only one other party, so they must be quilty and should bear the responcibility. Which to this date they have not! The preliminary estimate for the body work was just under $2000.00
My situation with the cruise control has changed. What happened that caused it to work differently? The body work has not been done as of this date. Toyota would be smart to use my truck as a test vehicle. I have had many other things happen with the truck that can’t be explained by Toyota. But there are people out there that can. [ Dr. Antony Anderson] [Sean Kane, Safety Research & Strategies Inc.] Possibly yourself. We will not drive the vehicle because we feel that it is a time bomb, waiting to go off. Toyota needs to take responcibility and make us 100% whole. Take the truck back under whatever terminology they want to use.
Thanks,
Gerard G. Kneipp
I have the same problem with a belt tensioer. 2007, 45000 miles and it’s squealing like mad. The dealer said it’s not covered under warranty. This truck is going downhill fast. It reminds me of the 1080’s Chevy trucks. Great the day you buy it but look out!
Dan also check your serpetine belt for cracks. When the tensioner starts squeeling it puts stress on the belt and can cause damage to the belt. Mine was replaced when I had a deer strike at about 40,000 miles.
Thanks Mickey, Will do. I took the tensioner off today and cleaned it up with some Liquid Wrench. That seemed to do the trick. I ordered a new one and will put it on next week.
Quite welcome. No one thinks about the belt but the tensioner when it makes noise. The only reason I stated it was when I hit the deer and pushed the radiator into the belt and tensioner caused the belt just to slide over the tensioner while the tensioner was froze. I kept the old belt just in case the one I got ever breaks on the road. This way I can make it to the auto parts place.
FYI,i just saw a small clip on T.V.where a guy was explaining his experience with the unwanted accelleration of his 2007 doublecab Tundra.it was not a case of the floormat interference.the gas pedal has a spot where it will stik,the man said he had both feet on the brake put it in nuetral and was able to pull over.I think the cableless system has a sensor instead of a cable,the sensor comunicates to the small motor at the intake.i am not sure were the problem is,is it in the pedal area or is it a comunication problem at the ellectric motor that is at the engine.Hope i dont need to warp my rotors and redline my new engine before the problems fixed.i own a 2010 Rock warrior double cab,no problems as of yet,except for the cold start piston slap.
Chris you have a rev limiter to protect your engine.
What’s the scoop with gas pedal acceleration issue with Tundra’s. I love Toyota, but it’s pissing me off that they aren’t saying anything about when to replace whatever the issue is. Is it ALL 2007 – 2010 Tundra’s? Just certain VIN numbers? What is the expected ETA to resolve the recall?
Certain VIN numbers……5TB
Dan here it is:
Below is a list of new and used vehicles that are affected by the voluntary recall:
Avalon VINs beginning with
Thanks Mickey. My truck will be recalled then. Great.
I had my Tundra for 2.5 years ,and have about 26000 miles on it ….Truck felt strong untill about 12000 miles ,after that i started hearing Diesel Like Noise from under the hood .i set up apointment with dealer ,and they check my truck and sad that i m putting bad gas ….:/ how am i gonna now if its bad or not if i get it from a pump ??? i had to drive for 2 mo,on better octane ,not regular ,to check ., but problem till was there .i read online that people had problems with camshaft and i think my engine gonna brake one day ., noise still there ,toyota took my truck appart and cleaned my fuel system for 90 $ ,but it didt help …..i have little more on my truck till warranty gone so ill drive it till than …..bad instrument panel also …cant see anything ,- Bad idea with those circles …..Engine is to fine for Regular gas ….Soft Suspension .,bed bounce ,and my rims getting corrosion on them ,so thay gonna look like crap in like 6 mo …..wach out for your customer toyota !!!!!
HELP… I have an ’07 Tundra with an electrical problem that is getting worse. While the truck was still under warrenty I had one of the power door locks go bad. Also the clock in the dash started to slow down and loose a few minutes each day. These certainly do not sound related. The dealer said that it was a bad lock and they replaced the clock. Good enough. Right around the time that my factory warranty expired I started have door lock problems again. this time it was random as far as which door was going to work or not work. Now only the rear DS door lock works. Add to this that the AC blower started working only when it wants to…and the clock is slowing down again. Of course my dealer says it truck is out of warranty so I’m on my own. All of these problems appear to me to be a short or bad ground or bad control unit (I do know that it is NOT the Body ECU because I changed it out with an identical Tundra. I still had the same problem and the other Tundra worked fine.).
Anyone else have electrical issues like this? I am hoping that since Toyota is in the image repair mode that they may be willing to help, but I’m not holding my breath.
Scott – I haven’t heard anything about actuators on Tundras. The fact the blower isn’t always working is odd (I assume you say that you turn it on and nothing happens), and I suppose it could be related. As for the clock, I would read too much into it. One question – what do you have plugged in to your cigarette lighter outlets? Cheap battery chargers and/or high current accessories are sometimes the cause of vehicle electrical system bugs…
Tyson,
Had the samw problems you are having. Had the right rear SKID CONTROL SENSOR replacked and that fixed the issue. It did cost me $291 though. They give me the old part (which you can buy on-line for about $100) and there is a broken wire on it. I’m going to solder it and shrink wrap it for a spare.
Dan
I have similar problems with our 2007, 4.7l as Tyson has with his. Engine light on, 4-Hi and antislip flashing. Several times to the dealer. First time they replaced the air injection driver, that was in October-09. After clearing all the codes, I took the truck back. I didn’t get out of the parking lot. Back in the garage again. Second part installed was the switching valve. Now $1600.00 later, I had the truck working OK. After about 2 weeks, things started again. They are telling me that the sensors are picking up moisture in the air system.When this happens, the power from the engine is not being transferred to the drive. The engine will run higher rpm’s when you try to accelerate but the truck will actually lose speed if you go up an incline… They are looking into a solution. I have an appointment for next week to have the air intake re-routed so that it will not be exposed to the same moisture problem. A friend of mine had the same issue and they replaced the air pump assembly as well. Total cost of $3111.00 Cdn.
More issues with mine. The radio has a mind of its own and I’ve had to spend $2215 on the rear end replacing the differential carrier and misc parts for to complete the job.. I now have 150K on mine but most all highway milage. This is not a hard worked truck. Just out of warranty for the rear end and electrical parts not covered….
Here is a trick for squealing belts. Take a finger full of dielectric grease(other grease doesn’t seem to work) and put a good size drop on the ribb side of the belt and on the smooth side. It quits squealing right away.
I am considering buying a new 2010 Tundra 5.7 4×4 double cab long box.
My primary concern is all the bad press regarding the collapsing tailgate issues, since I will be using the truck to occasionally haul my 800lb. Polaris 2-up quad.
My biggest worry, is the tailgate “folding like a cheap suit” when I drive the quad up the ramps that are being supported by the tailgate. Should I worry??
Has anyone else experienced problems in this regard?? I would like to know now, BEFORE I make a purchase that I may someday regret. Thankyou in advance for your input.
Tim, that is the least of your worries! Ask Justin who just bought a 2010 DC 4×4 and had it for 36 hours and put 92 miles on it before the check engine light came on needing major maintenance. Its under “2010 Toyota Tundra WTI gear assembly explained”.
Suggestion and comment:
Since the engine knocking noise and crankshaft issues are now well known in the industry, and as the primary issue for the value of the tundra 5.7 L. (which we paid top dollar to purchase a quality truck) I believe TOYOTA should automatically extend or issue a memorandum that if the engine fails due to one of these primary issues, they will fix the engine for free. The noisy engine has prevented me from selling the truck. I don’t want to lose that much money nor give it away. Now I am stuck with it….like hundreds and thousands others. I believe at least 65% of all 5.7 L engines have this noise issue including the new 2010 models. To put my mind at ease, I have rented at least 4 tundras just to see if they make the same noise…they all did and one of them was louder than mine… so it made me feel a bit better knowing it could be worse. Some are louder and some are less but the bottom line is: TOYOTA needs to address this problem. It’s like having a ticking heart and you dont know when it is going to give up. An uncomfortable feeling. We need help on this.
I believe that the quality or lack of has been an issue for at least the past several years now! TOYOTA REFUSES to acknowledge the issues serious enough to prompt a recall for the 2007 thru 2010 Tundras..yet if you were to look at all the issues the 2007 thru 2010 on this site alone…
Toyota should not only be ashamed but be held accountable for these issues…we All in good faith bought what we thought was a QUALITY Reputable Truck in The Toyota Tundra…but feel we do have some serious issues with our Tundras..
just check out the MANY other Tundra truck owners that are having the SAME issues…WHO will represent us? Where do we stand…we pay out TOP prices and cannot even sell our vechicles as they are NOT worth much due to ALL the KNOWN troubles! Maybe if everyone on this site should get together to get them to take notice!
Lisa,
We are on the same page and I believe most of us are…We just need to have a “united front” and find out where and how to get all these issues acknowledged and solved by Toyota.
Anyone with more knowledge in this matter????
I have a 2007 DC 4×2…the whole truck leans slightly to the left. The wheel well to tire is longer on p/s by 1/2 inch…Took it to Team Toyota in Highland Indiana and they said it is within Toyota specs…I will take it to another dealer soon, but I will be disapointed if I will be stuck driving a $40,000 vehicle that leans…I loved Toyota for a long time now but I am starting to have my doubts…
I am so dissatisfied with my 2007 SR5 I have started to convey my feeling to anyone who is contemplating purchasing a Toyota. I owned a 2005 SR5 before this piece of crap. The difference is amazing! The 2005 had quality of both materials and build. The 2007 is made of plastic and the quality is terrible. 45000 miles and the speed sensors are an issue, the dash rattles like a 20 year old Chevy and the interior is just plain wearing out! I can’t wait until my lease is up!
While I wouldn’t want to discredit anyone having issues with their Tundra, I want to state this loud, and clear. I purchased the very first 2007 crew cab 5.7L, 4X4 Tundra’s from our local dealer. While I did have the stereo issue, I’ve never had it to the garage for anything other than routine maintenance (oil, tire rotation). I have put 65,000 miles on it and look forward to many more miles. I mostly drive interestate, but have had my truck off road some and I don’t drive the in the flatlands, rather in the hills of wild, wonderful, West Virginia. As a matter of fact, anyone in my area that I know of driving a Tundra has nothing but positive things to say about them.
United we Stand…Divided We fall…
I believe that we should ALL get together and start a CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT agaisnt TOYOTA…I can’t imagine that with MOST of us having the very SAME issues all over the country that our individual trucks can be considered FLUKS….it is NOT a coincidance…TOYOTA has sold us LESS than QUALITY Trucks and why should we ALL be STUCK with LEMONS! I have NO idea how to get a class action lawsuit started…but I think we are at a point that we ALL should take a stand together and get HEARD!
Does ANYONE know how to start a class action lawsuit?
How many would be interested in pursuing this?
I would be willing to doing the leg work in finding out how to get a Class Action started.
In the meantime I feel that each of us should start spreading the news anywhere and everywhere to warn others to NOT BUY TOYOTA TUNDRA’s…we should start Bloggin on our facebooks, twitter, Blog spot, myspace, utube, Where ever you can blog or post your comments regarding the issues we are experiencing with our toyota tundras…
any ideas on how to get this started you can contact me at
trtmelikealadi[at]yahoo.com
Przemek: Did you have a full tank of gas when you measured? I’ve seen trucks lean due to having a full tank. Otherwise, I’ve spoken to owners of trucks from other makes/models, who state their trucks lean ever so slightly and the dealer states it’s within spec. Most the time you can’t notice it, unless you’re anal about those type of things like I am.
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Dan: I agree that the 1st Gen Tundra was built much better, with much better materials than the current 2nd Gen Tundra. Well, except for the frames that are rusting on the 1st Gen models.
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Lisa Dees: Don’t think you’ll get much support from many members on this site. Too many feel their truck is practically flawless and needs no improvements. Now I don’t own a Tundra, but have seen many of the issues owners are describing. I’m not sure what it would take, and if there is enough merit to start a class action lawsuit.
Justin,
I am not trying to stir anyone up or cause bad feelings…however I do feel that there are Several folks here as well as MANY others that are NOT aware of this site that have enough issues to get Toyota to take responsibility and do Something about these issues MOST of us are dealing with…if nothing more than extending the warranty…but Toyota SHOULD stand behind their products! We paid CASH…Blood sweat & tear Cash money…for what we felt was a Quality…Reputable…Reliable…Truck…in good faith…They should Stand behind their Product in Good Faith!
Not to mention Our resale value has also been lowered by all these issues…so should we just sit back and be STUCK with what we are dealt???? or Should we at least attempt to get our problems dealt with and get our faith restored in Toyota?
I just feel that if we that do own these Tundras and Are having issues would get some results if we Stand together and voice our concerns to Toyota!
Lisa as far as value or resale you won’t get anything from anyone on that. The issues yes and maybe but not the resale.
Help! I have a 2007 4X4 Reg cab with 43,000mi and I have had virtually no problems. I have read some people talk about a deisel noise when the engine is cold. My Tundra has been doing that since 10,000 miles. It doesnt bother me so I just leave it alone. I get about 19mpg’s at 65mph. I do tow my 5000lb RV and I still get about 12mpg at 65mph. 4X4 works great. I got stuck in the mud with the RV in tow, I switched to 4X4 hi and pulled right out. For the record I agree that the stock tires suck so I changed those about 500miles ago (they were worn out). I dont understand some of these brake problems people are having. I still have plenty of brake pad left on the front and the rear brakes look virtually unworn. I pull my RV and a great deal of my driving was mountain driving so I ask how can people warp rotors and and burn up brakes. I say you should get at least 75,000 miles on pads. Of course I dont ride my brakes and I have electric trailer brakes and a brake controler for my RV.
I am the biggest fan of Toyota Tundra and I personally have owned one every year since 1999. I was also told I was one of the first five to purchased the Ivan Stewart package in 2002 and put the supper-charger on it. The baddest ass truck on the road until my monkey faced (ex girlfriend) rear ended someone while trying to watch the DVD player while driving (dumb ***ch!) Anyway I have a new 2008 Tundra 5.7 V8, which is all stock. I have only put 8000 miles on it, because it sits in the garage all the time. Anyway I had just pulled it out of storage and had a friend driving behind me. He called me on my cell and said hey your back wheels are obviously not tracking straight and miss align the front wheels significantly.
I just took it to dealer where I purchased and the service manager confirmed our find. He told us that they needed to measure the tolerance of the situation and said that if there was a significant problem they didn’t know how to fix it. I then called the salesman I bought the truck from and he seemed concerned. He said that he would talk to service and call me right back which he did. He immediately said the only way this problem could happen is if I JUMPED the truck or pulled something way to heavy. So before they have even put the truck on the proper diagnostic machine he is already making me feel like I am some Duke of Hazard Tundra jumper and it makes me feel paranoid. Is the first signs of getting screwed? Has anyone else found this problem… rear axle… wheel alignment… tracking issue?
It seems like lately in our world lots of big corporations are getting away with too many lies and cheatings of their loyal customers. Plus I am hearing a big clunk noise coming from what sounds like my tailgate area. Any info would be of help. Hey thanks to everyone posting on this site. If all of us Americans would do more of this type of socializing it might keep the big guys a little more honest.
Rhythm Unknown – First of all, if she was monkey-faced, why did you date her? I’ve got an idea, but I’d like to here why! 🙂
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In terms of your problem: I HAVE heard of this before. Some trucks didn’t align perfectly straight from the factory. However, this might be a cosmetic issue and it might not. Are the tires wearing normally? Is the truck steering correctly? Is your performance hindered in any way? I often see trucks that are slightly off on the road, so I’m wondering if it’s a big issue or a little one. Also, as far as the salesman saying you jumped it or over-loaded it, not true. Some trucks come from the factory a little off – how much is the important question.
John as far as the brakes are concern there’s nothing wrong in making them last. I have an 07 with 80,850 miles on it and I’m still on the original brake pads. I do tow my boat, 18.5 ft, every other week. I have just under 20% on the rear and just under 50% on the front. Depending on the RV weight you’re pulling you should consider a brake controller. That’s legally speaking. Like you stated people have different driving styles and some are hard on brakes like waiting till the last second to stop using hard brakes. Some ride the brakes and not notice it. If yours last so be it. The 06 Silverado I had only 20,000 miles on it and it had to have the brake disc turned on all four. Still had vibration in the rear when you pressed on the brakes. It could be the luck of the draw in the disc being used. I used my 06 the same way I’m using my 07 Crewmax. My style of driving hasn’t changed because I changed trucks. I’m trying for 100,000 miles on the rear pads. I got me replacements already and I’ll check them again when it’s time to rotate the tires.
I have a 2007 Toyota tundra the lights on the radio have blinked every now and then since have owned it new. I have taken it in three times and the dealership says there is nothing wrong with it. This is my first and last Toyota. I think the toyota tundra is a cheap made truck. I think Toyota has a lot of electrical issues they do not want to address. The gas pedal issue I think is electrical. That is why I am trading this piece of junk in . Not another Toyota.
I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra 4.7L V8 double cab. I currently have 52,000 miles on it. I will have had the vehicle 36 months in May of this year. Today I had to put it in the shop for the second time in less than a year for the valves in the exhaust going out. Has anyone else had this problem? $1,800 in less than 12 months, for a vehicle only with 52,000 miles on it, is sad. I want buy another Toyota if problems like this persist.
Jeremy isn’t your truck still covered under the 3yrs. 60,000 mile warranty? I live 600kms by dirt road from the nearest Toyota dealership and got my gas pedal recall fixed on my truck by a local garage. I am very pleased with the arrangements made by the Toyota dealer where I bought my truck considering that I live in such a remote area. I have previously owned 3 new Chev pickups before buying my 2007 Toyota D Cab 5.7 V8 and this truck has exceeded all my expectations. The gas pedal recall is the only issue that I had to take to a garage for other then regular service.
First time Owner of a truck and went with a 07 crewmax sr5 4×4. Have a question regarding the 4×4. It seems as though when in 4high the wheels lock up. Turning seems forced. The dealership states its normal. To allow torque. Like I said first time owning a truck so if it is normal then I’m OK with that. Thanks in advanced.
Ricky: Welcome to the site! I don’t own a Tundra, but what you describe sounds familiar when in 4WD, whether hi or lo, on all part-time 4×4 trucks I’ve owned. Now does it only feel like the wheels are locking up when turning? Especially when trying to attempt a sharp turn? If so, then yes this is typical of 4×4 trucks when the front end is locked in. Now don’t attempt excessively sharp turns when in 4WD, as you will feel a lot of friction, push back and it will be difficult to turn. This is a sign of driveline bind that you want to avoid if at all possible. Too much of this and you can see premature wear or failure of driveline component. Here’s a good defenition of what I think you’re expeiencing.
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When the transfer-case is in Part Time mode whether high or low, the front and rear driveshaft’s are more or less physically engaged/locked together within the transfer-case. Because of this positive engagement power is sent to both driveshafts, simultaneously.A negative aspect of this engagement is when trying to turn right and left. The front tires will want to travel in a different track/path than the rear wheels. Because of this different track the front driveshaft will want to turn at a different speed than the rear driveshaft. When this occurs and you are on a surface that provides a high level of traction such as dry asphalt or concrete, you will feel driveline bind that is occurring inside the transfer-case.
http://www.grobe.us/Jeep/Tech/.....all-LT.htm
i would like to talk about my 2007 tundra crewcab speacial edition which i thought at first would be my ideal truck to have
and put to the test when i work in construction. over a period of time i experienced a jolting movement when i quickly came to a stop and accerlerated right after…and then a jolt happened. Nothing was in the trunk, im not a crazy driver. It would just happen on the freeway when theres moderate traffic on the i-80. the offical terms for the specific problems that im currently having for some time now, transmission hesitation, sag on stumble which usually occurs after a stop. chuggle. similiar to the feel of towing a trailer. Now ive taken my truck the prefferred body shop 3 times already, and have driven my truck with a mechanic from toyota inside and they said that theres nothing they can do. So im left with a truck which used to be heaven on wheels to now..a hassle to try and not crash into the car in front of me when it jolts.
Ricardo bear with me on this. I wrote this on Tundratalk website and I was talking with 2 Toyota tech’s. Here’s what I wrote then their responses:
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Maybe you or Hemi can give me some inside on this. This has happen now for at least 2 years. It caught me by suprise the first two times but since then I knew not to do a certain thing if I can avoid it. It wasn’t till recently I read about this and they put this with the SUA. I had my pedal done a month ago and I can pretty much still replicate it. BTW I’m begining to believe the Unintended Acceleration can happen after the pedal fix. Why? The pedal isn’t the fix. I really beleive it’s in the computer. On another thread I asked a member who works as a tech for Toyota a question on what is called SUA. I thought for the longest it was just driving and then it takes off on you. That isn’t the only issue for SUA. Another issue is when you just take off fast and go for 3 seconds and then hit the brakes hard to a stop. Still hold your foot on the brake for a reason. Roughly after the complete stop you wait about a second and then the engine and tranny kicks in and tries to lunge you forward. If you took your foot off or just started to release it the truck will move forward on you unsuspectingly. I can also replicate that by also when I do the hard braking and put my tranny into neutral but right when I come to a complete stop I put the tranny in drive it will lunge again forward. I’m not talking about like you take it out of neutral sitting still and put it in drive. That won’t replicate it. It happen’s when you apply the brakes hard. It’s like over running it, and the computer it trying to catch up. After doing this hard stop if I try to give it gas it does nothing for a second or two then hits hard to take off. Tomorrow I will try to get to the dealer and drive one of the service advisers and show them this. I’m asking you or Hemi is this part of that SUA?
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Nastyn8 wrote this:
Well first off remember that the current campaign (A0A) only addresses the mechanically sticking pedal. This whole campaign was based on 4 sticking pedals in high mileage Avalons in humid areas, but every Toyota with a CTS pedal gets the fix.
The 90L is the potential floor mat interference campaign, this will add the brake override to the system.
SUA is when you accellerate, lift off the pedal to stop accelerating and you keep accelerating. The issue you are describing is not one I have heard before and may be a normal characteristic of the truck. SUA is deemed to make you loose control of the truck, in the situation you are describing when you feel the hit, or unloading do you lose control of the truck? Or by holding the brake is it just something you feel at the time? I would reccomend that when you test drive with someone from the dealer that you dont do your shift to nuetral and back into drive thing since that is not the way it is reccomended to drive the truck.
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Hemi LOL wrote this:
Mickey to me what it sounds like your describing is an “anti stall” program that prevents you from stabbing the gas and quickly letting off can starve larger displacement engines when takin off throttle too quickly. This was what used to be called an “anti stall solenoid” that would be attached to a carb. Typically seen on manual transmission vehicles and was designed to give a little more than idle to help this situation out. Another one like this and you all can get in your truck and try it. When in gear at idle, slightly turn your steering wheel and you’ll notice your rpm raise by 100 to 200 rpm. This is so the idle doesn’t drop too low and cause a stall. Ford used to have a problem with the anti stall that was REALLY over agressive. Mom used to have an 87 cougar with the 3.8 and sometimes when you came to a stop it would pick up 700 rpm! And about run you into the car in front of you if you weren’t payin attention! Lol lol anyway Mickey, I believe this is what your explaning. NASTYN8 chime in if you have another thought as that’s the main one I could think of.
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Hope that helps you in what you’re looking for. I have what you’re describing but in the same manner I know how to control it too.
All I have to say is, If you live on an unmaintained dirt road, don’t buy a 2007-10 tundra. You’ll regret it.
Hunter grow up. As you stated you never owned one, or drove one so you comment on one. Go find someplace else to put your troll works at.
Mickey, where did I say i’d never own or drive one? What are you, physic?! You seem to have a knack for putting words in peoples mouths. And what did I type that is immature? Seems pretty legitimate to me, especially when my neighbor that lives one house down from me has cracked bed mounts.
Hi, I own a 2007 Tundra SR5 Double cab, I really love my truck, but I am having a Power steering leak at the gear assy, I have asked my dealer thaey say that I need to replace the complete gear assy asthere is repair kit for it, I am sure that other parts manufacturers will or are producing this reapair kit, can you give me an idea of where to find of, a brand or a web page. I will also like to know if someone else had this problem.
Hunter have you sent the pics of the bed mounts to Jason?
Nope, can’t, Shelly has put in a spray bedliner.
i have a 2007 trunda 4X4 and with 50,000 miles on veh the drives belt broke any one ever had this problem. 5.7.
I’m sure your tensioner cause that to happen. The tensioner tends to bind causing the belt to crack and pit till it breaks. I would have that checked. My belt had to be replaced because my tensioner was bent due to a deer strike around 43,000 miles. I have 85,000 miles on my 07 CM. I do carry a spare one just in case. I do travel alot so this is why.
Hello.
I am getting ready to buy a used truck. I am currently comparing a 2007 Tundra Crew Cab 4×2 SR5 5.7L V8 with a Ford F150 Lariat 5.4L V8.
Anyone have any recommendations on one of these trucks versus the other?
I have owned both Ford and Toyota in the past with no major service issues from either.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Joe in TX: I assume both trucks you’re looking at are 2007 models and similarly equipped. Personally, I’d opt for the F150, being I own an ’06. But I will say, both are good trucks.
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If power/speed is what you ultimately want, then the 5.7L Tundra has the advantage over the 5.4L Ford. The Tundra provides an aggresive 4.30 gearing, where as the F150 will most likely have a less aggressive gearing (3.55 or 3.73). The Tundra does offer a 6-spd transmission compared to the 4-spd in the F150. The Tundra Crew Max offers more interior space than the F150 Screw. The knock on the Tundra for ’07 is it was the first model year after a complete redesign, which typically leads to more problems than a 2nd or 3rd year of a particular model. Consumer Reports even removed its recommended status on the 07 Tundra due to the volume of problems the redesigned Tundra had.
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If you do get the 2007 F150, make sure the seller swaps the spark plugs. The 04-07 MY’s have had many occurances of the plugs getting seized/stuck. This was a poor 2-piece plug design on Fords behalf, which they fixed starting with the ’08 models. Basically one of the two pieces gets stuck in the head, requiring a special tool for removal. That is the biggest issue impacting the 2007 F150.
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From a style and fit/finish standpoint, I personally like the F150 over the Tundra. The Tundra was a sea of cheap plastic interior, the sheet metal is extremely thin and much easier to dent, and the paint as well is very thin. Again this is just one mans opinion, but I’m sure others here will chime in with theirs.
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Good luck and just know, no matter which you select, you’ll be getting a good truck.
Joe are you going to be towing? Then the Tundra is where your bread and butter is. As for Justin’s statement of the first model year after a complete design is a myth. I had many issues on an 06 Silverado and a 03 F-150 and these trucks been out for a couple of years. Justin is bias just like a few on here are towards a Tundra. He kind of warn you about the ejecting spark plugs. Thin sheet metal on the Tundra but yet the Tundra outweighs the F-150. As far as the so called cheap plastic, style/fit finish that’s opinionated. You would have to decide that factor. The 4×4 of the 07 model wasn’t recommended not the 4×2. The 4×2 won the overall category in C/R but since the 4×4 had a recall on the shaft C/R pulled the recommendation. I have that mag. So the 4×2 you mention did have the highest honors from C/R. With the 6 speed tranny on the 5.7 I have EPA gave it 20mpg hwy. I avg 20 – 22mpg. I have 85,000 miles on my 07 CM. If you want a history of either truck then go to ODI or NHTSA and retrieve the recalls and TSB’s and read them.
Nope, the f150 is about 200 lbs more than a tundra.
Mickey: I know this is a Tundra site and all, but don’t be such a Tundra homer/fanboy. The first model year issue is clearly not a myth, as there are plenty of recall and TSB evidence to back up those claims, for domestic and import vehicles. And if the 1st model year issue is a myth, why did CR end up removing its recommendation of the V8 4×4 Tundra in 2007? Was it due to the sheer volume of problems experienced that year? Didn’t the head of Toyota even come out and admit the Tundra quality and problems were basically an embarrassment to Toyota? But the Tundra over the last couple model years, once the kinks were worked out, has risen back to the top end of the pack? Heck, I’ll admit the F150 after its redesign for the 04 model year had many issues as well, I have nothing to hide. Why do you think I opted for an ’06? It’s had a couple minor issues under warranty repair, but nothing catastrophic or a major component (PassFront speaker replaced, message center light bulb replaced, Ford Blue Oval on grille replaced, TSB for reflash of PCM for 2-3 tranny shift). But I’ll provide my history honestly, cause I have nothing to hide and would prefer a potential owner to know the truth about a vehicle.
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Towing is in the eye of the beholder. I tow just fine here in CO, at an altitude much higher than the flatlanders of FL. Sure the Tundra has the power to move the weight quicker, and we all know this. But that’s not the only factor that goes into towing a load.
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You had many issues with your ’06 Silvy and ’03 F150. And? I have a co-worker who owns an ’05 or ’06 MY 4-Runner. Gal can’t keep it out of the shop. My boss has an ’07 Corolla for a DD and has been in for various warranty repairs? Both love Toyota for their quality and reliability, but they seem to blush when I ask how many times they’ve been in for repairs. People continue to report problems with their ’08, ’09 and ’10 Tundras like you report about your former trucks. So your point is? Every vehicle has problems, heck just review the TundraSolutions, this site and TundraTalk. Plenty of people on those sites with Tundra issues. Just like if you frequented a Ford forum, I’m sure you’ll find plenty of people with plenty of problems with their F150. You also may hear about more F150 problems than Tundra, but you have to account for the volume of sales difference between the Tundra and the F150. We all know Toyota doesn’t sell near the volume of Tundras that Ford sales of F150s, so you’re bound to hear of more F150 issues since there are so many more on the road. But you continue to act like the Tundra is the all mighty and has not one issue or flaw. Fact is, these vehicles are made by humans, who are not perfect. Which in the end makes these vehicles imperfect.
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You say I’m biased, but I give the Tundra props where due, where as I have yet to hear you say a good thing about any other truck than the Tundra. Think you need to take off your rose tinted glasses off and see things in the proper light. I warned him about the plugs, because I’m unbiased and want to help a potential owner out. Give him advice on things to look for. Not try to sugar coat my response and say X truck is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Did you warn him out the 5.7L where over time it starts rattling like a diesel? Did you warn him about the possible $4K Air Injection System Problem? Um no, no you didn’t. An unbiased person would provide the goods, just as much as the bads. So until you can do so, you have no room to call anyone biased. Otherwise, you are just being hypocritical and living by a double standard.
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The Tundra does outweigh the 04-08 model F150, model for model. But the F150 weighs more than the Tundra when you look at the 09-11 model years. Plenty of people on this site, let alone TundraTalk and TundraSolutions have commented about the thin sheet metal. So what exactly was your point regarding weight? Just because the sheet metal is thin doesn’t mean other components of the truck aren’t heavy.
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Cheap plastic interior is opinion. But I wonder why all these magazines and online research complain about the cheap plastic interior of the Tundra, but praise the Ram and F150 for their interior? So yes it is opinion, but not just mine. And I’m not a fan of the Ram, but admit it does have a real good interior for the 09+ models.
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Oh, so the 4×4 version wasn’t recommended. Then the Tundra had a recall for the driveshaft, which dropped it out of recommended status. So didn’t you just prove my point that 1st model years typically have more problems? It’s not like CR would just stop recommending a Toyota product for no reason at all. You’re funny cause when CR recommends a Toyota, you are all over to praise them and bash those losers. But if CR doesn’t recommend a Toyota product, you bash them and want to say their review was tainted, or make up a lame excuse. Can’t have it both ways my friend.
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Oh, and I’m glad you are one of the few that hits 20+mpgs. Cause most the posts I review regarding mpgs on the Tundra forums I previously mentioned, there are only a hand full of people that state they reach anywhere near those levels. And if you read more than just one or two of their posts, you usually see a homer/fanboy trend on all items related to the Tundra.
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Joe in TX: I do apologize for my response to Mickey. Just want you to understand the full scope of both vehicles. Whether you choose the Tundra or F150 is your decision. No one else can make it for you. And no one’s feelings will be hurt no matter which truck you select. Well maybe Mickey’s will if you choose anything other than the Tundra. I suggest you go drive both for an extended amount of time and judge for yourself. I can say one thing, Mickey can say another, but you truly won’t know until you test them yourself. I would hate for you to drop tens of thousands of dollars on an F150 simply because what I said, and then end up being disappointed. I also would feel the same way if you used Mickey’s opinion and found the Tundra didn’t live up to the hype he portrays. So go take them for a spin and let us know your true unbiased opinion of the trucks. Good luck truck shopping!
HEAR HEAR
Amen!
Justin get off your high horse. You’re always looking for ways to put down Toyota period. If the first model year of any new vehicle was a problem then how do the manufacturer’s sell them? If they go by your reply nothing would sell on any first model redesign. Again you’re proving a myth. As far as TSB’s and recalls you have just as many after the redesign year. Justin you know exactly why C/R pulled it’s recommendation. Don’t play dumb now. Justin I can say the same thing about the minor issue I had with my 07 CM. That’s why I told him to do the research from ODI and NHTSA to look at the TSB’s and Recalls. Not fill him with minor stuff like you just did. Towing to the eye of the beholder? Come on Justin even in the mountains the truck still has to pull the load. I don’t care about how fast. You can’t compare the two so it won’t be in the eye of the beholder. You warned about the plugs but simply left out exactly what they do when they aren’t changed. Justin did I or didn’t I state to look at ODI or NHTSA for recalls and TSB’s? That Air Induction pump is a TSB on that. Now that proves you wrong again. I gave the info and I didn’t sugar coated it unlike you with the minor issues. TSB’s and Recalls don’t lie there Justin! Justin you have mags for and against don’t just pick & chose what supports your story on the plastics. Again Justin you have recalls and TSB’s on later model years Now how does that prove your point? You are letting bias views control you. Justin did you bother to check the results from C/R back in 07? You would have seen that the 07 4×2 Tundra was on top. That’s your Mag now explain that. I didn’t brag on it. You know C/R was embarassed by recommending the Tundra, and when the recall was put out they did damage control to save face. Now if I was boasting why didn’t I mention the other awards given to the Tundra? Insurance Institue giving Tundra 5 star rating the highest ever given to a Truck. Did you see that? You want to come again. You need to read what you put out my friend before going on. As far as the mpg thing contact EPA for the 16mpg city and 20mpg hwy rating it gave on my sticker. You want to see that to? If you visited the forums you would have seen what I stated and how you can go about getting that higher mpg’s. Justin about the homer/fanboy you are using the old cliche’ the pot calling the kettle black. Again you need to look at yourself. You do alot of the same things guy. I can’t belive Justin you would stoop low just to get your opinion out….That’s right Opinion because we are both doing our own opinions which are bias to what we own. I stated that up there, now do I have to put capital letters for you to read it? You avoid it and won’t state it. So who’s the real homer/fanboy? Justin I don’t really care if Joe buys a GM product either. This is Joe’s major decision not ours. He buys what’s right for him not us period. We can’t see the future on what will happen for Joe. All we can honestly do is what happen to us in what we have and the rest is up in the recalls an TSB’s for him to read. That doesn’t hide any falsehoods. I mention that. If you’re so honest why didn’t you?
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Hunter did you bother readin Justin’s statement which 07 truck has more weight? This is the model year Joe was looking at.
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Hear hear
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Amen!
Great, it was a disagreement of opinions. Mickey your not right Justin you not right. Justin was listing the issues he knew off and has possibly had. Mickey you really didnt list anything until the last post. So yes i can see what Justin was saying. As for a new production model vehicle having issues I fully agree. Look at Tundra, Ford to include SD diesel, even Honda has issues with some of the first MY vehicles. Its gonna happen, what do you think Jason?
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TSB- just because there is a TSB or even a recall doesn’t mean it pertains to every vehicle model made that year.
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Joe, I wouldn’t use what these two guys say or this site as recommendations for either vehicle. It says tundra in the title so you know they will be bias. If I wanted a unbiased review of a vehicle I would go to places like Edmunds, yahoo autos, any place that gives the owners a chance to rate their vehicle. Usually they speak from the heart and will tell If have had luck or not! Dont forget there are other brands to consider also, Nissan and Dodge also make some vehicles to take note of! Best of luck!
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Jason sounds like there are some issues with tones in general, But hey its your site.
greg – I don’t think that anyone’s tone is too out of line. Mickey and Justin have argued in the past (and I’ve argued with both of them at one point or another) and I don’t think it’s as personal as it might appear. Of course, I could be wrong.
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Also, I think that this site isn’t a bad place to get a review. Our latest comparison between the Tundra and the F150 was a tie, and our GM vs. Tundra comparison recommended the 5.3 Chevy to truck owners who didn’t need a lot of power. Maybe instead of assuming the site is always biased, you should examine your own opinions. It’s certainly not perfect, but it’s not as if we’re simply a mouthpiece for Toyota. If that were the case, we wouldn’t have covered all the rust problems, dived head-first into bed bounce, etc.
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Joe – My opinion? When it comes to used vehicles, all bets are off. Once they’ve been driven by someone, the most important thing is the condition of the vehicle’s you’re looking at. I’d much rather have a clean F150 that’s been well-taken care of than a ratty Tundra that might not have been cared for.
greg – In regards to your question about first model year issues, I’m not convinced. An auto engineer I know with some experience has argued that first model year vehicles are actually MORE reliable because engineers “over-build” on their first pass, and because automakers haven’t had a chance to start cost-cutting with suppliers yet. Of course, my experience tells me that first model-year vehicles have problems that seem sort of obvious. Mickey’s truck, for example, has been great, but there were a lot of Tundra owners that experienced the rumble strip problem. Not to mention Toyota’s silly tailgate mistake (which they corrected, but still). It might be interesting to review JD Power’s “problems per 100 vehicles” ratings for a few specific makes and models over the life of a particular design. That would be the most scientific way to answer the question.
I have to chime in and say I will look towards buying a F150 in September when my lease runs out. (I bought extended miles on a 2007) I have had problems with the wheel sensors which have cost a good bit of money. Also the dealership closest to me perfers to cater to BMW’s and Mercedes rather than Toyota owners. Another issue has been the reluctence of the service department to believe I have transmission problems. It’s the “We can’t duplicate the slippige problem!” The 2005 I owned was a smaller, but far better truck.
I am chimming in as well. I bought a 2007 Tundra and have no issues up to date (other than radio replacement). Today, I am going to pick up my 2010 Tundra. Need I say more?
Dan #1 – Sorry to hear that. The good news is that the F150 is a great truck too, so I’m sure you’ll be happy with it. As for wheel speed sensors…those things break on all makes and models.
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Dan #2 – Congrats!
Mickey: You’re hilarious. I’ll knock Toyota, as much as I’ll knock GM, or Chrysler or Ford or Nissan, etc. You simply see mostly the Toyota knocking because well, we are on a Toyota site now aren’t we? Those on Toyota sites have a harder time accepting the truth about their vehicles, just as people on GM forums have this same problem, as Ford owners do on their forums. So your denial and Toyota biased view comes as no surprise.
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How do manufacturers sell first model year vehicles? Easy. You have your population that has to have the latest and greatest. You have your population that knows the manufacturer provides a warranty that covers repairs. You have your less informed population that is unaware of 1st model year issues. You have your population that are die-hard fanatics of the make or model that will purchase no matter the problems. You have your population that will purchase the best make/model for their needs, regardless if it’s a 1st year model or not. If this is a myth, why did the 07 Tundra have more issues than the ’08, ’09 or the current ’10 models? Reviewing ODI date, in ’07 they have 13 reports, in ’08 they had 9, in ’09 they had 3 reports and for ’10 models they have 1 report. This is a trend typically seen for every make/model after a complete or even partial redesign. You can continue to deny this claim, but there are plenty of examples out there that prove this matter. I have no more reason to argue this point with you. You are simply unwilling to accept the facts of the situation.
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Yes I know why CR removed the recommendation from the ’07 Tundra and ’07 Camry with 6spd. They were problematic and didn’t live up to Toyota’s quality standards or CR’s standards. You can claim otherwise, but again you are just denying yourself the truth of the matter. If this was not the case, why has CR now moved the Tundra back into recommended status? And I never said CR was my magazine. Actually, I’m not too fond of CR. You were the one to bring up CR to help prove your point, and I simply continued to use it to disprove your point. You may want to review your own posts before trying to claim something that is untrue. Sure CR removed its recommendation to partially save face, I can see that. But they were doing so to be truthful and honest to the consumer. How would it look to consumers if the Tundra stayed on the recommended list even though it wasn’t worth the recommendation status? Well, consumers would start to question CR’s reliability and it would display that CR had a bias towards the Tundra.
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And I didn’t warn him of the problem? Hmm, let’s look back at what I stated from my post on May 17th at 8:08am: “If you do get the 2007 F150, make sure the seller swaps the spark plugs. The 04-07 MY’s have had many occurrences of the plugs getting seized/stuck. This was a poor 2-piece plug design on Fords behalf, which they fixed starting with the ‘08 models. Basically one of the two pieces gets stuck in the head, requiring a special tool for removal.” Wow, looks like I told him exactly that the plugs can get stuck and require a special tool for removal. So, thanks for trying to discredit me, even if it was a poor attempt at doing so.
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Ok, so ODI and NHTSA show the Air Induction problem. Your point is? Exactly how does that prove me wrong by saying on May 18th at 8:18am “Did you warn him about the possible $4K Air Injection System Problem?” You didn’t warn him. Sure indirectly you may have by referring him to this site. But you were quick to point out F150 flaws, so to be truthful and unbiased; you should have pointed out these issues. Not sidestep it by referring to another site. Anyone can do that, but he was specifically asking us (all forum users) our opinion and experience, not what another site could tell him.
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Dang, can’t you realize the fact of the matter on TSB’s and Recalls, that 1st model year vehicles typically have more than later models? Yes it is true later models do have recalls and TSB’s too, I never denied this. But that still doesn’t discredit the fact that 1st model year vehicles typically have more TSB/Recalls than later model years. You continue to deny yourself the fact of the matter. I do not know why I continue to argue this point with you, because you simply are not willing to accept the truth.
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Bias views control me? I do have my own bias, I admit. I prefer Fords, but a potential owner of a product should know the goods and bads about the vehicles being compared. I’ve started to do so, providing goods/bads for both the F150 and Tundra. I’m willing to accept the flaws of the F150, which clearly you are unwilling to accept those for the Tundra. I’ve driven both trucks (Crew Cabs, 4×4, w/5.4L and 5.7L) and admit in ways the Tundra prevails. Then again, the F150 also prevails over the Tundra in certain categories as well.
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You can boast about the Tundra awards, just as much as I can boast about the F150s awards. What is your point again? Seems like you are just rambling because not everyone agrees with your opinion.
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Actually, the 07-10 Tundra does better the 04-08 F150 in certain crash ratings. Just as the 04-08 F150 betters the Tundra in certain crash ratings. And to be truthful, the 09+ F150 has the best crash ratings ever given to a full-size truck.
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EPA ratings, anyone with an ounce of common sense, know those are figures that are made in a controlled environment. You do not get these same perfect controlled environment conditions in every day driving, unless you are coasting, downhill, with a tailwind no matter where you drive. So be happy your sticker says 16/20, but in the real world from real owners, there are few and far between any that actually bring home 20mpgs. Again if you do, great, you can consider yourself one of the luck few.
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Homer/fanboy, well in some ways I am, I admit. I will back the F150 in areas I know it bests the Tundra and be proud of it. When it falls short and the Tundra is better, I admit when the Ford is outmatched. I may not be proud of this, but admit when the F150 has been outclassed. This is something typical fanboys/homers cannot bring themselves to do. And by your responses, you have reacted in this fashion. If you are not a fanboy/homer, then let’s see you say some positives about the Silver, Ram or F150 where it betters the Tundra, like I have when the Tundra betters the F150. Problem is, I don’t think you can either bring yourself to do so, or simply your view is too tainted to accept the facts of the matter.
First off Greg I didn’t list what my truck had because the reason the 4 issues were minor and I caused 3 of them. Didn’t click the gas cap, check engine light. Painted my rotors and left a little tape on two studs which broke off. At a BBQ place and someone broke the pass mirror. Last item was my console glove box didn’t stay close all the time. Now Greg are you happy? These aren’t the things Justin has been stating. Just like Justin’s issues aren’t the normal except his TSB. Greg I’m trying to be polite but you are way off course about the TSB’s and recalls. The easiest way I can put it, Greg they have no TSB’s on the 4 issues I put down or what most of what Justin put down. TSB’s are the common issues of that model Greg with a solution that you can’t read. Recalls tell a serious issue of that model. Yes some vehicles aren’t included. That’s where you can get a general idea about the vehicle Greg by checking these vice hear say from Justin and I. That’s why I wrote it and no personal issues on my truck. Greg why would anyone take your recommendation when all you do here is troll. Tell me what’s wrong with a govt. website?
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Jason I agree with what you wrote about first model year issues. As I mentioned above my 4 issues and I’m at 85,400 miles on my 07 CM. My last two trucks definitely proved that theory wrong.
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Justin just as long as you recognize we are both the same in bias to our makers and I guess as you put it homer/fanboys I am okay with that. Justin I’ll simply go back to the last two trucks I had and that’s enough there. You want me to list it all I can just as much. You believe what you must and I will do the same. Justin CR pulled their recommendation right after Toyota announced the recall on the shaft which made them look bad about recommending a vehicle without testing. Again Justin did I write or didn’t I write to search ODI or NHTSA? That’s where the majority of the issues are not what I had wrong with my truck. The air induction is on a TSB. If I go by Greg meaning it’s not on all trucks. Need I say more? Okay Justin tell me how a 3rd year model has an issue with abs, tail lights falling off and not to mention the headliner constantly falling down? Those issues shouldn’t be happening in accordance to what you’re stating. Justion I have mentioned before where GM has outdone Toyota in certain real guages is one of them. Curb view mirrors is another special item. Heated seats GM beats Toyota in their design. Those were mentioned before. I know you skipped those. It’s okay I’m good with what you wrote. I also mention the fact that it was the dealerships that turned me away with the issues of dealing with them and leaving me high and dry on a warranty issue. You know what I wrote before so I’ll repeat it I will buy a Ford before a GM. I won’t even look at a Dodge or Nissan.
Mickey, im sorry! I fully understand everything now.
That was me.
I have an 08 tundra with the 5.7 and i have experenced the radio turning off by itself along with all the interior lights. I now have a leak there is oil on the underbody of the truck and around the head gaskets on the top of the motor? The truck has 44km. I have also noticed the shifting is hard sometimes when driving about 50 to 60 mph. It is a smooth riding truck but im afraid there is a lot of little problems with theses trucks. I did take it to the dealer for the radio and lights and they did fix it no more problems there.
Farm Boy…We too have an 08 Tundra 5.7…we are and have been noticing the same Hard shifting along with a rattling noise, and now the stereo acting up! We love ourtruck but we have had issues along the way with this truck…they already replaced the torque converter. Any how it makes us nervous as we have over 56K and the warranty is running out…However we have been raising these issues all along with Toyota and they keep shrugging it off as nothing and like we are CRAZY! Like I said We LOVE our tundra…But we are EXTREMELY dissapointead in the problems we feel are NOT normal and fear that we will get STUCK with COSTLY repairs once the warranty expires. I feel that TOYOTA is doing this on purpose so that THEY don’t have to pay for the repairs…Afterall they have NOT been Forthcoming with issues with these trucks and their other vechicles. It is amazing how their New Vechilces are being sold with LONGER warranties! I do feel that the 07 and 08 trucks have NEW DESIGN FLaws and bugs that are worked out of the 09 & 10 models…but Don’t feel it is Fair Or ethical practice to leave those with the 07 & 08 Tundras Left holding the bag and stuck with COSTLY repairs…Trust me I will rethink buying another TOYOTA because I don’t feel that TOYOTA has treated these issues and ignored them…so WHY should we stay Loyal customers when I feel we got the raw end of the deal?
Good luck with your Tundra there Farm Boy 🙂
Lisa not all 07’s are having issues. I’m at 85,500 miles on my 07 CM. As for new design flaws I’ll say it again it’s a myth. If it wasn’t a myth the manufacturer’s will never sell a new model year. Take your truck in when the issue is happening that way you can show your service adviser. Also keep all your receipts when you take it in stating on the work order what you state is happening. This will be your record if they keep denying these issues are happening and just so happens when you’re out of your warranty. You will have proof that you took it in several times and it didn’t get fix. It makes a good case against the dealership also if taken to court.
I have a 2007 Tundra and purchased it new. Along with, I decided to purchase the “Gold” extended warrenty. Thus far the truck blew out a shock absorber which was not covered under the “bumper to bumber” warrenty. Now my radio is sporadic; does not turn on at times and other times it is on, then cannot turn it off. The display does not work and the scroll funtions do not work. Again not cvered by my $2,500 paid, “bumper to bumper” warrenty. Oh…they will however cover the antenea if it went out. Plan to sell this heap of junk and buy American again. Tired of being ripped off by these car companies.
Gold Protection: Provides extended service coverage for most major components. Coverage terms range from 3 years/50,000 tota vehicle miles to 8 years/125,000 total vehicle miles.
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Platinum Protection: Our highest level of extended service coverage for virtually every component group in your vehicle. Coverage terms range from 3 years/50,000 total vehicle miles to 8 years/125,000 total vehicle miles.
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Did you read your warrenty before you bought it? Gold isn’t bumper to bumper. Just saying maybe the truck is only half the problem?
Greg it is OBVIOUS by your statments that YOU work for Toyota!
However I am sure that This gentelman LIKE MOST of us Purchased and spent GOOD HARD EARNED money for what He and We thought was NOT ONLY making a WIse choice going with a COMPANY that SUPPOSEDLY Made “Quality” Vechicles…But they STOOD Behind their Products!
However He like MANY of us have found that the ONCE Reputable Quality Producing Company of “TOYOTA” has been Nothing of the such these Past Few Years!
I Like him…Will NOT go TOYOTA nor will I RECCOMEND them to ANYONE ever again! I Have said it before and I will say it AGAIN…” I feel that I was a LOYAL return Customer that has been Left to Hold the Bag and Deal with the Fallout of a Vehicle that has been Less THan Quality and Less than what We paid for it!”
SO despite the regular or extended Warranties…this poor man has had even MORE INSULT to injury!
Sincerfely Dissapointed in my TUNDRA
Lisa Dees
And I guess “major” in Toyota’s book is the antennae then too becuase that’s is what they said they covered under the warrenty but not the radio. I paid for a five year 100,000 mile warrenty. Nope did not read the entire booklet as I should have, but most people don’t; trusted the Totota “professional” who said it was a bumper to bumper warranty. Would not have paid extra for just engine or transmission coverage. I can change my own brakes, starters, and I do expect a lot from a car manufacturer for the price we pay; then to buy additional warranty coverage which won’t replace most items. Just major items…like my antennae. WOW!
Dear Lisa and Rod, I don’t work for Toyota! I just try to use common sense. So he didn’t read the warrenty stipulations before buying it but wants to complain, kick your self in the ass. You did It to your self, now you know its a dog eat dog world. As for the quailty and standing behind their products, I dont know what to tell you. Apperently that was your opinion of them not mine! So if anything this should teach individuals that maybe they want to read and research what they are buying. Life’s only as rough as you make it!
Rob – No warranty I’ve ever heard of covers a shock absorber, and a lot of them don’t cover the radio either unless the radio’s failure leads to another issue. As Greg wisely (if perhaps not diplomatically) points out, it is your responsibility to know what your warranty covers. The platinum warranty would have covered the OEM radio, but it wouldn’t have done anything about the shock.
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More to the point, why don’t you get an after-market stereo? They’re less expensive and higher quality.
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Lisa – If Greg works for Toyota, he’s very disgruntled. I don’t know for sure, but I believe that Greg is an independent observer with no interest in protecting Toyota. Greg and I have argued about Toyota quality, in fact, so I think you’re incorrect. As for your problems with Toyota, I empathize. Their total lack of transparency is frustrating. I hope that it begins to change.
Greg,
first off the reason I got the notion you must work for TOYOTA was the wording in this excerpt from Your post “Platinum Protection: Our highest level of extended service coverage for virtually every component group in your vehicle. Coverage terms range”
Second of all I take a BIG offense to the you implying I did NOT do my homework…as a matter of fact I spent several momths and test drives of the top 3 rated trucks Prior to making our final choice! I went with TOYOTA because of 2 reasons…their Reputation & quality!
We bought our truck with CASH money that we hard scrapped together with Blood Sweat & tears…Hoping that we made a Wise investment and were gettng a “Quality” Vechicle that would Stand up to it’s Name and Ratings!
And yes you are right it is a dog eat dog world…so I guess we all should just give up, lay down and say come and GET me Toyota…come and Kick me some more…kick me for putting my Loyalty and Trust in Your Piece of Crap!
SO again I take Great offense in Your last post!
Lisa,
I agree with you. Toyota needs to get out of the truck business. Plastic and faulty engineering. I’m counting the days until I turn in my lease in September. A salesman called the other day trying to sell or lease me a new one. HA! He won’t call back
How is this my problem or issue? I didn’t buy a warrenty without reveiwing it! (I wanna do business with that Guy) Lisa didn’t you buy a 2008? Wouldn’t it be alarming if a company had to buy back trucks just a couple years old for frame rust. How about all this talk of oil sludge. Do those ring a bell from your “homework”? I didn’t make the decision to buy a Toyota. You did. You took your hard earned money and handed it to them. I didn’t tell you to. You made your decision! Deal with it! You threw your money away if that’s what you think about your vehicle. I think no matter what, you will not be happy with any manufacture because they are making machines. Machines break, sorry to tell you but its reality. Don’t try to turn this one me! Dog eat dog world means you have to take care of your self and look out for you best interest. Meaning don’t take the salesman word that the WARRENTY covers everything, show me! Quailty is in the eye of the beholder.
Greg you are supprising me here. I don’t feel sorry about my choice in a truck. My 98 Silverado was the best truck I ever had but it was totaled from being hit from behind. My 07 CM is right there with the 98 silvy I had. Lisa you state you’re worried about after the warranty. Wouldn’t that be the same for any warranty on a any vehicle? Do you really believe all manufacturer’s will tell you everything that’s wrong with their vehicles up front? I’m sorry but I do have to laugh at the statement Greg working for Toyota. As far as quality I didn’t see it in my other trucks which I tell you wasn’t the first model year change. Issues that shouldn’t happen but did. I do believe in Toyota’s quality. Having 85,500 miles and the 4 issues I had which 3 were caused by me. I guess I have a rare truck which wasn’t made on Monday or Friday too.
I purchased my 2007 5.7 double cab in 6/07. I had lots of problems with the Seraptine belt replaced 5 times. At 54,000 miles, the District 5 Toyota Service Rep Mr. Ecchols is refusing to pay for it saying it a tension pulley which is not a warrantied item. This problem started in 12/07 when they replaced the first seraptine belt at less than 3k miles. It eats up the first lip (portion) of the belt, cuts it like a knife. I having Firestone look at it, By the way, in California you can submit a compliant via the New Automoblie Board the web site is nmvb.ca.gov a calif govt agency they will look into your compliant for free. Also, if they attempt to fix the problem four times and cannot remedy the problem. You can submit a case under the Lemon Law. YOU MUST submit before a certain miles have accumlated on your vehicle I believe 35,000 or less (check to see mileage requirements). And finally, just sue the District Rep and Service Manager, which I plan to do if this is not made good to me.
Finally, I have three more issues vibrating bed during freeway driving, right vent drivers side, does not work, short in the stereao (auxillary slot cuts off with connected to I-POD).
GOOD LUCK STAND UP FOR YOURSELFS!!!
Larry you have some legitimate gripes. The Tensioner is the problem and I’m sure Toyota knows this but hasn’t step up to the plate for it. I had my tensioner replaced when I was about 33,000 miles when I had a deer strike. They replaced my tensioner and belt. I keep the old one as a spare in case I need it. The belt has cracks in it but it’s only for a standby to get to the auto parts. I haven’t had any issues with the JBL system and the AUX port for my Ipod Nano. Lemon Law is different in all states people just need to read up on their state for how long and how many miles.
I do not currently own a truck of any make, nor have I ever personally owned a pickup. I have driven a few here and there over the years, but am now starting to do my research because I plan to purchase a full-size 4 door pickup later this year.
That was my disclaimer…
I went to Carmax today to test drive whatever they had in this department…I am looking at the Tundra Crew Max, F-150, GMC Sierra, and the Nissan Titan. All of them being the largest “4 door crew style” body styles each manufacturer makes.
They had 2 of the 4 I mentioned so I test drove those…they were a 2007 Toyota Tundra Crew Max, and a 2007 Ford F-150 Crew (or super crew…whichever is the larger cab) King Ranch edition. I am not interested in the King Ranch package, but it was the only 4 door F150 they had so I drove it.
I drove the Ford first and the Tundra second. Comparing the two, I felt the Toyota had more power when entering the interstate than the Ford. The Ford’s gas pedal was a little stiffer and made it jump a little more off the line whereas the Toyota was softer and more progressive feeling like my Maxima (neither being better imo, just differnt and needed to get used to). The biggest difference I felt was that at slower speeds especially, the Ford rode smoother. I noticed (and this is BEFORE I ever read anything on here or anywhere else about “bed bounce issues”) and even mentioned it within the first quarter mile out of the lot to the salesman that the Tundra seemed like the bed was more stiff like older trucks I had driven were. I am not comparing options because the trim packages were not on par with each other so that is not fair to compare. The Ford had leather seats while the Toyota had cloth. I felt while the seat in the Ford was comfortable, the Toyota was a little better…not sure if the leather was cause the seat to feel stiffer or not but I don’t think so. I didn’t notice the instrument cluster issues but again, I had read nothing about either truck before entering my test drives today so I wasn’t looking for them. Regardless, I had no problem seeing them and it was a sunny day. I noticed some sort of extra braking on the Toyota…it was odd, when going downhill, if I touched the brakes and let off (like a light turned green up ahead that I was preparing to slow for) the truck seemed to keep braking slightly…as soon as I noticed it and said something, the salesman in the passenger seat said he felt it too. Again, not sure if this is normal or a bad thing necessarily, just didn’t notice anything like that with the Ford. Other than that, I thought they were both nice trucks and that I couldn’t go wrong either way. I also felt as thought he Ford had more legroom in the back than the Toyota. I noticed ZERO knocking on startup on either truck, but it was 99 degrees here today (central South Carolina).
Not trying to accomplish anything by this post, just simply adding my two cents on what I felt when I drove BOTH those vehicles within minutes of each other on the exact same road and route.
I noticed earlier in these posts…maybe 2007…someone mentioning comparing ride quality between these two makes…He felt the Toyota rode much better…but when listing what Fords he owned, they were F-250’s and 350’s…that is not apples to apples… Those are 3/4 and 1-ton trucks with much stiffer suspension setups for hauling more weight…just another opinion of mine.
Again, I thought they were both nice trucks, but after test driving today…I am leaning towards the Ford of the Toyota. Now I have to go test drive the GMC Sierra..my father-in-law owns a Titan, which I have already driven but it is a little older so I will most likely jump in one of these as well so I can be as informed as I can when I am ready to buy in about 6 months.
hope this helps.
MT
MT: Great unbiased review! We always appreciate your thoughts. What you described is what a lot of unbiased people who’ve reviewed these trucks feel. But I must state, when comparing the 07 F150 Screw and 07 Tundra CMax, the Tundra actually has more rear legroom than the F150. I know you were just providing your opinion, but I thought I clarify. Oh, and please post up your reviews of the Sierra and Titan. Would love to see your thoughts on how all four trucks track up to each other. Lastly, is there a reason why you excluded the Dodge Ram from your pool of potential trucks?
Love my 2007 DC Limited Edition; although, I have one major complaint and that is the fact that I have to take it to the dealer to change trans fluid and it doesn’t have a dip stick or glass bubble to check fluid level! I also have the right vent flipping up problem that I solved with a binder clip and that is very distracting when trying to adjust while driving.
I have a 2010 Rock Warior Purchased new in Jan.Went to Rotate the tires,TRD racing 17″Alloy Wagon Wheels,hearing a snapping noise in ____both___ front wheels at low speeds,sounds like a rock is wedged in the tread,but the tires have nothing in them.i began to think mabe it has something to do with the wheel pressure sensors,i rotated them back and the noise is gone.apreciate your thoughts thanx.
I have a 2007 Tundra DC 2wd, i bought about 3 months ago. I love the truck, but here is the problem. About a month after i got it. The truck had been sitting under my garage for 4 or 5 days without driving it and i moved it out of the garage i saw a large puddle of transmition fluid. I took it into the dealer and they told me it needed the tail shaft seal and driveshaft replaced. The driveshaft is on backorder, I have been waiting 8 weeks now for this part to come in. Im not driving the truck it is still at the dealership because it is unsafe to drive (it is slinging fluid all over the converters, so fire haziord) How long does it take to get a part from Toyota ? The truck only has 40,000 miles on it, in which i haven’t put but 200 miles on it since i bought it. It just makes me have a bad felling about Toyota.
I have a 2006 tundra,173K on it, it’s been a good truck up till now. First was the master cyl. on the brake system ( on my 3rd unit)and now my wife used truck to run to store with the results of the front drivers side lower ball joint becoming seperated, lucky my wife wasn’t hurt, after a little digging I found a recall for this. The recall was last year! I wonder how long it takes for them to notify tundra owners of this serious issue, I have not been notified yet or is this my notification?????
Ray: This is the first I’ve heard of said issue, then again I don’t own a Tundra. Being you own a 2007, I’d chalk it up to a first model year anomaly. Sounds like you purchased used, so this may have been partly the reason the last owner traded/sold the truck. But also with buying used, you truly can never say how the prior owner abused or maintained the vehicle. Now 8 weeks sounds like an unacceptable time, hopefully you’ll be compensated (unlikely). But don’t let this single issue shake you about Toyota. Now if it eventually turns into multiple issue and a money pit, you may want to turn to another vehicle. Oh, and all makes have their fair share of money pits.
Brad: Wow, that recall has been out for much longer than just a year. They had issued a recall back in 2005, but issued another recall to cover 04-06 models in 2007. Are you the original owner of the truck? If not, the owner back in 2007 when the recall was issued, may have received the paperwork but never took the truck in. If you are the original owner, did you move? Did the wife think the recall notice was junk mail? A lot of different scenerios. I commonly check for recalls on my truck to ensure I’m up to date, whether I receive paperwork in the mail or not.
http://www.autoblog.com/2006/0.....ra-recall/
http://www.consumeraffairs.com.....oints.html
Ray – That’s odd. If it takes more than a few days to get a part, it’s because Toyota has run out. When they run out, they ask the manufacturer to build more…and that can take weeks, plus moving everything, etc. Are they giving you a rental, or is it not warranty work?
Brad – I’m not sure that a recall on the ball joint would make a difference…at 173k, that’s a perfectly normal repair. Same goes for the master cylinder. They last a long time, but sadly not forever. 🙂
I recently replaced my 07 Tundra wheels (basic steel) with the OEM TRD wheels, not knowing they required different lug nuts. After contacting several auto part stores with no luck of finding these mystery lug nuts, I found myself speeking with a parts rep at my local dealership. Be ready for $11.63 a peice ( $232.60 for 20). Thank god for e-bay $41.00 for 20.
the snapping noise that u hear is the wieghts on the rim they put them in the middle of the rim and it hits the brake caliper i had the same problem also knocks the wieghts of so cause the front wheels to shake i moved the wheel to the back and had the same problem
I own a 2007 toyota tundra. I have heard all kinds of reviews from people. Even the pedal problem. I still love my truck. I could have traded in for another but I decided to keep it. I do not regret buying my tundra. It is an excellent truck.
I have a 07 Tundra with white paint. I have numerous “pencil point” size rust spots on my truck. Anyone else have this problem?
I am leasing a 2007 Tundra, every once in a while the stereo control system will go haywire and shut off and spit out cd’s, other than that it’s been a great truck until recently. The other day my truck shut off on me when i took it off of cruise control on the interstate, it took me an hour and a half to restart it, it is hard to restart my truck if i run it for more than 30 minutes, and when i took it to the dealership they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it, and charged me $105. After arguing with them they told me that the only way that they would be able to help me is if i payed another $105 for another hour of service or they said i could wait until i break down and can’t restart my truck at all, then, they said, i could get it towed in and they would charge me the $105 fee and be able to figure out the problem. That’s just not good business!
Chris: This sounds like a typical service dept, not limited to a Toyota service dept. Maybe you should try another dealer if possible. Might get charged another hour service fee though, and can’t guarantee they’d identify the problem. So I take it no DTC’s were tripped when this occured? Or did you erase them prior to taking it to the dealer?
John – I’ve been told that those spots are brake dust. Will they polish off with some Meguiars cleaner wax?
Chris – They have a right to charge you to diagnose the vehicle, and unfortunately they can’t guarantee they’ll find the problem. Still, it sounds like they didn’t do a good job of informing you of that BEFORE you paid them.
My highly unreliable “internet” diagnosis is a cam position sensor. Those damn things are notorious for intermittent failures and they will leave you stranded.
I have a 2007 Tundra Crewmax and have had 3 radios that has gone out and has been replaced, lost my cds that were stuck inside also . All three were turning on and off whenever they wanted to, sometimes if I hit a bump in the road. Since the last one was replaced my truck warranty has expired and they wont replace it for free. If this is due to a short in the unit shouldn’t this be a recall item?
Dee – The stereo is notorious for problems. The good news is, a very nice after-market head unit is available for less than half the cost of a less powerful factory unit.
I have just made my last lease payment and am considering buying my 07 Tundra even though it has had a few problems. I just have to remember back to the Silverados I owned to realize how good the Tunr=dra is. But, I too have a CD changer problem. The Cd’s are getting stuck in the player. I can get them out but it’s a hassel. Can it be fixed, is it caused by something caught in there?
I have 2007 Tundra DC SR5 5.7L TRD dual exhaust i bought it with 1900 miles on it. This is my first new truck that i have ever owned and the only new truck i will ever be able to own and i paid cash for it. I love this truck and i will say this is one bad ass truck. I have had a couple probs with it, like my first winter with it i left a stop sign nice and easy and when my tires lost grip every light in my dash started flashing and i happened to be 2 blocks from the dealer so i took it in and they said that a wheel sensor had malfunctioned so they reset it and have had no more problems with that issue. while i was there i told them about the tapping sound in the engine and the service manager told me the truck sounds great but i still hear the noise. the paint seems very thin have lots of little chips. about 1 month ago i went out to go to the store and battery was dead so i took it to the dealer and they gave me a new battery and told me to bring it back that mon. which i did and they replaced the alternator, ok that problem solved. now toyota says to change oil every 5000k miles i change it every 2500 miles and i only use Mobile 1 sinthetic. Yesterday i went to pick up my sister in law 170 miles away and on the way there i looked at my oil pressure gauge and the needle was sitting on low so i stopped at the rest area and found that i was a quart low ad it cost me 9.00 for a quart of oil, so today i took it to the dealer and they said that 1 quart of oil for 2500 miles was in toyota’s exceptable loss range, now i think thats a crock of you know what but they said that the oil pressure gauge needs to be checked out so it goes in friday to get that fixed. My ???? is does that one qt to every 2500 mile sound right to anyone else? the truck only has 32,000 miles on it. i have just recently noticed a slight humming when i step on the gas and when i let off it stops any ideas what that could be? and also i only average 13.7 mpg and i use 10w30 if i went to what the oil cap says for oil would that stop the tapping and increase my mpg?
We have a 2007 Tundra Crewmax-5.7, never had a problem until this past Friday, my husband hooked up a trailer to load a tractor on,stopped to get gas and when he turned the truck back on all the warning lights, (VSC, 4LO, Traction warning, Check Engine light) all started flashing and won’t go off. Also you cannot see the Gear light on dash at all either. We took it to a dealership, they reset the panel, it started doing it about 10 minutes later again. It is back in the shop today to get checked out, the technician that checked it out said he had never seen this problem before…ever! It is out of warranty, any suggestions?? Other than this, we have never ever had a problem with a Toyota and this is our 4th!!!! Love the truck, would just like some insight…..Thank You!
Hi Kim;
I posted a comment on Feb-17-2010 with what appears to be the same issues. Since then I have replaced 2-air pumps and 2- air injection drivers on the ’07 Tundra that I have. The issue now seems to be corrected but it is expensive. With parts and labor I ran into roughly $5000.00. I know of several Toyotas now with the same problems,same expense. I think that one code was P2445, pump stuck open bank one. They told me that there was water in the system. They then took the intake from the air pump from it’s factory position and put it into the main air duct coming into the truck. I hope that you have better luck.
Gary and Kim – Check out this post: https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/04/26/tundra-sequoia-air-injection-induction-pump/
I was reading things here deciding what to do. I have a 2007 I bought used about 10 months ago. It had very low mileage, didn’t appear to have towed anything of consequence.
Truck rides quiet and smooth. Corners better than most luxury sedans.
I don’t buy it that this 1/2 ton truck can pull 10000 lbs, but it decidedly is strong enough to pull my 2 horse alum horse trailer. That is why I bought it.
Mine is the extended single cab SR5 2wd with the traction control.
I drove the Chevy/GM and Ford before deciding on this truck. I also have 2 sporty coupes, and power is important to me.
While a pickup truck is not a car, it is a work vehicle if it is an honest truck, Toyota has made a work truck livable for daily driving as well as work.
About 2 weeks ago, I had a “normal” driver rear end my truck. Person confused the accelerator with the brake pedal after bumping into me in stopped traffic.
I am seriously annoyed over this, but the truck is rock solid. Damage to bumper and my receiver hitch, all going to be replaced. Also buckled my tonneau, also going to be replaced. All through person’s insurance.
I just was sitting there, not able to stop it from happening, and never was there an issue I would be hurt.
I have read about tranny problems and bumpy beds. Only way to keep a truck bed from not “jumping” put some weight back there. I haven’t noticed that my standard bed is bumpy.
I an sensitive to tranny, and no issues with the tranny.
Those with complaints about ride and light back end, pick up isn’t the right vehicle for you no matter who makes it.
Truck is fast and if you don’t drive defensively you will have an issue, especially if you have the 5.7 engine. It is as quick as a sports car. If you drive it like a rice rocket boy, you will get in trouble.
Torque and power sufficient to pull a 5000 trailer with ease.
I get the same mileage towing a trailer as I do not towing. I get 17.5 mpg.
Reading the comments has made it so that I just have the other driver’s insurance fix my truck, and just go on enjoying it.
Has anyone else had problems with toe-in/out alignments on new trucks causing tires to wear out on outside edges?
I have a 2007 5.8L 4×2 DBL Cab SR5. I originally posted a complaint back in Dec of 2007 when my truck had 9000 miles on it. I let the dealership know (Ralph Hayes Toyota) at 4000 miles that the tires were feathering with raised tread on the outside edges and they did a toe adjustment and rotated the tires. I now have about 30,000 Sunday driving miles on the truck and all 4 tires (275/65/r18) are worn down to the wear bar only on the outside edges of each tire. The middle to inboard side of each tire has good tread left.
At my last service visit I showed them the tires and they said it was probably out of alignment and I’d have to pay for another alignment. Other than that..it wasn’t their problem that I would have to contact the tire manufacture….who’s warranty will not cover tires damaged by mis-alignment.
How can a tough as nails truck thats driven 10,000 miles a year and only on good roads get knocked out of alignment so easily? No way.
They had to replace the transmission and torque converter at 400 miles. I am wondering if that package replacement required the engine to be removed from the truck? If so maybe the displaced weight caused something to settle? Anybody got a clue or suggestions on my dilema?
They hate me at the dealership and treat me as if I shouldn’t be upset at all.
Correction to the date and mileage reference above:
I originally posted a complaint on this site when I had 9000 miles on the truck in DEC 2008 NOT 2007. I purchased the truck September 2007 as a Sunday driver/show. The truck is still all stock and original. Absolutely no modifications have been done.
There appear to be BIG problems with the A.I.R. system in the 07-10 Tundra. Toyota is acting strange in responding to the problem. Here are two links to the discussions on two different web sites.
http://www.toyotatundraforum.c.....lures.html
http://www.tundrasolutions.com.....ngineer-9/
What are the symptoms of the Air Induction system when it goes bad? Can running your truck thru a high-pressure car wash cause water intrusion?
$2-3000 bucks for a repair out of warranty seems like a warning flag to maybe start trading in all these 07 Tundras.
Brad: Based on my readings of Tundra Solutions and Toyota Tundra Forum, this sounds like a problem that is impacting more than just the 2007 models. We are just noticing more 2007’s since they have higher mileage. Has Toyota even determined the cause of the problem yet?
And for those who do have this replaced under warranty, or pay out of pocket, what are the chances of this happening again? Is there a design flaw in the part(s)? Has a new design been created? Is the new design being used and why the back order is so great? Or is Toyota simply using the same design, with the chances this will occur again?
I own an 08 longbed dbl cab 4×4 as well as a 2000 TRD dbl cab limited 4×4. As far as the 1st model year thing, in my case that is false. My 2000 has been beat hard all its life, even before I got it with 46k. This truck will fry the tires with 140K!! Great truck.
The 08 on the other hand does have the “bed hop” when actually it is the whole truck that is porpoising. Try leaving California on I80 heading in to Reno. This is the most pronounced I have found for my truck and agree with whoever said wheelbase and road section lengths are part of the problem but the truck shouldn’t do that. For those of you who say it doesn’t happen, you just haven’t felt it. I have been racing and wheelin for quite a few years so no young man here.
Toyota should do something IMO, thats how bad my truck shakes.
Scott and Brad – We’ve covered the air induction problems pretty well here: https://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/04/26/tundra-sequoia-air-injection-induction-pump/
If you comment on that post, you’ll get a better response.
Justin:
I have not been able to test drive the other two vehicles as of yet. Not sure why I left the dodge out of my list, just never appealed to me I guess.
I will clarify that I have since learned the Tundra I test drove as NOT the CrewMax, but a double cab. I tested it at a Carmax and the salesman told me it was the largest cab the made…figures, he didn’t know a thing about them! LOL
Still in the market, just looking for the right deal to come along. It seems no matter what you purchase, there are horror stories out there to go along with it. Just gotta take a leap at some point.
I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra, it is very nice. The problems i have is the radio, knobs will freeze up and when i hit a bump will turn off the radio. I told them this when i took it in for service when it was under warranty but they could not simulate the problem. Then it got worse. Now the warranty is over and i talked with them again and they said the do not fix radios only replace which would be 1700 dollars. This is rediculious. I quess i will have to go to a electrical shop to get it fixed.
justin you have way too much time on your hands to put in sooo many post on this site, i have just lemmoned lawed a 2005 f250 diesel – ford has stood behind there product and bought back. looking at new trucks evan considing a toyota not completely sold.
I have a 2007 4.7L Tundra with 41k miles. It has almost new Bridgestone tires with 4k miles on them. No tire vibration or shimmy since install or ever before. Yesterday while driving the Interstate into San Antonio, the truck started swerving/vibrating almost uncontrollably at 55-60 mph. The pavement was smooth and dry. I tromped the brakes and slowed it down but the effect continued and steering input seemed to have little effect on direction. Before completely stopping, I managed to run it into the concrete barrier wall a few feet to the right of the far right lane, causing damage to right front fender/bumper, tire sidewall and alloy rim. No one hit me, thank god. My wife was in the passenger seat. She thought I was swerving to miss something in the road until I told her I had no control.
The traffic was heavy and I couldn’t get out to inspect the front. After regaining composure, I tried to drive it slowly down the shoulder with emergency flashers. It handled OK at 20 mph. I took it off the freeway and into a strip mall. Turning into the parking lot, the front end felt funny again, bouncing briefly. Visually, I could see nothing, even when up on the tow truck flat bed. The shop and insurance appraiser have not looked at it yet to make a determination of the cause.
This scared the crap out of me. Was this the “bed hop” some of you have experienced? The pavement is flat and dry. I drive the same route every day. I’ve never felt anything like this before. I’m of the opinion it’s something more seriously wrong with the steering system. Any thoughts? I’ll post more info as I have it.
That is not the bed hop as you describe. I will venture to say you have an uncommon problem maybe related to the tire change 4K miles, possible human error here. Please post once you find the culprit, curious for sure.
ShookUpinTX – I suppose it could be bed-bounce related, but my guess would be that it was tire/wheel/lugnut related. The fact that you just got a new set of tires might explain what happened.
Once upon a time, I had my wheels rotated, and three days later on the highway my left rear started to wobble really badly – I had to pull over immediately. Turns out that the person who put the lug nuts on over-torqued them and destroyed one of the studs. Since the car I was driving only had 4 studs, losing one was a big deal.
When I pulled over to survey the damage, I had no idea what had gone wrong…at least until I inspected the lugs. I’m not sure if that’s what happened to you, but that seems like it would explain how your truck steered itself.
Towing-I have the 2007 toyota 5.7,double cab 4×4.I pull a 32ft 5/wheel, that weighs in a approx 10,300 pds loaded up with gear. I do not pull through mountains or steep hills, but with the added air bags I had installed on the truck,it pulls that 5/wheel like a damn. I am very careful with breaking and don’t pull over 6o mph, and most trips are approx 2 hour drive. I know I am pushing it, but all legal things aside, physically, the truck pulls great. So anyone wondering if the tundra can physically pull a 10,000 pd trailer, I speak from experience when I say yes, it can.
Abyone else!!!! I put the driver seat up the other day, for the first time in 3 years….The center consol cover came unglued and the skin came off….WTF !!!!! My stereo turns off all the time, I think Dodge built my Toyota Tundra. The little covers come off the coutesy handles, etc…etc
I have a tundra 2007 crewMax 4×4 and my problem is, At altitude my breaks start shaking really bad but once I’m at low levels they stop, so I’m never ever able to duplicate the problem at the dealer. I have checked the breaks they are good and I have balance the wheels/ tires, Any ideas what is causing all this shaking going on?
Jesse: I have had a couple of instances where I have experienced brake vibration when I have accelerated to a high speed then have to brake quickly. I first thought that I was feeling the anti-lock braking system, but on the second instance as I let off the brake and continued to let the truck slow down on its own, the vibration continued and the truck seemed to pull hard to the left. I am now thinking that its a caliper issue. I still have 3/4 thickness left on the original brakes and the dealership says my brakes are fine.
My 2007 Toyota Tundra shuts off when making a sharp left turn. Feels like the fuel sensor is bad. The truck makes a beeping sound then shuts off.
Hi, I have a 2008 tundra 4×4 D-cab Longbed 5.7 L. I have experenced the radio problem along with some problems not mentioned but dealer said there are TSBs for.
1. Front Diff. noise at low speeds. It was completely replaced a 15000
2. Rear end whine at 50 mph and higher. Started with outside wheel bearings being replaced and is now having the entire pinion/ring gear set replaced. This started at about 17000 and the truck has 27000 on it now.
Can’t complain about Toyota service, it has been flawless. That is the main reason I stick with Toyota and quit buying Domestic.
Heres a head scratcher…
07 DoubleCab 5.7 4×4 67k, come out to truck at my lunch and hit the alarm/unlock, jump in to find my heater fan running on high, keys still in hand. Put the key in ignition to start, battery dead…. Four days later, same thing.
Local toyota dealer says theyve never seen it and didnt care to much to help….
I now drive my 30000 truck around with a battery jump box!
What to do?
I hear ya on the battery issue…for the last day or two it was if our 2008 tunda was NOT wanting to start and then low and behold this am the truck would NOT start! So we had to get a jump start and headed straight to Toyota. YES the battery was Bad! We also found out that the same original Stereo that we have complained about since early on is ALSO Defective! Last week we had to replace a headlight! The Transmision is STILL having issues even though they replaced the torque converter! Not to mention the tires did NOT last 30K miles!
It is frustrating that we put our Money & Trust into a $30K dollar vechile just so that we would contine to have to soak money time and frustration with it!
We should have stuck with a 1968 longwheel base truck and spent out money & time Tricking it out! At least we would have EXPECTED the continued maintenace fees!
THANKS TOYOTA for Our Continued Disapointment, Frustration and expenses!
I have a 2007 and im only getting 11.7 miles to the gallon. I have a ticking under the hood, thinking it might be the serpentine belt because of the gas mileage im supposed to be getting 16 and im driving like a grandma… HELP!
Nathan, it sounds like we are driveing the same truck my truck has got that mileage since day one,I only have 23,000 miles on it , I looked at a 2010 and they still have not fixed their tailgate problem , O by the way ,i bought my truck with a limed slip rear only to find out when you put it in 4wheeldrive limed slip turns off ,what smart guy thought of that ,I don`t think I would spend the exter money for a toyota ,Ps needs brakes all around ,and tires , what to do ? drive it till it is payed off ,and sell it to some other toyota fool,I could go on but like my truck not worth it , $34,000 never again!!!!
Bought our Tundra 5.7 limited new in 07. Still feel spoiled driving it.
As of November 2010 here are the issues I’ve had with the truck:
*The extra skid plate is a pain in the butt and must be removed to change the oil.
*One morning the battery was mysteriously 100% dead. Still have no idea why (it seems impossible to leave anything on)… just the one time.
*I don’t like the seat belt reminder alarm.
*Gas pedal can be touchy (especially with boots on). I totally love the power, but often find myself spinning tires.
I paid 40k for this truck @ 0% interest. Almost paid off!!
It’s in position to be the most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned. The people engineered and built this vehicle did a very good job.
One thing I find to be very stupid about all full size trucks is the damn nicely painted or shiny chrome finished BUMPERS. How about wrapping the entire auto level area with a slab of rubber or something (that can take a good hit)?
Nothing against the auto-body industry …but if an F-350 needs a $1700.00 paint job because someone lets a shopping cart roll, something is amiss.
We have a 3 year old Toyota Tundra 4×4 (2007). Rust is developing and quickly spreading in our truck bed. Dealer has sent it to two body shops, and we have taken it to two body shops. Inspector from Chicago looked at it. All have stated they have never seen anything like it. All body shops said the bed needs to be replaced, and steps taken to resolve the rust on the brackets and frame beneath the bed, but Toyota wants to replace the floor of the bed only. This will not resolve the problem, because the worst rust is in the wheel well on the side of the bed. We are still pursuing a resolution to this. We have learned that the 2007 bed is assembled with several different parts and spot-welded onto two brackets which are attached to the frame. The frame is rusting underneath the bed and the two brackets are rusted. All this rust has spread to the bed. Moisture settles in the gaps between the spot welds. The rust is rapidly spreading like a cancer. More new spots have appeared around the spot welds in the past two weeks. So far, we feel we have no advocate working on our behalf with Toyota. This is a serious problem, and we want any 2007+ owners to be aware and on the lookout for rust in and under their beds. We have previously owned GMC and Chevrolet trucks and drove them for an average of 10 years each. We have NEVER experienced anything like this rust issue. This truck is only 3 years old. If anyone else has experienced this problem, we would be very interested in knowing if and how Toyota resolved the issue. Also, has the problem reoccured?
I have the air vent problem. I also have noticed my 2007 sr5 dbl cab 5.7l 4×4 eats tires especially driver’s side. I saw the post about the tires themselves being junk. I actually got a Bridgestone rep to replace 3 of the original tires at no cost to me because they were worn out at 25000 miles. Now that I have 25000 miles on the replacements they are worn out too. I don’t think I’ll be getting freebies this time. I noticed that the Michelin tires being used since 2010 model are not holding up any better. 4×4, heavy motor = tire eater.
i have 2008 tundra crewmax and i heard knocking noice everytime i stepped on the brake pedal and accelerating gas pedal. Brought to local dealer and they can’t find the problem ,but they verify the noice.sound like rolling knocking noice everytime i’m braking and accelerating.So please advise if anyone have same problem before and solved.
thanks
I have 2007 tundra and have heat/air/control problems,they don’t work.I take it back to the dealer for the sixth time for the same problem.They repalced full control panel and modified the amplifier? to work on the new system.Any input would be great,tired of driving loan cars when i need my truck
Never again. My 2007 Tundra needing new brakes and tires at 26,000 miles is DISGRACEFUL and customer care service doesn’t call back. Looking forward to getting rid of it and buying a Ford.
I am considering trading my 01 expedition for a 07 tundra. Any suggestions? All these complaints do not sound good about the tundra….please help…
I recently realized that my radio was turning itself on and off. As I had recently loaned the truck, a 2007 Double Cab with less than 30,000 miles on it, to a lady who drives too fast over rough roads. I thought something may have been jarred loose. I took it to the Toyota garage where I bought the truck and was told this was a long-standing problem with the Tundras and that as it was three months out of warranty it was now my problem. It was no doubt a problem while still under warranty, but I seldom drove the truck, and when I did I seldom listened to the radio. I would not have listened to the radio at all except for XM Radio. Toyota has not done well by me. The service manager called corporate and was pretty much told to tell me “tough s**t. As they say, I am not a happy camper.
I had to have my radio replaced. It is a common problem that the dealer should cover regardless of warranty or not. Toyota doesn’t care unfortunately about customer satisfaction! I would get a different truck!
Just wanted to say a few things about my tundra. First I love It. Things that do bother me are minor. Tow mirrors are not the same from left to right, pasenger side doesnt stick out as far as the driver side.Rotors warped with 14,000 miles on it. My fault as I did not tork the wheels when rotating my tires. Fuel tank is to small, toyota advertises a 26 gallon tank, but when refueling after the fuel light comes on it only takes 20-21 gallons. I tow a 10,000 lb 24 ft enclosed car trailer with my Ford mustang in it. Only getting about 200 miles to a tank, towing, it can be a pain in the butt stopping for fuel so often. There is engine noise when it is cold in colder temperatures. Sorry its a 2008 DC 5.7 SB 4×4. I notice when i use the 0-20 mobile one that it is not as noticable. I have read allot of the posts on hear and i feel that some have valid complaints, some are picky (OCD) like Myself, and some just don’t like imported vehicles. All i can say is this, I work for Ford, I’m a ford Guy at Heart. Im a Collision Repair Technician and I have worked on vehicles from all manufacturer’s. You can not beat the fit and finish of Toyota/lexus, Honda/acura, nissan/infinity, compared to Ford/lincoln, chevy/cadalac, Dodge/chrysler. All the manufacturer’s have there problems. But as a technician that see’s and repairs every aspect of these vehicles, from interior to engine/suspension, to how they are built and react in an accident or corrosion of body parts over time. The imports completely blow the domestics away. Although ford and cheverolet have come along way in resent years. Some complain about the tundra frame, even though the superduty has a open C channel frame in the rear. The tundra Frame is Fine. Some have bed bounce issues, I haven’t had any problems with this at all. But I do have a Undercover tonneu cover on My truck, wich may help with this problem. Someone commented about a wistle from the front of the truck on start up, thats normal for the 5.7, its supposed to do that and is usually followed buy a blow off type sound after a minute or so. Kinda like a blow off valve on a turbocharged car. I have no problem seeing my gauges all though in the sunlight it is hard to read the clock and info display in the center of the dash. I do have a whistle coming from the engine at part throttle at cruising speeds and it is annouying, it is the trottle body making the noise and needs to be cleaned. Wich i recomend taking to the dealer or Qualified tech that knows how to properly clean a electrinic throttle body and can reset the engine light that most likely will turn on when cleaning it. i have heard people complain about price. For me to buy a F-150 the way i wanted my truck (4 door,6.5 bed,4×4,big v8, tow package, rear sliding window, center console shift, and foglamps) I would have had to get the fx4 package and sticker was 38,000, with my employee “D” plan it was 34,000. My tundra with those same options, that were available as a sr5 package, sticker was 33,480, i bought the truck for 30,750 with 2,000 cash back takes it to 28,750. I could not beat It. then there is this and wich is what matters alot to me personaly. I traded in my 2004 tacoma D-cab 4×4 with 75,000 miles on it and they gave me 16,500 trade in for it. That is why I will always buy Toyota, they hold there value, are built well, run forever. In my opinion, the tundra is the best 1/2 ton pickup on the market, the f-150 second, Titan and cheverolet in third, dodge Ram although looks Badass is fourth. I personally think the tundra tows better then most GAS powered 3/4 pickups. I put a Ton of pellets in the bed and it handles it with know problem, and will still blow the tires off. How awesome is that Kinda makes me want to go out and drive it just thinking about it. I have my complaints but the pro’s defenately out way the Con’s. Oh it would be nice to have a real posi rear instead of the auto limited slip as it does work, just not the way i would like it to.
I know you posted this a while ago, but I wanted to drop a comment. Your experience as a tech gives credit to your word of backing up the Tundra product. I applaud you for not simply sticking with Ford because you work at Ford. If domestic cars want to be the best they need to hear constructive comments and make changes.
As I stated yesterday, my 2007 Double Cab ate its radio. The damned thing turns itself on and off. It was 3 or 4 months out of warranty when I took it to the dealer. The manager saied he would try to get Toyota US, or whatever it is called, to fix it for goodwill. They would not. I was not happy. Then yesterday I found this site and discovered that the radios had been a problem in 2007. Talk about frosted! I decided yesterday to call a mover and shaker at the dealership. I had dealt with him before. He was off yesterday, so I intended to call him today. But later in the day I decided to call the dealership and talk to the owner. The owner said, “Stick it.” NO, HE DID NOT!!
He said, “Nobody should be without a radio. Call me Tuesday and I will have Toyota fix it or I will fix it myself”. I believe him. He has always gone the extra mile. Dan Cava’s word is good. Toyota may be a chicken outfit, but Dan Cava is a fair man.
Recently purchased a 2007 Tundra DC SR5 4×4 5.7V8 with about 38k miles on it. I had an ’04 Tacoma TRD which I absolutely loved and hated to get rid of but needed to upgrade.
What I like:
-smooth overall and great power
-good positioning of the gear shifter
-roomy interior with sufficient leg room in the back
-has all the bells and whistles and all are functioning properly
What I dislike:
-sounds like a diesel at cold start – first oil change will consist of Amsoil Engine Flush and upgrade to Amsoil 5W-20 full synthetic (ran in my Tacoma)- hopefully that will remedy
-notice a slight vibration during 3rd and 4th gear shifting, both up and down. Nothing major but a little concern given what I have read about the torque converter issues.
Overall, I am happy with my purchase but I am going with an aftermarket warranty in the event any major issues arise.
If your Toyota NAV touch screen freezes and TOYOTA tells you that you need to spend about $2000 for a new one. Wait! In my experience, after days of troubleshooting to no avail, I finally tried this: I VERY LIGHTLY punched the touch screen aboput 3 times. Finally, the screen responded and beeped as I punched it. This seemed to “unblock” the frozen screen. It was a bit less responsive to touch at first. I had to touch a little harder than before it froze, but then it completely worked. Try this before replacing the unit.
By hitting the unit you are most likely making a connection in the display that is weak. It could be a back light lamp, or a solder connection. If it breaks again you may want to try taking it apart and look for loose wires or bad connections in the display assembly. Mass production is great but sometimes weak electrical connections are made by wave solder units.
I just purchased a toyota tundra doublecab 2008 standard in october and I seem to have a problem that no one has experienced yet. It is will the key/lock system and I don’t have any problems starting my truck, but when I try to turn it off and take out the key, my key won’t come all the way out. So I have to restart my truck and turn it off again several times until the key eventually comes out. Its not that I am not depressing the key when I try to pull it out, it just wont come out(believe me, this gets annoying after a while). So I talked to my dealership and they said that it is just that your truck is not recognizing that it is in park. They even test drove it up and down graded slopes and tried to prove their point although not that well because they put the blame on braking then turning off the vehicle which means that the vehicle doesnt settle before you turn it off so it doesn’t know its in park. However even when they just put it in park without really braking it still wouldn’t let the key out a few times.If anyone knows anything about this issue, please respond with suggestions. THanks
I tried pucnhing the touch screen 3 times as u suggested. On the third try my fist went right thru it. Its fixed for good now. lolo…:o)
Does anyone have a happy story to tell about all the warning lights flashing,and reverse light on while driving?
I have a 2007 5.7l 4×4 extra cab long bed. The truck has 75000 miles on it now. It Is a contractor truck with a ladder rack and it routinely hauls a flatbed trailer. Still on the original tires. They will make 80000 which surprised me. I only rotated them once and the wear is even all around. Engine is a bit noisy when cold, Bed bounces on the freeway, Like all trucks it rides smoother with a load but the springs are also much stronger than previous toyotas. Towing miirrors have huge blind spots for such big mirrors. Other than needing a new battery and oil changed, nothing has gone wrong with this truck. On the other hand I had a fleet of Mercedes built, Dodge sprinter vans, on which numerous things had broken by this stage of their life
Has anyone had this problem? It seems the sheet metal that wraps the outside of the bed on my 2007 SR5 4 door is showing some creases. It’s almost as if the bed is flexing. I have hauled a few loads of stone and soil but nothing exceeding the limit.
I own a 2007 5.7 limited with milage over 70k. I have not had any issues with performance or have had any of the issues described. Although the gauges are deep set I don’t consider this a problem. I bought a Toyota for it’s reliability in which it has lived up to. I have owned Toyota’s for over 20 years and I can say from experience I have never had a major problem.
have a 2007 tundra crew max 4×4. absoutely love it. I do scrap metal, and that includes (where i live) pulling it up the side of a mountain from where people have for years dumped appliances old cars… i like to brag and show ppl my dip stick how clean the oil looks with so many miles and all the tough luv this truck has seen. wanting to brag one day pulled the dip stick and it was 2 QUARTS LOW?!? like a week after that in jan 2011 the transmission had to be replaced. picked it up from the dealership new tires, front breaks, 90,000 mile service this truck has only been serviced by the dealership . first off i was glad to have my baby back, the rental kia sienna mini van wasnt very good for haulin scrap (couldnt even get me up my drive way). the dealership failed to put the skid plate back on. it was in the back of the truck, also failed to give me the bolts so i could put it back on. anyways truck drove fine smooth as could be, a week later shake in the steering wheel pulled over to find that my front driver side lug nuts were completely loose. tightend them down drove home. next morning get 5 mins from the house steering wheel shake again?!?!? tighten it again go on about my day and it hasnt done it again. but now the check engine lite come on today and the little sail boat looking lite under the Automatic transmission fluid temperature gauge is lit up. the gauge dosnt go up and the vehicle dosnt act like its over heating. could it possibly be the thermostat?
thanks
rough neck girl
I jus bought a 2007 tundra 4by4 5.7 litre crew cab short box it has 100000 miles on it. Truck is awesome jus wondering how much life will be left on this truck if well maintained. Truck has been well maintained.
Hello I have had my Tundra since June of 2007 and have not had any real issues with the truck. I have the 5.7L CrewMax 4×4 and it has 38000 miles. This morning I got in my Tundra and noticed I had left it in 4HI so as I was leaving I switched it to 2WD. When I had done this the 4HI when off but the 4LO came on as well as the engine light and the traction control lights and it was locked into 4LO and I could not get it to disengage. I attempted several things like pulling over and putting it in neutral and trying to get it to release. I shut the power off and back on to see if it would release along with anything else I could think of. None of these things worked so I took it back home. Has anyone had similar incidents of this nature? If so how do I get it to release and go back to 2WD. Thanks
Bought my 2007 Tundra TRD “Limo-cab” new and have loved it! 5.7 is GREAT, (a little diesel noise sometimes but at 64,000, still running like a champ!) No bed-bounce w/ my TRD suspension, but have talked to others w/ the regular suspension who do. My Radio HAS done the ON by itself thing, but Dealer wouldn’t replace it since it was past 36,000. I actually LIKE the deep-set gauges, and although the dash lights COULD be brighter in the daytime, I’m OK w/ it. I HAVE had the rusty bumpers replaced under warranty, and its hard gettting between 4HI and 4LO, but over all, I wouldn’t trade it for anything!
im looking at buying a 2007 toyota tundra 4×4 crewcab 5.7l…. don’t know what to think? i need a truck thats good on gas ..a good 4×4 for fishing…if anyone can help???
i have a 2007 tundra with a 5.7 it has about 68000 miles on it. while driving down the road it has died on me a couple of times, then you can stop and it starts back up with no problem. has anybody had this problem and what can you do to fix this?
Sounds like a classic fuel filter problem. This happens on all vehicles.
Has anyone had this problem with 2007 Tundra? Over the last year (four different ocassions) it would not crank. Moter will turn over but will not start. After setting for 10-15 minutes it will start and drive for weeks/ months without a problem. Then it happens again. I have tried spare key incase it might be a key sensor but did not help. I know it is going to leave me stranded before it is over. Truck has 130,000 miles some off road.
I had the same problem with the 4 wheel drive and come to find out the computers go bad, quess what now toyota dosn”t want to warranty the item because it is over the 60000 miles but i carried it to them with 53000 miles and they said they had fixed the problem. What happen to the service and standing behind there trucks.
I have been experencing a grinding noise/vibration in the steering wheel of my 2007 Toyota Tundra Limited 4WD w/TRD pkg. It started at less than 20k miles and the dealership kept telling me it was the all terain tires. At 45k it was so bad they finally checked the wheel bearings, and had to replace the left front bearings and hub. I don’t mud ride or have any sand dunes in this area, so I can only think the bearings were defective. At the same time I found a leak between the transmission and transfer case, which required new seals/o rings. I have the dieseling issue too. So I am very disappointed in my truck. It is the 4th toyota truck I have owned, but it may be the last.
07 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 4×4 83K
First of all toyota is still the best even with some serious hiccups on the Tundra. i have owned them all, and with resale value and being able to seriously run up the miles- nothing comes close.
The good:
74K on the original tires Michelin of course
75K on the front fronts
original rear breaks although getting close at 84k
looks new still
The Bad:
trany crapped out at the first 300 miles! warranty
torque converter shudders about 35 to 45 mph shifting replaced by warranty but I think its doing it again
Radio shuts on and off Am sounds like a lightning storm sometimes getting replaced tomorrow under warranty
The ugly:
Thank goodness I have the 100k warranty or I might not be as happy..
I just learned that all Toyota 4-Runners and especially Sequoia’s and more importantly Tundra’s all with Tundra V8 engines, depending on placement of the pumps feeding air into the intake manifold, depending on where they are placed within the engine compartment will not only “suck-up” air, but water and debris into the intake manifold causing complete failure of the rotor blades and damage to the valves in these V8 engines. Look for $1700-$2000 worth of repairs to take off the intake manifold and repair the rotor blades and or valves due to this problem…..
Oh the “Toyota ENVY” the Detroit 4 have 4 the Tondra! Here is some advise from a 2007 Tundra owner with 98k. Dont listen to the little4 owner who have experience towing over 7k and having tons of problems. And having people telling them for towing 7k+ they better get a 3/4 or 1 ton…..Stupid is as stupid does! I know guys that tow 12000lb 5thers with the Tundra and I tow a TT @8500k. The Tundra is fantastic in all aspects of towing these heavy loads. With 4 disc brakes @almost 14″ and a beefed up drivetrain egual to or better than any 3/4 or 1 ton. The Tundra is a dream come true. A Tundra diesel is on the way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My friends and I bought four 2007 Tundras, after they hit about 35,000 miles mine and another one would cut off just after cranking them and not restart unless it was left alone for about ten minutes. The dealership said nothing showed up on the computer so they could not diagnose the problem unless it would not start in the shop. Since this only happens about once a month that was unlikely. My friend got fed up and got rid of his while I have held on to mine because my problem seemed to go away, but on a trip a couple of weeks ago it did it again and another time this past weekend. I’m starting to loose confidence in the truck not leaving me on the side of the road. I’d have a hard time beleaving we got the only two trucks that have this problem. Any suggestions?
The only real issue I’ve have is that for the price of my Tundra, they should have beefier bumpers. Backed into a low lying pole at very low speed, barely felt the bump, but the bumper bent like it was aluminum as such resulting in damage to the body too. Very poor design and material. So looking for some good after market bumbers that match front and back. Other then feeding my 5.7 on today’s gas prices, that’s all I have to complain about.
I have to agree on the bumper. I backed into a light post and the bumper did not bend but it pushed in. I was only going about 2 mph, so I was surprised to see it pushed in the bumper. No damage to the light post.
I agree with the bumper issue. Two weeks ago I ran up on a rock while parking my 2007 SR5 at the boat ramp. Last Sunday my wife asked me what happened to the bumper. I had never looked assuming that it would have a scratch or small dimple. The underside of the front driver side looked like it had been hit with a sledge hammer!
My 2007 Tundra has had transmission problems (drops out of gear but the dealer can’t find anything) and now the sunroof gears are “worn out” on a vehicle with 47K miles. What a POS. Well, Toyota just lost out on a Sequoia sale. I didn’t want to buy a GM to replace my wife’s suburban but clearly the Toyota bar at Toyota has plummeted.
I have a 2007 Tundra and the engine light came on after a long road trip. I had the diagnostics done at the Toyota dealership and they told me that the air injection system was affected and they had to go in and check it out. Estimate to correct the problem was $1000. Anybody have any problems like this? I am debating what to do. I love my truck and have not had any major problems like this. I have 100,000 miles on it now.
after 3 trips to the dealer (joe meyers houston)for the gauges not working and all warning lights on.with in 36,000 miles they finally managed to fix the troble.then at 61,000 miles 1000 miles past the warrenty the truck developed another problem (air injection pump) a 2600 dollar problem .does anyone want to buy a truck . or mabe ill trade in on a chevy . what a fool i was to think toyota was good.the clock does not work either the dealer could not fix it.
Charles: Sorry to hear the bad news buddy. These all sound like issues I’ve seen before with the Gen II Tundra. Good luck with the truck, and hope you get all the kinks worked out. But just so you know, I don’t own a Tundra (own a domestic), but will admit, every manufacturer has their own issues. So by switching brands, you’d most likely be trading one particular issue for another. Could be better, could be worse.
2007 Tundra, Alarm system working intermittently. The horn and lights no longer flash when remote is used. I can hear the locks clicking, but sometimes doors are still locked, and horn trumpets when ignition is turned on. I’ve opened and closed all doors, disengaged, and engaged parking brake, and shut engine on and off, but it has not changed this new behavior. Hope someone can help, thank you, Robert
I have 2003 Tundra with 65K, which I was very happy until 2007 when my husband noticed excessive corossion, when I call Toyota with this observation my claim was dismissed. Now, we had fram changed, but 3 days after we got vehicle back from service, my husband noticed leak from rear diferential which is completly rusted. I spoke to Chevy and Ford’s dealers questioning realibility of this part, they told me that diferential should last a live time of the truck. We use this truck mostly in summer to haul small pop-up camper. This vehicle was well taken care of and is corroded more then any vehicle we own now and in past including 16 years old toyota truck we owned. It is upseting, it cost me so much money and I feel strongly this is faul of toyota using low quality metal causing this problem and the road condition. Does anyone else has similair problem?
Hello to all in ‘TOY’ land. I been reading alot of comments here and am torn. I have only bought one toyota in my life and loved it, however it was more than 20 years ago. It is still running, but someone else owns it now. My question here is this, I’m due for a newer vehicle and currently considering a 2007 Tundra CC Ltd. This baby is decked out with all the bells and whistles, and is calling me earnistly. But I honestly can’t figure why the truck is priced about 10K less than original MSRP! Seems like 32K for a 4 year old is a bit much. Especially with some of the problems mentioned here. Or am I expecting too much form my dollar?
Hankstir,
Same boat as you, in Canada, looking at an 07 tundra crewmax with 68,000KM (not miles) and am a bit worried about the engine making that noise in the cold winter months as well as the vibration. Also the asking price for the one I’m looking at is 29,000, TRD SR5. There is another one with the nav package and leather but don’t want to be replacing the nav screen down the road. Any thoughts anyone about the cold winter months up here and the tundras? I would hate to go back to ford F-150! Nothing wrong with them, just dont like there styling!
Has anyone had a slip sensor problem going around corners on dry ground?? Sometimes it will and sometimes it won’t..I
I wonder if anyone can help me. I took my 2007 4×4 crewmax non TRD out for some ivan stewart driving in my pasture just doing a figure 8 track where I was going through one smooth ditch and getting maybe a couple of inches of air. I was definetly pitching it sideway in the corners. Now after doing this I noticed that the front of the truck rides extremly rough. When I hit a epasion joint or pothole the truck shakes hard and also some times at highway speed the steering wheel shake. I am thinking either I bent a wheel, ruined a strut or bent something or cracked some thing on the suspension. I did not get a chance to really check either of these before I left for work ( 1 month in Africa). I did however get a great deal on a TRD complete suspension package from a 2010 crewmax with under 5k miles. for 136 shipped off of ebay. Any thoughts on what it might be? I will try the shocks first and maybe the springs later. Also has anyone put TRD bilisteins on a non trd before. any thoughts on that I idea? Thanks for any and all help. I would have thought that the tundra was tough enough for what I was doing. Also I have the same brake problems with the rotors warping as everyone else.
anyone have problems with the a/c just stopping not working at all no signs of a problem. fuses are all good and cant get any cool air with or wothout the a/c knob turned on.
should have bought a FORD
Bought my 07 RC 5.7 2WD after Turkey Day in 07.
Issues so far (and remedies):
Tailgate failed to open one cold winter day. An ‘L’ shaped plastic clip on the passenger side connecting rods broke. Toyota Dealer said they’d have to order a replacement assembly and it would take a week or two. I declined, went to the auto parts store with broken plastic piece in hand, and found a box of window linkage pieces for a Corvette for $2.50. Replaced and no further problems.
I haul a 7600+ lb tandem axle cargo trailer daily. I was getting alot of squat and roll out of my stock tires. Passenger tires, not LT’s from the factory. Upgraded the tires to Nitto’s TerraGrapplers and no further issues.
On the same subject of hauling the trailer, I had issues with hitting my bumpstops in the rear. Insufficient leaf springs? Too much tongue weight on the trailer? Who knows. I went and installed a set of Firestone airbags between the rear axle and frame…No further issues.
Two years into owning and hauling (30k miles), the tranny light came on. Pulling on mostly flat roads and 75F outside temp. Dealer put it on the computer and informed my the tranny was 3 quarts low, put it on the lift and could find no leaks, and concluded it came from the factory low.
No bed or tranny vibration issues. No electrical issues. No issues with gauge brightness. Out of warranty now, but I am not worried. I keep to the maint. schedule and use high quality stuff when it needs something.
Had I known of the issues I went through with this truck, and the potential issues others have had with their trucks, I would not have been deterred from buying a Tundra. Not any one auto manufacturer is perfect. There will always be parts that aren’t up to snuff.
I am about at the 4 year mark and have 65000 miles+. No leaks. No odd sounds or smells. Still driving straight. No odd vibrations.
Keeping this truck and waiting for Toyota to build a diesel-powered Tundra.
This is my second post regarding my ’07 Tundra. My first post was regarding the “dieseling” noise and several concerns with the transmission. When the trans was cold, it would not shift from 5th gear to 6th and it would vibrate (rumble) at around 2k RPM. When it would warm up, it would shift with no issues and the vibration would go away. I took the truck to the local dealer and they couldn’t recreate the symptoms I described and said there was nothing wrong. The issue seemed to “vanish” over the summer months.
Now that the temps are colder, the transmission is starting to have the same issues. I knew in the back of my mind the dealer would try to recreate the problem and would somehow find nothing. So, I took the truck to an independent mechanic and he drove the truck while it was cold. He was able to recreate the issue and after eliminating several other ideas that could cause the vibration, he narrowed it down to what he believed to be a transmission problem.
Armed with this information, I called the dealer and set up an appointment to leave the truck sit overnight and have a technician drive it im the morning. I did not let them know the truck had already been looked at by another mechanic. Of course they called me and were not able to recreate the symptoms after driving the truck. My only assumption is that they never took the truck out of the parking lot and put it under a load. Needless to say, I called the service manager and explained to him what was going on. He stated they run rough when cold, blah, blah, blah. When I explained the diagnosis from the independent mechanic (which was documented), he got on the defensive. After goign back and forth, he finally agreed to drive the truck himself while I am present next week.
I love my truck and I know vehicles have issues but the lack of effort and shadiness on this dealership’s part has probably cost Toyota a loyal customer. I will provide an update next week.
Yeah I bought a 2008 Toyota tundra 5.7 liter I haven’t really had any issues with my truck. Other than one little detail, it seems like when I come to a stop light and fully stop for more than 5-10 seconds it does it. It’s seems like somebody slightly taps me from behind with the brake fully pressed. It makes me think that I’m letting go of the brake even though I’m on it. My guess is that something in the passing gear gets stuck at high gear and realeases down to low when at the stop light. First time it ever did it, since I got the truck I got off the truck thinking that the guy in back of me tap my bumper from behind. But he was a good 2-3 feet away from my truck, other than making me look like an ass there’s nothing wrong with my tundra.
I purchased my 2007 Tundra Crewmax and have only had one, what I call “major” issue. When I slow to turn a corner the transmission seems to “slip” when I complete the turn and slowly accelerate. It seems to be looking for which gear it should be in. Taken it to the dealer several times and they can’t seem to figure it out. Anyone else have this issue? Other than that we(the wife and I and our 6′ 240lb 14 yr old son and 5’10” 17yr old daughter) love the truck. We’ve used it to haul the H.S. Band trailer and use it as our travel vehicle. Enjoy the “too nice” things as well…
I have 2007 Tundra Crewmax. I have found rust spots in front and behind both wheel wells where there are spot welds that hold x-members underneath. I had dealership paint the bed once already and it is there again getting redone. The dealership never blinked and gave me loaner care and everything. Cost 0$. My only question is that this is going to be a recurring nightmare I think. The bed was painted last year and it is already needing redone. Sooner or later that area of the bed will be rotted soundly from underneath. Any 07 and newer Tundra owners need to take a look underneath their beds. They may be really surprised at what they see…….
people need to stop complaining!! If u think the Tundra is bad then try the Ford or Chevy or better yet Dodge!! Ive owned my Tundra for about 2 years and have about 50k miles and have never had an issue! best truck ive ever owned. The bed bounce isnt bad at all i dont know why ppl be tripping, look at the ford raptor with the frame breaking!
Have a 2007 Toyota Tundra with 75,000 miles on it. I haven’t towed, pulled anything or even been off road. But right before 75k on my way to work I and made a sharp left turn and all hell broke loose. I had my traction light come on along with my check engine light and the VSC light as well. The vehicle transmission would not even shift past the fourth gear, (on a 6 speed transmission). I took it to the dealer, where they kept it for an entire day. The staff informed me they were recalibrating the transmission. The following day I picked up the vehicle all seem fine. After driving about 600 miles, I made a sharp left turn and had the same problem. I did not have time to go to the dealer, so I decided to assess the problem myself. Checked all the fuses and looked for any sigh of a visible failure, but there was none. So I did the next logical thing. Since these new vehicles have a computer controlling everything I decided to reboot the computers by disconnecting the battery for about 20 seconds allowing the systems to reboot. Reconnected the battery, all warning lights were reset and my problem went away. The vehicle is now going through all six gears like it should. I am now monitoring the situation for any further faults.
i have a problem with the air is not blowing at all i just got the truck with 4 miles on it ac dosent work nothink no heat nobody know whats the problem the “fuse” are good the cables that are coming from box to inside are good they a power in them!
any ideas?
I have a 2007 SR5 and like it a lot. Only problem thus far was the vibration in the front end; happened twice and the first time a had the rotors turned, then took about 9,000 miles and started again. I replaced the rotors and brakes myself (easy to work on). Yesterday I needed new wiper blades and had a hard time locating new ones that would mount. I contacted the dealer and they said their was not much out for aftermarket in that design; costs $70.72 for a pair. On the way to buy them I stoped at a NAPA and found some for $30. which work great.
Hi Xavier;
Please have a look at posts dated Feb-17-2010, Aug-17 and 18th 2010. Sounds like the same problems. Resetting the computer is a temporary fix. Been there.
Good luck
I have an’07 Tundra Limited with 5.7L engine 4X4.
My Bluetooth has just stopped working; cannot be fixed.
Radio would have to be replaced; no thanks!
Purchased Motorola Droid Bluetooth in-car system; its
great!
had tundra problems
short story fixed problem
traded in got 2012 f150 way better truck
if you wont some thing to complain about try a dodge ram
wayne – LOL – I hear you brother. I’ve owned 2 Chrysler products and never again…never.
SO TRUE!!!!
2003 Dodge Ram 1500, Bought it at 84k, drove it to 240k in about… 3 years… had 3 front ends, axle seals, and transfer cases all done and redone multiple times. Great truck overall for the sake of camping/taking people places… but brutal mechanically.
Looking forward to buying a Tundra after reading all these comments. 🙂
I own a Dodge Dakota 2006. Based on how I have been treated by several dealers, and what I have found out from mechanics. I will NEVER purchase another Dodge – EVER. I have had issues with the vehicle since 26k miles and no one, including dealers, can figure it out. I now have 96k miles and I have spent more money on repairs for this truck than all my other vehicles I have ever owned put together. I dont care what the commercials say. I know its not a RAM, but its a Dodge none the less. NEVER AGAIN.
i take it none of you has own a dodge
wayne says:
if you wont some thing to complain about try a dodge ram
and:
i take it none of you has own a dodge
_________________________________________________________
The only thing I have to complain about is the ridiculous comment about a “dodge”.
In other words, make a statement with purpose or say nothing!
luv my 07 concerned with lower end lite clatter please advise
Has anyone had to change a rotor yet? A bunch of the dash light indicators came on afterwards. Not sure if it’s because I had to bleed the brakes. How do you reset it. I disconnected the negative cable but did not fix. Truck is running like crap also
please keep in mind people that tundras were built here in usa and by usa people…. there goes the quality of a truck… real japanese built cars with assurance, insurance and quality…. if you have something to say against take a little travel to Japan and your eyes will open VERY wide.
I just bought my first Toyota. I now have a 07 Tundra Crewmax Limited. I was a firm believer in American trucks. I had a silverado then a avalanche. The problem in american cars & now trucks. They dont hold their values. Your upside down from the min you sign until you just about payoff the truck. I see why so many people love the Tundra, the ride, acceleration, power, features etc. The whole nine! Not to mention the resale value. The Tundra is great, i love this truck. The only down fall i have experienced so far is gas mileage. My silverado & avalanche did get better gas mileage. But other than that my silverado or my avalanche couldn’t hold a candle to the Tundra. The Tundra is by far, 10X a better truck.
Will,
Glad you like it. We are big fans too.
-Tim
I live in Canada and the heater fan motor itself is junk. My old 2008 dodge had twice as much air moving through the vents as my 2007 tundra has. Have to bundle up come winter time since it hardly keeps any heat in the cab.
i have 2007 tundra 5.7 V8 limited edition and i love it my problem is i cleaned my battery cables and unhooked the battery now my navigation,radio or back-up camera wont work cant load my dvd player any answers?
Did you find a fix?? I’m having the same problem…
[…] Irondale, I grew up about 5 miles from there. This might be helpful > All Known 2007 Toyota Tundra Problems | Tundra Headquarters Blog I would check to see if the Air Induction Pump has been replaced as well, you should be able to […]
I always look online, edmunds.com, to see fair market value of a vehicle. Having just bought a 2010 5.7 v8 for $20k with 37k miles. I would think that $20k for a 2007 is high, unless it has a lot of upgrades.
20k? base model 2wd?
I just bought a 2010 Tundra 5.7 v8. I love everything about the truck except I have to agree with other posters that the paint job is very weak. I have gotten more nicks in the doors and panel than any Ford I ever owned, and Ive only had the Tundra since Sept 2012. Other than that everything is great.
Startagl,
Glad you like it! And thanks for all the comments.
-Tim
It is almost impossible to uncover knowledgeable men and girls during this topic, however you sound like do you know what you are discussing! Thanks
I have the 07 Tundra in white xsp package. I do love the truck. It does have single stage paint and is hell to keep a shine. Vent does move up a pain in the ass because I live in FL. and use ac a lot. The dash lights do suck and they could upgrade us to led? The bed bounce is not an issue at all with mine. I had bed line x’ed and it works great. I tow all the time with this truck and travel with it I love this truck even with the small stuff that could be fixed easily. I have owned every kind of truck out there and this truck hands down is my favorite. I have the 5.7 it has been bullet proof. I do not like the oil filter changes that need a special tool to do but still love this truck. The xsp came with 20’s on it BBS rim’s and did have a wobble in wheel found out it was a bad rim and dealer replaced it no questions asked. Next is the window switch recall but that to is easy fix. All trucks have problems but the one’s I have are not as big as the one’s I have had with other trucks. Keeping mine until she wont run anymore.
Happy to hear!
-Tim
I have a 2007 Tundra Crewmax LTD that is about to hit 200,000kms. I have owned this truck since new and absolutely love it. I have had ZERO issues with it and it has treated me well. I sympathize with all the other Tundra owners with their issues, but some of the comments are ridiculous. The only MINOR issue that I had was the original rotors warped at about 60,000kms. Wear and tear cost and replaced with Napa Premium rotors, no issues since than and still have them on!
Other than regular maintenience cost (oil changes, brake pads etc) I have had nothing go wrong on me yet. I plan on keeping this Truck forever so I lifted it, installed some bolt on mods (Cold air intake, exhaust etc), and put on some nice wheels and tires. I try to do all the maintenience on it that I am capaple of to save money. I beleive I will hit the million kilometer mark and will expect a new Tundra from Toyota!! lol
On a side note ever wonder why Toyota doesnt offer a Diesel Tundra in North America? They would dominate the market!!!
Only 30,000 on a bought new 07 0ff road and can honestly say it’s a great riding truck and get a lot of compliments from passengers.Only issue I’m having is growling noise from drive train.Not very audible at first notice but after another 3000 miles it seems to have worsened.Goes in tomorrow for 3rd look from dealer’s mechanics.Know there’s a problem because I’ve read other’s who concur.Hoping Toyota will confess and correct at their cost.Haven’t read of this on your forum,howcum?
Wow .. just found this Thread while looking for an issue with my 03 Tundra. Lots of harsh words out there ??
Anyways, I have an 03 Tundra with the 4.7l and today it started emiting a High Pitch Squeal while parked, with the engine off. With some digging, I found a small Valve looking Electrical device wire-tied directly behind the Battery box that doing the Squealing .. almost looks like a speaker wrapped in Foam ?? I unplugged it and the noise is gone and truck seems to run perfectly. Anybody out there know what this component is and why it is squealing, even with the truck “off” and keys out.
I have an 07 tundra 5.7 4wd w/105k miles that I bought new. I’ve never experienced the bed bounce issue. Sounds bad. Haven’t had any major issues. The dash light issue mentioned above is a bit of an issue. Especially seeing the clock when it’s sunny. The best thing about this truck is the power. It’s got a lot for sure!
I have a 2007 SR5 Tundra (5.7L)that I bought new in 2008. I have had a few problems such as radio dash lights that went out occassionally (dealer fixed no charge)and I also had the dealership replace the rear drive shaft seal under warranty. I went into the dwalership for an oilchange and was told the water pump was starting to leak. I never saw any leaking but they replaced the pump and belt for labor only ($300)since I was right at the end of the warranty period. I also had the alternator die this week. No clue it was going bad…it just stopped working. I only have 36K miles on the truck so I thought that was odd. The rebuilt alternator and battery will cost $692.00 at a local repair shop. They checked with Toyota but I am past the warranty now. Other than those issues the truck is awesome. It has been one of the few trucks I have owned that I actually look forward to driving.
Mike,
That seems like an odd collection of issues and fortunately nothing major. Good luck in the future, the Tundra should hold up just fine.
-Tim
I bought my 2007 Toyota Tundra CrewMax in 07, love the truck, they put out the gas pedal recall kept my truck longer because the computer wouldn’t take the new safety code. After that was done my gas mileage got even worse. They have been telling me for 2yrs that has nothing to do with the fuel loss. You can smell the richness in the exhaust really bad in a matter of seconds, what the don’t know is I know more than they are saying. Safety code allows more fuel to enter the cylinder, if the code is set any smog or Dyno machine will read it right, they also don’t know I ran into a friend last weekend who is a certified mechanic for Toyota I haven’t seen him in a few years I moved, anyways we were talking about that safety recall, he laughed I said whats so funny he said I work there I have the same truck and I didn’t do the recall, I said why he said those trucks already don’t get great mileage, that safety code compromises your fuel!
I have my tundra 5.7 for 5 years and some pulse. has so has the warrenty finished the driver seat started to brake. today i was going on a drive for work and my seat just broke and sunk to the right. when u sit in that dame seat you are leaning to right sunk in what can i do some help me
Bilal,
Sounds like you have a broken seat. Try to find one at a junk yard or through your dealer. They are pretty simple to replace.
-Tim
2007 tundra: i think there is a short in the center panel the stereo seems to get static effect if the charger and aux are used at the same time. The radio also switches between fm/am/cd/aux by its self. Also having problems with the a/c blower turning on and off at times. CLock also loses time. Battery is still good and alternator is also in good shape.
my 2007 tundra has quit on me two times once on san Juan MT ,in Colorado. But over time it started then on 7/22/2013 it quit again tap the fuel pump and it started that was about 7000 miles apart so I think there is a connection.
My 2007 Toyota Tundra Navigation screen is blank…radio, CD works. Any suggestions? Cannot find fuse that may control the nav system.
My 2007 Tundra is our 3rd Toyota investment (including a Camery and an Avilon)but is the one I regreat investing in. $40,000.00 dollars and the paint is “washing” away. I love the truck as a whole but am both furious and imbaressed to be driving a vehicle that is not yet paid for and looks cheap. I am very vain and will be looking to trade to a Manufacturer that can match my vanity issues where my personal vehicle is a thing of pride when I drive in public.
My radio went out about a year ago and I replaced it, Well its doing it again. Is there a recall on it? Also I have had the tires balanced 3 times and I still get a shimmy between 70 and 75 MPH. What can be done about this???
I have only 23.5 K mi. and most recently have had fast idle problems at full temp. in drive. RPM is 750-800 under those conditions and the truck goes 10 MPH without depressing the accelerator. Problems started after the accelerator recall was done. Immediately the accelerator was too sensitive and it is impossible to get a smooth start. This makes the wheels spin and jerky drive. I didn’t have this problem before the recall was done. I don’t think this recall had anything to do with the reports of stuck accelerators or at least it was a band aid attempt to repair the real problem which is unknown.
That is strange and the first I have ever heard of an issue like that. Have you taken it too a dealer?
-Tim
Yes, the 07 5.7 Tundra was at our Toyota dealership today and they just called me at 4:15 to tell me that they checked another 07 5.7 that performed the same way and that they consider this to be normal. This morning the service mgr. rode with my wife and I in which we showed him our concerns and that we considered this a dangerous condition. Last week we contacted Toyota customer service and the NHTSA. Toyota told me they would send a SE field engineer to check our truck but apparently this is not going to happen. This is a white wash. I’m going back to Toyota corporate customer service. Of course SE field engineer means SE Toyota Distributors which doesn’t give me much confidence. Our service mgr. was probably directed by SE as to how he was to handle my complaint.
Any chance you have any video or can take any video? I just can’t make heads or tails of what you are saying is happening.
-Tim
At full operating temperature in drive without touching the accelerator, the truck runs at 10 to 15 MPH. At a stop light the brake pedal must be held firmly or the truck will creep forward. Also the accelerator is very sensitive after the recall to replace or repair it causing a smooth start difficult. That’s it but its a dangerous and tiring condition. There are other complaints about this condition reported to the NHTSA. Toyota needs to step forward and correct this defect in all tundra’s affected.
Sorry I haven’t responded. I’ve been thinking about this while driving my truck. My truck idles at about 5 MPH and I don’t have any acceleration issues.
Here is a thread that talks more about gas pedal issues:
http://www.tundratalk.net/foru.....p?t=283209
-Tim
I do not care if my bed bounces, im not hauling nitro, it pulls great, layout nice inside, rotors bigger than most 350/3500 trucks, gas milage not that great but its a truck, I run my toyota’s to 300,000 miles before I sale them, with little or no mantenance except oil and tires, no other manufacture has this kind of history. 68 corolla, 81 trekker, 03 camry, 04 tacoma, all sold still running at or over 300,000 07 tundra 198,000 just change alternator only problem.
I brought my Tundra in 2007 4×4 4.7L.With my problems starting in 2009 when I had problems with the wiring at the back where rocks had cracked the casing on the wiring and shorted the truck out.Had someone ask if I drove down lots of gravel roads this is a 4×4 we are talking about and it should be able to handle rough Sask.roads.2010 had the rearend burn up expensive as I had to rent a car and get hotel room for 5 days till it was fixed.2011 the high pressure power steering hose went and as this hose is patented by Toyota it is another pricey item to purchase to the tune of $570 dollars.2012 the air flow vent on engine went had repaired then the second one went and was told that the 4.7L engine has 2 of these and all other toyota vechicles have one.2013 gas milage went from about 650km.down to 200-350km. on a full tank.Major problems with the transmission.Bought a diagnostic tool code reader so I can cancel codes.New tranny from dealer over 5k and from transmission shop 4.5k and everyday is a new experience with this vechicle.I am in between a rock and hard place as it is a problem to come up with the cash to fix it as I am on a fixed income.
The 2 problems with my 07 tundra have been solved(the over sensitive jerky acceleration and the fast idle speed when at full temp. in drive causing the truck to go 10-15 MPH without touching the accelerator),but I had to order a new improved accelerator and have my Toyota dealer install it. It solved these problems immediately which started immediately after the accelerator recall was done. I was lied to for 3 yrs. by the dealer saying that my problem was normal!
I purchased an ’07 Crewmax and really like it. I have only two issues with it. 1. When accelerating after turning a corner (not going around a curve), it seems to be confused which gear it needs to be in and if I accelerate to quickly it lunges and slams us back in the seat. 2. When braking on a hill for any length of time, it seems as if it drops into neutral and rolls backwards when I let off the brake then when I press on the gas it jumps into gear extremely hard. I’ve have taken to the dealer(3 different ones) and am told they can’t duplicate it and it’s not giving any codes. Anyone else out there having the same issue? Any suggestions?
I’ve had the same problem since I bought mine in 2007. Toyota would never believe me and said they couldn’t duplicate it. I have 100000 on it and still does it.
I have a 07 dc 5.7. with some of the same issues. I think we are looking at some of the problems you get with drive by wire throttle control. Some times after breaking and wanting to take off again there is this lag then you push down more with no reaction and then the BIG hit you talk about. Mine had a recall for stuck throttle while breaking. Someone ran through the back of their garage I think. Anyway mine seems more pronounced after the fix. But I really don’t know exactly what the fix was. It also will happen turning a U and heading the other direction.
[…] heres where I saw some stuff in my search but the only thing that REALLY comes up is water pump All Known 2007 Toyota Tundra Problems | Tundra Headquarters Blog Contenderv07 is online now […]
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I started reading some of these reply’s….. what a bunch of bellyacher’s Do you really expect to purchase something and have nothing go wrong…… really…..
I have a 2007 Tundra Limited. Ordered every possible option I could….. Now it has 135,000 miles on it. At 60,000 miles an exhaust spring busted, dropped the valve into the combustion chamber thus locked it up. Toyota repaired everything no questions asked. Basically received a new top half. I have hauled heavy loads, boats, trailers without a problem. Not one oil leak, rattle or shake. I have been one to stretch a oil change… again, not one bit of engine noise. I live in Michigan, still not one spec of rust….
I added fender flares, 2 ” lift and bigger wider tires and wheels to change it up a bit. I still get complements on this truck. One fella just said “is that your truck? ….. bad ass” They are very surprised when I tell them it’s a 2007. I could sell it in less than a week if I wanted to.
All in all, great product